文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Flowering plants, or Angiosperms (described taxonomically as the division Magnoliophyta) are the largest grouping within the plant kingdom (Kingdom Plantae or Viridiplantae) in terms of the numbers of described species. Approximately 260,000 species of flowering plant have been named so far, constituting nearly 90% of all known species of plants. Even so, taxonomists describe many new species annually, and estimates of total angiosperm diversity reach as high as 400,000 species. There are about 450 families of flowering plants, displaying extremely diverse life histories and ecological adaptations. In addition to dominating plant biodiversity, angiosperms are the dominant photosynthetic organisms (primary producers) in most terrestrial ecosystems (an important exception to this rule are the boreal forests, which are often dominated by conifers). All important food plants are angiosperms.
Natural History
Angiosperms are also the youngest of the plant divisions, having arisen relatively late in the history of terrestrial plant life. The first land plants are about 450 million years old, but the earliest definitive angiosperm fossils are only about 130 million years old, placing their known origins within the Early Cretaceous period. However, indirect evidence leads some scientists to estimate that angiosperms may have originated as early as 250 million years ago, that is, at the end of the Permian period.
By about 100 million years ago, during the Late Cretaceous period, angiosperms experienced a rapid diversification in form. The factors driving this diversification have long been of interest to evolutionary biologists. Many scientists hypothesize that specialized mutualistic relationships with animal pollinators played an important role in the development of angiosperm diversity (and perhaps insect diversity as well).
Physiological Characteristics and Behavior
Angiosperms are anatomically distinguished from other plant groups by several developmental and anatomical features. They produce flowers, which are very short branches bearing a series of closely spaced leaves modified to facilitate pollination (sepals and petals) or to bear the organs involved in sexual reproduction (stamens and pistils). Developing seeds are completely enclosed in an ovary derived from a portion of the pistil (the word angiosperm is of Greek derivation, meaning covered seed). Ovary tissues mature to form a fruit that is generally involved in protecting the seed and facilitating its dispersal (only angiosperms bear true fruits). Seeds at some point in their development contain a distinctive tissue, the triploid endosperm, which serves as a nutritional reserve for the developing embryo.
Angiosperms That May Interest You
Angiosperms comprise such a large group, it is difficult to single out a mere few of the most intriguing, but here are some of the most important and diverse (and delicious!) flowering plant families.
The composite or daisy family (Asteraceae) has about 24,000 named species, and may be the largest plant family. The orchid family (Orchidaceae) rivals the Daisy family in diversity, with about 17,000 species named. The Grass family (Poaceae), with over 10,000 species, includes three of the four most productive human-food plants: Rice (Oryza), Eheat (Triticum) and Maize (Zea). The fourth, the Potato (Solanum tuberosum), is a member of the Nightshade family (Solanaceae). The bean (or legume) family (Fabaceae, also known as Papilionaceae) includes about 19,000 species, many of which are important in human food because their symbiotic association with certain nitrogen-fixing bacteria leads to unusually high protein content.
Natural History
Angiosperms are also the youngest of the plant divisions, having arisen relatively late in the history of terrestrial plant life. The first land plants are about 450 million years old, but the earliest definitive angiosperm fossils are only about 130 million years old, placing their known origins within the Early Cretaceous period. However, indirect evidence leads some scientists to estimate that angiosperms may have originated as early as 250 million years ago, that is, at the end of the Permian period.
By about 100 million years ago, during the Late Cretaceous period, angiosperms experienced a rapid diversification in form. The factors driving this diversification have long been of interest to evolutionary biologists. Many scientists hypothesize that specialized mutualistic relationships with animal pollinators played an important role in the development of angiosperm diversity (and perhaps insect diversity as well).
