文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The Christmas cactus (Schumbergera bridgesii) is a member of the holiday cactus family. The bloom time of the plant is dependent on short periods of daylight and cool temperatures customary in late fall. The combination of cool temperatures and reduced sunlight causes the cactus to bloom in December. In October or November, encourage the cactus to set buds for a December bloom by setting the plant near a sunlit window in a room with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Christmas cactus is easy to propagate from a broken piece of a stem.
Step 1
Break or cut the stem to include two to three sections connected end to end. Each section has one flat end and one pointed end that connects to the previous section of the stem. Collect the stem sections about six months after the plant blooms, which could be May or June. During that six-month time frame, the plant will replenish nutrients depleted during the bloom cycle. A stem piece accidentally broken from the Christmas cactus can be rooted anytime, but it may not bloom the first year.
Step 2
Keep the sections connected. Each section should be whole. If the break occurred through a section, disconnect the torn section at a joint. The section can be disconnected at a joint by grasping a section in each hand with your thumbs close to the joint. Gently pinch and pull the sections apart. Place the sections on a saucer to dry overnight.
Step 3
Place perlite in a container at least 2 inches deep. Moisten the perlite.
Step 4
Examine the joint of the Christmas cactus section. The end should be dry and firm. If the joint is not dry, allow the sections to rest for a few more hours. If the joint is dry, insert the end into the moist perlite to a depth of about 1 inch. Multiple cuttings can be rooted in the same container. Space the cuttings about 1 inch apart.
Step 5
Cover the container with a plastic bag to hold in moisture. Secure the bag around the container. A small container may be placed inside a food storage bag that can be sealed from the top.
Step 6
Place the container in indirect sunlight. Keep the perlite moist. Minimal moisture inside the bag is expected. If moisture is dense, covering one-third of the bag, then open the bag to allow the excess moisture to escape.
Step 7
Examine the roots of one of the cuttings after six weeks in the perlite. If the roots are at least 1 inch long, the cutting is ready for transplanting into potting soil. Return the cutting to the perlite if roots are too short. Reseal the bag and check the roots again in about two weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A succulent is a plant which can store water within its leaves or bulbs for a long period of time without the need of frequent watering like other plants. You can mail a succulent plant to someone and not have to be worried about the plant not receiving any water for a few days. Packaging the plant properly will ensure its safe journey. Check with your local Department of Agriculture of extension office about rules on sending certain types of plants to other states or countries.
Step 1
Obtain the succulent you wish to send at a garden center or dig it up from your own yard. Shake off any excess soil. Don't water it. Succulent plants will travel better with dry roots.
Step 2
Wrap the succulent in tissue paper. For succulents with spikes, wrap carefully in three sheets of newspaper. Make a label for each plant and tape on the paper. Make a warning note for any succulents that have spikes.
Step 3
Place the roots of succulents such as epiphytes, orchid cacti or Christmas cactus in a plastic bag containing a small amount of peat moss and secure it with twine. Wrap the foliage in tissue paper or newspaper.
Step 4
Place the wrapped succulent into an inner box and then into a sturdy shipping box. The inner box will provide more protection especially for the succulents with pointy leaves.
Step 5
Fill in any empty spaces with newspaper to prevent the movement of the items during shipping.
Step 6
Secure the outer box with three strips of pressure sensitive tape that is 2 inches wide. Apply on the top, the bottom and all seam of the box, according to Federal Express. Write "Perishable" on the box and address it appropriately. Mail the succulents overnight to ensure a quick delivery.
Step 1
Obtain the succulent you wish to send at a garden center or dig it up from your own yard. Shake off any excess soil. Don't water it. Succulent plants will travel better with dry roots.
Step 2
Wrap the succulent in tissue paper. For succulents with spikes, wrap carefully in three sheets of newspaper. Make a label for each plant and tape on the paper. Make a warning note for any succulents that have spikes.
Step 3
Place the roots of succulents such as epiphytes, orchid cacti or Christmas cactus in a plastic bag containing a small amount of peat moss and secure it with twine. Wrap the foliage in tissue paper or newspaper.
Step 4
Place the wrapped succulent into an inner box and then into a sturdy shipping box. The inner box will provide more protection especially for the succulents with pointy leaves.
Step 5
Fill in any empty spaces with newspaper to prevent the movement of the items during shipping.
