文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The lotus (Nelumbo) is an aquatic plant with interesting leaves and stunning flowers. It’s most commonly grown in water gardens. It is very invasive, so care has to be taken when growing it, or it will quickly take over its environment. Keep reading to learn more lotus plant information, including lotus plant care and how to grow a lotus plant.
How to Grow a Lotus Plant
Growing lotus plants requires a certain amount of diligence. The plants will spread quickly and easily if grown in the soil, so it’s best to plant them in containers. Make sure your container has no drainage holes – lotus roots can easily escape through them, and since your container will be underwater, drainage is a non-issue.
If you’re growing lotus plants from rhizomes, fill a container with garden soil and lightly cover the rhizomes, leaving the pointed tips slightly exposed. Submerge the container in water so that the surface is about 2 inches above the soil line. You may have to put a layer of gravel on top of the soil to keep it from floating away. After a few days, the first leaf should emerge. Keep raising the level of the water to match the length of the stems. Once the weather outside is at least 60 F. (16 C.) and the stems extend several inches, you can move your container outdoors.
Sink the container in your outdoor water garden no more than 18 inches from the surface. You may have to raise it up on bricks or cinder blocks.
Lotus Plant Care
Caring for lotus plants is relatively easy. Place them in a spot that receives full sun and fertilize them moderately.
Lotus tubers can’t survive freezing. If your pond does not freeze solid, your lotus should be able to overwinter if placed deeper than the freeze line. If you’re worried about freezing, you can dig up your lotus tubers and overwinter them indoors in a cool place.
How to Grow a Lotus Plant
Growing lotus plants requires a certain amount of diligence. The plants will spread quickly and easily if grown in the soil, so it’s best to plant them in containers. Make sure your container has no drainage holes – lotus roots can easily escape through them, and since your container will be underwater, drainage is a non-issue.
If you’re growing lotus plants from rhizomes, fill a container with garden soil and lightly cover the rhizomes, leaving the pointed tips slightly exposed. Submerge the container in water so that the surface is about 2 inches above the soil line. You may have to put a layer of gravel on top of the soil to keep it from floating away. After a few days, the first leaf should emerge. Keep raising the level of the water to match the length of the stems. Once the weather outside is at least 60 F. (16 C.) and the stems extend several inches, you can move your container outdoors.
Sink the container in your outdoor water garden no more than 18 inches from the surface. You may have to raise it up on bricks or cinder blocks.
Lotus Plant Care
Caring for lotus plants is relatively easy. Place them in a spot that receives full sun and fertilize them moderately.
Lotus tubers can’t survive freezing. If your pond does not freeze solid, your lotus should be able to overwinter if placed deeper than the freeze line. If you’re worried about freezing, you can dig up your lotus tubers and overwinter them indoors in a cool place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
An often forgotten herb, sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) can be a valuable addition to the garden, particularly shade gardens. Sweet woodruff herb was originally grown for the fresh smell the leaves give off and was used as a type of air freshener. It also has some medicinal uses, though as always you should check with a doctor before using any medical herb. It is also an edible plant that is said to taste somewhat of vanilla. Today, sweet woodruff is most commonly used as a ground cover in shady areas. Sweet woodruff ground cover, with its star-shaped whorls of leaves and lacy white flowers, can add interesting texture and spark to a deeply shaded part of the garden. Sweet woodruff care is easy and taking the time to plant sweet woodruff is well worth the effort.
How to Grow Sweet Woodruff Herb
Sweet woodruff herb should be planted in a shady area. They like moist but well draining soil that is rich in organic material from things like decomposing leaves and branches, but will also grow in dry soils. It grows in USDA Zones 4-8. Sweet woodruff spreads by runners. In moist soil, it can spread very quickly and can become invasive in the right conditions. It is often recommended that you plant sweet woodruff ground cover in an area that you would not mind seeing naturalized by sweet woodruff. You can also keep sweet woodruff under control by spade edging around the bed yearly. Spade edging is done by driving a spade into the soil on the edge of the flower bed where you are growing sweet woodruff. This will sever the runners. Remove any sweet woodruff plants growing outside the bed. After the plants are established, growing sweet woodruff is very simple. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and should only be watered in times of drought. Sweet woodruff care is just that easy.