Physiological Characteristics and Behavior
Angiosperms are anatomically distinguished from other plant groups by several developmental and anatomical features. They produce flowers, which are very short branches bearing a series of closely spaced leaves modified to facilitate pollination (sepals and petals) or to bear the organs involved in sexual reproduction (stamens and pistils). Developing seeds are completely enclosed in an ovary derived from a portion of the pistil (the word angiosperm is of Greek derivation, meaning covered seed). Ovary tissues mature to form a fruit that is generally involved in protecting the seed and facilitating its dispersal (only angiosperms bear true fruits). Seeds at some point in their development contain a distinctive tissue, the triploid endosperm, which serves as a nutritional reserve for the developing embryo.
Angiosperms That May Interest You
Angiosperms comprise such a large group, it is difficult to single out a mere few of the most intriguing, but here are some of the most important and diverse (and delicious!) flowering plant families.
The composite or daisy family (Asteraceae) has about 24,000 named species, and may be the largest plant family. The orchid family (Orchidaceae) rivals the Daisy family in diversity, with about 17,000 species named. The Grass family (Poaceae), with over 10,000 species, includes three of the four most productive human-food plants: Rice (Oryza), Eheat (Triticum) and Maize (Zea). The fourth, the Potato (Solanum tuberosum), is a member of the Nightshade family (Solanaceae). The bean (or legume) family (Fabaceae, also known as Papilionaceae) includes about 19,000 species, many of which are important in human food because their symbiotic association with certain nitrogen-fixing bacteria leads to unusually high protein content.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Hibiscus flowers are one of the most spectacular blossoms a container gardener can grow. The blooms are large, colorful and incredibly graceful. The foliage of the Hibiscus plant is also beautiful – the dark green, glossy leaves, provide a wonderful contrast to the extravagant blooms.
Tropical Hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it’s not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it’s possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible.
Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again.
Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF (10ºC) will kill a Hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF (13ºC). They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF (13ºC and 21ºC).
Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix. Ensure also that the plant isn’t packed in too tight in order to keep its drainage is good. Poor drainage could rot the plant’s roots and slowly wear it down.
Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Repotting
Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There’s also some benefit to keeping the Hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving. Failure to repot these plants often can leave them in soil without adequate nutrients for their survival, and repotting will often spur on growth if you’re finding that your Hibiscus plants seem to have stalled out. Watch out for falling leaves or other signs of stress.
Propagation
Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow. Many gardeners bag their plants, which seals in heat and moisture and increases newly planted cuttings’ chances of surviving. Don’t be discouraged if you can’t propagate your Hibiscus plants right away; it’s a process that takes time, even for experienced gardeners, and upon success you’ll find your new plants all the more rewarding.
Grower’s Tips
Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include:
Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter.
After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don’t overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don’t expose to blowing air from vents.
When the weather warms to above 50ºF (10ºC) at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly.
Tropical Hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it’s not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it’s possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible.
Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again.
Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF (10ºC) will kill a Hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF (13ºC). They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF (13ºC and 21ºC).
Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix. Ensure also that the plant isn’t packed in too tight in order to keep its drainage is good. Poor drainage could rot the plant’s roots and slowly wear it down.
Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Repotting
Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There’s also some benefit to keeping the Hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving. Failure to repot these plants often can leave them in soil without adequate nutrients for their survival, and repotting will often spur on growth if you’re finding that your Hibiscus plants seem to have stalled out. Watch out for falling leaves or other signs of stress.
Propagation
Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow. Many gardeners bag their plants, which seals in heat and moisture and increases newly planted cuttings’ chances of surviving. Don’t be discouraged if you can’t propagate your Hibiscus plants right away; it’s a process that takes time, even for experienced gardeners, and upon success you’ll find your new plants all the more rewarding.
Grower’s Tips
Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include:
Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter.
After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don’t overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don’t expose to blowing air from vents.
When the weather warms to above 50ºF (10ºC) at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Bleeding Heart or Asian Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a species of flowering plant in the Poppy Family (Papaveraceae), native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan. It is the sole species in the monotypic genus Lamprocapnos, but is still widely referenced under its old name Dicentra spectabilis.
It’s easy to see where the old-fashioned Bleeding Heart got its name. The pillow-like flower is heart shaped with a single dangling pendulous drop. Bleeding Hearts are shade loving woodland plants that bloom in the cool of spring. Although they stay in bloom for several weeks, the plants may disappear for the rest of the summer, if planted in too much sun or heat.
