文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata), a crested form of mottled spurge (Euphorbia lactea), offers convoluted, fan-shaped green growth marked with silver. Recently, plant sellers have begun to graft coral cactus fans in a variety of colors onto the stems of other succulents or cacti. The resulting plants are called variegated coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata variegata). All these euphorbias are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. They also are poisonous and their white sap can inflame the eyes, mucous membranes and skin.
Outdoor Care
If you wish to try the original ungrafted green form of coral cactus outdoors, plant it in a sunny or partly sunny position in well-drained soil and mulch it with gravel. Unless your climate is very dry, it's a good idea to place cacti in a raised bed ringed by rocks and filled with a combination of 1 part garden soil and 1 part sand or decomposed granite.
During spring through autumn, water an outdoor coral cactus about once a week when there is no rain. Don't water it at all during the winter. Since cacti in the ground don't need much fertilizer, feed the plant only once in midsummer.
For a liquid chemical fertilizer such as 10-10-5, combine 1 tablespoon of the solution with 1 gallon of water, or use 4 tablespoons of solution per gallon of water for a liquid organic type such as 3-3-3. Mix the fertilizer in a watering can and pour it into the soil around the cactus.
Indoor Potting
The grafted types of coral cactus often are planted in a pot which has been mulched with glued-down gravel. Although the gravel prevents soil from splashing onto the plant, it also may prevent testing the moisture of the soil. If such is the case, try to remove the gravel without harming the cactus.
Use barbecue tongs and/or a strap made from folded newspaper to lift the plant, to protect your hands from its sap and spines. Replant it in a pot with drainage holes, either in cactus potting soil or in a mix of 1 part general-purpose potting soil and 1 part sand. You can mulch the soil with fine gravel again, but make that loose gravel, so you can feel beneath it.
Indoor Care
Place a coral cactus on a warm windowsill where temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Although the original green, non-grafted type can take full sun, grafted cultivars should receive sunlight only for several hours in the morning or afternoon, but not during the brightest midday hours.
During spring through summer, water the plant once a week or once every two weeks, whenever its soil feels dry 1 inch down. Reduce that watering to once a month during autumn and winter, as cacti can rot during those seasons if kept too wet, and resume the weekly or biweekly watering in early spring.
Fertilize your indoor cactus once every two weeks during spring and summer with a liquid 10-10-10 plant food at one quarter strength. That would be about 3 to 4 drops of the plant food in 1 quart of water. Refrain from feeding the plant during autumn and winter.
Cactus Pests
If pests such as furry white mealy-bugs or bumpy brown scale appear on your cactus, clean them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Don't use insecticidal soap, which can be damaging to euphorbias.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The best way to keep your cactus from turning brown is to ensure that its environment is one that's conducive to growing a healthy plant. Quarantine new plants and inspect them for pests and disease before exposing them to your other plants. Provide loose, clean, well-drained soil. Underwater, don't overwater, your plants.
Root Rot
If the base of your cactus is turning brown and the stems are soft and yellow, it could be a sign of root rot. Plants with root rot can be hard to save because the rot starts inside the cactus and works its way out, so symptoms aren't usually noticed until the rot is advanced. Stop watering plants with early rot, and try repotting them in well-draining soil. You can try saving a plant with advanced root rot by cutting away all signs of rot along with some of the healthy tissue surrounding it to ensure that it doesn't spread. Use a clean knife and wipe it with alcohol in between cuts. Apply sulfur powder to the wounds. Overwatering or damaged roots can cause root rot.
Scales
Scales are small insects that appear like brown spots on cacti because of their hard brown shell coverings. The scales feed on plant juices, weakening cacti and making them look yellow. Spray your cactus with a stream of water to remove scales, or wash your plant with a weak solution of detergent. Use malathion insecticide for large infestations. You can also kill scales by using a cotton swab to dab horticultural oil on each scale. This cuts off the scale's air supply so it suffocates.
Mites
Red spider mites are small reddish insects. They're so small that it's easier to look for their webs rather than the bugs themselves. Symptoms include white spots that turn rusty brown and usually appear at the top of the plant. If left untreated, mites kill your cactus by eating the entire outer layer of tissue off your plant. Water cacti from overhead with a strong stream of water to remove mites. Miticides can be used for large infestations.
Corking
The appearance of firm, brown, barklike tissue just above the soil of an otherwise healthy plant is a sign of corking and is part of the natural aging process of cacti. Corking always starts from the base of the cactus and moves upward. If a cactus turns brown from the top down, it's a sign of sunburn or some other problem.
