文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Bleeding heart has attractive mounded foliage with arching stems of delicate, heart-shaped flowers in spring. It thrives in moist woodland gardens along with ferns and other shade-lovers.
About bleeding hearts
Bleeding heart grows best in cool, moist conditions. Flower colors include yellow, pink, red, and white. It blooms in spring and may rebloom sporadically throughout the summer in cool areas. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet, depending on variety.
Choosing a site to grow bleeding hearts
Select a site with light to medium shade and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter.
Special features of bleeding hearts
Deer resistant
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line.
About bleeding hearts
Bleeding heart grows best in cool, moist conditions. Flower colors include yellow, pink, red, and white. It blooms in spring and may rebloom sporadically throughout the summer in cool areas. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet, depending on variety.
Choosing a site to grow bleeding hearts
Select a site with light to medium shade and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter.
Special features of bleeding hearts
Deer resistant
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Bee balm flowers are brilliant additions to late-summer herb gardens and flower borders. Butterflies, hummingbirds, bees, and other nectar-seeking creatures covet the tubular flowers on the plant's rounded flower heads, and the leaves and flowers can also be made into tea. Other common names include horsemint, wild bergamot, and Oswego tea.
About bee balms
Bee balm flower colors include pink, red, and white; new double-flowered forms are also available. The plant blooms from early to late summer and grows 2 to 4 feet tall, depending on the variety. Some bee balm species tolerate wet soil and will thrive along a waterway or in a bog garden. Bee balm is susceptible to powdery mildew disease, so select resistant varieties. Under favorable growing conditions the plant can become invasive.
Special features of bee balms
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Attracts hummingbirds
Attracts butterflies
Tolerates wet soil
Choosing a site to grow bee balms
Select a site with full sun to light shade and rich, well-drained soil. Some species tolerate wet soils, while others are adaptable to a wide range of soil moisture levels.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring or fall, spacing plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant's container. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole so the top of the rootball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the rootball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Remove spent flowers to keep plants looking tidy. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants in spring every few years or when you notice the center of the plant dying out.
About bee balms
Bee balm flower colors include pink, red, and white; new double-flowered forms are also available. The plant blooms from early to late summer and grows 2 to 4 feet tall, depending on the variety. Some bee balm species tolerate wet soil and will thrive along a waterway or in a bog garden. Bee balm is susceptible to powdery mildew disease, so select resistant varieties. Under favorable growing conditions the plant can become invasive.
Special features of bee balms
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Attracts hummingbirds
Attracts butterflies
Tolerates wet soil
Choosing a site to grow bee balms
Select a site with full sun to light shade and rich, well-drained soil. Some species tolerate wet soils, while others are adaptable to a wide range of soil moisture levels.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring or fall, spacing plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant's container. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole so the top of the rootball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the rootball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Remove spent flowers to keep plants looking tidy. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants in spring every few years or when you notice the center of the plant dying out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
Theese tough, dependable, long-lived perenniaal make an impressive statement in the garden, growing as much as 3 to 4 feet tall. The most common species found in gardens baptisia, also known as blue wild indigo, has spires of blue flowers in late spring and early summer and was used by early American colonists as a dye plant. But other species and hybrids bloom in a wide variety of colors.
About baptisias
Baptisias are native to the central and southeastern U.S. In spring and early summer, their clover-like foliage is topped by spires of pea-like blooms. Baptisias grow slowly at first, but after a few years forms an attractive, upright mound up to 4 feet across. A mass planting of baptisia in full bloom is a striking sight. Both the flowers and the seed pods are attractive in bouquets. Hardiness varies with species, but most grow well in Zones 5-8.
Choosing a site to grow baptisias
Baptisias do best in full sun and well-drained soil of average fertility. If planted in part shade they may need staking to prevent sprawling. Once established, they are reasonably drought tolerant.
Planting Instructions
Container plants can be set out any time during the growing season. Space most plants at least 3 feet apart. Mature plants can be 4 feet wide and resent disturbance, so give young plants plenty of space to grow into. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Baptisia forms a deep taproot, making it difficult to transplant, so choose the planting site carefully. Unlike many other perennials, baptisia clumps don't need dividing. Although it's possible to divide the deep, gnarly root mass, it's risky and you may end up damaging the plant so much that it can't recover. If you want more plants you can propagate them by seed or cuttings. Baptisias have few insect and disease problems and are usually ignored by deer.
About baptisias
Baptisias are native to the central and southeastern U.S. In spring and early summer, their clover-like foliage is topped by spires of pea-like blooms. Baptisias grow slowly at first, but after a few years forms an attractive, upright mound up to 4 feet across. A mass planting of baptisia in full bloom is a striking sight. Both the flowers and the seed pods are attractive in bouquets. Hardiness varies with species, but most grow well in Zones 5-8.
