文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月30日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about ½–2½' tall that is either unbranched or occasionally branched. The stems are light to medium green, terete, and glabrous to sparsely pubescent. The alternate leaves are more closely spaced together along the upper stems than the lower ones, providing the plant with a flat-topped appearance. The blades of individual leaves are up to 3" long and 2¼" across, medium green, ovate to broadly ovate, and crenate-serrate along the margins. The upper surfaces of the blades are sparsely covered with fine appressed hairs or they are hairless. The long slender petioles are up to 2½" long and light to medium green; they are covered with fine appressed hairs, or hairless. Sometimes the blades of the leaves droop from their petioles.
Deam's Mercury is monoecious with separate staminate (male) and pistillate (female) flowers on the same plant. Both types of flowers develop together from the axils of the leaves; they are surrounded by foliaceous floral bracts that are palmately divided into 5-9 lobes. Individual bracts are about ½" tall and a little longer across; they are light to medium green and either widely open or loosely folded in one direction. Individual lobes of the floral bracts are about ¼" long, lanceolate in shape, and ciliate. From the middle of each floral bract, the staminate flowers form a single spike-like raceme on a peduncle. Together, the raceme and its peduncle are about ½" long at maturity. Individual staminate flowers are less than 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of a 4-lobed calyx, several stamens with yellow anthers, and no petals. There are also 1-3 pistillate flowers that areDistribution Map hidden at the base of each floral bract; individual pistillate flowers consist of an ovary with finely branched styles, insignificant sepals, and no petals. The ovary is sometimes finely hairy near its apex. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall and lasts about 2-3 months; only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Cross-pollination occurs by wind. Each ovary matures into a seed capsule (about ¼" across) that is globoid, slightly flattened, and 2-valved. Each valve of the capsule contains a single seed. Individual mature seeds are 2-3 mm. long (or longer), ovoid, and dark-colored. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself. The leaves become copper-colored during the fall.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist conditions, and soil consisting of sandy loam or gravelly loam. Most growth and development occurs during the summer and early fall.
Range & Habitat: The native Deam's Mercury is a rare plant that has been found in a few counties of east-central and southern Illinois. This plant is also uncommon in other states where it has been found. Habitats consist of bottomland woodlands along rivers, openings in bottomland woods, areas along paths in bottomland woods, woodland edges, and semi-shaded to shaded areas along roads. Deam's Mercury appears to prefer areas that are subjected to occasional flooding during the spring. Such areas typically have flood-deposited sand, silt, or gravel and scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The flea beetles Hornaltica bicolorata and Margaridisa atriventris feed on Acalypha spp. The seeds of these plants are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Swamp Sparrow, while White-Tailed Deer browse on the foliage (primarily during the summer and fall). Deam's Mercury and similar species lack the toxic white latex that is typical of species in the Spurge family (Euphorbiaceae).
Photographic Location: Along a path of a bottomland woodland near the Embarass River in Coles County, Illinois (Fox Ridge State Park).
Comments: Deam's Mercury is the least common native Acalypha spp. in Illinois. It has 2-valved seed capsules, larger seeds (exceeding 2 mm. long), and tends to have wider leaves than other Acalypha spp. It is most similar to the very common Acalypha rhomboidea, which has similar floral bracts with 5-9 lobes, but differs from this species in the characteristics that are mentioned above. In the past, Deam's Mercury has been regarded as a variety of Acalypha rhomboidea, but it is now considered a distinct species. Other common names of Acalypha deamii are Deam's Copperleaf, Large-Seeded Copperleaf, and Large-Seeded Mercury.
Deam's Mercury is monoecious with separate staminate (male) and pistillate (female) flowers on the same plant. Both types of flowers develop together from the axils of the leaves; they are surrounded by foliaceous floral bracts that are palmately divided into 5-9 lobes. Individual bracts are about ½" tall and a little longer across; they are light to medium green and either widely open or loosely folded in one direction. Individual lobes of the floral bracts are about ¼" long, lanceolate in shape, and ciliate. From the middle of each floral bract, the staminate flowers form a single spike-like raceme on a peduncle. Together, the raceme and its peduncle are about ½" long at maturity. Individual staminate flowers are less than 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of a 4-lobed calyx, several stamens with yellow anthers, and no petals. There are also 1-3 pistillate flowers that areDistribution Map hidden at the base of each floral bract; individual pistillate flowers consist of an ovary with finely branched styles, insignificant sepals, and no petals. The ovary is sometimes finely hairy near its apex. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall and lasts about 2-3 months; only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Cross-pollination occurs by wind. Each ovary matures into a seed capsule (about ¼" across) that is globoid, slightly flattened, and 2-valved. Each valve of the capsule contains a single seed. Individual mature seeds are 2-3 mm. long (or longer), ovoid, and dark-colored. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself. The leaves become copper-colored during the fall.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist conditions, and soil consisting of sandy loam or gravelly loam. Most growth and development occurs during the summer and early fall.
