文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Exotic orchids are fascinating to watch and make a fulfilling hobby for the avid collector; but, you don't have to be a collector to enjoy an orchid plant. Orchids are easy to grow, if you know the ins and outs of how to care for them. Repotting an orchid when it's outgrown it's original pot, or planting a cut orchid stem requires a little knowledge of how orchids grow.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Growing roses from cuttings is an inexpensive and easy way to grow a new rose. It is also the best way to replicate a favorite or antique rose, as the new rose will be identical to the parent plant. Increase your chances of success by taking four or five cuttings, as not all cuttings will root successfully. Take rose cuttings any time of year from stems that have just finished blooming.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The rose plant (Rosa genus) is about 35 million years old, according to the University of Illinois. Historically, roses have always been popular plants, beloved for their long blooming period, fragrance and beauty, although these things vary depending on species and cultivar. There are around 150 species of roses, with many more cultivars, making it easy for home gardeners to choose just the right rose for their gardens.
Types
There are five broad types of roses, according to the University of Illinois. Species roses are those plants that grow naturally in the wild. They are very hardy rose plants, require minimum care, and range widely in size and appearance. Old European roses are those roses that were hybridized in England before the 18th century. They were bred to be very cold hardy and thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) growing zones 3 through 5. Repeat-blooming roses were cultivated from old European roses to bloom all summer long. Along with their cold hardiness, these roses are also known for their strong, pleasing fragrance. Modern roses are the most popular roses sold. These are also called hybrid tea or grandiflora rose plants. They are known for their heavily petaled flowers and wonderful fragrance. Shrub roses are those that do not fit into any of the other categories. They are not all shrubs or upright plants. Some are also ground covers or climbers.
Appearance
Roses have canes, which can be very thick or quite slender. These are the branches from which the flowers bloom. Some are covered with thorns. The leaves of rose plants are ovate and range from medium to dark green in color. They grow in clusters of three or five. The flowers of roses can range from simple, five-petaled blooms to large, heavily ruffled beauties. Rose plants range widely in size, according to Clemson University. Some miniature roses only reach a maximum height of 8 inches, while a few species of climbing roses can climb to 50 feet. Most climbing roses do not get more than 15 feet tall, however. The popular hybrid tea rose plants, which are upright and bushy in form, average between 4 and 6 feet in height and width.
Colors and Cultivars
Roses come in all colors and hues, from a very deep red that looks almost black, to roses that have two or three colors in one flower. There are no blue roses, however. "Golden Celebration" is a bright, cheerful yellow that has a scent to match the flower. This rose smells like honey and will bloom from June to November in USDA zones 5 through 10. "Martin Frobisher" features light pink or lavender blooms, has no thorns and will bloom all summer long. This cold-hardy rose (to USDA zone 2) will reach heights of 7 feet if left unpruned. "Kiss Me" has very large (up to 24 petals) flowers that are a delicate, salmon color. They are very fragrant and grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Growing Environment
Rose plants are somewhat particular about their growing environment. Roses must have well-draining soil in order to survive, according to Clemson University. A raised bed works well, which should be in full sunlight. Roses also need plenty of air circulation and rich, organic, loamy soil.
Problems
Rose plants can suffer from insect pests and diseases. They may develop brown or black spots on the leaves, which are caused by a fungus that travels on water and can be avoided by making sure watering is done at the ground level. Aphids, which are tiny white or light green insects, love roses and may cover the stems and leaves of the plant. Insecticides might be needed to get rid of them. Rose plants may also seem to wither up or wilt. This could be caused by root rot, which develops when the soil becomes overly wet for too long. Do not over-water roses, and make sure the planting site does not collect standing water.
Types
There are five broad types of roses, according to the University of Illinois. Species roses are those plants that grow naturally in the wild. They are very hardy rose plants, require minimum care, and range widely in size and appearance. Old European roses are those roses that were hybridized in England before the 18th century. They were bred to be very cold hardy and thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) growing zones 3 through 5. Repeat-blooming roses were cultivated from old European roses to bloom all summer long. Along with their cold hardiness, these roses are also known for their strong, pleasing fragrance. Modern roses are the most popular roses sold. These are also called hybrid tea or grandiflora rose plants. They are known for their heavily petaled flowers and wonderful fragrance. Shrub roses are those that do not fit into any of the other categories. They are not all shrubs or upright plants. Some are also ground covers or climbers.