Sweet Woodruff Propagation
Sweet woodruff is most often propagated by division. You can dig up clumps from an established patch and transplant them. Sweet woodruff can also be propagated by seed. Sweet woodruff seeds can be planted directly into the soil in the spring or can be started indoors up to 10 weeks before your area’s last frost date. To direct sow sweet woodruff, in early spring simply spread the seeds over the area that you wish to grow them and lightly cover the area with sifted soil or peat moss. Then water the area.
To start sweet woodruff indoors, spread the seeds evenly in the growing container and lightly cover the top with peat moss. Water the container and then place it into your refrigerator for two weeks. After you have chilled the sweet woodruff seeds, place them in a cool, lighted area (50 F. (10 C.), such as a basement or an unheated, attached garage to germinate. Once they have germinated, you can move the sweet woodruff seedlings to a warmer location.
How to Grow Sweet Woodruff Herb
Sweet woodruff herb should be planted in a shady area. They like moist but well draining soil that is rich in organic material from things like decomposing leaves and branches, but will also grow in dry soils. It grows in USDA Zones 4-8. Sweet woodruff spreads by runners. In moist soil, it can spread very quickly and can become invasive in the right conditions. It is often recommended that you plant sweet woodruff ground cover in an area that you would not mind seeing naturalized by sweet woodruff. You can also keep sweet woodruff under control by spade edging around the bed yearly. Spade edging is done by driving a spade into the soil on the edge of the flower bed where you are growing sweet woodruff. This will sever the runners. Remove any sweet woodruff plants growing outside the bed. After the plants are established, growing sweet woodruff is very simple. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and should only be watered in times of drought. Sweet woodruff care is just that easy.
Sweet Woodruff Propagation
Sweet woodruff is most often propagated by division. You can dig up clumps from an established patch and transplant them. Sweet woodruff can also be propagated by seed. Sweet woodruff seeds can be planted directly into the soil in the spring or can be started indoors up to 10 weeks before your area’s last frost date. To direct sow sweet woodruff, in early spring simply spread the seeds over the area that you wish to grow them and lightly cover the area with sifted soil or peat moss. Then water the area.
To start sweet woodruff indoors, spread the seeds evenly in the growing container and lightly cover the top with peat moss. Water the container and then place it into your refrigerator for two weeks. After you have chilled the sweet woodruff seeds, place them in a cool, lighted area (50 F. (10 C.), such as a basement or an unheated, attached garage to germinate. Once they have germinated, you can move the sweet woodruff seedlings to a warmer location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The pineapple sage plant is found in gardens to attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Salvia elegans is a perennial in USDA zones 8-11 and is often used as an annual in other places. The crushed plant leaves smell like pineapple, hence comes the common name of the pineapple sage plant. The easy care of pineapple sage is one more reason to have it in the garden.
Is Pineapple Sage Edible?
The fragrance may lead one to wonder is pineapple sage edible? Indeed it is. Leaves of the pineapple sage plant may be steeped for teas and the minty-tasting blossoms can be used as an attractive garnish for salads and deserts. Leaves are best used fresh. Pineapple sage flowers may also be used in jelly and jam concoctions, potpourri, and other uses limited only by the imagination. Pineapple sage has long been used as a medicinal herb with antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
How to Grow Pineapple Sage
Pineapple sage prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil that is consistently moist, although established plants will tolerate drought conditions. Pineapple sage is a semi-woody sub shrub that can get as tall as 4 feet with red flowers that bloom in late summer to early fall. Pineapple sage grows rapidly in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade. Those in more Northern zones may plant in a protected location, mulch in winter and experience perennial performance from the pineapple sage plant.
The tubular shaped flowers of the pineapple sage plant are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Include these in the butterfly garden or the herb garden or plant in other areas where fragrance is desired. Combine this plant in groupings, with other sages for a plethora of flying friends in the garden.
Is Pineapple Sage Edible?
