文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Container gardens offer the chance to grow a vegetable garden without the need for a high-maintenance garden bed. Zucchini is one of many vegetable varieties that thrives in pots. In garden beds, zucchini often is left to sprawl, but in a pot it can be staked to take up less space. Look for hybrid varieties such as Black Magic and Jackpot, that are bred specifically for pot growing.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Squash is a common sight in many gardens. Bad weather, frost and other uncontrollable circumstances can cause your butternut squash not to ripen on the vine properly. When this happens, many people just toss the unripened squash. Instead, try ripening the butternut squash in your home.
Step 1
Cut the unripened butternut squash from the vine. Leave at least 3 inches of the vine attached to the squash. Use the vine instead of the squash when handling the vegetable.
Step 2
Mix 6 parts water with 1 part household bleach, wipe the squash with the solution and allow to air dry. The water-bleach mixture will help prevent the squash from rotting.
Step 3
Place the butternut squash in a sunny location in your home. Squash must have sunlight in order to ripen. If left with no sunlight, squash will remain unripened.
Step 4
Turn the squash over periodically so that all sides of the vegetable get adequate sunlight to ripen. The green lines on unripened butternut squash will fade and the squash will have a pale or light orange color when the vegetable is ripe.
Step 1
Cut the unripened butternut squash from the vine. Leave at least 3 inches of the vine attached to the squash. Use the vine instead of the squash when handling the vegetable.
Step 2
Mix 6 parts water with 1 part household bleach, wipe the squash with the solution and allow to air dry. The water-bleach mixture will help prevent the squash from rotting.
Step 3
Place the butternut squash in a sunny location in your home. Squash must have sunlight in order to ripen. If left with no sunlight, squash will remain unripened.
Step 4
Turn the squash over periodically so that all sides of the vegetable get adequate sunlight to ripen. The green lines on unripened butternut squash will fade and the squash will have a pale or light orange color when the vegetable is ripe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
With container gardens, you can have fresh vegetables all year even when garden space is not available. Zucchini is a summer squash that grows best in full sun and warm conditions. As container culture gains popularity, many new dwarf or small growing varieties of vegetables are being developed; compact zucchini varieties are no exception, and include the culitvars Black Magic, Hybrid Jackpot, Gold Rush and Classic. Grow zucchini indoors all year round. In winter, place the pots in a south facing window where they will get the most sun.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
A summer squash, the zucchini grows well in most summer vegetable gardens. You only need one zucchini plant to produce fruit, as the plants grow separate male and female flowers on the same plant, which are usually pollinated by bees and other insects. You can also pollinate the flowers by hand if you are growing them in a greenhouse or other area where insect pollination isn't possible. Telling the difference between the male and female blooms ensures you pollinate the zucchini correctly for the maximum amount of fruit at harvest time.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Zucchini and other summer squash can be grown in vegetable gardens throughout the United States, providing a good crop each year. Although the squash are considered easy to grow, the plants can suffer damage when not cared for properly. Yellow leaves are a sign of a potential problem in many plants, zucchini included. In some cases, overwatering may cause the problem. However, that is only one potential cause.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月17日
Watermelon on the Fourth of July is about as American as apple pie, but the fruit actually originated in Africa, the University of Arkansas Extension reports. Today, the melons -- a warm-season crop -- grow commercially and in backyard gardens in many parts of the United States. The warm summers in zone 6 -- which includes much of Kentucky and Tennessee as well as portions of Kansas, Arkansas, Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania and West Virginia -- are suitable for growing watermelons.
Step 1
Create soil hills in your garden space by piling soil in mounds. If you intend to plant several watermelons, set the hills 6 feet apart, the University of Arkansas Extension advises. Plant rows of watermelons 7 feet to 10 feet apart.
Step 2
Plant several watermelon seeds 1/2 inch deep in the hills, covering them carefully with soil. Watermelons should be planted when the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. In zone 6, this generally occurs in the middle of May.
