文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Q. I set a small pot of Baby Toes in a sunny window and watered on the same schedule as my other plants. What caused the plant to disintegrate?
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti and succulents have a wonderful ability to store and conserve water. In the desert this really comes in handy. Damage from under-watering is easily correctable. Damage from over-watering happens rapidly and typically results in death of the plant. When in doubt, water conservatively! Remember deep watering infrequent is preferred over frequent shallow watering.
Symptoms of Under-watering
Cactus skin begins to wrinkle due to shrinkage of the water-storing tissue. The leaves on Agaves will bend downward due to a drop in water pressure inside the leaf. Remedy by soaking the ground about one foot down and outward. Cactus and succulent roots are shallow but widespread.
Symptoms of Over-watering
Yellowing, cracking, swelling and rotting are key signs of over-watering a cactus or succulent. Remedy by letting them dry out and then following the proper watering guidelines. Damage by over-watering happens very rapidly and is often irreversible.
Frequency of Watering
As a general rule, water cactus and succulents twice a month when the weather is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Please remember to take rain into consideration. During monsoon, the humidity is up and there is typically more rain. If so, reduce watering to once per month. During the winter, the ground does not dry out nearly as quickly as it does in the summer. Watering should be reduced to once a month or not at all depending on rainfall. It is always important to let the soil dry out between watering.
Cacti and Succulents in Pots
Potted cacti and succulents will need more water than if planted in the ground. Make sure all potted cacti and succulents are planted in pots with drainage holes and in sandy well draining soil. This will help prevent over-watering. They should be watered once to twice weekly during the months over 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Make sure soil is allowed to dry out between watering. During cooler months reduce watering accordingly. Remember, a good rule of thumb is to let the soil dry out between watering. In most cases you can correct damage due to under-watering. Over-watering typically kills the plant!
Symptoms of Under-watering
Cactus skin begins to wrinkle due to shrinkage of the water-storing tissue. The leaves on Agaves will bend downward due to a drop in water pressure inside the leaf. Remedy by soaking the ground about one foot down and outward. Cactus and succulent roots are shallow but widespread.
Symptoms of Over-watering
Yellowing, cracking, swelling and rotting are key signs of over-watering a cactus or succulent. Remedy by letting them dry out and then following the proper watering guidelines. Damage by over-watering happens very rapidly and is often irreversible.
Frequency of Watering
As a general rule, water cactus and succulents twice a month when the weather is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Please remember to take rain into consideration. During monsoon, the humidity is up and there is typically more rain. If so, reduce watering to once per month. During the winter, the ground does not dry out nearly as quickly as it does in the summer. Watering should be reduced to once a month or not at all depending on rainfall. It is always important to let the soil dry out between watering.
Cacti and Succulents in Pots
Potted cacti and succulents will need more water than if planted in the ground. Make sure all potted cacti and succulents are planted in pots with drainage holes and in sandy well draining soil. This will help prevent over-watering. They should be watered once to twice weekly during the months over 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Make sure soil is allowed to dry out between watering. During cooler months reduce watering accordingly. Remember, a good rule of thumb is to let the soil dry out between watering. In most cases you can correct damage due to under-watering. Over-watering typically kills the plant!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
For a typical leafy plant, for good growth you keep the soil moist and don’t skimp on the watering. When dealing with succulent plants, different rules apply. Succulent plants store extra water in their leaves, roots or stems to survive long periods of heat and no rainfall. If you are overly generous, they fill up their water storage tissues, become bloated and can actually split open. Soil kept too wet prevents air from reaching the roots, and they die, leading to soft rot.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant or Money Plant, is probably the most widely grown succulent houseplant in the world. It is popular because it is very easy to grow and because it is said to bring good fortune and money. Jade Plants do make excellent houseplants, but can also grow up to 10 feet (3 m) high if planted outdoors and can even be pruned into an exotic hedge. Jade Plants have few problems in cultivation, but yellowing leaves are often an early sign that something is wrong.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents require well-draining soil that allows air to circulate around the roots. Without these qualities, succulents are prone to rot, which often results in the death of the plant. Although commercial potting mixtures for succulents are readily available, making a potting mixture ensures the quality of the mixture and provides flexibility for experimentation. Depending on the size of the batch, combine ingredients in a large bowl, bucket, bushel basket or clean garbage can.