Range & Habitat: The native Deam's Mercury is a rare plant that has been found in a few counties of east-central and southern Illinois. This plant is also uncommon in other states where it has been found. Habitats consist of bottomland woodlands along rivers, openings in bottomland woods, areas along paths in bottomland woods, woodland edges, and semi-shaded to shaded areas along roads. Deam's Mercury appears to prefer areas that are subjected to occasional flooding during the spring. Such areas typically have flood-deposited sand, silt, or gravel and scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The flea beetles Hornaltica bicolorata and Margaridisa atriventris feed on Acalypha spp. The seeds of these plants are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Swamp Sparrow, while White-Tailed Deer browse on the foliage (primarily during the summer and fall). Deam's Mercury and similar species lack the toxic white latex that is typical of species in the Spurge family (Euphorbiaceae).
Photographic Location: Along a path of a bottomland woodland near the Embarass River in Coles County, Illinois (Fox Ridge State Park).
Comments: Deam's Mercury is the least common native Acalypha spp. in Illinois. It has 2-valved seed capsules, larger seeds (exceeding 2 mm. long), and tends to have wider leaves than other Acalypha spp. It is most similar to the very common Acalypha rhomboidea, which has similar floral bracts with 5-9 lobes, but differs from this species in the characteristics that are mentioned above. In the past, Deam's Mercury has been regarded as a variety of Acalypha rhomboidea, but it is now considered a distinct species. Other common names of Acalypha deamii are Deam's Copperleaf, Large-Seeded Copperleaf, and Large-Seeded Mercury.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
If you enjoy vegetable gardening, you can grow more in less space if you plant certain crops on a trellis. Many types of vining plants grow well when trained onto a trellis, which keeps vegetables off the ground, evenly exposes the entire plant to sun and makes harvesting easier by eliminating the need to bend over when picking the crop.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
Baby broccoli, often referred to as broccolini, is similar in appearance to a young broccoli plant that has long shoots. Featuring an asparagus-like flavor, this vegetable was developed by crossing Chinese kale and broccoli. It contains high levels of bitamins A and C, iron, fiber and potassium. By growing baby broccoli at home, gardeners can maintain a regular supply of this uncommon vegetable. Although growing baby broccoli in the garden is similar to growing regular broccoli, it requires more personal attention in order for the plant to produce sweet, long and tender shoots.
Step 1
Begin sowing the baby broccoli seeds two or four weeks before the last frost. Baby broccoli is a member of the crucifer family. Members of this family thrive in cooler weather conditions and may perform slow or die altogether if subjected to the hot weather of midsummer.
Step 2
Fill 4-inch peat containers with seed starter mix. Pour water into the peat containers until the starter mix is damp. Create a hole 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep in each peat container with your little finger.
Step 3
Drop one baby broccoli seed into each hole and cover with surrounding starter mix. Drape plastic wrap over all the peat containers to create a makeshift greenhouse.
Step 4
Move the baby broccoli to a flat surface and place a grow light above the peat containers. Keep the grow light turned on for 12 to 14 hours every day.
Step 5
Lift the plastic wrap and moisten the starter mix until damp two or three times weekly. Remove the covering when the baby broccoli seeds begin to grow through the starter mix.
Step 6
Transplant the baby broccoli to the garden immediately following the last frost. Keep the baby broccoli in their peat containers to avoid distressing the roots. Plant the baby broccoli 12 inches apart.
Step 7
Pinch the center bloom of the baby broccoli plants as it begins to grow. If allowed to grow, the center bloom will inhibit the edible side shoots from properly growing. Continue to pinch off the center bloom throughout the growing season since it will keep trying to grow back.
Step 1
Begin sowing the baby broccoli seeds two or four weeks before the last frost. Baby broccoli is a member of the crucifer family. Members of this family thrive in cooler weather conditions and may perform slow or die altogether if subjected to the hot weather of midsummer.
Step 2
Fill 4-inch peat containers with seed starter mix. Pour water into the peat containers until the starter mix is damp. Create a hole 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep in each peat container with your little finger.
Step 3
Drop one baby broccoli seed into each hole and cover with surrounding starter mix. Drape plastic wrap over all the peat containers to create a makeshift greenhouse.
