文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of cutworms from the night-flying moth family Noctuidae are found in home gardens across the United States. The larvae commonly feed on plant stems at or below ground, eventually cutting them down. Cutworms attack a wide variety of plants including beets, cabbage, broccoli, kale and cauliflower.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants.
Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop.
Life Cycle
Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths.
Damage
Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night.
Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit.
Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control
Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root.
Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures
Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae.
Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae.
Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants.
A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them.
Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner.
Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two.
Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations
The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf.
Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering.
Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter.
Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs.
Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over.
Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common in vegetable gardens throughout North America, the corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) is one of the most destructive insect pests attacking corn. It’s also known to bore into other fruiting vegetables and feed on lettuce. One worm can do extensive damage, and often a single larvae is all that’s found on a fouled ear. The corn earworm is also a serious pest of cotton where it is known as the cotton bollworm. On tomatoes it is known as the tomato fruitworm.
Full grown larvae (1-1/2 inch long) are lightly striped and vary in color from a light green or pink to brown. They darken as they grow older. Adults are night-flying, dull greenish gray or brown moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with irregular darker lines and spots near the outer margins of the fore and hind wings. During the day they hide in nearby vegetation, but may occasionally be seen feeding on nectar.
Note: Adult moths are good flyers, and able to move long distances. Each year they migrate from warm southern areas back to northern states where they are subject to winterkill.
Life Cycle
In areas where this insect survives the winter, pupae hibernate in the soil. Adult moths emerge anywhere from February through June, depending upon temperatures, and deposit their eggs singly on corn silks and other plant parts. Each female can lay up to 3,000 eggs, which hatch in two to ten days. When larvae emerge, they burrow directly down through the silks into the ear tip, becoming fully grown in 3-4 weeks. Corn earworm are extremely cannibalistic, which tends to limit the number of larvae to one per ear. When full grown, they drop to the ground to enter the soil for pupation. Usually two generations develop in the north, with as many as six in the extreme south.
Damage
Damage usually begins in the corn’s silk, where the moth deposits its eggs. The caterpillars follow the silk down to the ear, eating as they go. Extensive damage is often found at the ear’s tips, where the worms devour kernels and foul them with excrement. The larvae often destroy the silks before pollination is complete. The resulting ears are deformed and susceptible to mold and disease.
Worm damage is often confined to the tip of corn ears and can easily be cut away. Worms frequently follow leaves down the ear, leaving excrement and settling into kernels well in from the tip. It doesn’t take much of this kind of damage to make the entire ear undesirable.
Each year, copious amounts of pesticides are sprayed on commercial corn fields in attempts to kill larvae. Runoff from these sprayings contribute to watershed and water table contamination while the spray itself decimates beneficial insects. Genetically engineered corn, each kernel producing its own pesticide, was developed with corn earworms in mind.
Corn Earworm Control
An Integrated Pest Management plan that deals with the earworm at all three stages is the best way for corn growers to combat them. As moths, corn earworms are great travelers. Continued vigilance is needed. Just because you had them well-managed the previous season doesn’t mean they won’t glide back in on the first warm breeze come springtime.
Seasonal maintenance:
Don’t mulch ahead of winter without first getting as many pupae as you might have out of the soil.
Till your soil fall and spring to expose the pupae to wind, weather, birds and other predators.
Got chickens? Turn them loose after harvest to pick the grubs from your soil. Watching them work can be very entertaining!
If you suspect your former corn patch might harbor corn earworm pupae, try broadcasting beneficial nematodes into moist soil well ahead of first frost. Word of mouth suggests this is a helpful component of any earworm IPM program.
Spring moth arrival:
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Moths mostly fly under cover of night and go unspotted.
At first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Growing season:
Inspect silk for larvae, eggs regularly.
Employ beneficial insects, such as green lacewings, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. All will feed on corn earworm eggs and small larvae.
Spray or inject silks weekly with Beneficial Nematodes to control larvae.
If corn earworms persist, apply Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) to silks at 5-10% formation and continue weekly until tassels turn brown. Both products are listed in the Organic Materials Review Institute’s products certified for use in the USDA’s National Organic Program.
Tip: When using mineral or vegetable oils to suffocate feeding larvae at the ear’s tips, include a botanical insecticide in the oil as an added punch.
Full grown larvae (1-1/2 inch long) are lightly striped and vary in color from a light green or pink to brown. They darken as they grow older. Adults are night-flying, dull greenish gray or brown moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with irregular darker lines and spots near the outer margins of the fore and hind wings. During the day they hide in nearby vegetation, but may occasionally be seen feeding on nectar.
Note: Adult moths are good flyers, and able to move long distances. Each year they migrate from warm southern areas back to northern states where they are subject to winterkill.
Life Cycle
In areas where this insect survives the winter, pupae hibernate in the soil. Adult moths emerge anywhere from February through June, depending upon temperatures, and deposit their eggs singly on corn silks and other plant parts. Each female can lay up to 3,000 eggs, which hatch in two to ten days. When larvae emerge, they burrow directly down through the silks into the ear tip, becoming fully grown in 3-4 weeks. Corn earworm are extremely cannibalistic, which tends to limit the number of larvae to one per ear. When full grown, they drop to the ground to enter the soil for pupation. Usually two generations develop in the north, with as many as six in the extreme south.
Damage
Damage usually begins in the corn’s silk, where the moth deposits its eggs. The caterpillars follow the silk down to the ear, eating as they go. Extensive damage is often found at the ear’s tips, where the worms devour kernels and foul them with excrement. The larvae often destroy the silks before pollination is complete. The resulting ears are deformed and susceptible to mold and disease.
Worm damage is often confined to the tip of corn ears and can easily be cut away. Worms frequently follow leaves down the ear, leaving excrement and settling into kernels well in from the tip. It doesn’t take much of this kind of damage to make the entire ear undesirable.
