文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ariocarpus is one of the succulent plants in the group commonly referred to as a Living Rock. It can survive without water for up to a year. Even though a plant like that seems foolproof, there are many things you can do to improve its health.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Aloe vera plant grows on kitchen windowsills across the United States. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11, Aloe vera is grown outdoors in mild winter locations along the West Coast, the Southwest and the South. A native of Africa, it thrives in warm, mild climates outdoors or as a houseplant in brightly lit windows and sunrooms. With sufficient light, water and fertilizer, a mature Aloe vera may produce a spike, up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall with yellow flowers in late winter. The real Aloe vera has yellow flowers, but many of the clones available have orange flowers.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are an invaluable plant, because they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Succulents are water-retaining and are adapted to arid climates and soil conditions. High temperatures and low precipitation have forced these plants to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of different leaf forms and plant shapes.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents can safely be sent through the mail but if you are mailing plants from one country to another, you should contact the Plant Protection Division of the Department of Agriculture for their country to find out what the guidelines are about what plants you are allowed to mail and where you can mail them. The purpose of this article is only to tell you how to mail them.
People who have been growers of non succulent plants may not be aware that succulent plants including cacti can be successfully mailed from one person to another and an entire collection can be packed and moved along with household belongings if you are moving your home from one place to another.
The unique thing about cacti and succulents is their ability to survive without any moisture for reasonable periods of time. They are therefore ideally suited to mailing or transporting either with their roots or without their roots.
Here’s how to proceed.
1. Shake all soil off the roots of the plants being careful to break as few roots as possible. Don’t worry if a few roots are broken. That won’t kill the plants. It is much easier to remove the soil if it is dried out. Don’t try to remove the soil after you water the plants!
2. Any plants that are in full growth and seem rather too juicy or turgid are safer allowed to dry out for a few days without water which will harden the growth and then they will be less likely to bruise or rot.
3. You can trim back excessive roots if you like, again with no damage to the plant.
4. Make sure the plant and roots are very dry. Succulents travel more safely if the roots are dry. And most important, there will be less weight to pay postage on! And these days heaven knows anything saved on postage is a bonus.
5. Prepare a label for each plant with the name of the plant on it.
6. Wrap each plant in soft paper – with the label with the name of the plant on it. If it is a delicate plant use soft kitchen towelling. If a stronger plant you can use newspaper. If lots of spines, use two or three layers of newspaper. I like to put a note on such plants to be careful when opening so people don’t stab themselves when opening the parcel.
7. A little different procedure is needed for a few plants such as Epiphytes, Orchid Cacti or Christmas Cactus. If they have roots, they do not do as well if left dry for too long. Use a small plastic bag containing a pinch of damp peat moss and wrap it around the roots only and secure with a rubber band. Actually it is better to send dry cuttings of these than to send cuttings with roots. If there are no roots you don’t need to worry about moisture-just wrap them dry.
8. An important safeguard for succulents sent through the mail is a strong, light weight box. The best type of box is one made of corrugated cardboard. Try your hardware store, garage, drugstore or the grocery store where you will often find these and they are usually free. If the box is too big, it is not difficult to make a smaller box out of a larger corrugated one. Just crease the folds with the back of a knife or ruler, cutting off excess where necessary.
DO NOT use cereal boxes, shoe boxes and the like and expect your package and plants to arrive uncrushed!! Remember your parcel can go hurtling along conveyor belts and down long chutes landing in huge piles with heavier packages on top of yours. Parcels have to withstand much battering as it goes through the post office. If you don’t wrap it right, it will fall apart. You could, however, use those flimsy types of boxes inside the box you are mailing to contain and separate some plants from others if you are packing quite a few. I find them handy for plants with really vicious spines which insist on piercing all sorts of paper but which are quite protected in a box within the box.
9. Pack sufficient extra paper (shredded paper or crumpled newspaper is good) around the individually wrapped plants in your box so they won’t shake around. Fill in also any empty spaces when all plants are put in the box. It is very important that the plants or cuttings do not move around in the box or they will damage each other.