Choosing a site to grow baptisias
Baptisias do best in full sun and well-drained soil of average fertility. If planted in part shade they may need staking to prevent sprawling. Once established, they are reasonably drought tolerant.
Planting Instructions
Container plants can be set out any time during the growing season. Space most plants at least 3 feet apart. Mature plants can be 4 feet wide and resent disturbance, so give young plants plenty of space to grow into. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Baptisia forms a deep taproot, making it difficult to transplant, so choose the planting site carefully. Unlike many other perennials, baptisia clumps don't need dividing. Although it's possible to divide the deep, gnarly root mass, it's risky and you may end up damaging the plant so much that it can't recover. If you want more plants you can propagate them by seed or cuttings. Baptisias have few insect and disease problems and are usually ignored by deer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips have long been a popular selection for gardens and cut-flower arrangements. There are about 150 tulip species that come in dozens of colors and shades. With a little effort and know-how, even beginning gardeners will find tulips are easy to grow. Tulips are popular worldwide, with numerous festivals held each year in honor of the flower.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips grow and bloom in late winter and early spring, bringing bright color to otherwise sleepy gardens. These bulb plants are equally successful in pots, both in the house and in the garden. Potted tulips require the same planting times, placement and care as outdoor tulips if they're to bloom in spring, so buy some tulips bulbs in fall and get started.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Flower gardens can turn an ordinary area into a colorful showcase or create a border that pops. Whether you choose an easy to manage perennial or a particularly touchy annual, growing flowers is a rewarding addition to any yard or landscape.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
ONIONS, shallots and garlic are members of the allium family that belong in the vegetable garden. But there are many ornamental alliums that deserve a hearty welcome in your perennial gardens.
Alliums are plants of exquisite beauty in both flower and leaf, with tough constitutions. These easy-to-grow bulbs come in a broad palette of colors, heights, bloom times and flower forms. They make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried bouquets. Even crowded gardens can accommodate a few alliums because they don't take up much space. What's more, alliums are relatively resistant to deer, voles, chipmunks, and rabbits
Ordinary Onions They're Not
There are more than 700 different types of alliums in the world. It wasn't until the late 1800s that this vast group of plants started to intrigue plant lovers. Russian botanists began collecting some of the spectacular alliums from Central Asia and introducing them to avid horticulturists through the Imperial Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg. Of course, it didn't take long for the consummate plant hunters, the British, to get wind of this "new" family of garden-worthy plants. Their expeditions yielded many more interesting alliums varieties.
Hardy, Easy-Care, Deer- and Rodent-Resistant
Ornamental alliums are hardy to zone 4 and they have very undemanding cultural requirements. They will grow in most any soil, as long as it is well-drained. Alliums adore sunlight and will perform best when they can bask in it all day long. Since most of them multiply naturally, they can be left untouched in the same area for years.
Alliums are drought-tolerant plants that actually prefer to be grown on the dry side. There are no serious diseases or insect pests that bother them. And you won't ever have to worry about rodents or deer, since they seem to have no appreciation for the taste of onions — ornamental or otherwise.
Just remember, there's only one time of year you can plant alliums: in the fall. Daffodils, tulips and crocuses are easy to find at most garden centers, but alliums are not as readily available. To make sure you have the bulbs in hand when it's time to plant, the best thing to do is order them by mail. That way, they'll show up at your door at proper planting time, and there's no chance you'll have to live another year without these beautiful, long-lasting, bee-friendly flowers in your garden. Some ornamental alliums grow more like chives and what you plant is a clump of roots rather than bulbs. This type of allium is usually sold as a potted plant, and may be more available in spring than fall.
Favorite Alliums
There are dozens of varieties in cultivation; here are some of the best.
Purple Sensation: the 2″ to 4″ diameter purple globes bloom in early June, right after the late tulips. Purple Sensation's sturdy stems rise 24″ to 30″ high, so the flowers appear to float above the foliage of newly emerging perennials./p>
Globemaster and Gladiator: The tallest and most architectural alliums have huge, globe-shaped flowerheads on 3- to 4-foot stems. Bloom time is early to mid-June. A group of deep-purple Globemaster or Gladiator alliums is a real eye-catcher, especially when planted with white or pink peonies, delphiniums or tall bearded iris. The white-flowering Mount Everest is a bit shorter and looks sharp in front of shrubs with deep-green or burgundy foliage or rising out of a groundcover of periwinkle (Vinca minor).