Sunburn
Mild sunburn problems appear as a whitish discoloring, usually at the top and side facing the sun. Severe burns show up as hard brown scars on the burned surface. Cacti with brown scars have permanent damage. If your plant only has whitish discoloring, you can heal it by moving it into the shade. Cacti that aren't used to being in the sun have to be acclimated to it by providing full sun for a short time each day and then increasing exposure over a period of several weeks. Some species should never have full sun all day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The starfish cactus is also called carrion flower due to the strong unpleasant odor of its fleshlike flowers. The plant is a succulent from South Africa with starfish-shaped flowers and long, slender, spiked branches. The flower attracts flies not only with its potent smell but also with the soft white fur that covers the flower and resembles mold covering rotting flesh. There are about 100 species in the plant's family, Asclepiadaceae, which includes several other fly-attracting blooms.
The Cactus
Several varieties of the starfish cactus exist. They all have the green branching arms that are tinged red in high-sun situations. The arms are barbed with thick white spines. The stems have four angles arrayed up the length and are an inch thick on average. The plant itself reaches 9 inches tall and has a wider spreading habit. Some of the varieties of cactus are considered rare in South Africa, a condition caused by loss of habitat.
Carrion Flowers
The flowers of the starfish plant may extend 10 inches across. The flowers are five-pointed and flesh-colored, although some have a grayish cast and others have a rosy glow. The larger species bear flowers at the base of the plant and smaller blooming species may have flowers scattered over the cactus. Each flower only lasts a few days but may die out and become replaced by another bloom. The petals have a grainy texture and pores that resemble skin.
Bloom Time
The blooming time of starfish cacti depends on where they are being raised, the amount of sun and water they receive, the fertility of the soil and the variety. On average, you can expect a baby plant to bloom in two years with just one or two flowers. When it is mature, the plant will bloom successively in July to September in North America. They flower in November through March in South Africa where they are native. Blooms are rare and rely upon prime growing conditions.
Pollination and Fruit
The stench is the attracting part of the flower, but its resemblance to flesh actually confuses flies into laying their eggs on the interior. The interior structure of the flower is webbed, which traps the legs of the flies. As they struggle, a pollen packet is attached to the insect's leg and they move on to the next flower. After the flower has finished, it sheds the petals and the ovary swells. Eventually, it bears a number of slightly hairy seeds. Seed is easy to start, but the plant will not bear flowers for many years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Taking cuttings from a cactus plant is an easy method of propagation, as long as you're careful around the spines! Pad-forming, columnar, or segmented cacti can all be cloned in this way. Since cacti are drought-tolerant, cuttings will not suffer when exposed to the air, and actually prefer to dry out in order to propagate. Ideally, plant in the springtime when cacti are beginning to initiate new growth. Cuttings will only propagate successfully during certain months. When nighttime temperatures are 60 degrees F and above, its a good time to take cuttings.
Step 1
Cut a cactus segment using a sharp, clean knife -- ideally, serrated. If cloning a pad cactus, cut between the pads. Cut a columnar cactus anywhere along the stem at a 45-degree angle. Cuttings can vary greatly in size, from immature globes to meter-long stem pieces.
Step 2
Square off the base of the cutting and let it sit in a warm, dry place until it dries. If it is not allowed to dry, the tip may rot. Wait until a callus forms, which will protect it from soil-borne diseases. This can take one to 14 days.
Step 3
Fill growing containers with a propagation mix of 1/2 organic and 1/2 inorganic material, ideally peat or compost and pumice or perlite. Place cuttings deeply into the mix, ensuring they will not topple over. Columnar cacti may need to be placed especially deep.
Step 4
Provide plenty of sunshine and cool temperatures for the first few months as the cutting is taking hold. Avoid over-watering in these early stages, as it may lead to rot. Gallon-size containers can sustain the cuttings for the first year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Sometimes if a plant is overwatered, it just doesn’t seem to recover afterwards. The leaves start to get dull and turn yellow and the whole plant seems to be on a slippery slope towards death. You try to correct the watering issue but nothing seems to help. Chances are, your plant is suffering from root rot. What is Root Rot? Root rot can have two sources — one is a prolonged exposure to overwatered conditions that can cause some of the roots to die back due to a lack of oxygen. As they die, they can start to decay or rot away. The rot can then spread to healthier roots and kill them as well, even if the soil conditions are corrected. The other source can be from a fungus in the soil. The fungus may lay dormant in soil indefinitely and then may suddenly flourish when the plant is overwatered once or twice. The root rot fungus attacks the roots and causes them to die and rot away.
What Does Root Rot Look Like?