Appearance
Roses have canes, which can be very thick or quite slender. These are the branches from which the flowers bloom. Some are covered with thorns. The leaves of rose plants are ovate and range from medium to dark green in color. They grow in clusters of three or five. The flowers of roses can range from simple, five-petaled blooms to large, heavily ruffled beauties. Rose plants range widely in size, according to Clemson University. Some miniature roses only reach a maximum height of 8 inches, while a few species of climbing roses can climb to 50 feet. Most climbing roses do not get more than 15 feet tall, however. The popular hybrid tea rose plants, which are upright and bushy in form, average between 4 and 6 feet in height and width.
Colors and Cultivars
Roses come in all colors and hues, from a very deep red that looks almost black, to roses that have two or three colors in one flower. There are no blue roses, however. "Golden Celebration" is a bright, cheerful yellow that has a scent to match the flower. This rose smells like honey and will bloom from June to November in USDA zones 5 through 10. "Martin Frobisher" features light pink or lavender blooms, has no thorns and will bloom all summer long. This cold-hardy rose (to USDA zone 2) will reach heights of 7 feet if left unpruned. "Kiss Me" has very large (up to 24 petals) flowers that are a delicate, salmon color. They are very fragrant and grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Growing Environment
Rose plants are somewhat particular about their growing environment. Roses must have well-draining soil in order to survive, according to Clemson University. A raised bed works well, which should be in full sunlight. Roses also need plenty of air circulation and rich, organic, loamy soil.
Problems
Rose plants can suffer from insect pests and diseases. They may develop brown or black spots on the leaves, which are caused by a fungus that travels on water and can be avoided by making sure watering is done at the ground level. Aphids, which are tiny white or light green insects, love roses and may cover the stems and leaves of the plant. Insecticides might be needed to get rid of them. Rose plants may also seem to wither up or wilt. This could be caused by root rot, which develops when the soil becomes overly wet for too long. Do not over-water roses, and make sure the planting site does not collect standing water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
You may already be growing a dracaena plant as part of your houseplant collection; in fact, you may have several of the easy-care houseplant dracaena. If so, you have probably learned that dracaena plant care is fairly simple. Colorful strap-like foliage appears on many dracaena houseplant varieties. Many cultivars are large, tree-like plants while others are smaller. The houseplant dracaena exhibits an upright form no matter the cultivar.
Growing a Dracaena Plant
Stems of the houseplant dracaena are called canes and can be pruned at any point to keep plants under control. Dracaena houseplant varieties D. fragrans and D. deremensis have cultivars that can reach from 6 to 10 feet, so height control by pruning canes of older plants is useful when growing a dracaena plant. New foliage will sprout just below the cut in a few weeks. Propagate the removed cane for another plant. Dracaena plant care involves keeping the soil of houseplant dracaena moist, but never soggy. Drooping or yellowing leaves indicates over-watering or poor drainage. Learning how to care for a dracaena includes finding well-draining soil in which to grow your houseplant dracaena. Appropriate fertilization is also a part of how to care for a dracaena. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce fertilization to once a month during fall. When growing a dracaena plant, stop feeding during winter months, as the plant benefits from a period of dormancy.
When growing a dracaena plant, locate it in brightly filtered light, such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window. Room temperatures of 60-70 F. (15-21 C.) are best during the day, with night temperatures about 10 degrees cooler. However, the dracaena is forgiving of temperatures, as long as they are not too cold. Now that you know the basics of dracaena plant care, why not grow one of the many dracaena houseplant varieties in your home today?
Growing a Dracaena Plant
Stems of the houseplant dracaena are called canes and can be pruned at any point to keep plants under control. Dracaena houseplant varieties D. fragrans and D. deremensis have cultivars that can reach from 6 to 10 feet, so height control by pruning canes of older plants is useful when growing a dracaena plant. New foliage will sprout just below the cut in a few weeks. Propagate the removed cane for another plant. Dracaena plant care involves keeping the soil of houseplant dracaena moist, but never soggy. Drooping or yellowing leaves indicates over-watering or poor drainage. Learning how to care for a dracaena includes finding well-draining soil in which to grow your houseplant dracaena. Appropriate fertilization is also a part of how to care for a dracaena. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce fertilization to once a month during fall. When growing a dracaena plant, stop feeding during winter months, as the plant benefits from a period of dormancy.
When growing a dracaena plant, locate it in brightly filtered light, such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window. Room temperatures of 60-70 F. (15-21 C.) are best during the day, with night temperatures about 10 degrees cooler. However, the dracaena is forgiving of temperatures, as long as they are not too cold. Now that you know the basics of dracaena plant care, why not grow one of the many dracaena houseplant varieties in your home today?