Step 6
Secure the outer box with three strips of pressure sensitive tape that is 2 inches wide. Apply on the top, the bottom and all seam of the box, according to Federal Express. Write "Perishable" on the box and address it appropriately. Mail the succulents overnight to ensure a quick delivery.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cacti gets its name because it blooms around the month of December, during the holiday season. Even though they only bloom during the holiday season, the plant needs to be taken care of throughout the year. This includes watering the the cactus periodically and keeping it in indirect light. Christmas cacti like night temperatures to be cool and day temperatures to be around 70 degrees. Christmas cacti feature flat leaves with round teeth and bright pink to purple flowers. Help out the blooming process with a bit of caster oil.
Step 1
Keep your Christmas cactus inside at room temperature and allow it to get partial sun during spring, summer and fall.
Step 2
Take the plant out of any bright light in the evening to help it come into bloom.
Step 3
Add one to two tablespoons of caster oil to your plant's soil in late September or early October. You want the caster oil to penetrate the soil and get as close to the roots as possible. This will help the cactus produce more blooms later in the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The dragon fruit is a cactus known for its sweet, custard-like fruit and crunchy seeds. The dragon fruit name refers to both the fruit and the plant. The plant also goes by other names such as pitaya and strawberry pear. The plant blooms only at night and is pollinated by bats and moths.
USDA Hardiness Zones
Dragon fruit grow well in tropical and subtropical climates, USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, but grow outdoors in zone 9 with protection during occasional freezing weather. They do not rely on climatic conditions for ripening, so they can be grown in other areas in greenhouses or with protection from the cold. They are currently grown in tropical and subtropical areas of the United States, including South Florida, California and Hawaii.
Heat Tolerance
Dragon fruit grow well in warm weather, but are vulnerable to extreme heat and sun. Ideal temperatures for growth are between 65 degrees and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures over 100 degrees are excessive and damage the plant. Dragon fruit like full sun, but they do fine with some shade. Extreme sun combined with low humidity or high altitude can sunburn the stems and cause severe damage, especially when the plants are young. Protect the plants with 30 percent shading during the first three or four months.
Cold Tolerance
Dragon fruit quickly recover from a light frost, but sustained freezing temperatures damage the plant. The fruit are susceptible to chilling injury below 40 degrees.
Soil Preferences
Dragon fruit are moderately to highly tolerant of salt in the soil. They prefer a rich, mildly acidic to neutral soil, pH 6.1 to 7.5.
Wind and Rain
Dragon fruit need support for their heavy stems. They can be damaged by strong wind conditions that compromise the support structure. They need 25 to 50 inches of rain or irrigation each year, with irrigation twice a week during fruiting. They are prone to flower drop and root rot in excessively wet conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A cactus that has been growing upright but is now leaning like the Tower of Pisa should be a concern for the gardener. The plant may be perfectly healthy, or it may be sick. Careful observations can help determine why the plant is leaning. If a problem is detected early, solutions are available that will save the cactus.
Sunlight
Even if your cactus is planted in full sun, it may lean. Plants naturally grow toward the sunlight. The barrel cactus grows southward toward the sun so much that it practically lies over on one side. If the cactus is otherwise healthy, this is not a danger. However, if a cactus planted in partial shade is leaning, it may need more sunlight. A cactus in this condition will look sickly and have weak, flimsy stems that are yellow-green. The plant should gradually be exposed to stronger sunlight to prevent sunburn.
Improper Planting
If the cactus is leaning from the ground, it may be loosely planted in the soil. Improper watering may be the reason. After watering a cactus, the soil must be allowed to completely dry out before watering again. Watering too frequently prevents the soil from hardening around the base of the cactus and causes the soil to loosen. Provided there is no root rot, either transplanting the cactus in dry soil or packing more dirt around it is a solution. Also, adding a layer of small rocks or gravel on the surface can stabilize the cactus.
Rot
Rot is caused from fungi and bacteria growing on the plant. The most common reason for rot is watering the cactus too often. The infected spot will have a watery, slimy, black appearance. Rot begins at the base of the cactus and works its way to the top. Rotting plants start to lean, then collapse and die. If rot is detected early, dig up the cactus and replant it in dry soil. Otherwise, remove the cactus from the soil, and cut the healthy top away from the diseased part. Allow the top to dry, and dust the cut surface with a fungicide before replanting it in sandy soil.
