文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It is easy to grow the Kalanchoe chandelier plant — so easy, in fact, you have to learn to control its spread as a part of caring for chandelier plants. Growing Kalanchoe delagoensis can be worth all this trouble when you learn how to keep it under control, especially when the orange blooms appear. Kalanchoe delagoensis, also known as Kalanchoe chandelier or mother of millions (and is often confused with mother of thousands, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), is an upright succulent with creeping tendrils bunching together on a single stem. This offers an unusual effect in the container or even in a portion of the sunny garden. Kalanchoe chandelier is hardy in drought stricken, desert areas where thriving plant life may be limited. This Kalanchoe species can exist on limited seasonal rainfall, storing water for existence due to succulent capabilities.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Growing mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) provides an attractive foliage houseplant. Though rarely blooming when kept indoors, the flowers of this plant are insignificant, with the most interesting feature being the baby plantlets continually appearing on the tips of the large leaves. When growing mother of thousands as an outdoor plant in USDA hardiness zones 9 -11, it may bloom with small, grayish lavender flowers in late winter. The mother plant then dies, but is replaced by tiny plantlets thatcan drop and cause the plant to be considered invasive. For this reason, most gardeners find growing mother of thousands works best in a container.Mother of Thousands Plant Info
Mother of thousands is of the Crassulaceae family and is related to jade plant and Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). It is often confused with the chandelier plant (Kalanchoe delagoensis) but shares similar growing conditions and traits. According to mother of thousands plant info, Kalanchoe daigremontiana has lost the ability to produce seeds and only reproduces from plantlets. As it is an abundant producer, it can quickly get out of hand when dropping these baby plantlets. While this provides numerous plants for the propagating gardener, those uninterested in the addition of more plants may find caring for mother of thousands a bit tedious. Don’t worry about disposing of the plantlets though, because more are sure to appear on the healthy, still growing mother of thousands. This succulent plant can resist drought, though performance is better when regularly watered. Like its relatives, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, does not need frequent fertilization. If you wish to feed when experimenting with how to grow Kalanchoe plants, do so only once every few months.
Caring for a Mother of Thousands
This plant does need good drainage and is best potted in a commercial cactus soil mix. If using standard potting soil, sand can be added for sharper drainage. When learning how to grow Kalanchoe indoors, locate the plant in bright, but indirect light for several hours per day. When growing Kalanchoe outdoors, avoid direct afternoon sun. Houseplants will benefit from spending the summer outside; just make sure to introduce them to the outside atmosphere gradually and begin their outdoor stay with limited morning sun. Too much direct sunlight may cause leaves to become sunburned. Remember to move the plant back inside before outdoor temperatures drop to the 40 degree F. range. (4 C.).
You’ll find that growing mother of thousands is simple and mostly carefree – a worthwhile gardening experience with limited care to keep it under control.
Mother of thousands is of the Crassulaceae family and is related to jade plant and Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). It is often confused with the chandelier plant (Kalanchoe delagoensis) but shares similar growing conditions and traits. According to mother of thousands plant info, Kalanchoe daigremontiana has lost the ability to produce seeds and only reproduces from plantlets. As it is an abundant producer, it can quickly get out of hand when dropping these baby plantlets. While this provides numerous plants for the propagating gardener, those uninterested in the addition of more plants may find caring for mother of thousands a bit tedious. Don’t worry about disposing of the plantlets though, because more are sure to appear on the healthy, still growing mother of thousands. This succulent plant can resist drought, though performance is better when regularly watered. Like its relatives, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, does not need frequent fertilization. If you wish to feed when experimenting with how to grow Kalanchoe plants, do so only once every few months.
Caring for a Mother of Thousands
This plant does need good drainage and is best potted in a commercial cactus soil mix. If using standard potting soil, sand can be added for sharper drainage. When learning how to grow Kalanchoe indoors, locate the plant in bright, but indirect light for several hours per day. When growing Kalanchoe outdoors, avoid direct afternoon sun. Houseplants will benefit from spending the summer outside; just make sure to introduce them to the outside atmosphere gradually and begin their outdoor stay with limited morning sun. Too much direct sunlight may cause leaves to become sunburned. Remember to move the plant back inside before outdoor temperatures drop to the 40 degree F. range. (4 C.).
