求助
Janaali_7
2017年11月09日
Idon’t know what the name of this plant ☹️💔💔
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Ueca：Kalanchoe blossfeldiana
倬大妈的后花园儿：海棠
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
The hot climate and alkaline soils of many parts of Texas are far from ideal for blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) growing. Knowing which kinds of blueberry bushes to plant and how to compensate for unfavorable soil conditions, however, can allow you to cultivate a berry harvest even in the Lonestar State.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Grapes (Vitis spp.) are sensitive to cold, with most varieties being winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. But some grape varieties can stand up to a Michigan winter, at least in the southern part of the state. The key to successfully growing grapes in Michigan is to look for cultivars whose tolerance for cold matches the winter conditions in your part of the state.
Regional Differences
Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat.
Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula.
If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy.
Table Grapes
Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters.
"Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula.
Hybrid Wine Grapes
The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan.
White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9.
Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown.
American Grape Varieties
The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.
Regional Differences
Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat.
Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula.
If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy.
Table Grapes
Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters.
"Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula.
Hybrid Wine Grapes
The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan.
White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9.
Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown.
American Grape Varieties
The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
When eating berries found in the wild, it's important to identify them. The fruit of some plants may be edible, but the leaves and stems poisonous. Grapes are easy to spot, and no part of the plant is poisonous to humans.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
A favorite garden plant across the country, tomatoes (Solanum lycoperisum) make desirable food to more than you and your family. It's understandable because of the delicious fruit they bear, but the leaves and stems have a distinct odor and clammy feel that some people find unpleasant to smell or touch. However, many animals consume the foliage. You can tell which creature might be visiting your tomatoes by the signs animals leave, such as chew marks, droppings and footprints.
Small Rodents
Since they're nocturnal, small rodents such as mice and voles, or meadow mice, are seldom caught in the act of eating your tomatoes. Look for characteristic chew marks rodents make on fruit with the pair of large upper front teeth called incisors. Mice leave small, oblong droppings. Voles create runways in grasses that give them away. Pocket gophers eat tomato roots, causing plants to wilt and die; they construct underground burrow systems marked by mounded entrance holes.
Combating Small Rodents
You can lessen the damage to your tomato patch by mice and voles by keeping the surrounding area less attractive for them to live in. Remove brush piles, heavy vegetation, thick grasses and weeds. Since mice can climb, a simple fence won't keep them out. Protect plants by enclosing them in a wire mesh cage. Extend the cage 6 inches below ground.
Where gophers are a problem, bury galvanized 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth 2 feet deep underground on all sides of the garden bed. Extend the wire 12 inches above ground.
Chipmunks and Squirrels
These rodents are active during the day, so you can visually identify the tomato-eaters. They usually eat fruit rather than leaves. Chipmunks have chestnut coats with black and white stripes along their backs and an eyestripe. Tree squirrels descend from their tree homes to eat many kinds of vegetables, including tomatoes. Ground squirrels inhabit burrows in the ground, in rocky places or under walls, depending on the kind of squirrel. Some, such as rock squirrels, can be larger than a tree squirrel.
Chipmunk and Squirrel Damage Control
Squirrels are among the wiliest unwelcome guests in gardens, able to overcome and climb around, under and over all sorts of barriers and preventative measures. Keep squirrels and chipmunks from tomatoes by enclosing each plant with a hardware cloth cage that extends 6 inches below ground and has an attached wire lid.
Larger Rodents
Larger rodents such as rats and woodchucks also make inroads into tomatoes. Rats leave larger versions of mouse droppings and larger incisor chew marks. They also work at night and are hard to catch in the act. Roof rats live in warmer areas of the country and often invade attics and sheds. Reduce their numbers by removing brush piles and excluding them from buildings. Keep woodchucks out by fencing tomatoes with a chicken wire fence 3 feet tall with an additional 6 inches buried in the ground. Keep fence posts to 2 feet tall so the top part of the chicken wire won't support the woodchuck's weight if it tries to climb over the fence.
Excluding Rabbits
Rabbits are nocturnal, so look for their rounded droppings and incisor chew marks. Rabbits will eat fruit and plants. Rabbits can leap with their large hind legs, but they can't jump very high. Exclude rabbits from tomatoes with a fence of 1/2-inch poultry netting around the plants. Use a 4-foot-high netting and bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches beneath the soil to prevent rabbits from digging under it.
Larger Animals
Raccoons and deer may also invade your tomatoes. Raccoons are smart, powerful, animals, and they can work around, over or under most traditional fencing or barriers. They eat fruit rather than stems or leaves. Look for their distinctive tracks, with almost hand-like front paw prints. Electric fencing is a good option to keep raccoons away from tomatoes. Use a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches above the ground and 8 inches out from the base of an ordinary wire fence.