Step 4
Move the baby broccoli to a flat surface and place a grow light above the peat containers. Keep the grow light turned on for 12 to 14 hours every day.
Step 5
Lift the plastic wrap and moisten the starter mix until damp two or three times weekly. Remove the covering when the baby broccoli seeds begin to grow through the starter mix.
Step 6
Transplant the baby broccoli to the garden immediately following the last frost. Keep the baby broccoli in their peat containers to avoid distressing the roots. Plant the baby broccoli 12 inches apart.
Step 7
Pinch the center bloom of the baby broccoli plants as it begins to grow. If allowed to grow, the center bloom will inhibit the edible side shoots from properly growing. Continue to pinch off the center bloom throughout the growing season since it will keep trying to grow back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Pumpkins (Cucurbita spp.) grow when there is no threat of frost for at least 90 days. An annual vine that dies after the pumpkin fruits form and ripen, gardeners in the United States plant seeds in late spring or midsummer for harvest in time for October festivities. Pumpkins need abundant sunlight and warmth to grow, flower and set fruits well. Shady garden locations are poor sites for raising pumpkin plants.
Growing Requirements
Pumpkin patches are always in an open, sunny spot.
Pumpkin vines need lots of space to sprawl their vines across the garden soil. Depending on the variety, 500 to 2,000 square feet is needed for bush-vine pie and jumbo jack o' lantern types, respectively. Plant seeds in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Full sun is a must -- at least 8 hours of direct sunrays daily. Insufficient sunlight causes vines to grow long and spindly with few leaves and flowers.
Effects of Shade
Shady growing conditions retard the growth of pumpkins on many levels. The shade delays warming of soil and air, thereby slowing vine growth. Lack of sun prevents leaves from producing enough carbohydrates, leads to delay in flowering and slows the development of pumpkin fruits. Pumpkin vines also do not do well in moist, high humidity conditions. A shady garden slows evaporation of dew and rain droplets and can increase susceptibility for stem, root and fruit rot from fungi and molds.
When to Plant Pumpkins
In the northern United States where the summers aren't too hot and the frost-free growing seasons are shorter, sow pumpkin seeds in mid to late spring after the expected last spring frost date in May. Soil temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit are best. Sow pumpkins the same time as cucumbers, sweet corn, watermelon, cantaloupe and squash. In the extreme southern U.S., sow pumpkins in early summer, anytime from mid June early July, so they grow and ripen just in time for harvest in September and October. Pumpkin vines die too early in summer in the South, which leads to pumpkin rot or deterioration in the warm temperatures if sown in April or May.
Flowering Insight
Ample sunlight encourages production of flowers in pumpkin vines. Blossoms are either male or female in gender, and both must be present for pollination by bees. The flowers open during the day and close at night or when it's not bright enough or rainy. Shady conditions can delay flowers opening and keep temperatures too cool for heavy visitation by bees. Only pollinated, female pumpkin flowers produce pumpkin fruits.
Growing Requirements
Pumpkin patches are always in an open, sunny spot.
Pumpkin vines need lots of space to sprawl their vines across the garden soil. Depending on the variety, 500 to 2,000 square feet is needed for bush-vine pie and jumbo jack o' lantern types, respectively. Plant seeds in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Full sun is a must -- at least 8 hours of direct sunrays daily. Insufficient sunlight causes vines to grow long and spindly with few leaves and flowers.
Effects of Shade
Shady growing conditions retard the growth of pumpkins on many levels. The shade delays warming of soil and air, thereby slowing vine growth. Lack of sun prevents leaves from producing enough carbohydrates, leads to delay in flowering and slows the development of pumpkin fruits. Pumpkin vines also do not do well in moist, high humidity conditions. A shady garden slows evaporation of dew and rain droplets and can increase susceptibility for stem, root and fruit rot from fungi and molds.
When to Plant Pumpkins
In the northern United States where the summers aren't too hot and the frost-free growing seasons are shorter, sow pumpkin seeds in mid to late spring after the expected last spring frost date in May. Soil temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit are best. Sow pumpkins the same time as cucumbers, sweet corn, watermelon, cantaloupe and squash. In the extreme southern U.S., sow pumpkins in early summer, anytime from mid June early July, so they grow and ripen just in time for harvest in September and October. Pumpkin vines die too early in summer in the South, which leads to pumpkin rot or deterioration in the warm temperatures if sown in April or May.
