文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月19日
Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) is a low-growing, mat-forming plant that is often seen spreading as a ground cover, in rock gardens, and even in crevices of stone walls. It blooms in the late spring to summer with clusters of fragrant, five-petal flowers that stretch almost an inch across. These flowers tend to attract butterflies and other pollinators to a garden. And after they’re done blooming, the creeping phlox foliage still remains green and attractive for much of the year before dying back in the winter. Plant your creeping phlox in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plant has a moderate growth rate.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月20日
The group of edible plants labeled hot peppers includes a small number of species and cultivars within the Capsicum genus. Most hot peppers are only slight genetic variations of the sweet bell peppers found in many gardens. Pepper plants are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family that also includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. So-called "hot peppers" are not a botanical classification, but rather a group of pepper varieties grouped together by shape and/or heat intensity.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月19日
Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), a ground-hugging perennial flower frequently used as pathway edging, is a late bloomer that brightens gardens in April or May. Best planted in early fall, it is a slow grower that will brighten gardens for many years. Its white or pink blooms are abundant and showy. Masses of blinding white flowers dot the stems. The color of the blossoms stands out nicely against the backdrop of the dark green foliage and also makes these plants good for moon gardens.
The petals form a pretty pattern that never fails to hold your attention if you are willing to take a good, close-up look. They are effective for drawing bees and butterflies to your landscaping, thereby improving pollination for other perennials. One thing the flowers do not have going for them is a nice aroma; the scent is actually unpleasant.
How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!)
Botanical Name Iberis Sempervirens
Common Name Candytuft
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 12–18 in. tall, 12-16 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained, gravelly
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, pink, lilac, red
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Mediterranean
Candytuft Care
Candytuft is considered an evergreen or semi-evergreen sub-shrub, but most gardeners treat it as they would any other perennial flower. This flowering ground cover is part of the mustard (or cabbage) family. This makes it a so-called "crucifer," even though that name usually calls to mind food crops such as broccoli.
Candytuft flowers are suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. When planting, space them about 6 inches apart in moist soil if you want a ground cover that will fill in quickly. Because candytuft flowers crave well-drained soils, they are perfect for rock gardens, where Angelina stonecrop makes for a good companion plant to grow with them. Their drought resistance also makes candytuft a good choice for xeriscaping. Their rich-green foliage and showy blooms make candytufts effective where short edging plants or ground covers are required. They are short enough that they won't block your view of the flowers growing behind them.
Light
'Purity' candytuft will tolerate some shade but bloom best when planted in the sun. For zone 8, all varieties of candytuft will benefit from a spot where the flower will have partial shade in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day, especially during the heat of summer.
Soil
Candytufts are native to southern Europe, including areas along the Mediterranean coast; they prefer the kind of gravelly soil found in their land of origin. More importantly, it is critical to provide them with excellent drainage. This perennial prefers to be grown in the ground with a soil pH that is on the alkaline side.
Water
Once established, candytuft flowers are moderately drought-tolerant, but make sure to water young plants, particularly during dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
In cold regions such as zone 5, the leaves are only semi-evergreen. Some gardeners in cold regions gently place pine boughs over the plants in late fall to shelter them from the cold, drying winds of winter and to keep them green longer.
The natural environment for candytuft tends to have drier air conditions. For that reason, it is not recommended for areas with high humidity such as the southeastern United States as the flowers tend to wilt.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing candytuft is not necessary but can help ensure abundant blooms. A slow-release fertilizer will help candytuft grow if applied in early spring. Choose a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous mix for best results.
Varieties of Candytuft
The name "candytuft" probably conjures images of tufts of candy. However, the name actually originates from the word "Candia," an early name for the island of Crete, which was the source of the first plants imported to Europe. "Tuft" may refer to either the clusters of flowers or the mounded growth habit of the plant.
The Latin genus name indicates the plant harkens from Spain and the Iberian peninsula (Iberia), while the second part of the name, sempervirens, indicates that the plant has evergreen foliage—the term is derived from the Latin words for "always" and "alive." Here are a few popular varieties of candytuft:
'Purity' has sparkling white flowers and can reach 10 inches in height, with a slightly greater spread.
