文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Ozone is an air pollutant that is essentially a very active form of oxygen. It forms when sunlight reacts with exhaust from internal combustion engines. Ozone damage to plants occurs when plant foliage absorbs ozone during transpiration, which is the plant’s normal breathing process. The ozone reacts with compounds inside the plant to produce toxins that affect the plant in a variety of ways. The result is reduced yields and unsightly discolorations, such as silver spots on plants.
How to Fix Ozone Damage
Plants under stress are most likely to be seriously affected by ozone damage, and they recover slowly. Treat injured plants by providing conditions as close to the ideal for the species as possible. Irrigate well, especially on hot days, and fertilize on schedule. Keep the garden weed-free so that the plants don’t have competition for moisture and nutrients. Treating ozone injured plants won’t correct the damage that is already done, but it can help the plant produce new, healthy foliage and help prevent diseases and insects that normally attack weak and injured plants.
Ozone Plant Damage
There are a number of symptoms associated with ozone plant damage. Ozone first damages foliage that is almost mature. As it progresses, older and younger leaves may also sustain damage. The first symptoms are stippling or tiny spots on the surface of the leaves that may be light tan, yellow, red, red-brown, dark brown, black, or purple in color. Over time, the spots grow together to form large dead areas.
Here are some additional symptoms you may see in plants with ozone damage:
You may see bleached out or silver spots on plants. Leaves may turn yellow, bronze or red, inhibiting their ability to perform photosynthesis. Citrus and grape leaves may wither and drop off. Conifers may show yellow-brown mottling and tip burn. White pines are often stunted and yellow.
These symptoms closely mimic those of a variety of plant diseases. Your local cooperative extension agent can help you determine whether the symptoms are caused by ozone damage or disease.
Depending on the extent of the damage, plants may have reduced yields. Fruits and vegetables may be small because they mature too early. The plants will likely outgrow the damage if the symptoms are light.
How to Fix Ozone Damage
Plants under stress are most likely to be seriously affected by ozone damage, and they recover slowly. Treat injured plants by providing conditions as close to the ideal for the species as possible. Irrigate well, especially on hot days, and fertilize on schedule. Keep the garden weed-free so that the plants don’t have competition for moisture and nutrients. Treating ozone injured plants won’t correct the damage that is already done, but it can help the plant produce new, healthy foliage and help prevent diseases and insects that normally attack weak and injured plants.
Ozone Plant Damage
There are a number of symptoms associated with ozone plant damage. Ozone first damages foliage that is almost mature. As it progresses, older and younger leaves may also sustain damage. The first symptoms are stippling or tiny spots on the surface of the leaves that may be light tan, yellow, red, red-brown, dark brown, black, or purple in color. Over time, the spots grow together to form large dead areas.
Here are some additional symptoms you may see in plants with ozone damage:
You may see bleached out or silver spots on plants. Leaves may turn yellow, bronze or red, inhibiting their ability to perform photosynthesis. Citrus and grape leaves may wither and drop off. Conifers may show yellow-brown mottling and tip burn. White pines are often stunted and yellow.
These symptoms closely mimic those of a variety of plant diseases. Your local cooperative extension agent can help you determine whether the symptoms are caused by ozone damage or disease.
Depending on the extent of the damage, plants may have reduced yields. Fruits and vegetables may be small because they mature too early. The plants will likely outgrow the damage if the symptoms are light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Nutrient deficiencies in plants are hard to spot and are often misdiagnosed. Plant deficiencies are often encouraged by a number of factors including poor soil, insect damage, too much fertilizer, poor drainage or disease. When nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are lacking, plants respond in a variety of ways—oftentimes in the leaves.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Herbicide plant damage can arise in a variety of forms. It is usually the result of unintentional contact with chemicals from spray drift or contact with vapor. Recognizing accidental herbicide injury may be difficult as the symptoms can mimic other plant conditions. Know the classic signs and learn how to treat plants accidentally sprayed with herbicide.
Accidental Herbicide Injury
The type of injury can be determined by the time symptoms begin to show. Problems that appear right after new plants begin to germinate are often the result of carry-over from previous applications, high rates of application, shallow planting and even poor timing. Herbicide plant damage that appears on mature plants may be due to drift, misapplication, high temperatures or humidity, incorrect treatment and tank contamination. The home gardener will usually notice accidental herbicide injury on mature plants due to misapplication and timing.
