文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miniature potted roses accent a home's interior with beautiful rose blooms. Caring for mini roses indoors is similar to caring for full-size roses outdoors, only with less work. Indoors, the plant will typically be less prone to pests, and you won't have to worry about weather damage. Less care doesn't mean no care, of course. Keeping certain things in mind will help you maintain your mini roses.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Your brilliant indoor croton plant, the one you admire and prize, is now dropping leaves like crazy. Don’t panic. Leaf drop on croton plants can be expected any time the plant is stressed or out of balance. You just need to get to know your croton and how to give croton what it needs to thrive. Read on to learn more about why croton leaves fall off.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The time to plant, and which variety of rose will succeed in your Ohio rose garden, depends on whether you live in north or south Ohio. Hybrid tea roses, for instance, require winter protection in northern Ohio, but not in the south. The time to prune a rose bush is the same, though, for all Ohio gardeners.
Significance
Rose bushes require pruning for a number of reasons, chief among them is to clear out overgrowth to allow for better air circulation within the plant. Roses are susceptible to fungal diseases that thrive when air circulation within the plant is impeded.
The Facts
Ask any number of rosarians how to prune a rose bush and you will get that many different answers. There is no one "right" way to prune. At the least, prune to thin the growth in the middle of the plant. Cut branches that cross over one another and prune to keep the plant to the size you desire.
Timing
Prime rose pruning times in Ohio gardens are during March and into early April. Heirloom roses, also known as old garden roses, should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming.
Significance
Rose bushes require pruning for a number of reasons, chief among them is to clear out overgrowth to allow for better air circulation within the plant. Roses are susceptible to fungal diseases that thrive when air circulation within the plant is impeded.
The Facts
Ask any number of rosarians how to prune a rose bush and you will get that many different answers. There is no one "right" way to prune. At the least, prune to thin the growth in the middle of the plant. Cut branches that cross over one another and prune to keep the plant to the size you desire.
Timing
Prime rose pruning times in Ohio gardens are during March and into early April. Heirloom roses, also known as old garden roses, should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
A Lady Banks rose (Rosa banksia) produces cascades of yellow or white flower clusters. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. This wild rose looks best when allowed to grow in its natural form, but infrequent pruning can help keep it in bounds while still ensuring ample flowering.
Ready Your Shears
Two types of shears are needed to prune a Lady Banks rose. Basic loppers handle most pruning needs, but you will need smaller hand pruners or bypass shears for shaping the bush. Wipe the shear blades with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them before you prune. If you cut out diseased wood or are moving between plants, wipe the shears again. Some varieties of Lady Banks roses have thorny stems, so wear leather gardening gloves and long sleeves if you are trimming a thorned variety.
Timing Is Everything
Lady Banks roses flower on 2- or 3-year-old canes, so they don't require annual pruning except to remove damaged wood. Pruning too frequently will remove the flowering canes so there are no blooms and only foliage. These roses only flower once a year in late spring or early summer. Prune Lady Banks immediately after this annual flowering, before the plant begins to set new buds for the following year.
Thinning It Out
Thinning allows for air circulation within the rose bush, which improves flowering and minimizes disease concerns. Yellow and brown canes are completely dead, so remove these at ground level using the loppers. You can also remove the tallest and thickest canes at ground level to open up the center of the plant for air circulation. Pruning these out also lets in more light, so the smaller canes can leaf out and set flower buds. Also, remove any damaged canes, either cutting them off at ground level or cutting them back to the nearest outward facing bud or leaf on healthy wood.
Shaping Up
Light shaping every two years helps keep the sprawling, climbing canes of the Lady Banks rose under control, but you don't want to over prune and lose the plant's natural form. Begin by cutting back any overgrown canes, especially those that extend over walkways, or are wrapping around structures or tree branches. Cut these back to a bud or leaf at the desired cane length using the bypass shears. You can also prune back dull green canes to manage their height, but don't prune back the bright green canes because these are your future flowering stems. After pruning, remove the clippings from the bed, and compost or dispose of them.
