文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月21日
The cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has earned its reputation as a hard-to-kill houseplant, along with being a beautiful outdoor foliage plant within its growing zones. This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. It has arching, lance-shaped, deep green, glossy leaves that can reach around 2 feet long and 4 inches wide. When grown outdoors, it sometimes produces insignificant cream and purple flowers near the base of the plant, but the blossoms usually do not appear when the plant is grown indoors. The cast-iron plant has a fairly slow growth rate, and spring is generally the best time to plant it.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月27日
The asparagus fern isn’t exactly a common houseplant, but with its feathery, light foliage, it's quite attractive and can be successfully grown indoors. In warmer regions, the fern can be easily adapted to outdoor culture, where it sometimes grows like a creeper and can even become invasive. Indoors, the key to a robust asparagus fern is to keep the plant bushy and dense so its lace-like foliage forms an attractive mound.
Asparagus fern is a fern in name and appearance only. It actually belongs to the family Liliaceae and is a relative of lilies, including tulips, daylilies, amaryillis, and hostas. Asparagus fern has a lot of good qualities, but it comes with some important cautions. In warm, humid climates, asparagus ferns can spread rapidly when planted outdoors. It is considered an invasive species in Florida, Texas, and Hawaii. Asparagus fern is also toxic to children and pets1.
Botanical Name Asparagus aethiopicus
Common Name Asparagus fern
Plant Type Annual, houseplant
Mature Size Up to 2 feet high and 6 feet long
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors); part sun (outdoors)
Soil Type Well-drained potting soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 6.8
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White; flowers are insignificant
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Toxic for dogs and cats
Asparagus Fern Care
If you live in planting zones 9 or above, you can grow asparagus fern outdoors as a perennial. In all other zones, it can be planted as an annual or kept indoors as a houseplant. It's also popular as an outdoor container plant, where it is often used as a spiller. You can bring the container inside when the weather turns cold.
Asparagus fern's “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so take caution while trimming older specimens, and wear gardening gloves if you plan to prune an older plant. When asparagus fern is content in its location, it can produce small flowers and berries. You can plant these berries to propagate the fern.
Asparagus fern is fairly trouble-free, but indoors it may suffer from the same maladies common to most houseplants, especially mites and aphids.2 Insecticidal soap is usually effective.
Light
The asparagus fern thrives in dappled shade, although it can be acclimated to more light. Keep it out of direct, bright sunlight.
Soil
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Water
Keeping an asparagus fern hydrated takes a little effort, and this plant thrives on humidity. Indoor growing conditions can often be dry, especially due to winter heat. Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water. While the asparagus fern can dry out to the point of appearing dead, it likely isn't. Warmer, humid air and daily misting will help revive it. Outdoors, keep asparagus fern well watered to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Try to maintain a warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and not dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for too long. If you have a shady porch outside, or a greenhouse, the indoor plants will likely respond with abundant growth over the summer.
Fertilizer
Feed asparagus fern with liquid or water-soluble all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength. During summer, the plant may need weekly feedings; otherwise, feed monthly.
Asparagus Fern Varieties
Asparagus setaceus: Lacy foliage often used in flower arrangements; can grow to 10 feet in height if trained
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myeri': Also called foxtail asparagus; dense foliage on upright stems
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri': Popular as a hanging plant, with long dropping stems and a full, almost fluffy form
Pruning
Asparagus ferns are fast growers, and you may want to trim yours to keep it tidy. Conversely, it's okay if you want it to look wild and shaggy. Use clean garden shears or sharp scissors to give your plant shape.
Propagating Asparagus Fern
While this plant can be propagated by planting the seeds found in the berries, the easier and faster way is to dig up and divide the tuberous roots. In spring, dig up the entire plant and divide it into sections, each with a portion of root and growing shoots. Replant the pieces into individual pots or their own garden locations. It is best to keep the plant shaded until new growth begins.