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are the classic flowers of romance and elegance, and purple roses can make a remarkable statement in a bouquet or garden. This color is available in all types of rose plant cultivars (cultivated varieties), including hybrid tea, floribunda and climbing. Fragrance, shape and purple shade all vary among types, and sometimes even depending on the nutrients available to the rose from the soil and fertilizer. Purple roses may also be grandiflora, miniature or hedge roses.
Shades of Purple
Purple roses, regardless of type, divide into three main categories by shade: lavender, mauve and purple. Lavender roses are the palest shade, with more blue than red defining the purple color, although they can sometimes appear pinkish in photos. Mauve has more red than blue in the purple, sometimes resembling a burgundy color, but still truly purple. Finally, true purple roses are a perfect combination of red and blue, creating an eye-catching, deep purple color.
Purple Hybrid Tea Roses
Rose enthusiasts developed hybrid tea varieties by cross-breeding two kinds of roses. These roses grow tall on straight stems, usually with a single blossom per stem. They are ideal as cut flowers or specimen plants. Varieties of purple tea roses include Silver Star, Blue Moon, Blue Nile, Blue River, Stainless Steel and Neptune.
Purple Floribunda and Grandiflora Roses
Floribunda roses tend to be shrubby, with a profusion of blossoms on every stem, sometimes tending to grow in clusters. They are a modern rose developed by cross-breeding two other rose types. Purple floribunda varieties include Cotillion, Burgundy Iceberg and Enchanted Evening.
Grandifloras are rose bushes similar in form to floribundas, but tend to be larger, with their flowers taking more of a hybrid-tea-rose shape. Melody Parfumee and Sweetness are both grandiflora cultivars.
Purple Climbing Roses
Any variety of rose, including floribunda and hybrid tea, can develop a climbing form. The canes of climbing roses are longer and more flexible than those of bush forms and can reach heights of 8 feet or more, although shorter ones are also available. Night Owl is a purple climbing rose.
Purple Miniature Roses
Measuring 6 to 36 inches in height, miniature roses are often sold as houseplants, although they descend from outdoor shrubs. Most modern miniature roses are repeat bloomers, rather than the single bloomers they once were. Demitasse, Sweet Chariot and Blue Peter are three varieties of modern miniature roses.
Shrub and Purple Hedge Roses
A shrub rose is simply a type of rose that takes on a shrub form, while hedge roses are roses--usually a shrub rose type--used to form a hedge or border. Lavender Dream, Lavender Lassie, Blue Boy and Outta the Blue are purple shrub roses, and Fragrant Lavender Simplicity® is a purple hedge rose.
Shades of Purple
Purple roses, regardless of type, divide into three main categories by shade: lavender, mauve and purple. Lavender roses are the palest shade, with more blue than red defining the purple color, although they can sometimes appear pinkish in photos. Mauve has more red than blue in the purple, sometimes resembling a burgundy color, but still truly purple. Finally, true purple roses are a perfect combination of red and blue, creating an eye-catching, deep purple color.
Purple Hybrid Tea Roses
Rose enthusiasts developed hybrid tea varieties by cross-breeding two kinds of roses. These roses grow tall on straight stems, usually with a single blossom per stem. They are ideal as cut flowers or specimen plants. Varieties of purple tea roses include Silver Star, Blue Moon, Blue Nile, Blue River, Stainless Steel and Neptune.
Purple Floribunda and Grandiflora Roses
Floribunda roses tend to be shrubby, with a profusion of blossoms on every stem, sometimes tending to grow in clusters. They are a modern rose developed by cross-breeding two other rose types. Purple floribunda varieties include Cotillion, Burgundy Iceberg and Enchanted Evening.
Grandifloras are rose bushes similar in form to floribundas, but tend to be larger, with their flowers taking more of a hybrid-tea-rose shape. Melody Parfumee and Sweetness are both grandiflora cultivars.
Purple Climbing Roses
Any variety of rose, including floribunda and hybrid tea, can develop a climbing form. The canes of climbing roses are longer and more flexible than those of bush forms and can reach heights of 8 feet or more, although shorter ones are also available. Night Owl is a purple climbing rose.
Purple Miniature Roses
Measuring 6 to 36 inches in height, miniature roses are often sold as houseplants, although they descend from outdoor shrubs. Most modern miniature roses are repeat bloomers, rather than the single bloomers they once were. Demitasse, Sweet Chariot and Blue Peter are three varieties of modern miniature roses.