Each year, copious amounts of pesticides are sprayed on commercial corn fields in attempts to kill larvae. Runoff from these sprayings contribute to watershed and water table contamination while the spray itself decimates beneficial insects. Genetically engineered corn, each kernel producing its own pesticide, was developed with corn earworms in mind.
Corn Earworm Control
An Integrated Pest Management plan that deals with the earworm at all three stages is the best way for corn growers to combat them. As moths, corn earworms are great travelers. Continued vigilance is needed. Just because you had them well-managed the previous season doesn’t mean they won’t glide back in on the first warm breeze come springtime.
Seasonal maintenance:
Don’t mulch ahead of winter without first getting as many pupae as you might have out of the soil.
Till your soil fall and spring to expose the pupae to wind, weather, birds and other predators.
Got chickens? Turn them loose after harvest to pick the grubs from your soil. Watching them work can be very entertaining!
If you suspect your former corn patch might harbor corn earworm pupae, try broadcasting beneficial nematodes into moist soil well ahead of first frost. Word of mouth suggests this is a helpful component of any earworm IPM program.
Spring moth arrival:
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Moths mostly fly under cover of night and go unspotted.
At first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Growing season:
Inspect silk for larvae, eggs regularly.
Employ beneficial insects, such as green lacewings, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. All will feed on corn earworm eggs and small larvae.
Spray or inject silks weekly with Beneficial Nematodes to control larvae.
If corn earworms persist, apply Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) to silks at 5-10% formation and continue weekly until tassels turn brown. Both products are listed in the Organic Materials Review Institute’s products certified for use in the USDA’s National Organic Program.
Tip: When using mineral or vegetable oils to suffocate feeding larvae at the ear’s tips, include a botanical insecticide in the oil as an added punch.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Now common throughout the United States, the imported cabbage worm (Pieris rapae) does great damage to brassica and other cabbage-family crops in fields and gardens where it gains a foothold. Although the larvae of this garden pest moves sluggishly, it is extremely destructive, especially later in the growing season when populations can build significantly.
The imported cabbageworm (1-1/4 inch long) is velvety green in color and has many short fine hairs and faint yellow strips down its side and back. It’s five sets of pro-legs are easily visible. Adults are white or pale yellow butterflies (1-2 inch wingspan) with three or four black spots on their wings. They are frequently noticed fluttering about the garden from early spring to late fall.
Life Cycle
Adult females emerge in early spring after over wintering as green pupae. They lay up to 200 tiny yellow eggs on host plants, usually on the undersides of leaves. These hatch in 7 or more days (depending on temperature) into young larvae caterpillars. The larvae feed heavily for 15 or more days, then pupate on lower leaf surfaces or nearby garden objects. During late spring and summer, the worm pupates for 10 days before a new generation of butterflies emerges. There are 3 to 5 overlapping generations each year, as many as 8 in warmer areas.
Damage
In the larval stage, cabbage worms will feed on the surface layer of leaves, leaving behind a a translucent, tissue-like scars. As they grow, they chew large, irregular holes usually beginning on the outside leaves of cabbage and other cole and mustard crops (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, turnip, radish). As the worm feeds, it commonly bores into the center of cabbage heads contaminating them with its fecal pellets. The dark-green pellets can also be found in the crook of leaves near the stem.
Cabbageworm Control
The imported cabbage worm is one of many worms that attack garden plants. Luckily, control tactics aimed at a particular worm, be they loopers, army worms, cut worms or diamond back moths, are usually effective against all.
Early Season
This insect has many natural enemies, including predatory beetles, spiders, yellow jackets, green lacewing and parasitic wasps. Birds also favor cabbage worms. Make sure your garden welcomes these creatures. And don’t use chemical sprays that might harm or destroy these natural predators.
Protect plants with floating row covers to prevent adults from laying eggs.
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths.
Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Predator wasps of various sorts, most indigenous to your garden, will seek-out the eggs of all types of worms. Help protect them by using something other than indiscriminate chemical pesticides.
Herbalists report that moths are discouraged from laying eggs on cabbage sprayed with tansy oil or a strongly brewed tansy tea (because of the volatile oils it contains, tansy teas can be dangerous to humans, especially when consumed in quantity, and should be avoided; instead use it in your garden). Planting tansy near your cabbage crops can also discourage them. In an example of the two-way street nature of companion planting, tansy planted near cabbage does surprisingly well.
As soon as damage is noticed (large irregular holes in leaves, fecal pellets on plants and ground), begin handpicking caterpillars and destroying them.
Late Season
Chickens can be thorough pickers of cabbage worms. Ducks, too. Of course, they might also eat things you don’t want them to, especially early in the season when plants are still small. Wait until your plants are peck-able size and you’re sure you have a pest problem before unleashing the clucks and the quacks.
Botanical insecticides — derived from plants which have insecticidal properties — have fewer harmful side effects and break down more quickly in the environment than synthetic chemicals. However, they are still toxic and should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried.
Once worms are apparent, apply Garden Dust (Bt-kurstaki) to leaves where they’re seen. This naturally occurring soil bacteria, listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute, will take out the worms as they feed.
Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is made from fermentation. It doesn’t persist in the environment — crops are ready for harvest a day after application, and is a good substitute for Bt-kurstaki dusts.
Fall Prevention
To prevent overwintering pupae from emerging as adults in early spring, till under all garden debris to which they might attach. In places with milder winters, it may be necessary to remove the debris all together. Pay special attention to plants of the mustard family. They’re a favorite place for cabbage worm pupae to spend the winter.
Worms will also retreat to garden margins and borders. Keep them clean and short to prevent overwintering there.
The imported cabbageworm (1-1/4 inch long) is velvety green in color and has many short fine hairs and faint yellow strips down its side and back. It’s five sets of pro-legs are easily visible. Adults are white or pale yellow butterflies (1-2 inch wingspan) with three or four black spots on their wings. They are frequently noticed fluttering about the garden from early spring to late fall.