Ready Your Shears
Two types of shears are needed to prune a Lady Banks rose. Basic loppers handle most pruning needs, but you will need smaller hand pruners or bypass shears for shaping the bush. Wipe the shear blades with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them before you prune. If you cut out diseased wood or are moving between plants, wipe the shears again. Some varieties of Lady Banks roses have thorny stems, so wear leather gardening gloves and long sleeves if you are trimming a thorned variety.
Timing Is Everything
Lady Banks roses flower on 2- or 3-year-old canes, so they don't require annual pruning except to remove damaged wood. Pruning too frequently will remove the flowering canes so there are no blooms and only foliage. These roses only flower once a year in late spring or early summer. Prune Lady Banks immediately after this annual flowering, before the plant begins to set new buds for the following year.
Thinning It Out
Thinning allows for air circulation within the rose bush, which improves flowering and minimizes disease concerns. Yellow and brown canes are completely dead, so remove these at ground level using the loppers. You can also remove the tallest and thickest canes at ground level to open up the center of the plant for air circulation. Pruning these out also lets in more light, so the smaller canes can leaf out and set flower buds. Also, remove any damaged canes, either cutting them off at ground level or cutting them back to the nearest outward facing bud or leaf on healthy wood.
Shaping Up
Light shaping every two years helps keep the sprawling, climbing canes of the Lady Banks rose under control, but you don't want to over prune and lose the plant's natural form. Begin by cutting back any overgrown canes, especially those that extend over walkways, or are wrapping around structures or tree branches. Cut these back to a bud or leaf at the desired cane length using the bypass shears. You can also prune back dull green canes to manage their height, but don't prune back the bright green canes because these are your future flowering stems. After pruning, remove the clippings from the bed, and compost or dispose of them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Did you know that the same plant that grows coffee beans also makes a great houseplant? Considered to be among the easiest and hardiest of houseplants, coffee plant is great for both experienced or beginner gardeners. Not only is coffee plant care easy, but the plant itself is lovely and makes a wonderful addition to the home.
How to Grow Coffee Plant
Coffee plants prefer bright, but indirect, light. This means that they should be placed near a window but not directly in the window itself. They also cannot take temperatures below freezing and will not do well in temperatures that stay consistently below 65 F. (18 C.). Keep them away from drafts in the winter.
When growing coffee plants, the soil needs to stay moist, but not soaking wet. Also, make sure that both the soil and the pot your coffee plant is growing in has good drainage. The humidity around the plant will need to stay high as well. Setting your coffee plant on a water-filled pebble tray will help with humidity. Like many houseplants, a coffee plant will need less water in the winter than in the summer.
Your coffee plant care routine can also include light fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer once every to two three months in the spring and summer. Keep in mind that a happy coffee plant can grow up to 6 feet tall. Therefore, provide enough space for the plant or make pruning a regular part of caring for your coffee plant. If you choose to prune your coffee plant, the best time is early spring.
Many people wonder if they will actually be able to harvest coffee beans when growing coffee plants. If the coffee plant is grown in ideal conditions indoors, it will eventually flower when it matures, which can take three to five years. Even in the best of conditions, however, you can only expect a few flowers to form, but, if you hand pollinate them, they will produce the berries that contain coffee beans. You may not get enough to brew a whole pot of coffee, but you may get enough to give roasting a few coffee beans a fun try.
How to Grow Coffee Plant
Coffee plants prefer bright, but indirect, light. This means that they should be placed near a window but not directly in the window itself. They also cannot take temperatures below freezing and will not do well in temperatures that stay consistently below 65 F. (18 C.). Keep them away from drafts in the winter.
When growing coffee plants, the soil needs to stay moist, but not soaking wet. Also, make sure that both the soil and the pot your coffee plant is growing in has good drainage. The humidity around the plant will need to stay high as well. Setting your coffee plant on a water-filled pebble tray will help with humidity. Like many houseplants, a coffee plant will need less water in the winter than in the summer.
