文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips (Tulipa spp.) are springtime plants that produce vibrantly colored blossoms, sometimes even multicolored ones. The appearance of tulips hails the arrival of warmer weather for many people. Tulips are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, and, with careful planning, you can enjoy them from early spring through early summer. They are indoor or outdoor plants and a simple way to ensure bright color in an otherwise drab landscape after winter finishes.
Large and Small Groups
How you group tulip bulbs depends on space restrictions and when they blossom. For springtime blooms, plant your tulips in groups of at least 12 per color. The early spring landscape is often barren, and so smaller groupings can make a garden look scrawny rather than lively. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from pink, white and red to purple, orange and multicolored. Plant only tulips of a single flower color in small spaces. Although making use of tulips' wide color variety is tempting, too many colors in a small space have less visual impact than fewer colors do. Plant groups of single-colored tulips in corners and hidden areas to highlight those parts of the yard.
With Other Plants and Walkways
Plant tulips in single-color bunches -- with each bunch containing a minimum of six tulips -- to highlight borders and walkways. Even though the dark green of evergreens is a contrasting backdrop for the bright color of tulips, especially in early spring, do not plant tulips under evergreen trees because their shade results in poor growth. Tulips require full- or partial-sun exposure to thrive. Flowerbeds at the base of deciduous trees, however, are optimal tulip-growing environments because those trees' branches are not yet filled with shade-producing foliage in spring.
Potted Plants Indoors
Because tulips can grow successfully indoors in containers, you can enjoy their blossoms year-round. Tulips look best in a wide, shallow pot, roughly 4 to 6 inches deep; the pot must be deep enough to allow a minimum of 2 inches below the bottom of the bulbs for root development. It is all right to have the top of the bulbs in line with the container's rim. Use a blend of potting mix and compost for the growing medium. Tulips do best in a clay pot, which drys faster than a plastic pot, reducing the risk of excess moisture. Tulip varieties that do best indoors are short ones.
Guidelines for Indoor Tulips
When planting tulip bulbs for indoor use, group the bulbs closely together so they have more visual appeal when they blossom. Fit as many bulbs into one pot as possible without having them touch. Tulip bulbs growing indoors do not naturally undergo a wintertime chill, as they would outdoors, and the change in temperature from cold to warm is what triggers tulips to blooms. Most tulip bulbs require a minimum of 14 to 20 weeks of cold temperatures before they blossom two to three weeks later. Force tulips to grow and flower indoors by chilling their container -- filled with soil and bulbs -- in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit environment. If you are in an area where temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, then keep the bulbs on a porch, and protect them with a layer of straw. In an area that gets colder weather, store them in a consistently cold environment, such as a cold cellar. Depending on when they are planted, indoor tulips can take eight to 16 weeks to bloom.
Large and Small Groups
How you group tulip bulbs depends on space restrictions and when they blossom. For springtime blooms, plant your tulips in groups of at least 12 per color. The early spring landscape is often barren, and so smaller groupings can make a garden look scrawny rather than lively. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from pink, white and red to purple, orange and multicolored. Plant only tulips of a single flower color in small spaces. Although making use of tulips' wide color variety is tempting, too many colors in a small space have less visual impact than fewer colors do. Plant groups of single-colored tulips in corners and hidden areas to highlight those parts of the yard.
With Other Plants and Walkways
Plant tulips in single-color bunches -- with each bunch containing a minimum of six tulips -- to highlight borders and walkways. Even though the dark green of evergreens is a contrasting backdrop for the bright color of tulips, especially in early spring, do not plant tulips under evergreen trees because their shade results in poor growth. Tulips require full- or partial-sun exposure to thrive. Flowerbeds at the base of deciduous trees, however, are optimal tulip-growing environments because those trees' branches are not yet filled with shade-producing foliage in spring.
Potted Plants Indoors
Because tulips can grow successfully indoors in containers, you can enjoy their blossoms year-round. Tulips look best in a wide, shallow pot, roughly 4 to 6 inches deep; the pot must be deep enough to allow a minimum of 2 inches below the bottom of the bulbs for root development. It is all right to have the top of the bulbs in line with the container's rim. Use a blend of potting mix and compost for the growing medium. Tulips do best in a clay pot, which drys faster than a plastic pot, reducing the risk of excess moisture. Tulip varieties that do best indoors are short ones.
