文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’ve grown a rubber tree plant (Ficus elastica), especially the burgundy type, and noticed what appears to be a beautiful flower unfurling, you might begin to wonder if rubber plant blooms or if this is your imagination. Find out in this article.
Does Rubber Plant Flower?
Yes, rubber plant is capable of producing flowers and, subsequently, small fruits. It is a species of fig, after all, related to the figs that are grown commercially to produce the filling in your Newtons. But popular houseplant species such as rubber trees and their cousins, the weeping figs (Ficus benjamina), rarely bloom or yield fruits. Actual rubber plant blooms are small, greenish and insignificant; they also are unlikely to occur on a rubber plant growing indoors in a container or even one growing outdoors in warm temperate to semi-tropical conditions.
What is the Red Sheath on Ficus?
As colorful as any flower, the red sheath on ficus may be an eye-catching addition to gardens indoors or out, but it is not a blossom or even the beginning of rubber plant blooms. Truth be told, a flowering rubber tree plant would be less likely to attract attention than one in the process of putting forth new growth that emerges from a burgundy to bright red sheath on ficus. The red sheath on ficus develops when a plant is actively growing and putting forth new leaves, most typically in spring and summer on healthy plants. Not all varieties of rubber plant wrap their developing foliage in red, but widely available cultivars such as ‘Rubra’ and ‘Burgundy’ produce their new growth from a bright to deep red sheath and also have reddish leaf veins and stems. After a new leaf emerges, the sheath typically turns brown and shrivels up.
Whatever the predominant color(s) of your rubber plant’s foliage—cultivars with white, pink, cream, and gold variegation are available, too—keep it looking its best by following a few simple guidelines:
Give it a spot where it receives bright, indirect light. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust from the broad smooth surfaces. Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season but avoid overwatering that will cause the leaves to drop. During the fall and winter, allow the upper inch of growing medium to dry out between waterings.
Rubber plants require good drainage but are otherwise easy-to-grow, attractive foliage plants. You may not have a flowering rubber tree plant, but you can enjoy rubber tree’s colorful foliage for years with just a modest amount of care.
Does Rubber Plant Flower?
Yes, rubber plant is capable of producing flowers and, subsequently, small fruits. It is a species of fig, after all, related to the figs that are grown commercially to produce the filling in your Newtons. But popular houseplant species such as rubber trees and their cousins, the weeping figs (Ficus benjamina), rarely bloom or yield fruits. Actual rubber plant blooms are small, greenish and insignificant; they also are unlikely to occur on a rubber plant growing indoors in a container or even one growing outdoors in warm temperate to semi-tropical conditions.
What is the Red Sheath on Ficus?
As colorful as any flower, the red sheath on ficus may be an eye-catching addition to gardens indoors or out, but it is not a blossom or even the beginning of rubber plant blooms. Truth be told, a flowering rubber tree plant would be less likely to attract attention than one in the process of putting forth new growth that emerges from a burgundy to bright red sheath on ficus. The red sheath on ficus develops when a plant is actively growing and putting forth new leaves, most typically in spring and summer on healthy plants. Not all varieties of rubber plant wrap their developing foliage in red, but widely available cultivars such as ‘Rubra’ and ‘Burgundy’ produce their new growth from a bright to deep red sheath and also have reddish leaf veins and stems. After a new leaf emerges, the sheath typically turns brown and shrivels up.
Whatever the predominant color(s) of your rubber plant’s foliage—cultivars with white, pink, cream, and gold variegation are available, too—keep it looking its best by following a few simple guidelines:
Give it a spot where it receives bright, indirect light. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust from the broad smooth surfaces. Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season but avoid overwatering that will cause the leaves to drop. During the fall and winter, allow the upper inch of growing medium to dry out between waterings.