Your coffee plant care routine can also include light fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer once every to two three months in the spring and summer. Keep in mind that a happy coffee plant can grow up to 6 feet tall. Therefore, provide enough space for the plant or make pruning a regular part of caring for your coffee plant. If you choose to prune your coffee plant, the best time is early spring.
Many people wonder if they will actually be able to harvest coffee beans when growing coffee plants. If the coffee plant is grown in ideal conditions indoors, it will eventually flower when it matures, which can take three to five years. Even in the best of conditions, however, you can only expect a few flowers to form, but, if you hand pollinate them, they will produce the berries that contain coffee beans. You may not get enough to brew a whole pot of coffee, but you may get enough to give roasting a few coffee beans a fun try.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Coffee plants produce not only the all important coffee bean, but they make terrific houseplants too. In their native tropical habitat, coffee plants grow up to 15 feet or more, so pruning a coffee plant is integral when growing them indoors.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
While most houseplants require a bit of effort in providing appropriate growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity, etc.), growing Chinese evergreens can make even the novice indoor gardener look like an expert. This tropical foliage plant is one of the most durable houseplants you can grow, tolerating poor light, dry air and drought.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), also known as iron plant and ballroom plant, is an extremely hardy houseplant and a perennial favorite in some regions. Growing cast iron plants is especially favored by those who don’t have a lot of time for plant care, as this species can survive even the most extreme conditions where other plants would shrivel and die, which makes cast iron plant care a snap. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a cast iron plant indoors or using cast iron plants in the landscape.
How to Grow a Cast Iron Plant Indoors
Growing cast iron indoors is extremely easy and rewarding. This China native is a member of the lily family. The plant has small purple flowers that only appear near the soil surface and are hidden in its foliage. For what this plant may lack in glitz, however, it makes up for in robust, healthy dark green leaves. The cast iron plant grows well in low light indoors and is not finicky about regular water either. Although a slow grower, this reliable performer will live for many years, reaching a mature height of around 2 feet.
Growing Cast Iron Plants Outdoors
Various cast iron cultivars succeed where other vegetation will not. Using cast iron plant in the landscape is common as a ground cover under trees where other plants fail to thrive and in other hard-to-grow areas. You can also use is as a background plant in your flower bed or along with azaleas for a nice in-between filler plant.
Cast Iron Plant Care
Although the cast iron plant will tolerate extreme conditions, it’s always a good idea to provide plenty of water, especially during very dry periods. This plant also responds well to organic soil and an annual dose of all-purpose fertilizer. Propagate cast iron plants by division. Although new plants are slow to grow, with some patience and time, the new plant will thrive. This hardy plant thrives in very hot, dry summers and isn’t easily damaged by cold winters. Insects seem to leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease of any kind. When you want a plant with such ease of care and flexibility or when all else fails, give this easy-care plant a try. Grow cast iron indoors or try your hand at using cast iron plant in the landscape for a unique look.
How to Grow a Cast Iron Plant Indoors
Growing cast iron indoors is extremely easy and rewarding. This China native is a member of the lily family. The plant has small purple flowers that only appear near the soil surface and are hidden in its foliage. For what this plant may lack in glitz, however, it makes up for in robust, healthy dark green leaves. The cast iron plant grows well in low light indoors and is not finicky about regular water either. Although a slow grower, this reliable performer will live for many years, reaching a mature height of around 2 feet.
Growing Cast Iron Plants Outdoors
Various cast iron cultivars succeed where other vegetation will not. Using cast iron plant in the landscape is common as a ground cover under trees where other plants fail to thrive and in other hard-to-grow areas. You can also use is as a background plant in your flower bed or along with azaleas for a nice in-between filler plant.
