文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Agave americana L.
Common Names
Century Plant, American Aloe, Maguey
Synonyms
Agave ingens var. picta, Agave zonata, Agave virginica, Agave variegata, Agave americana var. theometel, Agave theometel, Agave subzonata, Agave spectabilis, Agave ramosa, Agave picta, Agave altissima, Agave rasconensis, Agave milleri, Agave communis, Agave complicata, Agave felina, Agave fuerstenbergii, Agave gracilispina, Agave ingens, Agave melliflua
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Agavoideae
Genus: Agave
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: It take a 10 to 25 years to bloom
Description
Agave americana is a solitary or slowly clumping, large leaf succulent with a basal rosette up to 13 feet (4 m) wide. The leaves are gray-green, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) long, each with a spiny margin and a heavy spike at the tip that can pierce to the bone. When it flowers, the spike with a cyme of big yellow flowers may reach up to 26 feet (8 m) in height.
How to Grow and Care
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets… – See more at
Origin
Native to Mexico, naturalized in many regions and grows wild in Europe, South Africa, India, and Australia.
Agave americana L.
Common Names
Century Plant, American Aloe, Maguey
Synonyms
Agave ingens var. picta, Agave zonata, Agave virginica, Agave variegata, Agave americana var. theometel, Agave theometel, Agave subzonata, Agave spectabilis, Agave ramosa, Agave picta, Agave altissima, Agave rasconensis, Agave milleri, Agave communis, Agave complicata, Agave felina, Agave fuerstenbergii, Agave gracilispina, Agave ingens, Agave melliflua
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Agavoideae
Genus: Agave
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: It take a 10 to 25 years to bloom
Description
Agave americana is a solitary or slowly clumping, large leaf succulent with a basal rosette up to 13 feet (4 m) wide. The leaves are gray-green, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) long, each with a spiny margin and a heavy spike at the tip that can pierce to the bone. When it flowers, the spike with a cyme of big yellow flowers may reach up to 26 feet (8 m) in height.
How to Grow and Care
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets… – See more at
Origin
Native to Mexico, naturalized in many regions and grows wild in Europe, South Africa, India, and Australia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Aeschynanthus speciosus Hook.
Common Names
Basket Plant, Lipstick Plant, Lipstick Vine
Synonyms
Aeschynanthus aucklandiae, Aeschynanthus splendens, Trichosporum speciosum
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Aeschynanthus
Flower
Color: Red with purple calyces
Bloom Time: Mid summer to early winter
Description
Aeschynanthus speciosus is perhaps the most spectacular species within its genus. Its dark green leaves are carried along the stems in pairs or whorls of three, but there are 4 to 8 leaves at the stem tip, where they surround a cluster of 6 to 20 flowers. The leaves are up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) wide and their tips are more sharply pointed than their bases. The green calyx sheathes only a portion of the flower, which may be up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. Both calyx and corolla are slightly hairy. The flowers are orange with the inside of the mouth orange-yellow and with a dark red bar across the lower lobes which also have scarlet borders. It normally has a summertime flowering season indoors and individual flowers last for only two or three days.
How to Grow and Care
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix… – See more at.
Origin
It is native primarily to Southeast Asia (the Malay peninsula, Java and Borneo island).
Aeschynanthus speciosus Hook.
Common Names
Basket Plant, Lipstick Plant, Lipstick Vine
Synonyms
Aeschynanthus aucklandiae, Aeschynanthus splendens, Trichosporum speciosum
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Aeschynanthus
Flower
Color: Red with purple calyces
Bloom Time: Mid summer to early winter
Description
Aeschynanthus speciosus is perhaps the most spectacular species within its genus. Its dark green leaves are carried along the stems in pairs or whorls of three, but there are 4 to 8 leaves at the stem tip, where they surround a cluster of 6 to 20 flowers. The leaves are up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) wide and their tips are more sharply pointed than their bases. The green calyx sheathes only a portion of the flower, which may be up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. Both calyx and corolla are slightly hairy. The flowers are orange with the inside of the mouth orange-yellow and with a dark red bar across the lower lobes which also have scarlet borders. It normally has a summertime flowering season indoors and individual flowers last for only two or three days.