Symptoms of Herbicide Injuries
The signs of injury will depend on the type of herbicide which contacted the plant. Post-emergence broadleaf herbicides are responsible for most injuries. These result in twisted leaves, cupped foliage, narrower new leaves, and roots that appear on the surface in annual plants. On ornamental grasses, these products cause yellowing and die back. Pre-emergence controls are not as dangerous and herbicides that are applied systemically rarely result in problems unless they are over-applied.
The exceptions are herbicides that have amine salt, which allows the chemical to liquefy and travel more easily through soil. Non-selective herbicides will cause accidental herbicide injury in many instances and these controls must be applied according to directions and with caution. Symptoms of herbicide injuries from these products include yellowing in leaves, die back and general ill health in plants that might have been exposed. In some cases, fixing herbicide spray drift is possible if it is caught early enough.
How to Treat Plants Accidentally Sprayed with Herbicide
Contact non-selective herbicide injury is usually most evident in the leaves. A foliar method is used for application, which increases chances of drift. Plants accidentally exposed should have affected leaves pruned off to prevent the spread of the herbicide deep into the plant. It may also help to water the plant thoroughly to dilute the chemicals. If left untreated, the plant will eventually die.
Plants exposed to other chemical formulas may survive if you give them superior care for the next year. Keep the plant watered properly, fertilize in spring and prevent competition from weeds. If no other factors, such as disease or insects, are affecting your plant, then your leafy friend may outlive you.
Accidental Herbicide Injury
The type of injury can be determined by the time symptoms begin to show. Problems that appear right after new plants begin to germinate are often the result of carry-over from previous applications, high rates of application, shallow planting and even poor timing. Herbicide plant damage that appears on mature plants may be due to drift, misapplication, high temperatures or humidity, incorrect treatment and tank contamination. The home gardener will usually notice accidental herbicide injury on mature plants due to misapplication and timing.
Symptoms of Herbicide Injuries
The signs of injury will depend on the type of herbicide which contacted the plant. Post-emergence broadleaf herbicides are responsible for most injuries. These result in twisted leaves, cupped foliage, narrower new leaves, and roots that appear on the surface in annual plants. On ornamental grasses, these products cause yellowing and die back. Pre-emergence controls are not as dangerous and herbicides that are applied systemically rarely result in problems unless they are over-applied.
The exceptions are herbicides that have amine salt, which allows the chemical to liquefy and travel more easily through soil. Non-selective herbicides will cause accidental herbicide injury in many instances and these controls must be applied according to directions and with caution. Symptoms of herbicide injuries from these products include yellowing in leaves, die back and general ill health in plants that might have been exposed. In some cases, fixing herbicide spray drift is possible if it is caught early enough.
How to Treat Plants Accidentally Sprayed with Herbicide
Contact non-selective herbicide injury is usually most evident in the leaves. A foliar method is used for application, which increases chances of drift. Plants accidentally exposed should have affected leaves pruned off to prevent the spread of the herbicide deep into the plant. It may also help to water the plant thoroughly to dilute the chemicals. If left untreated, the plant will eventually die.
Plants exposed to other chemical formulas may survive if you give them superior care for the next year. Keep the plant watered properly, fertilize in spring and prevent competition from weeds. If no other factors, such as disease or insects, are affecting your plant, then your leafy friend may outlive you.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Rain is as important to your plants as sun and nutrients, but like anything else, too much of a good thing can spell trouble. When rain is knocking down plants, gardeners despair, worried that their precious petunias will never be the same. Although plants flattened by rain are a troubling sight, torrential rains and plants have been co-existing for thousands of years — healthy plants are perfectly capable of managing rain damage.
Will Plants Recover from Rain Damage?
Heavy rain damage on plants may leave them looking like they’ve been flattened to within an inch of their lives, but if you take a closer look at stems and branches, you’ll notice something amazing — most of those rain damaged parts are bent, not broken. Your plants may look terrible, but their flexibility saved them from a monstrous rain storm. If instead they remained rigid in the face of such an intense beating, their tissues would have broken or cracked, causing important transportation pathways to be severed. A few days to a week after a damaging storm, your plants will perk back up. Sometimes flowers are damaged and leaves slightly torn, but your plants will replace these injured areas much faster than seems possible if you leave them alone to do it. Don’t try to prop plants that are rain-flattened, since this can lead to additional damage. Let them be and watch them come back from their beating.