Cast Iron Plant Care
Although the cast iron plant will tolerate extreme conditions, it’s always a good idea to provide plenty of water, especially during very dry periods. This plant also responds well to organic soil and an annual dose of all-purpose fertilizer. Propagate cast iron plants by division. Although new plants are slow to grow, with some patience and time, the new plant will thrive. This hardy plant thrives in very hot, dry summers and isn’t easily damaged by cold winters. Insects seem to leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease of any kind. When you want a plant with such ease of care and flexibility or when all else fails, give this easy-care plant a try. Grow cast iron indoors or try your hand at using cast iron plant in the landscape for a unique look.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
I love a plant with a descriptive and evocative name. Cardboard palm plant (Zamia furfuracea) is one of those ancient plants with a lot of character that can grow inside or outside depending upon your gardening zone. What is a Zamia cardboard palm? In fact, it isn’t a palm at all but a cycad — like the sago palm plant. Knowing how to grow Zamia palms starts with knowing your USDA planting zone. This little guy is not winter hardy in the majority of North American regions, but it makes an excellent container or houseplant anywhere. Grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9 to 11 year round.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Calceolaria’s nickname — pocketbook plant — is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. You’ll find Calceolaria houseplants for sale in garden centers from Valentine’s Day until the end of April in the United States. Growing pocketbook plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
How to Grow Calceolaria Indoors
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Calceolaria. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Pocketbook plant care works best when you try to imitate its native home. Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants. Pocketbook plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again. Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Pocketbook Plant Care Outdoors
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart.
Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
How to Grow Calceolaria Indoors
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Calceolaria. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Pocketbook plant care works best when you try to imitate its native home. Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants. Pocketbook plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again. Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Pocketbook Plant Care Outdoors
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart.
Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Aechmea fasciata, the urn plant bromeliad, comes to us from the South American rainforests. It is an epiphyte, commonly called an air plant, and in the wild it grows on other plants where it receives moisture from heavy rains and nutrients from decaying debris around its roots. This is important to urn plant care in your home as you will try to mimic its natural conditions.
Tips for Urn Plant Care
In the rainforests, rainwater gathers in the stiff rosette of leaves that forms the urn. Plant care in the home consists of keeping the center filled with water at all times. For a healthy plant, the water should be emptied on refilled once a week to prevent stagnation. Watch out for dry brown edges of the leaves. It’s a sign of dehydration in your urn plant. Care should also be taken with the soil. Keep it moist, but don’t overwater. Soggy soil will cause rot at the base of your urn plant bromeliad.
You can fertilize your urn plant bromeliad by misting with a weak foliar spray or by adding a half strength solution to the water at its center once a month. If you live in a hardiness zone of 10b or 11, you can grow urn plants outside as long as you keep them well watered. They aren’t fussy about soil when grown outdoors, but caring for an urn plant indoor is a bit different. Once again, look at how they grow in the wild. Silt, decaying debris and bits of leaf and bark cling to and build up around the roots of the epiphyte. In your chosen pot at home, you should try to duplicate this soft, well aerated soil. Orchid potting mix is ideal for this or, if you prefer to mix your own, mix peat moss, perlite and finely shredded pine bark in equal parts. You need a soil that remains light and well aerated so the roots can easily spread. Urn plants prefer bright light, but not direct sun, and can suffer scorched leaves if moved too quickly from indoors to out during the summer months. They do best in temperatures between 65 and 75 F.(12-24 C.), although they can tolerate higher with regular misting.
How to Get an Urn Plant to Bloom
Almost everyone who tries to grow urn plants wants them to bloom. Those colorful, long lasting bracts rising from the center of the plant are the ultimate reward in caring for an urn plant. A plant must be at least three years old before it produces a flower stem. One of the most common complaints of gardeners is the failure of bracts to grow. Urn plants need good light and plenty of it for bract production. If light isn’t the problem, then it may be a lack of ethylene gas. To encourage blooming, try placing a quartered apple on top of the soil and using a plastic bag to cover both pot and urn plant.
Bromeliad plants bloom only once before they die, but don’t despair. They leave several lovely gifts behind. Once the bract turns brown, continue caring for your urn plant as before even as the leaves turn brown and die. Beneath the dying leaves you’ll find two or more “pups” — baby urn plants. Allow these pups to grown in place until they are 6 inches tall which usually takes five or six months, and then transfer them to pots of their own.
