文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Portulaca is a genus of the flowering plant family Portulacaceae, comprising about 40-100 species found in the tropics and warm temperate regions. They are also known as Purslane, Sun Plant, Rose Moss and Wax Pink. Common Purslane (P. oleracea) is widely considered an edible plant, and in some areas an invasive type of weed. Purslane can be eaten raw or cooked, and lends itself to stir fry dishes.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ipomoea is the largest genus in the flowering plant family Convolvulaceae, with over 500 species. It is a large and diverse group with common names including Morning Glory, Sweet Potato, Bindweed or Moonflower. The most widespread common name is Morning Glory. The generic name is derived from the Greek words (ips) or (ipos), meaning “worm” or “bindweed,” and (homoios), meaning “resembling”. It refers to their twining habit. The genus occurs throughout the tropical and subtropical regions of the world, and comprises annual and perennial herbaceous plants, lianas, shrubs and small trees; most of the species are twining climbing plants.
Most species have spectacular, colorful flowers and are often grown as ornamentals, and a number of cultivars have been developed. Humans use Ipomoea for their content of medical and psychoactive compounds, mainly alkaloids. Some species are renowned for their properties in folk medicine and herbalism.
Growing Conditions and General Care
In the garden, Ipomoeas need moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Provide shelter from wind. Prune climbing species in spring. Under glass, provide full light with protection from the hottest sun. Water freely and fertilize monthly during the growing season, but water sparingly in winter. Climbers and trailing species need support.
Propagation
Chip seeds with a knife, scrape with sandpaper, or soak in water for 24 hours before sowing at 64° F (18° C) in spring. Root softwood cuttings of perennials or shrubs in spring or summer, or take semi-ripe cuttings in summer.
Pests and Problems
White blister, rust, fungal leaf spots, stem rot, thread blight, charcoal rot, and wilt can occur.
Most species have spectacular, colorful flowers and are often grown as ornamentals, and a number of cultivars have been developed. Humans use Ipomoea for their content of medical and psychoactive compounds, mainly alkaloids. Some species are renowned for their properties in folk medicine and herbalism.
Growing Conditions and General Care
In the garden, Ipomoeas need moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Provide shelter from wind. Prune climbing species in spring. Under glass, provide full light with protection from the hottest sun. Water freely and fertilize monthly during the growing season, but water sparingly in winter. Climbers and trailing species need support.
Propagation
Chip seeds with a knife, scrape with sandpaper, or soak in water for 24 hours before sowing at 64° F (18° C) in spring. Root softwood cuttings of perennials or shrubs in spring or summer, or take semi-ripe cuttings in summer.
Pests and Problems
White blister, rust, fungal leaf spots, stem rot, thread blight, charcoal rot, and wilt can occur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rosularia is a rosette forming member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). They closely resemble other rosette forming Crassulaceae such as Sempervivum and Echeveria, although they are more closely related to the genus Sedum.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Uncarina is a genus of plant in family Pedaliaceae. Originating in Madagascar, the deciduous shrub may sometimes be considered a small tree as it grows to 25 feet (7.6 m) tall. Leaves are oval and green and flowers bell-shaped and tubular. Uncarina blooms easily, and when covered with flowers, it is a striking vision. The seed capsules feature small hooked harpoons.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Xerosicyos is a flowering plant genus of the family Cucurbitaceae. Its name comes from Greek “xeros”, (meaning “dry”) and “sicyos” (meaning “cucumber”). There are three species, all endemic to Madagascar.
Xerosicyos danguyi is a large liana with thick stems and round, gray succulent leaves. It is common in cultivation and often called the “Silver Dollar” vine. Xerosicyos perrieri is also a liana with thinner stems and smaller, ovate green succulent leaves. Xerosicyos pubescens is entirely different from the previous species. It forms a large caudex from which deciduous vines emerge. The leaves are lobed and semi-succulent and die back in the dry season and during prolonged periods of drought.
Growing Conditions
Light: A location with full sun is best, although Xerosicyos can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: During the winter months, Xerosicyos are kept at a temperature of around 41-48°F (5-9°C) and are watered only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. USDA hardiness zone 9-11.
Water: They are extremely drought tolerant. A deep soaking once a month in the summer will keep the plant looking good. For pot culture in summer, during the vegetative period, it must be regularly watered, but allowing the soil to completely dry up before watering again (but do not overwater). In winter, it’s to be kept dry. Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Xerosicyos adapts to most soil types, but not too heavy in texture; good drainage is desirable. If grown in a pot as an indoor plant use a succulent plants soil.
Fertilizer: Low food needs. They should be fertilized only once during the active growing period.
Propagation
It is easily propagated by cuttings or by seed in spring. Cuttings grow easily once left to callous for several days and then planted in succulent soil. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days at 21°C.