Shrub and Purple Hedge Roses
A shrub rose is simply a type of rose that takes on a shrub form, while hedge roses are roses--usually a shrub rose type--used to form a hedge or border. Lavender Dream, Lavender Lassie, Blue Boy and Outta the Blue are purple shrub roses, and Fragrant Lavender Simplicity® is a purple hedge rose.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dracaena are lovely tropical houseplants that can help set a calm and peaceful mood in your home. These plants are usually carefree, but a number of dracaena plant problems can weaken them so that they can’t carry out their normal life functions. This article explains what to do when you see black stems on a dracaena plant.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Taking care of a cyclamen properly is essential if you wish to keep your cyclamen plant lasting year after year. Their vibrant flowers and interesting leaves make this plant a popular houseplant and many owners ask, “How do I take care of a cyclamen plant?” Let’s look at how to take care of cyclamen plants both during and after blooming.
Basic Cyclamen Plant Care
Cyclamen care starts with the correct temperature. In nature, cyclamens grow in cool, humid environments. If the temperature of your house is over 68 F. (20 C.) during the day and 50 F. (10 C.) at night, your cyclamen will start to die slowly. Temperatures that are too high will cause the plant to begin to yellow, and the flowers will fade rapidly.
Cyclamen that are sold as houseplants are tropical and cannot tolerate temperatures below 40 F. (4 C.). Hardy cyclamen, on the other hand, which are sold in garden nurseries for outside use, are typically hardy to USDA Zone 5, but check the plant’s label to see the specific hardiness of the hardy cyclamen variety you are buying. The next essential part of taking care of a cyclamen is to make sure that it is properly watered. Cyclamen are sensitive to both over and under watering. Make sure the plant has excellent drainage with a potting medium that holds water well. Water your cyclamen plant only when the soil is dry to the touch, but do not leave the plant in this dry state so long that it shows visible signs of not being watered, such as droopy leaves and flowers.
When you water the plant, water from below the leaves so that the water doesn’t touch the stems or leaves. Water on the stems and leaves can cause them to rot. Soak the soil thoroughly and let any excess water drain away. The next part of cyclamen plant care is fertilizer. Only fertilize once every one to two months with water soluble fertilizer mixed at half strength. When cyclamen get too much fertilizer, it can affect their ability to rebloom.
Cyclamen Care After Blooming
After a cyclamen blooms, it will go into a dormant state. Going into a dormant state looks very much like the plant is dying, as the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. It isn’t dead, just sleeping. With proper cyclamen plant care, you can help it through its dormancy and it will rebloom in a few months. (Please note that hardy cyclamen planted outdoors will go through this process naturally and do not need extra care to rebloom.) When taking care of a cyclamen after blooming, allow the leaves to die and stop watering the plant once you see the signs that the leaves are dying. Place the plant in a cool, somewhat dark place. You can remove any dead foliage, if you would like. Let sit for two months.
Taking Care of a Cyclamen to Get it to Rebloom
Once a cyclamen has finished its dormant period, you can start to water it again and bring it out of storage. You may see some leaf growth, and this is okay. Make sure to completely soak the soil. You may want to set the pot in a tub of water for an hour or so, then make sure any excess water drains away. Check the cyclamen tuber and make sure that the tuber has not outgrown the pot. If the tuber seems crowded, repot the cyclamen to a larger pot. Once the leaves start to grow, resume normal cyclamen care and the plant should rebloom shortly.
Basic Cyclamen Plant Care
Cyclamen care starts with the correct temperature. In nature, cyclamens grow in cool, humid environments. If the temperature of your house is over 68 F. (20 C.) during the day and 50 F. (10 C.) at night, your cyclamen will start to die slowly. Temperatures that are too high will cause the plant to begin to yellow, and the flowers will fade rapidly.
Cyclamen that are sold as houseplants are tropical and cannot tolerate temperatures below 40 F. (4 C.). Hardy cyclamen, on the other hand, which are sold in garden nurseries for outside use, are typically hardy to USDA Zone 5, but check the plant’s label to see the specific hardiness of the hardy cyclamen variety you are buying. The next essential part of taking care of a cyclamen is to make sure that it is properly watered. Cyclamen are sensitive to both over and under watering. Make sure the plant has excellent drainage with a potting medium that holds water well. Water your cyclamen plant only when the soil is dry to the touch, but do not leave the plant in this dry state so long that it shows visible signs of not being watered, such as droopy leaves and flowers.
When you water the plant, water from below the leaves so that the water doesn’t touch the stems or leaves. Water on the stems and leaves can cause them to rot. Soak the soil thoroughly and let any excess water drain away. The next part of cyclamen plant care is fertilizer. Only fertilize once every one to two months with water soluble fertilizer mixed at half strength. When cyclamen get too much fertilizer, it can affect their ability to rebloom.