You’ll find that growing mother of thousands is simple and mostly carefree – a worthwhile gardening experience with limited care to keep it under control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
I received a Kalanchoe as a gift plant this summer and I am now struggling to get it to bloom anew. Kalanchoe is an African native that has become a common house guest in North American homes. These plants require low light conditions to force budding. Ideally, the plant should experience 14 hours of lightless conditions to promote budding and bloom. Getting Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a bit of a rest period for the plant, correct lighting and some good fertilizer to fuel the process. A few tips on how to make a Kalanchoe rebloom will ensure success and a beautiful flowering houseplant in winter. 
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
What is a paddle plant? Also known as flapjack paddle plant (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), this succulent kalanchoe plant has with thick, rounded, paddle-shaped leaves. The plant is also known as red pancake because the leaves frequently take on a reddish or deep pink tint during the winter. Read on for tips on growing paddle plants.
How to Grow a Flapjack Paddle Plant
Growing paddle plants outdoors is possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and above, but gardeners in cooler climates can grow kalanchoe as an indoor plant.
Water kalanchoe only when the soil is dry. When watering indoor plants, allow the pot to drain completely before replacing the plant on its drainage saucer. Never overwater, as kalanchoe, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy soil. Water kalanchoe sparingly during the winter months. Outdoors, kalanchoe plants do well in full sunlight or light shade. Indoor plants perform best in bright light. However, avoid direct light during the summer months, as too much intense light may scorch the plant. Paddle plant prefers temperatures between 60 and 85 F. (16-29 C.). Avoid temperatures below 60 F. (16 C).
Outdoor plants require well-drained soil to prevent rotting. Indoor plants need a well-drained potting mix. A handful of sand is helpful, or you can use a potting mix formulated specifically for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, create your own mix by combining peat moss, compost and coarse sand. Fertilize paddle plant lightly during the growing season. Withhold fertilizer during fall and watering for both indoor and outdoor plants.
Paddle Plant Propagation
The easiest way to propagate kalanchoe is to plant leaves or leaf cuttings in spring or summer. Set leaves or cuttings aside for a couple of days, or until the cut end develops a callus. You can also remove offsets that grow on the side of a mature paddle plant. Plant the leaves or offsets in a small pot filled with lightly moistened potting mix for cacti and succulents. Keep the potting mix evenly and lightly moist but never soggy. Bright, indirect sunlight is best for paddle plant propagation. Once the plant is established and shows healthy new growth, you can treat it as a mature plant.
How to Grow a Flapjack Paddle Plant
Growing paddle plants outdoors is possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and above, but gardeners in cooler climates can grow kalanchoe as an indoor plant.
Water kalanchoe only when the soil is dry. When watering indoor plants, allow the pot to drain completely before replacing the plant on its drainage saucer. Never overwater, as kalanchoe, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy soil. Water kalanchoe sparingly during the winter months. Outdoors, kalanchoe plants do well in full sunlight or light shade. Indoor plants perform best in bright light. However, avoid direct light during the summer months, as too much intense light may scorch the plant. Paddle plant prefers temperatures between 60 and 85 F. (16-29 C.). Avoid temperatures below 60 F. (16 C).
Outdoor plants require well-drained soil to prevent rotting. Indoor plants need a well-drained potting mix. A handful of sand is helpful, or you can use a potting mix formulated specifically for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, create your own mix by combining peat moss, compost and coarse sand. Fertilize paddle plant lightly during the growing season. Withhold fertilizer during fall and watering for both indoor and outdoor plants.
Paddle Plant Propagation
The easiest way to propagate kalanchoe is to plant leaves or leaf cuttings in spring or summer. Set leaves or cuttings aside for a couple of days, or until the cut end develops a callus. You can also remove offsets that grow on the side of a mature paddle plant. Plant the leaves or offsets in a small pot filled with lightly moistened potting mix for cacti and succulents. Keep the potting mix evenly and lightly moist but never soggy. Bright, indirect sunlight is best for paddle plant propagation. Once the plant is established and shows healthy new growth, you can treat it as a mature plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
When it comes to indoor plants, a variegated ivy plant can add some sparkle and jazz to an otherwise boring room, but care of a variegated ivy differs somewhat from the care of other kinds of ivy. Read on to learn more about variegated ivy care.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
English ivy is a classic addition to any home, whether you grow it to cover a brick wall or plant it as an indoor vine as part of your room decor. Buying a lot of ivy for large plantings can be an expensive proposition, but you can get a large batch for free by rooting ivy plants in your home. Propagating English ivy (and most other types too) is a simple procedure than anyone can do with a few basic tools. Let’s learn more about the best way to root an ivy cutting.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
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sheepdog：find a piece with sm. roots on stems!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivies fill the gaps in both interior and exterior spaces with their flowing, textured leaves and won’t die attitudes, but even the hardiest of ivies may succumb to the occasional problem and develop yellow leaves. Ivy plant leaves turning yellow are rarely serious, though you should make some changes to improve your plant’s health.