10. Seal the box tightly with proper tape made for wrapping parcels. Ordinary scotch tape won’t hold! Do not use string or twine or cord. They are not allowed by the post office (at least in Canada). There is no need to wrap the box again in paper. If the box has been in the mail before and there are addresses or other notations on it, strike these out boldly with a marking pen.
11. Prepare three labels. Two for the outside of the box – top and bottom and one to go inside, just in case anything happens to badly damage the outside of the box. Either print out a label on your printer or print by hand – your address in the upper left hand corner. The address of the person you are sending it to in the middle further down. And make sure postal codes are shown for both addresses.
12. Write on all three labels in large letters at the bottom P E R I S H A B L E.
13. One final tip. If you send your plant parcels by regular parcel post which is the cheapest parcel rate available .. and spend and extra 50 cents or a dollar to insure the parcel with the post office, you will find that it goes through the post office very fast. They do not want insured mail to get lost so priority is given to getting it there. There is no point paying for what is now very expensive first class mail if you do it the insurance way and save many dollars in the process. And please note parcels sent by parcel services will often take much longer to arrive than those sent through the post office, especially if they are going outside your country.
People who have been growers of non succulent plants may not be aware that succulent plants including cacti can be successfully mailed from one person to another and an entire collection can be packed and moved along with household belongings if you are moving your home from one place to another.
The unique thing about cacti and succulents is their ability to survive without any moisture for reasonable periods of time. They are therefore ideally suited to mailing or transporting either with their roots or without their roots.
Here’s how to proceed.
1. Shake all soil off the roots of the plants being careful to break as few roots as possible. Don’t worry if a few roots are broken. That won’t kill the plants. It is much easier to remove the soil if it is dried out. Don’t try to remove the soil after you water the plants!
2. Any plants that are in full growth and seem rather too juicy or turgid are safer allowed to dry out for a few days without water which will harden the growth and then they will be less likely to bruise or rot.
3. You can trim back excessive roots if you like, again with no damage to the plant.
4. Make sure the plant and roots are very dry. Succulents travel more safely if the roots are dry. And most important, there will be less weight to pay postage on! And these days heaven knows anything saved on postage is a bonus.
5. Prepare a label for each plant with the name of the plant on it.
6. Wrap each plant in soft paper – with the label with the name of the plant on it. If it is a delicate plant use soft kitchen towelling. If a stronger plant you can use newspaper. If lots of spines, use two or three layers of newspaper. I like to put a note on such plants to be careful when opening so people don’t stab themselves when opening the parcel.
7. A little different procedure is needed for a few plants such as Epiphytes, Orchid Cacti or Christmas Cactus. If they have roots, they do not do as well if left dry for too long. Use a small plastic bag containing a pinch of damp peat moss and wrap it around the roots only and secure with a rubber band. Actually it is better to send dry cuttings of these than to send cuttings with roots. If there are no roots you don’t need to worry about moisture-just wrap them dry.
8. An important safeguard for succulents sent through the mail is a strong, light weight box. The best type of box is one made of corrugated cardboard. Try your hardware store, garage, drugstore or the grocery store where you will often find these and they are usually free. If the box is too big, it is not difficult to make a smaller box out of a larger corrugated one. Just crease the folds with the back of a knife or ruler, cutting off excess where necessary.
DO NOT use cereal boxes, shoe boxes and the like and expect your package and plants to arrive uncrushed!! Remember your parcel can go hurtling along conveyor belts and down long chutes landing in huge piles with heavier packages on top of yours. Parcels have to withstand much battering as it goes through the post office. If you don’t wrap it right, it will fall apart. You could, however, use those flimsy types of boxes inside the box you are mailing to contain and separate some plants from others if you are packing quite a few. I find them handy for plants with really vicious spines which insist on piercing all sorts of paper but which are quite protected in a box within the box.
