文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus are relatively trouble-free succulent plants, but if your Christmas cactus leaves are red or purple instead of green, or if you notice Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges, your plant is telling you that something isn’t quite right. Read on to learn about possible causes and solutions for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a familiar plant that produces masses of colorful blooms to brighten the environment in the darkest days of winter. Although Christmas cactus is relatively easy to get along with, it isn’t uncommon to notice a Christmas cactus with yellow leaves. Why do Christmas cactus leaves turn yellow? There are several possible reasons for yellow Christmas cactus leaves.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Help! My Christmas cactus has bugs! Christmas cactus is a relatively low-maintenance, pest-resistant plant, but it can fall victim to a number of harmful pests. If you notice tiny bugs in Christmas cactus, take heart. Most pests of Christmas cactus are easily eliminated. Water and fertilize as necessary, and keep in mind that healthy plants are more resistant to Christmas cactus insects. Read on to learn more about bugs in Christmas cactus.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Leaves Dropping From Christmas Cactus: Fixing Leaf Drop On Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
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成长记
Ueca
2017年08月16日
It doesn't seem to mind shade, either. I really like and recommend this plant.
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求助
Anne-Marie Coogler
2017年08月15日
I need to know what this is someone has just eat the plant en
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meriunkat：yeah I've heard you can eat this plant
Ueca：It looks like the leaf of a Christmas Kalanchoe.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Cacti are the perfect plant for the novice gardener. They are also the perfect specimen for a neglectful gardener. Bunny ears cactus plant, also called angel’s wings, has ease of care combined with an original appearance. The thick pads of this plant are adorned with fuzzy glochids, or short bristles, that resemble the fur of rabbits and grow in earlike pairs. Even a beginner can learn how to grow bunny ears cactus and enjoy the soft appearance of the plant without a lot of typical houseplant fuss.
Bunny Ears Cactus Information
Bunny ears cactus (Opuntia microdasys) originated in Mexico and is a denizen of arid, desert-like areas. Growing bunny ears cactus is as simple as mimicking its native regional conditions. So if you have a dry, low humidity home and plenty of sunny exposure, bunny ears cactus plant might be the perfect plant for you. Bunny ears forms a 2- to 3-foot tall plant with a spread of 4 to 5 feet in its native habitat. In the home, it is a slow growing plant that will likely reach 2 feet in height and have about the same width. It makes an excellent container plant with its paired 3- to 6-inch long pads, which start out a rosy red and deepen to bright green. An interesting bit of bunny ears cactus information is that it does not develop spines. Instead, it grows glochids, which are short whitish brown prickles. These still have the ability to bite, so caution is urged when handling the cactus. If you are lucky, the plant may produce 2-inch wide creamy yellow flowers in summer, followed by globular purple fruits.
How to Grow Bunny Ears Cactus
As with most succulents, you can start new bunny ears plants with a pad taken from the cactus. Use extreme caution when removing a leaf because the glochids dislodge easily and are very difficult to remove from the skin. Use thick gloves or newspaper to pick up the pad. Allow the end to callus for a few days and then insert into cactus soil. Use a good cactus mix for growing bunny ears cactus, or make your own with 40 percent potting soil, 40 percent sand and 20 percent peat moss. The pad usually roots within a few weeks. Bunny ears cactus requires a well-drained container for indoor use. An unglazed clay pot allows for evaporation of excess moisture, which is a prime killer of these plants. They can also grow outdoors but are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.
Bunny Ears Cactus Care
These plants are a gardeners dream for their low maintenance and interesting appearance. Water can be the death of the plant but it does need consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant when the top one inch of soil is dry. Allow the water to drain out of the pot and remove any excess from the saucer. During fall and winter, water lightly only every 3 to 4 weeks. Fertilize the plant every other water period during spring and summer with a diluted houseplant food or cactus formula. Occasionally, the plant will be beleaguered by pests such as mealybugs and scale insects. Combat these with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. Bunny ears cactus should be repotted every 1 to 2 years. Wait at least a week after repotting to water the plant. Other than these steps, bunny ears cactus care is limited and the plant should reward you with its abundant pads and interesting features for years.