Growing Conditions
Light: In a moist and cool climate, Bleeding Heart will grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it requires some shade.
Water: Keep plants well watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. Even then, they may be ephemeral and disappear until the fall or next spring. If you’ve recently planted your Bleeding Heart, it would be wise to mark the spot, so you don’t accidentally dig in the area while your Bleeding Heart is dormant.
Soil: Bleeding Hearts prefer a rich, moist soil, but are not particular about soil pH.
Fertilizer: Bleeding Heart is not a heavy feeder, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you won’t have to feed at all.
Propagating
Bleeding Hearts can be started from seed, division, cutting or seedling. It is very easy to divide Bleeding Heart plants. It should be divided after flowering, so you don’t sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring, as they are emerging. Bleeding Heart can also be started by seed or stem cuttings. Plants very often self-seed throughout your garden, although not to the point of being a nuisance. Sow seed outdoors in the fall; the seeds need a period of freezing temperatures. To start seeds indoors, place seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place in the freezer for 6-8 weeks. Remove the pot and all to germinate and grow in regular seedling conditions.
Problems
The biggest foe of Bleeding Heart is summer heat. Gardeners in warmer zones will have a tougher time establishing their plants than those in the colder zones. Leaves are susceptible to leaf spot. The easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although Bleeding Heart likes a moist soil, it can’t tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
It’s easy to see where the old-fashioned Bleeding Heart got its name. The pillow-like flower is heart shaped with a single dangling pendulous drop. Bleeding Hearts are shade loving woodland plants that bloom in the cool of spring. Although they stay in bloom for several weeks, the plants may disappear for the rest of the summer, if planted in too much sun or heat.
Growing Conditions
Light: In a moist and cool climate, Bleeding Heart will grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it requires some shade.
Water: Keep plants well watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. Even then, they may be ephemeral and disappear until the fall or next spring. If you’ve recently planted your Bleeding Heart, it would be wise to mark the spot, so you don’t accidentally dig in the area while your Bleeding Heart is dormant.
Soil: Bleeding Hearts prefer a rich, moist soil, but are not particular about soil pH.
Fertilizer: Bleeding Heart is not a heavy feeder, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you won’t have to feed at all.
Propagating
Bleeding Hearts can be started from seed, division, cutting or seedling. It is very easy to divide Bleeding Heart plants. It should be divided after flowering, so you don’t sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring, as they are emerging. Bleeding Heart can also be started by seed or stem cuttings. Plants very often self-seed throughout your garden, although not to the point of being a nuisance. Sow seed outdoors in the fall; the seeds need a period of freezing temperatures. To start seeds indoors, place seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place in the freezer for 6-8 weeks. Remove the pot and all to germinate and grow in regular seedling conditions.
Problems
The biggest foe of Bleeding Heart is summer heat. Gardeners in warmer zones will have a tougher time establishing their plants than those in the colder zones. Leaves are susceptible to leaf spot. The easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although Bleeding Heart likes a moist soil, it can’t tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Nematanthus (Goldfish Plant) is a genus of flowering plants of the family Gesneriaceae. All of its species are endemic to Brazil. The plant is generally an epiphyte in nature and a hanging-basket plant in cultivation.
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. They have hundreds of small, thick, shiny, dark green leaves and colorful flowers that resemble tiny goldfish. The flowers on a Nematanthus may be red, orange, or yellow. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light.
Water: Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water.
Temperature: Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts.
Soil: It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Fertilizer: Fertilize a Nematanthus every two weeks in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic plant food at 1/2 the recommended strength. Feed the plant monthly in the fall and winter.
Pruning
Remove old flowers and prune back stems as needed to maintain size. Most are trailing plants grown in baskets and periodically they can be trimmed back to maintain the length of the stems.
Repotting
Repot overcrowded plants in a larger container, or divide them and pot them up in separate containers; this will increase your quantity of plants easily.
