文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily is a popular indoor plant, valued for its easy-going nature, its ability to grow in low light environments, and last but certainly not least, the beautiful white flowers, which bloom nearly nonstop. Although this plant isn’t fussy, it’s important to understand how to water a peace lily. Read on for the details of peace lily watering requirements.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
When it comes to easy indoor plants, it doesn’t get much easier than peace lily. This tough plant even tolerates low light and a certain amount of neglect. However, repotting a peace lily plant is occasionally necessary, as a rootbound plant isn’t able to absorb nutrients and water and may eventually die. Fortunately, peace lily repotting is easy! Keep reading to learn how to repot a peace lily.
When to Repot Peace Lilies
Does my peace lily need repotting? Peace lily is actually happy when its roots are slightly crowded, so don’t rush to repot if the plant doesn’t need it. However, if you notice roots growing through the drainage hole or circling around the surface of the potting mix, it’s time. If the roots become so compacted that water runs straight through the drainage hole without being absorbed into the potting mix, it’s time for an emergency peace lily repotting! Don’t panic if this is the case; repotting a peace lily isn’t difficult and your plant will soon rebound and grow like crazy in its new, roomier pot.
How to Repot a Peace Lily
Select a container only a size larger than the peace lily’s current pot. It may sound logical to use a larger pot, but a large amount of damp potting mix around the roots may contribute to root rot. It’s much better to repot the plant into gradually larger containers. Water the peace lily a day or two before repotting. Fill a container about one-third full with fresh, high quality potting mix. Remove the peace lily carefully from the container. If the roots are tightly compacted, loosen them carefully with your fingers so they can spread out in the new pot.
Set the peace lily in the new pot. Add or subtract potting mix to the bottom as needed; the top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the potting mix lightly with your fingers. Water the peace lily well, allowing excess liquid to drip through the drainage hole. Once the plant has completely drained, return it to its drainage saucer.
When to Repot Peace Lilies
Does my peace lily need repotting? Peace lily is actually happy when its roots are slightly crowded, so don’t rush to repot if the plant doesn’t need it. However, if you notice roots growing through the drainage hole or circling around the surface of the potting mix, it’s time. If the roots become so compacted that water runs straight through the drainage hole without being absorbed into the potting mix, it’s time for an emergency peace lily repotting! Don’t panic if this is the case; repotting a peace lily isn’t difficult and your plant will soon rebound and grow like crazy in its new, roomier pot.
How to Repot a Peace Lily
Select a container only a size larger than the peace lily’s current pot. It may sound logical to use a larger pot, but a large amount of damp potting mix around the roots may contribute to root rot. It’s much better to repot the plant into gradually larger containers. Water the peace lily a day or two before repotting. Fill a container about one-third full with fresh, high quality potting mix. Remove the peace lily carefully from the container. If the roots are tightly compacted, loosen them carefully with your fingers so they can spread out in the new pot.
Set the peace lily in the new pot. Add or subtract potting mix to the bottom as needed; the top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the potting mix lightly with your fingers. Water the peace lily well, allowing excess liquid to drip through the drainage hole. Once the plant has completely drained, return it to its drainage saucer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fungal issues plague almost every form of plant. The sheer number of fungal organisms is staggering and most survive dormant for long periods of time. Fungal lesions on cactus may be caused by any number of fungal types, but the important things to note are what causes them to colonize and how to prevent their damage. In this way, the gardener is armed with knowledge on how to treat fungus on cactus should any disease symptoms develop. Some fungal diseases simply cause cosmetic damage while others can develop into rots that completely eat the cactus from the inside out.
Types of Fungal Damage in Cactus
The vast amount of cacti species can only be outcompeted by the huge quantity of fungal varieties. Fungus spots on cactus pads are common, as in the case of Phyllosticta pad spot. It is often quite impossible to diagnose which fungal organism is causing the spots, but often that is unimportant since treatments are generally the same. A few fungi types damage the roots and eventually the whole plant, so once their visual damage is seen, it is too late for the plant. Simple topical fungal spots are much easier to combat and are usually not life threatening to the cactus provided steps are taken to control the offending fungus. Lesions on cacti may present in many different ways. They may be round, irregular, raised, flat and any other shape. Many are discolored but, again, the tones can range from yellow to brown and all the way to black. Some are corky, while others are weepy. These may ooze brown, rusty or black fluid, evidence of severe infection. The cacti most frequently plagued by fungal lesions are Opuntia and Agave. Fungal lesions on cactus usually start as water spots or slight discolorations on the plant’s epidermis. Over time, as the fungi mature and spread, the symptoms can broaden and even eat into the cambium as the surface skin cracks and allows the pathogen to enter.
