文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
One of the neatest things about bromeliads are their flowers. The flowers can stay blooming for months, but eventually they fade and die. This doesn’t mean the plant is dying; it just means the plant is focusing energy on the leaves and roots. Do bromeliads flower once and never again? Some bromeliads bloom regularly while others don’t. Getting bromeliads to rebloom takes the patience of a saint, time and the right variety.
Care of Bromeliads after Flowering
Bromeliads often come with their amazing flowers in bloom. These wonderful inflorescences last for months and the plant itself thrives with minimal care in bright indirect light. It is always sad to watch the bloom die, especially since the plant itself probably will not bloom. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel. With good bromeliad care after flowering, the plant will produce pups. Only mature bromeliads bloom; therefore, you can wait until a pup matures and enjoy the same flower spike.
Bromeliads are denizens of tropical rainforests. They are epiphytic in nature and reproduce vegetatively by forming offsets or pups. Once the unique flower is spent, you should remove it so the plant can spend its energy on forming pups. Bromeliad care after flowering is much the same while it was in flower. The leaves form a cup in which you can pour water. Occasionally change the water in the cup and rinse the area to remove any salt or mineral build up. From spring until the dormant season in winter, mix a half dosage of liquid fertilizer every 2 months applied to the soil, not to the cup. Care of bromeliads after flowering is focused on getting vegetative growth and new pups so you can separate them for future blooming plants.
Getting Bromeliads to Rebloom
Bromeliad flowers are such unexpected forms and colors. When the blooms are spent, the plant is still spectacular, but you miss the vibrant flower tones. Do bromeliads flower once? Yes, they do. It takes a mature plant to flower and once it does, it produces offsets and the main plant gradually begins to die. It can take years, but eventually all you will have left is its offspring. Luckily, each of these can be divided away, potted up and grown for a few years to maturity. If you are lucky, these will produce the same bloom as the parent plant. It is quite a long time to wait but may well be worth it since these plants need little special care.
Use sterile scissors or a knife to divide the pup away from the parent. You should wait to do this until the offset is a third the size of the parent. If necessary, you can trim back the parent plant’s leaves to allow more room for the pup to grow. Remove pups in spring for best results. Allow the wound to callus for one week. Mix a batch of medium with equal parts bark nuggets, perlite and peat. Insert the cut end of the pup and any roots into the medium. The pup may need support for the first few weeks as more extensive roots are grown. Otherwise, the same care you gave the parent will produce a healthy plant. To help it bloom, you can add time release fertilizer in spring around the soil medium.
Care of Bromeliads after Flowering
Bromeliads often come with their amazing flowers in bloom. These wonderful inflorescences last for months and the plant itself thrives with minimal care in bright indirect light. It is always sad to watch the bloom die, especially since the plant itself probably will not bloom. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel. With good bromeliad care after flowering, the plant will produce pups. Only mature bromeliads bloom; therefore, you can wait until a pup matures and enjoy the same flower spike.
Bromeliads are denizens of tropical rainforests. They are epiphytic in nature and reproduce vegetatively by forming offsets or pups. Once the unique flower is spent, you should remove it so the plant can spend its energy on forming pups. Bromeliad care after flowering is much the same while it was in flower. The leaves form a cup in which you can pour water. Occasionally change the water in the cup and rinse the area to remove any salt or mineral build up. From spring until the dormant season in winter, mix a half dosage of liquid fertilizer every 2 months applied to the soil, not to the cup. Care of bromeliads after flowering is focused on getting vegetative growth and new pups so you can separate them for future blooming plants.
Getting Bromeliads to Rebloom
Bromeliad flowers are such unexpected forms and colors. When the blooms are spent, the plant is still spectacular, but you miss the vibrant flower tones. Do bromeliads flower once? Yes, they do. It takes a mature plant to flower and once it does, it produces offsets and the main plant gradually begins to die. It can take years, but eventually all you will have left is its offspring. Luckily, each of these can be divided away, potted up and grown for a few years to maturity. If you are lucky, these will produce the same bloom as the parent plant. It is quite a long time to wait but may well be worth it since these plants need little special care.