Pests and Disease
Nematanthus have susceptibility to mealy bugs, cyclamen mites, aphids and thrip as well as whitefly. Under excessive moisture, they can have problems with root diseases.
Propagation
Propagate Nematanthus using stem cuttings from healthy new growth.
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. They have hundreds of small, thick, shiny, dark green leaves and colorful flowers that resemble tiny goldfish. The flowers on a Nematanthus may be red, orange, or yellow. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light.
Water: Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water.
Temperature: Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts.
Soil: It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Fertilizer: Fertilize a Nematanthus every two weeks in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic plant food at 1/2 the recommended strength. Feed the plant monthly in the fall and winter.
Pruning
Remove old flowers and prune back stems as needed to maintain size. Most are trailing plants grown in baskets and periodically they can be trimmed back to maintain the length of the stems.
Repotting
Repot overcrowded plants in a larger container, or divide them and pot them up in separate containers; this will increase your quantity of plants easily.
Pests and Disease
Nematanthus have susceptibility to mealy bugs, cyclamen mites, aphids and thrip as well as whitefly. Under excessive moisture, they can have problems with root diseases.
Propagation
Propagate Nematanthus using stem cuttings from healthy new growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
In cold climates, Snowdrops (Galanthus) are often the first flowers to bloom – and a welcome sight they are. Their tiny, drooping flowers and grass-like foliage give the plant the appearance of delicacy, but Snowdrops are hardy plants, often poking up and blooming despite the snow remaining on the ground.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which Hot Lips falls. Where does Hot lips Grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Costus is an uncommon plant in the landscape trade, especially in temperate and colder areas. And that’s a shame. This relatively large genus of about 100 tropical plants was once classified with the gingers, but has since been moved into its own genus. They range throughout the tropical world and grow with large, fleshy leaves that are arranged in whorls around the stem. The flowers emerge from the center of the plant in a small cone with ruffled, crinkled flowers.
Like many plants with fleshy leaves, they have a truly tropical appearance, which belies their relative ease of growth. These are much more cold hardy than some of the other tropicals and can even be grown outside into Zone 8, although they might die back during the colder months. Indoors, it’s best to focus on juvenile plants because the more popular species among them tend to grow fairly large. They are rhizomatous plants (meaning they grow from an underground rhizome), which makes propagation a snap.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like morning sun exposure, so an eastern window is perfect. Plants that receive more light should get correspondingly more water. They can be acclimated to full sun and will frequently appreciate a summer on your balcony or porch.
Water: They require copious and regular amounts of water. Never let the soil dry out, even during the winter season. Do not, however, let them sit in waterlogged soil or the rhizome could rot.
Fertilizer: Feed weekly with a weak liquid fertilizer that includes micronutrients. They are heavy feeders, especially during the growing season.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect.
Repotting
Depending on the species, you’ll probably need to repot your Costus annually, in the beginning of the growing season. If you want to keep it a manageable size, use this as an opportunity to divide the rhizome and refresh your potting soil, but keep it in the same size pot. Some of the larger species can grow to 10 feet (3 m) or more, so be aware of the potential size issue.
Propagation
They can be propagated by leaf cuttings, but by far the easiest way to propagate a costs is to divide the rhizome or take a piece of it. When dividing the rhizome, look for a piece that’s actively growing or just emerging from the soil. Separate it from the parent plant and repot into a new pot with fresh potting soil. Keep warm and moist, but do not expose to full sun until the first new growth emerges, then you can begin to move it into a sunnier location.
Grower’s Tips
Costus fall into the tropical category, so if you do well with philodendrons and other tropical plants, you should be able to grow Costus without too much issue. They aren’t terribly picky about their light, but the key to successful growth is lots of water and lots of fertilizer to keep up with their heavy demands. If your plant starts to suffer from brown leaf margins, it most likely is being underwatered or exposed to cold drafts. Try to raise the humidity and increase the water. Costus are susceptible to mealybugs and aphids. Keep a careful eye on your plants and inspect them to catch infestations early and treat immediately. Severely infected plants should be discarded.