Causes of Fungal Lesions on Cactus
Outdoor cactus can come in contact with fungal spores in various ways. Spores may be blown in from wind, in soil or contracted from splashing water. Plants with consistently wet pads or stems are the worst affected. Conditions where rain or high humidity combine with warm temperatures promote the formation of fungal lesions. Fungus spots on cactus pads are more prevalent in the springtime. They are also enhanced by overhead watering and in areas where humidity is high. Greenhouse specimens may be particularly susceptible unless there is adequate ventilation. Condensation adds to the ambient humidity and promotes spore growth. Soil is another contributing factor. Many soils harbor fungal spores, which can persist for years until the right set of conditions occur. Even purchased potting soil may be contaminated with fungal spores.
How to Treat Fungus on Cactus
Once there is a fungus affecting your cactus, it can be difficult to stop. If damage isn’t severe, a fungicide spray can usually help. If the plant is rife with lesions, it may be best to find some uninfected healthy material and start a new plant with a cutting. Use a sterile knife to take the cutting and dust it with sulfur to kill any possible adhering spores. Controlling cultural conditions with plenty of heat, under stem watering, sterile potting medium and ventilation will halt many fungal outbreaks. Another way to save a plant is to cut out the infected tissue. This doesn’t work with all fungi, but it may be effective at times. Again, sterilize your cutting implement and remove more tissue than appears to be affected to ensure all the pathogen is removed. Keep the area dry as it calluses and watch carefully for signs of reinfection.
Types of Fungal Damage in Cactus
The vast amount of cacti species can only be outcompeted by the huge quantity of fungal varieties. Fungus spots on cactus pads are common, as in the case of Phyllosticta pad spot. It is often quite impossible to diagnose which fungal organism is causing the spots, but often that is unimportant since treatments are generally the same. A few fungi types damage the roots and eventually the whole plant, so once their visual damage is seen, it is too late for the plant. Simple topical fungal spots are much easier to combat and are usually not life threatening to the cactus provided steps are taken to control the offending fungus. Lesions on cacti may present in many different ways. They may be round, irregular, raised, flat and any other shape. Many are discolored but, again, the tones can range from yellow to brown and all the way to black. Some are corky, while others are weepy. These may ooze brown, rusty or black fluid, evidence of severe infection. The cacti most frequently plagued by fungal lesions are Opuntia and Agave. Fungal lesions on cactus usually start as water spots or slight discolorations on the plant’s epidermis. Over time, as the fungi mature and spread, the symptoms can broaden and even eat into the cambium as the surface skin cracks and allows the pathogen to enter.
Causes of Fungal Lesions on Cactus
Outdoor cactus can come in contact with fungal spores in various ways. Spores may be blown in from wind, in soil or contracted from splashing water. Plants with consistently wet pads or stems are the worst affected. Conditions where rain or high humidity combine with warm temperatures promote the formation of fungal lesions. Fungus spots on cactus pads are more prevalent in the springtime. They are also enhanced by overhead watering and in areas where humidity is high. Greenhouse specimens may be particularly susceptible unless there is adequate ventilation. Condensation adds to the ambient humidity and promotes spore growth. Soil is another contributing factor. Many soils harbor fungal spores, which can persist for years until the right set of conditions occur. Even purchased potting soil may be contaminated with fungal spores.
How to Treat Fungus on Cactus
Once there is a fungus affecting your cactus, it can be difficult to stop. If damage isn’t severe, a fungicide spray can usually help. If the plant is rife with lesions, it may be best to find some uninfected healthy material and start a new plant with a cutting. Use a sterile knife to take the cutting and dust it with sulfur to kill any possible adhering spores. Controlling cultural conditions with plenty of heat, under stem watering, sterile potting medium and ventilation will halt many fungal outbreaks. Another way to save a plant is to cut out the infected tissue. This doesn’t work with all fungi, but it may be effective at times. Again, sterilize your cutting implement and remove more tissue than appears to be affected to ensure all the pathogen is removed. Keep the area dry as it calluses and watch carefully for signs of reinfection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
You’ve probably seen the mole plant euphorbia blooming in pastures or meadows, sometimes in a yellow mass. Of course, if you’re not familiar with the name, this may leave you wondering, “What is a mole plant?” Read on to find out more.
About Mole Plants
Botanically the mole plant is called Euphorbia lathyris. Other common names are caper spurge, leafy spurge and gopher spurge.