Deer eat tomato fruits and plants, leaving behind usually oblong, pellet-like droppings and deer tracks. For deer, exclusion is more difficult; they can jump 6-feet-tall fences. Protect individual plants or garden areas with poultry wire or woven wire fencing. In areas where the deer population is high, consider a deer fence around your entire garden.
Small Rodents
Since they're nocturnal, small rodents such as mice and voles, or meadow mice, are seldom caught in the act of eating your tomatoes. Look for characteristic chew marks rodents make on fruit with the pair of large upper front teeth called incisors. Mice leave small, oblong droppings. Voles create runways in grasses that give them away. Pocket gophers eat tomato roots, causing plants to wilt and die; they construct underground burrow systems marked by mounded entrance holes.
Combating Small Rodents
You can lessen the damage to your tomato patch by mice and voles by keeping the surrounding area less attractive for them to live in. Remove brush piles, heavy vegetation, thick grasses and weeds. Since mice can climb, a simple fence won't keep them out. Protect plants by enclosing them in a wire mesh cage. Extend the cage 6 inches below ground.
Where gophers are a problem, bury galvanized 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth 2 feet deep underground on all sides of the garden bed. Extend the wire 12 inches above ground.
Chipmunks and Squirrels
These rodents are active during the day, so you can visually identify the tomato-eaters. They usually eat fruit rather than leaves. Chipmunks have chestnut coats with black and white stripes along their backs and an eyestripe. Tree squirrels descend from their tree homes to eat many kinds of vegetables, including tomatoes. Ground squirrels inhabit burrows in the ground, in rocky places or under walls, depending on the kind of squirrel. Some, such as rock squirrels, can be larger than a tree squirrel.
Chipmunk and Squirrel Damage Control
Squirrels are among the wiliest unwelcome guests in gardens, able to overcome and climb around, under and over all sorts of barriers and preventative measures. Keep squirrels and chipmunks from tomatoes by enclosing each plant with a hardware cloth cage that extends 6 inches below ground and has an attached wire lid.
Larger Rodents
Larger rodents such as rats and woodchucks also make inroads into tomatoes. Rats leave larger versions of mouse droppings and larger incisor chew marks. They also work at night and are hard to catch in the act. Roof rats live in warmer areas of the country and often invade attics and sheds. Reduce their numbers by removing brush piles and excluding them from buildings. Keep woodchucks out by fencing tomatoes with a chicken wire fence 3 feet tall with an additional 6 inches buried in the ground. Keep fence posts to 2 feet tall so the top part of the chicken wire won't support the woodchuck's weight if it tries to climb over the fence.
Excluding Rabbits
Rabbits are nocturnal, so look for their rounded droppings and incisor chew marks. Rabbits will eat fruit and plants. Rabbits can leap with their large hind legs, but they can't jump very high. Exclude rabbits from tomatoes with a fence of 1/2-inch poultry netting around the plants. Use a 4-foot-high netting and bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches beneath the soil to prevent rabbits from digging under it.
Larger Animals
Raccoons and deer may also invade your tomatoes. Raccoons are smart, powerful, animals, and they can work around, over or under most traditional fencing or barriers. They eat fruit rather than stems or leaves. Look for their distinctive tracks, with almost hand-like front paw prints. Electric fencing is a good option to keep raccoons away from tomatoes. Use a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches above the ground and 8 inches out from the base of an ordinary wire fence.
Deer eat tomato fruits and plants, leaving behind usually oblong, pellet-like droppings and deer tracks. For deer, exclusion is more difficult; they can jump 6-feet-tall fences. Protect individual plants or garden areas with poultry wire or woven wire fencing. In areas where the deer population is high, consider a deer fence around your entire garden.
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求助
gibs09
2017年11月05日
can anyone identify this plant? it was sold as a bonsai?
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sunnyzou：almost like Allamanda neriifolia Hook.
成长记
Sookie
2017年11月05日
I now added "African Felt Plant, Kalanchcoe Beharensis" in my "garden"
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Sookie：Yep. I’m live in Canada so all my succulents are indoors. Honestly, he’s the one that’s doing the best so far. I haven’t had a single issue and I’ve been able to see the growth he’s made.
Jabandit：Are you growing that guy indoors? If so, how’s that working out?
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Unlike many fruit-bearing trees growing in the United States, blueberries offer the home gardener a chance to cultivate these delectable berries in small backyards as long as the proper conditions exist.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年11月05日
Sad to see so many leaves have fallen but I‘m not sure if this is something to expect in colder weather with this plant
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Kiersten_27：Is the soil wet? I think it either has too much water or not enough sun. It’s also getting cold where I live, but my jade is healthy and has kept all of its leaves