Use sterile scissors or a knife to divide the pup away from the parent. You should wait to do this until the offset is a third the size of the parent. If necessary, you can trim back the parent plant’s leaves to allow more room for the pup to grow. Remove pups in spring for best results. Allow the wound to callus for one week. Mix a batch of medium with equal parts bark nuggets, perlite and peat. Insert the cut end of the pup and any roots into the medium. The pup may need support for the first few weeks as more extensive roots are grown. Otherwise, the same care you gave the parent will produce a healthy plant. To help it bloom, you can add time release fertilizer in spring around the soil medium.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The ability of a plant to obtain necessary plant nutrients depends largely on the pH of its soil, measured on a scale of 1 to 14. Acidic soil, sometimes called "sour" soil, has a pH below 7, considered neutral. Alkaline soil, sometimes called "sweet" soil, has a pH above 7. Most rose cultivars prefer a pH between 6 and 7. If your soil pH is below 6, you can increase the number by adding lime.
Climate and Soil
There are between 150 and 300 species and 6,000 cultivars in the Rosa genus. Roses will grow in most soils that have a high organic content, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4b to 10b, depending on the species and cultivar. To determine if you need to add lime to your soil you have to know its pH. Test it either in the fall or spring.
Testing Soil pH
Use a spade, spoon or trowel to take a sample from the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Do not do this when the soil is wet. Spread the sample on plastic wrap and let it dry overnight. When it's completely dry, remove stones and solid matter and put the soil in a plastic bag. It's now ready to test using a home soil testing kit that you can buy from most garden supply centers. Alternatively, you can have it tested by a commercial testing service that will also tell you of any mineral deficiencies in the soil. If your soil pH is too low for roses, add lime to raise the number.
How Much Lime to Apply
Finely ground limestone, calcium carbonate, available at most garden supply centers, is typically recommended for home gardeners. How much lime to apply to raise soil pH to 6.5, ideal for roses, depends on the type of soil. For clay soil: Add 29 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 41 1/4 ounces per square yard to 5 pH clay soil, and 53 ounces per square yard for 4.5 pH, per recommendations from The Royal Horticultural Society. For loam soil: Add 23 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 35 1/4 ounces per square yard on 5 pH loam soil, and 44 1/4 ounces per square yard on 4.5 pH. For sandy soil: Add 20 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 29 1/2 ounces per square yard to 5 pH sandy soil, and 38 1/4 ounces to 4.5 pH.
How to Apply
Winter is a good time to apply lime. If you apply more than 14 3/4 ounces of lime per square yard, dig half of it into the top 6 inches of soil and sprinkle the other half on the surface when you're finished. If you apply less than that amount per square yard, dig all of it into the soil. If digging is impractical, sprinkle all of it on top of the soil. It's best to add lime before you plant roses. If you sprinkle it around plants, it can take years to have any effect.
Climate and Soil
There are between 150 and 300 species and 6,000 cultivars in the Rosa genus. Roses will grow in most soils that have a high organic content, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4b to 10b, depending on the species and cultivar. To determine if you need to add lime to your soil you have to know its pH. Test it either in the fall or spring.
Testing Soil pH
Use a spade, spoon or trowel to take a sample from the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Do not do this when the soil is wet. Spread the sample on plastic wrap and let it dry overnight. When it's completely dry, remove stones and solid matter and put the soil in a plastic bag. It's now ready to test using a home soil testing kit that you can buy from most garden supply centers. Alternatively, you can have it tested by a commercial testing service that will also tell you of any mineral deficiencies in the soil. If your soil pH is too low for roses, add lime to raise the number.
How Much Lime to Apply
Finely ground limestone, calcium carbonate, available at most garden supply centers, is typically recommended for home gardeners. How much lime to apply to raise soil pH to 6.5, ideal for roses, depends on the type of soil. For clay soil: Add 29 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 41 1/4 ounces per square yard to 5 pH clay soil, and 53 ounces per square yard for 4.5 pH, per recommendations from The Royal Horticultural Society. For loam soil: Add 23 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 35 1/4 ounces per square yard on 5 pH loam soil, and 44 1/4 ounces per square yard on 4.5 pH. For sandy soil: Add 20 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 29 1/2 ounces per square yard to 5 pH sandy soil, and 38 1/4 ounces to 4.5 pH.