Guidelines for Indoor Tulips
When planting tulip bulbs for indoor use, group the bulbs closely together so they have more visual appeal when they blossom. Fit as many bulbs into one pot as possible without having them touch. Tulip bulbs growing indoors do not naturally undergo a wintertime chill, as they would outdoors, and the change in temperature from cold to warm is what triggers tulips to blooms. Most tulip bulbs require a minimum of 14 to 20 weeks of cold temperatures before they blossom two to three weeks later. Force tulips to grow and flower indoors by chilling their container -- filled with soil and bulbs -- in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit environment. If you are in an area where temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, then keep the bulbs on a porch, and protect them with a layer of straw. In an area that gets colder weather, store them in a consistently cold environment, such as a cold cellar. Depending on when they are planted, indoor tulips can take eight to 16 weeks to bloom.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Oxalis triangularis A. St.-Hil.
Common Names
False Shamrock, Purple Shamrock, Love Plant, Purple Passion, Wood Sorrel
Synonyms
Acetosella triangularis, Acetosella yapacaniensis, Oxalis corumbaensis, Oxalis delta, Oxalis glaberrima, Oxalis papilionacea, Oxalis regnellii, Oxalis tenuiscaposa, Oxalis venturiana, Oxalis vernalis, Oxalis yapacaniensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Oxalidaceae
Genus: Oxalis
Flower
Color: White or pale purple
Bloom Time: Spring and summer, blooms repeatedly
Description
Oxalis triangularis is a beautiful, low growing, clump-forming, edible, herbaceous plant, up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall and up to 15 inches (38 cm) wide. The leaves are purple, trifoliate with leaflets shaped like inverted triangles. They are open during the day and close at night. The flowers are small, funnel-shaped and white or pale purple in color.
How to Grow and Care
Oxalis can be grown indoors as a houseplant or outdoors in the garden. They from the garden center are generally available in the fall or early spring.
Oxalis need bright indirect light to grow well and produce flowers. They can often bloom all winter if kept in a sunny spot. Keep the soil of a Oxalis barely moist but never soggy; allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. It’s best to water a Oxalis from the bottom so that the thin fragile stems of the plant don’t get water logged and the soil stays loose. Oxalis grow best in cool temperatures between 60ºF to 70ºF (15ºC to 21ºC) during the day and 55ºF to 65ºF (13ºC to 18ºC) at night. The soil for a Oxalis should be loose and sandy rather than rich and organic.
Feed a Oxalis monthly in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic houseplant food at ½ the recommended strength. Never feed a Oxalis when it is dormant and the bulbs are resting.
Origin
Native to Brazil, Bolivia, Argentina and Paraguay.
Oxalis triangularis A. St.-Hil.
Common Names
False Shamrock, Purple Shamrock, Love Plant, Purple Passion, Wood Sorrel
Synonyms
Acetosella triangularis, Acetosella yapacaniensis, Oxalis corumbaensis, Oxalis delta, Oxalis glaberrima, Oxalis papilionacea, Oxalis regnellii, Oxalis tenuiscaposa, Oxalis venturiana, Oxalis vernalis, Oxalis yapacaniensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Oxalidaceae
Genus: Oxalis
Flower
Color: White or pale purple
Bloom Time: Spring and summer, blooms repeatedly
Description
Oxalis triangularis is a beautiful, low growing, clump-forming, edible, herbaceous plant, up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall and up to 15 inches (38 cm) wide. The leaves are purple, trifoliate with leaflets shaped like inverted triangles. They are open during the day and close at night. The flowers are small, funnel-shaped and white or pale purple in color.
How to Grow and Care
Oxalis can be grown indoors as a houseplant or outdoors in the garden. They from the garden center are generally available in the fall or early spring.
Oxalis need bright indirect light to grow well and produce flowers. They can often bloom all winter if kept in a sunny spot. Keep the soil of a Oxalis barely moist but never soggy; allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. It’s best to water a Oxalis from the bottom so that the thin fragile stems of the plant don’t get water logged and the soil stays loose. Oxalis grow best in cool temperatures between 60ºF to 70ºF (15ºC to 21ºC) during the day and 55ºF to 65ºF (13ºC to 18ºC) at night. The soil for a Oxalis should be loose and sandy rather than rich and organic.
Feed a Oxalis monthly in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic houseplant food at ½ the recommended strength. Never feed a Oxalis when it is dormant and the bulbs are resting.
Origin
Native to Brazil, Bolivia, Argentina and Paraguay.