Yellow Leaves on Ivy Plant
There are many causes of ivy turning yellow, including pests, disease and environmental stressors. Fortunately, these problems are simple to correct if they’re promptly identified. When your ivy leaves turn yellow, look for signs of these problems on your plant:
Environmental Stress
Yellowing leaves on ivy are often caused by a shock to the plant’s system. Leaves may yellow following transplantation or when exposed to drafts, dry air or when there are high levels of fertilizer salts in the soil. Check that your plant isn’t standing in water, move it from windows that receive direct sunlight and away from heating vents when you first notice yellow leaves. If the surface of the soil has white crystals on it, you may need to leach the salts from the planter by adding water equal to double the pot’s volume and allowing it to run out the bottom, taking the salts with it. Misting can help if dry air is the culprit, but don’t allow standing water on the leaves or you’ll encourage other diseases.
Pests
Mites are tiny arachnids, hardly detectable with the naked eye. These little guys literally suck the life out of plant cells, causing yellow dots to appear on leaf surfaces. As they spread out, the yellow dots grow together, resulting in widespread yellowing. Other signs include puckered or distorted leaves, leaves that drop easily and fine, silk threads near damage. Regular misting and treatment with insecticidal soap will destroy mites in no time. Whiteflies look like tiny, white moths, but suck the juices right out of plants, much like mites. They’re far easier to see and fly up a short distance when disturbed. They tend to congregate on the undersides of leaves in groups, spilling sticky honeydew on leaves and objects below. Whiteflies drown easily and frequent sprays with a garden hose or kitchen sprayer will send them packing.
Diseases
Bacterial spot erupts when the humidity is high. Bacteria enter the leaf through stomas or areas of damage, causing brown to black lesions surrounded by yellow halos or widespread speckling and deformity. Prune out severely diseased areas and treat the rest with a copper fungicide. In the future, avoid overhead watering or heavy misting that results in standing water on leaves.
Yellow Leaves on Ivy Plant
There are many causes of ivy turning yellow, including pests, disease and environmental stressors. Fortunately, these problems are simple to correct if they’re promptly identified. When your ivy leaves turn yellow, look for signs of these problems on your plant:
Environmental Stress
Yellowing leaves on ivy are often caused by a shock to the plant’s system. Leaves may yellow following transplantation or when exposed to drafts, dry air or when there are high levels of fertilizer salts in the soil. Check that your plant isn’t standing in water, move it from windows that receive direct sunlight and away from heating vents when you first notice yellow leaves. If the surface of the soil has white crystals on it, you may need to leach the salts from the planter by adding water equal to double the pot’s volume and allowing it to run out the bottom, taking the salts with it. Misting can help if dry air is the culprit, but don’t allow standing water on the leaves or you’ll encourage other diseases.
Pests
Mites are tiny arachnids, hardly detectable with the naked eye. These little guys literally suck the life out of plant cells, causing yellow dots to appear on leaf surfaces. As they spread out, the yellow dots grow together, resulting in widespread yellowing. Other signs include puckered or distorted leaves, leaves that drop easily and fine, silk threads near damage. Regular misting and treatment with insecticidal soap will destroy mites in no time. Whiteflies look like tiny, white moths, but suck the juices right out of plants, much like mites. They’re far easier to see and fly up a short distance when disturbed. They tend to congregate on the undersides of leaves in groups, spilling sticky honeydew on leaves and objects below. Whiteflies drown easily and frequent sprays with a garden hose or kitchen sprayer will send them packing.