The fragrance may lead one to wonder is pineapple sage edible? Indeed it is. Leaves of the pineapple sage plant may be steeped for teas and the minty-tasting blossoms can be used as an attractive garnish for salads and deserts. Leaves are best used fresh. Pineapple sage flowers may also be used in jelly and jam concoctions, potpourri, and other uses limited only by the imagination. Pineapple sage has long been used as a medicinal herb with antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
How to Grow Pineapple Sage
Pineapple sage prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil that is consistently moist, although established plants will tolerate drought conditions. Pineapple sage is a semi-woody sub shrub that can get as tall as 4 feet with red flowers that bloom in late summer to early fall. Pineapple sage grows rapidly in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade. Those in more Northern zones may plant in a protected location, mulch in winter and experience perennial performance from the pineapple sage plant.
The tubular shaped flowers of the pineapple sage plant are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Include these in the butterfly garden or the herb garden or plant in other areas where fragrance is desired. Combine this plant in groupings, with other sages for a plethora of flying friends in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Purslane herb is often considered to be a weed in many gardens, but if you get to know this fast-growing, succulent plant, you’ll discover that it is both edible and delicious. Growing purslane in the garden can be beneficial for your health and taste buds.
What is Purslane?
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an herb that is native to Asia, but has spread all across the world. It is commonly found in cleared areas. The purslane herb has red stems and fleshy, green leaves. The flowers are a bright yellow. Purslane is high in Omega-3 fatty acids and contains vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin B, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. All in all, edible purslane is a very healthy plant to add to your diet.
Growing Purslane
The hardest part about growing purslane is finding it. Once you have decided to grow purslane, you may find that although you have been pulling it out of your flower beds for years, it has suddenly disappeared. Once you do find a purslane plant, you can either harvest some seeds or trim off a few stems. All purslane needs to grow is part to full sun and clear ground. The plants aren’t picky about soil type or nutrition, but purslane does tend to grow better in drier soil. If you decide to plant purslane seeds, simply scatter the seeds over the area where you plan on growing the purslane. Don’t cover the seeds with soil. Purslane seeds need light to germinate so they must stay on the surface of the soil. If you are using purslane cuttings, lay them on the ground where you plan on growing purslane. Water the stems and they should take root in the soil in a few days.
Care of Purslane Plant
The care of purslane is very simple after it starts growing. You don’t need to do anything. The same traits that make it a weed also makes it an easy to care for herb. Make sure to harvest it regularly and be aware that it can become invasive. Harvesting before it develops flowers will help cut down on its spread. Also, keep in mind that purslane herb is an annual. While the chances are high that it will reseed itself, you may want to collect some seeds at the end of the season so that you have some on hand for next year, rather than hunting for a new purslane plant. If you decide to harvest wild purslane instead of growing purslane, make sure that you only harvest purslane that has not been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
What is Purslane?
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an herb that is native to Asia, but has spread all across the world. It is commonly found in cleared areas. The purslane herb has red stems and fleshy, green leaves. The flowers are a bright yellow. Purslane is high in Omega-3 fatty acids and contains vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin B, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. All in all, edible purslane is a very healthy plant to add to your diet.
Growing Purslane
The hardest part about growing purslane is finding it. Once you have decided to grow purslane, you may find that although you have been pulling it out of your flower beds for years, it has suddenly disappeared. Once you do find a purslane plant, you can either harvest some seeds or trim off a few stems. All purslane needs to grow is part to full sun and clear ground. The plants aren’t picky about soil type or nutrition, but purslane does tend to grow better in drier soil. If you decide to plant purslane seeds, simply scatter the seeds over the area where you plan on growing the purslane. Don’t cover the seeds with soil. Purslane seeds need light to germinate so they must stay on the surface of the soil. If you are using purslane cuttings, lay them on the ground where you plan on growing purslane. Water the stems and they should take root in the soil in a few days.