Step 3
Water the plants carefully at planting time so that they can begin to establish their roots. Continue watering as necessary during the growing season so the soil does not dry out. In general, watering is only required during extended dry periods because the plants have a deep root system that can meet their moisture needs.
Step 4
Remove the smallest young plants after they sprout through the soil, leaving only two to three seedlings in each hill. It's always best to keep the largest, most healthy-looking plants and thin out the small or weak plants.
Step 5
Weed the garden space regularly, either by hand or with a hoe. Weeding is especially important early in the season, when the plants are setting their roots.
Step 6
Monitor the plants for signs the melons are ripe starting about 80 days after you planted them. Gardeners often have difficulty determining when to harvest watermelons, but there are several signs to watch for. First, a ripe watermelon will have a dull green color. The tendrils will turn from green to brown and the spot where the melon sits on the ground will turn from green to yellow.
Step 1
Create soil hills in your garden space by piling soil in mounds. If you intend to plant several watermelons, set the hills 6 feet apart, the University of Arkansas Extension advises. Plant rows of watermelons 7 feet to 10 feet apart.
Step 2
Plant several watermelon seeds 1/2 inch deep in the hills, covering them carefully with soil. Watermelons should be planted when the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. In zone 6, this generally occurs in the middle of May.
Step 3
Water the plants carefully at planting time so that they can begin to establish their roots. Continue watering as necessary during the growing season so the soil does not dry out. In general, watering is only required during extended dry periods because the plants have a deep root system that can meet their moisture needs.
Step 4
Remove the smallest young plants after they sprout through the soil, leaving only two to three seedlings in each hill. It's always best to keep the largest, most healthy-looking plants and thin out the small or weak plants.
Step 5
Weed the garden space regularly, either by hand or with a hoe. Weeding is especially important early in the season, when the plants are setting their roots.
Step 6
Monitor the plants for signs the melons are ripe starting about 80 days after you planted them. Gardeners often have difficulty determining when to harvest watermelons, but there are several signs to watch for. First, a ripe watermelon will have a dull green color. The tendrils will turn from green to brown and the spot where the melon sits on the ground will turn from green to yellow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Fruit and vegetable gardens burst into bloom in spring and summer for eventual fruit harvest, but rarely consist of one specific plant variety. Gardeners plant a range of their favorite fruits and vegetables for wide, satisfying harvests. Warm-season plants like tomatoes and melons thrive together with the same temperature, sun, nutrition and water needs, but they require generous spacing for growth. Plant these crops at the same time, and with the same considerations.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Jicama has a crisp, sweet flavor reminiscent of apples. The white flesh of the root is edible, both raw and cooked, and is often used in salads or cooked in the same manner as potatoes. This Mexican vegetable is sometimes grown in home gardens and is also available from most well-stocked grocery stores. Selecting ripe jicamas, whether you grow them yourself or purchase them, ensures the best flavor and texture.
Step 1
Examine the exterior of the jicama. Select those with an approximate 6-inch diameter and a smooth, cream or light brown exterior. Avoid wrinkled jicama roots as these are overly-mature.
Step 2
Check all sides of the jicama for cracks. Avoid those with cracks or visible bruises.
Step 3
Cut into the jicama. Under-ripe jicamas are hard and difficult to cut while a knife easily slices through a ripe jicama.
Step 4
Harvest garden-grown jicama after the foliage begins to die back but before the first fall frost. Dying foliage indicates root maturity.
Step 1
Examine the exterior of the jicama. Select those with an approximate 6-inch diameter and a smooth, cream or light brown exterior. Avoid wrinkled jicama roots as these are overly-mature.
Step 2
Check all sides of the jicama for cracks. Avoid those with cracks or visible bruises.
Step 3
Cut into the jicama. Under-ripe jicamas are hard and difficult to cut while a knife easily slices through a ripe jicama.