Diseases
Bacterial spot erupts when the humidity is high. Bacteria enter the leaf through stomas or areas of damage, causing brown to black lesions surrounded by yellow halos or widespread speckling and deformity. Prune out severely diseased areas and treat the rest with a copper fungicide. In the future, avoid overhead watering or heavy misting that results in standing water on leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivy can make a wonderful, bright light houseplant. It can grow long and lush and bring a bit of the outdoors inside. Growing ivy indoors is easy as long as you know what makes an ivy plant happy. Let’s learn a little bit more about ivy and proper ivy plant care.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
You might have to be a fan of the once popular television show MASH to know Loretta Swit, the actress who played Hotlips Hoolihan. However, you don’t have to be a fan to find an excellent representation of the name in the plant world. Hot lips plant has just the kind of pucker you might expect from the moniker, but the pair of lips are actually the plant’s flower. What is hot lips plant? Read on for more hot lips plant info and tips on growing this unique specimen.
What is Hot Lips Plant?
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which hot lips falls. Where does hot lips grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions. Hot lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds here in the States. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Additional hot lips plant info tells us that the plant is also called hooker’s lips but hot lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Where Does Hot Lips Plant Grow?
Hot lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humic from leaf litter — moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees. Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing hot lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing hot lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant. Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70 F. (21 C.), humidity of at least 60 percent and indirect bright lighting.
What is Hot Lips Plant?
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which hot lips falls. Where does hot lips grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions. Hot lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds here in the States. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Additional hot lips plant info tells us that the plant is also called hooker’s lips but hot lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Where Does Hot Lips Plant Grow?
Hot lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humic from leaf litter — moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees. Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing hot lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing hot lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant. Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70 F. (21 C.), humidity of at least 60 percent and indirect bright lighting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Fat juicy leaves and translucent flesh are the hallmarks of Haworthia window plant. Not all Haworthia have the see-through leaves, but those that do are spectacular specimens of the genus. Learning how to grow Haworthia is relatively easy, as they are a low maintenance and hardy little plant. Caring for window plants is very much like caring for their cousins, the Aloes.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Grape ivy is one of the finest indoor vines a gardener can grow. It’s hardy, looks nice and springs back despite a great deal of neglect. Because of this, many people are surprised to hear about grape ivy plant problems, but they do suffer a few. Yellow leaves on grape ivy are by far the most common and can be caused by a couple of different mechanisms. Read on to learn more about grape ivy with yellow leaves.
0Causes of Yellow Grape Ivy
When your grape ivy is turning yellow, you may be really concerned that it won’t survive the ordeal – and you may be right. Although there’s not much that can get these hardy plants down, yellow leaves can be a sign of serious distress. It’s time to do a little detective work to find out what’s causing your plant’s problem. By far, the two most common causes of yellow leaves on grape ivy are spider mites and root rot. Both are treatable if caught early. Here’s what to watch for and what to do if you find it:
Spider Mites. Spider mites leave a characteristic thin spider-like web on your plants, along with pin-sized yellow spots on leaves that aren’t fully affected yet. If you suspect spider mites, washing the plant thoroughly once a week and increasing the humidity around it can help keep them at bay. If they’re persistent, a miticide is in order. Apply it carefully, and per the package instructions.
Root Rot. Root rot is the direct result of overwatering. In a plant like grape ivy, which prefers a dry soil, root rot can be a serious problem long before you realize. It can manifest in several ways, but yellow or wilting leaves are typical signs that your plant’s roots aren’t doing their job.
Remove the plant from its pot and clean the dirt out of the root ball gently. If many of the roots are brown, black, smell terrible or appear dead, you’ve got a problem. Trim back all the sickly roots and repot your plant into a container that drains quickly. Make sure to use a fast-draining potting soil, such as a palm or cactus mix. Water the plant when the soil feels dry and never leave it standing in a saucer full of water.
0Causes of Yellow Grape Ivy
When your grape ivy is turning yellow, you may be really concerned that it won’t survive the ordeal – and you may be right. Although there’s not much that can get these hardy plants down, yellow leaves can be a sign of serious distress. It’s time to do a little detective work to find out what’s causing your plant’s problem. By far, the two most common causes of yellow leaves on grape ivy are spider mites and root rot. Both are treatable if caught early. Here’s what to watch for and what to do if you find it:
Spider Mites. Spider mites leave a characteristic thin spider-like web on your plants, along with pin-sized yellow spots on leaves that aren’t fully affected yet. If you suspect spider mites, washing the plant thoroughly once a week and increasing the humidity around it can help keep them at bay. If they’re persistent, a miticide is in order. Apply it carefully, and per the package instructions.