Caper spurge mole plant is either an annual or biennial plant that exudes latex when cut or broken. It has cup-shaped greenish or yellow flowers. The plant is upright, leaves are linear and bluish green in color. Unfortunately, all parts of mole spurge plant are poisonous. Please don’t mistake it for the plant that produces capers, as some have, since the poison in the caper spurge mole plant can be quite toxic. Despite its toxicity, various parts of the mole spurge plant have been used medicinally through the years. The seeds were used by French peasants as a purgative, similar to castor oil. Folklore about mole plants says the latex has been used for cancers and warts. Further information about mole plants says it is a Mediterranean native, brought to the United States for use of repelling rodents in orchards and various other agricultural locations. The mole spurge plant escaped its boundaries and self-seeded rampantly on both the east and west coasts of the U.S.
Mole Spurge Plant in Gardens
If the mole plant euphorbia is growing in your landscape, you may be one of the recipients of self-seeding. Spread may sometimes be controlled by removing flower heads before they go to seed. If you’ve noticed a decline in bothersome rodents or moles in your landscape, you may thank mole plant euphorbia and continue to let it grow. Each gardener will have to decide if the mole spurge plant is an effective repellant plant or a noxious weed in their landscape. The mole plant euphorbia is not likely to be considered an ornamental by most gardeners or by information about mole plants. Learning more about mole plant can help you control it should you decide it is not needed as a repellant plant. Control of mole plant can be as simple as digging plants by the roots before they go to seed. Now you’ve learned what is mole plant and useful information about mole plant, including its uses.
About Mole Plants
Botanically the mole plant is called Euphorbia lathyris. Other common names are caper spurge, leafy spurge and gopher spurge.
Caper spurge mole plant is either an annual or biennial plant that exudes latex when cut or broken. It has cup-shaped greenish or yellow flowers. The plant is upright, leaves are linear and bluish green in color. Unfortunately, all parts of mole spurge plant are poisonous. Please don’t mistake it for the plant that produces capers, as some have, since the poison in the caper spurge mole plant can be quite toxic. Despite its toxicity, various parts of the mole spurge plant have been used medicinally through the years. The seeds were used by French peasants as a purgative, similar to castor oil. Folklore about mole plants says the latex has been used for cancers and warts. Further information about mole plants says it is a Mediterranean native, brought to the United States for use of repelling rodents in orchards and various other agricultural locations. The mole spurge plant escaped its boundaries and self-seeded rampantly on both the east and west coasts of the U.S.
Mole Spurge Plant in Gardens
If the mole plant euphorbia is growing in your landscape, you may be one of the recipients of self-seeding. Spread may sometimes be controlled by removing flower heads before they go to seed. If you’ve noticed a decline in bothersome rodents or moles in your landscape, you may thank mole plant euphorbia and continue to let it grow. Each gardener will have to decide if the mole spurge plant is an effective repellant plant or a noxious weed in their landscape. The mole plant euphorbia is not likely to be considered an ornamental by most gardeners or by information about mole plants. Learning more about mole plant can help you control it should you decide it is not needed as a repellant plant. Control of mole plant can be as simple as digging plants by the roots before they go to seed. Now you’ve learned what is mole plant and useful information about mole plant, including its uses.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia is a large group of succulent and woody plants. Euphorbia obesa, also called baseball plant, forms a ball-like segmented shape that is adapted to hot, arid climates. Euphorbia baseball plant makes an excellent houseplant and is low maintenance. Enjoy this information on how to grow baseball euphorbia.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulent plants are easy to love. Their ease of care, sunny dispositions and moderate growth habits make them perfect for warm seasons outdoors or well lit interiors. The Echeveria succulent plant is just such a specimen, thriving on brief periods of neglect and low water and nutrients. Echeveria care is practically foolproof and grows well in either containers or toasty garden beds. The many varieties and colors of Echeveria plants provide wonderful tones and texture for mixed beds and pots.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a popular gift and houseplant. Blooming specifically during periods with long nights, it’s a welcome flash of color in the dead of winter. If you’re looking to plant or repot a Christmas cactus, however, you should be aware of a few specific soil requirements to ensure a good bloom in the next season. Keep reading to learn about soil requirements for Christmas cactus.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Collectors of succulents will be excited about Crassula pagoda plants. For sheer architectural interest, this unique plant evokes images of a trip to Shanghai where religious temples reflect the unimaginable forms of stacked architecture and astounding building prowess. Red Pagoda Crassula is an easy-to-grow plant that will add punch to any succulent display or as a stand-alone specimen. Here are a few tips on how to grow Red Pagoda and harness the impact of its structure and colorful foliage.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Many people grow Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii). This plant makes a great holiday gift for friends and family, so knowing how to propagate and grow Christmas cactus can help make this shopping easier and less hectic. Propagating Christmas Cactus
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant that is often passed from one generation to another. You can pretty much ignore the cactus with deep but infrequent watering and it will thrive. However, an overwatered Christmas cactus plant will succumb to root rot and that family heirloom may pass on to the compost heap. Saving an overwatered Christmas cactus requires swift decisive action to prevent this tragedy. Christmas cacti hail from the coastal mountains of southeastern Brazil. They belong to the genus Schlumbergera, which includes all the holiday cacti. Their native region receives plentiful rain much of the year, so Christmas cactus is not the classic drought tolerant desert variety. They need a good drenching, but then the soil should be allowed to almost dry out. During flowering they need to be kept moderately moist but take care not to use too much water on Christmas cactus.