9. Pack sufficient extra paper (shredded paper or crumpled newspaper is good) around the individually wrapped plants in your box so they won’t shake around. Fill in also any empty spaces when all plants are put in the box. It is very important that the plants or cuttings do not move around in the box or they will damage each other.
10. Seal the box tightly with proper tape made for wrapping parcels. Ordinary scotch tape won’t hold! Do not use string or twine or cord. They are not allowed by the post office (at least in Canada). There is no need to wrap the box again in paper. If the box has been in the mail before and there are addresses or other notations on it, strike these out boldly with a marking pen.
11. Prepare three labels. Two for the outside of the box – top and bottom and one to go inside, just in case anything happens to badly damage the outside of the box. Either print out a label on your printer or print by hand – your address in the upper left hand corner. The address of the person you are sending it to in the middle further down. And make sure postal codes are shown for both addresses.
12. Write on all three labels in large letters at the bottom P E R I S H A B L E.
13. One final tip. If you send your plant parcels by regular parcel post which is the cheapest parcel rate available .. and spend and extra 50 cents or a dollar to insure the parcel with the post office, you will find that it goes through the post office very fast. They do not want insured mail to get lost so priority is given to getting it there. There is no point paying for what is now very expensive first class mail if you do it the insurance way and save many dollars in the process. And please note parcels sent by parcel services will often take much longer to arrive than those sent through the post office, especially if they are going outside your country.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Yet another wildflower favorite and must have for the garden is the Tradescantia (Spiderwort) plant. These interesting flowers not only offer something different to the landscape but are extremely easy to grow and care for.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you are fighting your Aloe vera plant for flowers, you are not alone. Most people struggle to get their Aloe vera plants to bloom when growing them indoors. But their usual yellow or orange tubular flowers, grown high on long, elegant stems, are a rare sighting in households due to the inadequate sunlight they receive.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The ZZ Plant gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to ZZ.
ZZ Plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ Plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ Plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ Plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light is good but not essential. The ZZ Plant grows fine with low levels of light, but it’s best to avoid direct sunlight.
Water: Allow the soil to become dry at the top to the touch between watering and do not over water. It’s best to water this plant less than too much because over-watering can cause stem and rhizome rot.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots, 46°F (8°C) if grafted.
Soil: Most well draining potting mixes will suffice that contains a high amount of perlite or sand within the mix (you can add more perlite or sand if needed to a mix that is bought). Good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot is essential.
Repotting
I would repot the ZZ Plant once a year at the beginning of spring, especially during the first 3 – 5 years – whilst it’s growing up.
Pruning
Cut away leaflets that are turning yellow near the base of a stem. Once a stem has grown much longer than all other stems you can remove that stem or cut it to size at the tip. The problem with cutting it to size at the tip is it can look quite odd, so removing it completely might be the best option.
Propagation
You may propagate by dividing rhizomes or with leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings have to be placed in a pot with a plastic covering and then the wait for roots to begin growing, which could take up to a year.
Grower’s Tips
ZZ Plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ Plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ Plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ Plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly.
ZZ Plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
ZZ Plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ Plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ Plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ Plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light is good but not essential. The ZZ Plant grows fine with low levels of light, but it’s best to avoid direct sunlight.
Water: Allow the soil to become dry at the top to the touch between watering and do not over water. It’s best to water this plant less than too much because over-watering can cause stem and rhizome rot.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots, 46°F (8°C) if grafted.
Soil: Most well draining potting mixes will suffice that contains a high amount of perlite or sand within the mix (you can add more perlite or sand if needed to a mix that is bought). Good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot is essential.
Repotting
I would repot the ZZ Plant once a year at the beginning of spring, especially during the first 3 – 5 years – whilst it’s growing up.
Pruning
Cut away leaflets that are turning yellow near the base of a stem. Once a stem has grown much longer than all other stems you can remove that stem or cut it to size at the tip. The problem with cutting it to size at the tip is it can look quite odd, so removing it completely might be the best option.