Corkscrew allium: Drought-tolerant corkscrew allium (Allium senescens ssp. montanum var. glaucum) makes a good edging plant in the dry soil at the top of my stone retaining wall. Its blue-green leaves twist like loose corkscrews. Bloom time is late summer.
Ozawa allium (Allium thunbergii 'Ozawa'): A tidy, clump-forming plant that grows 18″ to 20″ high. Among the last of the perennials to bloom, its flowers often don't open until late September or October. Bees love it. Another late-bloomer that flowers in autumn. Its pink flowers pair well with coreopsis, gaillardia, solidago and other fall flowers.
Schubert allium (Allium schubertii): Quite dramatic, though only 8″ tall . Its foot-wide umbels look like an exploding pink fireworks display. Sure to elicit comments from garden visitors. Seed heads add interest for a month or more after blooms fade.
Alliums are plants of exquisite beauty in both flower and leaf, with tough constitutions. These easy-to-grow bulbs come in a broad palette of colors, heights, bloom times and flower forms. They make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried bouquets. Even crowded gardens can accommodate a few alliums because they don't take up much space. What's more, alliums are relatively resistant to deer, voles, chipmunks, and rabbits
Ordinary Onions They're Not
There are more than 700 different types of alliums in the world. It wasn't until the late 1800s that this vast group of plants started to intrigue plant lovers. Russian botanists began collecting some of the spectacular alliums from Central Asia and introducing them to avid horticulturists through the Imperial Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg. Of course, it didn't take long for the consummate plant hunters, the British, to get wind of this "new" family of garden-worthy plants. Their expeditions yielded many more interesting alliums varieties.
Hardy, Easy-Care, Deer- and Rodent-Resistant
Ornamental alliums are hardy to zone 4 and they have very undemanding cultural requirements. They will grow in most any soil, as long as it is well-drained. Alliums adore sunlight and will perform best when they can bask in it all day long. Since most of them multiply naturally, they can be left untouched in the same area for years.
Alliums are drought-tolerant plants that actually prefer to be grown on the dry side. There are no serious diseases or insect pests that bother them. And you won't ever have to worry about rodents or deer, since they seem to have no appreciation for the taste of onions — ornamental or otherwise.
Just remember, there's only one time of year you can plant alliums: in the fall. Daffodils, tulips and crocuses are easy to find at most garden centers, but alliums are not as readily available. To make sure you have the bulbs in hand when it's time to plant, the best thing to do is order them by mail. That way, they'll show up at your door at proper planting time, and there's no chance you'll have to live another year without these beautiful, long-lasting, bee-friendly flowers in your garden. Some ornamental alliums grow more like chives and what you plant is a clump of roots rather than bulbs. This type of allium is usually sold as a potted plant, and may be more available in spring than fall.
Favorite Alliums
There are dozens of varieties in cultivation; here are some of the best.
Purple Sensation: the 2″ to 4″ diameter purple globes bloom in early June, right after the late tulips. Purple Sensation's sturdy stems rise 24″ to 30″ high, so the flowers appear to float above the foliage of newly emerging perennials./p>
Globemaster and Gladiator: The tallest and most architectural alliums have huge, globe-shaped flowerheads on 3- to 4-foot stems. Bloom time is early to mid-June. A group of deep-purple Globemaster or Gladiator alliums is a real eye-catcher, especially when planted with white or pink peonies, delphiniums or tall bearded iris. The white-flowering Mount Everest is a bit shorter and looks sharp in front of shrubs with deep-green or burgundy foliage or rising out of a groundcover of periwinkle (Vinca minor).
Corkscrew allium: Drought-tolerant corkscrew allium (Allium senescens ssp. montanum var. glaucum) makes a good edging plant in the dry soil at the top of my stone retaining wall. Its blue-green leaves twist like loose corkscrews. Bloom time is late summer.
Ozawa allium (Allium thunbergii 'Ozawa'): A tidy, clump-forming plant that grows 18″ to 20″ high. Among the last of the perennials to bloom, its flowers often don't open until late September or October. Bees love it. Another late-bloomer that flowers in autumn. Its pink flowers pair well with coreopsis, gaillardia, solidago and other fall flowers.
Schubert allium (Allium schubertii): Quite dramatic, though only 8″ tall . Its foot-wide umbels look like an exploding pink fireworks display. Sure to elicit comments from garden visitors. Seed heads add interest for a month or more after blooms fade.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
ACCORDING to the Gallup Gardening Survey, less than half of the country's home gardeners use any kind of fertilizer on their lawns or gardens. What's unfortunate about this statistic is that it means gardeners aren't getting as many flowers or as much produce as they should. And they're probably struggling with disease and insect problems that could be avoided.