Cyclamen Care After Blooming
After a cyclamen blooms, it will go into a dormant state. Going into a dormant state looks very much like the plant is dying, as the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. It isn’t dead, just sleeping. With proper cyclamen plant care, you can help it through its dormancy and it will rebloom in a few months. (Please note that hardy cyclamen planted outdoors will go through this process naturally and do not need extra care to rebloom.) When taking care of a cyclamen after blooming, allow the leaves to die and stop watering the plant once you see the signs that the leaves are dying. Place the plant in a cool, somewhat dark place. You can remove any dead foliage, if you would like. Let sit for two months.
Taking Care of a Cyclamen to Get it to Rebloom
Once a cyclamen has finished its dormant period, you can start to water it again and bring it out of storage. You may see some leaf growth, and this is okay. Make sure to completely soak the soil. You may want to set the pot in a tub of water for an hour or so, then make sure any excess water drains away. Check the cyclamen tuber and make sure that the tuber has not outgrown the pot. If the tuber seems crowded, repot the cyclamen to a larger pot. Once the leaves start to grow, resume normal cyclamen care and the plant should rebloom shortly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen make lovely houseplants during their bloom season. Once the blossoms fade the plant enters a period of dormancy, and they can look as though they are dead. Let’s find out about cyclamen dormancy care and what to expect when your plant begins to fade.
Is My Cyclamen Dormant or Dead?
During the cyclamen dormant period, the plant may seem to be dead. First, the blossoms shrivel and drop off, and then the leaves yellow and fall. This is a normal part of a cyclamen’s life cycle, and you shouldn’t be alarmed. There are two things you can check to make sure your plant is still alive. First, look at the calendar. When it’s time for the plant to go dormant, nothing can stop the decline. If you still have doubts, you can push some of the soil aside and check the corm. It should be plump and firm. Soft, shriveled or slimy corms indicate trouble.
When Do Cyclamens Go Dormant
Cyclamen are Mediterranean plants, and they follow a typical life cycle for plants from that region. Winters are mild and summers are dry. Plants learn to survive by blooming in winter or early spring and going dormant in the summer when moisture is scarce. With proper care, dormant cyclamen plants will reemerge in the fall. While they rest, cyclamens need dry soil and dim light. Cool temperatures encourage abundant blossoms during the next cycle. Stop watering the plant when it enters its decline. If you are using a peat-based potting mixture, you should drizzle a small amount of water onto the soil now and then to keep it from drying completely. Moisture can cause the corm to rot, so use water sparingly, moistening only the surface of the soil.
Move the plant to a brighter location when it shows signs of life in the fall. Water the pot thoroughly, adding a complete liquid fertilizer for flowering plants according to the package instructions. Keep it cool to encourage flowering, with daytime temperatures no higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.).
Is My Cyclamen Dormant or Dead?
During the cyclamen dormant period, the plant may seem to be dead. First, the blossoms shrivel and drop off, and then the leaves yellow and fall. This is a normal part of a cyclamen’s life cycle, and you shouldn’t be alarmed. There are two things you can check to make sure your plant is still alive. First, look at the calendar. When it’s time for the plant to go dormant, nothing can stop the decline. If you still have doubts, you can push some of the soil aside and check the corm. It should be plump and firm. Soft, shriveled or slimy corms indicate trouble.
When Do Cyclamens Go Dormant
Cyclamen are Mediterranean plants, and they follow a typical life cycle for plants from that region. Winters are mild and summers are dry. Plants learn to survive by blooming in winter or early spring and going dormant in the summer when moisture is scarce. With proper care, dormant cyclamen plants will reemerge in the fall. While they rest, cyclamens need dry soil and dim light. Cool temperatures encourage abundant blossoms during the next cycle. Stop watering the plant when it enters its decline. If you are using a peat-based potting mixture, you should drizzle a small amount of water onto the soil now and then to keep it from drying completely. Moisture can cause the corm to rot, so use water sparingly, moistening only the surface of the soil.
Move the plant to a brighter location when it shows signs of life in the fall. Water the pot thoroughly, adding a complete liquid fertilizer for flowering plants according to the package instructions. Keep it cool to encourage flowering, with daytime temperatures no higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen is a beautiful plant, but not necessarily a cheap one. Planting one or two in the garden or home is one thing, but if you want to grow a whole swath of them, you’ll notice the price tag adding up quickly. A perfect way to get around this (and also just to get more hands-on in your garden) is growing cyclamen from seed. Planting cyclamen seeds is relatively easy, although it does take quite a while and doesn’t follow all the rules you may be used to with seed germination. Keep reading to learn more about cyclamen seed propagation and how to grow cyclamen from seed.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Are your cyclamen plant leaves turning yellow and dropping off? Are you wondering if there is any way to save your plant? Find out what to do about yellowing cyclamen leaves in this article.