How to Apply
Winter is a good time to apply lime. If you apply more than 14 3/4 ounces of lime per square yard, dig half of it into the top 6 inches of soil and sprinkle the other half on the surface when you're finished. If you apply less than that amount per square yard, dig all of it into the soil. If digging is impractical, sprinkle all of it on top of the soil. It's best to add lime before you plant roses. If you sprinkle it around plants, it can take years to have any effect.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose bush plants come in containers, with fully developed root systems, or as bare-root plants, in boxes of peat to keep them moist. When you plant the rose bush in hardiness zone 8 depends on which type it is.
Hardiness Zone 8 Characteristics
USDA hardiness zone 8a has lows of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, and USDA hardiness zone 8b has lows of 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. An example of a city in zone 8a is Dallas, Texas. Gainesville, Florida, is in zone 8b.
USDA Zone Ratings & Roses
Most roses are rated with a minimum zone of cold hardiness. For instance, a rose plant hardy to USDA zone 3 can withstand temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Rose plants listed for USDA hardiness zone 8 can not withstand severe temperatures but do well in extreme heat.
Planting Times
Rose bushes should be planted when the soil is cool and moist. In regions within USDA hardiness zone 8, January is the best time to plant bare-root rose plants. Containerized rose plants, which have more developed root systems, can be planted year-round.
Hardiness Zone 8 Characteristics
USDA hardiness zone 8a has lows of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, and USDA hardiness zone 8b has lows of 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. An example of a city in zone 8a is Dallas, Texas. Gainesville, Florida, is in zone 8b.
USDA Zone Ratings & Roses
Most roses are rated with a minimum zone of cold hardiness. For instance, a rose plant hardy to USDA zone 3 can withstand temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Rose plants listed for USDA hardiness zone 8 can not withstand severe temperatures but do well in extreme heat.
Planting Times
Rose bushes should be planted when the soil is cool and moist. In regions within USDA hardiness zone 8, January is the best time to plant bare-root rose plants. Containerized rose plants, which have more developed root systems, can be planted year-round.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata bostoniensis) is a dependable, old-fashioned charmer that decorates the environment with cascades of graceful, deep green fronds. Boston fern is a tropical plant that thrives with minimal care; however, light requirements for Boston ferns is a critical aspect of successful growing. Keep reading to learn about Boston fern light needs, including Boston fern light conditions.
How Much Light Does a Boston Fern Need?
Boston fern light needs vary depending on the time of year. The plant benefits from bright, indirect light during fall and winter. A location where the plant gets at least two hours of indirect sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or late afternoon, is ideal.
Boston fern light conditions must change when sunlight is more intense in spring and summer. During the sunny time of year, the fern needs a semi-shady location, such as a window with a northern exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight from a window with southern or western exposure unless the window is protected by a sheer curtain, or if the window is shaded by a tall outdoor tree. Consider two important factors when you think about Boston fern indoor light any time of year. Boston fern won’t tolerate bright sunlight or total shade.
First, avoid intense, direct light, which can scorch the fronds. Secondly, keep in mind that without adequate sunlight, the plant won’t thrive and is likely to drop its leaves. Now that you know about Boston fern light conditions, you can consider the plant’s other needs, which aren’t complicated. Water the plant deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly before you return the plant to its drainage saucer. If the indoor air is dry, place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles to raise the humidity around the plant, but never let the pot sit in water.
Fertilize the fern every four to six weeks during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or use organic fish emulsion. Mist the plant occasionally to clean dust from the leaves, but don’t overdo; damp fronds are more susceptible to disease. Snip old fronds at soil level to generate healthy new growth.
How Much Light Does a Boston Fern Need?
Boston fern light needs vary depending on the time of year. The plant benefits from bright, indirect light during fall and winter. A location where the plant gets at least two hours of indirect sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or late afternoon, is ideal.