Bunny Ears Cactus Information
Bunny ears cactus (Opuntia microdasys) originated in Mexico and is a denizen of arid, desert-like areas. Growing bunny ears cactus is as simple as mimicking its native regional conditions. So if you have a dry, low humidity home and plenty of sunny exposure, bunny ears cactus plant might be the perfect plant for you. Bunny ears forms a 2- to 3-foot tall plant with a spread of 4 to 5 feet in its native habitat. In the home, it is a slow growing plant that will likely reach 2 feet in height and have about the same width. It makes an excellent container plant with its paired 3- to 6-inch long pads, which start out a rosy red and deepen to bright green. An interesting bit of bunny ears cactus information is that it does not develop spines. Instead, it grows glochids, which are short whitish brown prickles. These still have the ability to bite, so caution is urged when handling the cactus. If you are lucky, the plant may produce 2-inch wide creamy yellow flowers in summer, followed by globular purple fruits.
How to Grow Bunny Ears Cactus
As with most succulents, you can start new bunny ears plants with a pad taken from the cactus. Use extreme caution when removing a leaf because the glochids dislodge easily and are very difficult to remove from the skin. Use thick gloves or newspaper to pick up the pad. Allow the end to callus for a few days and then insert into cactus soil. Use a good cactus mix for growing bunny ears cactus, or make your own with 40 percent potting soil, 40 percent sand and 20 percent peat moss. The pad usually roots within a few weeks. Bunny ears cactus requires a well-drained container for indoor use. An unglazed clay pot allows for evaporation of excess moisture, which is a prime killer of these plants. They can also grow outdoors but are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.
Bunny Ears Cactus Care
These plants are a gardeners dream for their low maintenance and interesting appearance. Water can be the death of the plant but it does need consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant when the top one inch of soil is dry. Allow the water to drain out of the pot and remove any excess from the saucer. During fall and winter, water lightly only every 3 to 4 weeks. Fertilize the plant every other water period during spring and summer with a diluted houseplant food or cactus formula. Occasionally, the plant will be beleaguered by pests such as mealybugs and scale insects. Combat these with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. Bunny ears cactus should be repotted every 1 to 2 years. Wait at least a week after repotting to water the plant. Other than these steps, bunny ears cactus care is limited and the plant should reward you with its abundant pads and interesting features for years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Fenestraria baby toes really does look a bit like the tiny digits of an infant. The succulent plant is also known as living stones, with larger plants producing small rock-like protuberant leaves. In fact, it shares the same family as Lithops, which is also referred to as living stones. The plant is widely available at nurseries and a live object of artistic interest. Instructions on how to grow a baby toes plant are easy enough for children and young people, who adore the fascinating little plant.
Baby Toes Succulent Description
Baby toes plants (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are native to subtropical desert zones. They require bright sun and moderate water in well-drained soil with plenty of gritty matter. Mother Nature engineered them to be very tolerant of low nutrient soils with extreme weather conditions. The perennial succulents form columns of leaves that are thick and rise up like small toes with flattened tops. The tops possess a translucent membrane over the top of the leaf. The vertical leaves may be mistaken for stems but are really modified foliage. Baby toes succulent may be mottled, grayish green to fully gray or even brown.
Baby Toes Plant Propagation
Like many succulents, Fenestraria baby toes produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. Baby toes bloom in late summer to autumn with daisy-like flowers in a variety of hues. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster baby toes plants are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
How to Grow a Baby Toes
Starting baby toes from seed can be rewarding but you need a few key elements for a successful venture. First, the container should be shallow and well-draining. Make up a growing medium with equal parts coir, potting soil, sand, fine gravel and perlite. Moisten the mixture in the pot lightly and strew the seeds evenly on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a light dusting of sand over the seeds. They will push the sand out of their way as the seedlings emerge. Cover the pot with clear plastic and place in a low light area until germination. Mist the plants after they emerge and remove the cover for half an hour daily to prevent fungal growth.