Insects
Insects eating the stem of the cactus can weaken the plant and cause it to lean. A plant infested with mealy bugs will stop growing and take on a sickly, deformed appearance. Mealy bugs should be removed with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Ants nesting at the base of the cactus eat away at the stem causing it to lean and eventually fall over. Wash away the ants with a strong, lukewarm stream of water. A cactus weakened by insects may develop fungi and rot and will die if not treated.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The jumping cholla cactus (Opuntia fulgida) gets its name from spiny segments that detach so easily they seem to attack anyone near them. This plant can go beyond painful contact in a garden or on a hiking trail and become an aggressive menace. The jumping cholla grows in U.S. Department of 
Agriculture plant hardiness zones zones 8b through 11.
Jumping Cactus Basics
The jumping cholla grows 8 to 10 feet tall in a tree shape and produces fuschia-colored blossoms in spring. It's also called chain fruit cholla, boxing glove cholla, velas de coyote, cholla brincadora and hanging chain cholla. This drought-tolerant cactus attracts birds, bees and butterflies. In addition to adding an authentic rustic desert texture and color to a yard, the spiny jumping cholla provides a formidable barrier, such as to deter a potential burglar from approaching an upstairs window. Yet the protective features of the jumping cholla mean you must take care to avoid accidental injury.
The Better to Spike You With
Natural health advocate Dr. Andrew Weil describes the jumping cholla as the most dangerous cactus where he lives near Tucson, Arizona. The jumping cholla is covered with sharp spines and masses of fine, irritating barbs, called glochids. When the spines touch skin or clothing, the segment comes off the plant. If a "boxing glove" from a cholla attaches to you, its large and fine spikes get into your skin. The reverse barbs make them difficult to remove.
Spiny Projectiles and Glochids
Attempting to shake a jumping cholla segment off could cause it to hit your face, another person or a pet. Use a large comb or sticks to remove it. A strong wind may cause segments to fly and hit anyone nearby. A reflex to suck the painful glochids out of the skin can cause them to embed in the soft tissues of the mouth, tongue, throat and windpipe, and may be fatal, advises KCET.
The Spiky Takeover
Mesa, Arizona has a record of a massive growths of jumping cholla overrunning sidewalks, bus stops and cul de sacs, putting passersby, playing children and pets in danger. The city had to remove the menacing cactuses. Protect yourself if you have to handle this type of cactus. Wear reinforced work gloves, safety goggles, a hat, and heavy-duty, long-sleeve shirt and pants when you plant, transplant, take cuttings, harvest seeds or remove an invasive jumping cholla. If you need to handle it, do so with metal implements, such as barbecue tongs, whenever possible.
Agriculture plant hardiness zones zones 8b through 11.
Jumping Cactus Basics
The jumping cholla grows 8 to 10 feet tall in a tree shape and produces fuschia-colored blossoms in spring. It's also called chain fruit cholla, boxing glove cholla, velas de coyote, cholla brincadora and hanging chain cholla. This drought-tolerant cactus attracts birds, bees and butterflies. In addition to adding an authentic rustic desert texture and color to a yard, the spiny jumping cholla provides a formidable barrier, such as to deter a potential burglar from approaching an upstairs window. Yet the protective features of the jumping cholla mean you must take care to avoid accidental injury.
The Better to Spike You With
Natural health advocate Dr. Andrew Weil describes the jumping cholla as the most dangerous cactus where he lives near Tucson, Arizona. The jumping cholla is covered with sharp spines and masses of fine, irritating barbs, called glochids. When the spines touch skin or clothing, the segment comes off the plant. If a "boxing glove" from a cholla attaches to you, its large and fine spikes get into your skin. The reverse barbs make them difficult to remove.
Spiny Projectiles and Glochids
Attempting to shake a jumping cholla segment off could cause it to hit your face, another person or a pet. Use a large comb or sticks to remove it. A strong wind may cause segments to fly and hit anyone nearby. A reflex to suck the painful glochids out of the skin can cause them to embed in the soft tissues of the mouth, tongue, throat and windpipe, and may be fatal, advises KCET.