Soil
An effective potting soil for succulents consists of two parts soil or soil substitute. A soil-free commercial potting mixture is recommended for homemade potting soil, because the soilless mixture is lightweight, porous, free of weeds and presterilized to remove disease and bacteria often found in garden soil. Good-quality garden topsoil is appropriate if it is sterilized before mixing it with other ingredients. To sterilize garden soil, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). Spread the soil in a baking pan and heat it for 20 minutes. Stirring the soil every five minutes heats it evenly and prevents scorching.
Peat Moss
A potting soil for succulents benefits from the inclusion of two parts peat moss. Peat moss is too acidic to be used as a potting mixture on its own, but when incorporated into soil and other ingredients, it promotes moisture retention and nutrient absorption while providing ample air circulation around growing roots.
Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep succulents healthy and thriving.
Sand
A ratio of one part clean sand provides a gritty, coarse texture to a potting soil mixture that enhances the air circulation and moisture drainage required by succulent plants. Sand is also beneficial because it anchors succulents and prevents them from becoming dislodged in loose, lightweight potting mixture. A coarse builder’s sand is preferable, because beach and sandbox sand are too finely textured and dense.
Perlite
Incorporate one part perlite into the potting mixture to add air space. Perlite, inexpensive and easily located in most garden centers, is a granular, white, puffy volcanic rock that improves drainage and prevents compaction of the potting mixture. Vermiculite, also a volcanic byproduct, is a suitable substitute for perlite but is often more expensive. Alternatively, use crushed charcoal in place of perlite or vermiculite.
Additives
A small amount of limestone, rich in calcium and magnesium, balances soil pH and makes soil nutrients more available to the succulents. Similarly, bonemeal supplies phosphate, which stimulates root growth. Use approximately 2 ounces of limestone and 2 ounces (57 gr) of bonemeal for every 4 gallons (15 l) of potting mixture.
Soil
An effective potting soil for succulents consists of two parts soil or soil substitute. A soil-free commercial potting mixture is recommended for homemade potting soil, because the soilless mixture is lightweight, porous, free of weeds and presterilized to remove disease and bacteria often found in garden soil. Good-quality garden topsoil is appropriate if it is sterilized before mixing it with other ingredients. To sterilize garden soil, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). Spread the soil in a baking pan and heat it for 20 minutes. Stirring the soil every five minutes heats it evenly and prevents scorching.
Peat Moss
A potting soil for succulents benefits from the inclusion of two parts peat moss. Peat moss is too acidic to be used as a potting mixture on its own, but when incorporated into soil and other ingredients, it promotes moisture retention and nutrient absorption while providing ample air circulation around growing roots.
Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep succulents healthy and thriving.
Sand
A ratio of one part clean sand provides a gritty, coarse texture to a potting soil mixture that enhances the air circulation and moisture drainage required by succulent plants. Sand is also beneficial because it anchors succulents and prevents them from becoming dislodged in loose, lightweight potting mixture. A coarse builder’s sand is preferable, because beach and sandbox sand are too finely textured and dense.
Perlite
Incorporate one part perlite into the potting mixture to add air space. Perlite, inexpensive and easily located in most garden centers, is a granular, white, puffy volcanic rock that improves drainage and prevents compaction of the potting mixture. Vermiculite, also a volcanic byproduct, is a suitable substitute for perlite but is often more expensive. Alternatively, use crushed charcoal in place of perlite or vermiculite.