How to Grow and Care
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix… – See more at.
Origin
It is native primarily to Southeast Asia (the Malay peninsula, Java and Borneo island).
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Aeschynanthus radicans Jack
Common Names
Lipstick Plant, Lipstickplant, Basket Vine, Basketvine
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Aeschynanthus
Flower
Color: Red with purple calyces
Bloom Time: Mid summer to early winter
Description
Aeschynanthus radicans is a vine-like plant with opposite, leathery, fleshy, ovate to lanceolate, green leaves, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The flowers are red with purple calyces, terminal, tubular, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long.
How to Grow and Care
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix.
Origin
Native to the humid tropics of the Malay Peninsula south to Java.
Aeschynanthus radicans Jack
Common Names
Lipstick Plant, Lipstickplant, Basket Vine, Basketvine
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Aeschynanthus
Flower
Color: Red with purple calyces
Bloom Time: Mid summer to early winter
Description
Aeschynanthus radicans is a vine-like plant with opposite, leathery, fleshy, ovate to lanceolate, green leaves, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The flowers are red with purple calyces, terminal, tubular, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long.
How to Grow and Care
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix.
Origin
Native to the humid tropics of the Malay Peninsula south to Java.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Achillea millefolium L.
Common Names
Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Milfoil, Gordaldo, Nosebleed Plant, Old Man’s Pepper, Devil’s Nettle, Sanguinary, Soldier’s Woundwort, Thousand-Leaf, Thousand-Seal
Synonyms
Achillea borealis, Achillea lanulosa, Achillea magna
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Achillea millefolum is a flowering plant, up to 2.6 feet (80 cm) tall, with branched, bright green stalks at the peak. Leaves are alternately arranged and hairy. The white flower heads are about 0.12 inch (3 mm) wide, 0.2 inch (5 mm) long and are combined in thyroid tassel.
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.
Achillea millefolium L.
Common Names
Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Milfoil, Gordaldo, Nosebleed Plant, Old Man’s Pepper, Devil’s Nettle, Sanguinary, Soldier’s Woundwort, Thousand-Leaf, Thousand-Seal
Synonyms
Achillea borealis, Achillea lanulosa, Achillea magna
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Achillea millefolum is a flowering plant, up to 2.6 feet (80 cm) tall, with branched, bright green stalks at the peak. Leaves are alternately arranged and hairy. The white flower heads are about 0.12 inch (3 mm) wide, 0.2 inch (5 mm) long and are combined in thyroid tassel.
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.
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0
成长记
Lobster Plant
2017年09月24日
Moved the fiddle to more indirect light.
Noted the yellowing of lower leaves ( that were also shed).
Plant was watered yesterday and fertilised today
Noted the yellowing of lower leaves ( that were also shed).
Plant was watered yesterday and fertilised today
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hc.3000：The red dots on the leaves, I’m getting them too. Do you know why ?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
How to plant and grow peonies, one of the most carefree of all perennials
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
GIVING and receiving flowering plants at the holidays is a time-honored tradition, but one that's fraught with anxiety. Unlike a box of chocolates or a pair of gloves, a living plant requires care to keep it healthy. Holiday houseplants, such as cyclamen, are particularly worrisome for most folks because their flowering cycle and general care are unfamiliar, even to seasoned gardeners.
Florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Flowers with swept-back petals resemble shooting stars and their heart-shaped leaves are embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. In the right conditions, the plants will bloom continuously for a couple of months.
Like many other plants in their native eastern Mediterranean climate, cyclamen naturally bloom in the fall, winter, and spring when the weather turns cool and damp. During the hot, dry summers, cyclamen become dormant; their foliage yellows and dies back and plants show no signs of growth. They store energy for the next flowering season in their round tubers.
The key to keeping cyclamen happy and healthy is to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible. They thrive in cool temperatures that drop as low as 40 degrees F. at night and rise into the 60s during the day. Place them close to a bright south-, east-, or west-facing window for maximum sunlight.