Flowering Insight
Ample sunlight encourages production of flowers in pumpkin vines. Blossoms are either male or female in gender, and both must be present for pollination by bees. The flowers open during the day and close at night or when it's not bright enough or rainy. Shady conditions can delay flowers opening and keep temperatures too cool for heavy visitation by bees. Only pollinated, female pumpkin flowers produce pumpkin fruits.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Plant a vegetable garden this spring and save money on your grocery bills. White acre peas and other southern peas grow quickly and produce high yields in warmer climates. Cow peas of all varieties produce peas in shells that you can cook immediately or dry for long-term storage. Found mainly in Florida, white acre peas have a soft texture and delicate creamy taste.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for your peas by tilling a 3-inch layer of compost into the soil. White acre peas need well-drained, loamy soil. They prefer a moderately acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. For best results have your soil tested and apply garden sulfur in amounts recommended by your soil test to correct the pH, if needed.
Step 2
Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting white acre peas. Sow seeds every 3 to 6 inches in rows that are at least 20 inches apart. Sow multiple seeds per hole to ensure germination. Sow additional rows of seed two weeks apart so that the harvest continues throughout the summer.
Step 3
Water your rows every day for the first week, and reduce to twice weekly once germination is complete. While growing, white acre peas need an inch of water every seven to 10 days. When your peas are beginning to flower, water them gently near the base of the plant.
Step 4
Thin your seedlings when they begin to sprout new leaves. Reduce the population to only one plant every six inches. Either pull the seedlings from the earth by grasping them near the roots or clip them with a pair of garden shears.
Step 5
Fertilize your peas with bone meal and wood ash, 1/2 tbsp. each per plant. White acre peas need plenty of phosphorous and potassium but self-fertilize the soil with nitrogen. Adding nitrogen from conventional plant food causes low pea pod production but bigger bushes.
Step 6
Harvest your white acre peas 75 to 90 days after planting. If you plan to eat your peas fresh, pick your peas when the pods plump but have not yet begun to dry. For long-term storage, allow the pods to dry on the vine. Shell the peas and complete the drying process spread on screens.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for your peas by tilling a 3-inch layer of compost into the soil. White acre peas need well-drained, loamy soil. They prefer a moderately acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. For best results have your soil tested and apply garden sulfur in amounts recommended by your soil test to correct the pH, if needed.
Step 2
Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting white acre peas. Sow seeds every 3 to 6 inches in rows that are at least 20 inches apart. Sow multiple seeds per hole to ensure germination. Sow additional rows of seed two weeks apart so that the harvest continues throughout the summer.
Step 3
Water your rows every day for the first week, and reduce to twice weekly once germination is complete. While growing, white acre peas need an inch of water every seven to 10 days. When your peas are beginning to flower, water them gently near the base of the plant.
Step 4
Thin your seedlings when they begin to sprout new leaves. Reduce the population to only one plant every six inches. Either pull the seedlings from the earth by grasping them near the roots or clip them with a pair of garden shears.
Step 5
Fertilize your peas with bone meal and wood ash, 1/2 tbsp. each per plant. White acre peas need plenty of phosphorous and potassium but self-fertilize the soil with nitrogen. Adding nitrogen from conventional plant food causes low pea pod production but bigger bushes.
Step 6
Harvest your white acre peas 75 to 90 days after planting. If you plan to eat your peas fresh, pick your peas when the pods plump but have not yet begun to dry. For long-term storage, allow the pods to dry on the vine. Shell the peas and complete the drying process spread on screens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Companion planting is the practice of planting certain vegetables next to one another to maximize positive effects of each plant. For example, basil is a good companion plant for tomatoes because it camouflages the tomato scent, thus protecting it from predatory insects. But just as some plants have a positive impact on each other, some plants negatively affect each other and should be planted in different parts of your garden.
Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the most popular garden vegetables, but it is not always a good companion. Cauliflower, peas, corn and broccoli are just a few vegetables that get a negative effect from its tomato plant neighbors. Many times vegetables don't grow well together because they compete for the same nutrients. In other cases, such as tomatoes and corns, both attract worms that thrive in similar habitats. Fennel and potatoes have a negative effect on tomatoes.
Strawberries
Strawberries are a popular addition to many vegetable gardens, but they are not always a positive addition. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts should not be planted with strawberries. The fruit plant uses great amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus from the soil, depleting the nutrients the other plants need. When plants compete for the same nutrients, one or the other -- sometimes both -- do not thrive.