'Nana' is a shorter cultivar that reaches a height of 6 inches and has lovely white blooms.
'Autumn Snow' is a well-named cultivar that will rebloom in the fall.
'Pink Ice' is a springtime favorite, bearing pink-colored blossoms with dark pink centers.
Pruning
To keep candytuft looking tidy, you can prune away the top one-third of the foliage after blooming—this will keep them from getting leggy. However, if you are planting candytuft flowers behind a retaining wall, legginess may actually be a good quality. In this case, prune them only if you think the stems are getting too woody-looking. Pruning will spawn new, fresh growth.
Propagating Candytuft
If propagating from cutting, select a green, healthy stem that is a bit long or tall. While the stem will self-root, it does take a while. Be patient if you use this method. Propagating can also be done through root division in the fall right before candytufts begin their winter dormancy. One large plant can be divided into two to three new plants and stems and roots are included in each clump.
Common Pests/Diseases
Candytufts are deer-resistant perennials and are also rabbit-proof. In fact, this plant is mainly free of pests and most disease problems, although root rot can be an issue if they are planted in boggy soil.
The petals form a pretty pattern that never fails to hold your attention if you are willing to take a good, close-up look. They are effective for drawing bees and butterflies to your landscaping, thereby improving pollination for other perennials. One thing the flowers do not have going for them is a nice aroma; the scent is actually unpleasant.
How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!)
Botanical Name Iberis Sempervirens
Common Name Candytuft
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 12–18 in. tall, 12-16 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained, gravelly
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, pink, lilac, red
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Mediterranean
Candytuft Care
Candytuft is considered an evergreen or semi-evergreen sub-shrub, but most gardeners treat it as they would any other perennial flower. This flowering ground cover is part of the mustard (or cabbage) family. This makes it a so-called "crucifer," even though that name usually calls to mind food crops such as broccoli.
Candytuft flowers are suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. When planting, space them about 6 inches apart in moist soil if you want a ground cover that will fill in quickly. Because candytuft flowers crave well-drained soils, they are perfect for rock gardens, where Angelina stonecrop makes for a good companion plant to grow with them. Their drought resistance also makes candytuft a good choice for xeriscaping. Their rich-green foliage and showy blooms make candytufts effective where short edging plants or ground covers are required. They are short enough that they won't block your view of the flowers growing behind them.
Light
'Purity' candytuft will tolerate some shade but bloom best when planted in the sun. For zone 8, all varieties of candytuft will benefit from a spot where the flower will have partial shade in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day, especially during the heat of summer.
Soil
Candytufts are native to southern Europe, including areas along the Mediterranean coast; they prefer the kind of gravelly soil found in their land of origin. More importantly, it is critical to provide them with excellent drainage. This perennial prefers to be grown in the ground with a soil pH that is on the alkaline side.
Water
Once established, candytuft flowers are moderately drought-tolerant, but make sure to water young plants, particularly during dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
In cold regions such as zone 5, the leaves are only semi-evergreen. Some gardeners in cold regions gently place pine boughs over the plants in late fall to shelter them from the cold, drying winds of winter and to keep them green longer.
The natural environment for candytuft tends to have drier air conditions. For that reason, it is not recommended for areas with high humidity such as the southeastern United States as the flowers tend to wilt.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing candytuft is not necessary but can help ensure abundant blooms. A slow-release fertilizer will help candytuft grow if applied in early spring. Choose a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous mix for best results.
Varieties of Candytuft
The name "candytuft" probably conjures images of tufts of candy. However, the name actually originates from the word "Candia," an early name for the island of Crete, which was the source of the first plants imported to Europe. "Tuft" may refer to either the clusters of flowers or the mounded growth habit of the plant.
The Latin genus name indicates the plant harkens from Spain and the Iberian peninsula (Iberia), while the second part of the name, sempervirens, indicates that the plant has evergreen foliage—the term is derived from the Latin words for "always" and "alive." Here are a few popular varieties of candytuft:
'Purity' has sparkling white flowers and can reach 10 inches in height, with a slightly greater spread.
'Nana' is a shorter cultivar that reaches a height of 6 inches and has lovely white blooms.
'Autumn Snow' is a well-named cultivar that will rebloom in the fall.