If you are unsure whether your plant has root rot, you may be wondering what does root rot look like? If the plant is slowly wilting and the leaves are turning yellow for seemingly unknown reasons, you will want to check the roots. Remove the plant from the soil and feel the roots. The roots affected by root rot will look black and will feel mushy. Affected roots may literally fall off the plant when you touch them. Healthy roots may be black or pale, but they will feel firm and pliable.
Treating Root Rot
Whether the problem is prolonged overwatering or a single overwatering that caused a root rot fungus flare up, you must act quickly. Treating root rot ASAP will give you plant the best chance to survive. Start to treat root rot by removing the plant from the soil and washing the roots under running water. Wash away as much soil and affected roots as possible while being gentle with the plant. Next use a sharp, clean pair of shears or scissors to trim away all of the remaining affected roots. When you treat root rot, you may have to remove a significant amount of the root system if the plant is badly affected. If this is the case, clean the shears or scissor with rubbing alcohol and prune back one-third to one-half of the leaves on the plant. This will give the plant a better chance to regrow the roots, as it will not need to support as many leaves.
Continue treating root rot by disposing of the soil in the pot that the plant was in. Wash the pot thoroughly with a bleach solution. If possible, dip the remaining healthy roots in a fungicide solution to kill off any possible root rot fungus. After treating root rot in the plant, repot the plant in clean potting mix. Make sure the container has good drainage and only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry. While the plant is regrowing its roots, do not fertilize the plant, as this may stress it. You do not want to have to treat root rot again in the plant. Hopefully now the plant will recover and you will get your beautiful houseplant back.
What Does Root Rot Look Like?
If you are unsure whether your plant has root rot, you may be wondering what does root rot look like? If the plant is slowly wilting and the leaves are turning yellow for seemingly unknown reasons, you will want to check the roots. Remove the plant from the soil and feel the roots. The roots affected by root rot will look black and will feel mushy. Affected roots may literally fall off the plant when you touch them. Healthy roots may be black or pale, but they will feel firm and pliable.
Treating Root Rot
Whether the problem is prolonged overwatering or a single overwatering that caused a root rot fungus flare up, you must act quickly. Treating root rot ASAP will give you plant the best chance to survive. Start to treat root rot by removing the plant from the soil and washing the roots under running water. Wash away as much soil and affected roots as possible while being gentle with the plant. Next use a sharp, clean pair of shears or scissors to trim away all of the remaining affected roots. When you treat root rot, you may have to remove a significant amount of the root system if the plant is badly affected. If this is the case, clean the shears or scissor with rubbing alcohol and prune back one-third to one-half of the leaves on the plant. This will give the plant a better chance to regrow the roots, as it will not need to support as many leaves.
Continue treating root rot by disposing of the soil in the pot that the plant was in. Wash the pot thoroughly with a bleach solution. If possible, dip the remaining healthy roots in a fungicide solution to kill off any possible root rot fungus. After treating root rot in the plant, repot the plant in clean potting mix. Make sure the container has good drainage and only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry. While the plant is regrowing its roots, do not fertilize the plant, as this may stress it. You do not want to have to treat root rot again in the plant. Hopefully now the plant will recover and you will get your beautiful houseplant back.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
If your plant has started to look like it has been spending time sitting next to a fire and is now covered in a black soot, chances are, your plant is suffering from sooty mold. How to get rid of sooty mold can be a perplexing question as it may seem that it appears out of nowhere, but it is a fixable problem. What is Sooty Mold? Sooty mold is a type of plant mold. It is a type of mold that growing in the honeydew or secretion of many common plant pests, such as aphids or scale. The pests cover the leaves of your plant in honeydew and the sooty mold spore lands on the honeydew and begins to reproduce.
Symptoms of Sooty Plant Mold Growth
Sooty mold looks a lot like the name implies. Your plant’s twigs, branches or leaves will be covered in a grimy, black soot. Many people believe that someone may have dumped ashes or may have even caught the plant on fire when they first see this plant mold. Most plants affected by this plant mold growth will also have some sort of pest problem. Some plants, like gardenias and roses, which are prone to pest problems, will be more susceptible to this plant mold growth.
How to Get Rid of Sooty Mold Treating plant mold like sooty mold is best done by treating the source of the problem. This would be the pests that excrete the honeydew the mold needs to live. First, determine which pest you have and then eliminate it from your plant. Once the pest problem has been solved, the sooty plant mold growth can be easily washed off the leaves, stems and branches. Neem oil is an effective treatment for both the pest problem and fungus.
Will Sooty Mold Kill My Plant? This plant mold growth is generally not lethal to plants, but the pests that it needs to grow can kill a plant. At the first sign of sooty mold, find the pest that is producing the honeydew and eliminate it.
