文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re on a mission to find the perfect plant to grow in your home or garden, chances are you’ll find it in the succulent section of your favorite plant nursery. It would be hard to fine one. But it won’t be hard to find a succulent you’ll love, no matter where you live.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are among the most unique type of indoor plant. Through millions of years of evolution, they have developed amazing methods of water storage and self protection. This evolution enables them to survive in some of the most desolate growing areas on earth. 
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are the perfect plant to fall in love with. They have low moisture needs and can be a cinch to cultivate. And, they’re everywhere: all over Pinterest, gracing gardening magazines and blogs, and even in featured in retail displays in jewelry stores, furniture stores, and more.
It’s not really a surprise: Succulents are beautiful and offer gorgeous tones of silver, blue, and purple as well as the more traditional tones of green found in more familiar houseplants.
Ever wonder how to care for them? Here are three easy tips:
1. Shine On
Low-water succulents thrive in lots and lots of light. If you’ve been told to keep your houseplants out of direct sun, forget that rule with succulents. They love the sun, both indoors and out.
Don’t have a sunny spot? Don’t worry! Succulents also do great in artificial light. And you don’t need to have special bulbs; regular florescent or LED bulbs are ideal. In fact, an inexpensive shop light will give succulents good light. Suspend the shop lights 6 inches (15 cm) over your succulents. When it comes to light, more really is better with succulents. Too little light is the most common issue when growing succulents indoors.
2. Don’t Drench
The second most common problem folks have with succulents is watering – too much of it. Most of the time, water your succulents once every two weeks or so.
To test if succulents need water, just insert a toothpick up the drainage hole of the container. If the toothpick comes out with soil sticking to it, you don’t need to water.
3. Avoid Chills
If you live in a cold-weather area, ensure your succulents don’t get cold. Keep them out of a chilly window. Window sills, particularly drafty ones, may be substantially colder than the surrounding room.
See! It’s easy! With these three tips you’re sure to enjoy success with beautiful low-water indoor succulents.
It’s not really a surprise: Succulents are beautiful and offer gorgeous tones of silver, blue, and purple as well as the more traditional tones of green found in more familiar houseplants.
Ever wonder how to care for them? Here are three easy tips:
1. Shine On
Low-water succulents thrive in lots and lots of light. If you’ve been told to keep your houseplants out of direct sun, forget that rule with succulents. They love the sun, both indoors and out.
Don’t have a sunny spot? Don’t worry! Succulents also do great in artificial light. And you don’t need to have special bulbs; regular florescent or LED bulbs are ideal. In fact, an inexpensive shop light will give succulents good light. Suspend the shop lights 6 inches (15 cm) over your succulents. When it comes to light, more really is better with succulents. Too little light is the most common issue when growing succulents indoors.
2. Don’t Drench
The second most common problem folks have with succulents is watering – too much of it. Most of the time, water your succulents once every two weeks or so.
To test if succulents need water, just insert a toothpick up the drainage hole of the container. If the toothpick comes out with soil sticking to it, you don’t need to water.
3. Avoid Chills
If you live in a cold-weather area, ensure your succulents don’t get cold. Keep them out of a chilly window. Window sills, particularly drafty ones, may be substantially colder than the surrounding room.
See! It’s easy! With these three tips you’re sure to enjoy success with beautiful low-water indoor succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Some gardeners find tropical plants intimidating. Succulents in particular tend to have unusual requirements, and gardeners sometimes worry about the plants harming pets if eaten. The Agave attenuata is a tropical plant that is actually quite easy to care for in a backyard garden. Once homeowners discover how easy it is to properly care for the Agave attenuata, the plant becomes even more appealing, whether positioned in a lawn plot or placed in a container on the patio.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a common houseplant that even the most novice of gardeners can grow successfully. Getting a Jade Plant to bloom requires mimicking its native growing conditions. Lack of water, cool nights and bright days encourage the plant to form buds and finally flowers. It’s a bit of a trick, but you can fool your plant into producing pretty little starry white to pink flowers in spring.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight.
This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water.
Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten.
Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location.
This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water.
Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten.
Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
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Ashtyn Emily Wright
2017年09月19日
I'm not 100% on what this plant is but I just found one of its leaves that had fallen off & is already propagating!!🤗🌱
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meriunkat：yes definitely Jade plant "money plant"
cclecombe：It looks like a jade plant!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) are a classic houseplant, especially for the neglectful home owner. It prefer bright light and occasional water in the warm season, but other than that the plants are fairly self-sufficient. In good conditions, you may still find white spots on Jade Plant leaves; but if the plant’s overall health is good, you should not worry too much. What causes white spots on Jade Plant? It may be a natural phenomenon or a bit of a fungal disease, but either way, there are easy methods to define and deal with the problem.
What Causes White Spots?