Care of Purslane Plant
The care of purslane is very simple after it starts growing. You don’t need to do anything. The same traits that make it a weed also makes it an easy to care for herb. Make sure to harvest it regularly and be aware that it can become invasive. Harvesting before it develops flowers will help cut down on its spread. Also, keep in mind that purslane herb is an annual. While the chances are high that it will reseed itself, you may want to collect some seeds at the end of the season so that you have some on hand for next year, rather than hunting for a new purslane plant. If you decide to harvest wild purslane instead of growing purslane, make sure that you only harvest purslane that has not been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Comfrey is more than just an herb found in cottage gardens and seasoning blends. This old fashioned herb has been used as both a medicinal plant and food crop for grazing animals and hogs. The large hairy leaves are an excellent source of the three macro-nutrients found in fertilizer. As such, it makes an excellent liquid fertilizer or composted tea to feed plants and help reduce insect pests. Making comfrey tea for plants is easy and requires no special skills or tools. Try comfrey fertilizer on your plants and see the benefits in your garden.
Comfrey as a Fertilizer
All plants need specific macro-nutrients for maximum growth, bloom and fruiting. These are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Much like humans, they also need micro-nutrients such as manganese and calcium. Comfrey has the three major nutrients plus high levels of calcium, which can be very beneficial if harvested and made into comfrey tea for plants. This nutrient-rich food is applied as a liquid soil drench or as a foliar spray. The composted leaves yield a rich deep greenish-brown liquid. The nitrogen content in comfrey fertilizer helps with green leafy growth. The phosphorus helps the plants remain vigorous and fight off disease and pest damage. Potassium is instrumental in flower and fruit production.
Comfrey Plant Food
Comfrey is a hardy perennial plant that grows quickly. The plant needs no special care and grows in partial shade to sun. Harvest the leaves and put them just halfway in a container. Wear long sleeves and gloves to protect your hands and arms from the prickly hairs on the leaves. Making comfrey tea will only take a few weeks. Weight the leaves with something heavy to hold them down and then fill the container with water. In about 20 days you can strain out the leaves and the deep brew is ready to add to your containers or spray on garden beds. Dilute the comfrey plant food with water by half before you apply to plants. Use the removed leaf debris as a side dressing along your vegetable plants. You can also try using comfrey as mulch or as a compost enhancer.
Comfrey Fertilizer and Mulch
The herb’s leaves are easy to use as mulch. Nature will take its course and soon complete the rotting process, allowing the nutrients to seep into the ground. Just spread the leaves around the edges of plant roots and then bury them with 2 inches of soil. You can also dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and bury chopped up leaves. Plant fruiting vegetable seeds on top but avoid leafy and root crops. Comfrey as a fertilizer has many forms, all of which are easy to use and make. The best thing about the plant is you can cut the leaves several times in a season for a constant supply of this nutrient-rich, useful herb.
Comfrey as a Fertilizer
All plants need specific macro-nutrients for maximum growth, bloom and fruiting. These are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Much like humans, they also need micro-nutrients such as manganese and calcium. Comfrey has the three major nutrients plus high levels of calcium, which can be very beneficial if harvested and made into comfrey tea for plants. This nutrient-rich food is applied as a liquid soil drench or as a foliar spray. The composted leaves yield a rich deep greenish-brown liquid. The nitrogen content in comfrey fertilizer helps with green leafy growth. The phosphorus helps the plants remain vigorous and fight off disease and pest damage. Potassium is instrumental in flower and fruit production.
Comfrey Plant Food
Comfrey is a hardy perennial plant that grows quickly. The plant needs no special care and grows in partial shade to sun. Harvest the leaves and put them just halfway in a container. Wear long sleeves and gloves to protect your hands and arms from the prickly hairs on the leaves. Making comfrey tea will only take a few weeks. Weight the leaves with something heavy to hold them down and then fill the container with water. In about 20 days you can strain out the leaves and the deep brew is ready to add to your containers or spray on garden beds. Dilute the comfrey plant food with water by half before you apply to plants. Use the removed leaf debris as a side dressing along your vegetable plants. You can also try using comfrey as mulch or as a compost enhancer.