Tips for Urn Plant Care
In the rainforests, rainwater gathers in the stiff rosette of leaves that forms the urn. Plant care in the home consists of keeping the center filled with water at all times. For a healthy plant, the water should be emptied on refilled once a week to prevent stagnation. Watch out for dry brown edges of the leaves. It’s a sign of dehydration in your urn plant. Care should also be taken with the soil. Keep it moist, but don’t overwater. Soggy soil will cause rot at the base of your urn plant bromeliad.
You can fertilize your urn plant bromeliad by misting with a weak foliar spray or by adding a half strength solution to the water at its center once a month. If you live in a hardiness zone of 10b or 11, you can grow urn plants outside as long as you keep them well watered. They aren’t fussy about soil when grown outdoors, but caring for an urn plant indoor is a bit different. Once again, look at how they grow in the wild. Silt, decaying debris and bits of leaf and bark cling to and build up around the roots of the epiphyte. In your chosen pot at home, you should try to duplicate this soft, well aerated soil. Orchid potting mix is ideal for this or, if you prefer to mix your own, mix peat moss, perlite and finely shredded pine bark in equal parts. You need a soil that remains light and well aerated so the roots can easily spread. Urn plants prefer bright light, but not direct sun, and can suffer scorched leaves if moved too quickly from indoors to out during the summer months. They do best in temperatures between 65 and 75 F.(12-24 C.), although they can tolerate higher with regular misting.
How to Get an Urn Plant to Bloom
Almost everyone who tries to grow urn plants wants them to bloom. Those colorful, long lasting bracts rising from the center of the plant are the ultimate reward in caring for an urn plant. A plant must be at least three years old before it produces a flower stem. One of the most common complaints of gardeners is the failure of bracts to grow. Urn plants need good light and plenty of it for bract production. If light isn’t the problem, then it may be a lack of ethylene gas. To encourage blooming, try placing a quartered apple on top of the soil and using a plastic bag to cover both pot and urn plant.
Bromeliad plants bloom only once before they die, but don’t despair. They leave several lovely gifts behind. Once the bract turns brown, continue caring for your urn plant as before even as the leaves turn brown and die. Beneath the dying leaves you’ll find two or more “pups” — baby urn plants. Allow these pups to grown in place until they are 6 inches tall which usually takes five or six months, and then transfer them to pots of their own.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The variegated pineapple plant is grown for its foliage, not for its fruit. The gorgeous bright red, green and cream striped leaves are held rigidly off a low stem. Their bright fruit is attractive but rather bitter. The plants make lovely and interesting houseplants, or warm season potted outdoor plants. The pineapple flowering houseplant is a bromeliad and requires similar care. Care for the variegated pineapple is the same as an edible pineapple, but don’t expect fruiting overnight. Both types can take up to five years to produce fruit.
Pineapple Bromeliad Varieties
Bromeliads are a family of sometimes stemless, sometimes epiphytic plants. They may also be grown in an almost soil-free environment made up of other materials such as sand, peat and bark. Bromeliads are common in warm areas with high humidity. There are hundreds of varieties of pineapple. Not all of them produce a yellow fleshed fruit armored in green. There are also red and blue varieties. The best pineapple bromeliad varieties for home growers are the miniature types. These plants are easier to keep to container size, so you can move them in and protect them in case of freezing weather.
Variegated Pineapple Plant
Pineapples are only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11. These warm season plants can be grown inside as striking houseplants. The variegated form is colorful and lively, well suited for a partially sunny room. Growing variegated pineapples in full sun is not recommended as the best color comes in lower light areas. The plant is a novelty plant and not as easy to find as the regular pineapple bromeliad varieties. Mature plants can produce a flower within a year of planting. To start your own pineapple flowering houseplant, harvest a fruit and cut the top off. Let the top dry on the counter for a day or two. Plant the base in a mixture of orchid bark and sand that is lightly moist. Keep somewhat moist until the top roots, taking care not to overwater, which will make the fruit top rot. You can also remove any offsets and plant them. Let these root and you will soon be growing variegated pineapples to share with friends and family.