Boston fern light conditions must change when sunlight is more intense in spring and summer. During the sunny time of year, the fern needs a semi-shady location, such as a window with a northern exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight from a window with southern or western exposure unless the window is protected by a sheer curtain, or if the window is shaded by a tall outdoor tree. Consider two important factors when you think about Boston fern indoor light any time of year. Boston fern won’t tolerate bright sunlight or total shade.
First, avoid intense, direct light, which can scorch the fronds. Secondly, keep in mind that without adequate sunlight, the plant won’t thrive and is likely to drop its leaves. Now that you know about Boston fern light conditions, you can consider the plant’s other needs, which aren’t complicated. Water the plant deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly before you return the plant to its drainage saucer. If the indoor air is dry, place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles to raise the humidity around the plant, but never let the pot sit in water.
Fertilize the fern every four to six weeks during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or use organic fish emulsion. Mist the plant occasionally to clean dust from the leaves, but don’t overdo; damp fronds are more susceptible to disease. Snip old fronds at soil level to generate healthy new growth.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The United States Department of Agriculture has created a map of numbered plant hardiness zones, and these zones represent areas of the United States having similar average low temperatures in winter. The lower the zone number, the harsher the winter. Roses typically grow in warm climates, and flower in the summer months, but some roses can grow in the hot tropical climate found in Florida, while others can grow in hardiness zones as low as 2, which have winter temperatures that drop as low as -50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Tropical Climate
The south of Florida has a tropical climate, enjoying long, hot humid summers. A number of rose species grow well in this climate, and are able to tolerate periods of drought that other other roses do not tolerate. Most of the roses that grow well in this climate originated in China, and came to the United States via Europe. The most common China rose grown in the hot dry conditions prevailing in south and central Florida is Old Blush, otherwise known as Parson's Pink China. Another variety of roses that flourish in hot dry climates are Noisettes, named after the Charleston nursery owner Philip Noisette who first cultivated these roses from seeds, and Bermuda roses, which come from the Atlantic island of Bermuda.
Wind And Low Humidity
The climate of Colorado is dry, particularly in the west of the state. Winters are dry and freezing, with much of Colorado rated as hardiness zones 4 or 5. This means that winter temperatures can get as low as -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Springtime can be windy. Some climbing roses grow well in this climate, and although you should plant them where they will not be fully exposed to the wind, whenever possible, many climbing roses will still grow and flower. The roses that grow best in the Colorado climate are Old Garden Roses and Canadian Explorer roses.
Harsh Winter
While roses do not bloom in winter, they are perennial shrubs that must survive the winter months so that they can bloom again the following year. Harsh winter frosts will kill most rose varieties, but some can withstand winters in hardiness zones as low as zone 2, where winter temperatures can get as low as -45 degrees Fahrenheit. Roses that are able to survive zone 2 include Blanc Double de Courbert, which produce white double-flowers, Assinboine, which produces medium-sized red blooms and Dart's Dash, a rose producing purple and red double-flowering blooms.
Temperate Climate
Temperate climates, such as those found in England, and much of the northern Mediterranean, and those found in the maritime parts of northern California and southern Oregon, are good for growing most rose species. Most of the modern roses found around the world originate from breeding done in continental Europe, England and the northern Mediterranean, using specimens imported from Asia, and especially from China. Most English and European garden roses, cultivated for temperate climate growth, do not do well in climates where the winters are harsh.
Tropical Climate
The south of Florida has a tropical climate, enjoying long, hot humid summers. A number of rose species grow well in this climate, and are able to tolerate periods of drought that other other roses do not tolerate. Most of the roses that grow well in this climate originated in China, and came to the United States via Europe. The most common China rose grown in the hot dry conditions prevailing in south and central Florida is Old Blush, otherwise known as Parson's Pink China. Another variety of roses that flourish in hot dry climates are Noisettes, named after the Charleston nursery owner Philip Noisette who first cultivated these roses from seeds, and Bermuda roses, which come from the Atlantic island of Bermuda.