Help for Rain Damaged Plants
Healthy plants can take a good pounding from the rain and will come back for more, but if your plants have been over fertilized or are planted in an area where the light is really too low for them, you may have a problem. Under these conditions, your plants may have developed leggy, weak growth that was unable to flex enough to protect them from damage.
If your plant stems are broken, rather than bent, you can help them recover by removing severely damaged tissues within a week after the damaging rain. This makes room for new leaves and shoots, and helps prevent the damaged, browning tissues from encouraging disease. In the future, perform a soil test before fertilizing and make sure that your plants are getting enough light to develop strong stems and branches.
Will Plants Recover from Rain Damage?
Heavy rain damage on plants may leave them looking like they’ve been flattened to within an inch of their lives, but if you take a closer look at stems and branches, you’ll notice something amazing — most of those rain damaged parts are bent, not broken. Your plants may look terrible, but their flexibility saved them from a monstrous rain storm. If instead they remained rigid in the face of such an intense beating, their tissues would have broken or cracked, causing important transportation pathways to be severed. A few days to a week after a damaging storm, your plants will perk back up. Sometimes flowers are damaged and leaves slightly torn, but your plants will replace these injured areas much faster than seems possible if you leave them alone to do it. Don’t try to prop plants that are rain-flattened, since this can lead to additional damage. Let them be and watch them come back from their beating.
Help for Rain Damaged Plants
Healthy plants can take a good pounding from the rain and will come back for more, but if your plants have been over fertilized or are planted in an area where the light is really too low for them, you may have a problem. Under these conditions, your plants may have developed leggy, weak growth that was unable to flex enough to protect them from damage.
If your plant stems are broken, rather than bent, you can help them recover by removing severely damaged tissues within a week after the damaging rain. This makes room for new leaves and shoots, and helps prevent the damaged, browning tissues from encouraging disease. In the future, perform a soil test before fertilizing and make sure that your plants are getting enough light to develop strong stems and branches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
What is a blind plant? Plant blindness is not visually challenged flora. Non-blooming of plants that should bloom is the actual definition of plant blindness. The reason some plants fail to bloom can be caused by many situations. Let’s work together to discover the answers and causes to this disappointing bloom issue.
There is nothing more exciting than the first blooms of spring and few things more discouraging than the failure of a favorite plant to produce flowers. Blind shoots form at the end of many types of plants, resulting in a lack of flowers. Bulbs, like daffodils, also go blind suddenly one season and form copious foliage but no blooms. There are a variety of factors that can cause this. Some of them are correctable and some of them are the capriciousness of nature.
What is a Blind Plant?
To answer this question we need to observe the basic rules of bloom formation. The non-blooming of plants, or plant blindness, is found in a host of plant specimens. You may first notice it in bulbs, which once performed beautifully year after year, but now fail to bloom. In order for any plant to produce flowers, it needs adequate soil and exposure, water, nutrients and temperature. A bulb is a perfect little system for nutrient storage and it is this stored material which fuels the blooms. Similarly, other flowering plants uptake energy from the soil or the addition of fertilizer, to stimulate blooming. There are some steps you can take when plants fail to bloom but some are just plants prone to blindness.
Causes of Plant Blindness
Any atmospheric changes may prevent a plant from blooming. Temperature, inadequate moisture, genetic factors, pests, disease and many other causes may form a blind plant. Some plants prone to blindness are fruiting plants, such as tomatoes. When they fail to bloom, you will not get fruit. Sometimes pinching off side shoots helps, but often it is just an anomaly and you will have to get another plant. Blind shoots from roses have been studied as grafted plants and the resulting offspring were found to produce even more blooms than cuttings from flowering plants. This should be encouraging and seems to point out that blind plants are not useless but can be the source of propagation material.
Preventing Plant Blindness
There is no surefire way of preventing plant blindness. Providing supplemental fertilizer or a bloom food can increase the chances of blooms. Proper pruning techniques will help you avoid cutting off the bloom sites on your plants. For instance, some plants bloom off of old wood only, so you don’t want to accidentally cut that portion off until after the bloom period. Spur pruning can help increase bloom in apples and other fruiting trees. Potted bloomers should be replanted every year when dormant and given fresh nutrient rich soil with compost mixed in to help feed the process.
There are also chemicals, called primers, which can help decrease the incidence of blind plants at germination but these seem to be limited to commercial use. The frustrated gardener should try these tips and wait until the following year and see if you get blooms. If heroic garden efforts fail to awake the late bloomer, it might be time to compost the reluctant plant in favor of a more reliable flower producer.