Care for Variegated Pineapple
Pineapples require medium light, soil low in organic amendments and moderate moisture. The plant can tolerate short periods of drought with no ill effects. They can be prone to several pests, including aphids, whitefly and scale. Rinse off soft bodied pests and use a horticultural soap to combat the others. Fertilize every two weeks in spring until dormancy in fall. Use a diluted liquid plant fertilizer. Water thoroughly each time, but allow the surface of the soil to dry out before applying more water. Variegated pineapple plant must be kept where temperatures are between 65 and 82 F. (50 and 28 C.) with high humidity for best growth. Mimic the growing conditions of a Hawaiian island and you are guaranteed success with your pineapple flowering houseplant!
Pineapple Bromeliad Varieties
Bromeliads are a family of sometimes stemless, sometimes epiphytic plants. They may also be grown in an almost soil-free environment made up of other materials such as sand, peat and bark. Bromeliads are common in warm areas with high humidity. There are hundreds of varieties of pineapple. Not all of them produce a yellow fleshed fruit armored in green. There are also red and blue varieties. The best pineapple bromeliad varieties for home growers are the miniature types. These plants are easier to keep to container size, so you can move them in and protect them in case of freezing weather.
Variegated Pineapple Plant
Pineapples are only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11. These warm season plants can be grown inside as striking houseplants. The variegated form is colorful and lively, well suited for a partially sunny room. Growing variegated pineapples in full sun is not recommended as the best color comes in lower light areas. The plant is a novelty plant and not as easy to find as the regular pineapple bromeliad varieties. Mature plants can produce a flower within a year of planting. To start your own pineapple flowering houseplant, harvest a fruit and cut the top off. Let the top dry on the counter for a day or two. Plant the base in a mixture of orchid bark and sand that is lightly moist. Keep somewhat moist until the top roots, taking care not to overwater, which will make the fruit top rot. You can also remove any offsets and plant them. Let these root and you will soon be growing variegated pineapples to share with friends and family.
Care for Variegated Pineapple
Pineapples require medium light, soil low in organic amendments and moderate moisture. The plant can tolerate short periods of drought with no ill effects. They can be prone to several pests, including aphids, whitefly and scale. Rinse off soft bodied pests and use a horticultural soap to combat the others. Fertilize every two weeks in spring until dormancy in fall. Use a diluted liquid plant fertilizer. Water thoroughly each time, but allow the surface of the soil to dry out before applying more water. Variegated pineapple plant must be kept where temperatures are between 65 and 82 F. (50 and 28 C.) with high humidity for best growth. Mimic the growing conditions of a Hawaiian island and you are guaranteed success with your pineapple flowering houseplant!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Low maintenance plants are hard to find. Tillandsias offer unique form, ease of care and just a fun way to bring the outdoors in to your home. Tillandsia sky plant (Tillandsia ionantha) is a superior specimen which doesn’t require traditional pot and soil combinations. This member of the Bromeliad family will grow epiphytically on a variety of organic surfaces. Learn how to grow a Tillandsia for a family-friendly plant that will make you look differently at plant presentation and care.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
A new owner of Tillandsia may wonder “can you water an air plant too much?” How often to mist air plants depends upon the type, the situation and the size of the plant as well as the environment. There are three main ways to keep your air plant moist. Once you know all three, you can decide which way will work best for your plant. This article will tell you the methods and how often to mist air plants. Then you will be on your way to healthy, happy Tillandsia of any variety.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fairly common houseplants with a tropical feel and an unusual, fun growth form. There are over 50 varieties of Hechtia bromeliads, most of which are native to Mexico. What is Hechtia? Hechtia is a terrestrial plant with characteristic rosette form of most bromeliads. One of the more interesting pieces of Hechtia plant info is that is has traits similar to succulents but is not a true succulent. However, Hechtia are drought tolerant and have amazing cold resistance for warm region plants.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
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