文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Why the Ming Aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) ever fell out of favor as a houseplant is beyond me. This plant is one of the easiest and loveliest houseplants available. With a little care and know how, Ming Aralia can bring green to your indoors.
How to Care for Ming Aralia Houseplants
Like most houseplants, Ming Aralia is a tropical plant, meaning it cannot survive temps below 50 F. (10 C.). In warmer climates, Ming Aralia makes an excellent outdoor shrub.
One important thing to keep in mind when growing Ming Aralia indoors is that it must be kept constantly moist. Even in the winter, when most houseplants need a reduction in the amount of water they receive, this plant’s soil should still be kept consistently moist (but not wet). Other than that one small detail, your Ming Aralia should require little upkeep.
Ming Aralia can grow to be 6 to 7 feet tall if properly cared for in an indoor environment, and is prone to grow up rather than out. For this reason, you may want to occasionally prune this plant. If possible, prune your Ming Aralia in the cooler months, as this is when the plant’s growth is reduced and the pruning will cause less damage to the plant. Controlled pruning of this plant can actually produce some pretty stunning results. Due to the naturally crooked growth of this plant, the lower stems can be trained into some interesting showpieces.
These plants also make nice bonsai specimens, but even when not used in this fashion they can add a certain Asian flair to a room. Ming Aralia needs medium, indirect light in an indoor environment. Make sure that the plant gets enough sunlight from a north- or east-facing window or a plant lamp.
If you wish to propagate this plant, all you need to do is take a cutting and place it in some damp soil. Keep the soil damp and the cutting should root in just a few weeks. For added chance of rooting success, place the pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Ming Aralia is certainly a plant that will make a splash in your house. The fine cut leaves and the interesting trunks make this a great addition to any indoor garden.
How to Care for Ming Aralia Houseplants
Like most houseplants, Ming Aralia is a tropical plant, meaning it cannot survive temps below 50 F. (10 C.). In warmer climates, Ming Aralia makes an excellent outdoor shrub.
One important thing to keep in mind when growing Ming Aralia indoors is that it must be kept constantly moist. Even in the winter, when most houseplants need a reduction in the amount of water they receive, this plant’s soil should still be kept consistently moist (but not wet). Other than that one small detail, your Ming Aralia should require little upkeep.
Ming Aralia can grow to be 6 to 7 feet tall if properly cared for in an indoor environment, and is prone to grow up rather than out. For this reason, you may want to occasionally prune this plant. If possible, prune your Ming Aralia in the cooler months, as this is when the plant’s growth is reduced and the pruning will cause less damage to the plant. Controlled pruning of this plant can actually produce some pretty stunning results. Due to the naturally crooked growth of this plant, the lower stems can be trained into some interesting showpieces.
These plants also make nice bonsai specimens, but even when not used in this fashion they can add a certain Asian flair to a room. Ming Aralia needs medium, indirect light in an indoor environment. Make sure that the plant gets enough sunlight from a north- or east-facing window or a plant lamp.
If you wish to propagate this plant, all you need to do is take a cutting and place it in some damp soil. Keep the soil damp and the cutting should root in just a few weeks. For added chance of rooting success, place the pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Ming Aralia is certainly a plant that will make a splash in your house. The fine cut leaves and the interesting trunks make this a great addition to any indoor garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Japanese aralia is a tropical plant that makes a bold statement in the garden, in outdoor containers or as a houseplant. Find out about fatsia growing conditions and care requirements in this article.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Aralia is a striking, multi-stemmed member of the Araliaceae family, a huge family that consists of more than 70 species. With so many types of aralia from which to choose, plant lovers can enjoy this plant in a variety of forms, including deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees, and beautiful indoor plants. Read on for more aralia plant information, including growing aralias and care of aralias.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Growing aluminum plants (Pilea cadierei) is easy and will add additional appeal to the home with pointed leaves splashed in a metallic silver. Let’s learn more about taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Alocasia, also called elephant’s ear, is a prolific and striking plant hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It requires very little maintenance once it gets going, and it can grow to impressive size, making it ideal for an attention grabbing spot in the garden or a pot. But how do you go about propagating alocasia plants? Keep reading to learn more about alocasia propagation methods and how to propagate alocasia. 
