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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Roses (genus Rosa) are some of the most popular and beautiful flowering shrubs grown, but starting a rose garden may seem daunting to new gardeners. However, growing roses for beginners doesn’t have to be a stressful endeavor. In fact, with proper planting and care, nearly anyone can become a successful rose gardener.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Calla (also known as Water Arum, Bog Arum, Marsh Calla, Wild Calla or Squaw Claw) is a genus of flowering plant in the family Araceae, containing the single species Calla palustris. It is native to cool temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, in central, eastern and northern Europe (France and Norway eastward), northern Asia and northern North America (Alaska, Canada, and northeastern contiguous United States).
The genus formerly also included a number of other species, which have now been transferred to the separate genus Zantedeschia. These plants, from tropical Africa are, however, still often termed “Calla Lilies”, but should not be confused with Calla palustris.
Water Arum is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial with a thick branching rhizome. Leaves are glossy, dark green and heart-shaped. Flowers are small, yellowish green, and produced within white spathe. Fruit is a cluster of bright red berries.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Arum is found in bogs and marshes as it is a plant of shallows, cold water, and wet soils. It can tolerate up to 2 inches (5 cm) of standing water and grows best in full sun. It grows from submerged creeping rhizomes that are horizontal near the surface of the soil. In summer, the growing shoots can be cut off, to encourage branching, and pushed into the soil to propagate. These perennial also frequently vegetatively reproduce by producing offsets through its rhizomes.
It can be grown both in wet soil and in marshy, muddy conditions with still, shallow freshwater. Plants tolerate close to full shade, but may become weak-stemmed and lean. In established ponds with good layer of sediment in bottom can be left to free float.
The rhizome of the Water Arum grows horizontally, running along the surface of the pond and forming roots at nodes. It may suffer from sun burn during high heat periods but will put on a new growth spurt in the cooler autumn days.
A light mulch is necessary in extremely cold, snowless winters. Water Arum will not survive a dry spell.
Propagation
It can be propagated by seed or division of the rhizome.
The genus formerly also included a number of other species, which have now been transferred to the separate genus Zantedeschia. These plants, from tropical Africa are, however, still often termed “Calla Lilies”, but should not be confused with Calla palustris.
Water Arum is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial with a thick branching rhizome. Leaves are glossy, dark green and heart-shaped. Flowers are small, yellowish green, and produced within white spathe. Fruit is a cluster of bright red berries.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Arum is found in bogs and marshes as it is a plant of shallows, cold water, and wet soils. It can tolerate up to 2 inches (5 cm) of standing water and grows best in full sun. It grows from submerged creeping rhizomes that are horizontal near the surface of the soil. In summer, the growing shoots can be cut off, to encourage branching, and pushed into the soil to propagate. These perennial also frequently vegetatively reproduce by producing offsets through its rhizomes.
It can be grown both in wet soil and in marshy, muddy conditions with still, shallow freshwater. Plants tolerate close to full shade, but may become weak-stemmed and lean. In established ponds with good layer of sediment in bottom can be left to free float.
The rhizome of the Water Arum grows horizontally, running along the surface of the pond and forming roots at nodes. It may suffer from sun burn during high heat periods but will put on a new growth spurt in the cooler autumn days.
A light mulch is necessary in extremely cold, snowless winters. Water Arum will not survive a dry spell.
Propagation
It can be propagated by seed or division of the rhizome.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Tulips (genus Tulipa) and Daffodils (genus Narcissus) are often the first flowers of spring. Tulips are available for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, while daffodils grow in USDA zones 3 through 11. Most daffodils feature bright yellow tubular flowers, while tulips come in a rainbow of colors. Mixing the two bulbs in a single bed creates a colorful spring display and can increase the flowering period if you mix early-flowering daffodils with midseason or late-blooming tulips. Both flowers grow best with full, all-day sunlight and have similar care needs, making them amiable companions.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Abelmoschus esculentus, also known as Okra is native to Africa and a beautiful relative of Hibiscus, was brought to North America in the 1600s. This tropical plant quickly became popular in the Deep South both as a side dish and as a thickening for gumbo and stews. It can, however, thrive in any climate where corn will grow. Depending on the cultivar, the large-flowered, fast-growing plants reach 2 to 6 feet (60 cm to 1.8 m) tall. Varieties with colorful stems and leaves, such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Burgundy’, make attractive garden borders.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Have you ever grown garlic or onions and been distressed to see that the plant has stunted gnarled, yellow streaked leaves? Upon closer inspection, you don’t really see any insects. Well, it’s quite possible they’re there but just too small to see without a microscope. You are probably looking at wheat curl mite damage. What are wheat curl mites and what wheat curl mite control is there? Read on to learn more.