Care of Baby Toes
Move pots to a fully sunlit area where temperatures range at least 65 F. (19 C.). As with most succulent plants, the biggest problem is over or under watering. While Baby toes are tolerant of drought conditions, they need moisture to store in their leaves to sustain them during the growing season. Baby toes have few pest or disease problems, but do watch out for rot when plants are over watered or in pots that don’t drain well. Fertilize in early spring with a half dilution of cactus and succulent food. Suspend watering in the dormant season from November to February. Other than that, care of baby toes, is so easy the infant whose toes they resemble could almost grow these great little succulents.
Baby Toes Succulent Description
Baby toes plants (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are native to subtropical desert zones. They require bright sun and moderate water in well-drained soil with plenty of gritty matter. Mother Nature engineered them to be very tolerant of low nutrient soils with extreme weather conditions. The perennial succulents form columns of leaves that are thick and rise up like small toes with flattened tops. The tops possess a translucent membrane over the top of the leaf. The vertical leaves may be mistaken for stems but are really modified foliage. Baby toes succulent may be mottled, grayish green to fully gray or even brown.
Baby Toes Plant Propagation
Like many succulents, Fenestraria baby toes produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. Baby toes bloom in late summer to autumn with daisy-like flowers in a variety of hues. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster baby toes plants are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
How to Grow a Baby Toes
Starting baby toes from seed can be rewarding but you need a few key elements for a successful venture. First, the container should be shallow and well-draining. Make up a growing medium with equal parts coir, potting soil, sand, fine gravel and perlite. Moisten the mixture in the pot lightly and strew the seeds evenly on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a light dusting of sand over the seeds. They will push the sand out of their way as the seedlings emerge. Cover the pot with clear plastic and place in a low light area until germination. Mist the plants after they emerge and remove the cover for half an hour daily to prevent fungal growth.
Care of Baby Toes
Move pots to a fully sunlit area where temperatures range at least 65 F. (19 C.). As with most succulent plants, the biggest problem is over or under watering. While Baby toes are tolerant of drought conditions, they need moisture to store in their leaves to sustain them during the growing season. Baby toes have few pest or disease problems, but do watch out for rot when plants are over watered or in pots that don’t drain well. Fertilize in early spring with a half dilution of cactus and succulent food. Suspend watering in the dormant season from November to February. Other than that, care of baby toes, is so easy the infant whose toes they resemble could almost grow these great little succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Aeoniums are fleshy leaved succulents that grow in a pronounced rosette shape. Growing aeoniums is easy in areas with few freezes. They can also grow indoors, in a sunny window where temperatures are toasty warm. Learn how to grow an aeonium plant for unique texture and form in both indoor and outdoor garden displays.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Agave is a long-leaved succulent plant that naturally forms a rosette shape and produces a flower spire of attractive cup shaped blooms. The plant is drought tolerant and perennial, making it ideal for the mature arid garden. Many agave plants are native to North America and are adaptable to colder climates in the Pacific Northwest and even Canada.
Types of Agave
Almost every climate is capable of growing agave as some are hardy down to single digits for short periods of time and with shelter. Agave is in the Agavaceae family of succulents which include dracaena, yucca and ponytail palms.
The century plant (Agave americana) is one of the most notorious landscape agaves. It produces a lovely inflorescence (flower) and then the main plant dies, leaving behind pups or offsets. The American agave or American aloe, as it is also called, has a white stripe running down the center of the leaves. It is a warm season agave only. There are many other types of agave, which makes it easy to find and garden with this stunning plant. Some of these include: Agave parryi Agave ocahui Agave macroacantha Agave gigantensis
Planting Agave
Agave have a large tap root and do not transplant well, so choose an appropriate site when planting agave. The majority of the roots are surface roots and do not require a deep hole if planted when young. Check your soil for drainage, or if planting in heavy clay soils amend the soil with sand or grit. Mix in enough sand to make the soil halfway comprised of grit. Water the plant diligently for the first week and then cut it to half the second week. Taper off even more until you are only watering once every week or two.
How to Grow Agave
Growing agave is easy if you plant the right variety in the right location. Agaves need full sun and gritty soil that percolates easily. They can even do quite well when potted but use an unglazed clay pot that will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Water needs are moderate to light depending upon the heat of the season but the plants should be allowed to dry out before irrigation. In spring they benefit from the application of a granulated time release fertilizer that will provide nutrient needs for the season. Many varieties of agave will die after blooming and then produce pups or offshoots from their base to replace themselves. On varieties where the parent plant doesn’t die after flowering, it is a good idea to get long handled pruners and remove the spent bloom. After establishment, neglect is actually how to grow agave and produce happy plants.