Wind And Low Humidity
The climate of Colorado is dry, particularly in the west of the state. Winters are dry and freezing, with much of Colorado rated as hardiness zones 4 or 5. This means that winter temperatures can get as low as -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Springtime can be windy. Some climbing roses grow well in this climate, and although you should plant them where they will not be fully exposed to the wind, whenever possible, many climbing roses will still grow and flower. The roses that grow best in the Colorado climate are Old Garden Roses and Canadian Explorer roses.
Harsh Winter
While roses do not bloom in winter, they are perennial shrubs that must survive the winter months so that they can bloom again the following year. Harsh winter frosts will kill most rose varieties, but some can withstand winters in hardiness zones as low as zone 2, where winter temperatures can get as low as -45 degrees Fahrenheit. Roses that are able to survive zone 2 include Blanc Double de Courbert, which produce white double-flowers, Assinboine, which produces medium-sized red blooms and Dart's Dash, a rose producing purple and red double-flowering blooms.
Temperate Climate
Temperate climates, such as those found in England, and much of the northern Mediterranean, and those found in the maritime parts of northern California and southern Oregon, are good for growing most rose species. Most of the modern roses found around the world originate from breeding done in continental Europe, England and the northern Mediterranean, using specimens imported from Asia, and especially from China. Most English and European garden roses, cultivated for temperate climate growth, do not do well in climates where the winters are harsh.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) are popular houseplants and proper Boston fern care is essential to keeping this plant healthy. Learning how to take care of a Boston fern isn’t difficult, but it is specific. Below, we have listed a few care tips for a Boston fern so that you can provide everything your fern needs to be happy and beautiful.
How to Take Care of a Boston Fern
The first thing you need to do for proper Boston fern care is to make sure that it’s in the right kind of environment. Boston ferns need a cool place with high humidity and indirect light.
When you care for Boston fern plants indoors, it’s a good idea to provide additional humidity for them, especially in the winter. Most homes are rather dry, even more when heaters are running. For extra humidity care for Boston fern, try setting your fern’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. You can also try lightly misting your fern once or twice a week to help it get the humidity it needs. Another step in how to take care of a Boston fern is to make sure that the fern’s soil remains damp. Dry soil is one of the number one reasons that Boston ferns die. Check the soil daily and make sure to give it some water if the soil feels at all dry. Because Boston ferns tend to be planted in potting mixtures that are high in peat moss, it is a good idea to soak the pot of the Boston fern once a month or so to make sure the peat moss is fully hydrated. Be sure to let it drain thoroughly after this.
Boston fern leaves will turn yellow if the humidity is not high enough. If your Boston fern’s fronds are turning yellow, make sure to increase the humidity around the plant One of the lesser known care tips for a Boston fern is that they do not need much fertilizer. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant a few times a year. Boston ferns are susceptible to some pests, especially spider mites and mealybugs. If your plant becomes infested, make sure to treat the plant as quickly as possible to keep it healthy.
Boston fern care is as simple as making sure the plant is in the right environment. If you make sure that your fern is getting the right care for Boston fern plant, your plant will live for many years to come.
How to Take Care of a Boston Fern
The first thing you need to do for proper Boston fern care is to make sure that it’s in the right kind of environment. Boston ferns need a cool place with high humidity and indirect light.
When you care for Boston fern plants indoors, it’s a good idea to provide additional humidity for them, especially in the winter. Most homes are rather dry, even more when heaters are running. For extra humidity care for Boston fern, try setting your fern’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. You can also try lightly misting your fern once or twice a week to help it get the humidity it needs. Another step in how to take care of a Boston fern is to make sure that the fern’s soil remains damp. Dry soil is one of the number one reasons that Boston ferns die. Check the soil daily and make sure to give it some water if the soil feels at all dry. Because Boston ferns tend to be planted in potting mixtures that are high in peat moss, it is a good idea to soak the pot of the Boston fern once a month or so to make sure the peat moss is fully hydrated. Be sure to let it drain thoroughly after this.
