文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Schefflera is popular as a houseplant and is usually grown for its attractive foliage. Most people in temperate regions have never seen a schefflera blooming, and it would be easy to assume that the plant doesn’t produce flowers. Flowering schefflera plants may be unusual, but these plants do bloom once in a while, even when they’re grown indoors year round.
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The schefflera houseplant is a popular plant and comes in many varieties. The most well known are the umbrella tree and the dwarf umbrella tree. One of the reasons the plant is popular is because schefflera plant care is so easy, but, while schefflera care is easy, the plant does need to be cared for. Keep reading to learn more about growing schefflera and keeping it healthy and lush.
Schefflera Plant Care Instructions
There are two very important parts to proper schefflera care. The first is correct sunlight and the second is proper watering.
Light – Schefflera plants are medium light plants, which means that they need bright but indirect light. A common complaint about schefflera plants is that they get leggy and floppy. This problem is caused by too little light. Making sure that you are growing schefflera in the right kind of light will help prevent leggy growth. On the other side, you do not want to place a schefflera houseplant in direct, bright light, as this will burn the leaves.
Water – When growing schefflera, be aware that watering correctly will help to keep your schefflera houseplant healthy. To water correctly, wait until the soil in the pot dries out and then thoroughly soak the soil when you water. Often, people will over water their schefflera plant and this will eventually kill it. Yellow leaves that fall off the plant is a sign that you may be watering too much.
Additional care of schefflera includes pruning and fertilization.
Pruning – Your schefflera may also need to be pruned occasionally, especially if it is not getting quite enough light. Pruning a schefflera is simple. Just cut off what you feel is overgrown or leggy back to a size or shape you like. Schefflera houseplants rebound quickly from pruning and will look even fuller and more lush shortly after pruning. Fertilizer – You do not need to fertilize your schefflera, but if you would like to, you can give it a half solution water soluble fertilizer once a year. Schefflera plants are poisonous to people and animals, if eaten. It is not often fatal but will cause a burning sensation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and in severe cases, difficult breathing.
Schefflera Houseplant Pests and Diseases
Schefflera plants are not often bothered by pests or disease, but it can happen occasionally. Spider mites and mealybugs are the most common pests that affect schefflera plants. In light cases of infestation, washing the plant with water and soap will normally eliminate the pests. With heavier infestations, you many need to treat the plant with an insecticide like neem oil. Also, be aware that pests typically attack this plant if it is stressed. If your schefflera has pests, this is likely a sign it is either getting too little light or too much water. The most common disease that affects schefflera is root rot. This disease is brought on by overwatering and poor drainage in the soil.
Schefflera Plant Care Instructions
There are two very important parts to proper schefflera care. The first is correct sunlight and the second is proper watering.
Light – Schefflera plants are medium light plants, which means that they need bright but indirect light. A common complaint about schefflera plants is that they get leggy and floppy. This problem is caused by too little light. Making sure that you are growing schefflera in the right kind of light will help prevent leggy growth. On the other side, you do not want to place a schefflera houseplant in direct, bright light, as this will burn the leaves.
Water – When growing schefflera, be aware that watering correctly will help to keep your schefflera houseplant healthy. To water correctly, wait until the soil in the pot dries out and then thoroughly soak the soil when you water. Often, people will over water their schefflera plant and this will eventually kill it. Yellow leaves that fall off the plant is a sign that you may be watering too much.
Additional care of schefflera includes pruning and fertilization.
Pruning – Your schefflera may also need to be pruned occasionally, especially if it is not getting quite enough light. Pruning a schefflera is simple. Just cut off what you feel is overgrown or leggy back to a size or shape you like. Schefflera houseplants rebound quickly from pruning and will look even fuller and more lush shortly after pruning. Fertilizer – You do not need to fertilize your schefflera, but if you would like to, you can give it a half solution water soluble fertilizer once a year. Schefflera plants are poisonous to people and animals, if eaten. It is not often fatal but will cause a burning sensation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and in severe cases, difficult breathing.