There is nothing more exciting than the first blooms of spring and few things more discouraging than the failure of a favorite plant to produce flowers. Blind shoots form at the end of many types of plants, resulting in a lack of flowers. Bulbs, like daffodils, also go blind suddenly one season and form copious foliage but no blooms. There are a variety of factors that can cause this. Some of them are correctable and some of them are the capriciousness of nature.
What is a Blind Plant?
To answer this question we need to observe the basic rules of bloom formation. The non-blooming of plants, or plant blindness, is found in a host of plant specimens. You may first notice it in bulbs, which once performed beautifully year after year, but now fail to bloom. In order for any plant to produce flowers, it needs adequate soil and exposure, water, nutrients and temperature. A bulb is a perfect little system for nutrient storage and it is this stored material which fuels the blooms. Similarly, other flowering plants uptake energy from the soil or the addition of fertilizer, to stimulate blooming. There are some steps you can take when plants fail to bloom but some are just plants prone to blindness.
Causes of Plant Blindness
Any atmospheric changes may prevent a plant from blooming. Temperature, inadequate moisture, genetic factors, pests, disease and many other causes may form a blind plant. Some plants prone to blindness are fruiting plants, such as tomatoes. When they fail to bloom, you will not get fruit. Sometimes pinching off side shoots helps, but often it is just an anomaly and you will have to get another plant. Blind shoots from roses have been studied as grafted plants and the resulting offspring were found to produce even more blooms than cuttings from flowering plants. This should be encouraging and seems to point out that blind plants are not useless but can be the source of propagation material.
Preventing Plant Blindness
There is no surefire way of preventing plant blindness. Providing supplemental fertilizer or a bloom food can increase the chances of blooms. Proper pruning techniques will help you avoid cutting off the bloom sites on your plants. For instance, some plants bloom off of old wood only, so you don’t want to accidentally cut that portion off until after the bloom period. Spur pruning can help increase bloom in apples and other fruiting trees. Potted bloomers should be replanted every year when dormant and given fresh nutrient rich soil with compost mixed in to help feed the process.
There are also chemicals, called primers, which can help decrease the incidence of blind plants at germination but these seem to be limited to commercial use. The frustrated gardener should try these tips and wait until the following year and see if you get blooms. If heroic garden efforts fail to awake the late bloomer, it might be time to compost the reluctant plant in favor of a more reliable flower producer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Even the professionals may have trouble determining the exact water needs of a plant. The results can be disastrous due to the stress from over or under watering. Overwatering in potted plants is of the most concern, as they are in a captive habitat. Nutrients are washed away and mold or fungal issues may develop with overwatering. Under watering creates an inhospitable environment where plants can’t intake nutrients and wither or die. A few tips and tricks can teach you how to avoid overwatering of container plants for healthy, no-fuss greenery and ways of treating overwatered plants.
Overwatering really is a fine line with many species of plant. While we know plants need water, even cacti, the exact amount and frequency may be something of a mystery. Container plants with too much water may experience foliage die off, rotten roots and tubers, and promotion of some pests or mold issues. All of these stress the plant and compromise its health. Potted plants that are too wet may even simply rot off at the crown or base.
How to Avoid Overwatering of Container Plants
An obvious method to prevent overwatering in potted plants is with the use of a moisture meter. You also need to know your plant species and its watering needs. A broad guide for plants is to keep the top few inches of soil moderately moist. When this area is dry, apply water deeply and then allow the soil to dry to the touch again, before adding more water.
A low tech solution is to get your fingers grimy. Push a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle or test the bottom of the post through a drainage hole. Never let the bottom of the container rest in a pool of water unless it is an aquatic plant, and even then, drain and refill the saucer frequently to prevent fungus gnats and root rot.
What Plants Like it Wet and Which Like it Dry
Broadly speaking, even moisture is the best option for many container plants.
Low Moisture Plants
Cacti and succulents should have dry periods in the winter when active growth is not occurring but need moderate water during the growing season. Examples of other low moisture plants are:
Aloe
Bromeliads
Cast iron plant
Ponytail palms
Spider plants
Moderate Watering Needs
Tropical plants and understory specimens will need moderate water and high humidity. These include:
Philodendron
Figs
Dragon trees
Bird of paradise
You can increase humidity with misting or by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water.
High Moisture Plants
Extreme moisture needs are found in plants like:
African violet
Lipstick plants
Maidenhair ferns
Dieffenbachia
Treating Overwatered Plants
There are some ways to save overwatered plants.