The Spiky Takeover
Mesa, Arizona has a record of a massive growths of jumping cholla overrunning sidewalks, bus stops and cul de sacs, putting passersby, playing children and pets in danger. The city had to remove the menacing cactuses. Protect yourself if you have to handle this type of cactus. Wear reinforced work gloves, safety goggles, a hat, and heavy-duty, long-sleeve shirt and pants when you plant, transplant, take cuttings, harvest seeds or remove an invasive jumping cholla. If you need to handle it, do so with metal implements, such as barbecue tongs, whenever possible.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Variously called "Ruby Ball," "Red Cap Cactus," "Moon Cactus" or "Hibotan" (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii "Rubra" graft), this brightly colored plant results from grafting two different species of cactus together. The top part, the scion, can't live on its own, since it lacks chlorophyll, and it is essentially a parasite on the bottom rootstock plant. To grow the plant successfully you need to consider the growing requirements of both the scion and the rootstock.
History
The red mutation of the plaid cactus (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii) originated in Japan when a nurseryman noticed two completely red seedling plants among thousands of tiny seedlings. They were immediately grafted onto rootstock, since they wouldn't have lived long on their own without chlorophyll. From these two plants have come the millions of ruby ball cactus grown around the world as a houseplant. The bottom rootstock plant is usually night-blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans).
Light
The plaid cactus scion can't tolerate bright sunlight, since it doesn't have the shielding that chlorophyll offers. In addition, the parent species grows as a small cactus beneath sheltering shrubs in deserts of Paraguay and prefers shaded conditions. The night-blooming cereus rootstock also prefers shade, since it is a tropical cactus that grows beneath jungle trees. Blue myrtle cactus grows in direct sunlight but tolerates shaded conditions. For the sake of the scion, even when grown on sun-tolerant rootstock the plant needs bright indirect light.
Watering and Soil
Both rootstocks are vigorous growers, but night-blooming cereus grows fastest, growing more than 40 feet on its own.This rootstock will need more watering than blue myrtle. Grow ruby ball grafts in well-draining cactus mix. Overwatering is more likely for the slower-growing more drought-tolerant blue myrtle. For both rootstocks, watch the top inch of soil. When it is dry, water the plant until water comes through the pot's drainage holes. The time interval varies, depending on the ambient temperatures, the soil mixture and how fast the plant is growing.
Temperature
The red scion is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12. The night-blooming cereus rootstock grows in USDA zones 10 through 11. This combination leads to quick death of both scion and rootstock if exposed to temperatures near freezing. Blue myrtle cactus is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. If ruby ball grafts on blue myrtle encounter freezing temperatures, the scion dies and the rootstock survives.
Regrafting
Over time, the tissue between the grafted cacti becomes corky and less viable. Growth of the scion slows or halts, with the scion eventually dying. You can prolong its life by regrafting it. Using a sharp knife sterilized with alcohol, cut the top off a seedling columnar cactus and cut the scion from the old rootstock. Identify the circle of vascular tissue toward the center of the stems of the scion and new rootstock, and press the plants together so the circles partially align. Put rubber bands over the scion and the bottom of the pot the rootstock is growing in, holding them together until the tissues grow together.
Pruning
Any time you notice that the rootstock is putting out a branch of its own, immediately remove it. If allowed to develop, the rootstock will give all the food and moisture to its own branch rather than to the grafted scion, and the scion dies. If the branch is young enough, you can simply twist it off or push it off. If it is larger, use sharp clean pruning shears or a sharp clean knife to remove it. Night-blooming cereus is the shortest-lived rootstock and produces more branches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Fusarium crown rot disease is a serious problem that can affect a wide range of plant species, both annual and perennial alike. It rots the roots and crown of a plant and can lead to wilting and discoloration on the stems and leaves. There is no chemical fusarium crown rot treatment, and it can cause stunted growth and even eventual death. There are steps you can take toward fusarium crown rot control, however, that include prevention, isolation and sanitation.
Keep reading to learn more about fusarium crown rot disease and fusarium crown rot treatment. Fusarium Crown Rot Control Many of the symptoms of fusarium crown rot disease take place, unfortunately, underground. There are, however, signs that affect the above-ground part of the plant, too. The leaves may become wilted and take on a yellowed, scorched appearance.
Also brown, dead lesions or streaks may appear on the lower part of the stem. Usually, by the time fusarium is visible above ground, its spread is pretty extensive below ground. It can also be seen in bulbs that are shriveled or rotten. Never plant these bulbs – they may be harboring the fusarium fungus and planting them could introduce it to otherwise healthy soil.