Why are My Cyclamen Leaves Going Yellow?
It could be normal. Cyclamens come from Mediterranean countries, where winters are mild and summers are extremely dry. Many Mediterranean plants bloom in winter and sleep through the summer so that they don’t have to struggle to survive the dry conditions. When leaves are turning yellow on cyclamen as summer approaches, it may simply mean that the plant is preparing for summer dormancy. It’s not easy to bring a cyclamen back into bloom after a long summer nap, but if you want to try to save your plant over the summer, let the leaves remain in place until they fall off on their own. This allows the tuber to absorb nutrients from the dying leaves. Place the pot in the coolest room in the house for the summer months. Lots of sunlight helps. In the fall, repot the tuber into fresh potting soil. Bury it so that a little of the top remains above the soil. Water lightly until leaves begin to appear, and then keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Feed with a houseplant fertilizer designed for flowering plants according to the package instructions.
Check temperature and water. Warm temperatures and improper watering can also cause yellow leaves on cyclamen plants. Cyclamen plants like daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees (10 C.). The blossoms last longer when the plant is kept cool. Cyclamen likes a moderately moist soil. It should be moist to touch, but never soggy. Water around the sides of the pot or from the bottom to prevent rot. Drain for 20 minutes and then discard the excess water.
Insect pests may be to blame. Cyclamen is susceptible to the usual houseplant insects, all of which can cause some degree of yellowing. Spider mites, aphids, scale insects and mealybugs can all be treated with insecticidal soap spray. Cyclamen mites are particularly nasty insects, and you probably won’t be able to get rid of them. Discard infested plants to keep the insect from spreading to other houseplants.
Why are My Cyclamen Leaves Going Yellow?
It could be normal. Cyclamens come from Mediterranean countries, where winters are mild and summers are extremely dry. Many Mediterranean plants bloom in winter and sleep through the summer so that they don’t have to struggle to survive the dry conditions. When leaves are turning yellow on cyclamen as summer approaches, it may simply mean that the plant is preparing for summer dormancy. It’s not easy to bring a cyclamen back into bloom after a long summer nap, but if you want to try to save your plant over the summer, let the leaves remain in place until they fall off on their own. This allows the tuber to absorb nutrients from the dying leaves. Place the pot in the coolest room in the house for the summer months. Lots of sunlight helps. In the fall, repot the tuber into fresh potting soil. Bury it so that a little of the top remains above the soil. Water lightly until leaves begin to appear, and then keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Feed with a houseplant fertilizer designed for flowering plants according to the package instructions.
Check temperature and water. Warm temperatures and improper watering can also cause yellow leaves on cyclamen plants. Cyclamen plants like daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees (10 C.). The blossoms last longer when the plant is kept cool. Cyclamen likes a moderately moist soil. It should be moist to touch, but never soggy. Water around the sides of the pot or from the bottom to prevent rot. Drain for 20 minutes and then discard the excess water.
Insect pests may be to blame. Cyclamen is susceptible to the usual houseplant insects, all of which can cause some degree of yellowing. Spider mites, aphids, scale insects and mealybugs can all be treated with insecticidal soap spray. Cyclamen mites are particularly nasty insects, and you probably won’t be able to get rid of them. Discard infested plants to keep the insect from spreading to other houseplants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Many of us are familiar with cyclamen as a charming florist’s plant that brightens up the indoor environment during the gloomy winter months. What we may not realize, however, is that cyclamen, a cousin to the cheery little primrose, is actually native to the Mediterranean and surrounding areas. In the home garden, cyclamen is often grown in woodland settings, although many types of cyclamen plants thrive in Alpine meadows. The typical florist cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is only one of many cyclamen plant types. In fact, there are more than 20 species within the genus. Read on for a small sampling of cyclamen plant types and cyclamen varieties.
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose hips are the fruit developed by rose plants after bloom and they mature on the rose plant through the fall and often into winter if left in place. Most species of roses produce hips in some size and amount, but old garden, heirloom and classic shrub roses will tend to develop more of them than modern, highly bred cultivars, according to the University of Illinois. Pruning rose hips can be done at several points in their development, depending entirely on your goals for plant performance and the look you like in your garden. Rose hips are edible for humans and contain high levels of vitamin C and are prized by birds and other animals as a food source.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are among the more difficult flowering bushes to grow, primarily because they are vulnerable to a wide range of plant diseases. Brown spots on rose bush leaves are among the most common problems encountered by gardeners. Those who wish to garden organically don't have the wide arsenal of chemical sprays to turn to that solve all your rose problems in one spray but may have deleterious effects on the environment. Fortunately, organic methods of getting rid of brown spots on rose leaves are available.