Changing the soil to a grittier mix with better drainage may help. Check the drainage holes at repotting and ensure they are open. Use containers that help evaporate excess moisture, such as terra cotta and unglazed containers. Remove the plant from its growing medium and rinse the roots to get off any fungal spores that may be forming. Then dust the roots with a fungicide and repot. Move your plant to a shady location, as plants in shade use less water and you can let it dry out a bit. After a few weeks, move it back to its preferred lighting level. Sometimes you simply can’t save potted plants that are too wet. Container plants with too much water need to be treated as soon as possible, as the longer the situation continues, the less likely there is to be a full recovery.
Overwatering really is a fine line with many species of plant. While we know plants need water, even cacti, the exact amount and frequency may be something of a mystery. Container plants with too much water may experience foliage die off, rotten roots and tubers, and promotion of some pests or mold issues. All of these stress the plant and compromise its health. Potted plants that are too wet may even simply rot off at the crown or base.
How to Avoid Overwatering of Container Plants
An obvious method to prevent overwatering in potted plants is with the use of a moisture meter. You also need to know your plant species and its watering needs. A broad guide for plants is to keep the top few inches of soil moderately moist. When this area is dry, apply water deeply and then allow the soil to dry to the touch again, before adding more water.
A low tech solution is to get your fingers grimy. Push a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle or test the bottom of the post through a drainage hole. Never let the bottom of the container rest in a pool of water unless it is an aquatic plant, and even then, drain and refill the saucer frequently to prevent fungus gnats and root rot.
What Plants Like it Wet and Which Like it Dry
Broadly speaking, even moisture is the best option for many container plants.
Low Moisture Plants
Cacti and succulents should have dry periods in the winter when active growth is not occurring but need moderate water during the growing season. Examples of other low moisture plants are:
Aloe
Bromeliads
Cast iron plant
Ponytail palms
Spider plants
Moderate Watering Needs
Tropical plants and understory specimens will need moderate water and high humidity. These include:
Philodendron
Figs
Dragon trees
Bird of paradise
You can increase humidity with misting or by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water.
High Moisture Plants
Extreme moisture needs are found in plants like:
African violet
Lipstick plants
Maidenhair ferns
Dieffenbachia
Treating Overwatered Plants
There are some ways to save overwatered plants.
Changing the soil to a grittier mix with better drainage may help. Check the drainage holes at repotting and ensure they are open. Use containers that help evaporate excess moisture, such as terra cotta and unglazed containers. Remove the plant from its growing medium and rinse the roots to get off any fungal spores that may be forming. Then dust the roots with a fungicide and repot. Move your plant to a shady location, as plants in shade use less water and you can let it dry out a bit. After a few weeks, move it back to its preferred lighting level. Sometimes you simply can’t save potted plants that are too wet. Container plants with too much water need to be treated as soon as possible, as the longer the situation continues, the less likely there is to be a full recovery.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Plants that become leggy or floppy tend to fall over, produce less flowers and create an untidy spindly appearance. There are a couple of reasons why plants are tall and leggy. Leggy plant growth may be the result of too much nitrogen or even low light situations. It is also just simply common to some species. Learn how to keep plants from getting leggy and have bushier, more bountiful flora.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
We all dream of a lush green garden or flower beds. Unfortunately, sometimes nature does not always comply with this dream. It can start with just a few leaves dropping off a plant or two, then the next thing you know, you’re looking at nothing but bare branches and stems in your garden. There can be many reasons for this defoliation of plants. Read on to learn what causes defoliation and the effects of defoliation in the garden.
What Causes Defoliation?
Defoliation is defined as a widespread loss of leaves or stripping of leaves on a plant. There are many things that can cause this, such as grazing animals like deer or rabbits, insect infestation, disease or chemical run off from herbicides.
If your plant is suddenly losing all its leaves, you should check it over thoroughly. Look for signs of chewing from animals or insects as well as signs of disease like spots, blisters, mildews and molds. Also, think about any chemical treatment that has been done near the plant. If the plant losing its leaves is a tree, you may want to call a certified arborist to diagnose it.
Effects of Defoliation
Plants have most of their photosynthesis cells in their leaves. Therefore, defoliated plants are not able to convert sunlight into energy. The effects of defoliation can cause stunted or malformed plants and even death to the plant. Woody plants can often tolerate defoliation better because they store reserve energy in their trunks and branches; however, repeated defoliation can lead to their demise as well.