Schefflera Houseplant Pests and Diseases
Schefflera plants are not often bothered by pests or disease, but it can happen occasionally. Spider mites and mealybugs are the most common pests that affect schefflera plants. In light cases of infestation, washing the plant with water and soap will normally eliminate the pests. With heavier infestations, you many need to treat the plant with an insecticide like neem oil. Also, be aware that pests typically attack this plant if it is stressed. If your schefflera has pests, this is likely a sign it is either getting too little light or too much water. The most common disease that affects schefflera is root rot. This disease is brought on by overwatering and poor drainage in the soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If your rubber plant is losing leaves, it can be alarming. It can leave a plant owner wondering, “Why do leaves drop off rubber plants?” There are many reasons for leaves falling off rubber tree plant.
Causes of Rubber Tree Plant Leaves Falling Off
Light Change – A common reason for a rubber plant losing leaves is a change in the light. Many times, this will happen when you bring your rubber tree plant in from outdoors, and this change can cause a total drop of the rubber tree leaves. A few rubber tree leaves may fall off the plant with the change from summer to fall, when light levels change.
Acclimating the plant slowly when you bring it indoors and shining a few plant lights on the rubber tree will help keep the light levels up and keep the rubber plant from losing leaves. Pests – Pests are another common reason for rubber tree plant leaves falling off. In particular, rubber tree plants are susceptible to being infested with scale bugs, and these pests will cause the leaves to drop off until the plant is treated.
Treat scale or other pests with an insecticide like neem oil. Humidity – Rubber tree plants need higher humidity. Houses can be dry, especially in the winter when the heat is on. This lack of humidity can cause leaves falling off rubber tree plant. To correct this problem, mist the rubber tree plant daily or set the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity. Air Drafts – Rubber tree plants are susceptible to cold air and while your home may be the right temperature for rubber tree plant, cold drafts from windows or doors in your home may be hitting the plant and causing the rubber tree leaves to fall off. Move the plant away from any draft windows or doors that may be letting a draft in when it opens.
Over Fertilization – Rubber tree plants are frequently killed with kindness from their owners. One way this happens is that a rubber tree owner will fertilize the plant too often, and this causes a rubber plant to lose leaves. Rubber tree plants only need to be fertilized once in awhile. They need very little feeding. Over Watering – Another way that rubber tree owners can over care for their plant is by over watering the plant. When a rubber tree plant is over watered, it can shed its leaves. Only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry.
Causes of Rubber Tree Plant Leaves Falling Off
Light Change – A common reason for a rubber plant losing leaves is a change in the light. Many times, this will happen when you bring your rubber tree plant in from outdoors, and this change can cause a total drop of the rubber tree leaves. A few rubber tree leaves may fall off the plant with the change from summer to fall, when light levels change.
Acclimating the plant slowly when you bring it indoors and shining a few plant lights on the rubber tree will help keep the light levels up and keep the rubber plant from losing leaves. Pests – Pests are another common reason for rubber tree plant leaves falling off. In particular, rubber tree plants are susceptible to being infested with scale bugs, and these pests will cause the leaves to drop off until the plant is treated.
Treat scale or other pests with an insecticide like neem oil. Humidity – Rubber tree plants need higher humidity. Houses can be dry, especially in the winter when the heat is on. This lack of humidity can cause leaves falling off rubber tree plant. To correct this problem, mist the rubber tree plant daily or set the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity. Air Drafts – Rubber tree plants are susceptible to cold air and while your home may be the right temperature for rubber tree plant, cold drafts from windows or doors in your home may be hitting the plant and causing the rubber tree leaves to fall off. Move the plant away from any draft windows or doors that may be letting a draft in when it opens.
Over Fertilization – Rubber tree plants are frequently killed with kindness from their owners. One way this happens is that a rubber tree owner will fertilize the plant too often, and this causes a rubber plant to lose leaves. Rubber tree plants only need to be fertilized once in awhile. They need very little feeding. Over Watering – Another way that rubber tree owners can over care for their plant is by over watering the plant. When a rubber tree plant is over watered, it can shed its leaves. Only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
It can be frustrating to find one of your prized cactus plants leaking sap. Do not let this put you off, however. Let’s take a look at reasons for sap leaking from a cactus plant. Why is My Cactus Oozing Sap?
