文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
This pest is the most serious pest of this evergreen plant. It occurs everywhere in the USA from the East to the West coast. All varieties of boxwood are susceptible but the slower-growing English varieties are less susceptible than the American cultivars. The leafminer feeds between the upper and lower sides of the leaf.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The larvae feeding between the upper and lower parts of the leaf causes blisters on the underside of the leaf. The leaves infested by this pest become yellow and smaller than a normal leaf. When the plant is severely infested, it appears completely unhealthy.
Life Cycle
Boxwood leafminers over-winter as partially-grown larvae in the leaf blisters. When the days warm in spring, the larvae become active and grow rapidly feeding between the upper and lower leaves for the balance of the summer. In May the adults force the pupal skin out of the mine, where it hangs for a few days after the fly, a gall midge, emerges. The adult leafminer is a yellow to orange-red fly that looks like a mosquito. Adult flies swarm around boxwoods about the time that the Weigelas bloom. When the boxwood’s new growth appears in spring, the females mate, then insert their eggs into the underside of the leaves. The adult fly dies soon after. The eggs hatch in about 14-21 days into the larval stage ( a maggot) that grows and feeds for the rest of the summer. The leaves develop the characteristic blisters as the larvae feed. The larvae then develop into orange pupae which darken before the adults emerge. One generation of the pest occurs each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Select resistant cultivars. Culltivars of English boxwood such as Buxus sempervirens 'Pendula,' '‘Suffruticosa,' 'Handworthiensis,' 'Pyramidalis,' 'Argenteo-varigata' and 'Varder Valley' are more resistant.
2. Natural controls. Encourage natural predators such as green lacewings and spiders. Maintain plant vigor since healthy plants are more tolerant of insect damage.
3. Mechanical controls. Prune the foliage before adults emerge or right after adult flies lay their eggs in May. This reduces the overall population of the leafminer. Pinch leaves hard enough to kill maggots in the infested leaves when practical.
4. Chemical insecticide control. If you choose to use a pesticide, apply when the new leaves are fully formed, around May 1st when the Weigela is in bloom. Make a second application between mid-June and mid-July. Use carbaryl (Sevin) or malathion to control adult flies. Acephate (Orthene) applied in mid-May (about 3-4 weeks after the adults emerge.) can be applied to control the larvae developing in the new leaves. In February to early April, the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit) can be applied around the base of the shrub.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The larvae feeding between the upper and lower parts of the leaf causes blisters on the underside of the leaf. The leaves infested by this pest become yellow and smaller than a normal leaf. When the plant is severely infested, it appears completely unhealthy.
Life Cycle
Boxwood leafminers over-winter as partially-grown larvae in the leaf blisters. When the days warm in spring, the larvae become active and grow rapidly feeding between the upper and lower leaves for the balance of the summer. In May the adults force the pupal skin out of the mine, where it hangs for a few days after the fly, a gall midge, emerges. The adult leafminer is a yellow to orange-red fly that looks like a mosquito. Adult flies swarm around boxwoods about the time that the Weigelas bloom. When the boxwood’s new growth appears in spring, the females mate, then insert their eggs into the underside of the leaves. The adult fly dies soon after. The eggs hatch in about 14-21 days into the larval stage ( a maggot) that grows and feeds for the rest of the summer. The leaves develop the characteristic blisters as the larvae feed. The larvae then develop into orange pupae which darken before the adults emerge. One generation of the pest occurs each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Select resistant cultivars. Culltivars of English boxwood such as Buxus sempervirens 'Pendula,' '‘Suffruticosa,' 'Handworthiensis,' 'Pyramidalis,' 'Argenteo-varigata' and 'Varder Valley' are more resistant.
2. Natural controls. Encourage natural predators such as green lacewings and spiders. Maintain plant vigor since healthy plants are more tolerant of insect damage.
3. Mechanical controls. Prune the foliage before adults emerge or right after adult flies lay their eggs in May. This reduces the overall population of the leafminer. Pinch leaves hard enough to kill maggots in the infested leaves when practical.
