文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Deer are attracted to well-fertilized plants, such as those grown in gardens. Deer obtain protein, minerals, salt and one-third of their water intake from tender foliage and irrigated plants, according to the University of Georgia. Petunias tend to attract deer.
Deer Resistance
Petunias (Petunia spp.), a popular garden annual, are occasionally or frequently browsed by deer. Deer are especially attracted to moist plants, such as petunias, in spring and summer.
Features
Petunias grow from 6 to 36 inches tall. Plants can grow as trailing ground cover or as hedges. Petunias produce flowers from May through October in a variety of colors, including pink, purple, red, white and yellow.
Cultivation
Plant petunias in full sun and well-drained, moist soil. Avoid heavy soil, as this can affect blooming. Petunias are susceptible to gray mold, aphid infestation and slug damage. Pinch plants at the end of the season to help plants keep blooming.
Deer Resistance
Petunias (Petunia spp.), a popular garden annual, are occasionally or frequently browsed by deer. Deer are especially attracted to moist plants, such as petunias, in spring and summer.
Features
Petunias grow from 6 to 36 inches tall. Plants can grow as trailing ground cover or as hedges. Petunias produce flowers from May through October in a variety of colors, including pink, purple, red, white and yellow.
Cultivation
Plant petunias in full sun and well-drained, moist soil. Avoid heavy soil, as this can affect blooming. Petunias are susceptible to gray mold, aphid infestation and slug damage. Pinch plants at the end of the season to help plants keep blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Gardeners flock to their vegetable and flower gardens in spring, replanting vegetables and tending perennial bulbs and bushes. Springtime also sees new plantings with new bulbs and perennials going into the ground and short-term annuals filling in the gaps. Annual petunias and marigolds both grow successfully separately and together throughout the country.
Petunias
The University of Minnesota ranks petunias among the most popular summertime annuals for their bright colors, lively fragrance and adaptability. Petunias grow in grandiflora, multiflora, miliflora and groundcover varieties with compact to vining growth, single-to double-petal flowers and many colors.
Marigolds
The Clemson Cooperative Extension notes that marigolds are very successful in home gardens with good hardiness and disease resistance. Marigolds grow in dwarf and large sizes ranging from 6 inches to 3 feet in height, depending on cultivar. Marigolds always bloom in oranges, yellows and reds.
Growing Season
Petunias and marigolds are annuals growing and blooming from spring to fall with the right care. As annuals, both plants fade and die in frost, requiring replanting in spring. Gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can maintain both varieties through winter in the absence of frost.
Site Requirements
Marigolds and petunias both do best in full sun and rich, dark soil. Both plants need quick drainage and grow well in the same beds. Amending the soil with organic compost and 5-10-5 fertilizer before planting gives the plants nutrition. Plant them according to cultivar-specific spacing and depth needs.
Petunias
The University of Minnesota ranks petunias among the most popular summertime annuals for their bright colors, lively fragrance and adaptability. Petunias grow in grandiflora, multiflora, miliflora and groundcover varieties with compact to vining growth, single-to double-petal flowers and many colors.
Marigolds
The Clemson Cooperative Extension notes that marigolds are very successful in home gardens with good hardiness and disease resistance. Marigolds grow in dwarf and large sizes ranging from 6 inches to 3 feet in height, depending on cultivar. Marigolds always bloom in oranges, yellows and reds.
Growing Season
Petunias and marigolds are annuals growing and blooming from spring to fall with the right care. As annuals, both plants fade and die in frost, requiring replanting in spring. Gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can maintain both varieties through winter in the absence of frost.
Site Requirements
Marigolds and petunias both do best in full sun and rich, dark soil. Both plants need quick drainage and grow well in the same beds. Amending the soil with organic compost and 5-10-5 fertilizer before planting gives the plants nutrition. Plant them according to cultivar-specific spacing and depth needs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias are bright and colorful annual flowers thriving throughout the country. They grow in both small and large varieties and bring color to all summertime gardens. They require the right season and conditions to maintain healthy stems, foliage and blooms. Petunias may go brown for a number of reasons.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Brightly colored zinnias are a welcome sight in summer gardens. Once the weather warms up, zinnias are easy to grow in sunny flowerbeds and borders. They are attractive whether grown en masse or in clumps of three, five or seven plants in a mixed border. Not only are they easy to grow, they have a long vase life too, making them a favorite among veteran gardeners.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Golden trumpet vine is a common sight in gardens with year-round warmth and plenty of sun. These needs make growing Allamanda indoors ideal where there is good southern or western exposure. Even the northernmost gardener can enjoy an indoor Allamanda flowering vine. You may have to invest in a good plant light and turn up the thermostat, but it’s worth it to bring the rich yellow flowers and lovely formed foliage. Allamanda plant care is similar to most tropical houseplants and can be mastered with a few tricks.