0
0
闰土：请问这个植物的学名全称叫什么
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Normally thought of as outdoor plants, Primula are actually excellent indoor potted plants for winter or spring blooms. Although the Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris) can be grown as a potted plant inside, the favorite potted Primula tend to be the more delicate species, with clusters of small blooms that rise above the crinkled and attractive leaves.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Alstroemeria is a hardy perennial plant goes by a number of names, of which the most popular are Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas. Peruvian Lilies are among the more exotically beautiful flowers, and make great cuttings; but they also stand alone nicely in the yard, garden or pots. Because they’re very resilient, you could have them as borders in your landscaping scheme, potted plants on the patio and indoors, or as cut flowers; all them with different colors and styles to add great color to your home and garden. As for cut flowers, a long blooming period makes them perfect for that use, and the cut flowers last for a nice period of time as well.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Blue Puya, or Turquoise Puya, is a bromeliad and closely related to the pineapple. The plant is a rare specimen that hails from Chile in the Andes Mountains. It is part of several cactus and succulent plant collections but is not found wild in North America. Seeds are available to order or you may be able to get a hold of a division if you are lucky. These are the two main ways of propagating Puya plants and enjoying for yourself the majestic flower spires and classic rosettes of this succulent.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Violas are an early blooming plant. These perennials are often grown as an annual. Most people believe they are annuals. They are early bloomers in late spring to early summer. Then, shrivel in the mid summer heat.
They are native to the southern hemisphere. Easy to grow, you will often find Violas growing in the wild, in their native regions.
Small plants produce a wealth of dainty, clear-faced, fragrant blooms in jewel-like shades; yellow, apricot, blue, scarlet, white and violet. Viola is generally more winter-hardy than the larger-flowered pansy.
Viola are popular, easy, and fun to grow. Fill an area or entire bed with Viola for a striking spring effect! They also are great in windowsills and containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Viola plants prefer cool to warm climates, and wilt a bit in mid-summer heat. In warmer areas, we recommend partial shade. They tolerate a variety of soils. Add a general purpose fertilizer when planting them, then once a month after that.
Once your Viola plants are established, they should grow well, even if left unattended. Soil should be moist, but not wet. Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week. Keep them well weeded.
Remove spent blooms to promote additional blooms, and extend the blooming period. This will also keep the appearance neat and beautiful.
Propagation
Violas are grown from seeds. They like full to partial sun. Viola can be directly seeded into your flower garden or seeded indoors for transplanting later. For spring blooms, you need to start your Viola in pots and containers indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost.
Sow Viola seeds early in the season and cover lightly with 0.8 inch (2 cm) soil. Water thoroughly once. They germinate slowly.
Transplant Viola seedlings into your garden after the last frost date for your area. Space them 6 inches (15 cm) apart. They will tolerate a little crowding. If you are creating a flower bed, you may want to create a pattern or color scheme prior to planting. Or, use mixed varieties.
Pests and Disease
Viola seldom have problems with pests and disease. If pests or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.
They are native to the southern hemisphere. Easy to grow, you will often find Violas growing in the wild, in their native regions.
Small plants produce a wealth of dainty, clear-faced, fragrant blooms in jewel-like shades; yellow, apricot, blue, scarlet, white and violet. Viola is generally more winter-hardy than the larger-flowered pansy.
Viola are popular, easy, and fun to grow. Fill an area or entire bed with Viola for a striking spring effect! They also are great in windowsills and containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Viola plants prefer cool to warm climates, and wilt a bit in mid-summer heat. In warmer areas, we recommend partial shade. They tolerate a variety of soils. Add a general purpose fertilizer when planting them, then once a month after that.
Once your Viola plants are established, they should grow well, even if left unattended. Soil should be moist, but not wet. Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week. Keep them well weeded.
Remove spent blooms to promote additional blooms, and extend the blooming period. This will also keep the appearance neat and beautiful.
Propagation
Violas are grown from seeds. They like full to partial sun. Viola can be directly seeded into your flower garden or seeded indoors for transplanting later. For spring blooms, you need to start your Viola in pots and containers indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost.
Sow Viola seeds early in the season and cover lightly with 0.8 inch (2 cm) soil. Water thoroughly once. They germinate slowly.
Transplant Viola seedlings into your garden after the last frost date for your area. Space them 6 inches (15 cm) apart. They will tolerate a little crowding. If you are creating a flower bed, you may want to create a pattern or color scheme prior to planting. Or, use mixed varieties.
Pests and Disease
Viola seldom have problems with pests and disease. If pests or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Flowers of Hellebores (genus Helleborus) are a welcome sight when they bloom in late winter to early spring, sometimes while the ground is still covered with snow. Different varieties of the Hellebore plant offer a range of flower colors, from white to black. One of the earliest blooms spotted in many areas, nodding hellebore flowers are often fragrant and long-lasting.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) is alovely shade loving perennial plant that is ideal for woodland settings. Will naturalize in woodlands and bring them to life in late spring with a mass of bright yellow flowers floating in blue-green foliage.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Nigella sativa, also called Black Cumin, is an annual flowering plant discovered in ancient Egypt. The plant develops an attractive flower that makes a delicate accent bloom for fresh and dried arrangements.
