文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
If you have a sunny spot in the garden that tends to stay dry during the summer, a cheerful little plant called moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora) could be the perfect choice to brighten this area. A semi-succulent, creeping plant, it's named for the roselike appearance of its flowers, that come in pink, red, yellow, orange or white. A tough, easy-to-grow plant, moss rose is an annual, but it self-seeds readily and can keep an area filled with colorful flowers year after year.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Named for its edible leaves, Jamaican sorrel (Hibiscus sabdariffa var. sabdariffa) is also called red sorrel, roselle and Florida cranberry. This shrub is a short-lived perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and an annual in colder zones. Growing 5 to 7 feet tall, Jamaican sorrel's narrow, lobed leaves and stems are reddish-green, and it flowers late fall through early winter. Its flower bases, called calyces, are used for making jellies, jams, juices and wines.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus cvs.) don't just come in yellow anymore. The introduction of new cultivars offers gardeners a variety of options for color, flower shape and mature plant size, including several with purple petals. All cultivars, however, have similar growing requirements.
Sunflower Types
About 50 species of sunflowers exist in the Helianthus genus. Thirty-eight of these are perennial, but annual sunflowers are the ones most often grown in the home garden.
Sunflower colors range in hue from the traditional golds and yellows, to white, rose, red, purplish burgundy and chocolate brown. Annual sunflower varieties with dark burgundy-purple petals include "Chianti" and "Claret." The variety "Ruby Moon" offers two-tone burgundy petals with creamy white tips.
Best Locations
As their name suggests, sunflowers require full sun. Ideally, plant sunflowers in locations with six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. Sunflowers thrive in fertile, well-drained soil. Amend soils that drain poorly or lack sufficient nutrients by spreading a 2- to 3-inch layer of plant-based organic matter or a 1-inch layer of well-composted manure over the surface. Work this in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches.
Planting Sunflowers
Most sunflowers grown in a home garden are started from seed. To direct-sow outside, plant seeds 1 to 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart in the spring after the threat of frost in your area has passed and soil temperatures reach 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the planting with netting until seeds germinate if birds begin scavenging them.
You can also start sunflower seeds indoors. They don't recover well when transplanted, so start seeds in biodegradable containers you can just pop in the ground.
Ongoing Care
Feed sunflower plants sparingly. Excess fertilizer results in weak, leafy growth and few flowers. A slow-release fertilizer with a balanced N-P-K ratio, such as 14-14-14, applied once in midsummer works well. Scatter the fertilizer over the bed at a rate of 1/4 pound per 10 square feet, or as indicated on the packaging, and gently work it into the top 1 to 3 inches of soil.
Once established, sunflowers are very tolerant of drought. If you plan to harvest the edible seeds, though, watering the plants at the first sign of wilting encourages good seed development. In the absence of rain, water at least once a week to soak the soil and encourage deep root systems that keep plants from blowing over in the wind.
Sunflower Types
About 50 species of sunflowers exist in the Helianthus genus. Thirty-eight of these are perennial, but annual sunflowers are the ones most often grown in the home garden.
Sunflower colors range in hue from the traditional golds and yellows, to white, rose, red, purplish burgundy and chocolate brown. Annual sunflower varieties with dark burgundy-purple petals include "Chianti" and "Claret." The variety "Ruby Moon" offers two-tone burgundy petals with creamy white tips.
Best Locations
As their name suggests, sunflowers require full sun. Ideally, plant sunflowers in locations with six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. Sunflowers thrive in fertile, well-drained soil. Amend soils that drain poorly or lack sufficient nutrients by spreading a 2- to 3-inch layer of plant-based organic matter or a 1-inch layer of well-composted manure over the surface. Work this in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches.
Planting Sunflowers
Most sunflowers grown in a home garden are started from seed. To direct-sow outside, plant seeds 1 to 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart in the spring after the threat of frost in your area has passed and soil temperatures reach 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the planting with netting until seeds germinate if birds begin scavenging them.
You can also start sunflower seeds indoors. They don't recover well when transplanted, so start seeds in biodegradable containers you can just pop in the ground.
Ongoing Care
Feed sunflower plants sparingly. Excess fertilizer results in weak, leafy growth and few flowers. A slow-release fertilizer with a balanced N-P-K ratio, such as 14-14-14, applied once in midsummer works well. Scatter the fertilizer over the bed at a rate of 1/4 pound per 10 square feet, or as indicated on the packaging, and gently work it into the top 1 to 3 inches of soil.