Rubber plants require good drainage but are otherwise easy-to-grow, attractive foliage plants. You may not have a flowering rubber tree plant, but you can enjoy rubber tree’s colorful foliage for years with just a modest amount of care.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Ficus plants are commonly sold as houseplants. One of the more striking due to its glossy leaves, is the rubber tree plant. These are fairly easy to care for but dislike being moved and are fussy about water. Rubber plant watering must provide matching moisture to what the plants would find in their native Southeast Asian habitat. However, in the home interior this may be difficult to achieve unless you are vigilant or use a plant moisture meter. Learn to know signs for when to water a rubber tree plant, so your Ficus is happy and healthy.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
A rubber tree plant is also known as a Ficus elastica. These large trees can grow up to 50 feet tall. When learning how to care for a rubber tree plant, there are a few key things to remember, but rubber plant care isn’t as difficult as one might think. Starting with a young rubber tree houseplant will allow it to adapt to being an indoor plant better than starting with a more mature plant.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rabbit’s foot fern plant gets its name from the furry rhizomes that grow on top of the soil and resemble a rabbit’s foot. The rhizomes often grow over the side of the pot, adding an extra dimension to the plant. Functional as well as decorative, the rhizomes absorb moisture and nutrients as they crawl across the moist soil. Growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant in a hanging basket shows off the furry rhizomes to their best advantage. The rhizomes can grow quite long and over time they take on a spider-like appearance. Never bury the rhizomes under the soil however, as this encourages rot.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Most people are familiar with how to grow prayer plants. The prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura) is easy to grow but has specific needs. Keep reading to learn what those needs are.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The oval-shaped, beautifully patterned foliage of the prayer plant has earned it a favored spot among houseplants. Indoor gardeners love these plants, sometimes too much. When prayer plants turn yellow, it’s often because of environmental problems, but a few diseases and pests could also be responsible. If your prayer plant is turning yellow, read on to find out the possible causes and their treatments.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are number of reasons the foliage on a houseplant can turn brown. Why do prayer plant leaves turn brown? Prayer plants with brown tips can be caused by low humidity, improper watering, excess fertilizer or even too much sun. Cultural conditions are easy to change and soon your beautiful houseplant will be back to its glossy glory. Take a good look at where your plant is situated and how you care for it, and you can unlock the riddle of why you have brown leaves on prayer plants.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re a fan of the carnivorous pitcher plant, you’ll eventually want to propagate some of your specimens to add to your collection. These plants may look exotic, but propagating pitcher plants is no harder than propagating any other plant. Pitcher plant propagation can be done in a number of ways, but planting seeds or rooting cuttings are the best methods for home growers to succeed. Learn more about how to propagate a pitcher plant and you’ll increase your collection with very little effort.
Pitcher Plant Seeds
Collect the pitcher plant seeds in late fall by pinching open the dry capsules over an envelope or piece of paper towel. Drop the seeds into a sandwich bag, along with a fungicide such as Captan, and shake the bag to coat the seeds. Pour the seeds and powder onto a new sheet of paper towel and blow off the excess powder. Spread the seeds out on a dampened paper towel, roll up the towel and store it in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. Sprout the seeds by sprinkling them over a mixture of sand and peat moss. Water it and place the planter under grow lights 18 hours a day. Germination can take weeks, and the seedlings need to stay under the lights for at least four months before transplanting.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings
A faster way to propagate is by rooting pitcher plant cuttings. Cut pieces of stem that have two or three leaves on them, and clip off half of each leaf. Cut the bottom end of the stem on a diagonal and cover it with rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sphagnum moss and wet it. Make a hole in the damp moss with a pencil, place the powdered stem in the hole and push the moss around the stem to secure it. Water the pot again, place it in a plastic bag and place it under grow lights. The pitcher plant cuttings should root within two months, and can be transplanted after they begin to grow new leaves.
Pitcher Plant Seeds
Collect the pitcher plant seeds in late fall by pinching open the dry capsules over an envelope or piece of paper towel. Drop the seeds into a sandwich bag, along with a fungicide such as Captan, and shake the bag to coat the seeds. Pour the seeds and powder onto a new sheet of paper towel and blow off the excess powder. Spread the seeds out on a dampened paper towel, roll up the towel and store it in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. Sprout the seeds by sprinkling them over a mixture of sand and peat moss. Water it and place the planter under grow lights 18 hours a day. Germination can take weeks, and the seedlings need to stay under the lights for at least four months before transplanting.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings
A faster way to propagate is by rooting pitcher plant cuttings. Cut pieces of stem that have two or three leaves on them, and clip off half of each leaf. Cut the bottom end of the stem on a diagonal and cover it with rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sphagnum moss and wet it. Make a hole in the damp moss with a pencil, place the powdered stem in the hole and push the moss around the stem to secure it. Water the pot again, place it in a plastic bag and place it under grow lights. The pitcher plant cuttings should root within two months, and can be transplanted after they begin to grow new leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Every healthy houseplant eventually needs repotting, and your exotic pitcher plants are no different. The soilless mix that your plant lives in will eventually compact and shrink, leaving little room for the roots to grow. If you’re wondering, “When do I repot a pitcher plant?” every one to two years is the best interval. Learn how to repot pitcher plants and your carnivorous collection will enjoy roomy new homes. 
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Adding a pitcher plant or three to your garden or interior space adds a touch of the unusual. Beyond being interesting carnivorous specimens, the pitcher plant produces a beautiful bloom as a reward to a gardener who has cared for it well. When your pitcher plant turns yellow or brown, it’s not time to panic; these hardy plants are hard to keep down for long.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
There is something otherworldly about the cobra lily plant. The undulating form and strangely built leaves call to mind old horror movies, yet give such a unique vision that the viewer is also reminded of the great diversity of life on our planet. This pitcher plant is not only unique in appearance but has an active appetite fed by insects and, occasionally, small vertebrates. If you are lucky enough to live in a zone sufficiently warm, learn how to grow cobra lily and bring this amazing plant’s drama into your landscape.