What are Wheat Curl Mites?
Wheat curl mites (Aceria tulipae) are tiny, almost microscopic plant feeding mites. They have 2 pairs of legs near the head which is perched atop a cigar-shaped body. Their favorite food, as the name suggests, is wheat, but they also infiltrate fields of onions and garlic. Wheat curl mites on plants become active in the spring and their populations virtually explode as temps increase; 75-85 degrees F. (23-29 C.) are prime reproduction temperatures. They lay their eggs in rows along leaf veins and when conditions are optimal, an entire generation can be completed in 10 days.
Wheat Curl Mite Damage
Not only do wheat curl mites cause twisted, yellow streaked leaves, but their feeding causes onion and garlic plants that are being stored to desiccate. Equally as damaging, wheat curl mites act as a vector for Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus, which is one of the most destructive diseases of wheat crops. They are also vectors of the High Plains Virus, which afflicts both corn and wheat in the Great Plains region, and Triticum Mosaic Virus, which is often seen in conjunction with Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus and can decimate a crop. Because of the serious damage and loss of capitol, treating wheat curl mites is of paramount importance. Sadly, there is very little wheat curl mite control at this juncture.
Wheat Curl Mite Control
Wheat curl mites on plants are found on the terminal leaves and move onto each new leaf as it emerges. Once the wheat dries down, the mites gather on the flag leaves where they are picked up by the wind and carried to other food sources, such as other grasses and corn. Once these die back, the wind carries the mites onto newly emerged winter wheat. Wheat curl mites can live for several days at temps below 0 degrees F. (-17 C.) and for several months at near freezing temperatures. This means they are present for an extended period of time, and ready and willing to do significant damage to successive crops from spring into winter. So how do you go about treating wheat curl mites?
There are no blanket controls for wheat curl mites. Flood irrigation in commercial crops or heavy winter rains can reduce field populations. Commercial growers treat seed garlic with hot water to reduce seed infestation and destroy volunteer wheat at least two weeks prior to planting winter wheat. No chemical treatments have been determined to eradicate the mites. Most home growers don’t plant wheat, but many of us grow onions and garlic. Don’t plant successive onion or garlic crops in the home garden that will just begin the mite reproduction process anew.
Treat bulbs prior to planting with hot water to reduce the population of mites. Soak the bulbs at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) for 10-20 minutes or at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for 10-15 minutes. You can also try soaking affected garlic cloves for 24 hours in 2% soap (not detergent) and 2% mineral oil solution. Some sites suggest soaking cloves in alcohol for a few minutes prior to planting to kill any adult mites.
What are Wheat Curl Mites?
Wheat curl mites (Aceria tulipae) are tiny, almost microscopic plant feeding mites. They have 2 pairs of legs near the head which is perched atop a cigar-shaped body. Their favorite food, as the name suggests, is wheat, but they also infiltrate fields of onions and garlic. Wheat curl mites on plants become active in the spring and their populations virtually explode as temps increase; 75-85 degrees F. (23-29 C.) are prime reproduction temperatures. They lay their eggs in rows along leaf veins and when conditions are optimal, an entire generation can be completed in 10 days.
Wheat Curl Mite Damage
Not only do wheat curl mites cause twisted, yellow streaked leaves, but their feeding causes onion and garlic plants that are being stored to desiccate. Equally as damaging, wheat curl mites act as a vector for Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus, which is one of the most destructive diseases of wheat crops. They are also vectors of the High Plains Virus, which afflicts both corn and wheat in the Great Plains region, and Triticum Mosaic Virus, which is often seen in conjunction with Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus and can decimate a crop. Because of the serious damage and loss of capitol, treating wheat curl mites is of paramount importance. Sadly, there is very little wheat curl mite control at this juncture.