4. Chemical insecticide control. If you choose to use a pesticide, apply when the new leaves are fully formed, around May 1st when the Weigela is in bloom. Make a second application between mid-June and mid-July. Use carbaryl (Sevin) or malathion to control adult flies. Acephate (Orthene) applied in mid-May (about 3-4 weeks after the adults emerge.) can be applied to control the larvae developing in the new leaves. In February to early April, the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit) can be applied around the base of the shrub.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Bagworms, Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis, produce conspicuous spindle-shaped cocoons on trees and shrubs throughout the United States. Bagworms feed on over 128 plant species. The most commonly attacked plants are arborvitae, red cedar, and other juniper species. They will also feed on fir, maple, juneberry, buckeye, persimmon, ginkgo, honeylocust, larch, sweet gum, spruce, pine, sycamore, poplar, oak, locust, willow, and hemlock.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The principle harm done by the insect is the destruction of foliage by the caterpillars. Plants usually are partially defoliated, weakened, and rendered unsightly. Complete defoliation can occur. The most notable sign of bagworm infestation is the presence of protective bags attached to a branch. The bags incorporate bits of twigs and leaves from the host plant. They are approximately 1 to 2 inches long and resemble Christmas tree ornaments hanging from the limbs.
Life Cycle
The adult female bagworm does not look like a moth and never leaves her bag. She is maggot-like in appearance, soft-bodied, and yellowish-white. A mated female lays between 500 and 1000 eggs within the bag, after which she dies. The eggs remain inside the bag throughout the winter until they hatch the following spring. There is one generation a year.
From late May to mid-June, bagworm larvae (caterpillars) begin emerging from the bags. Almost immediately after emerging, a larva starts to produce its own protective bag. The bag is constructed such that the larva's head and legs are free. This construction allows the larvae to move about the plant as it feeds on the foliage. As the larva grows, it increases the size of its bag. The full-grown larvae are about one inch long.
When a host plant becomes defoliated, the larvae will crawl off it with their bags and search for a new plant to feed upon. In mid-August, the mature larvae stop feeding and attach their bags to a twig. They close up the bag and pupate. By mid-September, the bagworm has completed its development, and adult males begin emerging from their bags. The male moth has a black, furry body and feathery antennae. The wings are almost transparent and have a span of about one inch.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick the bags. The most economical method of controlling bagworms is to handpick the bags and destroy them. Some birds and insect predators feed on larvae, so light infestations on large, healthy plants are usually controlled by natural means. On large plants, monitor infestations before resorting to chemical sprays. If the problem doesn't get worse, spraying is not required.
2. Use biological controls. In spring, as soon as eggs hatch and the young emerge, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Bt is a bacterium that causes the larvae to become sick, stop feeding, and later die. In St. Louis, the eggs hatch in late May to mid-June, or about the time the cigar tree, Catalpa speciosa, is in full bloom.
3. Use chemical controls. Because bagworms form protective bags very early, contact insecticides, while useful, are less effective than stomach poisons. For best control, spray when insects are young. Chemical controls become less effective as the bagworm matures. Chemical controls include acephate (Orthene), cyfluthrin and spinosad.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The principle harm done by the insect is the destruction of foliage by the caterpillars. Plants usually are partially defoliated, weakened, and rendered unsightly. Complete defoliation can occur. The most notable sign of bagworm infestation is the presence of protective bags attached to a branch. The bags incorporate bits of twigs and leaves from the host plant. They are approximately 1 to 2 inches long and resemble Christmas tree ornaments hanging from the limbs.
Life Cycle
The adult female bagworm does not look like a moth and never leaves her bag. She is maggot-like in appearance, soft-bodied, and yellowish-white. A mated female lays between 500 and 1000 eggs within the bag, after which she dies. The eggs remain inside the bag throughout the winter until they hatch the following spring. There is one generation a year.