'Pink Ice' is a springtime favorite, bearing pink-colored blossoms with dark pink centers.
Pruning
To keep candytuft looking tidy, you can prune away the top one-third of the foliage after blooming—this will keep them from getting leggy. However, if you are planting candytuft flowers behind a retaining wall, legginess may actually be a good quality. In this case, prune them only if you think the stems are getting too woody-looking. Pruning will spawn new, fresh growth.
Propagating Candytuft
If propagating from cutting, select a green, healthy stem that is a bit long or tall. While the stem will self-root, it does take a while. Be patient if you use this method. Propagating can also be done through root division in the fall right before candytufts begin their winter dormancy. One large plant can be divided into two to three new plants and stems and roots are included in each clump.
Common Pests/Diseases
Candytufts are deer-resistant perennials and are also rabbit-proof. In fact, this plant is mainly free of pests and most disease problems, although root rot can be an issue if they are planted in boggy soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月18日
Bougainvillea is not your typical houseplant—in its natural state, it's a sprawling climber and shrub with formidable thorns, often found on the exterior of buildings (like climbing up a trellis or over a fence) or in gardens in subtropical-to-tropical climates. Native to South America, bougainvillea was named in honor of Louis Antoine de Bougainville, a sailor and explorer during the late 1700s. Best planted in the spring, bougainvillea is a quick grower, often adding more than 36 inches in length per year. It's known for its green foliage and vibrant pink, purple, and orange hues that most people assume are the plant's flowers—however, they're actually petal-like bracts that hide bougainvillea's true blooms, which are typically small white or yellow buds.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月20日
Calla lilies are gracefully-shaped flowers that are sought after for both special occasion bouquets and beautiful home gardens. The blooms are truly timeless, and calla lilies have a storied history, including mentions in Greek and Roman mythology, where they were tied to both Hera, the goddess of marriage and birth, and Venus, the goddess of love and beauty.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
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文章
莹723
2020年11月04日
Bottle gardens, or terrariums, are enjoying a revival, and they’re easy to create.The key is to combine small plants that thrive in similar growing conditions – usually either damp shade or drought.
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
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文章
莹723
2020年10月26日
Most gardens contain a mix of different plants, including perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees. Understanding the different types means you’ll understand how they grow, helping you to care for them correctly and ensure that it looks good all year round.
1.Annuals
Annuals complete their entire life cycle – growing from seed, flowering, making more seed, then dying – in one year (their name comes from the Latin ‘annus’, meaning ‘year’). They produce two types of bright, showy flowers in summer.
（Pink zinnias）
Hardy annuals can withstand the cold, so you can sow them outdoors in spring – March or April are the usual times but they can also be sown in September. They include cornflowers, love-in-a mist and nasturtiums.
Half-hardy annuals cannot survive the cold, so they are generally sown indoors in spring and planted out in May or June. They include cosmos and zinnias.
2.Biennials
Biennials take two years to complete their life cycle – they are sown in one year and flower and die in the next (their name comes from the Latin word, ‘biennis’, which means ‘two years’. They often flower in late spring, before annuals and perennials get going. The most common biennial in our gardens is the foxglove.
（Magenta and pink foxglove flowers）
3.Perennials
Perennials live for three years or more – their name comes the Latin, ‘perennis’, which means ‘many years’. They are sometimes referred to ‘herbaceous perennials’. They can flower for several months in summer. There are two types:
（Tall, pink-red lupins）
Hardy perennials can survive the winter and are left in the ground all year round. Don’t be alarmed when they seem to ‘disappear’ in winter – it’s a survival mechanism to get through the cold weather. Their foliage dies back but the rootstock remains dormant underground. New shoots then appear in spring. Popular perennials include lupins, delphiniums, cranesbills, hostas and peonies.
Half-hardy perennials cannot cope with the cold and so must be brought indoors in winter. It’s best to grow this type of plant in a pot, so that you can move it around easily. Alternatively, you could plant fresh plants every year. Half hardy perennials include many fuchsias and heliotrope.
4.Shrubs
Shrubs, such as roses and lavender, have a woody branches and no trunk. They lose their leaves in winter), evergreen (they keep their leaves year-round) or semi-evergreen (they keep their leaves in mild winters). Shrubs add structure and can last for many years, offering flowers, attractive foliage, colourful autumn leaves or berries. Evergreen types can be used as topiary, clipped into attractive shapes.