Wheat Curl Mite Control
Wheat curl mites on plants are found on the terminal leaves and move onto each new leaf as it emerges. Once the wheat dries down, the mites gather on the flag leaves where they are picked up by the wind and carried to other food sources, such as other grasses and corn. Once these die back, the wind carries the mites onto newly emerged winter wheat. Wheat curl mites can live for several days at temps below 0 degrees F. (-17 C.) and for several months at near freezing temperatures. This means they are present for an extended period of time, and ready and willing to do significant damage to successive crops from spring into winter. So how do you go about treating wheat curl mites?
There are no blanket controls for wheat curl mites. Flood irrigation in commercial crops or heavy winter rains can reduce field populations. Commercial growers treat seed garlic with hot water to reduce seed infestation and destroy volunteer wheat at least two weeks prior to planting winter wheat. No chemical treatments have been determined to eradicate the mites. Most home growers don’t plant wheat, but many of us grow onions and garlic. Don’t plant successive onion or garlic crops in the home garden that will just begin the mite reproduction process anew.
Treat bulbs prior to planting with hot water to reduce the population of mites. Soak the bulbs at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) for 10-20 minutes or at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for 10-15 minutes. You can also try soaking affected garlic cloves for 24 hours in 2% soap (not detergent) and 2% mineral oil solution. Some sites suggest soaking cloves in alcohol for a few minutes prior to planting to kill any adult mites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Anytime anything unusual occurs on a plant, this gives gardeners a reason to be concerned about their plant. When a plant gets brown edges on leaves or brown leaf tips, a gardener’s first thought may be that this is a disease or pest that is attacking the plant. This is not always the case.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
How much cold will kill a plant? Not much, although this is usually dependent on the hardiness of the plant as well as the climate. Typically, temperatures falling below freezing will quickly damage or even kill many types of plants. However, with prompt care, many of these cold damaged plants can be rescued. Better still, protecting plants from freezing cold and frost before damage occurs is generally a good idea.
How Much Cold Will Kill a Plant?
How much cold will kill a plant is not an easy question to answer. Be sure to look up the cold hardiness for the plant in question before leaving the plant outside. Some plants can survive sub-freezing temperatures for months while others cannot take temperatures below 50 F. (10 C.) for more than a few hours.
What Happens to Cold Damaged Plants?
While many people ask how much cold will kill a plant, the real question should be how much freezing will kill a plant. Freeze damage to plant tissue can be detrimental to plants. Light frost typically doesn’t cause major damage, with exception to very tender plants, but hard frost freezes water in plant cells, causing dehydration and damage to cell walls. Cold injury is more likely to occur as the sun comes up. As a result of these damaged cell walls, the plant defrosts too quickly, killing leaves and stems. Young trees or those with thin bark can also be affected by cold temperatures. While not always visible until spring, frost crack results from sudden drops in nighttime temperature following the daytime heating from the sun. Unless these cracks are ragged or torn, however, they usually heal themselves.
Saving Frozen Plants
In less severe cases, cold damaged plants can be saved. Frost crack damage in trees that require repair can usually be saved by carefully cutting away the torn or loose bark. Smoothing out the edges with a knife will allow the tree to form a callous on its own. To help minimize frost damage to other woody plants, lightly mist foliage before the sun hits them. Likewise, potted plants can be moved to another location away from direct sunlight. Unless damaged plants are moved indoors or another sheltered area, do not attempt to prune damaged leaves or stems. This actually offers additional protection should another cold spell occur. Instead, wait until spring to cut away the damaged areas. Prune dead stems all the way back. Live stems, however, need only the damaged areas cut back, as these will eventually regrow once warm temperatures return. For soft-stemmed plants suffering from cold injury, immediate pruning may be necessary, as their stems are more prone to rotting. Cold damaged plants can be watered and given a boost of liquid fertilizer to help aid in their recovery.