Life Cycle
Adult females emerge in early spring after over wintering as green pupae. They lay up to 200 tiny yellow eggs on host plants, usually on the undersides of leaves. These hatch in 7 or more days (depending on temperature) into young larvae caterpillars. The larvae feed heavily for 15 or more days, then pupate on lower leaf surfaces or nearby garden objects. During late spring and summer, the worm pupates for 10 days before a new generation of butterflies emerges. There are 3 to 5 overlapping generations each year, as many as 8 in warmer areas.
Damage
In the larval stage, cabbage worms will feed on the surface layer of leaves, leaving behind a a translucent, tissue-like scars. As they grow, they chew large, irregular holes usually beginning on the outside leaves of cabbage and other cole and mustard crops (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, turnip, radish). As the worm feeds, it commonly bores into the center of cabbage heads contaminating them with its fecal pellets. The dark-green pellets can also be found in the crook of leaves near the stem.
Cabbageworm Control
The imported cabbage worm is one of many worms that attack garden plants. Luckily, control tactics aimed at a particular worm, be they loopers, army worms, cut worms or diamond back moths, are usually effective against all.
Early Season
This insect has many natural enemies, including predatory beetles, spiders, yellow jackets, green lacewing and parasitic wasps. Birds also favor cabbage worms. Make sure your garden welcomes these creatures. And don’t use chemical sprays that might harm or destroy these natural predators.
Protect plants with floating row covers to prevent adults from laying eggs.
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths.
Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Predator wasps of various sorts, most indigenous to your garden, will seek-out the eggs of all types of worms. Help protect them by using something other than indiscriminate chemical pesticides.
Herbalists report that moths are discouraged from laying eggs on cabbage sprayed with tansy oil or a strongly brewed tansy tea (because of the volatile oils it contains, tansy teas can be dangerous to humans, especially when consumed in quantity, and should be avoided; instead use it in your garden). Planting tansy near your cabbage crops can also discourage them. In an example of the two-way street nature of companion planting, tansy planted near cabbage does surprisingly well.
As soon as damage is noticed (large irregular holes in leaves, fecal pellets on plants and ground), begin handpicking caterpillars and destroying them.
Late Season
Chickens can be thorough pickers of cabbage worms. Ducks, too. Of course, they might also eat things you don’t want them to, especially early in the season when plants are still small. Wait until your plants are peck-able size and you’re sure you have a pest problem before unleashing the clucks and the quacks.
Botanical insecticides — derived from plants which have insecticidal properties — have fewer harmful side effects and break down more quickly in the environment than synthetic chemicals. However, they are still toxic and should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried.
Once worms are apparent, apply Garden Dust (Bt-kurstaki) to leaves where they’re seen. This naturally occurring soil bacteria, listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute, will take out the worms as they feed.
Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is made from fermentation. It doesn’t persist in the environment — crops are ready for harvest a day after application, and is a good substitute for Bt-kurstaki dusts.
Fall Prevention
To prevent overwintering pupae from emerging as adults in early spring, till under all garden debris to which they might attach. In places with milder winters, it may be necessary to remove the debris all together. Pay special attention to plants of the mustard family. They’re a favorite place for cabbage worm pupae to spend the winter.
Worms will also retreat to garden margins and borders. Keep them clean and short to prevent overwintering there.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A pest throughout most of the United States, black vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) attack over 100 different kinds of ornamental plants including rhododendrons, azaleas, yews and hemlocks. When weevils enter greenhouses or indoor gardens they are damaging to begonias, ferns and other common container plants. They are particularly damaging to cyclamens and are often called the “cyclamen grub.”
Adult black vine weevils (3/4 inch long) are large slate-gray to black insects that cannot fly. They have short, broad snouts, bent or “elbowed” antennae and patches of short hairs on their wings. Adults feed at night, damaging plants as they chew small notches in the edges of leaves. During the day, they hide in soil cracks, garden debris and mulch.
Larvae cause the greatest level of injury to plants. They are small (1/2 inch long), white, C-shaped grubs that tunnel through roots as they feed. Leaves will often wilt (even when properly watered) and plants may be stunted or die. Larvae may also girdle the main stem just below the soil line.
Life Cycle
Black vine weevils overwinter as nearly grown larvae in the soil around the roots of host plants. In spring they change to pupae and begin emerging as adults. In two or more weeks (depending on temperature) they begin depositing eggs near the crowns of the host plants. Hatching occurs in about 10 days, and the tiny larvae burrow into the soil and begin feeding. One generation per year.
Vine Weevil Control
Remove mulch and other hiding places from around plants and water only when necessary (larvae and adults prefer moist soil).
As non-flying insects, weevils travel from plant to plant by walking. It stands to reason then, that Tanglefoot Sticky Barrier should form the first line of defense.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting pest protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Immature stages of the black vine weevil are particularly vulnerable to attack by beneficial nematodes, especially in potted plants.
Fast-acting crack and crevice sprays, like Don’t Bug Me, can be used around windows, doors and vents to prevent adult weevils from entering structures.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Tip: Place burlap fabric at the bases of trees and shrubs to trap weevils that hide under it during the day.
Adult black vine weevils (3/4 inch long) are large slate-gray to black insects that cannot fly. They have short, broad snouts, bent or “elbowed” antennae and patches of short hairs on their wings. Adults feed at night, damaging plants as they chew small notches in the edges of leaves. During the day, they hide in soil cracks, garden debris and mulch.
Larvae cause the greatest level of injury to plants. They are small (1/2 inch long), white, C-shaped grubs that tunnel through roots as they feed. Leaves will often wilt (even when properly watered) and plants may be stunted or die. Larvae may also girdle the main stem just below the soil line.
Life Cycle
Black vine weevils overwinter as nearly grown larvae in the soil around the roots of host plants. In spring they change to pupae and begin emerging as adults. In two or more weeks (depending on temperature) they begin depositing eggs near the crowns of the host plants. Hatching occurs in about 10 days, and the tiny larvae burrow into the soil and begin feeding. One generation per year.