Symptoms of Sooty Plant Mold Growth
Sooty mold looks a lot like the name implies. Your plant’s twigs, branches or leaves will be covered in a grimy, black soot. Many people believe that someone may have dumped ashes or may have even caught the plant on fire when they first see this plant mold. Most plants affected by this plant mold growth will also have some sort of pest problem. Some plants, like gardenias and roses, which are prone to pest problems, will be more susceptible to this plant mold growth.
How to Get Rid of Sooty Mold Treating plant mold like sooty mold is best done by treating the source of the problem. This would be the pests that excrete the honeydew the mold needs to live. First, determine which pest you have and then eliminate it from your plant. Once the pest problem has been solved, the sooty plant mold growth can be easily washed off the leaves, stems and branches. Neem oil is an effective treatment for both the pest problem and fungus.
Will Sooty Mold Kill My Plant? This plant mold growth is generally not lethal to plants, but the pests that it needs to grow can kill a plant. At the first sign of sooty mold, find the pest that is producing the honeydew and eliminate it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
While there are numerous diseases affecting plants, the plant disease fire blight, which is caused by bacteria (Erwinia amylovora), affects trees and shrubs in orchards, nurseries, and landscape plantings; therefore, no one is safe from its path. Plant Disease: Fire Blight The plant disease fire blight is oftentimes influenced by seasonal weather and generally attacks the plant’s blossoms, gradually moving to the twigs, and then the branches. Fire blight gets its name from the burnt appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a common problem in areas that have high humidity. It can affect almost any type of plant, appearing on leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables. A white or gray powder coats the surface of the plant. If left untreated, it can turn more severe, causing leaves to turn yellow or brown. Many people look to a homemade cure for powdery mildew before turning to fungicides. However, finding a powdery mildew homemade preventer is preferable.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Plant rust is a general term that refers to a rather large family of fungi that attack plants. Frequently, when a plant is affected by rust fungi, many gardeners feel at a loss as to what to do. Rust treatment as a plant disease is startling but can be treated.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
By Jackie Rhoades You’re strolling through your garden enjoying the lush growth the spring rains have produced. You stop to admire one particular specimen and you notice black spots on plant leaves. Closer inspection shows black spots on leaves throughout a whole section of your garden. This can’t be! You don’t have any roses. Unfortunately, you don’t need them. Your garden has been infected with black spot fungus.
What is Black Spot Fungus?
Don’t let the name fool you. Diplocarpon rosae, or black spot fungus, isn’t just a disease of roses. It can attack any plant with fleshy leaves and stems if the conditions are right. You’ve already taken the first step in treating black leaf spot. You’ve been inspecting your garden on a regular basis and you’ve caught it early. Black spot fungus begins to develop in the spring when temperatures reach into the sixties and the garden has been continuously wet for six to nine hours. By the time temperatures reach into the seventies, the disease is running rampant and won’t slow down until the daytime temperatures rise above 85 F. (29 C.). It starts with tiny black spots on leaves, no bigger than a pinhead. As the fungus develops, those black spots on leaves are ringed with yellow. Soon the entire leaf turns yellow and falls.
Treating Black Leaf Spot Fungus
Getting rid of black leaf spot must be a two-pronged attack. Because its spores travel on the wind and plash from leaf to leaf during watering, treating black leaf spot should be first on your agenda. There are several good fungicides on the market, several of which claim to be organic. They come in handy bottle sprayers, but if your garden is large, you might want to buy it as a concentrate to mix in your tank sprayer. Neem oil is another alternative for treating black leaf spot. It’s an oil pressed from an evergreen tree. It’s all natural and has shown some remarkable results as an effective garden fungicide. For those of you who prefer Grandma’s solutions to garden problems, try this: Mix one heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a gallon of water for your sprayer. Add a dash of horticultural oil or horticultural soap and Voila! You have a method of treating black leaf spot that works by changing the pH on the leaf surface to one the fungus can’t survive. The oil or soap makes the solution stick and the cost is around four cents a gallon.
The next step in getting rid of black leaf spot is prevention and maintenance. The first, we already talked about. Inspect your garden regularly in the spring. Black spots on plant tissues will spread quickly. Start preventative spraying before the temperatures hit sixty. Read the label directions for the method you choose and follow it closely. For Grandma’s recipe, a light weekly dose should be sufficient. Continue spraying until temperatures are hot enough to get rid of black spot fungus without. Avoid watering your plants on cloudy days. Bright sun and good air circulation are essential for getting rid of black leaf spot. During an outbreak, all affected debris should be disposed of. It may not be ideal as far as looks go, but affected plants should be cut back, and in the fall every bit of garden debris should be thrown away or burned. The spores can overwinter on plant material, but can’t survive in bare soil. The good news is that black spot fungus rarely kills the host plant. Getting rid of black leaf spot takes a lot of diligence, but in the end, the rewards are worth it.