Protecting Plants from Cold and Frost
While saving frozen plants is possible, freeze damage to plant tissue and other cold injuries can often be prevented. When frost or freezing conditions are expected, you can protect tender plants by covering them with sheets or burlap sacks. These should be removed once the sun returns the following morning. Also, potted plants should be moved to a sheltered location, preferably indoors.
How Much Cold Will Kill a Plant?
How much cold will kill a plant is not an easy question to answer. Be sure to look up the cold hardiness for the plant in question before leaving the plant outside. Some plants can survive sub-freezing temperatures for months while others cannot take temperatures below 50 F. (10 C.) for more than a few hours.
What Happens to Cold Damaged Plants?
While many people ask how much cold will kill a plant, the real question should be how much freezing will kill a plant. Freeze damage to plant tissue can be detrimental to plants. Light frost typically doesn’t cause major damage, with exception to very tender plants, but hard frost freezes water in plant cells, causing dehydration and damage to cell walls. Cold injury is more likely to occur as the sun comes up. As a result of these damaged cell walls, the plant defrosts too quickly, killing leaves and stems. Young trees or those with thin bark can also be affected by cold temperatures. While not always visible until spring, frost crack results from sudden drops in nighttime temperature following the daytime heating from the sun. Unless these cracks are ragged or torn, however, they usually heal themselves.
Saving Frozen Plants
In less severe cases, cold damaged plants can be saved. Frost crack damage in trees that require repair can usually be saved by carefully cutting away the torn or loose bark. Smoothing out the edges with a knife will allow the tree to form a callous on its own. To help minimize frost damage to other woody plants, lightly mist foliage before the sun hits them. Likewise, potted plants can be moved to another location away from direct sunlight. Unless damaged plants are moved indoors or another sheltered area, do not attempt to prune damaged leaves or stems. This actually offers additional protection should another cold spell occur. Instead, wait until spring to cut away the damaged areas. Prune dead stems all the way back. Live stems, however, need only the damaged areas cut back, as these will eventually regrow once warm temperatures return. For soft-stemmed plants suffering from cold injury, immediate pruning may be necessary, as their stems are more prone to rotting. Cold damaged plants can be watered and given a boost of liquid fertilizer to help aid in their recovery.
Protecting Plants from Cold and Frost
While saving frozen plants is possible, freeze damage to plant tissue and other cold injuries can often be prevented. When frost or freezing conditions are expected, you can protect tender plants by covering them with sheets or burlap sacks. These should be removed once the sun returns the following morning. Also, potted plants should be moved to a sheltered location, preferably indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
One of the biggest and most popular problems with regard to gardening is under watering plants. Too little water for a plant means it is not getting the nutrients it needs from the water or the soil. So how can you tell plants have too little water? Keep reading to learn more.
Under Watering Plants in the Garden
Everyone is aware that there can be drought conditions. Throughout the summer, there are plenty of times when it doesn’t rain for weeks on end. During these times, you have to water your plants because without the necessary water, plants will dwarf, not produce or worse, die. Under watering plants is the worst thing you could do.
Planting your garden in an area that has trouble holding onto water, such as a sandy area, especially during the summer months, means you will have plants affected by not enough water. This is because the natural drainage of the area will leave too little water for a plant. Well drained soil is good because you do not want to overwater plants either, but there is such a thing as too well drained.
How Can You Tell Plants Have Too Little Water?
Plants affected by not enough water will have yellowing leaves or dried leaves toward the bottom of the plant. If you see this happening, you are probably under watering plants. Too little water for a plant makes it conserve what little water it has by keeping the stalk green and the roots moist, but the leaves will turn yellow and wilt, eventually drying up.
Plants affected by not enough water will also start showing some root at the surface. The ground around the plants will be cracked, and you can be assured that your plant roots are not getting the moisture or nutrients they need to grow properly – especially container grown plants. Make sure you water your plants so that they do not have difficulty producing the fruits and vegetables you are attempting to achieve.