Once established, sunflowers are very tolerant of drought. If you plan to harvest the edible seeds, though, watering the plants at the first sign of wilting encourages good seed development. In the absence of rain, water at least once a week to soak the soil and encourage deep root systems that keep plants from blowing over in the wind.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Syringa vulgaris (lilac or common lilac) is a species of flowering plant in the olive family Oleaceae, native to the Balkan Peninsula, where it grows on rocky hills.This species is widely cultivated as an ornamental and has been naturalized in other parts of Europe (including the United Kingdom, France, Germany, and Italy), as well as much of North America. It is not regarded as an aggressive species, found in the wild in widely scattered sites, usually in the vicinity of past or present human habitations.
Description
S. vulgaris is a large deciduous shrub or multistemmed small tree, growing to 6–7 m (20–23 ft) high, producing secondary shoots ("suckers") from the base or roots, with stem diameters up to 20 cm (8 in), which in the course of decades may produce a small clonal thicket.[7] The bark is grey to grey-brown, smooth on young stems, longitudinally furrowed, and flaking on older stems. The leaves are simple, 4–12 cm (2–5 in) and 3–8 cm broad, light green to glaucous, oval to cordate, with pinnate leaf venation, a mucronate apex, and an entire margin. They are arranged in opposite pairs or occasionally in whorls of three. The flowers have a tubular base to the corolla 6–10 mm long with an open four-lobed apex 5–8 mm across, usually lilac to mauve, occasionally white. They are arranged in dense, terminal panicles 8–18 cm (3–7 in) long. The fruit is a dry, smooth, brown capsule, 1–2 cm long, splitting in two to release the two-winged seeds.
Cultivation
The lilac is a very popular ornamental plant in gardens and parks, because of its attractive, sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many of the roses and other summer flowers come into bloom.
In late summer, lilacs can be attacked by powdery mildew, specifically Erysiphe syringae, one of the Erysiphaceae.No fall color is seen and the seed clusters have no aesthetic appeal.
Common lilac tends to flower profusely in alternate years, a habit that can be improved by deadheading the flower clusters after the color has faded and before seeds, few of which are fertile, form. At the same time, twiggy growth on shoots that have flowered more than once or twice can be cut to a strong, outward-growing side shoot.
It is widely naturalised in western and northern Europe.In a sign of its complete naturalization in North America, it has been selected as the state flower of the state of New Hampshire, because it "is symbolic of that hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State".Additional hardiness, for Canadian gardens, was bred for in a series of S. vulgaris hybrids by Isabella Preston, who introduced many of the later-blooming varieties, whose later-developing flower buds are better protected from late spring frosts; the Syringa × prestoniae hybrids range primarily in the pink and lavender shades.
Description
S. vulgaris is a large deciduous shrub or multistemmed small tree, growing to 6–7 m (20–23 ft) high, producing secondary shoots ("suckers") from the base or roots, with stem diameters up to 20 cm (8 in), which in the course of decades may produce a small clonal thicket.[7] The bark is grey to grey-brown, smooth on young stems, longitudinally furrowed, and flaking on older stems. The leaves are simple, 4–12 cm (2–5 in) and 3–8 cm broad, light green to glaucous, oval to cordate, with pinnate leaf venation, a mucronate apex, and an entire margin. They are arranged in opposite pairs or occasionally in whorls of three. The flowers have a tubular base to the corolla 6–10 mm long with an open four-lobed apex 5–8 mm across, usually lilac to mauve, occasionally white. They are arranged in dense, terminal panicles 8–18 cm (3–7 in) long. The fruit is a dry, smooth, brown capsule, 1–2 cm long, splitting in two to release the two-winged seeds.
Cultivation
The lilac is a very popular ornamental plant in gardens and parks, because of its attractive, sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many of the roses and other summer flowers come into bloom.
In late summer, lilacs can be attacked by powdery mildew, specifically Erysiphe syringae, one of the Erysiphaceae.No fall color is seen and the seed clusters have no aesthetic appeal.
Common lilac tends to flower profusely in alternate years, a habit that can be improved by deadheading the flower clusters after the color has faded and before seeds, few of which are fertile, form. At the same time, twiggy growth on shoots that have flowered more than once or twice can be cut to a strong, outward-growing side shoot.
It is widely naturalised in western and northern Europe.In a sign of its complete naturalization in North America, it has been selected as the state flower of the state of New Hampshire, because it "is symbolic of that hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State".Additional hardiness, for Canadian gardens, was bred for in a series of S. vulgaris hybrids by Isabella Preston, who introduced many of the later-blooming varieties, whose later-developing flower buds are better protected from late spring frosts; the Syringa × prestoniae hybrids range primarily in the pink and lavender shades.