Step 4
Harvest garden-grown jicama after the foliage begins to die back but before the first fall frost. Dying foliage indicates root maturity.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月03日
While commercial mushroom farms raise and package large quantities of mushrooms for consumers, packaged mushroom gardens give individual gardeners the opportunity to raise a small, indoor mushroom crop. These mushroom-growing kits include everything you need to start your own small mushroom garden. Although you can purchase one of these ready-made kits from Internet suppliers and gardening centers, you can also put together the necessary ingredients to make your own mushroom-growing kit. Use this for your own gardening hobby or present this homemade kit as a gift for a friend.
Putting Together Your Kit
Step 1
Obtain a broad, shallow container or recycle a used one for this purpose. A large casserole dish or a plastic storage bin works well for building a mushroom garden.
Step 2
Mix equal amounts of sterile compost, potting soil and peat, filling your container with a 2-to-3-inch layer of this rich medium. Reserve about 1/4 cup of this mixture in a sealed envelope. Smooth the top of your soil mix with a large, wooden spoon, removing any ridges or dips, creating a uniform surface.
Step 3
Gather mushroom spores for your garden kit. Known as spore printing, collecting spores allows you to propagate new mushrooms from harvested species. Purchase only fresh mushrooms from your grocery store to use for this purpose. Cut off the stems and place your mushroom caps, gills down, on a piece of clean, white paper. Wait 12 hours for the mushrooms to release the majority of the miniscule spores. Carefully transfer the spores to a sealable envelope for storage. Keep these cool and dry.
Step 4
Tear off a sheet or two of clear plastic wrap to place over the top of your container. Poke several holes in the plastic wrap to allow adequate airflow. Complete your mushroom garden kit with a plastic spray bottle for misting the soil. Your kit is now ready for planting or giving away as a gift. Include growing instructions with a gift.
Planting and Growing Your Mushrooms
Step 1
Plant your mushroom garden by misting the surface of your soil with a fine spray of water until it glistens. Scatter your tiny spores over the surface of the damp soil. Sprinkle the reserved 1/4 cup of medium over the top of your spores, barely covering them with this fine substance. Spray the surface again to create even dampness and place your plastic wrap over the top of your container.
Step 2
Put your planted mushroom garden in a dimly lit area, such as a closet or storage cabinet. Maintain the temperature in your closet near 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil slightly damp to the touch by spraying it every few days.
Step 3
Look for the small mushrooms to appear within one to two weeks. Begin harvesting them as they reach maturity to allow space for new ones to grow. Mushroom gardens often continue supplying fresh produce for six to eight weeks.
Putting Together Your Kit
Step 1
Obtain a broad, shallow container or recycle a used one for this purpose. A large casserole dish or a plastic storage bin works well for building a mushroom garden.
Step 2
Mix equal amounts of sterile compost, potting soil and peat, filling your container with a 2-to-3-inch layer of this rich medium. Reserve about 1/4 cup of this mixture in a sealed envelope. Smooth the top of your soil mix with a large, wooden spoon, removing any ridges or dips, creating a uniform surface.
Step 3
Gather mushroom spores for your garden kit. Known as spore printing, collecting spores allows you to propagate new mushrooms from harvested species. Purchase only fresh mushrooms from your grocery store to use for this purpose. Cut off the stems and place your mushroom caps, gills down, on a piece of clean, white paper. Wait 12 hours for the mushrooms to release the majority of the miniscule spores. Carefully transfer the spores to a sealable envelope for storage. Keep these cool and dry.
Step 4
Tear off a sheet or two of clear plastic wrap to place over the top of your container. Poke several holes in the plastic wrap to allow adequate airflow. Complete your mushroom garden kit with a plastic spray bottle for misting the soil. Your kit is now ready for planting or giving away as a gift. Include growing instructions with a gift.
Planting and Growing Your Mushrooms
Step 1
Plant your mushroom garden by misting the surface of your soil with a fine spray of water until it glistens. Scatter your tiny spores over the surface of the damp soil. Sprinkle the reserved 1/4 cup of medium over the top of your spores, barely covering them with this fine substance. Spray the surface again to create even dampness and place your plastic wrap over the top of your container.
Step 2
Put your planted mushroom garden in a dimly lit area, such as a closet or storage cabinet. Maintain the temperature in your closet near 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil slightly damp to the touch by spraying it every few days.