How to Propagate Alocasia Plants
Alocasia grows from rhizomes in the ground, and the best method of alocasia plant propagation involves splitting up these rhizomes. Propagation of alocasia should be done in spring or early summer, when the plant is just coming out of dormancy from the winter. With a shovel, carefully dig around the plant and lift it out of the ground. Dig at least 12 inches around the plant to avoid damaging the roots or the rhizomes themselves. Gently lift the plant out of the soil – there should be many long tubers just underneath the ground (those growing in containers can be gently pushed from the plant). Brush the soil away and carefully divide the tubers – each of these will grow into a new plant of its own.
Tips on Alocasia Plant Propagation The next step in alocasia plant propagation is to plant the rhizomes in a new spot. Choose somewhere that has rich, damp, loamy soil and receives partial shade. Don’t plant them any closer than 36 inches away from each other.
Dig a hole just deep enough that the tuber can be placed in it at the depth it was before. Give the new plant plenty of water, and before long you should start seeing new growth. If you’re propagating alocasia plants in containers, make sure to keep them somewhere warm and humid and to give them plenty of water.
How to Propagate Alocasia Plants
Alocasia grows from rhizomes in the ground, and the best method of alocasia plant propagation involves splitting up these rhizomes. Propagation of alocasia should be done in spring or early summer, when the plant is just coming out of dormancy from the winter. With a shovel, carefully dig around the plant and lift it out of the ground. Dig at least 12 inches around the plant to avoid damaging the roots or the rhizomes themselves. Gently lift the plant out of the soil – there should be many long tubers just underneath the ground (those growing in containers can be gently pushed from the plant). Brush the soil away and carefully divide the tubers – each of these will grow into a new plant of its own.
Tips on Alocasia Plant Propagation The next step in alocasia plant propagation is to plant the rhizomes in a new spot. Choose somewhere that has rich, damp, loamy soil and receives partial shade. Don’t plant them any closer than 36 inches away from each other.
Dig a hole just deep enough that the tuber can be placed in it at the depth it was before. Give the new plant plenty of water, and before long you should start seeing new growth. If you’re propagating alocasia plants in containers, make sure to keep them somewhere warm and humid and to give them plenty of water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
If you’re an indoor plant enthusiast and you’re looking for a unique addition to your collection of houseplants, then Alocasia may be the ideal plant for you. Also known as the African mask or Kris plant, Alocasia doesn’t come from Africa at all. It gets its name from its resemblance to the hand carved ceremonial masks found there but actually hails from the Philippine Islands. There are over 50 species of the Kris plant and Alocasia hybrids abound, making it difficult to identify the exact genetic history of the plants typically sold in catalogs and stores. Grown for its striking foliage, the African mask plant is not an easy care houseplant.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
This magnificent orchid grows in very wet meadows, and so wellington boots are a big advantage if you are intending to take photographs.
Description
Dactylorhiza elata can grow to well over a metre in height. The narrow leaves at the base of the plant are usually unspotted, although lightly marked specimens do sometimes occur.
The inflorescence is lax and carries up to 120 individual flowers, which vary in colour from pale to dark pink. The markings on the petals and sepals are extremely variable in shape and number; some flowers are covered with loops and spots while others have very few.
Distribution
The Robust Marsh-orchid occurs in the western Mediterranean region - Spain, Portugal and France as well as in some of the countries of central Europe including Bulgaria.
The specimen shown at the top of this page was photographed in late May in the Célé Valley, which runs parallel to the Lot Valley in southern France; the one seen below was found in Bulgaria in late June.
Habitat
Most commonly found in damp-to-wet alkaline meadows and fens in full sunshine, Dactylorhiza elata also occurs in seepages on roadside banks and verges.
Flowering times
This orchid can be seen in flower from April until July, and much depends on not only how far south they occur but also at what altitude. In lowland parts of southern France the plants can flower in May, but even further south, in northern Spain for instance, the plants flower much later because they mainly occur at high altitudes.
Description
Dactylorhiza elata can grow to well over a metre in height. The narrow leaves at the base of the plant are usually unspotted, although lightly marked specimens do sometimes occur.
The inflorescence is lax and carries up to 120 individual flowers, which vary in colour from pale to dark pink. The markings on the petals and sepals are extremely variable in shape and number; some flowers are covered with loops and spots while others have very few.
Distribution
The Robust Marsh-orchid occurs in the western Mediterranean region - Spain, Portugal and France as well as in some of the countries of central Europe including Bulgaria.
The specimen shown at the top of this page was photographed in late May in the Célé Valley, which runs parallel to the Lot Valley in southern France; the one seen below was found in Bulgaria in late June.