（Pale-apricot rose ‘Grace’）
5.Trees
Trees have a trunk and are larger than shrubs. They can be deciduous or evergreen. However small your garden, you can squeeze in a tree – it will change beautifully throughout the year and also acts as a high-rise home for wildlife.
（silver birch tree）
6.Climbers
Climbers grow upwards, and need support in the form of a trellis, arch, fence or wall. Popular climbers include clematis, honeysuckle, wisteria and jasmine. They take up very little room so are especially useful in small gardens. Use them around seating areas – over a pergola, for example – and to cover walls and fences.
（Lilac wisteria flowers）
7.Bulbs
Bulbs are underground storage organs and there are several different kinds – true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. They are planted in autumn or spring for spring or summer flowers. They include a wide range of popular garden plants including daffodils (pictured), tulips, bluebells, crocus, irises and dahlias.
（Daffodils）
8.Bedding plants
Bedding plants are planted temporarily in flower beds or borders, pots or window boxes, giving a display of flowers for a few months. Bedding plants are often half-hardy annuals or tender perennials, but can also be bulbs or shrubs. Popular bedding plants include pelargoniums (geraniums), begonias, petunias and pansies.
（Purple and yellow pansies）
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1.Annuals
Annuals complete their entire life cycle – growing from seed, flowering, making more seed, then dying – in one year (their name comes from the Latin ‘annus’, meaning ‘year’). They produce two types of bright, showy flowers in summer.
（Pink zinnias）
Hardy annuals can withstand the cold, so you can sow them outdoors in spring – March or April are the usual times but they can also be sown in September. They include cornflowers, love-in-a mist and nasturtiums.
Half-hardy annuals cannot survive the cold, so they are generally sown indoors in spring and planted out in May or June. They include cosmos and zinnias.
2.Biennials
Biennials take two years to complete their life cycle – they are sown in one year and flower and die in the next (their name comes from the Latin word, ‘biennis’, which means ‘two years’. They often flower in late spring, before annuals and perennials get going. The most common biennial in our gardens is the foxglove.
（Magenta and pink foxglove flowers）
3.Perennials
Perennials live for three years or more – their name comes the Latin, ‘perennis’, which means ‘many years’. They are sometimes referred to ‘herbaceous perennials’. They can flower for several months in summer. There are two types:
（Tall, pink-red lupins）
Hardy perennials can survive the winter and are left in the ground all year round. Don’t be alarmed when they seem to ‘disappear’ in winter – it’s a survival mechanism to get through the cold weather. Their foliage dies back but the rootstock remains dormant underground. New shoots then appear in spring. Popular perennials include lupins, delphiniums, cranesbills, hostas and peonies.
Half-hardy perennials cannot cope with the cold and so must be brought indoors in winter. It’s best to grow this type of plant in a pot, so that you can move it around easily. Alternatively, you could plant fresh plants every year. Half hardy perennials include many fuchsias and heliotrope.
4.Shrubs
Shrubs, such as roses and lavender, have a woody branches and no trunk. They lose their leaves in winter), evergreen (they keep their leaves year-round) or semi-evergreen (they keep their leaves in mild winters). Shrubs add structure and can last for many years, offering flowers, attractive foliage, colourful autumn leaves or berries. Evergreen types can be used as topiary, clipped into attractive shapes.
（Pale-apricot rose ‘Grace’）
5.Trees
Trees have a trunk and are larger than shrubs. They can be deciduous or evergreen. However small your garden, you can squeeze in a tree – it will change beautifully throughout the year and also acts as a high-rise home for wildlife.
（silver birch tree）
6.Climbers
Climbers grow upwards, and need support in the form of a trellis, arch, fence or wall. Popular climbers include clematis, honeysuckle, wisteria and jasmine. They take up very little room so are especially useful in small gardens. Use them around seating areas – over a pergola, for example – and to cover walls and fences.
（Lilac wisteria flowers）
7.Bulbs
Bulbs are underground storage organs and there are several different kinds – true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. They are planted in autumn or spring for spring or summer flowers. They include a wide range of popular garden plants including daffodils (pictured), tulips, bluebells, crocus, irises and dahlias.