Like many plants with fleshy leaves, they have a truly tropical appearance, which belies their relative ease of growth. These are much more cold hardy than some of the other tropicals and can even be grown outside into Zone 8, although they might die back during the colder months. Indoors, it’s best to focus on juvenile plants because the more popular species among them tend to grow fairly large. They are rhizomatous plants (meaning they grow from an underground rhizome), which makes propagation a snap.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like morning sun exposure, so an eastern window is perfect. Plants that receive more light should get correspondingly more water. They can be acclimated to full sun and will frequently appreciate a summer on your balcony or porch.
Water: They require copious and regular amounts of water. Never let the soil dry out, even during the winter season. Do not, however, let them sit in waterlogged soil or the rhizome could rot.
Fertilizer: Feed weekly with a weak liquid fertilizer that includes micronutrients. They are heavy feeders, especially during the growing season.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect.
Repotting
Depending on the species, you’ll probably need to repot your Costus annually, in the beginning of the growing season. If you want to keep it a manageable size, use this as an opportunity to divide the rhizome and refresh your potting soil, but keep it in the same size pot. Some of the larger species can grow to 10 feet (3 m) or more, so be aware of the potential size issue.
Propagation
They can be propagated by leaf cuttings, but by far the easiest way to propagate a costs is to divide the rhizome or take a piece of it. When dividing the rhizome, look for a piece that’s actively growing or just emerging from the soil. Separate it from the parent plant and repot into a new pot with fresh potting soil. Keep warm and moist, but do not expose to full sun until the first new growth emerges, then you can begin to move it into a sunnier location.
Grower’s Tips
Costus fall into the tropical category, so if you do well with philodendrons and other tropical plants, you should be able to grow Costus without too much issue. They aren’t terribly picky about their light, but the key to successful growth is lots of water and lots of fertilizer to keep up with their heavy demands. If your plant starts to suffer from brown leaf margins, it most likely is being underwatered or exposed to cold drafts. Try to raise the humidity and increase the water. Costus are susceptible to mealybugs and aphids. Keep a careful eye on your plants and inspect them to catch infestations early and treat immediately. Severely infected plants should be discarded.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Puya chilensis Molina
Common Names
Sheep-eating Plant, Chilean Puya
Synonyms
Pitcairnia chilensis, Pitcairnia coarctata, Pourretia coarctata, Puya coarctata, Puya gigantea, Puya quillotana, Puya suberosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Bromeliaceae
Subfamily: Pitcairnioideae
Genus: Puya
Flower
Color: Green or yellow
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring. Plant may take 20 years or more to flower
Description
Puya chilensis is an evergreen perennial with large, dense rosettes of grey-green, strap-like leaves edged with hooked spines. The green or yellow flowers are borne on spikes which resemble a medieval mace, and stand up to 6.6 feet (2 m) high. Spreading by offsets, it can colonize large areas over time. Growth is slow and plants may take 20 years or more to flower. The outer two-thirds of the leaf blade bears outward-pointing spines which may be an adaptation to prevent herbivores from reaching the center of the plant.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9a to 11b: from 20 °F (−6.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
You can get Blue Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance.
Origin
Native to the arid hillsides of Chile.
Puya chilensis Molina
Common Names
Sheep-eating Plant, Chilean Puya
Synonyms
Pitcairnia chilensis, Pitcairnia coarctata, Pourretia coarctata, Puya coarctata, Puya gigantea, Puya quillotana, Puya suberosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Bromeliaceae
Subfamily: Pitcairnioideae
Genus: Puya
Flower
Color: Green or yellow
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring. Plant may take 20 years or more to flower
Description
Puya chilensis is an evergreen perennial with large, dense rosettes of grey-green, strap-like leaves edged with hooked spines. The green or yellow flowers are borne on spikes which resemble a medieval mace, and stand up to 6.6 feet (2 m) high. Spreading by offsets, it can colonize large areas over time. Growth is slow and plants may take 20 years or more to flower. The outer two-thirds of the leaf blade bears outward-pointing spines which may be an adaptation to prevent herbivores from reaching the center of the plant.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9a to 11b: from 20 °F (−6.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
You can get Blue Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance.