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Haleyfleeanne
2017年08月13日
Echeveria subessillis variagata
This particular plant needs more sun exposure but will have to be acclimated to prevent burn
This particular plant needs more sun exposure but will have to be acclimated to prevent burn
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), also known as closet plants, are a popular choice for offices and homes. When it comes to indoor plants, peace lily plants are some of the easiest to care for. But, while peace lily plant care is easy, proper growing conditions are still important. Let’s take a look at the care of peace lilies.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Oxalis palmifrons is a fascinating and very attractive blooming perennial. Oxalis is the genus name of a plant from southern Africa that is made up of over 200 species. Oxalis palmifrons is one such species that gets its name from its leaves – tiny, symmetrical fronds radiating from the top of each stem, making it look for all the world like a tiny cluster of miniature palm trees. It also sometimes goes by the name palm leaf false shamrock plant, or simply false shamrock. But how do you go about growing Oxalis palmifrons? Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a palm leaf oxalis and palm leaf oxalis care.
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Pachira aquatica is a commonly found houseplant called a money tree. The plant is also known as Malabar chestnut or Saba nut. Money tree plants often have their slender trunks braided together and are a low maintenance option for artificially lit areas. Money tree plant care is easy and based upon just a few specific conditions. Let’s learn more about how to care for money tree houseplants.
Pachira Money Tree
Money tree plants are native from Mexico to northern South America. The trees can get up to 60 feet in their native habitats but are more commonly small, potted ornamental specimens. The plant has slim green stems topped with palmate leaves.
In its native region, money tree plants produce fruits that are oval green pods divided into five chambers inside. The seeds within the fruit swell until the pod bursts. Roasted nuts taste a bit like chestnuts and can be used ground into flour. The plants get their name because the Feng Shui practice believes it will bring luck to the owner of this fun little plant.
Growing a Money Tree Houseplant
USDA zones 10 and 11 are suitable for growing a money tree houseplant. In colder regions, you should only grow this plant indoors, as it is not considered cold hardy. The Pachira money tree is a perfect addition to the interior landscape and lends a tropical feel. If you want to have some fun, try starting your own Pachira money tree from seed or from cuttings. These plants do best when they are in full sun to partial shade. The best temperatures are 60 to 65 F. (16-18 C.). Plant the tree in peat moss with some gritty sand.
How to Care for Money Tree
These plants like a moderately humid room and deep but infrequent watering. Water the plants until the water runs from the drainage holes and then let them dry out between watering. If your home is on the dry side, you can increase the humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles. Keep the saucer filled with water and the evaporation will enhance the humidity of the area. Remember to fertilize every two weeks as part of good money tree plant care. Use a liquid plant food diluted by half. Suspend fertilizing in winter. The Pachira plant rarely needs to be pruned but as part of your annual money tree plant care, take off any damaged or dead plant material. The plant should be repotted every two years in a clean peat mixture. Try not to move the plant around a lot. Money tree plants dislike being moved and respond by dropping their leaves. Also keep them away from drafty areas. Move your Pachira money tree outside in summer to an area with dappled light, but don’t forget to move it back in before fall.
Pachira Money Tree
Money tree plants are native from Mexico to northern South America. The trees can get up to 60 feet in their native habitats but are more commonly small, potted ornamental specimens. The plant has slim green stems topped with palmate leaves.
In its native region, money tree plants produce fruits that are oval green pods divided into five chambers inside. The seeds within the fruit swell until the pod bursts. Roasted nuts taste a bit like chestnuts and can be used ground into flour. The plants get their name because the Feng Shui practice believes it will bring luck to the owner of this fun little plant.
Growing a Money Tree Houseplant
USDA zones 10 and 11 are suitable for growing a money tree houseplant. In colder regions, you should only grow this plant indoors, as it is not considered cold hardy. The Pachira money tree is a perfect addition to the interior landscape and lends a tropical feel. If you want to have some fun, try starting your own Pachira money tree from seed or from cuttings. These plants do best when they are in full sun to partial shade. The best temperatures are 60 to 65 F. (16-18 C.). Plant the tree in peat moss with some gritty sand.