Treating Fusarium Rot in Plants Once fusarium is in the soil, it can live there for years. The best way to prevent it is to keep the soil well drained and to plant cultivars that are resistant to the disease. If it has already appeared, the best method of treating fusarium rot is removing and destroying affected plants. You can sterilize soil by moistening it and laying down clear plastic sheeting. Leave the sheeting in place for four to six weeks during the summer – the intensified heat of the sun should kill the fungus living in the soil. You can also leave an infected area unplanted for four years – without plants to grow on, the fungus will eventually die.
Keep reading to learn more about fusarium crown rot disease and fusarium crown rot treatment. Fusarium Crown Rot Control Many of the symptoms of fusarium crown rot disease take place, unfortunately, underground. There are, however, signs that affect the above-ground part of the plant, too. The leaves may become wilted and take on a yellowed, scorched appearance.
Also brown, dead lesions or streaks may appear on the lower part of the stem. Usually, by the time fusarium is visible above ground, its spread is pretty extensive below ground. It can also be seen in bulbs that are shriveled or rotten. Never plant these bulbs – they may be harboring the fusarium fungus and planting them could introduce it to otherwise healthy soil.
Treating Fusarium Rot in Plants Once fusarium is in the soil, it can live there for years. The best way to prevent it is to keep the soil well drained and to plant cultivars that are resistant to the disease. If it has already appeared, the best method of treating fusarium rot is removing and destroying affected plants. You can sterilize soil by moistening it and laying down clear plastic sheeting. Leave the sheeting in place for four to six weeks during the summer – the intensified heat of the sun should kill the fungus living in the soil. You can also leave an infected area unplanted for four years – without plants to grow on, the fungus will eventually die.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Diagnosing plant ailments is crucial to plant management and health. Cenangium canker of trees is one of the more insidious diseases. What is Cenangium canker? Read on for tips on recognizing, treating and managing sooty bark canker. What is Cenangium Canker? Pine, spruce and fir trees provide much needed shade, animal food and cover, and enhance the landscape with their architectural elegance. Unfortunately, these species are prone to fungal diseases such as sooty bark canker, or Cenangium. Over time, the disease can girdle your trees, reducing nutrients and water to the upper growth and preventing the flow of plant starches that feed development.
Trees can die without proper treatment. Cenangium is a fungal disease that produces a slow growing canker that affects the above mentioned evergreens as well as aspens. It is the most widespread canker on trees in the West. Infection begins in July through September when spores germinate and land on damaged or cut parts of the tree. Once the spores have taken root, they fruit and spread anew. Damage is seen as small oval, dead areas of bark. Over time, it can kill entire branches and in a bad year, spread to all parts of the tree. Fortunately, Cenangium canker of trees is extremely slow growing and tree death rarely results unless it is repeatedly attacked over several seasons and also experiences stresses such as low water and other disease or pest issues. Managing Sooty Bark Canker Sadly, there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment. This means early recognition is essential to managing sooty bark canker.
In addition to dead areas of the bark, the needles will begin to brown and die or leaves will wither and fall off. Each year’s growth of the fungus will produce light and dark areas, “zebra”-like girdling of the stems. As the outer bark is eaten away, the interior bark is exposed as powdery and black. Over time, the canker girdles the stem or branch and it will completely die. In nature, this has a somewhat beneficial effect, helping trees get rid of old limbs. Fruiting bodies are 1/8 inch wide, cup-shaped and gray and granular. Since there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment, management of the disease is the only option. The only line of defense is recognizing the symptoms early and taking steps to remove infected plant material. The spores can persist, so it is not recommended to compost the material but rather bag it and send it to the landfill or burn it.
Use good pruning techniques when removing diseased limbs. Do not cut into the branch collar and use sterile tools to prevent spreading the spores. Remove infected limbs as soon as possible before fruiting bodies shoot ripe ascospores into the air in moist conditions. Ascospores are the next generation of the fungus and will rapidly spread in ideal weather climates.
Trees can die without proper treatment. Cenangium is a fungal disease that produces a slow growing canker that affects the above mentioned evergreens as well as aspens. It is the most widespread canker on trees in the West. Infection begins in July through September when spores germinate and land on damaged or cut parts of the tree. Once the spores have taken root, they fruit and spread anew. Damage is seen as small oval, dead areas of bark. Over time, it can kill entire branches and in a bad year, spread to all parts of the tree. Fortunately, Cenangium canker of trees is extremely slow growing and tree death rarely results unless it is repeatedly attacked over several seasons and also experiences stresses such as low water and other disease or pest issues. Managing Sooty Bark Canker Sadly, there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment. This means early recognition is essential to managing sooty bark canker.