Origin
Native to the arid hillsides of Chile.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Create gorgeous displays while protecting tulip (Tulipa) bulbs from predators and the elements by growing them in containers. Tulips are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, although they don't always come back year after year. Container-grown plants can be interspersed with other in-ground landscaping or used as a focal point in the garden or an entryway. The same technique also works for forcing tulip bulbs to bloom indoors to give a bright, spring-like flair to winter decor.
Choosing a Pot
One of the most important factors when choosing a pot is to make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Size is also crucial. Look for containers at least 15 inches high with a diameter of 18 inches or more. The container can be simple or ornate. Choose your favorite type of pot, whether it's made of terra cotta, stone, clay or plastic. As long as it is big enough to accommodate the bulbs, any flowerpot can work.
Choosing Bulbs
Stay with one hue or intersperse tulips with different flower colors, depending on your preference. Maximize the visual impact of blooms by planting tulip varieties that have similar bloom times such as Single Early and Fosteriana, both early bloomers. For a longer blooming season, plant varieties with staggering bloom times. For example, pair early-bloomers such as Double Early with mid-season bloomers such as Triumph and late bloomers such as Parrot and Viridiflora. If you're choosing tulips to force indoors, select shorter varieties such as Tulipa humilis, which tend to force more easily, according to the National Gardening Association. Start the forcing process in October for flowers in late December or start in late fall for flowers in mid-winter.
Planting Tulip Bulbs
Mix a general granular fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula, into potting soil. Plant each bulb two to three times as deep as the bulb's height, placing them close together in a circular pattern without letting the bulbs touch. Cover the bulbs with potting mix and water the pot thoroughly. Place the pot in a protected, unheated spot such as an unheated garage to chill the bulbs while keeping them above freezing. In early spring, water the pots lightly. Move the potted tulips to their intended location once the bulbs begin sprouting above the soil's surface. Maintain even soil moisture during the growing season. If you're forcing the bulbs, plant them right below the soil's surface so you can still see the tips of the bulbs.
Forcing Tulips
To force potted tulips to flower, first chill the unplanted bulbs for six weeks in a paper bag placed in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Then, plant them in the pot and place it in a dark room that's approximately 55 F for one month before moving them to a warmer, sunny spot to bloom. Alternatively, place potted bulbs in a dark room for eight to 16 weeks, maintaining temperatures of 32 to 50 F. Once the bulbs start growing sprouts, move the pots into a room that has bright, indirect light and temperatures of 50 to 65 F for two weeks. Once the shoots reach heights of 2 inches, move the pot to flower in a sunny area with temperatures of approximately 68 F during the day and 60 F at night.
Choosing a Pot
One of the most important factors when choosing a pot is to make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Size is also crucial. Look for containers at least 15 inches high with a diameter of 18 inches or more. The container can be simple or ornate. Choose your favorite type of pot, whether it's made of terra cotta, stone, clay or plastic. As long as it is big enough to accommodate the bulbs, any flowerpot can work.
Choosing Bulbs
Stay with one hue or intersperse tulips with different flower colors, depending on your preference. Maximize the visual impact of blooms by planting tulip varieties that have similar bloom times such as Single Early and Fosteriana, both early bloomers. For a longer blooming season, plant varieties with staggering bloom times. For example, pair early-bloomers such as Double Early with mid-season bloomers such as Triumph and late bloomers such as Parrot and Viridiflora. If you're choosing tulips to force indoors, select shorter varieties such as Tulipa humilis, which tend to force more easily, according to the National Gardening Association. Start the forcing process in October for flowers in late December or start in late fall for flowers in mid-winter.