Vine Weevil Control
Remove mulch and other hiding places from around plants and water only when necessary (larvae and adults prefer moist soil).
As non-flying insects, weevils travel from plant to plant by walking. It stands to reason then, that Tanglefoot Sticky Barrier should form the first line of defense.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting pest protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Immature stages of the black vine weevil are particularly vulnerable to attack by beneficial nematodes, especially in potted plants.
Fast-acting crack and crevice sprays, like Don’t Bug Me, can be used around windows, doors and vents to prevent adult weevils from entering structures.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Tip: Place burlap fabric at the bases of trees and shrubs to trap weevils that hide under it during the day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Spotting Spider Tree Mites in the Garden
Spider tree mites are among the most commonly found pests in gardens. Hundreds of different species are categorized as spider mites, which are members of the Tetranychidae family. These critters can damage plants by sucking on the tissues, mainly in the leaves. The mites often cluster on the undersides of the leaves.
Eight-legged arachnids, they belong to the same class as spiders and are closely related to ticks. Like spiders, they will produce webbing on the plant. Spider mites come in a wide variety of colors, including red, yellow, green and brown. Some even change colors throughout the year, while others are translucent.
Use the tips that follow to identify signs of an infestation, the common trees spider mites target and the different ways to control them.
Signs of a Spider Mite Infestation
Spider tree mites leave visible signs of damage to trees. If your leaves develop yellow, orange, brown or gray spots, an infestation may be at work. Other signs of infestation include the following:
Leaf drop
Webbing covering the plant
Visual confirmation of the presence of mites
Common Tree and Shrub Hosts
While any tree or shrub may fall prey to spider mites, some often serve as hosts. They include:
Broadleaf evergreens
Elms
Evergreens
Fruit trees
Honeylocust
Maples
Mountain ash
Oaks
Roses
Try Biological Controls First
Several different insects and arachnids are natural predators of spider mites. Encourage these helpers by limiting the use of chemicals in the garden. Natural predators include:
Big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.)
Gall midge (Feltiella acari Suga)
Lacewings (Chrysopa spp.)
Minute pirate bugs (Orius app)
Predatory mites (Phytoseiidae Family)
Predatory thrips (Scolothrips spp.)
Spider mite destroyer (Stethorus app. - a genus of lady beetle)
Organic Controls
Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are organic methods for controlling spider mites. For example, oil from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) can be used as an organic miticide. The timing of when you apply these oils depends on the product used, so consult with someone at your local garden center, nursery or extension center to figure out the right one for your situation.
Combining a couple of tablespoons of natural soap in a quart of water provides an inexpensive and safe way to attack spider mites. Don't add extra soap, as too much may cause leaf damage. For an added punch, include garlic or cayenne.
Water as a Control
Spider mites attack plants that are suffering from drought, so proper watering is essential to help ward off these invaders. Water is also useful in controlling spider mite infestations on houseplants, where it is harder to bring in natural predators and the use of chemicals is undesirable. Use a faucet or hose to knock off mites and webbing, making sure to hit both sides of the leaves. You could also set it in a bathtub to help make this process less messy, if indoors.
Spider tree mites are among the most commonly found pests in gardens. Hundreds of different species are categorized as spider mites, which are members of the Tetranychidae family. These critters can damage plants by sucking on the tissues, mainly in the leaves. The mites often cluster on the undersides of the leaves.
Eight-legged arachnids, they belong to the same class as spiders and are closely related to ticks. Like spiders, they will produce webbing on the plant. Spider mites come in a wide variety of colors, including red, yellow, green and brown. Some even change colors throughout the year, while others are translucent.
Use the tips that follow to identify signs of an infestation, the common trees spider mites target and the different ways to control them.
Signs of a Spider Mite Infestation
Spider tree mites leave visible signs of damage to trees. If your leaves develop yellow, orange, brown or gray spots, an infestation may be at work. Other signs of infestation include the following:
Leaf drop
Webbing covering the plant
Visual confirmation of the presence of mites
Common Tree and Shrub Hosts
While any tree or shrub may fall prey to spider mites, some often serve as hosts. They include:
Broadleaf evergreens
Elms
Evergreens
Fruit trees
Honeylocust
Maples
Mountain ash
Oaks
Roses
Try Biological Controls First
Several different insects and arachnids are natural predators of spider mites. Encourage these helpers by limiting the use of chemicals in the garden. Natural predators include:
Big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.)
Gall midge (Feltiella acari Suga)
Lacewings (Chrysopa spp.)
Minute pirate bugs (Orius app)
Predatory mites (Phytoseiidae Family)
Predatory thrips (Scolothrips spp.)
Spider mite destroyer (Stethorus app. - a genus of lady beetle)
Organic Controls
Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are organic methods for controlling spider mites. For example, oil from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) can be used as an organic miticide. The timing of when you apply these oils depends on the product used, so consult with someone at your local garden center, nursery or extension center to figure out the right one for your situation.
Combining a couple of tablespoons of natural soap in a quart of water provides an inexpensive and safe way to attack spider mites. Don't add extra soap, as too much may cause leaf damage. For an added punch, include garlic or cayenne.
Water as a Control
Spider mites attack plants that are suffering from drought, so proper watering is essential to help ward off these invaders. Water is also useful in controlling spider mite infestations on houseplants, where it is harder to bring in natural predators and the use of chemicals is undesirable. Use a faucet or hose to knock off mites and webbing, making sure to hit both sides of the leaves. You could also set it in a bathtub to help make this process less messy, if indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Ick. I hate spider mites. They are a plague, particularly on the container gardens that I try to overwinter inside. I have had them infest several fruit trees, including, Meyer lemon, lime, kumquat and orange. It could be that all these trees became infested because of their close proximity to each other. However, once one plant gets spider mites they can infest all of your plants pretty quickly.
Unfortunately, it's very hard to get rid of spider mites and sometimes, you just have to pitch plants that get them.