Agave Plant Care in Pots
Agave that are grown in pots require even more grit in the soil and can actually be planted in a cactus mix. The addition of small rocks or pebbles to the soil increases the drainage capabilities of the container. Agave plants in containers will require more water than those in the ground and will need to be re-potted every year or so to replenish soil and root prune the plant. Agave plant care for container grown plants is otherwise the same and it affords you the ability to bring sensitive forms indoors when temperatures plummet.
Types of Agave
Almost every climate is capable of growing agave as some are hardy down to single digits for short periods of time and with shelter. Agave is in the Agavaceae family of succulents which include dracaena, yucca and ponytail palms.
The century plant (Agave americana) is one of the most notorious landscape agaves. It produces a lovely inflorescence (flower) and then the main plant dies, leaving behind pups or offsets. The American agave or American aloe, as it is also called, has a white stripe running down the center of the leaves. It is a warm season agave only. There are many other types of agave, which makes it easy to find and garden with this stunning plant. Some of these include: Agave parryi Agave ocahui Agave macroacantha Agave gigantensis
Planting Agave
Agave have a large tap root and do not transplant well, so choose an appropriate site when planting agave. The majority of the roots are surface roots and do not require a deep hole if planted when young. Check your soil for drainage, or if planting in heavy clay soils amend the soil with sand or grit. Mix in enough sand to make the soil halfway comprised of grit. Water the plant diligently for the first week and then cut it to half the second week. Taper off even more until you are only watering once every week or two.
How to Grow Agave
Growing agave is easy if you plant the right variety in the right location. Agaves need full sun and gritty soil that percolates easily. They can even do quite well when potted but use an unglazed clay pot that will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Water needs are moderate to light depending upon the heat of the season but the plants should be allowed to dry out before irrigation. In spring they benefit from the application of a granulated time release fertilizer that will provide nutrient needs for the season. Many varieties of agave will die after blooming and then produce pups or offshoots from their base to replace themselves. On varieties where the parent plant doesn’t die after flowering, it is a good idea to get long handled pruners and remove the spent bloom. After establishment, neglect is actually how to grow agave and produce happy plants.
Agave Plant Care in Pots
Agave that are grown in pots require even more grit in the soil and can actually be planted in a cactus mix. The addition of small rocks or pebbles to the soil increases the drainage capabilities of the container. Agave plants in containers will require more water than those in the ground and will need to be re-potted every year or so to replenish soil and root prune the plant. Agave plant care for container grown plants is otherwise the same and it affords you the ability to bring sensitive forms indoors when temperatures plummet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Anthracnose of agaves is bad news to be sure. The good news, however, is that although the fungus is unsightly, anthracnose on agave plants isn’t an automatic death sentence. The key is to improve growing conditions, and to treat the plant as soon as possible. Read on to learn how to prevent and control anthracnose of agaves.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While usually an easy plant to grow in rock gardens and hot, dry areas, agave can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal rots if exposed to too much moisture and humidity. Cool, wet spring weather that rapidly changes to hot, humid summer can cause a surge in fungal growth and pest populations. Mid to late summer crown rot of agave plants can be common in cooler climates and potted plants. Read on to learn what you can do for agave plants with crown rot.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Agave is a desert plant, native to Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. While generally a low maintenance, easy-to-grow plant, agave can be susceptible to fungal and bacterial rots, as well as pest problems such as the agave snout weevil and the agave plant bug (Caulotops barberi). If you have noticed bugs eating agave plants in your landscape, continue reading to learn more about Caulotops barberi pests and controlling agave plant bugs in the garden.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, commonly called moss rose, grows as a colorful, spreading ground cover in beds, borders and containers. This annual flower grows readily from seed broadcast directly in the garden bed, or you can plant it from transplants in spring after frost danger has passed. Moss rose is related to the invasive annual weed purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Although the cultivated version doesn't spread as readily, it can also become invasive in some areas.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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