Cyclamen are a bit fussy about watering. It's best to let the soil get somewhat dry between waterings, but not to the point of wilting. When the pot feels light or the soil feels dry just below the surface, water it thoroughly and let it drain. Pour out any water left in the saucer so that the soil doesn't stay soggy. Fertilize with regular houseplant fertilizer for flowering plants.
To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud. Remove these, too. True cyclamen flower buds are long and pointed. Also remove yellow and withered leaves.
In the spring, let the soil dry out and keep the pot in a cool dry place for the summer. The plants will look dead, but as long as the tubers remain hard and plump, they are only resting. Begin watering in the early fall and put it back into a cool, bright window for another season of bloom.
Florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Flowers with swept-back petals resemble shooting stars and their heart-shaped leaves are embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. In the right conditions, the plants will bloom continuously for a couple of months.
Like many other plants in their native eastern Mediterranean climate, cyclamen naturally bloom in the fall, winter, and spring when the weather turns cool and damp. During the hot, dry summers, cyclamen become dormant; their foliage yellows and dies back and plants show no signs of growth. They store energy for the next flowering season in their round tubers.
The key to keeping cyclamen happy and healthy is to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible. They thrive in cool temperatures that drop as low as 40 degrees F. at night and rise into the 60s during the day. Place them close to a bright south-, east-, or west-facing window for maximum sunlight.
Cyclamen are a bit fussy about watering. It's best to let the soil get somewhat dry between waterings, but not to the point of wilting. When the pot feels light or the soil feels dry just below the surface, water it thoroughly and let it drain. Pour out any water left in the saucer so that the soil doesn't stay soggy. Fertilize with regular houseplant fertilizer for flowering plants.
To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud. Remove these, too. True cyclamen flower buds are long and pointed. Also remove yellow and withered leaves.
In the spring, let the soil dry out and keep the pot in a cool dry place for the summer. The plants will look dead, but as long as the tubers remain hard and plump, they are only resting. Begin watering in the early fall and put it back into a cool, bright window for another season of bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
FEW bulbs are easier to grow than amaryllis — and few bloom with greater exuberance and beauty. Just plant the bulb in good potting soil. A support stake is handy for keeping the blooms upright, but little else is required: water regularly and provide bright, indirect light. Blooms will appear four to six weeks 
after planting
If your amaryllis is not already potted, plant each amaryllis bulb in a heavy, 6-8" pot. Lightweight pots may tip over. Plant the bulb, pointed-end-up, in potting soil. Do not use soil from the garden because it will not drain properly. Pack the soil gently around the bulb so approximately one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line.
Place the pot in a sunny location and water sparingly until you see about 2" of new growth. From then on, water regularly. As the plant grows, turn the pot periodically to encourage the stalk to grow straight. Within five to eight weeks, you will have an exciting and dramatic floral display. To prolong the blooms, keep the pot out of direct sunlight.
For Bloom Next Year
Amaryllis can be encouraged to blossom again the following year. It takes a little planning and extra care, but is quite simple and very rewarding. After the flowers have faded, cut the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the bulb. Continue to water and feed the plant regularly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer. Amaryllis will grow a number of leaves during the spring and summer. This will help the plant produce energy for the following year's bloom. In mid-August, begin withholding water and let the foliage die back naturally as the pot dries out completely.
Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark and dry place for a minimum of eight weeks. About five to eight weeks before you want the amaryllis to flower again, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil and resume watering — sparingly at first. Once you see new growth, increase watering. You can expect another dramatic floral display within five to eight weeks. By following these basic care guidelines, you will be able to encourage your amaryllis to flower year after year.
after planting
If your amaryllis is not already potted, plant each amaryllis bulb in a heavy, 6-8" pot. Lightweight pots may tip over. Plant the bulb, pointed-end-up, in potting soil. Do not use soil from the garden because it will not drain properly. Pack the soil gently around the bulb so approximately one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line.