From late May to mid-June, bagworm larvae (caterpillars) begin emerging from the bags. Almost immediately after emerging, a larva starts to produce its own protective bag. The bag is constructed such that the larva's head and legs are free. This construction allows the larvae to move about the plant as it feeds on the foliage. As the larva grows, it increases the size of its bag. The full-grown larvae are about one inch long.
When a host plant becomes defoliated, the larvae will crawl off it with their bags and search for a new plant to feed upon. In mid-August, the mature larvae stop feeding and attach their bags to a twig. They close up the bag and pupate. By mid-September, the bagworm has completed its development, and adult males begin emerging from their bags. The male moth has a black, furry body and feathery antennae. The wings are almost transparent and have a span of about one inch.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick the bags. The most economical method of controlling bagworms is to handpick the bags and destroy them. Some birds and insect predators feed on larvae, so light infestations on large, healthy plants are usually controlled by natural means. On large plants, monitor infestations before resorting to chemical sprays. If the problem doesn't get worse, spraying is not required.
2. Use biological controls. In spring, as soon as eggs hatch and the young emerge, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Bt is a bacterium that causes the larvae to become sick, stop feeding, and later die. In St. Louis, the eggs hatch in late May to mid-June, or about the time the cigar tree, Catalpa speciosa, is in full bloom.
3. Use chemical controls. Because bagworms form protective bags very early, contact insecticides, while useful, are less effective than stomach poisons. For best control, spray when insects are young. Chemical controls become less effective as the bagworm matures. Chemical controls include acephate (Orthene), cyfluthrin and spinosad.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Decline of trees and shrubs can be described in two ways–gradual and sudden. Sudden decline can cause the death of a plant anywhere from a month to a couple of years. Gradual decline generally occurs over several years. It can sometimes be difficult to distinguish between the two, not noticing the decline until too late.
The sudden death of trees and shrubs can be brought on by a single, primary cause that kills an otherwise healthy plant. This might be the case with an aggressive pathogen like Dutch elm disease or white pine blister rust. With gradual decline, no one particular disease causes the plant to die. Instead, conditions weaken the plant to the point that secondary organisms are able to invade the stressed plant. Dieback and decline diseases are caused by the successive action of primary stress factor(s) followed by organisms of secondary action that can successfully attack only weakened trees. One may attribute the plant’s decline to these secondary organisms, but an experienced professional knows the problem lies deeper.
Factors that lead to decline are many. This includes adverse weather conditions, such as rapid changes in winter temperatures and late spring and early fall frosts, flooding or changes in the water table, drought, bark damage from lawn mower injury or weed eaters, frost cracks, or animal feeding. Injury can also occur from lawn weed killers or other chemicals, accumulated salt injury from road salt, environmental pollution, soil fertility, or girdled or restricted root development. Finally, leaf loss from insects or diseases and damage from construction around the tree because of soil fill, root pruning, or soil compaction from heavy equipment can also be causes. Working singly or together over several years, these stresses can eventually result in tree or shrub death. A good example leading to gradual decline might be root decline where symptoms observed in the aboveground parts of the plant usually begin in the root system. When trees and shrubs are under stress, physiological changes occur in the roots, allowing fungi to infect the tissue.
Removal of the stress factors is required to save the declining plant. In many cases, action may come too late or may be impractical to carry out.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms usually develop slowly and may not be noticed immediately. Trees and shrubs exhibit an overall loss of vigor. Early symptoms might include premature fall coloration of leaves, late leaf emergence in spring, production of foliage in clumps, decrease in twig growth, dieback, death of tissues between the leaf veins, and premature leaf drop. Later symptoms might include sprouting from the trunk, heavy seed crop production, dieback of larger limbs and branches, and foliage noticeably smaller and lighter green (chlorotic). The foliage over the entire plant may also look thinner in decline conditions. These visible symptoms may not occur until the plant is severely stressed. In the autumn, clusters of mushrooms may form at the base of infected trees.