Beans and Potatoes
Avoid planting root crops such as potatoes next to other root crops -- they compete for nutrients at the same depth. Other vegetables negatively affected by growing next to potatoes are zucchini, tomatoes, summer squash and pumpkins. Those plants require more watering, while potatoes require less watering. If over watered, plant tubers began to rot and attract bugs that are harmful to the other plants. Beans naturally adjust nitrogen levels in soil, so avoid planting near plants, such as broccoli, onions and kohlrabi that thrive when planted in soil with a higher nitrogen content.
Organic Myth or Real Science?
Though gardeners have been practicing companion planting for centuries, there's no specific scientific data proving that the method makes your garden plants thrive. Gardening expert Louise Riotte writes that companion planting is something the scientific community is beginning to take a closer look at the gardening practice. But companion planting is more than just folklore. Organic gardeners who use companion planting stand firm that mutual benefit of certain plants, such as tomato and basil, keep pests at bay and increases garden production. Companion planting also uses scientific methods by relying on plants such as beans to fix nitrogen levels in soil.
Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the most popular garden vegetables, but it is not always a good companion. Cauliflower, peas, corn and broccoli are just a few vegetables that get a negative effect from its tomato plant neighbors. Many times vegetables don't grow well together because they compete for the same nutrients. In other cases, such as tomatoes and corns, both attract worms that thrive in similar habitats. Fennel and potatoes have a negative effect on tomatoes.
Strawberries
Strawberries are a popular addition to many vegetable gardens, but they are not always a positive addition. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts should not be planted with strawberries. The fruit plant uses great amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus from the soil, depleting the nutrients the other plants need. When plants compete for the same nutrients, one or the other -- sometimes both -- do not thrive.
Beans and Potatoes
Avoid planting root crops such as potatoes next to other root crops -- they compete for nutrients at the same depth. Other vegetables negatively affected by growing next to potatoes are zucchini, tomatoes, summer squash and pumpkins. Those plants require more watering, while potatoes require less watering. If over watered, plant tubers began to rot and attract bugs that are harmful to the other plants. Beans naturally adjust nitrogen levels in soil, so avoid planting near plants, such as broccoli, onions and kohlrabi that thrive when planted in soil with a higher nitrogen content.
Organic Myth or Real Science?
Though gardeners have been practicing companion planting for centuries, there's no specific scientific data proving that the method makes your garden plants thrive. Gardening expert Louise Riotte writes that companion planting is something the scientific community is beginning to take a closer look at the gardening practice. But companion planting is more than just folklore. Organic gardeners who use companion planting stand firm that mutual benefit of certain plants, such as tomato and basil, keep pests at bay and increases garden production. Companion planting also uses scientific methods by relying on plants such as beans to fix nitrogen levels in soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Broccoli is a cool-season brassica (related to cauliflower and other cole crops) that prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It matures quickly, allowing gardeners to grow it in both spring and fall. To get a head start on spring planting, however, broccoli seeds are sown indoors, then transplanted into the garden after the last annual frost date, following a brief hardening-off period.
Step 1
Select a sunny indoor location, such as a greenhouse or a south-facing window that receives several hours of sunlight. Alternately, purchase a grow-light. Most regular indoor lights are not sufficient to grow broccoli indoors.
Step 2
Purchase or mix your own seed starting soil, or seedling soil mix. This mix should be light, well-draining, and fertile. If making your own, include compost both for fertility and to ensure the mix has a light, well-draining texture.
Step 3
Fill a seedling tray with seed starter soil. If you will be growing the broccoli indoors for a long time, and are concerned about insufficient room for the roots as the broccoli ages, sow seeds in pots instead. The optimum depth is about a quarter inch, spacing about 3 inches apart.
Step 4
Moisten the soil with a water spray bottle to prevent moving the seeds around or flushing them. Keep soil evenly moist until germination, and keep soil temperatures closer to 75 degrees for fastest germination. After germination, temperatures are more favorable closer to 60 degrees.
Step 5
Transplant to the garden or to the final growing area when broccoli has four to five true leaves, roughly four to six weeks after planting seeds. The first two leaves that broccoli produces during germination are not true leaves.
Step 6
Grow broccoli to maturity indoors only if you have a growing area that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight every day, or with grow lights timed to provide at least six hours of light per day. Each broccoli plant will need approximately three feet of growing space for a large head, less for a smaller head that is harvested twice. Ensure that broccoli has at least 6 to 12 inches of soil depth for roots to grow in, or grow broccoli hydroponically according to your hydroponic system specifications.
Step 1
Select a sunny indoor location, such as a greenhouse or a south-facing window that receives several hours of sunlight. Alternately, purchase a grow-light. Most regular indoor lights are not sufficient to grow broccoli indoors.