Place the pot in a sunny location and water sparingly until you see about 2" of new growth. From then on, water regularly. As the plant grows, turn the pot periodically to encourage the stalk to grow straight. Within five to eight weeks, you will have an exciting and dramatic floral display. To prolong the blooms, keep the pot out of direct sunlight.
For Bloom Next Year
Amaryllis can be encouraged to blossom again the following year. It takes a little planning and extra care, but is quite simple and very rewarding. After the flowers have faded, cut the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the bulb. Continue to water and feed the plant regularly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer. Amaryllis will grow a number of leaves during the spring and summer. This will help the plant produce energy for the following year's bloom. In mid-August, begin withholding water and let the foliage die back naturally as the pot dries out completely.
Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark and dry place for a minimum of eight weeks. About five to eight weeks before you want the amaryllis to flower again, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil and resume watering — sparingly at first. Once you see new growth, increase watering. You can expect another dramatic floral display within five to eight weeks. By following these basic care guidelines, you will be able to encourage your amaryllis to flower year after year.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A comprehensive guide to orchid care
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Rabbits and other rodents may eat fleshy leaves or into the starchy core of a plant. These pests can be excluded by wire mesh fencing, which should be partially buried in the ground to discourage burrowing.
The main pest is Agave Snout Weevil Scyphophorus acupunctatus, a glossy black beetle-like insect with a pointed snout, typically seen in late Spring and early Summer. The adult insects feed on sap from the leaves and may introduce harmful bacteria. However, the real damage is done by their larvae which infest the starchy core and roots of a mature plant leading to wilting leaves and collapse of the plant. The female weevil lays eggs on the base of lower leaves of a plant that is ready to bloom. The consequences for an Agave monoculture, such as for the production of Tequila, can be devastating. It is unlikely that this particular species of weevil will occur outside the native range of Agaves, but other types of bugs can sometimes be seen feeding on leaves (left). Although Agave Snout Weevil prefer the broader-leaved Agaves, any genera within the Agavaceae e.g. Beschorneria are at risk.
Any snout weevils seen around a plant should be killed and a systemic insecticide applied. Prophylactic treatment with a systemic insecticide of an Agave collection within the native range of the weevil, may be advisable. Obviously this is impractical if any part of the plant is to be consumed or fermented.
Once a plant has collapsed, it is too late for treatment. The infected plant should be removed and burned, along with any grubs that can be found. Watering nearby plants with a systemic inecticide may help to control the pest.
The main pest is Agave Snout Weevil Scyphophorus acupunctatus, a glossy black beetle-like insect with a pointed snout, typically seen in late Spring and early Summer. The adult insects feed on sap from the leaves and may introduce harmful bacteria. However, the real damage is done by their larvae which infest the starchy core and roots of a mature plant leading to wilting leaves and collapse of the plant. The female weevil lays eggs on the base of lower leaves of a plant that is ready to bloom. The consequences for an Agave monoculture, such as for the production of Tequila, can be devastating. It is unlikely that this particular species of weevil will occur outside the native range of Agaves, but other types of bugs can sometimes be seen feeding on leaves (left). Although Agave Snout Weevil prefer the broader-leaved Agaves, any genera within the Agavaceae e.g. Beschorneria are at risk.
Any snout weevils seen around a plant should be killed and a systemic insecticide applied. Prophylactic treatment with a systemic insecticide of an Agave collection within the native range of the weevil, may be advisable. Obviously this is impractical if any part of the plant is to be consumed or fermented.
Once a plant has collapsed, it is too late for treatment. The infected plant should be removed and burned, along with any grubs that can be found. Watering nearby plants with a systemic inecticide may help to control the pest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
These are a very common pest of cacti and succulents, and potentially a huge topic ! There are many species of mealy bugs, but these insects are all small and hard to identify by amateur growers. Their host-plant range and individual sensitivity to control measures are poorly characterised anyway. There are probably several species of mealy bug going around collections in the UK and elsewhere. From time to time one certainly sees mealy bugs which "look different". These insects are small and grey or light brown and so difficult to see among the spines of cacti. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny woodlice about 2-3 mm long. A squashed mealy bug often leaves a characteristic red stain: the cochineal insect, from which a food colourant is made, is a type of mealy bug. Recently, a species that leaves a green stain has appeared in the UK.