Comfrey Fertilizer and Mulch
The herb’s leaves are easy to use as mulch. Nature will take its course and soon complete the rotting process, allowing the nutrients to seep into the ground. Just spread the leaves around the edges of plant roots and then bury them with 2 inches of soil. You can also dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and bury chopped up leaves. Plant fruiting vegetable seeds on top but avoid leafy and root crops. Comfrey as a fertilizer has many forms, all of which are easy to use and make. The best thing about the plant is you can cut the leaves several times in a season for a constant supply of this nutrient-rich, useful herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) make a wonderful addition to the herb garden. In gardens throughout France, the herb is almost obligatory since it is one of the ‘fines herbes’ traditionally combined with chervil, parsley and tarragon to flavor chicken, fish, vegetables, soups, omelets and salads. Chive seed planting is the most common method of propagation. So, how to grow chives from seed? Let’s find out.
Chive Seed Propagation
Chives are grown primarily for their culinary uses, but the herb may also be grown for its lovely, light purple flowers and flourishes in containers as well as in the garden proper. A member of the onion or Amaryllidaceae family along with garlic and leeks, chives are native to northern Europe, Greece and Italy. This hardy, drought tolerant perennial grows to between 8-20 inches high in clumps via underground bulbs. Chives have hollow, round leaves much like onions, although smaller. I propagate my chives by dividing my massive decade-old chive plant but growing chives from seed is the common method for starting this herb; unless you live next door to me, in which case, please, come get one!
“How To” Guide to Chive Seed Planting
Growing chives from seed is a simple process, as seed germinates easily, albeit slowly. Sow seed ½ inch deep in flats of peat-based soilless mix. Keep the flat consistently moist and in temps of between 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 C.). At four to six weeks and once all danger of frost has passed, the chive seedling can be transplanted outside. Planting chive seeds can also occur directly outside in the garden once the soil has warmed. Space plants 4-15 inches apart in rows 20 or more inches apart. As mentioned, propagation can be from chive seed, transplants or division. Divide the plants every two to three years, separating new plants into clumps of about five bulbs each.
When planting chive seeds, the soil should be rich, moist and high in organic matter with a soil pH of between 6 and 8. Prior to planting the seedlings, amend the soil with 4-6 inches of composted organic matter and apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all purpose fertilizer per square foot of planting area. Work this in down to 6-8 inches of soil. Chives thrive in full sun, but will do well in partial shade. Fertilize the plants a few times during the growing season with bone meal and manure or a well-balanced commercial fertilizer. Side dress with 10-15 pounds of nitrogen two times during the growing season and keep the herb consistently moist and the area weeded.
Chive Seed Propagation
Chives are grown primarily for their culinary uses, but the herb may also be grown for its lovely, light purple flowers and flourishes in containers as well as in the garden proper. A member of the onion or Amaryllidaceae family along with garlic and leeks, chives are native to northern Europe, Greece and Italy. This hardy, drought tolerant perennial grows to between 8-20 inches high in clumps via underground bulbs. Chives have hollow, round leaves much like onions, although smaller. I propagate my chives by dividing my massive decade-old chive plant but growing chives from seed is the common method for starting this herb; unless you live next door to me, in which case, please, come get one!
“How To” Guide to Chive Seed Planting
Growing chives from seed is a simple process, as seed germinates easily, albeit slowly. Sow seed ½ inch deep in flats of peat-based soilless mix. Keep the flat consistently moist and in temps of between 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 C.). At four to six weeks and once all danger of frost has passed, the chive seedling can be transplanted outside. Planting chive seeds can also occur directly outside in the garden once the soil has warmed. Space plants 4-15 inches apart in rows 20 or more inches apart. As mentioned, propagation can be from chive seed, transplants or division. Divide the plants every two to three years, separating new plants into clumps of about five bulbs each.