Propagation
You may propagate by dividing rhizomes or with leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings have to be placed in a pot with a plastic covering and then the wait for roots to begin growing, which could take up to a year.
Grower’s Tips
ZZ Plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ Plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ Plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ Plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly.
ZZ Plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
1
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The Christmas Cactus, no other plant seems to be equal, for its odd beauty or for the number of questions from frustrated owners about its care and culture. Stand beside a plant in full flower and just listen to the comments. Every other question concerns this pink-flowered tropical cactus from Brazil.
“Why doesn’t it bloom?”
“It flowered last year but not this year. Why?”
“How much water should I give it?”
“It rots at the base. Why?”
Question after question about Schlumbergera bridgesii (formerly Zyyocactus truncatus). And with good reason. The Christmas Cactus is confusing. Even botanists don’t always agree, except on where it originates — Brazil. There it is an air plant, growing on trees. Here, in North America, it has become a pot plant capable of a lively existence in the home or greenhouse.
Prized For Its Flowers
Its pendent, Fuchsia-like flowers, brilliant cerise pink with gold stamens against a background of odd, crablike jointed deep green foliage is as exotic as its orchid neighbors in the tropical forests of Brazil. It blooms for about two months at a time of year when good flowering plants are at a premium. As soon as the first flowers fade, more open. Mature plants can produce hundreds of flowers.
Its life span is measured in decades. I know of two that are over 20 years old, and have heard of one that is 32. This is not even close to the record.
Moisture… A Relative Term
Being tropical jungle plants, they need more moisture and shade than most other cacti. But the term “more moisture” is relative. The soil should be moist but not too much so. Be sure there are broken clay pot pieces, pebbles or charcoal at the bottom of the pot for drainage.
Never set the plant in a saucer of water. Too much water causes the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out occasionally well down into the pot to prevent the soil from going sour.
Soil and Potting
The soil itself should be a little richer than that used for other cacti, but since the plant likes a slightly acid soil, avoid lime or bone meal. A mixture of two parts good cactus potting mix, one part coarse builder’s sand and one part peat moss is excellent.
Use a pot not much larger than the diameter of the plant (a 2-inch (5 cm) plant in a 3-inch (7.5 cm) pot). Put in a handful of soil. Set in the plant, spreading the roots.
Now fill the pot to within a half-inch of the rim and press the soil down firmly with the fingers. Place the plant in a bright place away from direct noonday sun and drafts. Try to make this spot almost permanent, as the Christmas Cactus does not like to be moved about. Choose an east or west window as the best location for the plant. A south window with some shading is next best.
Thrives on Neglect
The number of questions asked about Christmas Cactus is more amazing considering that the plant thrives on neglect. Weeks without water won’t harm it. In fact, too much care is dangerous to the plant.
Late spring is the best time for repotting, should that be needed. Transfer the plant into a pot that is one size larger than what it is in now. Then set it in the shade outdoors for the summer.
New leaf growth starts in the spring. When it does you can start fertilizing it about every two weeks with a good liquid fertilizer, following directions on the package.
Time For a Nap
In early fall when nights start to get cool, bring the plant inside and give it a 30-day nap. Place it in a cool, dim location and do not water it for about a month. Then gradually expose it to full sunlight and increase the water supply over what it had when it was outside.
Like Chrysanthemums and Poinsettias, the Christmas Cactus is a short day plant. As the days get shorter its buds are formed. This is when most of the mistakes are made that delay its blooming or stop it altogether.
Avoid Strong Artificial Light
Strong artificial light on it at night will retard the bloom. if you must turn on the lights where the plant is, cover it with a double sheet of newspaper, sheet or towel. Watering at this time, when the buds are formed, is decreased. If the plant receives no artificial light from sundown to sunup, it will justify its name by blooming approximately at Christmas.
Can Be Grafted
The plant is tough and adaptable. It can be grown on its own roots, or those who are technically inclined can graft it on Pereskia or Opuntia and make standards out of it.