Allowing the bloom to fade and turn into a pod produces an edible seed used as a flavoring in foods.
Plant Nigella sativa seeds when no risk of frost exists. Sprouts appear in one to two weeks and flowers in about two to three months later.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Test the soil pH with a home kit two to three months before the desired planting date to verify the pH is slightly acidic with a value of 6.0 to 7.0. Work ground rock sulfur into the soil to lower the pH if needed. Follow the package application rate based on the current pH. Let the soil rest for two to three months to give the amendment time to change the pH.
Work 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic compost into the planting area to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Compost increases the nutrient value of the soil and is a natural fertilizer.
Sprinkle the Nigella sativa seeds lightly over the planting area. Sprinkle about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (8 to 13 mm) of soil over the seeds. Pat the soil gently to hold the seeds in place.
Sprinkle the planting area gently with water to moisten the soil to a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). Use caution to prevent heavy streams of water that will cause seed run-off. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet, to stimulate germination and plant growth.
Thin out plants once the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall. Pinch off weak sprouts that are growing too close together. Attempt to space the plants 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart. Always keep the healthiest sprouts.
Deadhead the plants by clipping off the flowers when they begin to fade. Leave the flowers on the plant if you want them to turn into seed pods.
Grower’s Tips
Work horticulture limestone into the soil to raise the pH if it is below 6.0. Follow the package instructions based on the current pH.
Apply a flowering plant fertilizer once the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall if you don’t amend the soil with organic compost.
Allowing the bloom to fade and turn into a pod produces an edible seed used as a flavoring in foods.
Plant Nigella sativa seeds when no risk of frost exists. Sprouts appear in one to two weeks and flowers in about two to three months later.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Test the soil pH with a home kit two to three months before the desired planting date to verify the pH is slightly acidic with a value of 6.0 to 7.0. Work ground rock sulfur into the soil to lower the pH if needed. Follow the package application rate based on the current pH. Let the soil rest for two to three months to give the amendment time to change the pH.
Work 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic compost into the planting area to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Compost increases the nutrient value of the soil and is a natural fertilizer.
Sprinkle the Nigella sativa seeds lightly over the planting area. Sprinkle about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (8 to 13 mm) of soil over the seeds. Pat the soil gently to hold the seeds in place.
Sprinkle the planting area gently with water to moisten the soil to a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). Use caution to prevent heavy streams of water that will cause seed run-off. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet, to stimulate germination and plant growth.
Thin out plants once the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall. Pinch off weak sprouts that are growing too close together. Attempt to space the plants 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart. Always keep the healthiest sprouts.
Deadhead the plants by clipping off the flowers when they begin to fade. Leave the flowers on the plant if you want them to turn into seed pods.
Grower’s Tips
Work horticulture limestone into the soil to raise the pH if it is below 6.0. Follow the package instructions based on the current pH.
Apply a flowering plant fertilizer once the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall if you don’t amend the soil with organic compost.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) is an herbaceous biennial that is not native to the United States but has made itself at home. The plant can be found growing wild in many areas of the U.S. and is used both for its leaves and its roots. Chicory herb plants are easy to grow in the garden as a cool season crop. Seeds and transplants are the primary means of growing Chicory.
There are two types of Chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian Endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Learning how to grow Chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. It requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. It performs best when temperatures are below 75 °F (24 °C).
Extended care of the Chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. It requires 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.
Chicory is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet (3 m) of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.
Growing Chicory as a forced vegetable necessitates row covers or individual plantings that are kept from light.
There are two types of Chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian Endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Learning how to grow Chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. It requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. It performs best when temperatures are below 75 °F (24 °C).
Extended care of the Chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. It requires 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.
Chicory is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet (3 m) of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.
Growing Chicory as a forced vegetable necessitates row covers or individual plantings that are kept from light.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Coreopsis are native American prairie and woodland plants. Their ruggedness and profuse blooms have made them popular with plant breeders and there are over 100 different species available, although not all are perennial plants.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Geum is a perennial plant that holds its own in almost any flower border. Its low, deep green foliage is a pleasing backdrop for the tall stalks of dangling flowers that come in warm red, orange and yellow tones.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Rudbeckia hirta, also known as Black Eyed Susan, is a versatile, heat and drought tolerant flowering plant that should be included in many landscapes. Black Eyed Susan plants grow all summer long, providing perky color and velvety foliage, requiring little care from the gardener.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Penstemon is one of our more spectacular native plants. Found in mountainous areas and their foothills, the herbaceous species is a temperate zone darling and thrives in most areas of the western United States. Also called Beard Tongue, the plant produces dozens of tubular flowers arranged on a tall stalk.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
0
0