Step 2
Purchase or mix your own seed starting soil, or seedling soil mix. This mix should be light, well-draining, and fertile. If making your own, include compost both for fertility and to ensure the mix has a light, well-draining texture.
Step 3
Fill a seedling tray with seed starter soil. If you will be growing the broccoli indoors for a long time, and are concerned about insufficient room for the roots as the broccoli ages, sow seeds in pots instead. The optimum depth is about a quarter inch, spacing about 3 inches apart.
Step 4
Moisten the soil with a water spray bottle to prevent moving the seeds around or flushing them. Keep soil evenly moist until germination, and keep soil temperatures closer to 75 degrees for fastest germination. After germination, temperatures are more favorable closer to 60 degrees.
Step 5
Transplant to the garden or to the final growing area when broccoli has four to five true leaves, roughly four to six weeks after planting seeds. The first two leaves that broccoli produces during germination are not true leaves.
Step 6
Grow broccoli to maturity indoors only if you have a growing area that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight every day, or with grow lights timed to provide at least six hours of light per day. Each broccoli plant will need approximately three feet of growing space for a large head, less for a smaller head that is harvested twice. Ensure that broccoli has at least 6 to 12 inches of soil depth for roots to grow in, or grow broccoli hydroponically according to your hydroponic system specifications.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Onions are a popular home vegetable garden plant. Like all vegetables, they may eventually go bad if not stored properly. The proper storage method for your onions depends on where they come from, particularly whether you've purchased them from the grocery store or grown them yourself. Storing onions in the fridge is just one option.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月25日
Description: This is a herbaceous perennial plant with the leaves and flowers emerging directly from the rhizomes, and forming a basal rosette. A typical mature plant may be 6" across and 4" high, with the flowers slightly higher than the leaves. The leaves are individually up to 3" long and 3" across (excluding the long petioles), and vary in color from yellowish green to dark green, depending on growing conditions. They are oval-ovate to orbicular-cordate in shape, and crenate or serrate along the margins. Different populations of plants can vary in the hairiness of their leaves – from nearly glabrous to conspicuously hairy or pubescent. The flowers are about ¾" across, and consist of 5 rounded petals. There are 2 upper petals, 2 lateral petals with white hairs (or beards) near the throat of the flower, and a lower petal that functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. The flowers of this form of Viola sororia are medium to dark violet. The inner throat of each flower is more or less white, from which slightly darker veins radiate outward along the petals (particularly the lower one). There is no noticeable floral scent. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring, and lasts about 1-1½ months. During the summer, cleistogamous flowers without petals produce seeds, which are flung outward by mechanical ejection from the three-parted seed capsules. The root system consists of thick, horizontally branched rhizomes; there is a tendency to form vegetative colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or light shade, and moist to average conditions, although full sun is tolerated if there is sufficient moisture. The soil should be a rich silty loam or clay loam with above average amounts of organic matter. The leaves have a tendency to turn yellowish green when exposed to full sun under dry conditions – this reaction is normal, and is not necessarily a sign of poor health. This plant is very easy to grow, and it will spread under favorable conditions. This wildflower will adapt to lawns, especially if they are not mowed too often during the spring or cut too low.