Careless handling sometimes causes the crablike joints to break. Lay the pieces aside in a dry shady spot until the raw ends harden into a callus. Then plant them in soil or sand. There is little danger of the cuttings starting to rot.
The pagoda-like flowers will brighten up the dull winter months as a special reward for the small care the plant requires.
“Why doesn’t it bloom?”
“It flowered last year but not this year. Why?”
“How much water should I give it?”
“It rots at the base. Why?”
Question after question about Schlumbergera bridgesii (formerly Zyyocactus truncatus). And with good reason. The Christmas Cactus is confusing. Even botanists don’t always agree, except on where it originates — Brazil. There it is an air plant, growing on trees. Here, in North America, it has become a pot plant capable of a lively existence in the home or greenhouse.
Prized For Its Flowers
Its pendent, Fuchsia-like flowers, brilliant cerise pink with gold stamens against a background of odd, crablike jointed deep green foliage is as exotic as its orchid neighbors in the tropical forests of Brazil. It blooms for about two months at a time of year when good flowering plants are at a premium. As soon as the first flowers fade, more open. Mature plants can produce hundreds of flowers.
Its life span is measured in decades. I know of two that are over 20 years old, and have heard of one that is 32. This is not even close to the record.
Moisture… A Relative Term
Being tropical jungle plants, they need more moisture and shade than most other cacti. But the term “more moisture” is relative. The soil should be moist but not too much so. Be sure there are broken clay pot pieces, pebbles or charcoal at the bottom of the pot for drainage.
Never set the plant in a saucer of water. Too much water causes the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out occasionally well down into the pot to prevent the soil from going sour.
Soil and Potting
The soil itself should be a little richer than that used for other cacti, but since the plant likes a slightly acid soil, avoid lime or bone meal. A mixture of two parts good cactus potting mix, one part coarse builder’s sand and one part peat moss is excellent.
Use a pot not much larger than the diameter of the plant (a 2-inch (5 cm) plant in a 3-inch (7.5 cm) pot). Put in a handful of soil. Set in the plant, spreading the roots.
Now fill the pot to within a half-inch of the rim and press the soil down firmly with the fingers. Place the plant in a bright place away from direct noonday sun and drafts. Try to make this spot almost permanent, as the Christmas Cactus does not like to be moved about. Choose an east or west window as the best location for the plant. A south window with some shading is next best.
Thrives on Neglect
The number of questions asked about Christmas Cactus is more amazing considering that the plant thrives on neglect. Weeks without water won’t harm it. In fact, too much care is dangerous to the plant.
Late spring is the best time for repotting, should that be needed. Transfer the plant into a pot that is one size larger than what it is in now. Then set it in the shade outdoors for the summer.
New leaf growth starts in the spring. When it does you can start fertilizing it about every two weeks with a good liquid fertilizer, following directions on the package.
Time For a Nap
In early fall when nights start to get cool, bring the plant inside and give it a 30-day nap. Place it in a cool, dim location and do not water it for about a month. Then gradually expose it to full sunlight and increase the water supply over what it had when it was outside.
Like Chrysanthemums and Poinsettias, the Christmas Cactus is a short day plant. As the days get shorter its buds are formed. This is when most of the mistakes are made that delay its blooming or stop it altogether.
Avoid Strong Artificial Light
Strong artificial light on it at night will retard the bloom. if you must turn on the lights where the plant is, cover it with a double sheet of newspaper, sheet or towel. Watering at this time, when the buds are formed, is decreased. If the plant receives no artificial light from sundown to sunup, it will justify its name by blooming approximately at Christmas.
Can Be Grafted
The plant is tough and adaptable. It can be grown on its own roots, or those who are technically inclined can graft it on Pereskia or Opuntia and make standards out of it.
Careless handling sometimes causes the crablike joints to break. Lay the pieces aside in a dry shady spot until the raw ends harden into a callus. Then plant them in soil or sand. There is little danger of the cuttings starting to rot.