Golden Trumpet Flower
Allamanda is native to northern South America. As such it requires high light, consistently warm temperatures and humidity of at least 50 percent. These conditions are hard to simulate in the average home without grow lights, humidifiers and heaters. Greenhouse conditions are often ideal for Allamanda plant care. Indoors, we tend to have less moisture in the air and sun doesn’t penetrate the interior for as many hours as the plant needs. You can overwinter the vine and bring it out into the bright rays of light in spring and summer. There golden trumpet houseplants can recharge and produce the amazing bright yellow 5-inch blooms characteristic of the Allamanda.
Growing Allamanda Indoors
It can be quite tricky to mimic the native growing conditions of golden trumpet plants as indoor specimens. Indoor Allamanda flowering vine needs structural support for the rambling stems. You can keep it pruned for a more compact plant. Good care of Allamanda golden trumpet starts with the planting medium. Use a potting soil with equal parts peat, compost and sand. Golden trumpet houseplants need four hours or more of direct bright sunlight. The container should be at least a gallon with drainage holes. An unglazed pot is best since it will promote evaporation of excess moisture. Place the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. This will create a humid atmosphere which is required for a healthy Allamanda. You can also use a humidifier. Keep the plant away from drafty doors and windows and several feet away from a heater.
Care of Allamanda Golden Trumpet
Water deeply until the excess moisture runs out of the drainage holes but then wait until the top surface of the soil dries out before you irrigate again. Allamanda doesn’t like wet feet. Fertilize in spring through summer every two to three weeks with a good blooming plant food. Allow the plant to rest in winter. Suspend fertilizing in winter as part of good Allamanda plant care. Restart fertilizing in April and move the plant outside as soon as temperatures are above 60 F. (16 C.). Prune in early spring and cut stems back to pone to two nodes to promote tighter new growth. This plant is prone to spider mites and whiteflies, so watch carefully for these pests. At the first sign put the plant in the shower and hose off as many of the little guys as you can, then follow with daily applications of horticultural soap or a Neem spray.
Golden Trumpet Flower
Allamanda is native to northern South America. As such it requires high light, consistently warm temperatures and humidity of at least 50 percent. These conditions are hard to simulate in the average home without grow lights, humidifiers and heaters. Greenhouse conditions are often ideal for Allamanda plant care. Indoors, we tend to have less moisture in the air and sun doesn’t penetrate the interior for as many hours as the plant needs. You can overwinter the vine and bring it out into the bright rays of light in spring and summer. There golden trumpet houseplants can recharge and produce the amazing bright yellow 5-inch blooms characteristic of the Allamanda.
Growing Allamanda Indoors
It can be quite tricky to mimic the native growing conditions of golden trumpet plants as indoor specimens. Indoor Allamanda flowering vine needs structural support for the rambling stems. You can keep it pruned for a more compact plant. Good care of Allamanda golden trumpet starts with the planting medium. Use a potting soil with equal parts peat, compost and sand. Golden trumpet houseplants need four hours or more of direct bright sunlight. The container should be at least a gallon with drainage holes. An unglazed pot is best since it will promote evaporation of excess moisture. Place the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. This will create a humid atmosphere which is required for a healthy Allamanda. You can also use a humidifier. Keep the plant away from drafty doors and windows and several feet away from a heater.
Care of Allamanda Golden Trumpet
Water deeply until the excess moisture runs out of the drainage holes but then wait until the top surface of the soil dries out before you irrigate again. Allamanda doesn’t like wet feet. Fertilize in spring through summer every two to three weeks with a good blooming plant food. Allow the plant to rest in winter. Suspend fertilizing in winter as part of good Allamanda plant care. Restart fertilizing in April and move the plant outside as soon as temperatures are above 60 F. (16 C.). Prune in early spring and cut stems back to pone to two nodes to promote tighter new growth. This plant is prone to spider mites and whiteflies, so watch carefully for these pests. At the first sign put the plant in the shower and hose off as many of the little guys as you can, then follow with daily applications of horticultural soap or a Neem spray.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses hold a spiritual significance throughout history. Monks took care of rose gardens in the Middle Ages. Biblical scholars cite references to roses in the Bible. A single red rose, as the Alchemy Guild points out, symbolizes the mystic center.