Overwatering Symptoms on Christmas Cactus
Any cactus that has been allowed to sit in a saucer full of water is likely to have its health reduced. An overwatered Christmas cactus plant will show obvious signs of distress. If the saucer has not dried in one day, you should always dump the excess water to prevent moisture gnats and keep the roots from rotting. In case you didn’t remember to do this, one of the first overwatering symptoms on Christmas cactus will be limp leaves, which will start to drop off. Then the stems and branches will soften and get mushy. Severe cases will manifest with a foul odor and the stem will rot completely off. Prevention is simple. Use a soil meter to keep from putting too much water on Christmas cactus. Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus
Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus
Overwatering is one of the classic Christmas cactus problems, so don’t feel too bad if your plant starts exhibiting symptoms. Act fast and dump out any standing water, then carefully remove the plant from its container. Remove any stems that have started to get soft. Rinse the roots to remove any fungus that might have started to grow and then let them dry out for a day on the counter. Repot the plant the next morning and let it stay dry for a day or so before beginning a regular water regimen. If you caught it quickly enough, the plant should recover. Use your soil meter to prevent any future Christmas cactus problems, as the weakened plant might not withstand another bout of illness. Just in Case! Christmas cactus is one of the easiest plants from which to get cuttings. Choose healthy stems and root them in a glass of water or stick them into perlite or vermiculite to get roots started. Transplant them in a mixture of one part sand, one part potting mix and one part orchid bark for superior drainage. Use an unglazed pot to encourage evaporation of excess moisture. This will help ensure that you won’t have to worry again about saving an overwatered Christmas cactus. Provide full sun until a few weeks before the blooming period. Then allow it to have a dark period of at least 14 hours per day to promote flowering. Also, suspend watering for this period. Soon you will have a holiday cactus to brighten your festivities and share with friends and family.
Overwatering Symptoms on Christmas Cactus
Any cactus that has been allowed to sit in a saucer full of water is likely to have its health reduced. An overwatered Christmas cactus plant will show obvious signs of distress. If the saucer has not dried in one day, you should always dump the excess water to prevent moisture gnats and keep the roots from rotting. In case you didn’t remember to do this, one of the first overwatering symptoms on Christmas cactus will be limp leaves, which will start to drop off. Then the stems and branches will soften and get mushy. Severe cases will manifest with a foul odor and the stem will rot completely off. Prevention is simple. Use a soil meter to keep from putting too much water on Christmas cactus. Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus
Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus
Overwatering is one of the classic Christmas cactus problems, so don’t feel too bad if your plant starts exhibiting symptoms. Act fast and dump out any standing water, then carefully remove the plant from its container. Remove any stems that have started to get soft. Rinse the roots to remove any fungus that might have started to grow and then let them dry out for a day on the counter. Repot the plant the next morning and let it stay dry for a day or so before beginning a regular water regimen. If you caught it quickly enough, the plant should recover. Use your soil meter to prevent any future Christmas cactus problems, as the weakened plant might not withstand another bout of illness. Just in Case! Christmas cactus is one of the easiest plants from which to get cuttings. Choose healthy stems and root them in a glass of water or stick them into perlite or vermiculite to get roots started. Transplant them in a mixture of one part sand, one part potting mix and one part orchid bark for superior drainage. Use an unglazed pot to encourage evaporation of excess moisture. This will help ensure that you won’t have to worry again about saving an overwatered Christmas cactus. Provide full sun until a few weeks before the blooming period. Then allow it to have a dark period of at least 14 hours per day to promote flowering. Also, suspend watering for this period. Soon you will have a holiday cactus to brighten your festivities and share with friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant with bright blooms that appear around the winter holidays. Normally, blooms last at least one to two weeks. If conditions are just right, the impressive flowers may hang around for seven to eight weeks. Although the plant is relatively low-maintenance, dropping or wilting Christmas cactus blooms are usually an indication of improper watering or sudden temperature changes.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a striking plant with bright pink or red blooms that add festive color around the winter holidays. Unlike typical desert cactus, Christmas cactus is a tropical plant that grows in the Brazilian rainforest. The cactus is easy to grow and a cinch to propagate, but Christmas cactus has some unusual attributes that may cause you to wonder what’s going on with your plant. Let’s learn more about roots growing from Christmas cactus plants.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Does your cat think the dangling stem of a Christmas cactus makes an excellent toy? Does he/she treat the plant like a buffet or a litter box? Read on to find out how to handle cats and Christmas cactus.