Xerosicyos danguyi is a large liana with thick stems and round, gray succulent leaves. It is common in cultivation and often called the “Silver Dollar” vine. Xerosicyos perrieri is also a liana with thinner stems and smaller, ovate green succulent leaves. Xerosicyos pubescens is entirely different from the previous species. It forms a large caudex from which deciduous vines emerge. The leaves are lobed and semi-succulent and die back in the dry season and during prolonged periods of drought.
Growing Conditions
Light: A location with full sun is best, although Xerosicyos can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: During the winter months, Xerosicyos are kept at a temperature of around 41-48°F (5-9°C) and are watered only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. USDA hardiness zone 9-11.
Water: They are extremely drought tolerant. A deep soaking once a month in the summer will keep the plant looking good. For pot culture in summer, during the vegetative period, it must be regularly watered, but allowing the soil to completely dry up before watering again (but do not overwater). In winter, it’s to be kept dry. Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Xerosicyos adapts to most soil types, but not too heavy in texture; good drainage is desirable. If grown in a pot as an indoor plant use a succulent plants soil.
Fertilizer: Low food needs. They should be fertilized only once during the active growing period.
Propagation
It is easily propagated by cuttings or by seed in spring. Cuttings grow easily once left to callous for several days and then planted in succulent soil. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days at 21°C.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
If you are planting winter-hardy varieties, such as Sedum sp., Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum sp.), Ice Plant (Delosperma sp.), Yucca (Yucca sp.), you shouldn’t have to worry about any extra winter care. You may see them begin to wither, shrink, or change color as cold weather approaches, but this is part of their normal winter routine. These plants withstand freezing temperatures, with some varieties hardy down to zone 3. 
For less hardy varieties, the problem during the winter is the deadly combination of cold temperatures and waterlogged, soggy soil from rains and snow melt. Many varieties will withstand colder temperatures if the soil can be kept dry enough. Some tips for caring for tender succulents during freezing weather include:
Keep the soil as dry as possible. Stop supplemental watering and feeding around late fall.
Be sure there is adequate air circulation, to keep the winter dampness at bay.
Plant succulents in sheltered areas if your winters are rainy – a good spot might be a sunny location underneath the eaves or porch.
Make sure your soil has good drainage – if you notice soggy soil around your succulents during wet weather, you need to improve the conditions to help your plant survive. Add sand, well-draining organic matter, or a product such as Perma-Till to increase water drainage.
Cover tender plants when freezing temperatures are forecasted. You can use fabric covers, bushel baskets, or purchased frost covers. Just make sure the covers do not touch the leaves, and don’t keep them covered any longer than necessary – they need air circulation and sunlight.
Don’t remove snow cover – it’s a good insulator.
For less hardy varieties, the problem during the winter is the deadly combination of cold temperatures and waterlogged, soggy soil from rains and snow melt. Many varieties will withstand colder temperatures if the soil can be kept dry enough. Some tips for caring for tender succulents during freezing weather include:
Keep the soil as dry as possible. Stop supplemental watering and feeding around late fall.
Be sure there is adequate air circulation, to keep the winter dampness at bay.
Plant succulents in sheltered areas if your winters are rainy – a good spot might be a sunny location underneath the eaves or porch.
Make sure your soil has good drainage – if you notice soggy soil around your succulents during wet weather, you need to improve the conditions to help your plant survive. Add sand, well-draining organic matter, or a product such as Perma-Till to increase water drainage.
Cover tender plants when freezing temperatures are forecasted. You can use fabric covers, bushel baskets, or purchased frost covers. Just make sure the covers do not touch the leaves, and don’t keep them covered any longer than necessary – they need air circulation and sunlight.
Don’t remove snow cover – it’s a good insulator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1,5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro Cactus already grow.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rhipsalis is a cacti genus with approximately 35 distinct species. One of the most popular varieties is Rhipsalis baccifera, also known as Mistletoe Cactus. This should not be confused with the plant commonly called Christmas Cactus; although they are cousins, they are very different plants and are not classified in the same genus.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Bowiea volubilis also known as Climbing Onion Plant, is not related to onions or other alliums but is more closely aligned with lilies. It is not an edible plant and can be described as an interesting, but not as pretty, specimen of flora. Bowiea Sea Onion is another name for the plant, which is a succulent plant without any leaves. The plant grows from a bulb which is often outside of the soil. Growing climbing onion as a houseplant will amaze visitors and give all who see it something to ponder.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Hoya plant is known for its thick leaves and a characteristic shape. They are climbing and clambering so they make a very interesting sight in any home. Hoyas are also known as The Hindu Rope or Wax Plant. They are wax-stemmed and produce beautiful flowers. Many people like to grow them in their home, balcony or garden.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
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