（Daffodils）
8.Bedding plants
Bedding plants are planted temporarily in flower beds or borders, pots or window boxes, giving a display of flowers for a few months. Bedding plants are often half-hardy annuals or tender perennials, but can also be bulbs or shrubs. Popular bedding plants include pelargoniums (geraniums), begonias, petunias and pansies.
（Purple and yellow pansies）
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文章
莹723
2020年09月06日
1. Decide what type of garden to grow. What purpose do you want your garden to serve? Some gardens are functional and produce fruit and vegetables you can use to feed your family or give away to neighbors. Others are more ornamental in purpose, serving to beautify your property and provide a pleasing sight to people passing by. If you're not sure what type of garden you want, consider the following options:
- Vegetable gardens can include peppers, tomatoes, cabbages and lettuces, potatoes, squash, carrots, and many other vegetables. If vegetables can grow in your climate, you can find a way to grow them in your yard.
-In flower gardens, different types of flowers may be strategically planted so that something is in bloom almost all year long. Some flower gardens are structured with plantings in neat rows and patterns; others are wilder in appearance. Your personal style and yard size will determine what type of flower garden you might plant.
-Herb gardens often complement both flower and vegetable gardens, since they tend to bloom beautifully while serving the functional purpose of adding flavor to your food. Herb gardens might include rosemary, thyme, dill, cilantro and a variety of other herbs you may want to use to make dried spices and teas.
-In general, vegetable gardens require fertile soil and regular maintenance. Flowers and herbs can tolerate more neglect and poorer soil.
2. Decide what specific plants to include in your garden. Find out what grows well in your area by using this zone finder to determine what zone you are in. Then research which plants do well in your region. As you find out more about your options, make a list of the plants you want to buy and the best time of year to plant them.
- Some plants don't grow well in certain zones. If you live in a place with mild winters and hot summers, you may have trouble growing plants that require a cold snap to grow properly.
- Unless you plan to make your garden relatively large, try to choose varieties that need similar growing conditions. Do they need the same soil type and sun exposure? If not, you may have to create a garden with several types of growing conditions, which can be challenging in a small garden.
- Visit a farmers market or plant sale in the spring. Often you can learn useful information from vendors and buy healthy plants that grow well in your area.
3. Choose a spot for your garden. Take a look around your yard to decide where you want the garden to be. The location you choose should help the garden serve its purpose while producing strong, healthy plants.
- No matter what type of garden you're planting, most plants will grow better in rich, well-drained soil. Avoid spots in your yard where water seems to stand for awhile after a heavy rain, as this could indicate the soil there is too soggy or clay-based for healthy plant growth.
- Most vegetables grow best with a lot of sunlight, so if you're planting a vegetable garden, choose a spot that isn't shaded by trees, fences or buildings. Flowers are more versatile, and if you'd like a flower plot next to your house, you can choose flowers that grow best in partial or full shade.
- If your soil isn't especially fertile, you can make a raised bed or beds and grow flowers or vegetables there. Raised beds are planting beds that are built on top of the ground within wooden frames that are filled with enriched soil.
- If you don't have a yard, you can still have a garden. Plant flowers, herbs and certain vegetables in large pots on your patio. You can move them around according to the amount of sun the plants need.
4. Make a garden design. Draw an outline of your garden or yard space. Map out different options where you want to plant various items in the location you chose. Tailor the design to fit the needs of your plants, making sure the ones that need shade will be planted in a shady spot and the ones that need full sun are in an area that isn't shaded during the day.
- Take into account the space each mature plant will need. Make sure everything you want to plant will fit in your garden and have enough space to spread out while leaving you room to move around between rows or beds.
- Take timing into account. Planting dates vary with climate zones. If you live in a region with mild winters and hot summers, for example, you'll be able to plant earlier in the year than you would if you lived in a region with cold winters and shorter summers.
- If you're planting a vegetable garden, design it so that it's convenient for you to walk into the garden and harvest vegetables as they ripen. You may want to make a path through the garden for this purpose.
- Flower gardens should be designed with aesthetics in mind. Choose colors that look pretty together, and make patterns that are pleasing to the eye. As you plan keep in mind when different varieties will begin to bloom.