Be careful, if you do have to get rid of plants that are infested, do not compost them. Sadly the best way to get rid of them is to either throw them way out in the woods, or put them in plastic bags and put them in the garbage.
Identifying a Spider Mite Infestation - Spider mites are tiny - smaller than the head of a pin - so it's hard to see them. To identify an infestation, you can check to see if there is webbing on your plants particularly at the intersection of branches. Another, sign, after the spider mites have infested a plant, is to see leaves that are spotted or speckled looking. Spider mights can range in color from red to light brown, yellow to green.
Getting Rid of Spider Mites - Like most plant pests, you a have much better chance dealing with spider mites before you have an all out infestation. The more mites, the more eggs and the harder it is to control them. My first line of defense, with almost any insect problem in my containers (though spider mites aren't actually classified as an insect, but as an arachnid), is to spray them with a hose, trying to knock as many insects off as possible--making sure to spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops. Once the plant is dry, I try an insecticidal soap spray. With large plants, it's hard to get good coverage all over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves, but do the best you can. I like to use insecticidal soap instead of a pesticide because it doesn't harm beneficial insects and is listed as ok for organic gardening. After insecticidal soap, I try neem oil or a neem oil combination. A disadvantage of neem oil is some people don't like the smell and it can be sticky and get on walls and furniture. Another thing to try is a pyrethrin insecticide, which is somewhat more toxic than the neem oil and insecticidal soap, but is still considered "natural" pesticide because it is made from chrysanthemums.
Be Persistent - Chances are you will have to keep spraying your spider mite infested plant every seven to ten days in order to interrupt the cycle of eggs hatching. Also, make sure to spray the soil as well as the entire plant.
When to Give Up - To be honest, there is no absolute answer to this unless your plant is completely dead--even then, plants can surprise you and bounce back. I have battled spider mites through the winter and then have taken plants that looked like they were at death's door, cut them back severely in the spring, and then put them outside. Some of the plants rebounded gorgeously, thriving throughout the summer. However, on bringing them back inside, the mites returned with a vengeance. But I have a hard time giving up on beloved plants, so I tend to keep them limping along, way past when it is practical.
How to Prevent Spider Mites from Attacking Your Plants - Prevention is always the preferred option when it comes to mites. Before you buy a plant, look for the tell-tale signs of spotted leaves or webbing. If you see any indication of mites, don't buy the plant or any plants nearby. Also, mites like dry and dusty conditions, so keep your plants hydrated and healthy, and a level of humidity in the air, so the conditions will be inhospitable to mites.
Unfortunately, it's very hard to get rid of spider mites and sometimes, you just have to pitch plants that get them.
Be careful, if you do have to get rid of plants that are infested, do not compost them. Sadly the best way to get rid of them is to either throw them way out in the woods, or put them in plastic bags and put them in the garbage.
Identifying a Spider Mite Infestation - Spider mites are tiny - smaller than the head of a pin - so it's hard to see them. To identify an infestation, you can check to see if there is webbing on your plants particularly at the intersection of branches. Another, sign, after the spider mites have infested a plant, is to see leaves that are spotted or speckled looking. Spider mights can range in color from red to light brown, yellow to green.
Getting Rid of Spider Mites - Like most plant pests, you a have much better chance dealing with spider mites before you have an all out infestation. The more mites, the more eggs and the harder it is to control them. My first line of defense, with almost any insect problem in my containers (though spider mites aren't actually classified as an insect, but as an arachnid), is to spray them with a hose, trying to knock as many insects off as possible--making sure to spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops. Once the plant is dry, I try an insecticidal soap spray. With large plants, it's hard to get good coverage all over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves, but do the best you can. I like to use insecticidal soap instead of a pesticide because it doesn't harm beneficial insects and is listed as ok for organic gardening. After insecticidal soap, I try neem oil or a neem oil combination. A disadvantage of neem oil is some people don't like the smell and it can be sticky and get on walls and furniture. Another thing to try is a pyrethrin insecticide, which is somewhat more toxic than the neem oil and insecticidal soap, but is still considered "natural" pesticide because it is made from chrysanthemums.
Be Persistent - Chances are you will have to keep spraying your spider mite infested plant every seven to ten days in order to interrupt the cycle of eggs hatching. Also, make sure to spray the soil as well as the entire plant.
When to Give Up - To be honest, there is no absolute answer to this unless your plant is completely dead--even then, plants can surprise you and bounce back. I have battled spider mites through the winter and then have taken plants that looked like they were at death's door, cut them back severely in the spring, and then put them outside. Some of the plants rebounded gorgeously, thriving throughout the summer. However, on bringing them back inside, the mites returned with a vengeance. But I have a hard time giving up on beloved plants, so I tend to keep them limping along, way past when it is practical.
How to Prevent Spider Mites from Attacking Your Plants - Prevention is always the preferred option when it comes to mites. Before you buy a plant, look for the tell-tale signs of spotted leaves or webbing. If you see any indication of mites, don't buy the plant or any plants nearby. Also, mites like dry and dusty conditions, so keep your plants hydrated and healthy, and a level of humidity in the air, so the conditions will be inhospitable to mites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Although an infestation of armyworm caterpillars can rapidly decimate a commercial field crop, they rarely cause this degree of destruction in home gardens. Armyworms feed at night on plant foliage and grass blades; they hide under foliage and debris during the day. Severe feeding can result in dead areas of lawn and ragged-looking or defoliated crops.
Young armyworms are pale green; older larvae are brownish with stripes along their bodies. Several species attack a variety of garden crops, including corn, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, and peas. Adults are gray-brown moths that migrate northward in the spring to lay eggs on host plants and in lawns. There can be several generations each year; each generation emerging farther north. Late-season generations will also feed on fruit.
In general, armyworms do not survive cold winters, but they can be a year-round pest in warm-winter climates, such as California and Florida. Beet armyworms are a problem in southern states and in the West, where they can be found as far north as Montana.