Additives
A small amount of limestone, rich in calcium and magnesium, balances soil pH and makes soil nutrients more available to the succulents. Similarly, bonemeal supplies phosphate, which stimulates root growth. Use approximately 2 ounces of limestone and 2 ounces (57 gr) of bonemeal for every 4 gallons (15 l) of potting mixture.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Soils are essential for life on earth and critical in many of the environmental challenges facing the earth. Most plants depend on soils as a suitable medium for growth by providing at least six factors for plant growth: physical support for anchoring the root system, aeration and ventilation for the roots, pores for absorbing rainwater and holding it for use by the roots, moderation of temperature fluctuations, protection from phytotoxic substances, and supplying inorganic minerals in the form of dissolved nutrients.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe aristata, also known as Lace Aloe, is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant. It is a stemless, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, clump-forming succulent with dense rosettes of stubby, lance-shaped, toothed, white-margined, dark green leaves, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long, with small white spots and soft white spines, particularly beneath. In the fall, produces terminal panicles, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, 2 to 6 branched, bearing cylindrical, orange-red flowers, up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum arachnoideum, sometimes known as Cobweb Houseleek is a species of flowering plant in the family Crassulaceae, native to the Alps, Apennines and Carpathians.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata (also known as Jade Plant) care is easy and simple. Many people enjoy growing Jade Plants in their homes and offices, and they are considered to be symbols of good luck. But you do not need to be lucky to learn what the proper care and maintenance of Jade Plants is. Keep reading to learn how to care for a Crassula ovata.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of Agave, including the famous Century Plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, Agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well known is the Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates it grows into a shrub. Many other Crassula species are much smaller. Some are miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder “What is that?” With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
The succulent Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) grows wild in its native southern Africa, where it can reach 8 to 9 feet tall and spread about as wide. The fleshy oval leaves measure about 1 inch long at maturity. Mature stems are barklike, with softer tip growth. The plant responds to leaf pruning or removal by quickly sending out new, small leaves. Use this natural trait to your advantage with jade bonsai to keep the leaves in scale and to help keep a mature jade from becoming top-heavy.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sansevierias are valued for their interesting appearance and durability. Although the most common variety is known as Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue for its long, pointed leaves that stand straight up in the pot, other varieties grow from compact rosettes and reach mature heights of only about 4 inches (10 cm). Because Sansevierias thrive with minimal care and live for many years, it seems nearly indestructible. Sansevieria is suitable for planting outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10B through 11.
Light
Place Sansevierias in moderately bright or filtered light. Good locations include a spot in front of a north-facing window or in front of a bright, sunny window covered by a sheer curtain. Although the plant tolerates low light, bright light brings out the colors in the leaves. However, intense light may cause the edges of the leaves to turn yellow.
Watering
Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, and then water deeply until water drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain and then discard water that remains in the saucer. Never allow the soil to become soggy and never let the pot stand in water. Water sparingly throughout the winter. Like most succulent plants that store water in their leaves, Sansevieria rots quickly in excessively wet soil.
Temperature
Place Sansevieria in average room temperatures. Protect the plant from drafts and cold temperatures as it is damaged at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Feeding
Feed the plant once every three weeks throughout the summer. Use a general-purpose fertilizer for houseplants diluted to one-half the strength suggested on the container. Sansevieria is a light feeder and too much fertilizer makes the leaves fall over.
Repotting
Repot the plant into a container one size larger only when the roots outgrow the pot. Sansevieria thrives — and may produce blooms — when its roots are crowded. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting soil. Some people repot plants only when the roots crack the pot.
Remove dust by wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which may damage the leaves or cause them to take on a rusty appearance. If any leaves are damaged or blemished, cut them off, even with the soil.
Light
Place Sansevierias in moderately bright or filtered light. Good locations include a spot in front of a north-facing window or in front of a bright, sunny window covered by a sheer curtain. Although the plant tolerates low light, bright light brings out the colors in the leaves. However, intense light may cause the edges of the leaves to turn yellow.
Watering
Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, and then water deeply until water drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain and then discard water that remains in the saucer. Never allow the soil to become soggy and never let the pot stand in water. Water sparingly throughout the winter. Like most succulent plants that store water in their leaves, Sansevieria rots quickly in excessively wet soil.
Temperature
Place Sansevieria in average room temperatures. Protect the plant from drafts and cold temperatures as it is damaged at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Feeding
Feed the plant once every three weeks throughout the summer. Use a general-purpose fertilizer for houseplants diluted to one-half the strength suggested on the container. Sansevieria is a light feeder and too much fertilizer makes the leaves fall over.
Repotting
Repot the plant into a container one size larger only when the roots outgrow the pot. Sansevieria thrives — and may produce blooms — when its roots are crowded. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting soil. Some people repot plants only when the roots crack the pot.
Remove dust by wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which may damage the leaves or cause them to take on a rusty appearance. If any leaves are damaged or blemished, cut them off, even with the soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
OK, so you just returned from the store with your first cactus plant, or perhaps you bought one of those funny looking little plants with a tag sticking in the pot that says “Assorted Succulents.” You might be asking yourself, “how do I take care of this thing?”
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
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