Root Rot. Root rot is the direct result of overwatering. In a plant like grape ivy, which prefers a dry soil, root rot can be a serious problem long before you realize. It can manifest in several ways, but yellow or wilting leaves are typical signs that your plant’s roots aren’t doing their job.
Remove the plant from its pot and clean the dirt out of the root ball gently. If many of the roots are brown, black, smell terrible or appear dead, you’ve got a problem. Trim back all the sickly roots and repot your plant into a container that drains quickly. Make sure to use a fast-draining potting soil, such as a palm or cactus mix. Water the plant when the soil feels dry and never leave it standing in a saucer full of water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It’s possible to grow plants in water year round with very little investment of time or effort. Hydroponic plant environments aren’t as complicated as they sound, as plants grown in water simply need water, oxygen, a jar or other support to keep the plants upright – and, of course, the proper mix of nutrients to keep the plant healthy. Once you’ve determined the best fertilizer for water grown plants, the rest, as they say, is a piece of cake! Read on to learn how to fertilize plants in water.
Feeding Houseplants Growing in Water
Although plants get some important elements from the air, they draw most of their nutrients through their roots. For those grown in hydroponic plant environments, it’s up to us to provide fertilizer in the water.
If you’re serious about creating hydroponic plant environments, it’s a good idea to have your water tested before you begin. Often, water contains a significant amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium and chloride, and in some cases, may contain excessive amounts of boron and manganese.
On the other hand, iron, potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and certain micronutrients may be lacking. A water test reveals exactly what your water needs in order for plants to flourish. As a general rule, however, feeding houseplants growing in water isn’t that complicated and unless you’re a chemistry buff, there’s really no need to stress over a complicated formulation of nutrients.
How to Fertilize Plants in Water
Simply add a good quality, water-soluble fertilizer to the container every time you change the water – usually every four to six weeks, or sooner if half of the water has evaporated. Use a weak solution consisting of one-quarter the strength recommended on the fertilizer container. If your plants are looking a little puny or if the foliage is pale, you can mist the leaves with a weak fertilizer solution weekly. For best results, use bottled spring water, rain water or well water, as city water tends to be heavily chlorinated and devoid of most natural nutrients.
Feeding Houseplants Growing in Water
Although plants get some important elements from the air, they draw most of their nutrients through their roots. For those grown in hydroponic plant environments, it’s up to us to provide fertilizer in the water.
If you’re serious about creating hydroponic plant environments, it’s a good idea to have your water tested before you begin. Often, water contains a significant amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium and chloride, and in some cases, may contain excessive amounts of boron and manganese.
On the other hand, iron, potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and certain micronutrients may be lacking. A water test reveals exactly what your water needs in order for plants to flourish. As a general rule, however, feeding houseplants growing in water isn’t that complicated and unless you’re a chemistry buff, there’s really no need to stress over a complicated formulation of nutrients.
How to Fertilize Plants in Water
Simply add a good quality, water-soluble fertilizer to the container every time you change the water – usually every four to six weeks, or sooner if half of the water has evaporated. Use a weak solution consisting of one-quarter the strength recommended on the fertilizer container. If your plants are looking a little puny or if the foliage is pale, you can mist the leaves with a weak fertilizer solution weekly. For best results, use bottled spring water, rain water or well water, as city water tends to be heavily chlorinated and devoid of most natural nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
A small plant on your desk makes your work day a little cheerier by bringing a bit of nature indoors. Office plants may even boost your creativity and make you feel more productive. As an added bonus, plants have been proven to improve indoor air quality. What’s not to like? Read on and learn how to care for an office plant.
Caring for Desk Plants
Office plant care is important and not as involved as one would think, provided you focus on the needs of the plant chosen. Various plants have different needs, so pay attention to watering, light and other possible desk plant maintenance that may be required.