How to Grow Asparagus Fern From Seed
Asparagus fern seeds come from their berries. Before planting, soak seeds overnight. Then, create starters by planting them 1/4" deep in pots or trays, indoors. Soil temperature should be at 70–80 degrees, Fahrenheit. Germination should take 4–8 weeks.
Potting and Repotting Asparagus Fern
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Asparagus ferns don't mind being slightly pot-bound, and can go up to two years before repotting. For the most successful repotting, divide the plant into big clumps, and be sure to take multiple underground roots when dividing. Place the divided plants into similar-sized pots to retain the tight growth habit. Asparagus ferns do not need large pots, as they are slow indoor spreaders.
Overwintering
If your outdoor temps dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, bring your asparagus ferns inside (if they're not already there). Keep them in bright light, away from drafts and radiators. Do not overwater, this can cause root problems.
Common Pests or Diseases
Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs like to hang out in this plant's leaves, get rid of them with insecticidal soap. Overly wet conditions can cause root-rot.
Asparagus fern is a fern in name and appearance only. It actually belongs to the family Liliaceae and is a relative of lilies, including tulips, daylilies, amaryillis, and hostas. Asparagus fern has a lot of good qualities, but it comes with some important cautions. In warm, humid climates, asparagus ferns can spread rapidly when planted outdoors. It is considered an invasive species in Florida, Texas, and Hawaii. Asparagus fern is also toxic to children and pets1.
Botanical Name Asparagus aethiopicus
Common Name Asparagus fern
Plant Type Annual, houseplant
Mature Size Up to 2 feet high and 6 feet long
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors); part sun (outdoors)
Soil Type Well-drained potting soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 6.8
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White; flowers are insignificant
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Toxic for dogs and cats
Asparagus Fern Care
If you live in planting zones 9 or above, you can grow asparagus fern outdoors as a perennial. In all other zones, it can be planted as an annual or kept indoors as a houseplant. It's also popular as an outdoor container plant, where it is often used as a spiller. You can bring the container inside when the weather turns cold.
Asparagus fern's “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so take caution while trimming older specimens, and wear gardening gloves if you plan to prune an older plant. When asparagus fern is content in its location, it can produce small flowers and berries. You can plant these berries to propagate the fern.
Asparagus fern is fairly trouble-free, but indoors it may suffer from the same maladies common to most houseplants, especially mites and aphids.2 Insecticidal soap is usually effective.
Light
The asparagus fern thrives in dappled shade, although it can be acclimated to more light. Keep it out of direct, bright sunlight.
Soil
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Water
Keeping an asparagus fern hydrated takes a little effort, and this plant thrives on humidity. Indoor growing conditions can often be dry, especially due to winter heat. Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water. While the asparagus fern can dry out to the point of appearing dead, it likely isn't. Warmer, humid air and daily misting will help revive it. Outdoors, keep asparagus fern well watered to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Try to maintain a warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and not dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for too long. If you have a shady porch outside, or a greenhouse, the indoor plants will likely respond with abundant growth over the summer.
Fertilizer
Feed asparagus fern with liquid or water-soluble all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength. During summer, the plant may need weekly feedings; otherwise, feed monthly.
Asparagus Fern Varieties
Asparagus setaceus: Lacy foliage often used in flower arrangements; can grow to 10 feet in height if trained
Asparagus densiflorus 'Myeri': Also called foxtail asparagus; dense foliage on upright stems
Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri': Popular as a hanging plant, with long dropping stems and a full, almost fluffy form
Pruning
Asparagus ferns are fast growers, and you may want to trim yours to keep it tidy. Conversely, it's okay if you want it to look wild and shaggy. Use clean garden shears or sharp scissors to give your plant shape.
Propagating Asparagus Fern
While this plant can be propagated by planting the seeds found in the berries, the easier and faster way is to dig up and divide the tuberous roots. In spring, dig up the entire plant and divide it into sections, each with a portion of root and growing shoots. Replant the pieces into individual pots or their own garden locations. It is best to keep the plant shaded until new growth begins.
