文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Lobelia, marked by intense colors and masses of small, tubular blooms, provides interest to the garden all summer. Annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus), grown as a perennial in the warm climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10, is a bushy, low-growing plant often used in flower beds and hanging baskets. Perennial varieties, which include cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) and lobelia speciosa (Lobelia x speciosa), are tall, upright plants that reach heights of up to 4 feet. They are hardy perennials that grow in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Watering Lobelia
Annual lobelia requires frequent watering during the growing season because the short roots remain near the surface. Water slowly, using a garden hose or drip system, to saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry before watering again, as poorly drained, soggy soil may create root rot or other fungal diseases. Perennial varieties benefit from regular watering the first year. Thereafter, the plants are drought-tolerant, and water is necessary only during periods of hot, dry weather.
Fertilize to Promote Healthy Blooms
Annual and perennial lobelia varieties benefit from application of a dry, 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer at planting time. Dig the fertilizer into the ground at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet of planting space. Repeat every spring for perennial varieties. Although a yearly feeding is sufficient for perennials, annual lobelia requires frequent feeding to sustain energy for blooming throughout the season. Use a liquid fertilizer with a ratio such as 12-4-8, mixed at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water every two to three weeks. Always apply fertilizer to damp soil to prevent damage to the plant; then water thoroughly to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots.
Maintaining Healthy Plants
Pinch back the tips of young annual and perennial lobelia plants by 1/2 to 1 inch to create full, bushy plants. Thereafter, shear annual lobelia by about half its height if it becomes tired and leggy in midsummer. To prevent spread of disease organisms, disinfect shears and other cutting tools by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after each use. You can also sanitize the blades with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. Deadhead perennial varieties to keep the plants looking their best and promote development of flowers throughout the growing season. To deadhead, pinch off wilted blooms along with the stem down to the next branch or leaf. Perennial and annual varieties benefit from 2 to 3 inches of mulch to keep the roots cool and moist during the growing season. Keep a layer of mulch around perennial varieties to protect the roots during the winter. Divide perennial lobelia every two to three years to keep the plant from becoming crowded.
Special Considerations
Lobelia is a pest-resistant plant; however, perennial varieties may be bothered by slugs and snails. If the infestation is light, pick the pests off by hand and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Otherwise, apply slug bait at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square yard of planting area. Keep the container tightly closed, and store it in a locked place where it is inaccessible to children and pets. Plant lobelia with care because some varieties, including Lobelia cardinalis, are poisonous if eaten in large quantities.
Watering Lobelia
Annual lobelia requires frequent watering during the growing season because the short roots remain near the surface. Water slowly, using a garden hose or drip system, to saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry before watering again, as poorly drained, soggy soil may create root rot or other fungal diseases. Perennial varieties benefit from regular watering the first year. Thereafter, the plants are drought-tolerant, and water is necessary only during periods of hot, dry weather.
Fertilize to Promote Healthy Blooms
Annual and perennial lobelia varieties benefit from application of a dry, 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer at planting time. Dig the fertilizer into the ground at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet of planting space. Repeat every spring for perennial varieties. Although a yearly feeding is sufficient for perennials, annual lobelia requires frequent feeding to sustain energy for blooming throughout the season. Use a liquid fertilizer with a ratio such as 12-4-8, mixed at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water every two to three weeks. Always apply fertilizer to damp soil to prevent damage to the plant; then water thoroughly to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots.
Maintaining Healthy Plants
Pinch back the tips of young annual and perennial lobelia plants by 1/2 to 1 inch to create full, bushy plants. Thereafter, shear annual lobelia by about half its height if it becomes tired and leggy in midsummer. To prevent spread of disease organisms, disinfect shears and other cutting tools by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after each use. You can also sanitize the blades with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. Deadhead perennial varieties to keep the plants looking their best and promote development of flowers throughout the growing season. To deadhead, pinch off wilted blooms along with the stem down to the next branch or leaf. Perennial and annual varieties benefit from 2 to 3 inches of mulch to keep the roots cool and moist during the growing season. Keep a layer of mulch around perennial varieties to protect the roots during the winter. Divide perennial lobelia every two to three years to keep the plant from becoming crowded.