Take your lifestyle into account. Do you have children or pets who might run through the area? Is the garden within reach of your water hose? Is it too close to or too far from your home?
- Vegetable gardens can include peppers, tomatoes, cabbages and lettuces, potatoes, squash, carrots, and many other vegetables. If vegetables can grow in your climate, you can find a way to grow them in your yard.
-In flower gardens, different types of flowers may be strategically planted so that something is in bloom almost all year long. Some flower gardens are structured with plantings in neat rows and patterns; others are wilder in appearance. Your personal style and yard size will determine what type of flower garden you might plant.
-Herb gardens often complement both flower and vegetable gardens, since they tend to bloom beautifully while serving the functional purpose of adding flavor to your food. Herb gardens might include rosemary, thyme, dill, cilantro and a variety of other herbs you may want to use to make dried spices and teas.
-In general, vegetable gardens require fertile soil and regular maintenance. Flowers and herbs can tolerate more neglect and poorer soil.
2. Decide what specific plants to include in your garden. Find out what grows well in your area by using this zone finder to determine what zone you are in. Then research which plants do well in your region. As you find out more about your options, make a list of the plants you want to buy and the best time of year to plant them.
- Some plants don't grow well in certain zones. If you live in a place with mild winters and hot summers, you may have trouble growing plants that require a cold snap to grow properly.
- Unless you plan to make your garden relatively large, try to choose varieties that need similar growing conditions. Do they need the same soil type and sun exposure? If not, you may have to create a garden with several types of growing conditions, which can be challenging in a small garden.
- Visit a farmers market or plant sale in the spring. Often you can learn useful information from vendors and buy healthy plants that grow well in your area.
3. Choose a spot for your garden. Take a look around your yard to decide where you want the garden to be. The location you choose should help the garden serve its purpose while producing strong, healthy plants.
- No matter what type of garden you're planting, most plants will grow better in rich, well-drained soil. Avoid spots in your yard where water seems to stand for awhile after a heavy rain, as this could indicate the soil there is too soggy or clay-based for healthy plant growth.
- Most vegetables grow best with a lot of sunlight, so if you're planting a vegetable garden, choose a spot that isn't shaded by trees, fences or buildings. Flowers are more versatile, and if you'd like a flower plot next to your house, you can choose flowers that grow best in partial or full shade.
- If your soil isn't especially fertile, you can make a raised bed or beds and grow flowers or vegetables there. Raised beds are planting beds that are built on top of the ground within wooden frames that are filled with enriched soil.
- If you don't have a yard, you can still have a garden. Plant flowers, herbs and certain vegetables in large pots on your patio. You can move them around according to the amount of sun the plants need.
4. Make a garden design. Draw an outline of your garden or yard space. Map out different options where you want to plant various items in the location you chose. Tailor the design to fit the needs of your plants, making sure the ones that need shade will be planted in a shady spot and the ones that need full sun are in an area that isn't shaded during the day.
- Take into account the space each mature plant will need. Make sure everything you want to plant will fit in your garden and have enough space to spread out while leaving you room to move around between rows or beds.
- Take timing into account. Planting dates vary with climate zones. If you live in a region with mild winters and hot summers, for example, you'll be able to plant earlier in the year than you would if you lived in a region with cold winters and shorter summers.
- If you're planting a vegetable garden, design it so that it's convenient for you to walk into the garden and harvest vegetables as they ripen. You may want to make a path through the garden for this purpose.
- Flower gardens should be designed with aesthetics in mind. Choose colors that look pretty together, and make patterns that are pleasing to the eye. As you plan keep in mind when different varieties will begin to bloom.
Take your lifestyle into account. Do you have children or pets who might run through the area? Is the garden within reach of your water hose? Is it too close to or too far from your home?