Step 3
Look for the small mushrooms to appear within one to two weeks. Begin harvesting them as they reach maturity to allow space for new ones to grow. Mushroom gardens often continue supplying fresh produce for six to eight weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Fresh sweet corn is among the most celebrated summertime crop from the home garden, but it is not the only natural variety of Zea mays grown in gardens or farmers' fields in the United States. Other corn types include grain field corn, ornamental/Indian corn and popcorn. Regardless of corn type, all are tropical annual grasses that need a fertile soil that is warm. Lots of sunshine and ambient heat and humidity allows the corn plants to bloom and develop rows of kernels on each cob.
Light Requirements
Always choose a garden location that basks in full, all-day sunlight when growing corn. A full sun location receives direct sun rays for no less than 10 hours daily. Corn plants may still grow, albeit a little shorter and slower, in partial sun, but less than eight hours of sun is not conducive for plants to bloom and form cobs. The heat from sunlight warms the soil in spring adequately to allow seeds to germinate. Sunlight also promotes the best growth and photosynthesis in the limited number of leaves on each corn stalk.
Spacing
Because of corn's need for lots of sunlight, proper spacing of plants and rows ensures growing plants do not shade each other to detriment. The mature height of a corn depends on its variety, which genetically disposes them to reach a maximum height anywhere from 4 to 12 feet. All corn plants are rather narrow, never getting much wider than 20 to 30 inches; leaves tend to grow and orient in one plane on each stalk. Sow seeds 8 to 18 inches apart in linear furrow rows or hills. Space additional rows 30 to 36 inches apart.
Garden Organization
Besides needing to locate a corn patch in a fertile soil in full sun and spacing plants so they don't shade each other, you must also worry about pollination. Corn stalks bear female flowers in silks on the ear while the male pollen flowers occur high up on the stalk's tassel. Corn plants are wind pollinated. Without pollination of the ear silks, corn kernels will not form. Plant corn in multiple rows in a block or grouped format rather than in one singular long row. This ensures wind blows pollen among plants.
Corn Maturation
Lots of sunlight allows the corn plant's narrow and few leaves to make carbohydrates to fuel creation of the kernels on the corn cob. Sweet corn kernels are plump, juicy and immature – the tastiest time to eat them. Conversely, grain field, popcorn and Indian corn must fully mature and then dry on the cob to be ready for harvest and long-term storage. While sweet corn may be harvestable merely 70 days after planting. Corn types that must fully mature and dry kernels and cobs may need a sunny garden plot free from frost for upward of 120 to 150 days after planting.
Light Requirements
Always choose a garden location that basks in full, all-day sunlight when growing corn. A full sun location receives direct sun rays for no less than 10 hours daily. Corn plants may still grow, albeit a little shorter and slower, in partial sun, but less than eight hours of sun is not conducive for plants to bloom and form cobs. The heat from sunlight warms the soil in spring adequately to allow seeds to germinate. Sunlight also promotes the best growth and photosynthesis in the limited number of leaves on each corn stalk.
Spacing
Because of corn's need for lots of sunlight, proper spacing of plants and rows ensures growing plants do not shade each other to detriment. The mature height of a corn depends on its variety, which genetically disposes them to reach a maximum height anywhere from 4 to 12 feet. All corn plants are rather narrow, never getting much wider than 20 to 30 inches; leaves tend to grow and orient in one plane on each stalk. Sow seeds 8 to 18 inches apart in linear furrow rows or hills. Space additional rows 30 to 36 inches apart.
Garden Organization
Besides needing to locate a corn patch in a fertile soil in full sun and spacing plants so they don't shade each other, you must also worry about pollination. Corn stalks bear female flowers in silks on the ear while the male pollen flowers occur high up on the stalk's tassel. Corn plants are wind pollinated. Without pollination of the ear silks, corn kernels will not form. Plant corn in multiple rows in a block or grouped format rather than in one singular long row. This ensures wind blows pollen among plants.