Mealy bugs often accumulate to feed on the tender tissues at or near the growing point. Very often, when nesting, they hide around the base of succulent plants, just below soil level or under the old dried leaves of Mesembs such as Lithops.
The first sign of a problem is often small balls of white fluff on the plant, on cactus spines or around the base or under the rim of pots. These are where the females are nesting up inside the fluff and producing young, which may be either born live or produced from eggs. There may also be some sugary honeydew produced by feeding mealy bugs, which can encourage black mould. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection, so it is a good idea to discourage invasive ants even though they are not intrinsically harmful to succulent plants.
Control of mealy bugs
If there are only numbers of mealy bugs to be dealt with, dabbing a little methylated spirit (industrial alcohol, denatured alcohol) will kill them. Some people also spray their plants with methylated spirit diluted at least 1:3 with water. If you try this, remember that the fumes are potentially toxic and flammable and the liquid could harm the epidermis of delicate plants. Small numbers can be removed carefully with a pin, but it is hard to spot them all.
For large or widespread infestations, use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticidal sprays (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions). Wash off as many of the mealy bugs as possible with a high pressure water jet from a sprayer, and treat the plant with a contact insecticide such as malathion (not for Crassulaceae) or a systemic insecticide. Watering with Imidacloprid (Provado Vine Weevil Killer) seems to be very effective against mealy bugs and has not so far shown any sign of toxicity to a wide range of succulent plants.
Some fumigant smoke cones are also effective against mealy bugs, and have the advantage of being a dry treatment, but require repeated use to be really effective. Give the cone a good shake before igniting to reduce the risk of poor burning, place on a non-flammable surface and retire promptly after lighting the blue touch-paper fuse, before smoke emission begins. I like to do a preventative fumigation in the Spring and Autumn when it is too cold to spray or water the plants with systemic insecticide, but it is getting hard to find effective types of smoke cone in the UK.
Biological control of mealy bugs
Introduce the predator Cryptolaemus montrouzeri, which requires temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
Mealy bugs often accumulate to feed on the tender tissues at or near the growing point. Very often, when nesting, they hide around the base of succulent plants, just below soil level or under the old dried leaves of Mesembs such as Lithops.
The first sign of a problem is often small balls of white fluff on the plant, on cactus spines or around the base or under the rim of pots. These are where the females are nesting up inside the fluff and producing young, which may be either born live or produced from eggs. There may also be some sugary honeydew produced by feeding mealy bugs, which can encourage black mould. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection, so it is a good idea to discourage invasive ants even though they are not intrinsically harmful to succulent plants.
Control of mealy bugs
If there are only numbers of mealy bugs to be dealt with, dabbing a little methylated spirit (industrial alcohol, denatured alcohol) will kill them. Some people also spray their plants with methylated spirit diluted at least 1:3 with water. If you try this, remember that the fumes are potentially toxic and flammable and the liquid could harm the epidermis of delicate plants. Small numbers can be removed carefully with a pin, but it is hard to spot them all.
For large or widespread infestations, use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticidal sprays (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions). Wash off as many of the mealy bugs as possible with a high pressure water jet from a sprayer, and treat the plant with a contact insecticide such as malathion (not for Crassulaceae) or a systemic insecticide. Watering with Imidacloprid (Provado Vine Weevil Killer) seems to be very effective against mealy bugs and has not so far shown any sign of toxicity to a wide range of succulent plants.
Some fumigant smoke cones are also effective against mealy bugs, and have the advantage of being a dry treatment, but require repeated use to be really effective. Give the cone a good shake before igniting to reduce the risk of poor burning, place on a non-flammable surface and retire promptly after lighting the blue touch-paper fuse, before smoke emission begins. I like to do a preventative fumigation in the Spring and Autumn when it is too cold to spray or water the plants with systemic insecticide, but it is getting hard to find effective types of smoke cone in the UK.