When planting chive seeds, the soil should be rich, moist and high in organic matter with a soil pH of between 6 and 8. Prior to planting the seedlings, amend the soil with 4-6 inches of composted organic matter and apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all purpose fertilizer per square foot of planting area. Work this in down to 6-8 inches of soil. Chives thrive in full sun, but will do well in partial shade. Fertilize the plants a few times during the growing season with bone meal and manure or a well-balanced commercial fertilizer. Side dress with 10-15 pounds of nitrogen two times during the growing season and keep the herb consistently moist and the area weeded.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping savory in gardens are compact, fragrant plants at home in herb gardens or along borders or pathways. These easy-to-grow herbs are also well suited for containers or window boxes where the trailing stems can cascade over the edges. At only 2 to 4 inches tall, creeping savory plants make ideal ground covers. This hardy little herb is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read to learn about growing creeping savory in your own garden.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
With dozens of uses in the kitchen, oregano is an essential plant for culinary herb gardens. This Mediterranean herb is easy to grow in the right location. Plant it in full sun in an area with good air circulation and well-drained soil to keep oregano problems to a minimum.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Plant enthusiasts are always on the look-out for an unusual and amazing specimen. Huernia zebrina, or Lifesaver plant, is one of the best in this category. Lifesaver cactus plants are easy to grow in small dish gardens or even bonsai containers. The biggest challenges with Huernia cactus care are overwatering, incorrect lighting and mealybugs. Let’s go through some guidelines on how to grow a Lifesaver cactus and, hopefully, get some of the blooms for which it is named.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache is a member of the mint family and has leaves very characteristic with that family. Many types of Agastache, or Hyssop, are native to North America, making them perfect for wild butterfly gardens and perennial beds. Agastache varieties may cross pollinate and produce specimens that do not mimic the parent plant. This can either be a fun occurrence or a nuisance if your preferred species is taken over by a cross.
Hyssop Plant Information
Agastache plants are known for their brightly colored blooms, which attract hummingbirds and butterflies. In fact, another name for the plant is hummingbird mint. All Agastache plant types produce bushy plants with colorful spikes of flowers. Hyssop flowers are also edible and a colorful way to brighten the kitchen garden.
These plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 5 and survive freezing winters with some mulch over the root zone quite well, provided soils drain freely. Many varieties of Hyssop can get up to 4 feet in height but most remain only 12 to 18 inches tall. Hummingbird mint has lance shaped, toothy leaves with a grayish green hue. Blooms may be peach, mauve, pink, white, lavender, and even orange. Flowers begin showing up in midsummer and can continue to produce until the first frost when the plant will die back.
Suggested Agastache Varieties
As with all plants, there are continuous new introductions to the cultivated world of Hyssop. Agastache repestris is also called licorice mint and grows 42 inches tall with coral flowers. Honey Bee White is a 4-foot wide bush that is one of the taller species, while similarly the big bush Anise Hyssop will achieve 4 feet in height with a similar width. Agastache plant types for the edges of perennial beds include the orange large-flowered Acapulco series, Agastache barberi, and orange-yellow blooming Coronado Hyssop, each of which only top out at 15 inches in height. Some other types of Agastache to try by their common cultivation names:
Blue Boa
Cotton Candy
Black Adder
Sumer Sky
Blue Fortune
The Kudos Series (Coral, Ambrosia and Mandarin)
Golden Jubilee
Visit your local nursery and see what forms they offer. Most regional garden centers will carry plants that will do well in that locale and can be relied upon to perform well.
Growing Different Varieties of Hyssop
Whether you are growing Sunset Hyssop or Korean Hyssop, the soil requirements are similar. Agastache is remarkably tolerant of poor soils. The plants thrive in neutral, alkaline or acidic soil and only require good drainage and full sun. Deadheading isn’t necessary but will enhance the appearance of your plant as it blooms all summer. Provide deep, frequent waterings and avoid letting the plant dry and wilt, as flower production will be interrupted. If you want to ensure that your plant is kept true, remove any volunteers as they appear since they may be crosses of another Agastache in the area and will not continue the desired traits. Agastache is an elegant plant, easy to care for and looks airy and colorful in drifts along a garden path or in the cottage garden. Don’t miss this low maintenance bloomer for outstanding excellence in your garden.
Hyssop Plant Information
Agastache plants are known for their brightly colored blooms, which attract hummingbirds and butterflies. In fact, another name for the plant is hummingbird mint. All Agastache plant types produce bushy plants with colorful spikes of flowers. Hyssop flowers are also edible and a colorful way to brighten the kitchen garden.
These plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 5 and survive freezing winters with some mulch over the root zone quite well, provided soils drain freely. Many varieties of Hyssop can get up to 4 feet in height but most remain only 12 to 18 inches tall. Hummingbird mint has lance shaped, toothy leaves with a grayish green hue. Blooms may be peach, mauve, pink, white, lavender, and even orange. Flowers begin showing up in midsummer and can continue to produce until the first frost when the plant will die back.