How to Grow Asparagus Fern From Seed
Asparagus fern seeds come from their berries. Before planting, soak seeds overnight. Then, create starters by planting them 1/4" deep in pots or trays, indoors. Soil temperature should be at 70–80 degrees, Fahrenheit. Germination should take 4–8 weeks.
Potting and Repotting Asparagus Fern
Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions.
Asparagus ferns don't mind being slightly pot-bound, and can go up to two years before repotting. For the most successful repotting, divide the plant into big clumps, and be sure to take multiple underground roots when dividing. Place the divided plants into similar-sized pots to retain the tight growth habit. Asparagus ferns do not need large pots, as they are slow indoor spreaders.
Overwintering
If your outdoor temps dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, bring your asparagus ferns inside (if they're not already there). Keep them in bright light, away from drafts and radiators. Do not overwater, this can cause root problems.
Common Pests or Diseases
Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs like to hang out in this plant's leaves, get rid of them with insecticidal soap. Overly wet conditions can cause root-rot.
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文章
莹723
2021年02月07日
With spring around the corner, February is the ideal time to prepare your allotment for some of the earliest outdoor sowings in March. There are also tasty harvests of winter salads like mizuna, rocket and kale to be had.
As well as the jobs listed below, there are plenty of indoor sowings you can start now, before transferring to the allotment later in the year. This includes sowing tomatoes, globe artichokes and sprouting broccoli in a propagator, while Brussels sprouts, leeks, onions and spinach can all be sown under cover.
Discover seven allotment jobs for February, below.
1.Harvest the last kale leaves
Kale leaves are delicious and nutritious, and whichever type you’re growing, from the purple ‘Redbor’ to the Italian ‘Cavolo Nero’, all are winter-hardy. In February, new side shoots appear which can be cropped for a few weeks before the plant runs to seed.
2.Pick mizuna and sow more
Mizuna, rocket and winter lettuce plants sown last autumn should now be ready to harvest, providing fresh green leaves for meals. Don’t worry if you haven’t grown any of these, as you can sow all three in the greenhouse in February where they’ll respond well to conditions of low light and cool weather.
3.Prepare beds for sowing
Preparing beds before sowing begins in spring is one of the most important February allotment jobs. In doing so, you’ll help to aerate, drain and warm the soil. When digging over, be sure to incorporate plenty of homemade compost or composted manure. Alternatively, give beds a dressing of organic matter, then cover in plastic for a few weeks to reduce weeds and warm the soil.
4.Clean and set up cloches
Now’s the time to get cloches ready to warm the soil for early sowings, and provide protection for seedlings and young plants. Clean the sides with a scourer and warm soapy water, before rinsing off. For early crops, prepare and rake level the soil, before putting the cloche in place a few weeks before sowing.
5.Plant rhubarb
For tasty harvests of rhubarb, choose a bright, open position and prepare the soil by digging deeply and incorprating plenty of rich, homemade compost. Plant the crowns so that the buds are level with the soil surface, so make sure your the hole is big enough to allow this. Firm in and water well. Let plants establish for two years before harvesting.
6.Prune autumn raspberries
By pruning away the old canes of autumn-fruiting raspberries now, you’ll give the new shoots plenty of time to grow and strengthen, to hold the fruit crop. Prune old canes hard back to the ground, to avoid damaging the new shoots that’ll emerge between them. You can also plant new canes now.
7.Sow broad beans undercover
Broad beans are easy to sow under cover, and will provide a rewarding harvest in late spring. Sow indoors now in deep pots or modules, before placing in a cool, frost-free location, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.
As well as the jobs listed below, there are plenty of indoor sowings you can start now, before transferring to the allotment later in the year. This includes sowing tomatoes, globe artichokes and sprouting broccoli in a propagator, while Brussels sprouts, leeks, onions and spinach can all be sown under cover.
Discover seven allotment jobs for February, below.