The pagoda-like flowers will brighten up the dull winter months as a special reward for the small care the plant requires.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Albuca is an arresting bulbous flower that is native to South America and Arabia. The plant is a perennial but in many North American zones it should be treated as an annual or dug up and overwintered indoors. Caring for Albuca isn’t difficult provided the plant is in the correct site where soil drains well, is moderately fertile and average moisture is available. The biggest problems when growing Albuca are rotten bulbs from excess wet and frost damage.
There are many forms of Albuca. These flowering plants all have similar flowers but can grow extremely varied forms of foliage dependent upon variety. It is also known as Soldier in the Box and Slime Lily. The latter is due to the slimy sap the plant exudes when broken or damaged. Despite the rather disgusting name, Albuca leaves and blooms are covered in downy hairs which emit a pleasant scent when touched and the flowers are simple and elegant.
Albuca was first collected in the 1800’s and today there are 150 recognized species. Not all of these are in cultivation, but the varieties that are make especially appealing and unique plants for the summer garden. Most specimens have white, green or yellow drooping or erect flowers with three petals.
In their native South America, Albuca blooms in late winter to early spring. In North America, these should be planted for spring to summer bloom times. Growing Albuca usually starts with seeds or bulbs. Seeds can take 3 years to produce flowers.
An interesting piece of Albuca information is its relation to common asparagus. Most species have a dormant period where they lose their leaves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Albuca bulbs require sandy, loose soil in full to partial sun to produce their characteristic blooms. The plants can grow 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm) tall with a slightly smaller width. Good cultivation encourages removal of the bulb from the outdoors in zones with frost. They are not frost hardy and cold temperatures can damage the bulb.
These South African natives look particularly attractive in rock gardens, slopes and even containers. The biggest requirement for Albuca care is superior drainage. The regions to which they are native are not known for consistent moisture, which means it is drought tolerant once established. Consistent watering at planting is necessary to mimic the rainy season but thereafter, light watering is all that is necessary when caring for Albuca.
Fertilize the bulbs annually at installation and in the early spring with a good all-purpose bulb food. Cut back spent foliage after it yellows and begins to wilt.
Propagation
The best way to propagate is from offsets, which can be divided away from the parent plant and separately planted. Not all Albuca produce offsets so you may need to rely upon seeds to get more of these exciting plants.
Fresh seeds generally germinate a week after sowing. They should be planted at the same time the parent plant is actively resprouting. It needs to be planted fairly quickly, as seed has a viability period of only about 6 months. Once planted, keep seedlings moderately moist in medium light and a warm area. In about 3 years, you can look forward to another plant which may be different from the parent plant, as these seeds tend to hybridize easily.
There are many forms of Albuca. These flowering plants all have similar flowers but can grow extremely varied forms of foliage dependent upon variety. It is also known as Soldier in the Box and Slime Lily. The latter is due to the slimy sap the plant exudes when broken or damaged. Despite the rather disgusting name, Albuca leaves and blooms are covered in downy hairs which emit a pleasant scent when touched and the flowers are simple and elegant.
Albuca was first collected in the 1800’s and today there are 150 recognized species. Not all of these are in cultivation, but the varieties that are make especially appealing and unique plants for the summer garden. Most specimens have white, green or yellow drooping or erect flowers with three petals.
In their native South America, Albuca blooms in late winter to early spring. In North America, these should be planted for spring to summer bloom times. Growing Albuca usually starts with seeds or bulbs. Seeds can take 3 years to produce flowers.
An interesting piece of Albuca information is its relation to common asparagus. Most species have a dormant period where they lose their leaves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Albuca bulbs require sandy, loose soil in full to partial sun to produce their characteristic blooms. The plants can grow 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm) tall with a slightly smaller width. Good cultivation encourages removal of the bulb from the outdoors in zones with frost. They are not frost hardy and cold temperatures can damage the bulb.
These South African natives look particularly attractive in rock gardens, slopes and even containers. The biggest requirement for Albuca care is superior drainage. The regions to which they are native are not known for consistent moisture, which means it is drought tolerant once established. Consistent watering at planting is necessary to mimic the rainy season but thereafter, light watering is all that is necessary when caring for Albuca.