Improper watering – either too much water or not enough – is usually to blame when office plant care goes awry. Water office plants slowly, using lukewarm water, until water trickles through the drainage hole, but only when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Never water if the soil still feels damp from the previous watering. Allow the plant to drain thoroughly and never allow the pot to stand in water. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this. Either take the plant to a sink and water it straight from the tap, then let it drain before returning it to the saucer. If you don’t have a sink, water the plant, allow it to drain for a few minutes, and then pour excess water out of the saucer.
Lighting
Some plants, such as cast iron plant, can get by with very little light. Others, including most types of cactus, require bright light. If your office plant needs light, put it near a window, but not too close because intense, hot sunlight will scorch most plants. If you don’t have a window, a fluorescent light near the plant is the next best thing.
Additional Care for Plants in the Office
Fertilize desk plants every other month during spring and summer using a general purpose, water-soluble fertilizer. Always water after fertilizing to prevent damage to the roots. Transplant desk plants when they get too large for their pots – usually every couple of years. Move the plant to a container just one size larger. It may seem like a good idea to move the plant to a larger pot, but all that damp potting mix can rot the roots and kill the plant. Place your plant away from air conditioners, heating vents or drafty windows. Ask a friend or co-worker to take care of your plant if you’re sick or on vacation. Some plants can tolerate a certain amount of neglect, but too much may kill them.
Caring for Desk Plants
Office plant care is important and not as involved as one would think, provided you focus on the needs of the plant chosen. Various plants have different needs, so pay attention to watering, light and other possible desk plant maintenance that may be required.
Improper watering – either too much water or not enough – is usually to blame when office plant care goes awry. Water office plants slowly, using lukewarm water, until water trickles through the drainage hole, but only when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Never water if the soil still feels damp from the previous watering. Allow the plant to drain thoroughly and never allow the pot to stand in water. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this. Either take the plant to a sink and water it straight from the tap, then let it drain before returning it to the saucer. If you don’t have a sink, water the plant, allow it to drain for a few minutes, and then pour excess water out of the saucer.
Lighting
Some plants, such as cast iron plant, can get by with very little light. Others, including most types of cactus, require bright light. If your office plant needs light, put it near a window, but not too close because intense, hot sunlight will scorch most plants. If you don’t have a window, a fluorescent light near the plant is the next best thing.
Additional Care for Plants in the Office
Fertilize desk plants every other month during spring and summer using a general purpose, water-soluble fertilizer. Always water after fertilizing to prevent damage to the roots. Transplant desk plants when they get too large for their pots – usually every couple of years. Move the plant to a container just one size larger. It may seem like a good idea to move the plant to a larger pot, but all that damp potting mix can rot the roots and kill the plant. Place your plant away from air conditioners, heating vents or drafty windows. Ask a friend or co-worker to take care of your plant if you’re sick or on vacation. Some plants can tolerate a certain amount of neglect, but too much may kill them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus are one of the most common and easy to grow houseplants. In fact, they are so easy to grow indoors that occasionally the plants outgrow their site. Ficus plants don’t like to be moved, so the best option is to prune the plant to keep it manageable. Let’s talk about how to prune a ficus tree and, more importantly for the plant’s health, when should ficus be pruned? Ficus are not winter hardy and are generally grown as houseplants in the United States and other parts of the world. They are native to tropical and subtropical regions and are considered part of this type of exterior landscaping in warm zones. Indoor plants have slow, steady growth but can become heavy on the ends and lose their arching shape. Rejuvenation pruning will make the plant more compact and enhance proper branch formation.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus trees are a common plant in the home and office, mainly because they look like a typical tree with a single trunk and a spreading canopy. But for all of their popularity, ficus plants are finicky. However, if you know how to care for a ficus tree, you’ll be better equipped with keeping it healthy and happy in your home for years.
Learn About Ficus Houseplants
What is commonly referred to as a ficus is technically a weeping fig. It’s a member of the Ficus genus of plants, which also includes rubber trees and fig fruit trees, but when it comes to houseplants, most people refer to a weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) as simply a ficus. Ficus trees can maintain their tree-like shape regardless of their size, so this makes them ideal for bonsais or for massive houseplants in large spaces. Their leaves can be either dark green or variegated. In recent years, some imaginative nurseries have started to take advantage of their pliable trunks to braid or twist the plants into different forms.