Christmas Cactus & Cat Safety
When your cat eats a Christmas cactus, your first concern should be the health of the cat. Is Christmas cactus bad for cats? The answer depends on how you grow your plants. According to the ASPCA plant database, Christmas cactus is not toxic or poisonous to cats, but insecticides and other chemicals used on the plant may be toxic. In addition, a sensitive cat eating Christmas cactus may suffer an allergic reaction.
Carefully read the label of any chemicals you may have recently used on the plant. Look for cautions and warnings as well as information about how long the chemical remains on the plant. Contact your vet if you have any concerns. Cats love the feel of their paws in dirt, and once they discover this pleasure, it’s hard to keep them from digging in your plants and using them as litter boxes. Try covering the potting soil with a layer of pebbles to make it hard for kitty to dig down to the soil. For some cats, cayenne pepper sprinkled liberally over the plant and the soil acts as a deterrent. Pet stores sell a number of commercial cat deterrents. One of the best ways to keep the cat out of a Christmas cactus is to plant it in a hanging basket. Hang the basket where the cat can’t reach it, even with a well-executed and carefully planned jump.
Christmas Cactus Broken By Cat
When the cat breaks stems off of your Christmas cactus, you make new plants by rooting the stems. You’ll need stems with three to five segments. Lay the stems aside in an area out of direct sunlight for a day or two to let the broken end callus over. Plant them an inch deep in pots filled with potting soil that drains freely, such as cactus potting soil. Christmas cactus cuttings root best when the humidity is very high. You can maximize the humidity by enclosing the pots in a plastic bag. Cuttings root in three to eight weeks. Cats and Christmas cactus can live in the same house. Even if your cat isn’t showing any interest in your plant right now, he/she may take an interest later. Take steps now to prevent damage to the plant and harm to the cat.
Christmas Cactus & Cat Safety
When your cat eats a Christmas cactus, your first concern should be the health of the cat. Is Christmas cactus bad for cats? The answer depends on how you grow your plants. According to the ASPCA plant database, Christmas cactus is not toxic or poisonous to cats, but insecticides and other chemicals used on the plant may be toxic. In addition, a sensitive cat eating Christmas cactus may suffer an allergic reaction.
Carefully read the label of any chemicals you may have recently used on the plant. Look for cautions and warnings as well as information about how long the chemical remains on the plant. Contact your vet if you have any concerns. Cats love the feel of their paws in dirt, and once they discover this pleasure, it’s hard to keep them from digging in your plants and using them as litter boxes. Try covering the potting soil with a layer of pebbles to make it hard for kitty to dig down to the soil. For some cats, cayenne pepper sprinkled liberally over the plant and the soil acts as a deterrent. Pet stores sell a number of commercial cat deterrents. One of the best ways to keep the cat out of a Christmas cactus is to plant it in a hanging basket. Hang the basket where the cat can’t reach it, even with a well-executed and carefully planned jump.
Christmas Cactus Broken By Cat
When the cat breaks stems off of your Christmas cactus, you make new plants by rooting the stems. You’ll need stems with three to five segments. Lay the stems aside in an area out of direct sunlight for a day or two to let the broken end callus over. Plant them an inch deep in pots filled with potting soil that drains freely, such as cactus potting soil. Christmas cactus cuttings root best when the humidity is very high. You can maximize the humidity by enclosing the pots in a plastic bag. Cuttings root in three to eight weeks. Cats and Christmas cactus can live in the same house. Even if your cat isn’t showing any interest in your plant right now, he/she may take an interest later. Take steps now to prevent damage to the plant and harm to the cat.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Can I plant my Christmas cactus outside, you ask? Can Christmas cactus be outside? The answer is yes, but you can only grow the plant outdoors year round if you live in a warm climate because Christmas cactus is definitely not cold hardy. Growing Christmas cactus outdoors is possible only in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
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