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Adenium obesum, commonly called desert rose, stands out among other desert plants with its trumpet-shaped flowers and gray, elephantine trunk. It adds a splash of color and visual interest to low-water gardens where few other flowering shrubs thrive. Desert rose requires minimal upkeep and care. The plant must be grown under the right conditions and provided with care early on so it thrives.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
A plant for pond edges, bog gardens and other wet sites, horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) grows in stands of bamboo-like, dark green stems. Also called scouring rush, horsetail is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 11, and is a member of an ancient plant family that dates back 350 million years, notes the Missouri Botanical Garden. One reason for this perennial's long survival is its extremely aggressive spreading habit, but growing horsetail in containers gives you some control.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
The presence of a wide variety of insects in gardens is a normal and expected aspect of gardening. There are a wide range of control options to control pests such as ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. This includes the more environmentally friendly options such as using plants and herbs with natural insect repellent properties. Using herbs in gardens is not only a better alternative for harmful chemicals but also provides fresh culinary herbs for use in the kitchen. Insecticides made with the extracts of these herbs kill a number of pests.
Rue
Rue (Ruta graveolens) is an evergreen herb with metallic blue, feathery foliage. The herb has disinfectant and insecticidal properties for getting rid of flies, mosquitoes and a number of other insects naturally. Rubbing the herbs over pets keeps away the fleas. Planting rue with other plants keeps beetles and slugs from the garden. The semi-woody plant grows to a full height of about 2 1/2 feet. Rue foliage has a medicinal and bitter smell upon crushing or cutting. The herb blooms with small, four petaled flowers during summer. Rue is easy to grow from seed and thrives in a range of soil types including poor soil. You also can grow the herb as an indoor plant.
Wormwood
Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) is among the bitter herbs used for centuries to repel and deter insects including ticks, flies and moths. Wormwood grows to a mature height of about 3 feet and has gray-green foliage. The plant is covered with fine hair and blooms with yellow flowers during summer. Wormwood is widely used in traditional medicine both by itself or in combination with other herbs to relieve digestive and gallbladder disorders. Wormwood, also referred to as artemesia, grows naturally in the temperate and mild climates. The foliage of wormwood is used for making an herbal tea.
Mint
Mint (Mentha) is among the most recognized and most used herbs in the kitchen, which also keep away a wide range of insects with its strong scent. Mint is especially effective for deterring beetles and fleas. Keeping sachets of dried mint in closets keeps out moths and placing fresh mint in pantries helps deter ants. Rubbing the herbs over the neck, face and hands repels mosquitoes, and rubbing the herb over pets and mouths of horses and cows keeps them free from flies. Planting mint with cabbage and tomatoes gets rid of aphids, cabbage white butterflies and white flies.
Rue
Rue (Ruta graveolens) is an evergreen herb with metallic blue, feathery foliage. The herb has disinfectant and insecticidal properties for getting rid of flies, mosquitoes and a number of other insects naturally. Rubbing the herbs over pets keeps away the fleas. Planting rue with other plants keeps beetles and slugs from the garden. The semi-woody plant grows to a full height of about 2 1/2 feet. Rue foliage has a medicinal and bitter smell upon crushing or cutting. The herb blooms with small, four petaled flowers during summer. Rue is easy to grow from seed and thrives in a range of soil types including poor soil. You also can grow the herb as an indoor plant.
Wormwood
Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) is among the bitter herbs used for centuries to repel and deter insects including ticks, flies and moths. Wormwood grows to a mature height of about 3 feet and has gray-green foliage. The plant is covered with fine hair and blooms with yellow flowers during summer. Wormwood is widely used in traditional medicine both by itself or in combination with other herbs to relieve digestive and gallbladder disorders. Wormwood, also referred to as artemesia, grows naturally in the temperate and mild climates. The foliage of wormwood is used for making an herbal tea.
Mint
Mint (Mentha) is among the most recognized and most used herbs in the kitchen, which also keep away a wide range of insects with its strong scent. Mint is especially effective for deterring beetles and fleas. Keeping sachets of dried mint in closets keeps out moths and placing fresh mint in pantries helps deter ants. Rubbing the herbs over the neck, face and hands repels mosquitoes, and rubbing the herb over pets and mouths of horses and cows keeps them free from flies. Planting mint with cabbage and tomatoes gets rid of aphids, cabbage white butterflies and white flies.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
Long-lived, undemanding in care, and suitable for spreading groundcovers in woodlands and naturalistic gardens, wild geraniums are also known as cranesbills (Geranium spp.). Hundreds of species grow naturally across temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere. Deep, slender taproots or rhizome stem-roots create clumping plants with lobed leaves that are reminiscent of both maples and ferns. Wild geranium's most ornamental feature is the five-petaled flowers in spring or early summer that are white, blue, violet, lavender or any shade of pink. Do not confuse them with florist geraniums (Pelargonium spp.).