What is Black Spot Fungus?
Don’t let the name fool you. Diplocarpon rosae, or black spot fungus, isn’t just a disease of roses. It can attack any plant with fleshy leaves and stems if the conditions are right. You’ve already taken the first step in treating black leaf spot. You’ve been inspecting your garden on a regular basis and you’ve caught it early. Black spot fungus begins to develop in the spring when temperatures reach into the sixties and the garden has been continuously wet for six to nine hours. By the time temperatures reach into the seventies, the disease is running rampant and won’t slow down until the daytime temperatures rise above 85 F. (29 C.). It starts with tiny black spots on leaves, no bigger than a pinhead. As the fungus develops, those black spots on leaves are ringed with yellow. Soon the entire leaf turns yellow and falls.
Treating Black Leaf Spot Fungus
Getting rid of black leaf spot must be a two-pronged attack. Because its spores travel on the wind and plash from leaf to leaf during watering, treating black leaf spot should be first on your agenda. There are several good fungicides on the market, several of which claim to be organic. They come in handy bottle sprayers, but if your garden is large, you might want to buy it as a concentrate to mix in your tank sprayer. Neem oil is another alternative for treating black leaf spot. It’s an oil pressed from an evergreen tree. It’s all natural and has shown some remarkable results as an effective garden fungicide. For those of you who prefer Grandma’s solutions to garden problems, try this: Mix one heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a gallon of water for your sprayer. Add a dash of horticultural oil or horticultural soap and Voila! You have a method of treating black leaf spot that works by changing the pH on the leaf surface to one the fungus can’t survive. The oil or soap makes the solution stick and the cost is around four cents a gallon.
The next step in getting rid of black leaf spot is prevention and maintenance. The first, we already talked about. Inspect your garden regularly in the spring. Black spots on plant tissues will spread quickly. Start preventative spraying before the temperatures hit sixty. Read the label directions for the method you choose and follow it closely. For Grandma’s recipe, a light weekly dose should be sufficient. Continue spraying until temperatures are hot enough to get rid of black spot fungus without. Avoid watering your plants on cloudy days. Bright sun and good air circulation are essential for getting rid of black leaf spot. During an outbreak, all affected debris should be disposed of. It may not be ideal as far as looks go, but affected plants should be cut back, and in the fall every bit of garden debris should be thrown away or burned. The spores can overwinter on plant material, but can’t survive in bare soil. The good news is that black spot fungus rarely kills the host plant. Getting rid of black leaf spot takes a lot of diligence, but in the end, the rewards are worth it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It’s late spring and the leaves of your trees are almost full sized. You take a walk under the shady canopy and look up to admire the foliage and what do you see? White spots on the plant leaves. If that tree you’re standing under is a nut tree, the chances are good that you’re looking at a case of downy leaf spot, also known as white leaf spot. Control and elimination of this downy spot disease will probably be the next thing on your mind. You’ll want to know what to do for white spots on the leaves. Will it harm your tree? First, let’s take a closer look.
What is Downy Spot?
Early on, downy leaf spot presents itself as small (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch), whitem furry areas on the underside of the leaves and pale green spots on the upper side. If some of those white spots on the plant leaves have fused together to become blotches, they should look like white powder. If the disease attacking your nut tree fits this description, you’ve got downy spot. The proper name for your leaf destroyer is Microstroma juglandis. It is a fungus that commonly attacks host trees such as butternut, hickory, pecan and walnut trees. It’s found anywhere in the world where these nuts are grown. Those white spots on the plant leaves are fungal structures and spores that thrive in the warming temperatures and rains of spring. As the downy spot progresses, the upper sides of the leaves become chorotic, that is, show yellowish spots that will eventually turn brown. Affected leaves will fall from the tree by early August. As time passes, the ends of the branches may develop witch’s broom formations. The newly growing leaves will be stunted and malformed and will appear more yellowish than green. Many of the broom leaves will shrivel and die over the course of the summer, but before they do, these witch’s brooms can grow to be several feet in diameter.
White Leaf Spot Control – How to Treat White Spots on Plant Leaves
Unfortunately, the answer to what to do for white spots on the leaves of your nut tree is nothing. Commercial growers have the advantage of proper equipment to reach the full height of these trees and to spray the entire tree with commercial fungicides not available to the home owner with only one or two trees. The good news is that the life of your tree won’t be threatened by white leaf spot. Control of future infections is largely a matter of good sanitation practices. All leaves, infected or healthy, and all shucks and nuts should be cleared and destroyed each winter or in the early spring before buds begin to swell. Infected leaves and nuts that are left to overwinter on the ground are major sources for new infections in the spring. Removing damaged twigs and limbs, including the unattractive witch’s broom, should also be practiced during the dormant season, if possible. While downy leaf spot won’t kill your tree, any infection will weaken it and leave it vulnerable to more serious infections. Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and they’ll stay strong enough to easily survive this fungal disease.