Biological control of mealy bugs
Introduce the predator Cryptolaemus montrouzeri, which requires temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
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Mworsham：What is the name of the plant in the first photo at the very top of the article?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
These are also very common pests of cacti and succulents, but are found only on the roots of infested plants where they do considerable damage. This may lead to the plant rotting where the damage allows fungal or bacterial infections to enter the plant tissues. They produce powdery white or white fluffy deposits in the soil which may sometimes also be seen underneath the pot. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny pinkish-brown woodlice (2-3 mm long) in the soil and roots.
Control of root mealy bugs
Use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions) watered into the soil, or immerse the plant pot up to the top of the soil in a bucket of insecticide with a couple of drops of washing-up liquid to help wetting of the soil. The plant will need to be carefully dried out after a soaking, especially if treatment must be carried out in cold weather.
As a preventative measure, ground up moth balls added to the potting mix seem to discourage infestation by root mealy bug, and probably discourages other insects. However, the chemicals in the moth balls can cause damage to plastic plant pots and are best used with clay pots. ( NB. In the UK, chemicals must be used only as directed on the label: other use could be considered an offence. ) Root mealy bugs also seem to prefer peat-based mixtures to soil-based composts, although not exclusively.
Control of root mealy bugs
Use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions) watered into the soil, or immerse the plant pot up to the top of the soil in a bucket of insecticide with a couple of drops of washing-up liquid to help wetting of the soil. The plant will need to be carefully dried out after a soaking, especially if treatment must be carried out in cold weather.
As a preventative measure, ground up moth balls added to the potting mix seem to discourage infestation by root mealy bug, and probably discourages other insects. However, the chemicals in the moth balls can cause damage to plastic plant pots and are best used with clay pots. ( NB. In the UK, chemicals must be used only as directed on the label: other use could be considered an offence. ) Root mealy bugs also seem to prefer peat-based mixtures to soil-based composts, although not exclusively.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
The mites are exceedingly small and a strong magnifying glass is needed to see them clearly. An early sign of their presence is the appearance of brown dots where the plant epidermis has been damaged, merging into confluent scarring and sometimes webbing on the plants. The harmful microscopic red spider mites, which damage plants, should not be confused with a commonly seen, much larger red mite 2-3 mm across which is a harmless predator.
Control of red spider mite
The reddish-brown mites thrive in hot dry conditions and dislike humid conditions, so overhead watering and spraying plants may discourage mite attack. They are affected to some extent by insecticides (check labels), but a miticide is really needed to control them properly. Unfortunately, effective miticides are not available to amateurs.
Biological control of red spider mite
A predator Phytoseiulus persimilis is available but requires temperatures over at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
Control of red spider mite
The reddish-brown mites thrive in hot dry conditions and dislike humid conditions, so overhead watering and spraying plants may discourage mite attack. They are affected to some extent by insecticides (check labels), but a miticide is really needed to control them properly. Unfortunately, effective miticides are not available to amateurs.
Biological control of red spider mite
A predator Phytoseiulus persimilis is available but requires temperatures over at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Getting a plant to flower can sometimes seem like a daunting task. If you find that you have no flowers on a plant, the cause is usually related to a number of issues that include anything from a plant’s age to environmental and cultural factors, as well as poor pruning methods. When a plant does not bloom, this normally indicates that there are other issues causing problems.
Common Reasons Why a Plant Does Not Bloom
There are numerous reasons why plants may not flower. Here are the most common reasons for non-flowering in plants:
Age – In many cases, a plant is simply too young to bloom. In fact, it can oftentimes take up to two or three years for some plants to mature, and others may take even longer to bloom. Flowering can also be altered on grafted plants, depending on the age and type of rootstock used. In addition, some plants, like many fruit trees, only flower every other year. Environmental/Cultural issues – Sometimes when you have plants not flowering, it’s due to environmental or cultural issues. For instance, light can play a huge factor in whether or not a plant will bloom. Some plants, like poinsettia, require prolonged periods of darkness to induce flowering. Most, however, need at least six to eight hours of sunlight before blooming takes place.