Prevention and Control
Encourage native beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps that prey on caterpillars.
Weed out grassy weeds as well as pigweed, plantain, and lamb’s quarters, which are host plants for the beet armyworm.
Young armyworms are pale green; older larvae are brownish with stripes along their bodies. Several species attack a variety of garden crops, including corn, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, and peas. Adults are gray-brown moths that migrate northward in the spring to lay eggs on host plants and in lawns. There can be several generations each year; each generation emerging farther north. Late-season generations will also feed on fruit.
In general, armyworms do not survive cold winters, but they can be a year-round pest in warm-winter climates, such as California and Florida. Beet armyworms are a problem in southern states and in the West, where they can be found as far north as Montana.
Prevention and Control
Encourage native beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps that prey on caterpillars.
Weed out grassy weeds as well as pigweed, plantain, and lamb’s quarters, which are host plants for the beet armyworm.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Chinese perfume tree (Aglaia odorata) is a small evergreen tree in the mahogany family. It is an ornamental plant in American gardens, typically growing to 10 feet or under and producing intensely fragrant sprays of unusual yellow flowers. If you want to start growing Chinese perfume trees, read on for information on these lovely plants and for tips on Chinese perfume tree care.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) is used for ornamental purposes in gardens today, but in the past, uses of partridgeberry included food and medicine. It is an evergreen creeper vine that produces pairs of white flowers, later evolving into bright red berries. Since this plant is a prostrate vine, it’s easy to use it for ground cover. Read on for other partridgeberry facts and uses of partridgeberry in landscapes.
Partridgeberry Facts
Partridgeberry information tells us that the vine is native to North America. It grows in the wild from Newfoundland to Minnesota and south to Florida and Texas.
Partridgeberry might have more common names than any other vine, however, so you may know the plant by another name. The vine is also called squaw vine, deerberry, checkerberry, running box, winter clover, one berry and twinberry. The name partridgeberry came from the belief in Europe that the berries were eaten by partridges.
The partridgeberry vine forms large mats in the area they are planted, branching and putting down roots at the nodes. Each stem can be up to a foot long. The flowers produced by the vine bloom in early summer. They are tubular with four petals, varying in size from 4 to 12 inches. The flowers grow in groups of two, and when they are fertilized, the ovaries of the twin flowers meld to form one fruit. The red berries remain on the plant all winter long, even for an entire year if left alone. However, they are usually consumed by wild birds like partridge, bobwhites and wild turkeys. Larger mammals eat them too, including foxes, skunks, and white-footed mice. While they are edible for humans, the berries don’t have much taste.
Growing Partridgeberries
If you decide to start growing partridgeberries, you need to find a site with well-draining soil rich in humus. The vine prefers sandy soil that is neither acidic nor alkaline. Plant the vines in an area with morning sun but afternoon shade. Partridgeberry plants establish slowly but surely, eventually forming partridgeberry ground cover. The plant is rarely attacked by pests or troubled by diseases, which makes caring for partridgeberry plants a snap. Essentially, caring for partridgeberry plant once it’s established only involves removing garden debris from the mat. If you want to propagate partridgeberry, dig up a section of established plants and transfer it to a new area. This works well since the vine typically roots from nodes.
Uses of Partridgeberry
Gardeners love growing partridgeberry in winter gardens. During the cold winter days, partridgeberry ground cover is a delight, with its dark-green foliage and scattered blood-red berries. The birds welcome the berries too.
Partridgeberry Facts
Partridgeberry information tells us that the vine is native to North America. It grows in the wild from Newfoundland to Minnesota and south to Florida and Texas.
Partridgeberry might have more common names than any other vine, however, so you may know the plant by another name. The vine is also called squaw vine, deerberry, checkerberry, running box, winter clover, one berry and twinberry. The name partridgeberry came from the belief in Europe that the berries were eaten by partridges.
The partridgeberry vine forms large mats in the area they are planted, branching and putting down roots at the nodes. Each stem can be up to a foot long. The flowers produced by the vine bloom in early summer. They are tubular with four petals, varying in size from 4 to 12 inches. The flowers grow in groups of two, and when they are fertilized, the ovaries of the twin flowers meld to form one fruit. The red berries remain on the plant all winter long, even for an entire year if left alone. However, they are usually consumed by wild birds like partridge, bobwhites and wild turkeys. Larger mammals eat them too, including foxes, skunks, and white-footed mice. While they are edible for humans, the berries don’t have much taste.
Growing Partridgeberries
If you decide to start growing partridgeberries, you need to find a site with well-draining soil rich in humus. The vine prefers sandy soil that is neither acidic nor alkaline. Plant the vines in an area with morning sun but afternoon shade. Partridgeberry plants establish slowly but surely, eventually forming partridgeberry ground cover. The plant is rarely attacked by pests or troubled by diseases, which makes caring for partridgeberry plants a snap. Essentially, caring for partridgeberry plant once it’s established only involves removing garden debris from the mat. If you want to propagate partridgeberry, dig up a section of established plants and transfer it to a new area. This works well since the vine typically roots from nodes.
Uses of Partridgeberry
Gardeners love growing partridgeberry in winter gardens. During the cold winter days, partridgeberry ground cover is a delight, with its dark-green foliage and scattered blood-red berries. The birds welcome the berries too.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Brass buttons is the common name given to the plant Leptinella squalida. This very low growing, vigorously spreading plant is a good choice for rock gardens, the spaces between flagstones, and lawns where turf won’t grow. Keep reading to learn more Leptinella information, including the growing and care of brass button plants.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Snow in summer is a lovely plant with grayish green leaves and bright white flowers in June. It spreads beautifully and is useful in rock gardens where it can cascade down amongst other creeping species. A non-flowering snow in summer plant might seem a mystery, but these short lived plants need dividing annually and well-draining soil to perform properly. If you have no flowers on snow in summer plant, you might just need to fertilize or consider a site change to optimize the plant’s lighting and soil needs.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are a favorite flower in America, gracing gardens across the country. When leaves start turning yellow, though, gardeners must diagnose and respond quickly if they want to keep their beauties blooming. Yellowing leaves can be a symptom of several maladies.