Habitat
Most commonly found in damp-to-wet alkaline meadows and fens in full sunshine, Dactylorhiza elata also occurs in seepages on roadside banks and verges.
Flowering times
This orchid can be seen in flower from April until July, and much depends on not only how far south they occur but also at what altitude. In lowland parts of southern France the plants can flower in May, but even further south, in northern Spain for instance, the plants flower much later because they mainly occur at high altitudes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Formerly known as Dactylorhiza majalis subsp. occidentalis, the Hebridean Marsh-orchid is endemic to Scotland and occurs only in the Outer Hebrides on the northern coast of North Uist.
Description
This is a short plant, growing to a maximum of 18cm in height but usually much shorter than that.
Leaves of the Hebridean Marsh-orchid are very distinctive: sharply pointed and with dark purple markings separated at the base, but which merge towards the points of the leaves so that they are often uniformly dark brownish-purple.
The flowers are deep magenta - reminiscent of the colour of the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella). Lateral sepals of the flower protrude outwards and upwards almost forming a vee-shape, and the upper sepal and petals form a hood over the column of the flower.
The lip (lower petal) is deeply lobed and has dark markings in the form of loops, dashes or spots which are sometimes almost indiscernible against the rich dark purple background colour of the petal itself.
Habitat
The best place to look for this orchid is in the species-rich coastal grasslands called the Machair, a calcium-rich habitat that is home to large numbers of chalk-loving wild orchids.
The Hebridean Marsh-orchid often occurs in small groups in the damper parts of the Machair which have been under water during the winter and early spring months and which retain a high level of moisture throughout the summer.
The Machair is a good place to see other wild orchid species including Early Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata), particularly its subspecies coccinea and the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella).
Flowering times
Hebridean Marsh-orchids flower from mid-May to mid-June.
Description
This is a short plant, growing to a maximum of 18cm in height but usually much shorter than that.
Leaves of the Hebridean Marsh-orchid are very distinctive: sharply pointed and with dark purple markings separated at the base, but which merge towards the points of the leaves so that they are often uniformly dark brownish-purple.
The flowers are deep magenta - reminiscent of the colour of the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella). Lateral sepals of the flower protrude outwards and upwards almost forming a vee-shape, and the upper sepal and petals form a hood over the column of the flower.
The lip (lower petal) is deeply lobed and has dark markings in the form of loops, dashes or spots which are sometimes almost indiscernible against the rich dark purple background colour of the petal itself.
Habitat
The best place to look for this orchid is in the species-rich coastal grasslands called the Machair, a calcium-rich habitat that is home to large numbers of chalk-loving wild orchids.
The Hebridean Marsh-orchid often occurs in small groups in the damper parts of the Machair which have been under water during the winter and early spring months and which retain a high level of moisture throughout the summer.
The Machair is a good place to see other wild orchid species including Early Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata), particularly its subspecies coccinea and the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella).
Flowering times
Hebridean Marsh-orchids flower from mid-May to mid-June.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The Lady's Slipper Orchid was recognised as a native European species in 1568, and the earliest record of a British plant is of a dried herbarium specimen from 1640, collected from the Ingleton area in Yorkshire.
Distribution
Although still widespread in some parts of Europe, the Lady's Slipper Orchid was always a rarity in Britian and consequently highly prized by plant collectors who, from the mid-18th Century, collected the plants with such ruthlessness that by 1888 great concern was being expressed at the disappearance of the Lady's Slipper Orchid from the wild. Regrettably the population continued to decline, resulting in its declared extinction by 1917.
In recent years a re-introduction programme has been carried out at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve in Lancashire. This programme which is jointly funded between Natural England and the Sainsburys Foundation has been very successful and there are now many flowering plants which can be visited by the public.
The best time to see this orchid at Gait Barrows NNR is in the first half of June.
Although driven to the brink of extinction in the UK the Lady's Slipper Orchid still occurs in the wild in various European countries including Sweden, Bulgaria, Slovenia, France, Switzerland and Finland.
The Lady's Slipper Orchid is rare and in decline in all its territories and is still the subject of plant theft.
Distribution
Although still widespread in some parts of Europe, the Lady's Slipper Orchid was always a rarity in Britian and consequently highly prized by plant collectors who, from the mid-18th Century, collected the plants with such ruthlessness that by 1888 great concern was being expressed at the disappearance of the Lady's Slipper Orchid from the wild. Regrettably the population continued to decline, resulting in its declared extinction by 1917.