What is Downy Spot?
Early on, downy leaf spot presents itself as small (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch), whitem furry areas on the underside of the leaves and pale green spots on the upper side. If some of those white spots on the plant leaves have fused together to become blotches, they should look like white powder. If the disease attacking your nut tree fits this description, you’ve got downy spot. The proper name for your leaf destroyer is Microstroma juglandis. It is a fungus that commonly attacks host trees such as butternut, hickory, pecan and walnut trees. It’s found anywhere in the world where these nuts are grown. Those white spots on the plant leaves are fungal structures and spores that thrive in the warming temperatures and rains of spring. As the downy spot progresses, the upper sides of the leaves become chorotic, that is, show yellowish spots that will eventually turn brown. Affected leaves will fall from the tree by early August. As time passes, the ends of the branches may develop witch’s broom formations. The newly growing leaves will be stunted and malformed and will appear more yellowish than green. Many of the broom leaves will shrivel and die over the course of the summer, but before they do, these witch’s brooms can grow to be several feet in diameter.
White Leaf Spot Control – How to Treat White Spots on Plant Leaves
Unfortunately, the answer to what to do for white spots on the leaves of your nut tree is nothing. Commercial growers have the advantage of proper equipment to reach the full height of these trees and to spray the entire tree with commercial fungicides not available to the home owner with only one or two trees. The good news is that the life of your tree won’t be threatened by white leaf spot. Control of future infections is largely a matter of good sanitation practices. All leaves, infected or healthy, and all shucks and nuts should be cleared and destroyed each winter or in the early spring before buds begin to swell. Infected leaves and nuts that are left to overwinter on the ground are major sources for new infections in the spring. Removing damaged twigs and limbs, including the unattractive witch’s broom, should also be practiced during the dormant season, if possible. While downy leaf spot won’t kill your tree, any infection will weaken it and leave it vulnerable to more serious infections. Keep your trees well fertilized and watered and they’ll stay strong enough to easily survive this fungal disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Before you decide to start crown gall treatment, consider the value of the plant you are treating. The bacteria that causes crown gall disease in plants persists in the soil as long as there are susceptible plants in the area. To eliminate the bacteria and prevent the spread, it’s best to remove and destroy diseased plants. What is Crown Gall? When learning about crown gall treatment, it helps to know more about what is crown gall in the first place. Plants with crown gall have swollen knots, called galls, near the crown and sometimes on the roots and twigs as well. The galls are tan in color and may be spongy in texture at first, but they eventually harden and turn dark brown or black. As the disease progresses, the galls can totally encircle the trunks and branches, cutting off the flow of sap that nourishes the plant. The galls are caused by a bacterium (Rhizobium radiobacter formerly Agrobacterium tumefaciens) that lives in the soil and enters the plant through injuries. Once inside the plant, the bacterium injects some of its genetic material into the host’s cells, causing it to produce hormones that stimulate small areas of rapid growth.
How to Fix Crown Gall
Unfortunately, the best course of action for plants affected by crown gall is to remove and destroy the infected plant. The bacteria can persist in the soil for two years after the plant is gone, so avoid planting any other susceptible plants in the area until the bacteria dies out for lack of a host plant. Prevention is an essential aspect of dealing with crown gall. Inspect plants carefully before you buy them, and reject any plants with swollen knots. The disease can enter the plant in the nursery through the graft union, so pay particular attention to this area.
To prevent the bacteria from entering the plant once you get it home, avoid wounds near the ground as much as possible. Use string trimmers with care and mow the lawn so that debris flies away from susceptible plants. Galltrol is a product that contains a bacterium that competes with Rhizobium radiobacter and prevents it from entering wounds. A chemical eradicant called Gallex may also help prevent the crown gall disease in plants. Although these products are sometimes recommended for crown gall treatment, they are more effective when used as a preventative before the bacteria infects the plant.
Plants Affected by Crown Gall Over 600 different plants are affected by crown gall, including these common landscape plants: Fruit trees, particularly apples and members of the Prunus family, which includes cherries and plums Roses and members of the rose family Raspberries and blackberries Willow trees Wisteria
How to Fix Crown Gall
Unfortunately, the best course of action for plants affected by crown gall is to remove and destroy the infected plant. The bacteria can persist in the soil for two years after the plant is gone, so avoid planting any other susceptible plants in the area until the bacteria dies out for lack of a host plant. Prevention is an essential aspect of dealing with crown gall. Inspect plants carefully before you buy them, and reject any plants with swollen knots. The disease can enter the plant in the nursery through the graft union, so pay particular attention to this area.