How to Care for Money Tree
These plants like a moderately humid room and deep but infrequent watering. Water the plants until the water runs from the drainage holes and then let them dry out between watering. If your home is on the dry side, you can increase the humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles. Keep the saucer filled with water and the evaporation will enhance the humidity of the area. Remember to fertilize every two weeks as part of good money tree plant care. Use a liquid plant food diluted by half. Suspend fertilizing in winter. The Pachira plant rarely needs to be pruned but as part of your annual money tree plant care, take off any damaged or dead plant material. The plant should be repotted every two years in a clean peat mixture. Try not to move the plant around a lot. Money tree plants dislike being moved and respond by dropping their leaves. Also keep them away from drafty areas. Move your Pachira money tree outside in summer to an area with dappled light, but don’t forget to move it back in before fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
For unique interest in the home, look for the Fittonia nerve plant. When purchasing these plants, be aware it may also be called the mosaic plant or painted net leaf. Growing nerve plants is easy and so is nerve plant care.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It’s not only attractive and easy to grow, but the miracle plant produces a very interesting berry that upon eating makes things taste sweeter. Learning more about growing miracle berries can make it easier for you to experience this unusual phenomenon for yourself. Keep reading to learn about caring for a miracle fruit plant.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Usually, when people ask about growing bamboo indoors, what they are really asking about is lucky bamboo care. Lucky bamboo is not a bamboo at all, but rather a type of Dracaena. Regardless of the mistaken identity, the proper care of a lucky bamboo plant (Dracaena sanderiana) is important to the long term health of indoor bamboo. Keep reading to learn a little about the care of a lucky bamboo plant.
Lucky Bamboo Indoor Plant Care
Often, you will see people growing lucky bamboo indoors in their offices or low light parts of their homes. This is because lucky bamboo needs very little light. It grows best in low, indirect light. That being said, when you grow lucky bamboo inside, it does need some light. It will not grow well in near darkness.
Most people growing lucky bamboo indoors will also have their lucky bamboo growing in water. If your lucky bamboo is growing in water, make sure to change the water every two to four weeks.
The lucky bamboo plant will need at least 1 to 3 inches of water before it has grown roots. Once it has grown roots, you will need to make sure that the roots are covered by the water. As your lucky bamboo grows, you can increase the amount of water it grows in. The higher up the stalk the water goes, the higher up the stalk the roots will grow. The more roots the lucky bamboo has, the more lush the top foliage will grow. In addition, try adding a small drop of liquid fertilizer when changing the water to help the lucky bamboo grow.
In addition, try adding a small drop of liquid fertilizer when changing the water to help the lucky bamboo grow. When you grow lucky bamboo inside, you can also choose to transplant it into soil. Make sure that the container you will be growing the lucky bamboo in has good drainage. Water the plant frequently, but do not allow it to become waterlogged. Growing lucky bamboo indoors is easy with just a little lucky bamboo care. You can grow lucky bamboo inside and help get your Feng Shui a boost in your home or office.
Lucky Bamboo Indoor Plant Care
Often, you will see people growing lucky bamboo indoors in their offices or low light parts of their homes. This is because lucky bamboo needs very little light. It grows best in low, indirect light. That being said, when you grow lucky bamboo inside, it does need some light. It will not grow well in near darkness.
Most people growing lucky bamboo indoors will also have their lucky bamboo growing in water. If your lucky bamboo is growing in water, make sure to change the water every two to four weeks.
The lucky bamboo plant will need at least 1 to 3 inches of water before it has grown roots. Once it has grown roots, you will need to make sure that the roots are covered by the water. As your lucky bamboo grows, you can increase the amount of water it grows in. The higher up the stalk the water goes, the higher up the stalk the roots will grow. The more roots the lucky bamboo has, the more lush the top foliage will grow. In addition, try adding a small drop of liquid fertilizer when changing the water to help the lucky bamboo grow.
In addition, try adding a small drop of liquid fertilizer when changing the water to help the lucky bamboo grow. When you grow lucky bamboo inside, you can also choose to transplant it into soil. Make sure that the container you will be growing the lucky bamboo in has good drainage. Water the plant frequently, but do not allow it to become waterlogged. Growing lucky bamboo indoors is easy with just a little lucky bamboo care. You can grow lucky bamboo inside and help get your Feng Shui a boost in your home or office.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The indoor panda plant is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Kalanchoe panda plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the décor. Keep reading to answer the question of what is Kalanchoe tormentosa and how to grow a panda plant indoors.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
By the time the leaves change and the first storms of winter approach, the intrepid gardener is itching for some living green thing to nurture and bring color to the home. Flaming katy kalanchoe is an ideal plant to chase away the winter doldrums. In most zones the plant is used as an interior plant, but growing flaming katy outdoors is possible in the warmer climates. The shiny green, scalloped leaves and brilliant flowers enliven any situation and care for flaming katy is a breeze. Discover how to grow flaming katy plants and charge up your interior with some vibrant tones and unique foliage.