Fertilize the bulbs annually at installation and in the early spring with a good all-purpose bulb food. Cut back spent foliage after it yellows and begins to wilt.
Propagation
The best way to propagate is from offsets, which can be divided away from the parent plant and separately planted. Not all Albuca produce offsets so you may need to rely upon seeds to get more of these exciting plants.
Fresh seeds generally germinate a week after sowing. They should be planted at the same time the parent plant is actively resprouting. It needs to be planted fairly quickly, as seed has a viability period of only about 6 months. Once planted, keep seedlings moderately moist in medium light and a warm area. In about 3 years, you can look forward to another plant which may be different from the parent plant, as these seeds tend to hybridize easily.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The genus Anacampseros was recently (1994) split into Anacampseros and Avonia from South Africa, and Grahamia from the Americas and Australia. Many plant labels and plant nurseries have not yet caught up with this change, so all these plants may still be seen labelled as Anacampseros.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It’s been said that succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful gardeners. They’re great for indoor gardening and require very little maintenance. As nearly indestructible as they can be, however, I’ve still managed to kill every succulent I’ve had. Perhaps it’s the busy lifestyle that causes my negligent gardening care, or the fact that I’ve come to the realization that I actually don’t know the proper way to care for my ounce of greenery. If you’re like me, don’t wallow in distress! Here we’ve compiled some tips for keeping your succulent happy and alive!
First, let’s learn a bit about succulents. Succulents are plants that thrive in hot, dry places. This doesn’t mean, however, that these desert plants don’t love their sunshine. With thick and fleshy organs, they’re able to store water in their leaves, stems or roots – taking advantage of what ever water is available and holding onto it for later use. This makes succulents highly adaptable to arid conditions or any environment too dry for most other plants.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk about light. As mentioned before, desert plants need sunshine too! As much as you’d like your succulent to thrive in the dim corner of your room, they can’t. Giving your indoor succulent as much natural light as possible is imperative. While succulents might prefer the direct sunshine, they can easily adapt to lower light. As long as there’s at least some exposure to light, your succulent should be happy.
In addition to lighting, water is an important element. As a general rule of thumb, succulents don’t like to be watered that often. Typically in the summer, you might water your succulent once a week. In the winter, that might change to once a month. Be weary about overwatering your plant. Succulents don’t like to sit in water. Instead, water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely between watering.
Lastly, think about the environment. Typically, the greener the succulent, the greater the chances they’ll survive indoors. Indoor succulents increase their life expectancy when they’re spaced apart. This allows for maximum sunlight. Succulents that are outdoors, however, can thrive in crowded compositions.
So what are you waiting for? Stop yearning for that greenery, and start planting! You’re already one step closer to mastering the art of urban, indoor gardening.
First, let’s learn a bit about succulents. Succulents are plants that thrive in hot, dry places. This doesn’t mean, however, that these desert plants don’t love their sunshine. With thick and fleshy organs, they’re able to store water in their leaves, stems or roots – taking advantage of what ever water is available and holding onto it for later use. This makes succulents highly adaptable to arid conditions or any environment too dry for most other plants.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk about light. As mentioned before, desert plants need sunshine too! As much as you’d like your succulent to thrive in the dim corner of your room, they can’t. Giving your indoor succulent as much natural light as possible is imperative. While succulents might prefer the direct sunshine, they can easily adapt to lower light. As long as there’s at least some exposure to light, your succulent should be happy.
In addition to lighting, water is an important element. As a general rule of thumb, succulents don’t like to be watered that often. Typically in the summer, you might water your succulent once a week. In the winter, that might change to once a month. Be weary about overwatering your plant. Succulents don’t like to sit in water. Instead, water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely between watering.
Lastly, think about the environment. Typically, the greener the succulent, the greater the chances they’ll survive indoors. Indoor succulents increase their life expectancy when they’re spaced apart. This allows for maximum sunlight. Succulents that are outdoors, however, can thrive in crowded compositions.