Corn Maturation
Lots of sunlight allows the corn plant's narrow and few leaves to make carbohydrates to fuel creation of the kernels on the corn cob. Sweet corn kernels are plump, juicy and immature – the tastiest time to eat them. Conversely, grain field, popcorn and Indian corn must fully mature and then dry on the cob to be ready for harvest and long-term storage. While sweet corn may be harvestable merely 70 days after planting. Corn types that must fully mature and dry kernels and cobs may need a sunny garden plot free from frost for upward of 120 to 150 days after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Rats are a common pest outside homes and in gardens. They eat almost any food, including tomato fruit right off the plants. You can recognize the damage from rats by their tracks and droppings around the plants. To eliminate a rat infestation in your tomato garden, set up traps and lay down repellents that will keep the rats away.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable grown in home gardens, according to the University of Tennessee. This claim is certainly open to debate, but the importance of tomatoes as a home crop is hard to dismiss. If you plan to add tomatoes to your Tennessee garden this year, planting at the right time is essential.
Size
If you grow tomatoes from seed, you can plant them in containers indoors in late winter, but many gardeners choose to buy seedlings from a nursery instead. In either case, tomato plants are usually ready to be transplanted to the garden when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Time Frame
The date on the calendar is not as important as the weather conditions. Tomatoes are highly sensitive to frost, so be sure to wait until the last freeze of the season is behind you before you plant them outdoors. Late April is usually safe to plant tomatoes in Tennessee, but you can wait well into June.
Considerations
For best results, do not plant tomatoes in the same section of your garden two years in a row. Rotating crops so that they are planted in the same location only once every three or four years will help prevent disease and nutrient depletion.
Size
If you grow tomatoes from seed, you can plant them in containers indoors in late winter, but many gardeners choose to buy seedlings from a nursery instead. In either case, tomato plants are usually ready to be transplanted to the garden when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Time Frame
The date on the calendar is not as important as the weather conditions. Tomatoes are highly sensitive to frost, so be sure to wait until the last freeze of the season is behind you before you plant them outdoors. Late April is usually safe to plant tomatoes in Tennessee, but you can wait well into June.
Considerations
For best results, do not plant tomatoes in the same section of your garden two years in a row. Rotating crops so that they are planted in the same location only once every three or four years will help prevent disease and nutrient depletion.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
The hardy and versatile Concord grape is one of the most popular grapes to grow in US gardens. You can eat them fresh off the vine, or make jams, jellies or wine with them, and they are commercially used to make grape juice. They better tolerate the colder weather of the northern states and are more disease resistant than some other varieties.
Step 1
Mulch your vines generously each spring and keep them free of weeds.
Step 2
Water grape vines infrequently, but heavily, as they have deep root systems. Don't water when the soil is moist, but when it begins to dry out.
Step 3
Cut the vines back in the first year to two or three strong buds, each of which will grow into a cane. Several shoots and an abundance of leaves will grow, which will encourage the vine to develop a strong root system. In the second year, remove all but two of the strongest canes from each vine, and allow three to four shoots to grow from each.
Step 4
Tie the canes to a four- or five-foot tall stake in the first year. You'll need to build a trellis to support them in the following year, as grape vines don't stand up well on their own and are prone to disease when they grow on the ground. The simplest trellis, according to the University of Minnesota (see references), is the Kniffen system: Set posts in the ground on either side of the vine, between 16 and 24 feet apart. Stretch two wires horizontally between these posts. The first should be 36 inches above the ground, and the second 60 inches. Support the vine by keeping it tied to the stake, and then to the wires as it grows.
Step 5
Remove flowers when they form for the first two years--the vines are not strong enough to bear fruit. You can also thin the vines by removing some of the flower clusters in the following years.
Step 6
Prune during the dormant season, beginning in the third year. Pruning prevents the vine from becoming too dense, and also allows you to control the quantity of grapes. When too many grapes develop, they will be small and may not ripen. When branches reach the wires of the trellis, either remove them or cut them back to two buds.