Boston fern leaves will turn yellow if the humidity is not high enough. If your Boston fern’s fronds are turning yellow, make sure to increase the humidity around the plant One of the lesser known care tips for a Boston fern is that they do not need much fertilizer. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant a few times a year. Boston ferns are susceptible to some pests, especially spider mites and mealybugs. If your plant becomes infested, make sure to treat the plant as quickly as possible to keep it healthy.
Boston fern care is as simple as making sure the plant is in the right environment. If you make sure that your fern is getting the right care for Boston fern plant, your plant will live for many years to come.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The bird’s nest fern is a popular, attractive fern that defies the usual fern preconceptions. Instead of the feathery, segmented foliage usually associated with ferns, this plant has long, solid fronds that have a crinkly appearance around their edges. It gets its name from the crown, or center of the plant, that resembles a bird’s nest. It’s an epiphyte, which means it grows clinging to other objects, like trees, rather than in the ground. So how do you go about propagating one of these ferns? Keep reading to learn more about how to collect spores from ferns and bird’s nest fern spore propagation.
Collecting Spores from Bird’s Nest Ferns
Bird’s nest ferns reproduce through spores, which appear as little brown spots on the undersides of the fronds. When the spores on a frond are fat and a little fuzzy looking, remove a frond and place it in a paper bag. Over the course of the next few days, the spores should fall from the frond and collect in the bottom of the bag.
Bird’s Nest Fern Spore Propagation
Bird’s nest spore propagation works best in sphagnum moss, or peat moss that has been supplemented with dolomite. Place the spores on top of the growing medium, leaving them uncovered. Water the pot by placing it in a dish of water and let the water soak up from the bottom.
It’s important to keep your bird’s nest fern spores moist. You can cover your pot with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, or leave it uncovered and mist it daily. If you do cover the pot, remove the cover after 4 to 6 weeks. Keep the pot in a shady spot. If kept at a temperature between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.), the spores should germinate in about two weeks. The ferns grow best in low light and high humidity at a temperature of 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.).
Collecting Spores from Bird’s Nest Ferns
Bird’s nest ferns reproduce through spores, which appear as little brown spots on the undersides of the fronds. When the spores on a frond are fat and a little fuzzy looking, remove a frond and place it in a paper bag. Over the course of the next few days, the spores should fall from the frond and collect in the bottom of the bag.
Bird’s Nest Fern Spore Propagation
Bird’s nest spore propagation works best in sphagnum moss, or peat moss that has been supplemented with dolomite. Place the spores on top of the growing medium, leaving them uncovered. Water the pot by placing it in a dish of water and let the water soak up from the bottom.
It’s important to keep your bird’s nest fern spores moist. You can cover your pot with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, or leave it uncovered and mist it daily. If you do cover the pot, remove the cover after 4 to 6 weeks. Keep the pot in a shady spot. If kept at a temperature between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.), the spores should germinate in about two weeks. The ferns grow best in low light and high humidity at a temperature of 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.).
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Primroses (Primula polyanthus), an old-fashioned perennial popular in gardens for hundreds of years, is native to the Northern Hemisphere. Most primroses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. Over 400 species of the rosette-like plant grow both in the wild and cultivated in proper gardens, and one of the tricks gardeners learn early is that their primrose bed will last much longer if the plants are properly deadheaded.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Gardeners may plant Knock Out roses for their reputation as carefree shrubs, but these varieties do require care, including some pruning. In Tennessee, the best time to trim Knock Out roses will depend on what garden task you have in mind.
Winterizing
After the first hard freeze in fall is the best time to trim Knock Out roses to prepare them for winter, according to the Tennessee Rose Society. The society recommends trimming out dead wood and cutting living canes back by about 1/3.
Spring Pruning
Do an early spring pruning of Knock Out roses after the last hard frost, recommends the Conard-Pyle Co. website, removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the growth, cutting back to 12 to 18 inches. In Tennessee, the best time to complete spring trimming is by mid-March.
Summer Sprucing
Although Knock Out roses don't require dead-heading to keep blooming, the best time to trim off the spent blooms to spruce up your plants during the Tennessee summer is after each flush of blooms. When the petals have dropped and new buds are forming, your shrubs will look neater if you trim off the spent blooms before they form rose hips. At summer's end, you can leave some hips until winterizing, advises the Tennessee Rose Society.