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Post-Flowering Maintenance
Once wild geraniums finishing their first blooming display in late spring or early summer, cut back the entire plants to 3 or 4 inches tall to expose the tiny crown of leaves nestled in the lower leaf stems. Do not cut back the flower stems or entire plants if you want seeds to form and scatter in a newly planted area. The seeds will scatter naturally and lead to more plants next spring. In established gardens, trimming away the old flower stems limits the volunteer, weedy seedlings that may pop up all over the place.
Trimming Tip
Clipping back of old flower stems does improve the look of wild geraniums the rest of summer and into fall before frost. Use care when trimming the stems, as you can inadvertently cut off the frilly foliage stems if you do not grasp each flower stem before cutting. In expansive sweeps of wild geraniums in a woodland setting, trimming isn't practical, unless a power weed trimmer is used. Only focus hand-trimming efforts on plants in the more formal perennial border.
Rejuvenation
In regions with long, hot summers, some gardeners will cut back old, tattered and dead leaves in early to midsummer to rejuvenate. Wild geraniums tend to cease flowering in the hottest part of summer anyways, so cutting back old leaves to the base of plants -- just above the small lower rosette of young leaves -- allows the plants to produce lush, green plants with more blossoms in late summer and early fall. In milder winter regions, the foliage of some evergreen species will then often bronze or attain purplish hues and remain attractive if not matted down and suffocated by snow.
Trimming Insight
If your patch of wild geraniums grows in an un-irrigated section of the landscape, or the soil isn't particularly moist and rich in organic matter on its own, cutting back the plants after the first flowering may not prove best. Only cut back plants if the soil will be evenly moist during the hottest part of summer. Postpone or cancel the plant trimming during years with drought, as the loss of tissues and dry soil can weaken or kill the perennial's roots. In dry years, letting flowers go to seed may ensure wild geraniums grow again next year once the drought ends.
00:49
Post-Flowering Maintenance
Once wild geraniums finishing their first blooming display in late spring or early summer, cut back the entire plants to 3 or 4 inches tall to expose the tiny crown of leaves nestled in the lower leaf stems. Do not cut back the flower stems or entire plants if you want seeds to form and scatter in a newly planted area. The seeds will scatter naturally and lead to more plants next spring. In established gardens, trimming away the old flower stems limits the volunteer, weedy seedlings that may pop up all over the place.
Trimming Tip
Clipping back of old flower stems does improve the look of wild geraniums the rest of summer and into fall before frost. Use care when trimming the stems, as you can inadvertently cut off the frilly foliage stems if you do not grasp each flower stem before cutting. In expansive sweeps of wild geraniums in a woodland setting, trimming isn't practical, unless a power weed trimmer is used. Only focus hand-trimming efforts on plants in the more formal perennial border.
Rejuvenation
In regions with long, hot summers, some gardeners will cut back old, tattered and dead leaves in early to midsummer to rejuvenate. Wild geraniums tend to cease flowering in the hottest part of summer anyways, so cutting back old leaves to the base of plants -- just above the small lower rosette of young leaves -- allows the plants to produce lush, green plants with more blossoms in late summer and early fall. In milder winter regions, the foliage of some evergreen species will then often bronze or attain purplish hues and remain attractive if not matted down and suffocated by snow.
Trimming Insight
If your patch of wild geraniums grows in an un-irrigated section of the landscape, or the soil isn't particularly moist and rich in organic matter on its own, cutting back the plants after the first flowering may not prove best. Only cut back plants if the soil will be evenly moist during the hottest part of summer. Postpone or cancel the plant trimming during years with drought, as the loss of tissues and dry soil can weaken or kill the perennial's roots. In dry years, letting flowers go to seed may ensure wild geraniums grow again next year once the drought ends.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Historically, potatoes have only been grown on farms and in vegetable gardens with lots of space. However, even those people in the smallest of urban lots can grow healthy and tasty potatoes with the garbage bag method.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
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