Cobra Lily Information
California pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) grow in distinctive groupings across the state’s countryside. Cobra lily pitcher plants are native to North America and found in nutrient poor boggy areas. The plants spread asexually through runners and stolens and infrequently flower. They are inimitable plants, unmatched by most flora in exceptional structure and eccentric beauty.
The cobra lily plant almost defies description. The main features of the plant are the modified leaves that rise from the base and terminate in hooded foliage. The leaves resemble the heads of cobras and they serve a specialized function. The habitat of these plants is poor in nutrients and they use those hooded leaves to gather fuel through digested insects. The hood secretes an attractive scent, which entices unsuspecting prey to enter. Once inside, they have difficulty getting back out and the plant secretes digestive enzymes, which break down the animal matter. Unlike other pitcher plants, complete cobra lily information needs to include the fact that their hoods are not open and they do not collect rainwater to trap and drown their prey.
How to Grow a Cobra Lily
The cobra lily pitcher plants need warm temperatures, full sun and cold water to cool their roots. These conditions are hard to come by in all but a natural bog. However, if you can provide these circumstances, the plant may still be hard to come by. Darlingtonia pitchers are not as commercially available as Sarracenia pitcher plants. If you do get lucky, a container garden is probably your best bet. Plant it in a high percentage of peat with just a little fine bark and garden sand. Flush the roots daily with fresh water and move it to shelter if temperatures are higher than 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 C.). The ideal temperature range is 70 to 80 F. (21-26 C.) and they are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10. If you get a hold of seeds, they will need stratification for four weeks in the refrigerator. Surface sow the seeds and keep the pot moist with a plastic bag over the container to conserve water.
Cobra Lily Care
Moisture is the most important part of cobra lily care. Use rainwater if possible, or purchase spring water because the plants are sensitive to excess minerals and chemicals in tap water. You can cut back any dead stems and leaves as needed. They do not need fertilizing and will ingest most insect pests. The biggest disease issue is fungal, but keeping water off the leaves will usually prevent any heavy spore activity. The plant can take a brief freeze if it is dormant but you should move it to a sheltered location such as a cold frame if the freeze is weeks long.
Cobra Lily Information
California pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) grow in distinctive groupings across the state’s countryside. Cobra lily pitcher plants are native to North America and found in nutrient poor boggy areas. The plants spread asexually through runners and stolens and infrequently flower. They are inimitable plants, unmatched by most flora in exceptional structure and eccentric beauty.
The cobra lily plant almost defies description. The main features of the plant are the modified leaves that rise from the base and terminate in hooded foliage. The leaves resemble the heads of cobras and they serve a specialized function. The habitat of these plants is poor in nutrients and they use those hooded leaves to gather fuel through digested insects. The hood secretes an attractive scent, which entices unsuspecting prey to enter. Once inside, they have difficulty getting back out and the plant secretes digestive enzymes, which break down the animal matter. Unlike other pitcher plants, complete cobra lily information needs to include the fact that their hoods are not open and they do not collect rainwater to trap and drown their prey.
How to Grow a Cobra Lily
The cobra lily pitcher plants need warm temperatures, full sun and cold water to cool their roots. These conditions are hard to come by in all but a natural bog. However, if you can provide these circumstances, the plant may still be hard to come by. Darlingtonia pitchers are not as commercially available as Sarracenia pitcher plants. If you do get lucky, a container garden is probably your best bet. Plant it in a high percentage of peat with just a little fine bark and garden sand. Flush the roots daily with fresh water and move it to shelter if temperatures are higher than 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 C.). The ideal temperature range is 70 to 80 F. (21-26 C.) and they are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10. If you get a hold of seeds, they will need stratification for four weeks in the refrigerator. Surface sow the seeds and keep the pot moist with a plastic bag over the container to conserve water.
Cobra Lily Care
Moisture is the most important part of cobra lily care. Use rainwater if possible, or purchase spring water because the plants are sensitive to excess minerals and chemicals in tap water. You can cut back any dead stems and leaves as needed. They do not need fertilizing and will ingest most insect pests. The biggest disease issue is fungal, but keeping water off the leaves will usually prevent any heavy spore activity. The plant can take a brief freeze if it is dormant but you should move it to a sheltered location such as a cold frame if the freeze is weeks long.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palm plants are useful in the tropical to semi-tropical exterior landscape or as a potted specimen for the home. The palms develop pups, or side shoots, as they mature. These smaller versions of the parent plant are easy to divide away from the mother palm. Propagating ponytail palm pups will give you new little palms to share with friends and family or just provide you with another source of this attractive ornamental succulent.