Habitat & Range: The native Common Blue Violet occurs in every county in Illinois and it is very common (see Distribution Map). Natural habitats include moist to mesic black soil prairies, open woodlands, woodland edges, savannas, and wooded slopes along rivers or lakes. In developed areas, it can be found in lawns, city parks, moist waste areas, and along hedges or buildings. Sometimes the Common Blue Violet is grown in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are not often visited by insects (hence the need for cleistogamous flowers), but sometimes they attract bees (e.g., Mason, Halictid), skippers, Syrphid flies, and other insects. The Syrphid flies, however, feed only on stray pollen and are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of many Fritillary butterflies feed on the foliage, including Speyeria diane (Diana), Euptoieta claudia (Variegated Fritillary), Speyeria aphrodite (Aphrodite Fritillary), Boloria bellona (Meadow Fritillary), and Boloria selene myrina (Silver-Border Fritillary). The seeds have soft appendages that attract ants, which are in part distributed by them. Various upland gamebirds and small mammals occasionally eat the seeds, including the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, Mourning Dove, and White-Footed Mouse. Wild Turkeys also eat the leaves and fleshy roots of Viola spp. (Violets). Although it is not a preferred food source, mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage of violets, including the White-Tailed Deer, Cottontail Rabbit, and livestock.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois, Crystal Lake Park of the same city, and at the edge of an agricultural field outside of the same city in Champaign County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers and young leaves of violets are edible, and can be added to salads in small amounts. The taste is bland. This is the most common Viola sp. (Violet) in Illinois. There are several forms of Viola sororia with differently colored flowers; these often grow in close proximity to each other in a given area. The typical form that is described here, f. sororia, has medium to dark violet flowers and rather well-rounded leaves. Some authorities (e.g., Mohlenbrock) consider these different color forms to be separate species, but this does not seem appropriate to me. Some authorities also consider pubescent and non-pubescent specimens of Common Blue Violet to be separate species, but they tend to intergrade in the field, possibly in response to levels of sunlight in a given habitat. However, if this taxonomic distinction is accepted, then non-pubescent specimens can be referred to as Viola pratincola (Common Blue Violet), while pubescent specimens can be referred to as Viola sororia (Woolly Blue Violet). Because the plants in the above photographs are non-pubescent, they would be considered specimens of Viola pratincola according to this taxonomy.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or light shade, and moist to average conditions, although full sun is tolerated if there is sufficient moisture. The soil should be a rich silty loam or clay loam with above average amounts of organic matter. The leaves have a tendency to turn yellowish green when exposed to full sun under dry conditions – this reaction is normal, and is not necessarily a sign of poor health. This plant is very easy to grow, and it will spread under favorable conditions. This wildflower will adapt to lawns, especially if they are not mowed too often during the spring or cut too low.
Habitat & Range: The native Common Blue Violet occurs in every county in Illinois and it is very common (see Distribution Map). Natural habitats include moist to mesic black soil prairies, open woodlands, woodland edges, savannas, and wooded slopes along rivers or lakes. In developed areas, it can be found in lawns, city parks, moist waste areas, and along hedges or buildings. Sometimes the Common Blue Violet is grown in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are not often visited by insects (hence the need for cleistogamous flowers), but sometimes they attract bees (e.g., Mason, Halictid), skippers, Syrphid flies, and other insects. The Syrphid flies, however, feed only on stray pollen and are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of many Fritillary butterflies feed on the foliage, including Speyeria diane (Diana), Euptoieta claudia (Variegated Fritillary), Speyeria aphrodite (Aphrodite Fritillary), Boloria bellona (Meadow Fritillary), and Boloria selene myrina (Silver-Border Fritillary). The seeds have soft appendages that attract ants, which are in part distributed by them. Various upland gamebirds and small mammals occasionally eat the seeds, including the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, Mourning Dove, and White-Footed Mouse. Wild Turkeys also eat the leaves and fleshy roots of Viola spp. (Violets). Although it is not a preferred food source, mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage of violets, including the White-Tailed Deer, Cottontail Rabbit, and livestock.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois, Crystal Lake Park of the same city, and at the edge of an agricultural field outside of the same city in Champaign County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers and young leaves of violets are edible, and can be added to salads in small amounts. The taste is bland. This is the most common Viola sp. (Violet) in Illinois. There are several forms of Viola sororia with differently colored flowers; these often grow in close proximity to each other in a given area. The typical form that is described here, f. sororia, has medium to dark violet flowers and rather well-rounded leaves. Some authorities (e.g., Mohlenbrock) consider these different color forms to be separate species, but this does not seem appropriate to me. Some authorities also consider pubescent and non-pubescent specimens of Common Blue Violet to be separate species, but they tend to intergrade in the field, possibly in response to levels of sunlight in a given habitat. However, if this taxonomic distinction is accepted, then non-pubescent specimens can be referred to as Viola pratincola (Common Blue Violet), while pubescent specimens can be referred to as Viola sororia (Woolly Blue Violet). Because the plants in the above photographs are non-pubescent, they would be considered specimens of Viola pratincola according to this taxonomy.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月25日
Description: This is a herbaceous perennial plant with the leaves and flowers emerging directly from the rhizomes, and forming a basal rosette. A typical mature plant may be 6" across and 4" high, with the flowers slightly higher than the leaves. The leaves are individually up to 3" long and 3" across (excluding the long petioles), and vary in color from medium to dark green, depending on growing conditions. They are oval-ovate to orbicular-cordate, and crenate or serrate along the margins. The foliage is glabrous to slightly pubescent. The flowers are about ¾" across, and consist of 5 rounded petals; there are 2 upper petals, 2 lateral petals with white hairs (or beards) near the throat of the flower, and a lower petal that functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. Behind the petals, there are 5 sepals that are green and lanceolate. The petals of this form of Viola sororia are a mottled combination of blue-violet with white; from a distance, they appear pale to medium blue-violet. From the throat of the flower, there are dark blue-violet lines radiating outward (particularly on the lower petal). There is no noticeable floral scent. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring and lasts about 1-1½ months. During the summer, cleistogamous flowers without petals produce seeds, which are flung outward by mechanical ejection from the three-parted seed capsules. The root system consists of thick, horizontally branched rhizomes; there is a tendency to form vegetative colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or light shade, and moist to mesic conditions, although full sun is tolerated if there is sufficient moisture. The soil should be a rich silty loam or clay loam with above average amounts of organic matter. This plant is easy to grow, and it will spread under favorable conditions.