Wood-boring insects such as borers are also frequently associated with declining plants as they are attracted to weakened, stressed plants. Scale insects are also commonly found on stressed plants.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Location.Avoid placing plants in a stressful situation. Select species that are suited to the conditions of the planting location or modify the planting site to suit the requirements of the plant. This would include planting in a well-draining soil with the correct pH for the plant. Environmental conditions should also be considered, such as full sun for a sun-loving plant—not in the shade of another plant. Use warm weather plants in warm climates and moisture-loving plants in wet conditions.
2.Inspection. Prevention and early detection are the key to keeping trees and shrubs healthy. Inspect plants often and watch for symptoms of stress.
3. Planting. Do not crowd plants in restricted areas, such as close to sidewalks or streets, or place too many plants in an area that cannot support them.
4. On-going care. Water to reduce drought stress. Using a fertilizer like 5-10-5 that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen will stimulate root growth rather than shoot growth. Mulching over the root system will help prevent the loss of water, decrease compaction from rain, and keep the roots cool in the summer and warmer in the winter.
5. Pruning. Prune all dead and dying branches and no more than 10 to 20% of the remaining live branches at any one time. This should balance the foliage to the root system. If more pruning is necessary, complete this over 2–3 years.
6. Compaction. Compacted soil will cause a slow, sure death for many plants. Locate children’s play areas, dog runs, or car parking areas away from valuable trees and plantings. Core aerate compacted areas and around the drip line of trees. Change traffic patterns to reduce compacting the soil under trees.
7. Removal.Remove dead trees and shrubs and dispose of any infected material.
The sudden death of trees and shrubs can be brought on by a single, primary cause that kills an otherwise healthy plant. This might be the case with an aggressive pathogen like Dutch elm disease or white pine blister rust. With gradual decline, no one particular disease causes the plant to die. Instead, conditions weaken the plant to the point that secondary organisms are able to invade the stressed plant. Dieback and decline diseases are caused by the successive action of primary stress factor(s) followed by organisms of secondary action that can successfully attack only weakened trees. One may attribute the plant’s decline to these secondary organisms, but an experienced professional knows the problem lies deeper.
Factors that lead to decline are many. This includes adverse weather conditions, such as rapid changes in winter temperatures and late spring and early fall frosts, flooding or changes in the water table, drought, bark damage from lawn mower injury or weed eaters, frost cracks, or animal feeding. Injury can also occur from lawn weed killers or other chemicals, accumulated salt injury from road salt, environmental pollution, soil fertility, or girdled or restricted root development. Finally, leaf loss from insects or diseases and damage from construction around the tree because of soil fill, root pruning, or soil compaction from heavy equipment can also be causes. Working singly or together over several years, these stresses can eventually result in tree or shrub death. A good example leading to gradual decline might be root decline where symptoms observed in the aboveground parts of the plant usually begin in the root system. When trees and shrubs are under stress, physiological changes occur in the roots, allowing fungi to infect the tissue.
Removal of the stress factors is required to save the declining plant. In many cases, action may come too late or may be impractical to carry out.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms usually develop slowly and may not be noticed immediately. Trees and shrubs exhibit an overall loss of vigor. Early symptoms might include premature fall coloration of leaves, late leaf emergence in spring, production of foliage in clumps, decrease in twig growth, dieback, death of tissues between the leaf veins, and premature leaf drop. Later symptoms might include sprouting from the trunk, heavy seed crop production, dieback of larger limbs and branches, and foliage noticeably smaller and lighter green (chlorotic). The foliage over the entire plant may also look thinner in decline conditions. These visible symptoms may not occur until the plant is severely stressed. In the autumn, clusters of mushrooms may form at the base of infected trees.
Wood-boring insects such as borers are also frequently associated with declining plants as they are attracted to weakened, stressed plants. Scale insects are also commonly found on stressed plants.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Location.Avoid placing plants in a stressful situation. Select species that are suited to the conditions of the planting location or modify the planting site to suit the requirements of the plant. This would include planting in a well-draining soil with the correct pH for the plant. Environmental conditions should also be considered, such as full sun for a sun-loving plant—not in the shade of another plant. Use warm weather plants in warm climates and moisture-loving plants in wet conditions.