In recent years a re-introduction programme has been carried out at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve in Lancashire. This programme which is jointly funded between Natural England and the Sainsburys Foundation has been very successful and there are now many flowering plants which can be visited by the public.
The best time to see this orchid at Gait Barrows NNR is in the first half of June.
Although driven to the brink of extinction in the UK the Lady's Slipper Orchid still occurs in the wild in various European countries including Sweden, Bulgaria, Slovenia, France, Switzerland and Finland.
The Lady's Slipper Orchid is rare and in decline in all its territories and is still the subject of plant theft.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Although an introduced alien species, Ivy-leaved Toadflax has had nearly 400 years to make itself at home in Britain and Ireland, and few people are aware that it is not a truly native wildflower.Identification
This trailing hairless perennial plant has lilac two-lipped flowers with two yellowish bulges on the lower lip. Its curved spur is unusually short for a toadflax. Flowers are 9 to 15mm across and each is borne on a long stalk growing from a leaf base.
It is easy to see how this plant spreads so rapidly: the fruit capsules develop on long stalks that gradually recurve towards the growing substrate and tuck their oval seeds into any likely places where the plant can get new toe-holds.The long-stalked leaves of Ivy-leaved Toadflax are palmate (sometimes but not always shaped rather like the leaves of Ivy!) with 3 to 7 lobes and ranging between 2.5 and 5cm across. Leaves alternate along the thin creeping red-flushed stems, which root at nodes whenever they find a suitable crevice. It seems meaningless to discus the 'height' of a plant that is equally at home on vertical and horizontal surfaces, but Cymbalaria muralis is low growing and the flowers are rarely more than 10cm away from the substrate.
Distribution
Native to the Mediterranean region and thought to have been brought to London with imported marble slabs from Italy in 1640, Ivy-leaved Toadflax was planted in gardens and has since escaped and become naturalised and very common throughout Britain and Ireland except for some parts of northern Scotland.Now very common throughout most of northern, central and southern Europe, Cymbalaria muralis has also become naturalised in many other parts of the world including North America, where its invasive qualities have resulted in a widespread distribution.
Habitat
Cymbalaria muralis is mainly found growing in and over walls, piles of rubble and similar places where its roots can get a grip in sparse soil that does not remain wet long enough for other plants to take over.
Blooming Times
The first flowers of Ivy-leaved Toadflax usually appear April and continue through to at least the end of September. In sheltered southern locations flowers can be seen all year round except in the harshest of winters.
Uses
Bare walls are made more attractive when colonised by Ivy-leaved Toadflax, but it is rarely necessary to plant these wildflowers because seeds, complete with a starter-pack of organic growing medium, are usually delivered by birds. The fruits are capsule-shaped which grow on long stalks that gradually recurve towards and into a likely place where the plant can get a new 'toe-hold'. Bees gather nectar from the flowers, and in so doing they contribute to pollination.
This trailing hairless perennial plant has lilac two-lipped flowers with two yellowish bulges on the lower lip. Its curved spur is unusually short for a toadflax. Flowers are 9 to 15mm across and each is borne on a long stalk growing from a leaf base.
It is easy to see how this plant spreads so rapidly: the fruit capsules develop on long stalks that gradually recurve towards the growing substrate and tuck their oval seeds into any likely places where the plant can get new toe-holds.The long-stalked leaves of Ivy-leaved Toadflax are palmate (sometimes but not always shaped rather like the leaves of Ivy!) with 3 to 7 lobes and ranging between 2.5 and 5cm across. Leaves alternate along the thin creeping red-flushed stems, which root at nodes whenever they find a suitable crevice. It seems meaningless to discus the 'height' of a plant that is equally at home on vertical and horizontal surfaces, but Cymbalaria muralis is low growing and the flowers are rarely more than 10cm away from the substrate.
Distribution
Native to the Mediterranean region and thought to have been brought to London with imported marble slabs from Italy in 1640, Ivy-leaved Toadflax was planted in gardens and has since escaped and become naturalised and very common throughout Britain and Ireland except for some parts of northern Scotland.Now very common throughout most of northern, central and southern Europe, Cymbalaria muralis has also become naturalised in many other parts of the world including North America, where its invasive qualities have resulted in a widespread distribution.
Habitat
Cymbalaria muralis is mainly found growing in and over walls, piles of rubble and similar places where its roots can get a grip in sparse soil that does not remain wet long enough for other plants to take over.