Suggested Agastache Varieties
As with all plants, there are continuous new introductions to the cultivated world of Hyssop. Agastache repestris is also called licorice mint and grows 42 inches tall with coral flowers. Honey Bee White is a 4-foot wide bush that is one of the taller species, while similarly the big bush Anise Hyssop will achieve 4 feet in height with a similar width. Agastache plant types for the edges of perennial beds include the orange large-flowered Acapulco series, Agastache barberi, and orange-yellow blooming Coronado Hyssop, each of which only top out at 15 inches in height. Some other types of Agastache to try by their common cultivation names:
Blue Boa
Cotton Candy
Black Adder
Sumer Sky
Blue Fortune
The Kudos Series (Coral, Ambrosia and Mandarin)
Golden Jubilee
Visit your local nursery and see what forms they offer. Most regional garden centers will carry plants that will do well in that locale and can be relied upon to perform well.
Growing Different Varieties of Hyssop
Whether you are growing Sunset Hyssop or Korean Hyssop, the soil requirements are similar. Agastache is remarkably tolerant of poor soils. The plants thrive in neutral, alkaline or acidic soil and only require good drainage and full sun. Deadheading isn’t necessary but will enhance the appearance of your plant as it blooms all summer. Provide deep, frequent waterings and avoid letting the plant dry and wilt, as flower production will be interrupted. If you want to ensure that your plant is kept true, remove any volunteers as they appear since they may be crosses of another Agastache in the area and will not continue the desired traits. Agastache is an elegant plant, easy to care for and looks airy and colorful in drifts along a garden path or in the cottage garden. Don’t miss this low maintenance bloomer for outstanding excellence in your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
The feverfew plant (Tanacetum parthenium) is actually a species of chrysanthemum that has been grown in herb and medicinal gardens for centuries. Read on to learn more about feverfew plants.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Sage, rosemary and thyme are perennial staples of most herb gardens, but don’t forget the annuals. A hardy annual, suited to all USDA hardiness zones, is borage. This self-seeding herb is easy to grow and if allowed to bloom and set seed will provide year upon year of edible blue blossoms as well as foliage. The question is, when and how to harvest borage?
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While usually an easy plant to grow in rock gardens and hot, dry areas, agave can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal rots if exposed to too much moisture and humidity. Cool, wet spring weather that rapidly changes to hot, humid summer can cause a surge in fungal growth and pest populations. Mid to late summer crown rot of agave plants can be common in cooler climates and potted plants. Read on to learn what you can do for agave plants with crown rot.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
It's always fun as well as very interesting to find growing in the wild a plant that we buy when back at home in order to have it in the gardens! Aubrieta is one of our favourites. It manages to bloom early, even in gardens in the UK, and this is because, in the wild, it grows high up in the mountains and is used to inhospitable conditions like the English spring, which punishes so many of the other early-flowering plants.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful muve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Etymology
Aubrieta, the genus name, honours the 17th century French artist Claude Aubriet, who had held the post of Royal Botanical Painter at the French Royal Garden.
The specific epithet deltoidea means triangular (shaped like a delta).
In the past the common name given to this flower was Aubretia, but nowadays Aubrieta, spelt exactly as in the genus name, is more commonly used.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful muve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Etymology
Aubrieta, the genus name, honours the 17th century French artist Claude Aubriet, who had held the post of Royal Botanical Painter at the French Royal Garden.
The specific epithet deltoidea means triangular (shaped like a delta).
In the past the common name given to this flower was Aubretia, but nowadays Aubrieta, spelt exactly as in the genus name, is more commonly used.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Flowering annuals bring bright colors to gardens and hanging baskets starting with the first blooms of spring through the summer and into autumn. However, many annual flowering plants need a little help to look their best and benefit from deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms and foliage. Impatiens generally don't require deadheading as they are a self-cleaning plant that naturally sheds spent blooms, according to North Carolina State University Extension. However, even impatiens can benefit from deadheading if the plant has become stressed and has lost the majority of its blooms at the same time.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
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