Soul
The rose is a symbol of the soul in the Muslim religion. Prophet Muhammad used roses as part of his spiritual practices. The fragrance of the rose reminds followers of the connection with their souls.
Christianity
Roses appear in religious depictions of paradise. As the Rev. Theodore A. Koehler notes, the red rose stands for martyrs. The five petals of the rose signify the wounds of Christ. The Virgin Mary is the "Mystic Rose."
Colors
The color of a rose has spiritual significance. The white rose, the "rose of confession" stands for pure spiritual love. White roses in a bridal bouquet represent a holy union. Red roses stand for sacrifice.
Number
Giving a single white rose expresses forgiveness. A bouquet of a dozen roses means "true love" because 12 is considered by many religions as a complete cycle. Nine roses stand for eternal love.
Mythology
Aphrodite is depicted with roses in her hair. Achilles's shield has a rose emblem. The Greek poet Sappho wrote about roses.
Soul
The rose is a symbol of the soul in the Muslim religion. Prophet Muhammad used roses as part of his spiritual practices. The fragrance of the rose reminds followers of the connection with their souls.
Christianity
Roses appear in religious depictions of paradise. As the Rev. Theodore A. Koehler notes, the red rose stands for martyrs. The five petals of the rose signify the wounds of Christ. The Virgin Mary is the "Mystic Rose."
Colors
The color of a rose has spiritual significance. The white rose, the "rose of confession" stands for pure spiritual love. White roses in a bridal bouquet represent a holy union. Red roses stand for sacrifice.
Number
Giving a single white rose expresses forgiveness. A bouquet of a dozen roses means "true love" because 12 is considered by many religions as a complete cycle. Nine roses stand for eternal love.
Mythology
Aphrodite is depicted with roses in her hair. Achilles's shield has a rose emblem. The Greek poet Sappho wrote about roses.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Primroses (Primula polyanthus), an old-fashioned perennial popular in gardens for hundreds of years, is native to the Northern Hemisphere. Most primroses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. Over 400 species of the rosette-like plant grow both in the wild and cultivated in proper gardens, and one of the tricks gardeners learn early is that their primrose bed will last much longer if the plants are properly deadheaded.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The Helxine soleirolii is a low growing plant often found in terrariums or bottle gardens. Usually referred to as the baby’s tear plant, it may also be listed under other common names such as Corsican curse, Corsican carpet plant, Irish moss (not to be confused with Sagina Irish moss) and mind-your-own-business. Baby’s tear care is easy and this houseplant will provide additional interest to the home.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
The lush growth of your flower and vegetable gardens attract wildlife to your yard. Your carefully cultivated plants are an exotic delicatessen, free for animals' eating enjoyment. Although you can take precautions to discourage the animals from eating your flowers and vegetables, you may still end up sharing some of your harvest when food is scarce for the wildlife.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
These striking shrubs are very familiar to people familiar with British gardens, but to see them at their best the Iberian Peninsula is the place to go.
Identification
The flowers have rather crumpled-looking petals, some pure white and others white with dark maroon spots. The sticky, oderous substance which comes from the tough, dark green leaves of the plant is used in the perfume industry.
Habitat
From the maquis (areas with shrubs up to 5 metres in height) and well into the hills of Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula in general Gum Cistus flourishes.
Distribution
Gum Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is native to Spain, Portugal, southern France and North West Africa. In other places - Cyprus for example - this plant has been introduced and is now naturalised.
Blooming times
In their native (Mediterranean) countries, Gum Cistus flowers can be seen from April to June.
Similar species
Some other species of cistus to appear in the Mediterranean region include Cistus Albidus (Grey-leaved Cistus) and Cistus salviifolius (Sage-leaved Cistus). Many of the bushes are parisitised by Cytinus hypocistis, and the best time to see this fascinating plant (growing around the roots of the cistus bushes) is from mid-April until June.
Identification
The flowers have rather crumpled-looking petals, some pure white and others white with dark maroon spots. The sticky, oderous substance which comes from the tough, dark green leaves of the plant is used in the perfume industry.