Winterizing
After the first hard freeze in fall is the best time to trim Knock Out roses to prepare them for winter, according to the Tennessee Rose Society. The society recommends trimming out dead wood and cutting living canes back by about 1/3.
Spring Pruning
Do an early spring pruning of Knock Out roses after the last hard frost, recommends the Conard-Pyle Co. website, removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the growth, cutting back to 12 to 18 inches. In Tennessee, the best time to complete spring trimming is by mid-March.
Summer Sprucing
Although Knock Out roses don't require dead-heading to keep blooming, the best time to trim off the spent blooms to spruce up your plants during the Tennessee summer is after each flush of blooms. When the petals have dropped and new buds are forming, your shrubs will look neater if you trim off the spent blooms before they form rose hips. At summer's end, you can leave some hips until winterizing, advises the Tennessee Rose Society.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses, even the beautiful and hardy Knock Out, can sometimes have problems. While most of these issues will not kill the plant, they can cause leaf spots, yellowing, wilting and blight that may make it look like the rose is dying.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Often referred to as "Queen of the Garden," the rose is a perennial plant of the genus Rosa. There are more than 15,000 different species and hybrids cultivated around the world. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan signed legislation honoring the rose as the official flower of the United States.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Most plants are divided into two major categories, monocots and dicots. Both types of plants are leafy and flowering, with stems, root systems and reproduction via pollen. However, there are some major differences between the two types of plant families. Rose plants are in the dicot family.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Black spot, or diplocarpon rosae, is one of the most dreaded diseases of roses. Black spots form on leaves and stems causing them to yellow and drop. A serious infection can cause complete defoliation of the plant. Adopting a regular schedule of applying fungicidal sprays can greatly reduce the scope and damage the fungus can do to your roses. You do not have to buy expensive potions from the garden center. Just mix up one of these proven recipes from ingredients you may have on hand at home.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
Black Spot Spray Using Baking Soda
1 heaping tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. horticultural dormant oil or vegetable oil 1 tsp. insecticidal soap or dish soap 1 gallon water 1 gallon-sized jug with cap for mixing and storage 1 quart spray bottle
Cornell University led the research years ago for using common baking soda as an anti-fungal agent. They found that the addition of oil is essential to the effectiveness of the recipe. Many other versions of the original recipe add a little dish soap, or insecticidal soap, to help the solution cling to the leaves, and to help control insect pests. If you want to keep the recipe organic, use dish soap instead of insecticidal soap.
Black Spot Spray Using Milk
1 cup of milk, any type 2 cups of water 1 quart spray bottle
Milk is a folk home-remedy for black spot on roses, but modern testing has proved it is an effective deterrent for fungus. The downside to using it is that it can get smelly, when applied too thickly, from decomposition of the milk fats.
Black Spot Spray with Mouthwash
1 tsp. vegetable oil 1 gallon water 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. unflavored antiseptic mouthwash, such as Listerine 1 tsp. liquid dish soap 1 ½ tsp .baking soda 1 quart spray bottle
Mouthwash is formulated to retard the growth of bacteria and fungus in the mouth. When combined with the other known fungicides like baking soda and vinegar, it becomes a powerful weapon in your arsenal against black spot.
Instructions for Making the Recipes and Applying Fungicidal Sprays for Black Spot
Combine all ingredients in the gallon-sized jug and secure the cap. Shake vigorously until ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Pour enough of the mixture from the gallon jug into the spray bottle to fill it up. Spray the roses weekly, in the morning, wetting them completely with the spray.