2.Inspection. Prevention and early detection are the key to keeping trees and shrubs healthy. Inspect plants often and watch for symptoms of stress.
3. Planting. Do not crowd plants in restricted areas, such as close to sidewalks or streets, or place too many plants in an area that cannot support them.
4. On-going care. Water to reduce drought stress. Using a fertilizer like 5-10-5 that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen will stimulate root growth rather than shoot growth. Mulching over the root system will help prevent the loss of water, decrease compaction from rain, and keep the roots cool in the summer and warmer in the winter.
5. Pruning. Prune all dead and dying branches and no more than 10 to 20% of the remaining live branches at any one time. This should balance the foliage to the root system. If more pruning is necessary, complete this over 2–3 years.
6. Compaction. Compacted soil will cause a slow, sure death for many plants. Locate children’s play areas, dog runs, or car parking areas away from valuable trees and plantings. Core aerate compacted areas and around the drip line of trees. Change traffic patterns to reduce compacting the soil under trees.
7. Removal.Remove dead trees and shrubs and dispose of any infected material.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dothistroma blight is a foliar disease of a number of pine species throughout the Midwest. Austrian pine is the primary host plant in Missouri. This blight is caused by the fungus Dothistroma pini, which infects and kills needles. The disease makes pines in landscapes unsightly and successive years of infection can result in decline and death of the tree.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The earliest observable symptoms are dark-green bands and tan spots or bands on the mature needles. The spots and bands later turn reddish-brown. The needles will begin to die back from the tip, but needle bases usually remain green. From the time symptoms are first noticed to the time of needle browning may take 2–3 weeks. Infected needles will drop prematurely. Infection typically is most severe in the lower crown of the tree, closer to the inoculum that spreads from infected needles that have fallen from the tree.
Life Cycle
Dothistroma overwinters in infected needles. The infective spores are released during wet weather and dispersed by rain splash throughout the growing season. Because of the continual release of spores, infections can occur anytime from late April to late October. The fungus attacks the mature foliage; current season's needles are resistant until they are fully mature. Symptoms on newly infected tissue are especially obvious in early fall.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the disease but monitor yearly. This disease is slow to spread. Annual spraying is not necessary in residential plantings. Wait and see how serious the problem becomes in one season. Serious infections can be prevented in the next growing season with the use of fungicides.
2. Plant resistant pines.Research on Austrian pine has determined that some populations are highly resistant to Dothistroma. Ask for these at your local garden center or nursery. Choose other nonsusceptible evergreens.
3. Apply fungicides. Adequate control of Dothistroma blight can be achieved with one or two sprays in late spring using a copper-based fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture. The first spray in early to mid-May protects mature foliage. A second spray in mid- June will protect the current season's needles which are resistant until they are fully grown. Other protectant fungicides include chlorothalonil (Daconil), Mancozeb and pentachloronitrobenzene.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The earliest observable symptoms are dark-green bands and tan spots or bands on the mature needles. The spots and bands later turn reddish-brown. The needles will begin to die back from the tip, but needle bases usually remain green. From the time symptoms are first noticed to the time of needle browning may take 2–3 weeks. Infected needles will drop prematurely. Infection typically is most severe in the lower crown of the tree, closer to the inoculum that spreads from infected needles that have fallen from the tree.
Life Cycle
Dothistroma overwinters in infected needles. The infective spores are released during wet weather and dispersed by rain splash throughout the growing season. Because of the continual release of spores, infections can occur anytime from late April to late October. The fungus attacks the mature foliage; current season's needles are resistant until they are fully mature. Symptoms on newly infected tissue are especially obvious in early fall.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the disease but monitor yearly. This disease is slow to spread. Annual spraying is not necessary in residential plantings. Wait and see how serious the problem becomes in one season. Serious infections can be prevented in the next growing season with the use of fungicides.