Special Considerations
Lobelia is a pest-resistant plant; however, perennial varieties may be bothered by slugs and snails. If the infestation is light, pick the pests off by hand and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Otherwise, apply slug bait at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square yard of planting area. Keep the container tightly closed, and store it in a locked place where it is inaccessible to children and pets. Plant lobelia with care because some varieties, including Lobelia cardinalis, are poisonous if eaten in large quantities.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
It's always fun as well as very interesting to find growing in the wild a plant that we buy when back at home in order to have it in the gardens! Aubrieta is one of our favourites. It manages to bloom early, even in gardens in the UK, and this is because, in the wild, it grows high up in the mountains and is used to inhospitable conditions like the English spring, which punishes so many of the other early-flowering plants.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful muve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Etymology
Aubrieta, the genus name, honours the 17th century French artist Claude Aubriet, who had held the post of Royal Botanical Painter at the French Royal Garden.
The specific epithet deltoidea means triangular (shaped like a delta).
In the past the common name given to this flower was Aubretia, but nowadays Aubrieta, spelt exactly as in the genus name, is more commonly used.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful muve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Etymology
Aubrieta, the genus name, honours the 17th century French artist Claude Aubriet, who had held the post of Royal Botanical Painter at the French Royal Garden.
The specific epithet deltoidea means triangular (shaped like a delta).
In the past the common name given to this flower was Aubretia, but nowadays Aubrieta, spelt exactly as in the genus name, is more commonly used.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This lovely sunflower forms largeattractive clumps up to a metre in height. The easiest way to distinguish Arrowleaf Balsamroot from other sunflowers is by the silvery-green arrow-head-shaped leaves.
Distribution
The range of the plant extends from British Columbia and south to Colorado and central California. It is one of many sunflowers found in the Rocky Mountains.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Arrowleaf Balsamroot grows on well-drained soil in open woodland sites exposed to plenty of sunshine. It blooms from late May to July and grows
Uses
American Indians used the seeds to make a kind of flour called pinole.
Etymology
Balsamorhiza, the genus name, means 'balsam root'. The specific epithet sagittata means 'arrow shaped' - a reference to the leaves of this plant, which are shaped like arrowheads.
Distribution
The range of the plant extends from British Columbia and south to Colorado and central California. It is one of many sunflowers found in the Rocky Mountains.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Arrowleaf Balsamroot grows on well-drained soil in open woodland sites exposed to plenty of sunshine. It blooms from late May to July and grows
Uses
American Indians used the seeds to make a kind of flour called pinole.
Etymology
Balsamorhiza, the genus name, means 'balsam root'. The specific epithet sagittata means 'arrow shaped' - a reference to the leaves of this plant, which are shaped like arrowheads.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This relative of Deadly Nightshade is a poisonous plant. According to The Plant List the old name Solanum sodomaeum (attributed to Carl Linnaeus) is considered unresolved, and so the scientific name Solanum linnaeum is accepted as the preferred name of this species.
Identification
This perennial plant has attractive flowers each with five purple petals and small yellow stigmas, but it also has vicious thorns. The previous year's fruits can sometimes be seen ripening while the new season's flowers are attracting insect pollinators. The fruits are typically 3cm to 5cm across and look very much like unripe tomatoes; they appear in late summer; turning gradually from green to bright yellow and eventually black. The fruits are deadly poisonous and should never be eaten.
Distribution
Apple of Sodom, a native of southern Africa, is found occasionally in many Mediterranean countries and is considered a seriously invasive alien in parts of Australia and Newzealand.
Identification
This perennial plant has attractive flowers each with five purple petals and small yellow stigmas, but it also has vicious thorns. The previous year's fruits can sometimes be seen ripening while the new season's flowers are attracting insect pollinators. The fruits are typically 3cm to 5cm across and look very much like unripe tomatoes; they appear in late summer; turning gradually from green to bright yellow and eventually black. The fruits are deadly poisonous and should never be eaten.