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
One of the easiest methods of plant propagation for cacti is by removing cactus pups. These don’t have furry ears and a tail but are the smaller versions of the parent plant at the base. Many species of cactus are known for growing cactus pups, which carry the identical characteristics of the parent without the capriciousness of seeds, which may produce plants with different characteristics. Removing offsets from cactus, also known as pups, not only produces another complete plant but is useful in containers that are overcrowded. Cactus propagation via offsets is easier than the slow growth of seed, the surgical precision of grafting and the variability of cuttings. The little cacti are small but complete copies of the parent species and simply need to be removed from the adult.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Wondering how to fertilize a cactus plant can present a bit of a dilemma, because the first question that comes to mind is “Does a cactus need fertilizer, really?” Keep reading to find out and learn more about fertilizing cactus plants.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
When you think cactus, you generally think arid, desert plant. This is not always the case, as cacti range from many different environments. While it is true the plants in this group usually prefer soil on the dry side, they still require moisture, especially during the growing season. How often do you need to water a cactus plant? There is more to how to water a cactus than the timing. You also need the correct soil porosity, container drainage, site conditions and time of year.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Occasionally, mature cactus plants have to be moved. Moving cacti in the landscape, especially large specimens, can be a challenge. This process poses more danger to you than the plant due to the spines, thorns and other dangerous armor most of these plants possess. Transplanting a cactus can be done at any time of the year, but the best time is in cool weather. Some tips on how to transplant a cactus without harm to you or the plant will follow.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti seem to be hardy and fairly resistant to problems, but fungal diseases in cactus can be a major issue. An example of this is anthracnose fungus in cactus. Anthracnose on cactus can decimate an entire plant. Is there any effective cactus anthracnose control? Read on to find out about treating anthracnose in cactus.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are considered to be pretty tough specimens, but even so they are susceptible to a number of diseases and environmental stress. A fairly common problem occurs when a cactus becomes yellow, often on the most sun exposed side of the plant. This makes one wonder “can a cactus plant get sunburned.” If so, is there a cactus sunburn treatment? Read on to find out about sunburn of cactus and how to save a sunburned cactus.
Can a Cactus Plant Get Sunburned?
Cacti come in a myriad of shapes and sizes and are almost irresistible to collect to the plant lover. When most of us think of cacti, we think of them thriving in scorching desert environments, so the natural conclusion is to provide them with conditions that mimic that setting, but the fact is that cacti are found in a variety of climates. Some species are found in tropical regions and every habitat in between.
Unless you are well-versed in cacti, chances are good that you may not be aware of the region and conditions that your new cactus baby would ordinarily thrive in. A yellowing of the plant’s epidermis is telling you that it isn’t happy with its current conditions. In other words, it sounds like a case of sun scorch or sunburn of cactus. Another reason for sunburn on cacti is that they are often initially raised in a greenhouse where conditions are kept at a pretty consistent level of light, heat and moisture. When you bring the cactus home and plunk it outside in a hot, sunny area, imagine the plant’s shock. It hasn’t been used to direct sunlight or sudden temperature changes. The result is a sunburned cactus that first shows signs of yellowing and, in extreme cases, the skin turns white and soft, indicating the eventual demise of the plant. Interestingly, cacti do have ways of dealing with intense heat and sunlight. Some varieties develop additional radial spines to protect the sensitive dermis while others produce more fur to protect the tender outer skin of the plant. The problem is if you suddenly introduce them to these more extreme conditions, the plant doesn’t have time to provide itself with any protection. That’s when some type of cactus sunburn treatment needs to be implemented.