Planting Tulip Bulbs
Mix a general granular fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula, into potting soil. Plant each bulb two to three times as deep as the bulb's height, placing them close together in a circular pattern without letting the bulbs touch. Cover the bulbs with potting mix and water the pot thoroughly. Place the pot in a protected, unheated spot such as an unheated garage to chill the bulbs while keeping them above freezing. In early spring, water the pots lightly. Move the potted tulips to their intended location once the bulbs begin sprouting above the soil's surface. Maintain even soil moisture during the growing season. If you're forcing the bulbs, plant them right below the soil's surface so you can still see the tips of the bulbs.
Forcing Tulips
To force potted tulips to flower, first chill the unplanted bulbs for six weeks in a paper bag placed in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Then, plant them in the pot and place it in a dark room that's approximately 55 F for one month before moving them to a warmer, sunny spot to bloom. Alternatively, place potted bulbs in a dark room for eight to 16 weeks, maintaining temperatures of 32 to 50 F. Once the bulbs start growing sprouts, move the pots into a room that has bright, indirect light and temperatures of 50 to 65 F for two weeks. Once the shoots reach heights of 2 inches, move the pot to flower in a sunny area with temperatures of approximately 68 F during the day and 60 F at night.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips (Tulipa spp.) poking their heads out of the soil is one of the first signs that spring has arrived, and the brightly colored blooms don't disappoint in the weeks that follow. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10, most tulips are perennial, and they'll bloom again next spring if you take proper care of them once they're done blooming this year.
As Blooms Fade
Once the tulip blooms have started to wilt and droop, gently pluck the remaining petals from the stem. If you prefer, cut off the dead flowers, as well as 1 to 2 inches of the stem. Don't, however, pull or snip off the plants' leaves. Allow the leaves to die back on their own, because even though the flower is gone for the year, the roots of the plant still rely on photosynthesis from the leaves to feed the plant. Deadheading the blooms prevents the plant from developing seeds and directs the plant's energy back into the bulb. To prevent disease, always use disinfected pruning tools when cutting any portion of the tulip.
After the Stems Turn Yellow
If you don't like the way the dying leaves and stems look, plant other flowers or foliage around the tulips to disguise the unsightliness. After the leaves have turned yellow and died back on their own, gently remove them from the stem. If the stems have wilted or turned yellow or brown, snip them off at ground level. Don't be tempted to do this too soon, however, or it could inhibit the tulips from returning next year. In cooler areas that experience frost and snow, cover the tulip bed with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch like straw to protect the bulbs over winter. Use the same amount of mulch in warmer zones to preserve moisture in the soil.
Water Properly
As long as the stems of the tulips are green, you need to water them regularly. Until the stem dies, the bulb is storing up energy for the winter and water is necessary for this process. While there isn't a specific guideline regarding how much to water the tulips once they've bloomed, it's a good idea to give them a thorough watering every few days, especially if your area is experiencing a dry spell and make sure to continue watering during dry weather conditions throughout fall. Apply enough water to saturate the soil to a depth of approximately 6 inches to reach the tulip roots.
Divide and Fertilize
Older plants might need to be divided after they bloom to encourage them to return the next spring and to alleviate overcrowding that creates smaller bloom size. In warm areas of USDA zones 8 through 10, tulip bulbs require lifting and storing for six to eight weeks in the refrigerator inside a paper bag. Don't store the bulbs next to ripening fruit where the ethylene gas destroys the flower bud developing inside the bulb. When lifting and replanting, dig up the older bulbs and remove the largest "daughter" bulb. Replant each daughter 6 to 8 inches deep and spacing each bulb 5 inches apart, keeping in mind that tulips thrive in full sun. Fertilizing is usually recommended while the tulips are blooming, but you should also plan to fertilize if you divide the bulbs after they bloom. When blooming starts to occur, incorporate 2 pounds of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet into the soil. Incorporate the fertilizer into the top inch of soil and wash it off any portion of the tulip it touches. The same type of balanced fertilizer can be applied right after you divide and replant the bulbs. When adding fertilizer to the planting hole, be sure to cover the fertilizer with approximately 1 inch of soil and do not allow the bulb to have direct contact with the fertilizer so the bulb isn't damaged or burned.