Distribution
Apple of Sodom, a native of southern Africa, is found occasionally in many Mediterranean countries and is considered a seriously invasive alien in parts of Australia and Newzealand.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This interesting plant is becoming more scarce and is now only found very locally in a few confined spots in north/northwest England and in parts of Wales.
Angular Solomon's-seal is a chalk loving plant which grows in rocky limestone habitats, often in limestone pavements.
It grows to around 50cm in height and has whitish-green flowers which unlike it's close relative, Common Solomon's-seal (Polygonatum multiflorum) are not 'waisted' and are tubular in appearance. It gets it's name 'angular' from the stems which are more erect than those of Common Solomon's-seal and then arch at a quite acute angle towards the top. The leaves are more erect than with Common Solomon's-seal. The flowers are followed by black berries.
It flowers from May to July.
Angular Solomon's-seal is a chalk loving plant which grows in rocky limestone habitats, often in limestone pavements.
It grows to around 50cm in height and has whitish-green flowers which unlike it's close relative, Common Solomon's-seal (Polygonatum multiflorum) are not 'waisted' and are tubular in appearance. It gets it's name 'angular' from the stems which are more erect than those of Common Solomon's-seal and then arch at a quite acute angle towards the top. The leaves are more erect than with Common Solomon's-seal. The flowers are followed by black berries.
It flowers from May to July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Allium subvillosum is an attractive plant, but to appreciate its true beauty you need to get close up and personal because it has such tiny flowers.
Identification
A relative of Wild Garlic (also known as Ramsons), Allium subvillosum has dense umbels each with 15 to 20 white flowers that are deeply cupped and have yellow anthers. This bulb-forming perennial grows up to 30cm tall, and its long narrow leaves are covered with long white hairs.
Allium subvillosum was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (Liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Distribution
These spring wildflowers are found in southern Spain and Portugal, Sicily, North Africa and the Balearics.
Habitat
This coastal plant of the Mediterranean region can be found in both sandy and grassy places close to the sea.
Blooming Times
Allium subvillosum blooms very early in the year. The specimens shown on this page were photographed in the Algarve region of Portugal in late February.
Etymology
Allium is the Latin word for garlic, while the specific epithet subvillosum comes from sub- meaning somewhat or slightly, and -villosum meaning covered in soft hairs.
Identification
A relative of Wild Garlic (also known as Ramsons), Allium subvillosum has dense umbels each with 15 to 20 white flowers that are deeply cupped and have yellow anthers. This bulb-forming perennial grows up to 30cm tall, and its long narrow leaves are covered with long white hairs.
Allium subvillosum was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (Liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Distribution
These spring wildflowers are found in southern Spain and Portugal, Sicily, North Africa and the Balearics.
Habitat
This coastal plant of the Mediterranean region can be found in both sandy and grassy places close to the sea.
Blooming Times
Allium subvillosum blooms very early in the year. The specimens shown on this page were photographed in the Algarve region of Portugal in late February.
Etymology
Allium is the Latin word for garlic, while the specific epithet subvillosum comes from sub- meaning somewhat or slightly, and -villosum meaning covered in soft hairs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
It is becoming increasingly rare due to habitat destruction, and is now listed in the Red Data List of endangered plant species. It is one of the toadflaxes which are now included of the Plantain (Plantaginaceae) family - a hugely diverse grouping of plants which now incorporates many of the species originally included in the Scrophulariacea family.
Cape St. Vincent is famous for its biodiversity and boasts a number of endangered and/or endemic species of plants. Despite its designation as a 'natural park' the site is under great pressure from tourist footfall and also, shockingly, from building projects - in recent years villas have been built in the midst of the most fragile of the habitats. The site is also threatened by the dumping of litter and rubble, particularly by builders.
Linaria algarviana is easily confused with Linaria amethystea, which is common throughout the Algarve and found in open coastal fields and meadows.
Linaria algarviana appears to flower later than L. amethystea, but this may be due to the cold, windy and generally inhospitable conditions which often affect Cape St. Vincent well into springtime.