Temperature – Temperature also affects blooming. Low temperatures can quickly damage or kill flower buds, resulting in no flowers on a plant. In some cases though, a plant needs to go through a cold period to provoke flowering. This is true of many spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips. In addition, the bloom cycle can be disrupted by extremes in temperature, moisture levels, humidity, and winds. Poor pollination – A lack of adequate pollinators can inhibit both flower and fruit production. Oftentimes, weather can be a factor here, as windy, cold, or wet weather can limit bee activity resulting in poor pollination. Hand pollinating plants can help as can encouraging additional pollinators to the area.
Nutrient imbalance – Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but too much can also reduce flowering. Too little phosphorus can also be the cause for plants not flowering. Improper pruning – Pruning is another factor. If not pruned correctly or at the appropriate time, especially with plants that bloom on new wood, flowering can significantly be reduced.
Getting a Plant to Flower
While we cannot control things like age or weather, we can fix factors such as light, fertilizer, and pruning. For example, if your plant is not blooming because it is not getting enough light, you can simply move it to a more appropriate location. If too much nitrogen is to blame, back off fertilizing and wash away excess nitrogen by soaking the plant with water. Then resume fertilizing with a bloom-boosting fertilizer that increases phosphorus.
Learning how and when to prune plants will not only keep them healthy and attractive but will also prevent bud formation from being disturbed. While it can no doubt be disconcerting when a plant is not blooming, a little patience may be in order, especially when Mother Nature is to blame. Otherwise, becoming familiar with the most common causes that inhibit flowering can help with alleviating any future problems.
Common Reasons Why a Plant Does Not Bloom
There are numerous reasons why plants may not flower. Here are the most common reasons for non-flowering in plants:
Age – In many cases, a plant is simply too young to bloom. In fact, it can oftentimes take up to two or three years for some plants to mature, and others may take even longer to bloom. Flowering can also be altered on grafted plants, depending on the age and type of rootstock used. In addition, some plants, like many fruit trees, only flower every other year. Environmental/Cultural issues – Sometimes when you have plants not flowering, it’s due to environmental or cultural issues. For instance, light can play a huge factor in whether or not a plant will bloom. Some plants, like poinsettia, require prolonged periods of darkness to induce flowering. Most, however, need at least six to eight hours of sunlight before blooming takes place.
Temperature – Temperature also affects blooming. Low temperatures can quickly damage or kill flower buds, resulting in no flowers on a plant. In some cases though, a plant needs to go through a cold period to provoke flowering. This is true of many spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips. In addition, the bloom cycle can be disrupted by extremes in temperature, moisture levels, humidity, and winds. Poor pollination – A lack of adequate pollinators can inhibit both flower and fruit production. Oftentimes, weather can be a factor here, as windy, cold, or wet weather can limit bee activity resulting in poor pollination. Hand pollinating plants can help as can encouraging additional pollinators to the area.
Nutrient imbalance – Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but too much can also reduce flowering. Too little phosphorus can also be the cause for plants not flowering. Improper pruning – Pruning is another factor. If not pruned correctly or at the appropriate time, especially with plants that bloom on new wood, flowering can significantly be reduced.
Getting a Plant to Flower
While we cannot control things like age or weather, we can fix factors such as light, fertilizer, and pruning. For example, if your plant is not blooming because it is not getting enough light, you can simply move it to a more appropriate location. If too much nitrogen is to blame, back off fertilizing and wash away excess nitrogen by soaking the plant with water. Then resume fertilizing with a bloom-boosting fertilizer that increases phosphorus.
Learning how and when to prune plants will not only keep them healthy and attractive but will also prevent bud formation from being disturbed. While it can no doubt be disconcerting when a plant is not blooming, a little patience may be in order, especially when Mother Nature is to blame. Otherwise, becoming familiar with the most common causes that inhibit flowering can help with alleviating any future problems.
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