Soil
Roses like a slightly acidic soil with a pH near 6.7 and require nutrients to grow and produce well. A soil that is too alkaline or deficient in iron may cause general yellowing. Soil with excess phosphorus or potassium may need nitrogen to "green up" leaves.
Culture
Crowding can deny leaves the sunlight and air they crave, and they might start to yellow. Over-watering and too much fertilizer can also damage leaves, turning them yellow.
Herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides used on lawns in the spring can damage roots of nearby plants, such as rose bushes, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and glyphosate spray, a common summer broad-leaf weed killer, may cause yellowing from the point of contact.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose scales and leaf hoppers can cause yellow spots and patches on leaves. Use pesticides formulated for the particular insect infecting your roses.
Fungus
Fungi are transmitted by rain, wind, insects and gardening tools. Black spot is surrounded by a yellow "halo" and rust makes yellow patches with orange or black spores on the underside of the leaf. Prune the affected parts out of your rose bush.
Virus
Mosaic virus is a disease transmitted from a parent plant or by insects. It starts with yellow streaks on leaves.
Soil
Roses like a slightly acidic soil with a pH near 6.7 and require nutrients to grow and produce well. A soil that is too alkaline or deficient in iron may cause general yellowing. Soil with excess phosphorus or potassium may need nitrogen to "green up" leaves.
Culture
Crowding can deny leaves the sunlight and air they crave, and they might start to yellow. Over-watering and too much fertilizer can also damage leaves, turning them yellow.
Herbicides
Pre-emergent herbicides used on lawns in the spring can damage roots of nearby plants, such as rose bushes, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and glyphosate spray, a common summer broad-leaf weed killer, may cause yellowing from the point of contact.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose scales and leaf hoppers can cause yellow spots and patches on leaves. Use pesticides formulated for the particular insect infecting your roses.
Fungus
Fungi are transmitted by rain, wind, insects and gardening tools. Black spot is surrounded by a yellow "halo" and rust makes yellow patches with orange or black spores on the underside of the leaf. Prune the affected parts out of your rose bush.
Virus
Mosaic virus is a disease transmitted from a parent plant or by insects. It starts with yellow streaks on leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Dymondia silver carpet (Dymondia margaretae) is a delightfully dense, drought tolerant, 1-2” high, spreading ground cover perfect for most sunny water-wise gardens. If you’re looking for something attractive in your landscape, you may want to consider growing this plant. Read on to learn more and take advantage of this versatile ground cover.
About Dymondia Silver Carpet
Dymondia has grey green leaves with fuzzy white undersides that curl up on the edges. The overall effect of dymondia ground cover is variegated when close up or soft grey-green from a distance.
Dymondia is slow growing but will spread a bit faster with regular irrigation. It will crowd out most weeds over time. In summertime, its yellow daisy flowers brighten up the landscape. Dymondia silver carpet withstands a little foot traffic and is deer resistant. It is perfect between stepping stones and in rock gardens. Some people have even been known to use the plant as a lawn substitute. It also performs well on the coast.
How to Plant Dymondia Ground Cover
Planting dymondia in boggy, poor draining soil is a bad idea. Dymondia ground cover is also susceptible to gophers. Use gopher baskets and improve your soil drainage with compost or pumice before you install dymondia. Proper care of dymondia is easy. Water it regularly the first year. Don’t over water in subsequent years. Deadhead the flowers after they have faded. Protect dymondia from frost. That’s all. It’s that easy!
Is Dymondia Invasive?
Some people may wonder, “Is dymondia invasive?” No, it is not. Dymondia silver carpet is a charming, well-behaved ground cover with attractive silver foliage, happy yellow flowers and a weed-suppressing growth habit. Have fun growing this little gem in your garden!
About Dymondia Silver Carpet
Dymondia has grey green leaves with fuzzy white undersides that curl up on the edges. The overall effect of dymondia ground cover is variegated when close up or soft grey-green from a distance.
Dymondia is slow growing but will spread a bit faster with regular irrigation. It will crowd out most weeds over time. In summertime, its yellow daisy flowers brighten up the landscape. Dymondia silver carpet withstands a little foot traffic and is deer resistant. It is perfect between stepping stones and in rock gardens. Some people have even been known to use the plant as a lawn substitute. It also performs well on the coast.
How to Plant Dymondia Ground Cover
Planting dymondia in boggy, poor draining soil is a bad idea. Dymondia ground cover is also susceptible to gophers. Use gopher baskets and improve your soil drainage with compost or pumice before you install dymondia. Proper care of dymondia is easy. Water it regularly the first year. Don’t over water in subsequent years. Deadhead the flowers after they have faded. Protect dymondia from frost. That’s all. It’s that easy!
Is Dymondia Invasive?
Some people may wonder, “Is dymondia invasive?” No, it is not. Dymondia silver carpet is a charming, well-behaved ground cover with attractive silver foliage, happy yellow flowers and a weed-suppressing growth habit. Have fun growing this little gem in your garden!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’) is a Japanese plant that has charmed the gardens of the world. A decorative, low growing plant, this plant looks best when grouped together but sometimes there may only be a few plants available. This is where dwarf mondo grass propagation comes in handy. There are two propagation methods available for dwarf mondo grass. One is planting dwarf mondo grass seeds and the other is division of your plant.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Seeds
If you decided to grow dwarf mondo grass seeds, be aware that they are finicky and you may have trouble getting them to grow. They may also not grow true to the parent plant. This is the more difficult of dwarf mondo grass propagation. Harvest seeds yourself and plant immediately. Seeds you buy will have a lower germination rate the less fresh they are. Plant your seeds in sterile potting soil and place the pots in a cold frame or other cool area. These seeds will germinate best in cooler temperatures. Keep the dwarf mondo grass seeds moist at all times. Wait two weeks to six months for seeds to germinate. They will germinate at irregular times. Some may sprout in two weeks, while others will take much longer.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Division
A much easier and sure fire way of dwarf mondo grass propagation is through division. This way you can plant dwarf mondo grass that is exactly like the parent and you will have a much more uniform look to your plants. For division, dig up a well established clump of dwarf mondo grass. Use your hands to break the clump into smaller clumps or use a sharp, clean knife to cut the clump into smaller clumps.