Cape St. Vincent is famous for its biodiversity and boasts a number of endangered and/or endemic species of plants. Despite its designation as a 'natural park' the site is under great pressure from tourist footfall and also, shockingly, from building projects - in recent years villas have been built in the midst of the most fragile of the habitats. The site is also threatened by the dumping of litter and rubble, particularly by builders.
Linaria algarviana is easily confused with Linaria amethystea, which is common throughout the Algarve and found in open coastal fields and meadows.
Linaria algarviana appears to flower later than L. amethystea, but this may be due to the cold, windy and generally inhospitable conditions which often affect Cape St. Vincent well into springtime.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dianthus caryophyllus, carnation or clove pink, is a species of Dianthus. It is probably native to the Mediterranean region but its exact range is unknown due to extensive cultivation for the last 2,000 years.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves are glaucous greyish green to blue-green, slender, up to 15 cm long. The flowers are produced singly or up to five together in a cyme; they are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly scented; the original natural flower colour is bright pinkish-purple, but cultivars of other colours, including red, white, yellow and green, have been developed.
Cultivation and uses
Growing
Carnations require well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and full sun. Numerous cultivars have been selected for garden planting.[4] Typical examples include 'Gina Porto', 'Helen', 'Laced Romeo', and 'Red Rocket'.
Colombia is the largest carnation producer in the world.
Traditional meanings
For the most part, carnations express love, fascination, and distinction, though there are many variations dependent on colour.
Along with the red rose, the red carnation can be used as a symbol of socialism and the labour movement, and historically has often been used in demonstrations on International Workers' Day (May Day).
In Portugal, bright red carnations represent the 1974 coup d'etat that ended the Estado Novo regime.
Light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection.
White carnations represent pure love and good luck, while striped (variegated) carnations symbolise regret that a love cannot be shared.
White carnations, in the Netherlands are associated with HRH prince Bernhard. He wore one during World War II and in a gesture of defiance some of the Dutch population took up this gesture. After the war the white carnation became a sign of the Prince, veterans and remembrance of the resistance.
Purple carnations indicate capriciousness. In France, it is a traditional funeral flower, given in condolence for the death of a loved one.
According to a Christian legend, carnations first appeared on Earth as Jesus carried the Cross. The Virgin Mary shed tears at Jesus' plight, and carnations sprang up from where her tears fell. Thus the pink carnation became the symbol of a mother's undying love.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves are glaucous greyish green to blue-green, slender, up to 15 cm long. The flowers are produced singly or up to five together in a cyme; they are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly scented; the original natural flower colour is bright pinkish-purple, but cultivars of other colours, including red, white, yellow and green, have been developed.
Cultivation and uses
Growing
Carnations require well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and full sun. Numerous cultivars have been selected for garden planting.[4] Typical examples include 'Gina Porto', 'Helen', 'Laced Romeo', and 'Red Rocket'.
Colombia is the largest carnation producer in the world.
Traditional meanings
For the most part, carnations express love, fascination, and distinction, though there are many variations dependent on colour.
Along with the red rose, the red carnation can be used as a symbol of socialism and the labour movement, and historically has often been used in demonstrations on International Workers' Day (May Day).
In Portugal, bright red carnations represent the 1974 coup d'etat that ended the Estado Novo regime.
Light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection.
White carnations represent pure love and good luck, while striped (variegated) carnations symbolise regret that a love cannot be shared.
White carnations, in the Netherlands are associated with HRH prince Bernhard. He wore one during World War II and in a gesture of defiance some of the Dutch population took up this gesture. After the war the white carnation became a sign of the Prince, veterans and remembrance of the resistance.
Purple carnations indicate capriciousness. In France, it is a traditional funeral flower, given in condolence for the death of a loved one.
According to a Christian legend, carnations first appeared on Earth as Jesus carried the Cross. The Virgin Mary shed tears at Jesus' plight, and carnations sprang up from where her tears fell. Thus the pink carnation became the symbol of a mother's undying love.