Step 1
Prevent brown spots before they become a problem by practicing careful watering and pruning. Brown spots on roses are nearly always the result of a fungus; hence, good moisture control is essential to keeping them at bay. Do not water the leaves of a rose bush, only the root area. Avoid allowing plants to become crowded, and don't plant roses in a high-humidity area of your garden, such as an area that receives less sun or where mold problems have occurred before. Prune rose bushes well to promote healthy growth and clean your pruning shears and any other garden implements that touch roses well, to prevent spreading mold from one plant to another.
Step 2
Inspect plants to verify that the problem is, in fact, fungal. True brown spots always are; however, brown curled edges of leaves are a sign of scorching, and small yellowish spots can be a sign of insect infestation. Observe whether the spots are evenly distributed on the leaf or whether the browning is at the edges. If it is primarily at the edges, and the leaves are curled as well as discolored, excessive sun exposure is the culprit, and moving the plant to a shadier area after the last flowering is the best option. If the spots are yellowish, rather than brown, insects may be the cause. Look for bugs on the leaves to confirm. Organic insecticidal soap is the best bet for dealing with infestations.
Step 3
Spray rose leaves with organic fungicide if a fungal problem has been established. If using baking soda instead of purchased spray, mix one part baking soda with 15 parts water, and place in a clean laundry spray bottle. Re-apply fungal spray once a week and after any rainfall. If the infestation is small, remove diseased leaves and discard them in the garbage (do not discard them outdoors, since this can lead to the fungus spreading).
Step 1
Prevent brown spots before they become a problem by practicing careful watering and pruning. Brown spots on roses are nearly always the result of a fungus; hence, good moisture control is essential to keeping them at bay. Do not water the leaves of a rose bush, only the root area. Avoid allowing plants to become crowded, and don't plant roses in a high-humidity area of your garden, such as an area that receives less sun or where mold problems have occurred before. Prune rose bushes well to promote healthy growth and clean your pruning shears and any other garden implements that touch roses well, to prevent spreading mold from one plant to another.
Step 2
Inspect plants to verify that the problem is, in fact, fungal. True brown spots always are; however, brown curled edges of leaves are a sign of scorching, and small yellowish spots can be a sign of insect infestation. Observe whether the spots are evenly distributed on the leaf or whether the browning is at the edges. If it is primarily at the edges, and the leaves are curled as well as discolored, excessive sun exposure is the culprit, and moving the plant to a shadier area after the last flowering is the best option. If the spots are yellowish, rather than brown, insects may be the cause. Look for bugs on the leaves to confirm. Organic insecticidal soap is the best bet for dealing with infestations.
Step 3
Spray rose leaves with organic fungicide if a fungal problem has been established. If using baking soda instead of purchased spray, mix one part baking soda with 15 parts water, and place in a clean laundry spray bottle. Re-apply fungal spray once a week and after any rainfall. If the infestation is small, remove diseased leaves and discard them in the garbage (do not discard them outdoors, since this can lead to the fungus spreading).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Croton plants (Codiaeum variegatum) are incredibly varied plants that are often grown as houseplants. The croton indoor plant has a reputation for being fussy, but in reality, if you know about caring for a croton houseplant properly, it can make for a resilient and hard-to-kill plant.
Croton Indoor Plant
The croton plant is often grown outdoors in tropical climates, but also make excellent houseplants. Crotons come in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. Leaves can be short, long, twisted, thin, thick and several of these combined. Colors range from green, variegated, yellow, red, orange, cream, pink and black to a combination of all these. It is safe to say that if you look hard enough, you will find a croton that matches your décor. When considering croton growing, check the variety you have purchased to determine the light needs of your specific variety. Some varieties of croton need high light while others need medium or low light. In general, the more variegated and colorful the croton plant, the more light it will need.
Tips on the Care of Croton Plants
Part of the reason that these plants have a reputation for being fussy is because they tend to make a bad first impression. Oftentimes, a person will bring home a new croton from the store and within days, the plant will have lost some and maybe all of its foliage. This leaves the new owner wondering, “How did I fail in caring for a croton houseplant?” The short answer is that you did not fail; this is normal croton behavior. Croton plants do not like to be moved, and when they are moved, they can quickly go into shock which results in leaf loss. Therefore, it’s best to avoid moving the plant as much as possible. In situations where moving the plant is unavoidable (such as when you buy one), don’t panic at the leaf loss. Simply maintain proper care and the plant will regrow its leaves within a short period of time, after which, it will prove to be a resilient houseplant.