Blooming Times
The first flowers of Ivy-leaved Toadflax usually appear April and continue through to at least the end of September. In sheltered southern locations flowers can be seen all year round except in the harshest of winters.
Uses
Bare walls are made more attractive when colonised by Ivy-leaved Toadflax, but it is rarely necessary to plant these wildflowers because seeds, complete with a starter-pack of organic growing medium, are usually delivered by birds. The fruits are capsule-shaped which grow on long stalks that gradually recurve towards and into a likely place where the plant can get a new 'toe-hold'. Bees gather nectar from the flowers, and in so doing they contribute to pollination.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dodder is parasitic on a wide range of plants and shrubs, but in particular on members of the pea (Fabaceae) and heath (Ericaceae) families. Common dodder forms a mass of purple or reddish thread-like stems that crawl all over the host plant; and both the leaves, which are reduced to small scales, and the tiny flowers are very difficult to spot. The flowers appear in clusters and are white or pale pink.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Shade-loving hostas (Hosta spp.) produce their signature foliage in various colors, patterns, sizes and textures. These plants do best in the cooler climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Slugs are the usual culprits for holes chewed in hosta leaves, although other pests or factors can also cause this damage. Providing the hostas with good care and following excellent sanitation practices around the hostas will help to prevent or minimize the appearance of holes in the hosta leaves.
Step 1
Space plants well at planting or transplant or divide hostas so that there is good air circulation around the hosta foliage. Crowded hostas that are constantly damp are prone to fungal problems like anthracnose. Anthracnose appears as white to tan leaf spots with a dark border that often lose their center before the entire leaf develops a torn or tattered appearance.
Step 2
Keep debris, like excessive mulch, leaf litter, boards, stones and bricks, away from the hostas and thin out any dense ground cover plants near the hostas. Slugs feed on hostas at night and need a damp environment to hide in during the day. Holes caused by slugs are irregular but have a smooth edge. Cutworms chew long, oval holes between hosta leaf veins.
Step 3
Inspect the hosta plants and surrounding area at night with a flashlight, looking for slugs and cutworms. Pick off any pests you find and drown them in a bucket of soapy water.
Step 4
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth over the ground around the hostas. Reapply this material regularly and after each rainfall to ensure it remains effective. Diatomaceous earth will scratch the outer or protective layer of slugs and other pests, causing the pests to dry out and die.
Step 5
Drape a fabric sheet or similar material over the hostas whenever hail or out-of-season frosts are expected. Prop the cloth up with sticks, stakes or boards, so it is not directly in contact with the hosta. Hail damage to hosta leaves appears as holes with jagged edges and an overall torn or tattered appearance.
Step 1
Space plants well at planting or transplant or divide hostas so that there is good air circulation around the hosta foliage. Crowded hostas that are constantly damp are prone to fungal problems like anthracnose. Anthracnose appears as white to tan leaf spots with a dark border that often lose their center before the entire leaf develops a torn or tattered appearance.
Step 2
Keep debris, like excessive mulch, leaf litter, boards, stones and bricks, away from the hostas and thin out any dense ground cover plants near the hostas. Slugs feed on hostas at night and need a damp environment to hide in during the day. Holes caused by slugs are irregular but have a smooth edge. Cutworms chew long, oval holes between hosta leaf veins.
Step 3
Inspect the hosta plants and surrounding area at night with a flashlight, looking for slugs and cutworms. Pick off any pests you find and drown them in a bucket of soapy water.
Step 4
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth over the ground around the hostas. Reapply this material regularly and after each rainfall to ensure it remains effective. Diatomaceous earth will scratch the outer or protective layer of slugs and other pests, causing the pests to dry out and die.
Step 5
Drape a fabric sheet or similar material over the hostas whenever hail or out-of-season frosts are expected. Prop the cloth up with sticks, stakes or boards, so it is not directly in contact with the hosta. Hail damage to hosta leaves appears as holes with jagged edges and an overall torn or tattered appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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求助
Aurora
2017年08月09日
should I pull the bottom leaves off? I'm not sure if I leave them or pull them to make the plant prettier.
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oliviavael_27：Only pull of the very bottom ones, especially if they feel slightly loose, as that will give space for new growth.
Lucky Coyote：I agree, just a few offthe bottom, especially if they have squishy bases against the plant
meriunkat：hmm maybe just a few of the bottom that might be getting crushed, and then you could have them to propagate 😆, that's why I do with mine