Tips for Battling Black Spot on Roses
Water roses well a day or two in advance of spray treatment. Start spraying in spring, when the leaves first emerge, and continue until frost. Reapply after rain. Avoid spraying in the heat of the day or at night. Remove and destroy any leaves or stems that show signs of black spot. Buy disease resistant varieties of roses. Do not allow plants to become crowded. Decreased air circulation will encourage the formation of black spot. Keep them pruned and trimmed for optimal air circulation.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The Helxine soleirolii is a low growing plant often found in terrariums or bottle gardens. Usually referred to as the baby’s tear plant, it may also be listed under other common names such as Corsican curse, Corsican carpet plant, Irish moss (not to be confused with Sagina Irish moss) and mind-your-own-business. Baby’s tear care is easy and this houseplant will provide additional interest to the home.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The arrowhead plant goes by numerous names, including arrowhead vine, American evergreen, five fingers, and nephthytis. Although it may be grown outdoors in some regions, the arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) is typically grown as a houseplant. The arrowhead plant can be grown alone or in a mixed planting for additional interest. As the plant ages, however, it will begin to vine; therefore, it may be a good idea to grow the arrowhead plant in a hanging basket. Likewise, the plant can be trained on a pole or trellis for support.
Arrowhead Plant Care
Overall, arrowhead plant care is quite easy. The arrowhead plant should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Although the plant enjoys some moisture, it should not be kept too wet, which may lead to root rot. It prefers temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16 and 24 C.) but can tolerate a wider range, if necessary. Proper arrowhead plant care requires humid conditions, especially during dry winter months. Mist the plant daily or place its container on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase humidity for optimal growth. The arrowhead plant can be fertilized monthly with a balanced fertilizer. The leaves change shape as the plant matures, beginning as an arrowhead shape, and then changing into three to five finger-like sections. Leaves are generally green in color but there are many varieties that include variegated leaves of differing shades. The heavily variegated varieties require bright, filtered light. Average light is the norm for solid green varieties or those with less variegation. Keep them away from direct sunlight, as this will cause the arrowhead plant to burn or bleach. The arrowhead plant will tolerate low light levels on occasion.
Arrowhead Plant Root Structure
The arrowhead plant root structure is quite extensive, spreading and growing to the point of becoming invasive in the wild. Even within a contained environment, because of arrowhead plant root structure, the plant should be repotted every second spring. This plant can also be propagated through division, cuttings (which can be rooted easily in water), and air layering. Gloves should be worn when working with the arrowhead plant, as its sap can be irritating to sensitive individuals.
If the arrowhead-shaped foliage is preferred, simply cut off the climbing stems as they develop. The plant will take on a bushier appearance, with less climbing, and the leaves will remain more arrow shaped. Really, with a little diligence, arrowhead plant care is simple. Taking proper care of your arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) will bring you many rewards.
Arrowhead Plant Care
Overall, arrowhead plant care is quite easy. The arrowhead plant should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Although the plant enjoys some moisture, it should not be kept too wet, which may lead to root rot. It prefers temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16 and 24 C.) but can tolerate a wider range, if necessary. Proper arrowhead plant care requires humid conditions, especially during dry winter months. Mist the plant daily or place its container on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase humidity for optimal growth. The arrowhead plant can be fertilized monthly with a balanced fertilizer. The leaves change shape as the plant matures, beginning as an arrowhead shape, and then changing into three to five finger-like sections. Leaves are generally green in color but there are many varieties that include variegated leaves of differing shades. The heavily variegated varieties require bright, filtered light. Average light is the norm for solid green varieties or those with less variegation. Keep them away from direct sunlight, as this will cause the arrowhead plant to burn or bleach. The arrowhead plant will tolerate low light levels on occasion.
Arrowhead Plant Root Structure
The arrowhead plant root structure is quite extensive, spreading and growing to the point of becoming invasive in the wild. Even within a contained environment, because of arrowhead plant root structure, the plant should be repotted every second spring. This plant can also be propagated through division, cuttings (which can be rooted easily in water), and air layering. Gloves should be worn when working with the arrowhead plant, as its sap can be irritating to sensitive individuals.
If the arrowhead-shaped foliage is preferred, simply cut off the climbing stems as they develop. The plant will take on a bushier appearance, with less climbing, and the leaves will remain more arrow shaped. Really, with a little diligence, arrowhead plant care is simple. Taking proper care of your arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) will bring you many rewards.
0
1