Habitat
From the maquis (areas with shrubs up to 5 metres in height) and well into the hills of Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula in general Gum Cistus flourishes.
Distribution
Gum Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is native to Spain, Portugal, southern France and North West Africa. In other places - Cyprus for example - this plant has been introduced and is now naturalised.
Blooming times
In their native (Mediterranean) countries, Gum Cistus flowers can be seen from April to June.
Similar species
Some other species of cistus to appear in the Mediterranean region include Cistus Albidus (Grey-leaved Cistus) and Cistus salviifolius (Sage-leaved Cistus). Many of the bushes are parisitised by Cytinus hypocistis, and the best time to see this fascinating plant (growing around the roots of the cistus bushes) is from mid-April until June.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It's always fun as well as very interesting to find growing in the wild a plant that we buy when back at home in order to have it in the gardens! Aubrieta is one of our favourites. It manages to bloom early, even in gardens in the UK, and this is because, in the wild, it grows high up in the mountains and is used to inhospitable conditions like the English spring, which punishes so many of the other early-flowering plants.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful m\uve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful m\uve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Arum italicum is a common wildflower throughout the Mediterranean region, but is also frequently seen in gardens in Britain and other more northerly European countries where it has been cultivated.
Like other arums, this plant has long-stalked, heart-shaped leaves which are deeply veined in white or cream. The tiny flowers of arums are found on the thickened central axis of the plant, called the spadix, which is tightly wrapped in a large fleshy sheath, called the spathe. As the plant develops, the spathe opens to reveal the spadix.
The fruiting spike of Large Cuckoo Pint is long, up to 15cm, and the spadix, when revealed, is pale yellow. The spathe is pale green but sometimes flushed with purple, towards its base, on the outer side.
Like Arum creticum, the Cretan endemic, Arum italiucm flowers in April and May. It grows in moist and generally shaded habitats making it an ideal plant for the edges of woodland streams and marshes.
Like other arums, this plant has long-stalked, heart-shaped leaves which are deeply veined in white or cream. The tiny flowers of arums are found on the thickened central axis of the plant, called the spadix, which is tightly wrapped in a large fleshy sheath, called the spathe. As the plant develops, the spathe opens to reveal the spadix.
The fruiting spike of Large Cuckoo Pint is long, up to 15cm, and the spadix, when revealed, is pale yellow. The spathe is pale green but sometimes flushed with purple, towards its base, on the outer side.
Like Arum creticum, the Cretan endemic, Arum italiucm flowers in April and May. It grows in moist and generally shaded habitats making it an ideal plant for the edges of woodland streams and marshes.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in desert gardens and in sandy soils with little moisture. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, depending on the variety. Although agaves die after flowering, they have a long flowering cycle and can live for eight to 60 years. These desert succulents transplant well and tolerate disturbance, so you can move the plants to a new area at any time during the spring and summer growing season.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It happens to the best of us. Your garden grows so nice and then, without any warning, you turn around and notice all your healthy plants wilting and dying. Southern blight on plants is a common problem in many home gardens but it doesn’t have to be. How do you control southern blight before it takes out all of your plants? Keep reading to find out ways for controlling southern blight in gardens. What is Southern Blight? Southern blight, southern wilt, southern stem rot and southern root rot all refer to the same disease.
It is caused by the soil borne fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. The disease attacks a wide range of vegetable crops and ornamental plants at or below the soil line. Southern blight on plants is most likely to occur in the summer months when the soil is warm and moist. Symptoms include discolored lower leaves, wilted foliage and plant collapse; and it usually results in the death of the plant. Upon close inspection, you may find an abundance of white hyphae or mycelia around the lower stem and roots, and in the surrounding soil. When you find the hyphae or mycelia, the best course of action is to dispose of the plant and the soil surrounding it. How Do You Control Southern Blight? Controlling southern blight in the home garden is a challenge because the fungicides that are effective in treating the disease are only available to commercial growers. Home gardeners must depend on cultural practices to control the disease. In the home garden, southern blight treatment begins with good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease. The disease organism travels around the garden in bits of soil that clings to garden tools and the soles of shoes.