2. Plant resistant pines.Research on Austrian pine has determined that some populations are highly resistant to Dothistroma. Ask for these at your local garden center or nursery. Choose other nonsusceptible evergreens.
3. Apply fungicides. Adequate control of Dothistroma blight can be achieved with one or two sprays in late spring using a copper-based fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture. The first spray in early to mid-May protects mature foliage. A second spray in mid- June will protect the current season's needles which are resistant until they are fully grown. Other protectant fungicides include chlorothalonil (Daconil), Mancozeb and pentachloronitrobenzene.
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成长记
Ueca
2017年09月17日
I really like this plant.
5
0
Ueca：The problem is that algae begins to grow on the inside of the glass which doesn't harm the plant, but is rather unsightly.
Heidi Liu：the glass ones are so clear and pretty.
Ueca：The glass actually does have a hole at the bottom. I used a core drill (they're kind of expensive; in the $20-$30 range where I live) and covered the hole with a permeable fabric. You can do this without a drainage hole, actually, but it's harder to keep soil moisture under control.
I find that spraying the plant doesn't work very well. It's the roots that drink water, not the leaves.
Heidi Liu：so the glass pot without hole at the bottom？then the water need to be restricted？or just spray a little？
成长记
meriunkat
2017年09月17日
I new added a "Kalanchoe Tomentosa "Panda plant" babies" in my "garden"
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求助
cclecombe
2017年09月17日
I've been trying to propagate from a devils ivy plant and its lost a few leaves, and the remaining ones are looking a little limp and yellow. Its currently housed in our conservatory. Could it be that its too light in there? #Propagation #ivy
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月17日
The gollum in our bathroom is coming alongg nicely! This is a plant that I stripped down to irs main stem as it hadnt been looked after properly and since, its been doing really well! I can see a couple of bunny ears starting to show up, so it should be a full plant in no time!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents don’t always fare well when exposed to the hot sun day in and day out. In nature, succulents often grow under or near a shrub or tree where they receive bright light but not constant direct sunlight. Don’t automatically plant your succulent smack-dab in the middle of the garden, where it receives endless hours of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Instead, carefully select its growing location where your succulent will receive enough sunlight, but not too much.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful and sometimes neglectful gardeners. They don’t require much care and are easy to grow inside as well as out. They come in a variety of colors and textures and look lovely potted or landscaped.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents generally bloom in colder weather. Therefore, they provide color when the rest of your garden has shed its hues. These are the most popular flowering succulents:
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii): The branches of this succulent plant look like thin, spindly cactus. At the ends of the branches are groupings of oval leaves. Red clusters of flowers form within these bunches. Crown of Thorns can bloom throughout the year if it has adequate sunlight. When it’s blooming, water this one more frequently than your other succulents. When there are no flowers visible, let the top layer of soil dry out in between watering. If it gets too dry, it will lose its leaves. However, they will grow back once the plant becomes hydrated again.
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi): Christmas Cactus can work well as a hanging plant. As it grows, the leaves and flowers trail downward. This plant tends to flower in temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). If you keep it outside, it will begin to flower in the winter. The Christmas Cactus doesn’t like a lot of water. It prefers drier soil, especially in the winter.
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii): The branches of this succulent plant look like thin, spindly cactus. At the ends of the branches are groupings of oval leaves. Red clusters of flowers form within these bunches. Crown of Thorns can bloom throughout the year if it has adequate sunlight. When it’s blooming, water this one more frequently than your other succulents. When there are no flowers visible, let the top layer of soil dry out in between watering. If it gets too dry, it will lose its leaves. However, they will grow back once the plant becomes hydrated again.
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi): Christmas Cactus can work well as a hanging plant. As it grows, the leaves and flowers trail downward. This plant tends to flower in temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). If you keep it outside, it will begin to flower in the winter. The Christmas Cactus doesn’t like a lot of water. It prefers drier soil, especially in the winter.
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