Treating Defoliated Plants in the Garden
After inspecting your defoliated plants, you may have a good idea of what is causing the lack of leaves. If you suspect it is animal damage, there are animal deterrent products you can try. I make a homemade rabbit deterrent by boiling garlic, onions, cloves, cinnamon, crushed red pepper and marigolds in water. I then strain this mixture and spray the infused water all around areas where rabbits seem to frequent. This homemade remedy, like store bought products, works for a while but need to be reapplied. In cases where animals have killed the entire plant or just won’t leave it alone, you may need to replace the plant with a deer resistant plant.
If you see insects eating the foliage off your plants, select the proper insecticide for the insect you are seeing. Be sure to thoroughly spray the plant, getting the undersides of any remaining leaves. Some insecticides are systemic, meaning you can just water them in at the plant base and the plant will suck them up, protecting the whole plant from the inside out. Disease is a harder cause of defoliation to diagnose. Usually, you will see brown or black spots, streaking on the stems, deformed leaves or stems, or a powdery or fuzzy substance on the plant. Try copper fungicide to treat disease. There are also products for ornamental shrubs that have insecticide and fungicide in one product.
What Causes Defoliation?
Defoliation is defined as a widespread loss of leaves or stripping of leaves on a plant. There are many things that can cause this, such as grazing animals like deer or rabbits, insect infestation, disease or chemical run off from herbicides.
If your plant is suddenly losing all its leaves, you should check it over thoroughly. Look for signs of chewing from animals or insects as well as signs of disease like spots, blisters, mildews and molds. Also, think about any chemical treatment that has been done near the plant. If the plant losing its leaves is a tree, you may want to call a certified arborist to diagnose it.
Effects of Defoliation
Plants have most of their photosynthesis cells in their leaves. Therefore, defoliated plants are not able to convert sunlight into energy. The effects of defoliation can cause stunted or malformed plants and even death to the plant. Woody plants can often tolerate defoliation better because they store reserve energy in their trunks and branches; however, repeated defoliation can lead to their demise as well.
Treating Defoliated Plants in the Garden
After inspecting your defoliated plants, you may have a good idea of what is causing the lack of leaves. If you suspect it is animal damage, there are animal deterrent products you can try. I make a homemade rabbit deterrent by boiling garlic, onions, cloves, cinnamon, crushed red pepper and marigolds in water. I then strain this mixture and spray the infused water all around areas where rabbits seem to frequent. This homemade remedy, like store bought products, works for a while but need to be reapplied. In cases where animals have killed the entire plant or just won’t leave it alone, you may need to replace the plant with a deer resistant plant.
If you see insects eating the foliage off your plants, select the proper insecticide for the insect you are seeing. Be sure to thoroughly spray the plant, getting the undersides of any remaining leaves. Some insecticides are systemic, meaning you can just water them in at the plant base and the plant will suck them up, protecting the whole plant from the inside out. Disease is a harder cause of defoliation to diagnose. Usually, you will see brown or black spots, streaking on the stems, deformed leaves or stems, or a powdery or fuzzy substance on the plant. Try copper fungicide to treat disease. There are also products for ornamental shrubs that have insecticide and fungicide in one product.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Savvy gardeners are always on the watch for important plant infections in their gardens. One area that many neglect, however, are parasitic plants. If a plant is growing on or near another, it’s generally assumed they’re simply compatible, and not that one is drawing vital nutrients from the other. Learn more about holoparasitic plants in this article so you can better distinguish plant friend from foe.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If your plants are attacked by two-spotted mites, you are going to want to take some action to protect them. What are two-spotted spider mites? They are mites with the scientific name of Tetranychus urticae that infest hundreds of different plant species. For more information about two-spotted mite damage and control of two-spotted mites, read on.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kiwi Aeonium (Aeonium ‘Kiwi’) adds year-round color and texture to gardens with its colorful foliage, which has shades of chartreuse, cream and red. It grows U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it grows equally well in containers and low-water landscaping beds. Kiwi Aeonium propagates best by vegetative methods, but they will also grow from seed. Seed-grown plants sometimes differ in appearance because they’re hybrids.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Some succulents make your propagation work easier by forming new plants mostly on their own. Some leaf succulents develop roots on their stems while still attached to the mother plant, and sometimes leaves fall off succulents and root by themselves. Still others develop new rooted plantlets at their bases. For such plants, minimal effort is needed on the part of the gardener.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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