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求助
meriunkat
2017年08月14日
Last two are same plant, anyone know the names?
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meriunkat：@Ueca oh😓 thanks for letting me know
meriunkat：@margiebezares thanks I should have been more specific though 😅 I'm looking for it's scientific name
Ueca：The last two are toxic. Don't eat them...
Abby Gill：#2 might be a pachyphyllum.
margiebezares：Kalanchoe
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Nothing shouts "Summer!" more emphatically than hanging baskets brimming with masses of petunias (Petunia spp.) Where they don't bloom year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones [10 through 11](http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=264607&isprofile=0&letter=p), petunias cover themselves in fragrant flowers – some up to 4 inches wide – from early spring until the first killing frost. Although hanging-basket petunias require more attention than their garden-planted counterparts, their enthusiastic performance is well worth the extra effort.
Feed for Flowers
The cascades of color that make petunia hanging baskets so appealing won't materialize without at least six hours of daily sun and regular doses of fertilizer. Producing all those trailing stems of flowers takes lots of energy.
To give them the best start, mix slow-release 5-10-5 granulated plant food into the soil before planting. One manufacturer recommends using 2 teaspoons for each 1 square foot of soil. After adding the petunias, fill the container with soil and water well.
Rain and maintenance watering both leach nutrients from hanging baskets. Yellowing leaves are a sign of nutrient deficiency. When they appear, begin fertilizing the petunias with liquid, 5-10-5 plant food every 10 days to two weeks for the remainder of the growing season. Mix a solution of 4 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of the plant food and 1 gallon of water.
Water Wisely
Hanging baskets dry out quickly. In hot, dry weather, petunias may need watering twice a day. Overwatering, however, may rot their roots. When you do water, stop only when water begins draining from the bottom of the baskets.
Groom for Growth
Many petunia varieties need regular grooming to look their best for an entire growing season. If their spent flowers are allowed to go to seed, they'll stop blooming. Deadheading, the practice of pinching old blooms off below the thickened base where seeds form, keeps new ones coming.
If the plants become overgrown, prune them back by one-third. Using clean, sharp stem cutters, make each pruning cut just above a set of leaves. Healthy new growth and flowers soon follow.
Potential Diseases
Petunias' occasional diseases include root rot from excessively wet soil. As long as their baskets have at least four drainage holes, root rot isn't likely.
Gray mold surfaces as fuzzy, grayish to brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The fungus loves humidity, so don't overcrowd baskets. Water the petunias at their bases so the leaves stay dry .
Late blight causes water-soaked, irregular spots on young leaves. Affected leaves eventually turn brown and die. Spraying weekly with ready-to-use chlorothalonil protects the plants when warm days, cool nights and wet weather favor the disease. Spray until the fungicide drips from their leaves.
Yellow mottling on petunia leaves indicates tobacco mosaic virus. Other symptoms include stunted or distorted growth and leaf lesions. No cure exists; dispose of infected plants and their potting mix and baskets in sealed plastic bags, and disinfect any gardening tools they may have contaminated in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol.
Potential Pests
Aphids drain sap from tender new stems and leaves, covering them in sticky waste called honeydew. Tiny black flea beetles typically arrive in midsummer to chew holes in the backs of the leaves.
Organic, ready-to-use pyrethrin insecticide kills both insects. Spray the plants until they drip, being sure to cover the backs of the leaves where the insects usually feed.
Feed for Flowers
The cascades of color that make petunia hanging baskets so appealing won't materialize without at least six hours of daily sun and regular doses of fertilizer. Producing all those trailing stems of flowers takes lots of energy.
To give them the best start, mix slow-release 5-10-5 granulated plant food into the soil before planting. One manufacturer recommends using 2 teaspoons for each 1 square foot of soil. After adding the petunias, fill the container with soil and water well.
Rain and maintenance watering both leach nutrients from hanging baskets. Yellowing leaves are a sign of nutrient deficiency. When they appear, begin fertilizing the petunias with liquid, 5-10-5 plant food every 10 days to two weeks for the remainder of the growing season. Mix a solution of 4 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of the plant food and 1 gallon of water.