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
The beauty of flower color hides an extraordinarily complex process of pigmentation and light reflection. Flower color draws pollinators and allows us to create captivating gardens full of vibrancy and flair. However, sometimes we experience fading flower color. Something happens that causes the once vibrant color of a flower to dampen. Although this may seem rather perplexing at first, there are many reasons for a flower losing color.
Why are My Flowers Fading?
You may be asking “why are my flowers fading?” Some flowers are acutely sensitive to heat and extreme sun. Too much exposure to sun or heat drains the flowers of their bright colors. Many flowers prefer morning sun and filtered afternoon light.
Other causes of faded flower color include the fact that flowers generally fade after pollination. Once pollinated, flowers no longer need to attract their pollinating suitors and, thus, begin to fade.
Flowers may also change colors or fade when they are stressed. This can happen if a plant has just been transplanted. Give the plant some time to adapt to its new location before becoming overly anxious. Some bulbous plants, such as daffodil and gladiolus, tend to fade with age. This is one reason why gardeners will dig up old bulbs and replace them with new ones. Finally, soil acidity may be responsible for altering or fading flower color. A popular example of this phenomenon occurs with hydrangeas that seem to be particularly sensitive to the amount of acid in the soil.
How to Fix Color Fading in Flowers
Paying particular attention to the growing requirements of flowers will help keep their colors from fading. Move plants that appear to be planted in a spot where they are unhappy. Many times fading is normal and is part of the natural progression of a plant. Although science cannot always explain why flower color fades, it is clear that flowers, like humans, have a lifespan and often as they near the end of their lifespan they tend to produce less vibrant blooms than they did at the beginning of their life.
If you experience flower fading and your plant is not stressed, just accept it as part of evolution of your garden and don’t try to fix something that really is not broken.
Why are My Flowers Fading?
You may be asking “why are my flowers fading?” Some flowers are acutely sensitive to heat and extreme sun. Too much exposure to sun or heat drains the flowers of their bright colors. Many flowers prefer morning sun and filtered afternoon light.
Other causes of faded flower color include the fact that flowers generally fade after pollination. Once pollinated, flowers no longer need to attract their pollinating suitors and, thus, begin to fade.
Flowers may also change colors or fade when they are stressed. This can happen if a plant has just been transplanted. Give the plant some time to adapt to its new location before becoming overly anxious. Some bulbous plants, such as daffodil and gladiolus, tend to fade with age. This is one reason why gardeners will dig up old bulbs and replace them with new ones. Finally, soil acidity may be responsible for altering or fading flower color. A popular example of this phenomenon occurs with hydrangeas that seem to be particularly sensitive to the amount of acid in the soil.
How to Fix Color Fading in Flowers
Paying particular attention to the growing requirements of flowers will help keep their colors from fading. Move plants that appear to be planted in a spot where they are unhappy. Many times fading is normal and is part of the natural progression of a plant. Although science cannot always explain why flower color fades, it is clear that flowers, like humans, have a lifespan and often as they near the end of their lifespan they tend to produce less vibrant blooms than they did at the beginning of their life.
If you experience flower fading and your plant is not stressed, just accept it as part of evolution of your garden and don’t try to fix something that really is not broken.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Savvy gardeners are always on the watch for important plant infections in their gardens. One area that many neglect, however, are parasitic plants. If a plant is growing on or near another, it’s generally assumed they’re simply compatible, and not that one is drawing vital nutrients from the other. Learn more about holoparasitic plants in this article so you can better distinguish plant friend from foe.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kiwi Aeonium (Aeonium ‘Kiwi’) adds year-round color and texture to gardens with its colorful foliage, which has shades of chartreuse, cream and red. It grows U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it grows equally well in containers and low-water landscaping beds. Kiwi Aeonium propagates best by vegetative methods, but they will also grow from seed. Seed-grown plants sometimes differ in appearance because they’re hybrids.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Summer can be an ideal season in many of our gardens. However, even the hardiest, drought tolerant plants – including succulents – will benefit greatly from a small amount of added care in the hot days ahead.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Are you dreaming about adding some window boxes to your home, but lack the time and patience to pamper persnickety flowers? In the last few years, succulents of every shape and size have made their way into gardens and homes across the country, with a few setting roots in window boxes on the shady sides of homes. If you’re looking for a low-care option for your window boxes, succulents may be the answer. These plants offer interesting textures for your inner designer to mix into endless combinations and the occasional flower stalks for an unexpected splash of color.
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Even though petite, glass-enclosed gardens are fashionable, succulents don’t grow well in terrariums. Terrariums can become too humid for succulents. When these plants are exposed to too much moisture, they can become mushy and die. Below are some tips for making the most of a terrarium garden.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
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