As Blooms Fade
Once the tulip blooms have started to wilt and droop, gently pluck the remaining petals from the stem. If you prefer, cut off the dead flowers, as well as 1 to 2 inches of the stem. Don't, however, pull or snip off the plants' leaves. Allow the leaves to die back on their own, because even though the flower is gone for the year, the roots of the plant still rely on photosynthesis from the leaves to feed the plant. Deadheading the blooms prevents the plant from developing seeds and directs the plant's energy back into the bulb. To prevent disease, always use disinfected pruning tools when cutting any portion of the tulip.
After the Stems Turn Yellow
If you don't like the way the dying leaves and stems look, plant other flowers or foliage around the tulips to disguise the unsightliness. After the leaves have turned yellow and died back on their own, gently remove them from the stem. If the stems have wilted or turned yellow or brown, snip them off at ground level. Don't be tempted to do this too soon, however, or it could inhibit the tulips from returning next year. In cooler areas that experience frost and snow, cover the tulip bed with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch like straw to protect the bulbs over winter. Use the same amount of mulch in warmer zones to preserve moisture in the soil.
Water Properly
As long as the stems of the tulips are green, you need to water them regularly. Until the stem dies, the bulb is storing up energy for the winter and water is necessary for this process. While there isn't a specific guideline regarding how much to water the tulips once they've bloomed, it's a good idea to give them a thorough watering every few days, especially if your area is experiencing a dry spell and make sure to continue watering during dry weather conditions throughout fall. Apply enough water to saturate the soil to a depth of approximately 6 inches to reach the tulip roots.
Divide and Fertilize
Older plants might need to be divided after they bloom to encourage them to return the next spring and to alleviate overcrowding that creates smaller bloom size. In warm areas of USDA zones 8 through 10, tulip bulbs require lifting and storing for six to eight weeks in the refrigerator inside a paper bag. Don't store the bulbs next to ripening fruit where the ethylene gas destroys the flower bud developing inside the bulb. When lifting and replanting, dig up the older bulbs and remove the largest "daughter" bulb. Replant each daughter 6 to 8 inches deep and spacing each bulb 5 inches apart, keeping in mind that tulips thrive in full sun. Fertilizing is usually recommended while the tulips are blooming, but you should also plan to fertilize if you divide the bulbs after they bloom. When blooming starts to occur, incorporate 2 pounds of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet into the soil. Incorporate the fertilizer into the top inch of soil and wash it off any portion of the tulip it touches. The same type of balanced fertilizer can be applied right after you divide and replant the bulbs. When adding fertilizer to the planting hole, be sure to cover the fertilizer with approximately 1 inch of soil and do not allow the bulb to have direct contact with the fertilizer so the bulb isn't damaged or burned.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
During the winter and early spring months many people buy or are given potted tulip plants (Tulipa spp.), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. These tulips have been "forced" in nurseries, made to bloom out of season by careful manipulation of light, temperature and growing conditions. After forcing, the plant's energy, stored in the tulip bulb, is depleted. The key to successful aftercare of forced bulbs is building up the plant's energy supply once again. Forced tulips can be planted outside and will bloom again, though possibly not for a year or two.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips are one of the most popular flowers around according to sunbulb.com. They are a bulbous plant, which means they have underground storage organs that allow them to survive difficult weather conditions. Florida has a favorable climate for many bulbous plants, but not necessarily tulips because they need cold weather. According to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, Florida is in Zones 8, 10 and 11. This means the average annual minimum temperature does not dip below 15 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on your location. You can still plant tulips in Florida by following some specific instructions.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Cool-season bulb plants, tulips (Tulipa spp.) were first discovered in eastern Turkey. Although tulips grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they don't bloom reliably in mild-winter climates unless you dig them up and refrigerate them. In regions where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need to chill the bulbs if you want to see flowers each year.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
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