Water Wisely
Hanging baskets dry out quickly. In hot, dry weather, petunias may need watering twice a day. Overwatering, however, may rot their roots. When you do water, stop only when water begins draining from the bottom of the baskets.
Groom for Growth
Many petunia varieties need regular grooming to look their best for an entire growing season. If their spent flowers are allowed to go to seed, they'll stop blooming. Deadheading, the practice of pinching old blooms off below the thickened base where seeds form, keeps new ones coming.
If the plants become overgrown, prune them back by one-third. Using clean, sharp stem cutters, make each pruning cut just above a set of leaves. Healthy new growth and flowers soon follow.
Potential Diseases
Petunias' occasional diseases include root rot from excessively wet soil. As long as their baskets have at least four drainage holes, root rot isn't likely.
Gray mold surfaces as fuzzy, grayish to brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The fungus loves humidity, so don't overcrowd baskets. Water the petunias at their bases so the leaves stay dry .
Late blight causes water-soaked, irregular spots on young leaves. Affected leaves eventually turn brown and die. Spraying weekly with ready-to-use chlorothalonil protects the plants when warm days, cool nights and wet weather favor the disease. Spray until the fungicide drips from their leaves.
Yellow mottling on petunia leaves indicates tobacco mosaic virus. Other symptoms include stunted or distorted growth and leaf lesions. No cure exists; dispose of infected plants and their potting mix and baskets in sealed plastic bags, and disinfect any gardening tools they may have contaminated in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol.
Potential Pests
Aphids drain sap from tender new stems and leaves, covering them in sticky waste called honeydew. Tiny black flea beetles typically arrive in midsummer to chew holes in the backs of the leaves.
Organic, ready-to-use pyrethrin insecticide kills both insects. Spray the plants until they drip, being sure to cover the backs of the leaves where the insects usually feed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The petunia -- with its long blooming period and low maintenance requirements -- remains one of the most popular flowering plants among gardeners, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. The plant grows 6 to 18 inches in height and spreads up to 4 feet, making it ideal for borders, containers and mass plantings.
Flowering
Petunias are annual flowers that bloom from spring until frost in the fall. Flowers reach up to 4 inches in diameter, depending on the cultivar, with the 'Grandiflora' variety producing the largest blooms. All petunias, but especially white and purple ones, produce a pleasant fragrance.
Growing Conditions
Although petunias are annuals, providing the best possible growing conditions allows petunias to produce more flowers for a longer period of time. Choose short and compact plants at the nursery, preferably ones without flowers, for best results when transplanting. Place petunias in full sun to avoid spindly plants with few flowers. Water deeply on a weekly basis and apply balanced fertilizer monthly to encourage root development and support fast growth and abundant flower production.
Deadheading
Removing old blooms allows petunias to put energy into new flower production rather than increased size and foliage development. This also improves the appearance of the plant.
Flowering
Petunias are annual flowers that bloom from spring until frost in the fall. Flowers reach up to 4 inches in diameter, depending on the cultivar, with the 'Grandiflora' variety producing the largest blooms. All petunias, but especially white and purple ones, produce a pleasant fragrance.
Growing Conditions
Although petunias are annuals, providing the best possible growing conditions allows petunias to produce more flowers for a longer period of time. Choose short and compact plants at the nursery, preferably ones without flowers, for best results when transplanting. Place petunias in full sun to avoid spindly plants with few flowers. Water deeply on a weekly basis and apply balanced fertilizer monthly to encourage root development and support fast growth and abundant flower production.
Deadheading
Removing old blooms allows petunias to put energy into new flower production rather than increased size and foliage development. This also improves the appearance of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Often referred to and grown as annuals, petunias (Petunia spp.) are technically warm climate perennials. They grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. These brightly colored flowers grow quickly and flower abundantly, making them ideal for adding color to window boxes, flowerbeds and planters. If you can't grow them year-round, grow petunias as annuals for dazzling spring, summer and early fall color.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
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