Growing Ficus Indoors
Most ficus trees enjoy bright indirect or filtered light with variegated varieties happily able to take medium light. Bright, direct light may result in scalding of the leaves and leaf loss. Ficus trees also cannot tolerate low temperatures or drafts. They need to be kept in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.) and actually prefer temperatures above 70 F. (21 C.). Cold drafts from windows or doors will harm them, so make sure to place them somewhere where drafts will not be an issue.
How to Care for a Ficus Tree
When growing ficus indoors, it’s important to maintain a relatively high humidity around the plant. Regular misting or setting the ficus tree on a pebble tray filled with water is a great way to increase their humidity, but keep in mind that while they like high humidity, they don’t like overly wet roots. Therefore, when watering, always check the top of the soil first. If the top of the soil is wet, don’t water as this means they have enough moisture. If the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, this indicates that they need water. Also while caring for a ficus plant, be aware that they are rapid growers and require plenty of nutrients to grow well. Fertilize once a month in the spring and summer and once every two months in the fall and winter.
Common Problems When Caring for a Ficus Plant
Almost everyone who has owned a ficus tree has asked themselves at some point, “Why is my ficus tree dropping its leaves?” A ficus tree losing its leaves is the most common problem these plants have. Leaf drop is a ficus tree’s standard reaction to stress, whether it’s from any of the following: Under watering or over watering Low humidity Too little light Relocation or repotting Drafts Change in temperature (too hot or cold) Pests If your ficus is losing its leaves, go through the checklist of proper ficus tree care and correct anything that you find wrong. Ficus are also prone to pests such as mealybugs, scale and spider mites. A healthy ficus tree will not see these problems, but a stressed ficus tree (likely losing leaves) will surely develop a pest problem quickly. “Sap” dripping from a ficus houseplant, which is actually honeydew from an invading pest, is a sure sign of an infestation. Treating the plant with neem oil is a good way to handle any of these pest issues.
Learn About Ficus Houseplants
What is commonly referred to as a ficus is technically a weeping fig. It’s a member of the Ficus genus of plants, which also includes rubber trees and fig fruit trees, but when it comes to houseplants, most people refer to a weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) as simply a ficus. Ficus trees can maintain their tree-like shape regardless of their size, so this makes them ideal for bonsais or for massive houseplants in large spaces. Their leaves can be either dark green or variegated. In recent years, some imaginative nurseries have started to take advantage of their pliable trunks to braid or twist the plants into different forms.
Growing Ficus Indoors
Most ficus trees enjoy bright indirect or filtered light with variegated varieties happily able to take medium light. Bright, direct light may result in scalding of the leaves and leaf loss. Ficus trees also cannot tolerate low temperatures or drafts. They need to be kept in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.) and actually prefer temperatures above 70 F. (21 C.). Cold drafts from windows or doors will harm them, so make sure to place them somewhere where drafts will not be an issue.
How to Care for a Ficus Tree
When growing ficus indoors, it’s important to maintain a relatively high humidity around the plant. Regular misting or setting the ficus tree on a pebble tray filled with water is a great way to increase their humidity, but keep in mind that while they like high humidity, they don’t like overly wet roots. Therefore, when watering, always check the top of the soil first. If the top of the soil is wet, don’t water as this means they have enough moisture. If the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, this indicates that they need water. Also while caring for a ficus plant, be aware that they are rapid growers and require plenty of nutrients to grow well. Fertilize once a month in the spring and summer and once every two months in the fall and winter.
Common Problems When Caring for a Ficus Plant
Almost everyone who has owned a ficus tree has asked themselves at some point, “Why is my ficus tree dropping its leaves?” A ficus tree losing its leaves is the most common problem these plants have. Leaf drop is a ficus tree’s standard reaction to stress, whether it’s from any of the following: Under watering or over watering Low humidity Too little light Relocation or repotting Drafts Change in temperature (too hot or cold) Pests If your ficus is losing its leaves, go through the checklist of proper ficus tree care and correct anything that you find wrong. Ficus are also prone to pests such as mealybugs, scale and spider mites. A healthy ficus tree will not see these problems, but a stressed ficus tree (likely losing leaves) will surely develop a pest problem quickly. “Sap” dripping from a ficus houseplant, which is actually honeydew from an invading pest, is a sure sign of an infestation. Treating the plant with neem oil is a good way to handle any of these pest issues.
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