In addition to dead areas of the bark, the needles will begin to brown and die or leaves will wither and fall off. Each year’s growth of the fungus will produce light and dark areas, “zebra”-like girdling of the stems. As the outer bark is eaten away, the interior bark is exposed as powdery and black. Over time, the canker girdles the stem or branch and it will completely die. In nature, this has a somewhat beneficial effect, helping trees get rid of old limbs. Fruiting bodies are 1/8 inch wide, cup-shaped and gray and granular. Since there is no effective Cenangium canker treatment, management of the disease is the only option. The only line of defense is recognizing the symptoms early and taking steps to remove infected plant material. The spores can persist, so it is not recommended to compost the material but rather bag it and send it to the landfill or burn it.
Use good pruning techniques when removing diseased limbs. Do not cut into the branch collar and use sterile tools to prevent spreading the spores. Remove infected limbs as soon as possible before fruiting bodies shoot ripe ascospores into the air in moist conditions. Ascospores are the next generation of the fungus and will rapidly spread in ideal weather climates.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Diseases in plants can be very difficult to diagnose due to the nearly infinite numbers of pathogens. Phytoplasma disease in plants are generally seen as “yellows,” a form of disease common in many plant species. What is phytoplasma disease? Well, first you need to understand the phytoplasma life cycle and how they are spread. New studies indicate that phytoplasma effects on plants can mimic damage shown by psyllid insects or leaf roll virus. Phytoplasma Life Cycle Phytoplasmas infect plants and insects. They are spread by insects through their feeding activities which inject the pathogen into the phloem of the plants. 
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
What is volutella blight on plants? Also known as leaf and stem blight, volutella blight is a destructive disease that affects pachysandra plants and boxwood shrubs. Early diagnosis and vigilant plant care are the keys to volutella blight control. Read on to learn about treating volutella blight. Volutella Blight Symptoms Initial symptoms, which appear in early spring, frequently resemble winter injury. Volutella blight symptoms begin with delayed emergence of new growth and patches of wilted, discolored, yellow, red or bronze leaves that gradually increase in size before turning black and falling from the plant.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Crocus
Often poking up through the last drifts of snow, crocuses are one of the opening acts of the spring-bulb show. Their large cup-shape blooms suddenly appearing in tufts of grasslike foliage seem magical. Plant crocuses in masses under trees and shrubs or in lawns for a dramatic early spring start in your garden. They thrive in any well-drained soil in full to partial sun.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 3 feet
WIDTH:1-3 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, Red, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Chartreuse/Gold
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control
SPECIAL FEATURES:Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:3-8
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Corydalis
It's hard to find bright color for shade, so it's a puzzle that brightly colored corydalis isn't more widely planted. It's is an outstanding shade plant. Blooms are small, but they appear in clusters. Leaves look similar to those of fringe-leaf bleeding heart. Plants self-seed readily, but excess seedlings are easy to remove. Provide the plant with moist, organic soil for best growth.
Shown above: Yellow corydalis
LIGHT:Part Sun, Shade
TYPE:Bulb, Perennial
HEIGHT:1 to 3 feet
WIDTH:12-18 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green, Chartreuse/Gold
SEASONAL FEATURES:Fall Bloom, Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:4-9
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Colchicum
Delightful colchicum is a dramatic plant for adding a burst of fall color to your garden. It bears big flowers that look like crocus in shades of pink and white. The flowers rise about 6 inches above the ground and appear seemingly overnight, so plant it near a path or other spot where you're sure to see it.
Like crocus, this bulb blooms year after year, getting bigger and better with age. And also like most crocus, it produces foliage in spring -- so don't be surprised to see the long, strappy leaves among your tulips and other early season bulbs. The leaves gather energy for the blooms, then disappear by midsummer.
One note: All parts of the plant are poisonous -- so be sure to keep it away from children who might be tempted to eat its candy-color blooms. Because it's poisonous, however, it's typically ignored by even the hungriest deer, rabbits, and other critters.
LIGHT:Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 12 inches
WIDTH:To 12 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Pink, White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Fall Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:4-9
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