Like many houseplants, caring for a croton involves proper watering and humidity. Because it is a tropical plant, it does benefit from high humidity, so placing it on a pebble tray or regular misting will help keep it looking its best. Croton growing in containers should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 F. (15 C.). If it is exposed to temps lower than this, the croton will lose leaves and possibly die.
Croton Indoor Plant
The croton plant is often grown outdoors in tropical climates, but also make excellent houseplants. Crotons come in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. Leaves can be short, long, twisted, thin, thick and several of these combined. Colors range from green, variegated, yellow, red, orange, cream, pink and black to a combination of all these. It is safe to say that if you look hard enough, you will find a croton that matches your décor. When considering croton growing, check the variety you have purchased to determine the light needs of your specific variety. Some varieties of croton need high light while others need medium or low light. In general, the more variegated and colorful the croton plant, the more light it will need.
Tips on the Care of Croton Plants
Part of the reason that these plants have a reputation for being fussy is because they tend to make a bad first impression. Oftentimes, a person will bring home a new croton from the store and within days, the plant will have lost some and maybe all of its foliage. This leaves the new owner wondering, “How did I fail in caring for a croton houseplant?” The short answer is that you did not fail; this is normal croton behavior. Croton plants do not like to be moved, and when they are moved, they can quickly go into shock which results in leaf loss. Therefore, it’s best to avoid moving the plant as much as possible. In situations where moving the plant is unavoidable (such as when you buy one), don’t panic at the leaf loss. Simply maintain proper care and the plant will regrow its leaves within a short period of time, after which, it will prove to be a resilient houseplant.
Like many houseplants, caring for a croton involves proper watering and humidity. Because it is a tropical plant, it does benefit from high humidity, so placing it on a pebble tray or regular misting will help keep it looking its best. Croton growing in containers should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 F. (15 C.). If it is exposed to temps lower than this, the croton will lose leaves and possibly die.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
In 1988 rose breeder William Radler developed the Knockout Rose shrub, which has since proven resistant to cold climates and many common rose diseases such as black spot. The best time to plant your Knockout roses is dependent on your location and the maturity of the rose roots or plants you are planting.
Seasons
According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, the best times to plant knockout roses are in the early spring or late winter if you live a region that experiences cold winter seasons. If you live in an area with a warm climate such as California, Texas or Florida, you can plant in the fall or early December.
Root or Plant
If you are planting rose bulbs or roots, you should plant them in the springtime to give them plenty of time to grow before the cold weather arrives. According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, rose plants can be placed in containers or planted in the ground during much of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or water logged.
Considerations
Knockout roses have proven their hardiness and durability relative to other types of roses--they are winter hardy to USDA Zone 5 and heat tolerant throughout the U.S. However, a few environmental threats are common to all roses, including Knockouts. Frost and cold weather will stunt the growth of Knockout roots or young plants, and they generally don't fair well when their roots are left to soak in water.
Tips
Wait until the last frost has passed before you begin planting. Check with your local nursery if you are unsure when it is safe to plant. Plant roses where there is plenty of drainage, and modify your watering patterns in accordance with heavy rain or prolonged sun and heat. In regions that experience especially cold winters, it may be necessary to provide protection for the knockouts in your garden; check with your local nursery for guidance.
Seasons
According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, the best times to plant knockout roses are in the early spring or late winter if you live a region that experiences cold winter seasons. If you live in an area with a warm climate such as California, Texas or Florida, you can plant in the fall or early December.
Root or Plant
If you are planting rose bulbs or roots, you should plant them in the springtime to give them plenty of time to grow before the cold weather arrives. According to Rose Gardening Made Easy, rose plants can be placed in containers or planted in the ground during much of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or water logged.
Considerations
Knockout roses have proven their hardiness and durability relative to other types of roses--they are winter hardy to USDA Zone 5 and heat tolerant throughout the U.S. However, a few environmental threats are common to all roses, including Knockouts. Frost and cold weather will stunt the growth of Knockout roots or young plants, and they generally don't fair well when their roots are left to soak in water.
Tips
Wait until the last frost has passed before you begin planting. Check with your local nursery if you are unsure when it is safe to plant. Plant roses where there is plenty of drainage, and modify your watering patterns in accordance with heavy rain or prolonged sun and heat. In regions that experience especially cold winters, it may be necessary to provide protection for the knockouts in your garden; check with your local nursery for guidance.
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