Remove the soil before moving from one part of the garden to another. Quarantine new plants by growing them in a bed that is isolated from the rest of the garden until you are sure they are disease-free. Remove and destroy diseased plants, along with the surrounding soil and any garden debris or mulch that has come in contact with them. Don’t transplant any nearby plants to other parts of the garden. Soil solarization is an effective method of killing the fungus in the South, but in northern climates, the soil temperatures may not be high enough to eradicate the disease. Cover the soil with a clear plastic tarp and leave it in place while the heat builds up under it.
The top two inches of soil must come to a temperature of at least 122 F. (50 C.) to kill the fungus. If all else fails, consider calling in a landscape professional to treat your garden soil with the appropriate fungicides specified for southern blight treatment.
It is caused by the soil borne fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. The disease attacks a wide range of vegetable crops and ornamental plants at or below the soil line. Southern blight on plants is most likely to occur in the summer months when the soil is warm and moist. Symptoms include discolored lower leaves, wilted foliage and plant collapse; and it usually results in the death of the plant. Upon close inspection, you may find an abundance of white hyphae or mycelia around the lower stem and roots, and in the surrounding soil. When you find the hyphae or mycelia, the best course of action is to dispose of the plant and the soil surrounding it. How Do You Control Southern Blight? Controlling southern blight in the home garden is a challenge because the fungicides that are effective in treating the disease are only available to commercial growers. Home gardeners must depend on cultural practices to control the disease. In the home garden, southern blight treatment begins with good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease. The disease organism travels around the garden in bits of soil that clings to garden tools and the soles of shoes.
Remove the soil before moving from one part of the garden to another. Quarantine new plants by growing them in a bed that is isolated from the rest of the garden until you are sure they are disease-free. Remove and destroy diseased plants, along with the surrounding soil and any garden debris or mulch that has come in contact with them. Don’t transplant any nearby plants to other parts of the garden. Soil solarization is an effective method of killing the fungus in the South, but in northern climates, the soil temperatures may not be high enough to eradicate the disease. Cover the soil with a clear plastic tarp and leave it in place while the heat builds up under it.
The top two inches of soil must come to a temperature of at least 122 F. (50 C.) to kill the fungus. If all else fails, consider calling in a landscape professional to treat your garden soil with the appropriate fungicides specified for southern blight treatment.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are much more than just spine-covered desert plants. In reality, the cactus family incorporates a great variety of versatile and useful plants that are both attractive and easy to grow. In dry regions and drought-resistant gardens, cactus is ideal because it can store water on its own. Many cactus varieties display beautiful, exotic-looking flowers. With their many shapes and sizes, cacti serve well as ornamental and landscape plants without requiring much maintenance.
Drought Resistance
Cactus is one of the best choices for a drought-resistant garden in arid regions and can help gardeners and landscapers reduce water usage. Drought-resistant gardens are those designed to thrive even when rainfall is infrequent, and do not require irrigation. Cacti are succulents and can store water within their stems for use during periods of drought. The ease of growing cactus makes maintaining a landscape more feasible. Overwatering is one of the most common ways to kill a cactus. Water infrequently, especially during winter.
Ornamental Flowers
Despite their often intimidating and painful spines, cactus plants often produce some of the showiest flowers among plants. Plant flower-bearing cacti as ornamental additions both indoors or outdoors. The flowers tend to be limited in number but are often large, have numerous petals and come in various shapes. This is especially true of Epiphyllum, the orchid cactus, which grows flowers up to 8 inches in diameter that emit a strong fragrance. Soehrensia bruchii bears vivid red petals, while Trichocereus lamprochlorus explodes a large bloom in bright yellow.
Landscaping
Plant cacti in a landscape function to add texture and shape to a yard, or to fill open spots with versatility and variety. Grow lithops if you need low-growing, small specimens. Lithops are called "living stones" or "flowering stones" because they mimic rocks. Other cacti serve well as potted plants, such as crassulas. Grow a taller cactus, such as Saguarop, to fill vertical space in a landscape. Depending on the variety, cacti may be round and small, or grow extremely large, and may be shade-loving or sun-loving plants.
Food
Certain varieties of cactus can also function as edible food crops. The Mexican dish "nopales" is made of young stems of the prickly pear cactus.The texture and flavor is comparable to green beans. The prickly pear's small leaves are also used as a crispy lettuce. Texas A&M Agrilife Extension recommends preparing nopales as follows: Remove thorns with a peeler or knife if they are present. Cut them into squares and boil with chopped onion, salt and soda until tender.
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