Finally, too little water for a plant means that the plant will eventually die. If you want to make sure your plants live long and healthy, you need to be sure that you supply enough water.
Under Watering Plants in the Garden
Everyone is aware that there can be drought conditions. Throughout the summer, there are plenty of times when it doesn’t rain for weeks on end. During these times, you have to water your plants because without the necessary water, plants will dwarf, not produce or worse, die. Under watering plants is the worst thing you could do.
Planting your garden in an area that has trouble holding onto water, such as a sandy area, especially during the summer months, means you will have plants affected by not enough water. This is because the natural drainage of the area will leave too little water for a plant. Well drained soil is good because you do not want to overwater plants either, but there is such a thing as too well drained.
How Can You Tell Plants Have Too Little Water?
Plants affected by not enough water will have yellowing leaves or dried leaves toward the bottom of the plant. If you see this happening, you are probably under watering plants. Too little water for a plant makes it conserve what little water it has by keeping the stalk green and the roots moist, but the leaves will turn yellow and wilt, eventually drying up.
Plants affected by not enough water will also start showing some root at the surface. The ground around the plants will be cracked, and you can be assured that your plant roots are not getting the moisture or nutrients they need to grow properly – especially container grown plants. Make sure you water your plants so that they do not have difficulty producing the fruits and vegetables you are attempting to achieve.
Finally, too little water for a plant means that the plant will eventually die. If you want to make sure your plants live long and healthy, you need to be sure that you supply enough water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Nematanthus wettsteinii (Fritsch) H. E. Moore
Common Names
Goldfish Plant, Candy Corn Plant
Synonyms
Hypocyrta wettsteinii (basionym), Hypocyrta dusenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Nematanthus
Flower
Color: Bright red-orange
Bloom Time: Late spring to early fall
Description
Nematanthus wettsteinii is a flowering plant, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, with small, glossy green, succulent and hard-surfaced leaves. It has a trailing, branching, and spreading habit. Generally is an epiphyte in nature and a hanging-basket plant in cultivation. The bright red-orange flower has petals fused into a pouch-like shape, with a small opening.
How to Grow and Care
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light. Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water. Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts. It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Origin
Endemic to Brazil.
Links
Nematanthus wettsteinii (Fritsch) H. E. Moore
Common Names
Goldfish Plant, Candy Corn Plant
Synonyms
Hypocyrta wettsteinii (basionym), Hypocyrta dusenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Nematanthus
Flower
Color: Bright red-orange
Bloom Time: Late spring to early fall
Description
Nematanthus wettsteinii is a flowering plant, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, with small, glossy green, succulent and hard-surfaced leaves. It has a trailing, branching, and spreading habit. Generally is an epiphyte in nature and a hanging-basket plant in cultivation. The bright red-orange flower has petals fused into a pouch-like shape, with a small opening.
How to Grow and Care
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light. Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water. Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts. It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Origin
Endemic to Brazil.
Links
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Evie：I’m new to owning this plant and to owning plants in general. Should this be potted in my cactus soil with pumice or indoor potting soil?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Nematanthus ‘Tropicana’
Common Names
Goldfish Plant
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Nematanthus
Flower
Color: Bright orange
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Nematanthus ‘Tropicana’ is an evergreen, tropical perennial up to 1 feet (30 cm) tall and up to 1.6 feet (50 cm) wide, with small, attractive, glossy, succulent foliage and clusters of unusual, bright orange, pouch-shaped flowers that are striped with red.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 10b to 11b: from 35 °F (+1.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light. Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water. Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts. It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Origin
Garden origin.
Nematanthus ‘Tropicana’
Common Names
Goldfish Plant
Scientific Classification
Family: Gesneriaceae
Genus: Nematanthus
Flower
Color: Bright orange
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Nematanthus ‘Tropicana’ is an evergreen, tropical perennial up to 1 feet (30 cm) tall and up to 1.6 feet (50 cm) wide, with small, attractive, glossy, succulent foliage and clusters of unusual, bright orange, pouch-shaped flowers that are striped with red.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 10b to 11b: from 35 °F (+1.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light. Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water. Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts. It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Origin
Garden origin.
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