About Ponytail Palm Plants
Another name for this plant is elephant’s foot palm due to its thick, roughly skinned trunk. It is in the same family as agave plants and native to southeastern scrub desserts of Mexico. It is not a true palm but a succulent, which saves moisture in the trunk.
In times of drought, the trunk will shrink in diameter and get slightly shriveled bark. When the rainy season arrives, it sucks up and stores as much moisture as it can and the trunk swells markedly. It is not a hardy plant in cooler zones and can sustain damage to the roots and trunk in excessively wet soils. As a container plant, ponytail palm care is minimal and the plant thrives on long periods of neglect. The palm is slow growing but may get up to 30 feet in its native habit, although it is more likely to be less than 10 feet in captivity.
Ponytail Palm Shoots
This lively little plant produces side pups as a method of propagating itself. Once the palm has matured, it begins to grow smaller versions of itself that sprout from the base of the mother. Removing pups from ponytail palms is the easiest way to grow more of the succulent palm. Ponytail palm shoots divide easily from the parent plant and then require rooting to produce viable plants.
Propagating Ponytail Palm Pups
Spring is the best time to divide ponytail palm shoots. Carefully excavate around the base of the parent plant to expose the base of the pups. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut the pup away from the adult plant. Pups that are 4 inches tall are usually forming a root base and make the best starts. Use a nearly soilless medium, such as a cactus mix or sand-based potting soil. Place the rooted end of the pup in moistened medium in a well-draining container. Cover the container with a plastic bag lightly secured around the edges of the pot. Place the container in a warm room in moderate light. Every few days, uncover the pot and mist the surface of the soil.
Ponytail Palm Care For Newly Potted Pups
Provided soil drainage is adequate and you do not overwater the palm, this plant is remarkably unfussy. The plant only needs water every two weeks or so and you can completely suspend watering in the winter months. Cut off damaged or diseased foliage as it occurs and repot every 2 to 3 years. Optimum temperatures for ponytail palm plants are 70 to 80 F. (21 to 27 C.), but they do quite well in average home interior temperatures.
About Ponytail Palm Plants
Another name for this plant is elephant’s foot palm due to its thick, roughly skinned trunk. It is in the same family as agave plants and native to southeastern scrub desserts of Mexico. It is not a true palm but a succulent, which saves moisture in the trunk.
In times of drought, the trunk will shrink in diameter and get slightly shriveled bark. When the rainy season arrives, it sucks up and stores as much moisture as it can and the trunk swells markedly. It is not a hardy plant in cooler zones and can sustain damage to the roots and trunk in excessively wet soils. As a container plant, ponytail palm care is minimal and the plant thrives on long periods of neglect. The palm is slow growing but may get up to 30 feet in its native habit, although it is more likely to be less than 10 feet in captivity.
Ponytail Palm Shoots
This lively little plant produces side pups as a method of propagating itself. Once the palm has matured, it begins to grow smaller versions of itself that sprout from the base of the mother. Removing pups from ponytail palms is the easiest way to grow more of the succulent palm. Ponytail palm shoots divide easily from the parent plant and then require rooting to produce viable plants.
Propagating Ponytail Palm Pups
Spring is the best time to divide ponytail palm shoots. Carefully excavate around the base of the parent plant to expose the base of the pups. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut the pup away from the adult plant. Pups that are 4 inches tall are usually forming a root base and make the best starts. Use a nearly soilless medium, such as a cactus mix or sand-based potting soil. Place the rooted end of the pup in moistened medium in a well-draining container. Cover the container with a plastic bag lightly secured around the edges of the pot. Place the container in a warm room in moderate light. Every few days, uncover the pot and mist the surface of the soil.
Ponytail Palm Care For Newly Potted Pups
Provided soil drainage is adequate and you do not overwater the palm, this plant is remarkably unfussy. The plant only needs water every two weeks or so and you can completely suspend watering in the winter months. Cut off damaged or diseased foliage as it occurs and repot every 2 to 3 years. Optimum temperatures for ponytail palm plants are 70 to 80 F. (21 to 27 C.), but they do quite well in average home interior temperatures.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plant is a fascinating carnivorous plant that has ornamental appeal while entertaining and educating on a unique method of feeding. Propagating pitcher plants can be done by tissue culture, seed or stem cuttings. Rooting cuttings is the more common method for a home gardener. Pitcher plant cuttings must be taken at the right time of the year and from a mature plant. Collectors know how to propagate a pitcher plant so we’ll take some tips from them and explore the world of pitcher plant growing.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are the type of carnivorous plant that sits and waits for bugs to fall into their pitcher traps. The tendril-shaped “pitchers” have a rim on the top that stops insects from climbing out once they get in. Generally, pitcher plants do not require much maintenance, but pruning a pitcher plant occasionally produces a more vigorous plant. Read on to learn how to prune a pitcher plant.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
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