Information on Flaming Katy Kalanchoe
Flaming katy is grouped with the succulent variety of plants. This lovely specimen if often found in the gift floral section of your local supermarket or big box nursery, but don’t let its availability fool you. Flaming katy houseplant is a spectacle to behold, especially if you are starved for color and a new plant buddy. The leaves are thick and waxy like a jade plant but have a sculpted edge. Plants get about 12 inches high and just a little smaller in width. The flowers are a real show stopper in bright colors like pink, yellow, orange and red. The plants require well drained soil and prefer drier conditions. Flaming katy houseplants that get overwatered will show their displeasure with yellowing, dropping leaves and rotten stems.
How to Grow Flaming Katy Plants
Kalanchoe is familiar as a houseplant but it is possible to grow them outside too. They need bright sun and temperatures of 65 to 70 F. (18-21 C.). The plants are native to Madagascar and do not tolerate boggy soil, cold temperatures or shade. Even a light freeze can kill the plant, but it makes an excellent patio plant in summer. Bring it inside when cold temperatures threaten and use it as a houseplant. Growing this plant from seed is not recommended. Starts are relatively cheap and thrive and grow quickly in sun to part shade. Lower light conditions promote greener foliage and the plants will still fill with blooms. Flaming katy kalanchoe needs at least six weeks of shorter days and up to 12 for more compact blooms. Use a sandy potting mix for container outdoor plants and amend garden beds with plenty of grit to ensure drainage. You rarely need to water unless you have endlessly hot, dry days. Apply water from the base of the plant to prevent water spotting and rot on the leaves. Allow the top of the soil to completely dry out before watering again.
The importance of not overwatering cannot be stressed enough. The moderate moisture needs of the plant are one of the keys to care for flaming katy. During the blooming season, fertilize monthly with a diluted flowering plant food. Remove spent flowers and pinch off any dead leaves to enhance the appearance of the plant. It is a lovely foliage plant even when not in bloom and the thick leaves store moisture. Lightly wrinkled leaves signal that it is time to water. Follow these hints on care for flaming katy and you will have a proven winner for many seasons to come.
Information on Flaming Katy Kalanchoe
Flaming katy is grouped with the succulent variety of plants. This lovely specimen if often found in the gift floral section of your local supermarket or big box nursery, but don’t let its availability fool you. Flaming katy houseplant is a spectacle to behold, especially if you are starved for color and a new plant buddy. The leaves are thick and waxy like a jade plant but have a sculpted edge. Plants get about 12 inches high and just a little smaller in width. The flowers are a real show stopper in bright colors like pink, yellow, orange and red. The plants require well drained soil and prefer drier conditions. Flaming katy houseplants that get overwatered will show their displeasure with yellowing, dropping leaves and rotten stems.
How to Grow Flaming Katy Plants
Kalanchoe is familiar as a houseplant but it is possible to grow them outside too. They need bright sun and temperatures of 65 to 70 F. (18-21 C.). The plants are native to Madagascar and do not tolerate boggy soil, cold temperatures or shade. Even a light freeze can kill the plant, but it makes an excellent patio plant in summer. Bring it inside when cold temperatures threaten and use it as a houseplant. Growing this plant from seed is not recommended. Starts are relatively cheap and thrive and grow quickly in sun to part shade. Lower light conditions promote greener foliage and the plants will still fill with blooms. Flaming katy kalanchoe needs at least six weeks of shorter days and up to 12 for more compact blooms. Use a sandy potting mix for container outdoor plants and amend garden beds with plenty of grit to ensure drainage. You rarely need to water unless you have endlessly hot, dry days. Apply water from the base of the plant to prevent water spotting and rot on the leaves. Allow the top of the soil to completely dry out before watering again.
The importance of not overwatering cannot be stressed enough. The moderate moisture needs of the plant are one of the keys to care for flaming katy. During the blooming season, fertilize monthly with a diluted flowering plant food. Remove spent flowers and pinch off any dead leaves to enhance the appearance of the plant. It is a lovely foliage plant even when not in bloom and the thick leaves store moisture. Lightly wrinkled leaves signal that it is time to water. Follow these hints on care for flaming katy and you will have a proven winner for many seasons to come.
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