So what are you waiting for? Stop yearning for that greenery, and start planting! You’re already one step closer to mastering the art of urban, indoor gardening.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
People have been growing Aloe vera for literally thousands of years. It is one of the most widely used medicinal plants on the planet. If you are wondering, “How can I grow an aloe plant?” We are here to tell you that taking care of an Aloe Vera plant in your home is easy.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
3
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Butterwort plants (Pinguicula) are tiny plants that can go unrecognized until they bloom. The leaves are a soft greenish-yellow color, which probably led to the name. It could also be from the slightly greasy or “buttery” feel of the leaves. The plant forms low rosettes and blooms in spring with yellow, pink, purple or white flowers.
Site conditions must be considered when learning how to grow Butterworts. They like alkaline soil where nutrients are poor and the site is warm and moist to boggy. The plant’s leaves have a coating of an insect-trapping resin. The prey of choice for these tiny plants is gnats, which give up valuable nitrogen for the plant to use.
Growing Conditions
You can grow Butterwort plants outside in temperate to warm zones or in a pot as annuals. In USDA zones 10 and 11, the plants will persist as perennials and grow new rosettes, multiplying the plant’s diminutive size. The best soil for container plants is a mix of sphagnum moss with equal parts vermiculite or sand. Plants situated outdoors will do best in moist soil or even near water.
Butterworts thrive in sun to partial shade. The plants must never dry out, though potted plants should also have good drainage. They must experience a dormancy period to regrow and bloom each spring. Cut back the dead leaves in late winter or early spring to encourage the new growth.
General Care
The Butterwort plant is fairly self sufficient. It should not be grown indoors unless you have a gnat problem, but outside it can gather its own food. The plant attracts tiny insects, which get stuck in the slimy, slick coating on the leaves. Their struggle encourages the release of a digestive enzyme. Provided the plant is in correct light, temperature and moist conditions, the little Butterwort will thrive. It is not bothered by many diseases or pests. The most important consideration for Butterwort care is the quality and frequency of water. The plant cannot dry out or it may die. The type of water is crucial, however, as the plant is sensitive to certain minerals and concentrations of salt. Use rainwater if possible, otherwise purchase distilled water.
Site conditions must be considered when learning how to grow Butterworts. They like alkaline soil where nutrients are poor and the site is warm and moist to boggy. The plant’s leaves have a coating of an insect-trapping resin. The prey of choice for these tiny plants is gnats, which give up valuable nitrogen for the plant to use.
Growing Conditions
You can grow Butterwort plants outside in temperate to warm zones or in a pot as annuals. In USDA zones 10 and 11, the plants will persist as perennials and grow new rosettes, multiplying the plant’s diminutive size. The best soil for container plants is a mix of sphagnum moss with equal parts vermiculite or sand. Plants situated outdoors will do best in moist soil or even near water.
Butterworts thrive in sun to partial shade. The plants must never dry out, though potted plants should also have good drainage. They must experience a dormancy period to regrow and bloom each spring. Cut back the dead leaves in late winter or early spring to encourage the new growth.
General Care
The Butterwort plant is fairly self sufficient. It should not be grown indoors unless you have a gnat problem, but outside it can gather its own food. The plant attracts tiny insects, which get stuck in the slimy, slick coating on the leaves. Their struggle encourages the release of a digestive enzyme. Provided the plant is in correct light, temperature and moist conditions, the little Butterwort will thrive. It is not bothered by many diseases or pests. The most important consideration for Butterwort care is the quality and frequency of water. The plant cannot dry out or it may die. The type of water is crucial, however, as the plant is sensitive to certain minerals and concentrations of salt. Use rainwater if possible, otherwise purchase distilled water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Once you’ve got your plants home, if you’re going to plant them in the garden, you need to do it right. By “right,” it means to create a succulent garden or add them to your garden using the same principles as an English garden.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
1
2