Step 7
Concord grapes are ready for harvest some time between Labor Day and the first frost. When you think they are ready, taste them. If they are sweet and flavorful, and no longer tart or sour, the grapes are ready to pick.
Step 1
Mulch your vines generously each spring and keep them free of weeds.
Step 2
Water grape vines infrequently, but heavily, as they have deep root systems. Don't water when the soil is moist, but when it begins to dry out.
Step 3
Cut the vines back in the first year to two or three strong buds, each of which will grow into a cane. Several shoots and an abundance of leaves will grow, which will encourage the vine to develop a strong root system. In the second year, remove all but two of the strongest canes from each vine, and allow three to four shoots to grow from each.
Step 4
Tie the canes to a four- or five-foot tall stake in the first year. You'll need to build a trellis to support them in the following year, as grape vines don't stand up well on their own and are prone to disease when they grow on the ground. The simplest trellis, according to the University of Minnesota (see references), is the Kniffen system: Set posts in the ground on either side of the vine, between 16 and 24 feet apart. Stretch two wires horizontally between these posts. The first should be 36 inches above the ground, and the second 60 inches. Support the vine by keeping it tied to the stake, and then to the wires as it grows.
Step 5
Remove flowers when they form for the first two years--the vines are not strong enough to bear fruit. You can also thin the vines by removing some of the flower clusters in the following years.
Step 6
Prune during the dormant season, beginning in the third year. Pruning prevents the vine from becoming too dense, and also allows you to control the quantity of grapes. When too many grapes develop, they will be small and may not ripen. When branches reach the wires of the trellis, either remove them or cut them back to two buds.
Step 7
Concord grapes are ready for harvest some time between Labor Day and the first frost. When you think they are ready, taste them. If they are sweet and flavorful, and no longer tart or sour, the grapes are ready to pick.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes are the most commonly grown vegetable in home gardens in America, according to the University of Illinois. Because tomatoes are naturally acidic, vinegar can be used as a natural fungicide as well as a fertilizer on these tasty and nutritious plants.
Function
Vinegar is a natural substance that has a wide variety of uses. It is acidic, but not toxic, which means it is safe to consume. For that reason, it can be used on edible as well as non-edible plants without harming them, as long as it is used in moderation and diluted with water.
Fungicide
Tomatoes are prone to fungal diseases, especially during periods of wet spring weather. A combination of apple cider vinegar and water can prevent and treat leaf spots fungi, mildews and scab diseases. Combine 3 tbsp. of cider vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Put the solution into a spray bottle and spray your tomato plants every morning.
Fertilizer
Fertilize your tomatoes with a mixture of water, ammonia and vinegar. Combine 1 cup ammonia with 2 cups of white distilled vinegar, then add it to 5 gallons of water. Use a watering can to sprinkle this mixture over your tomato plants and the surrounding soil. Do this about once every two weeks in the spring. This will encourage fruiting.
Function
Vinegar is a natural substance that has a wide variety of uses. It is acidic, but not toxic, which means it is safe to consume. For that reason, it can be used on edible as well as non-edible plants without harming them, as long as it is used in moderation and diluted with water.
Fungicide
Tomatoes are prone to fungal diseases, especially during periods of wet spring weather. A combination of apple cider vinegar and water can prevent and treat leaf spots fungi, mildews and scab diseases. Combine 3 tbsp. of cider vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Put the solution into a spray bottle and spray your tomato plants every morning.
Fertilizer
Fertilize your tomatoes with a mixture of water, ammonia and vinegar. Combine 1 cup ammonia with 2 cups of white distilled vinegar, then add it to 5 gallons of water. Use a watering can to sprinkle this mixture over your tomato plants and the surrounding soil. Do this about once every two weeks in the spring. This will encourage fruiting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are grown as annuals in most American vegetable gardens for eating and cooking. While they are relatively hardy and easy to grow, they are susceptible to four varieties of blight. A number of treatments can destroy and prevent blight. Prior to treatment, fruit showing signs of blight infection should not be eaten or used for canning.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
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