Habitat & Range: The Confederate Violet is occasional to locally common in Illinois; a Distribution Map is unavailable because the Confederate Violet is (or was) considered a mere color form of Viola sororia. Natural habitats include meadows, open woodlands, woodland borders, savannas, and wooded slopes along rivers or lakes. In more developed areas, it is sometimes found in city parks, lawns, and along hedges or buildings.
Faunal Associations: The flowers have few visitors (hence the need for cleistogamous flowers), but sometimes they attract bees and other insects. The species Andrena viola (Violet Andrenid Bee) is an oligolectic visitor of Viola spp. (Violets). The caterpillars of many Fritillary butterflies (Speyeria spp., Boloria spp., & Euptoieta claudia) feed on the foliage of Violets. Various upland gamebirds and small mammals occasionally eat the seeds, including the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, Mourning Dove, and White-Footed Mouse. Wild Turkeys also eat the leaves and fleshy roots of violets. Although it is not a preferred food source, mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographs was taken at Crystal Lake Park and Judge Webber Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The Confederate Violet is the mottled form, f. priceana, of Viola sororia. The common name of this violet refers to the resemblance of the color of its flowers to the color of Confederate uniforms during the Civil War (pale greyish blue). The typical form of this species, Viola sororia sororia (Common Blue Violet), which is more common, has flowers with a more homogenous shade of medium to dark violet. Some authorities (e.g., Mohlenbrock) classify the Confederate Violet as a distinct species, Viola priceana; in this taxonomic reclassification, it appears that no distinction has been made between the Confederate Violet and Viola sororia albiflora (White Wood Violet). I disagree with this taxonomic revision as the Confederate Violet appears to freely hybridize with both the Common Blue Violet and White Wood Violet, and they often occur together in the same habitats. This viewpoint is consistent with the taxonomic classification of the American Violet Society.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or light shade, and moist to mesic conditions, although full sun is tolerated if there is sufficient moisture. The soil should be a rich silty loam or clay loam with above average amounts of organic matter. This plant is easy to grow, and it will spread under favorable conditions.
Habitat & Range: The Confederate Violet is occasional to locally common in Illinois; a Distribution Map is unavailable because the Confederate Violet is (or was) considered a mere color form of Viola sororia. Natural habitats include meadows, open woodlands, woodland borders, savannas, and wooded slopes along rivers or lakes. In more developed areas, it is sometimes found in city parks, lawns, and along hedges or buildings.
Faunal Associations: The flowers have few visitors (hence the need for cleistogamous flowers), but sometimes they attract bees and other insects. The species Andrena viola (Violet Andrenid Bee) is an oligolectic visitor of Viola spp. (Violets). The caterpillars of many Fritillary butterflies (Speyeria spp., Boloria spp., & Euptoieta claudia) feed on the foliage of Violets. Various upland gamebirds and small mammals occasionally eat the seeds, including the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, Mourning Dove, and White-Footed Mouse. Wild Turkeys also eat the leaves and fleshy roots of violets. Although it is not a preferred food source, mammalian herbivores occasionally eat the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographs was taken at Crystal Lake Park and Judge Webber Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The Confederate Violet is the mottled form, f. priceana, of Viola sororia. The common name of this violet refers to the resemblance of the color of its flowers to the color of Confederate uniforms during the Civil War (pale greyish blue). The typical form of this species, Viola sororia sororia (Common Blue Violet), which is more common, has flowers with a more homogenous shade of medium to dark violet. Some authorities (e.g., Mohlenbrock) classify the Confederate Violet as a distinct species, Viola priceana; in this taxonomic reclassification, it appears that no distinction has been made between the Confederate Violet and Viola sororia albiflora (White Wood Violet). I disagree with this taxonomic revision as the Confederate Violet appears to freely hybridize with both the Common Blue Violet and White Wood Violet, and they often occur together in the same habitats. This viewpoint is consistent with the taxonomic classification of the American Violet Society.
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