Plant the dwarf mondo grass clumps in the locations you would like them to grow in. Water them thoroughly and weep well watered for the first few weeks until them become established. The best time to divide your mondo grass in in the early spring or early fall.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Seeds
If you decided to grow dwarf mondo grass seeds, be aware that they are finicky and you may have trouble getting them to grow. They may also not grow true to the parent plant. This is the more difficult of dwarf mondo grass propagation. Harvest seeds yourself and plant immediately. Seeds you buy will have a lower germination rate the less fresh they are. Plant your seeds in sterile potting soil and place the pots in a cold frame or other cool area. These seeds will germinate best in cooler temperatures. Keep the dwarf mondo grass seeds moist at all times. Wait two weeks to six months for seeds to germinate. They will germinate at irregular times. Some may sprout in two weeks, while others will take much longer.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Division
A much easier and sure fire way of dwarf mondo grass propagation is through division. This way you can plant dwarf mondo grass that is exactly like the parent and you will have a much more uniform look to your plants. For division, dig up a well established clump of dwarf mondo grass. Use your hands to break the clump into smaller clumps or use a sharp, clean knife to cut the clump into smaller clumps.
Plant the dwarf mondo grass clumps in the locations you would like them to grow in. Water them thoroughly and weep well watered for the first few weeks until them become established. The best time to divide your mondo grass in in the early spring or early fall.
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sheepdog：divide and conquer!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Bracken ferns (Pteridium aquilinum) are quite common in North America and native to many areas of the United States. Bracken fern information says the large fern is one of the most prevalent ferns growing on the continent. Bracken fern in gardens and in woodland areas may be located in all states, except Nebraska.
Bracken Fern Information
Bracken fern uses may be somewhat limited in the garden, but once you’ve found the right spot and the proper use for them, they are easy to get started. Growing bracken fern in gardens is often not a good idea because it can usually out compete other plants growing in the same area.
Bracken ferns in gardens and other areas are attractive plants with delicate looking fronds. Plants normally reach from 3 to 4 feet in height, but they may grow up to 7 feet. The fronds appear early in spring. Foliage grows from underground rhizomes that spread quickly, so much so that most other plants attempting to share the same soil are occasionally quickly overtaken. If one of your chosen bracken fern uses is as part of a woodland garden, expect them to spread through the wooded area.
Bracken fern uses may be in rock gardens, edging for wooded areas and anywhere a large, ferny specimen is needed and will not crowd out most ornamentals. Other woodland plants which can grow successfully with bracken ferns include:
Wild violets
Sarsaparilla
Oak fern
Wild asters
Conditions and Care of Bracken Fern Plants
Bracken fern growing conditions include some shade, but not too much. Unlike many ferns, bracken fern information says the plant won’t grow in full shade. And while optimum bracken fern growing conditions include moist soil, the plant won’t survive in a waterlogged area. When planted in the right area, however, care of bracken fern plants may include removal of them if they become too aggressive. Aside from spreading rhizomes, bracken fern information says the plant multiplies from dropped spores that fall from the feathery fronds. Bracken fern uses in your landscape may be growing them in containers to limit their spread. The plant should be grown in a large pot, or one that is buried to curtail spread of the rhizomes.
Bracken ferns are poisonous, so plant them out of the way of livestock and wildlife. Some info about the plant suggests that it should not be cultivated, but bracken fern toxicity usually occurs when the fern is harvested along with food grown for livestock. It you think your pet has ingested bracken fern, contact poison control or your veterinarian.
Bracken Fern Information
Bracken fern uses may be somewhat limited in the garden, but once you’ve found the right spot and the proper use for them, they are easy to get started. Growing bracken fern in gardens is often not a good idea because it can usually out compete other plants growing in the same area.
Bracken ferns in gardens and other areas are attractive plants with delicate looking fronds. Plants normally reach from 3 to 4 feet in height, but they may grow up to 7 feet. The fronds appear early in spring. Foliage grows from underground rhizomes that spread quickly, so much so that most other plants attempting to share the same soil are occasionally quickly overtaken. If one of your chosen bracken fern uses is as part of a woodland garden, expect them to spread through the wooded area.
Bracken fern uses may be in rock gardens, edging for wooded areas and anywhere a large, ferny specimen is needed and will not crowd out most ornamentals. Other woodland plants which can grow successfully with bracken ferns include:
Wild violets
Sarsaparilla
Oak fern
Wild asters
Conditions and Care of Bracken Fern Plants
Bracken fern growing conditions include some shade, but not too much. Unlike many ferns, bracken fern information says the plant won’t grow in full shade. And while optimum bracken fern growing conditions include moist soil, the plant won’t survive in a waterlogged area. When planted in the right area, however, care of bracken fern plants may include removal of them if they become too aggressive. Aside from spreading rhizomes, bracken fern information says the plant multiplies from dropped spores that fall from the feathery fronds. Bracken fern uses in your landscape may be growing them in containers to limit their spread. The plant should be grown in a large pot, or one that is buried to curtail spread of the rhizomes.
Bracken ferns are poisonous, so plant them out of the way of livestock and wildlife. Some info about the plant suggests that it should not be cultivated, but bracken fern toxicity usually occurs when the fern is harvested along with food grown for livestock. It you think your pet has ingested bracken fern, contact poison control or your veterinarian.
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