To prevent the bacteria from entering the plant once you get it home, avoid wounds near the ground as much as possible. Use string trimmers with care and mow the lawn so that debris flies away from susceptible plants. Galltrol is a product that contains a bacterium that competes with Rhizobium radiobacter and prevents it from entering wounds. A chemical eradicant called Gallex may also help prevent the crown gall disease in plants. Although these products are sometimes recommended for crown gall treatment, they are more effective when used as a preventative before the bacteria infects the plant.
Plants Affected by Crown Gall Over 600 different plants are affected by crown gall, including these common landscape plants: Fruit trees, particularly apples and members of the Prunus family, which includes cherries and plums Roses and members of the rose family Raspberries and blackberries Willow trees Wisteria
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees. 
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Leaves that curl, wilt, discolor and die may mean that a plant is suffering from verticillium wilt. You may first notice these symptoms in spring or fall when temperatures are mild. Read on to find out how to distinguish verticillium wilt from other plant diseases and what to do about it. What is Verticillium Wilt? Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that lives in the soil. It invades susceptible plants through their roots and spreads through the plant’s vascular system. The list of plants affected by verticillium wilt is extensive and includes trees, shrubs, and garden annuals and perennials. It can also affect fruit and vegetable crops. Verticillium wilt symptoms mimic those of other plant diseases and environmental problems, and this makes it hard to diagnose. 
The leaves wilt and curl, and turn yellow or red. They eventually turn brown and drop off. Stems and branches die back. It’s not unusual to see these symptoms on one side of the plant while the other side appears unaffected. As the disease travels up a tree or shrub’s vascular system, it leaves dark discolorations. If you peel back the bark, you’ll see dark streaks on the wood. If you cut through a branch and look at the cross section, you’ll see rings of dark color. These discolorations in the wood can help you tell the difference between verticillium wilt and other plant diseases. Control of Verticillium Wilt Verticillium wilt can’t be cured once it enters the plant. It’s best to remove and destroy small, easily replaced plants. The disease remains in the soil after you remove the plant, so don’t plant another susceptible species in the same area.
Verticillium wilt treatment for trees and shrubs focuses on giving the plant the best possible care to build up its resistance. Water the plant regularly, and when possible, provide afternoon shade. Fertilize on schedule, using a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer. Prune off dead and dying branches. You can often get rid of the verticillium wilt fungus in the soil by solarization. Soil solarization heats up the top 6 inches or so of soil to temperatures high enough to kill the fungus. Prepare the soil by tilling or digging and then wetting it down. Cover the area with a clear plastic tarp and bury the edges under a few inches of soil to hold it in place and keep the heat in.
It takes three to five weeks of bright sunlight and warm temperatures for the soil to heat up enough to kill the fungus. Verticillium wilt is a devastating and incurable disease, but with special care and attention, you can preserve the plant and enjoy it for several more years.
The leaves wilt and curl, and turn yellow or red. They eventually turn brown and drop off. Stems and branches die back. It’s not unusual to see these symptoms on one side of the plant while the other side appears unaffected. As the disease travels up a tree or shrub’s vascular system, it leaves dark discolorations. If you peel back the bark, you’ll see dark streaks on the wood. If you cut through a branch and look at the cross section, you’ll see rings of dark color. These discolorations in the wood can help you tell the difference between verticillium wilt and other plant diseases. Control of Verticillium Wilt Verticillium wilt can’t be cured once it enters the plant. It’s best to remove and destroy small, easily replaced plants. The disease remains in the soil after you remove the plant, so don’t plant another susceptible species in the same area.
Verticillium wilt treatment for trees and shrubs focuses on giving the plant the best possible care to build up its resistance. Water the plant regularly, and when possible, provide afternoon shade. Fertilize on schedule, using a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer. Prune off dead and dying branches. You can often get rid of the verticillium wilt fungus in the soil by solarization. Soil solarization heats up the top 6 inches or so of soil to temperatures high enough to kill the fungus. Prepare the soil by tilling or digging and then wetting it down. Cover the area with a clear plastic tarp and bury the edges under a few inches of soil to hold it in place and keep the heat in.