The few times I have discovered white spots on my Jade Plant, I simply rubbed them off lightly and the plant was no worse for wear. The actual cause of the white spots on Jade Plant leaves might be powdery mildew, or even a condition where the plant stores salts and “sweats” the excess out through its leaves. One cause has a quick fix and the other requires some cultural adjustment and treatment. Both are really not all that harmful to your plant and learning how to get rid of white spots on Jade Plants is a matter of some quick steps.
Powdery Mildew
Most gardeners are familiar with powdery mildew. It occurs when there is low light, improper circulation, cooler temperatures and excess humidity. Overhead watering leaves foliage damp, which in winter months tends to stay moist for a long period. This promotes the formation of fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.
Avoid overhead watering and use a fan to increase circulation. Pinch off affected foliage and discard it. A solution of baking soda and vinegar is how to get rid of white spots on jade plants with powdery mildew. Spray on the leaves but ensure the leaves dry within a few hours.
Excess Salts
All plants uptake water through their roots with a few rare exceptions. Jade Plants store water in their fleshy leaves, which makes them ideal species in arid zones. They capture infrequent rainwater and store it until they need it much like a squirrel hoarding nuts. This gives the leaves their plump appearance.
Rain and ground water alike capture salt from the air and soil. When you water with a salty solution, the trapped moisture will go through the leaves during transpiration and the evaporated moisture will leave a salt residue on the leaf. Therefore, your Jade Plant has white spots on the surface of the pads. A soft, lightly moist cloth can wipe these away easily and restore the appearance of the foliage.
Other Reasons for White Spots
Jade Plants often get a condition called Oedema, where the roots take up water faster than the plant can use it. This causes corky blisters to form on the foliage. Reducing water should prevent the condition, but the blisters will remain.
Rarely, you may find a Jade Plant has white spots which are actually insects. Mealybugs have a whitish silver fuzzy exterior. If your white spots are moving under close observation, take action and seclude the Jade Plant from other plants.
The spots may also be a variety of scale with silvery bodies. Both can be conquered with a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants or by dabbing them with a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
Jade Plants are not usually prone to insect infestations, but if you put the plant outdoors for the summer, take a good look at it before bringing it indoors and infecting your other flora.
What Causes White Spots?
The few times I have discovered white spots on my Jade Plant, I simply rubbed them off lightly and the plant was no worse for wear. The actual cause of the white spots on Jade Plant leaves might be powdery mildew, or even a condition where the plant stores salts and “sweats” the excess out through its leaves. One cause has a quick fix and the other requires some cultural adjustment and treatment. Both are really not all that harmful to your plant and learning how to get rid of white spots on Jade Plants is a matter of some quick steps.
Powdery Mildew
Most gardeners are familiar with powdery mildew. It occurs when there is low light, improper circulation, cooler temperatures and excess humidity. Overhead watering leaves foliage damp, which in winter months tends to stay moist for a long period. This promotes the formation of fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.
Avoid overhead watering and use a fan to increase circulation. Pinch off affected foliage and discard it. A solution of baking soda and vinegar is how to get rid of white spots on jade plants with powdery mildew. Spray on the leaves but ensure the leaves dry within a few hours.
Excess Salts
All plants uptake water through their roots with a few rare exceptions. Jade Plants store water in their fleshy leaves, which makes them ideal species in arid zones. They capture infrequent rainwater and store it until they need it much like a squirrel hoarding nuts. This gives the leaves their plump appearance.
Rain and ground water alike capture salt from the air and soil. When you water with a salty solution, the trapped moisture will go through the leaves during transpiration and the evaporated moisture will leave a salt residue on the leaf. Therefore, your Jade Plant has white spots on the surface of the pads. A soft, lightly moist cloth can wipe these away easily and restore the appearance of the foliage.
Other Reasons for White Spots
Jade Plants often get a condition called Oedema, where the roots take up water faster than the plant can use it. This causes corky blisters to form on the foliage. Reducing water should prevent the condition, but the blisters will remain.
Rarely, you may find a Jade Plant has white spots which are actually insects. Mealybugs have a whitish silver fuzzy exterior. If your white spots are moving under close observation, take action and seclude the Jade Plant from other plants.
The spots may also be a variety of scale with silvery bodies. Both can be conquered with a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants or by dabbing them with a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
Jade Plants are not usually prone to insect infestations, but if you put the plant outdoors for the summer, take a good look at it before bringing it indoors and infecting your other flora.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Agave americana, commonly called the Century Plant, is a succulent desert plant native to Mexico. It can grow outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10. The largest of the Agaves, mature plants range from 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 m) tall with 8- to 12-foot (20 to 30 cm) spreads. Century Plant makes a dramatic accent plant with its blue or blue-gray leaves, black spines and showy, yellow-green flowers. Despite its renowned hardiness, Century Plant can still suffer from a few cultural, disease and pest problems.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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