Caring for Sunburned Cactus
If you can catch the problem before the epidermis is scorched white, you may be able to save the poor plant. Here’s how to save a sunburned cactus. Caring for sunburned cactus obviously means you need to get it out of the hot sun. If you notice any yellowing on the cactus and it is in full sun, move it, even if you have to move it in and out of the sun from day to day. Of course, this is really only feasible if the plant is in a pot and of a size that is physically possible to move. If you have a really large cactus that you suspect of sunburn or the cacti reside in the garden proper, try using shade cloth at least during the hottest part of the day. Keep the cacti consistently watered. If other plants are shading the cacti, be judicious when pruning. If you want to move your cacti around, only do so during cool weather to allow them to acclimate slowly and build up some immunity to the hot summer sun. Gradually introduce cacti to outdoor conditions if you move them inside during the winter and then outside for the summer.
Is Sunburn and Sunscald of Cactus the Same?
Although ‘sunburn’ and ‘sunscald’ sound like they might be related, this isn’t the case. Sunscald refers to a disease called Hendersonia opuntiae. It’s a common disease, particularly on prickly pear cactus. Symptoms of sunscald are more localized than sunburn and appear as disparate spots that gradually take over an entire cladode or arm of the cactus. The cladode then turns a reddish-brown and dies. Unfortunately, there is no practical control for this disease.
Can a Cactus Plant Get Sunburned?
Cacti come in a myriad of shapes and sizes and are almost irresistible to collect to the plant lover. When most of us think of cacti, we think of them thriving in scorching desert environments, so the natural conclusion is to provide them with conditions that mimic that setting, but the fact is that cacti are found in a variety of climates. Some species are found in tropical regions and every habitat in between.
Unless you are well-versed in cacti, chances are good that you may not be aware of the region and conditions that your new cactus baby would ordinarily thrive in. A yellowing of the plant’s epidermis is telling you that it isn’t happy with its current conditions. In other words, it sounds like a case of sun scorch or sunburn of cactus. Another reason for sunburn on cacti is that they are often initially raised in a greenhouse where conditions are kept at a pretty consistent level of light, heat and moisture. When you bring the cactus home and plunk it outside in a hot, sunny area, imagine the plant’s shock. It hasn’t been used to direct sunlight or sudden temperature changes. The result is a sunburned cactus that first shows signs of yellowing and, in extreme cases, the skin turns white and soft, indicating the eventual demise of the plant. Interestingly, cacti do have ways of dealing with intense heat and sunlight. Some varieties develop additional radial spines to protect the sensitive dermis while others produce more fur to protect the tender outer skin of the plant. The problem is if you suddenly introduce them to these more extreme conditions, the plant doesn’t have time to provide itself with any protection. That’s when some type of cactus sunburn treatment needs to be implemented.
Caring for Sunburned Cactus
If you can catch the problem before the epidermis is scorched white, you may be able to save the poor plant. Here’s how to save a sunburned cactus. Caring for sunburned cactus obviously means you need to get it out of the hot sun. If you notice any yellowing on the cactus and it is in full sun, move it, even if you have to move it in and out of the sun from day to day. Of course, this is really only feasible if the plant is in a pot and of a size that is physically possible to move. If you have a really large cactus that you suspect of sunburn or the cacti reside in the garden proper, try using shade cloth at least during the hottest part of the day. Keep the cacti consistently watered. If other plants are shading the cacti, be judicious when pruning. If you want to move your cacti around, only do so during cool weather to allow them to acclimate slowly and build up some immunity to the hot summer sun. Gradually introduce cacti to outdoor conditions if you move them inside during the winter and then outside for the summer.
Is Sunburn and Sunscald of Cactus the Same?
Although ‘sunburn’ and ‘sunscald’ sound like they might be related, this isn’t the case. Sunscald refers to a disease called Hendersonia opuntiae. It’s a common disease, particularly on prickly pear cactus. Symptoms of sunscald are more localized than sunburn and appear as disparate spots that gradually take over an entire cladode or arm of the cactus. The cladode then turns a reddish-brown and dies. Unfortunately, there is no practical control for this disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rubber tree is a large houseplant and most people find it is easy to grow and care for indoors. However, some people ask about growing outdoor rubber tree plants. In fact, in some areas, this plant is used as a screen or patio plant. So, can you grow rubber plant outside? Read more to learn about taking care of a rubber plant outside in your area.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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