It takes three to five weeks of bright sunlight and warm temperatures for the soil to heat up enough to kill the fungus. Verticillium wilt is a devastating and incurable disease, but with special care and attention, you can preserve the plant and enjoy it for several more years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
You can tell a lot about your plant’s health from its leaves. When they’re green, shiny and flexible, all systems are go; that plant is happy and care-free. But when plants develop brown leaves in the middle of their canopy or leaf browning in center of leaves, problems are afoot. Most of the time, these symptoms can be traced back to improper growing conditions, but they may also be caused by fungi and viruses.
Causes for Plants Going Brown in Center Crown and Root Rot The center rotting out of a plant is almost always related to crown or root rot. Most plants can’t tolerate a soggy environment, especially those with crowns densely covered with leaves, like African violets. When you keep the soil wet all the time, fungal pathogens take advantage of the humidity that develops under the leaves of these low-growing plants, reproducing rapidly. Both root and crown rot can appear similar in these short plants, with the plants going brown in the center as the disease progresses. If you’re asking yourself, “What is causing brown leaves in center of my plant,” you need to check the soil moisture first. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between waterings and never leave plants soaking in water-filled saucers. Plants with root rot may be saved if you catch it in an early stage. Dig your plant, trim out any brown, black or soggy roots and replant into a well-draining medium — chemicals won’t help, the only thing that will fix root rot is a drier environment.
Diseases That Cause Brown Leaves Other reasons why leaves turn brown in middle include fungal diseases like anthracnose and host-specific rusts. They often start along the mid-vein of leaves, either near the center or toward the stem end. Fungal diseases are aggravated or initiated by humid conditions. Rusts can be treated early in the disease process, but good sanitation is vital to prevent it from spreading further. When tiny, rust-colored spots appear in the middle of your plant’s leaves, try neem oil before breaking out stronger chemicals like thiophanate methyl, myclobutanil or chlorothalonil. Remove any plants that resist treatment and keep all plant debris cleaned up off of the ground. Anthracnose also begins along the mid-vein in many plants, but is primarily a problem for woody plants, although tomatoes and other crops have been known to contract it. This fungus creates water-soaked lesions on leaves along the mid-vein that soon dry out and brown. Anthracnose is difficult to treat, but crop rotation and sanitation are the keys to preventing reinfection. A number of plant viruses result in vein necrosis, the death of the central leaf vein and those tissues surrounding it, causing browning. Other common symptoms include discolored spots, rings or bullseyes in a range of colors, general unthriftiness and distortion of emerging growth.
A plant affected by a virus cannot be cured, so it’s best to destroy them before other plants are infected as well. Many viruses are vectored by small, sap-sucking insects; be on the lookout for pests in and around sick plants.
Causes for Plants Going Brown in Center Crown and Root Rot The center rotting out of a plant is almost always related to crown or root rot. Most plants can’t tolerate a soggy environment, especially those with crowns densely covered with leaves, like African violets. When you keep the soil wet all the time, fungal pathogens take advantage of the humidity that develops under the leaves of these low-growing plants, reproducing rapidly. Both root and crown rot can appear similar in these short plants, with the plants going brown in the center as the disease progresses. If you’re asking yourself, “What is causing brown leaves in center of my plant,” you need to check the soil moisture first. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between waterings and never leave plants soaking in water-filled saucers. Plants with root rot may be saved if you catch it in an early stage. Dig your plant, trim out any brown, black or soggy roots and replant into a well-draining medium — chemicals won’t help, the only thing that will fix root rot is a drier environment.
Diseases That Cause Brown Leaves Other reasons why leaves turn brown in middle include fungal diseases like anthracnose and host-specific rusts. They often start along the mid-vein of leaves, either near the center or toward the stem end. Fungal diseases are aggravated or initiated by humid conditions. Rusts can be treated early in the disease process, but good sanitation is vital to prevent it from spreading further. When tiny, rust-colored spots appear in the middle of your plant’s leaves, try neem oil before breaking out stronger chemicals like thiophanate methyl, myclobutanil or chlorothalonil. Remove any plants that resist treatment and keep all plant debris cleaned up off of the ground. Anthracnose also begins along the mid-vein in many plants, but is primarily a problem for woody plants, although tomatoes and other crops have been known to contract it. This fungus creates water-soaked lesions on leaves along the mid-vein that soon dry out and brown. Anthracnose is difficult to treat, but crop rotation and sanitation are the keys to preventing reinfection. A number of plant viruses result in vein necrosis, the death of the central leaf vein and those tissues surrounding it, causing browning. Other common symptoms include discolored spots, rings or bullseyes in a range of colors, general unthriftiness and distortion of emerging growth.
A plant affected by a virus cannot be cured, so it’s best to destroy them before other plants are infected as well. Many viruses are vectored by small, sap-sucking insects; be on the lookout for pests in and around sick plants.
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