1.Harvest the last kale leaves
Kale leaves are delicious and nutritious, and whichever type you’re growing, from the purple ‘Redbor’ to the Italian ‘Cavolo Nero’, all are winter-hardy. In February, new side shoots appear which can be cropped for a few weeks before the plant runs to seed.
2.Pick mizuna and sow more
Mizuna, rocket and winter lettuce plants sown last autumn should now be ready to harvest, providing fresh green leaves for meals. Don’t worry if you haven’t grown any of these, as you can sow all three in the greenhouse in February where they’ll respond well to conditions of low light and cool weather.
3.Prepare beds for sowing
Preparing beds before sowing begins in spring is one of the most important February allotment jobs. In doing so, you’ll help to aerate, drain and warm the soil. When digging over, be sure to incorporate plenty of homemade compost or composted manure. Alternatively, give beds a dressing of organic matter, then cover in plastic for a few weeks to reduce weeds and warm the soil.
4.Clean and set up cloches
Now’s the time to get cloches ready to warm the soil for early sowings, and provide protection for seedlings and young plants. Clean the sides with a scourer and warm soapy water, before rinsing off. For early crops, prepare and rake level the soil, before putting the cloche in place a few weeks before sowing.
5.Plant rhubarb
For tasty harvests of rhubarb, choose a bright, open position and prepare the soil by digging deeply and incorprating plenty of rich, homemade compost. Plant the crowns so that the buds are level with the soil surface, so make sure your the hole is big enough to allow this. Firm in and water well. Let plants establish for two years before harvesting.
6.Prune autumn raspberries
By pruning away the old canes of autumn-fruiting raspberries now, you’ll give the new shoots plenty of time to grow and strengthen, to hold the fruit crop. Prune old canes hard back to the ground, to avoid damaging the new shoots that’ll emerge between them. You can also plant new canes now.
7.Sow broad beans undercover
Broad beans are easy to sow under cover, and will provide a rewarding harvest in late spring. Sow indoors now in deep pots or modules, before placing in a cool, frost-free location, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
"Orange Star" plant (Guzmania lingulata "Orange Star") earned its common name with its showy orange flower bracts, which have a bold, starry shape. It grows best indoors, but will survive in a sheltered outdoor spot in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a to 11. "Orange Star" plant needs little care once established in a warm, bright location. Regular care year-round will help enhance its appearance and keep it healthy.
Moisture Needs
"Orange Star" plant requires consistent soil moisture year-round, but the amount and frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer, water whenever the container's medium feels dry to the touch or the outdoor soil is dry. Watering once per week is usually sufficient. In winter, let the medium dry out completely to prevent root problems. Watering an "Orange Star" plant is simple: fill the empty space at the center of its foliage whorl with water until it trickles down the sides of the plant onto the medium. During hot or dry weather, it is best to keep a small amount of water in the center of the plant to maintain adequate humidity around the leaves. In winter or during cooler weather, let the water evaporate completely before adding more.
Fertilizer Advice
As with most bromeliads, an "Orange Star" plant needs little supplemental fertilizer to perform well. Light feeding during the summer will help encourage the production of pups, or offshoots, which means you'll have new plants to replace the original one. Feed the plant with half strength fertilizer from spring until late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 20-20-20 or 7-7-7. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Replace one watering every six to eight weeks with the fertilizer solution, filling the foliage cup at the center of the plant. If the "Orange Star" plant produces lanky, discolored leaves or other signs of overfeeding, stop feeding for the remainder of the growing season.
Pest and Disease Problems
Even under the best growing conditions, an "Orange Star" plant sometimes suffers from infestations of scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. If you only see a few, wipe the bugs off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the plant has a lot of pests, you'll need to use a chemical. One safe and relatively nontoxic means of killing pests is a 2 percent insecticidal soap solution. Mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Saturate the foliage and flower bract with the solution, paying special attention to areas where the leaves overlap. Repeat the application every five days until the pests are gone. Although insecticidal soap is not harmful to people, it is best to wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your nose, mouth and eyes when you use it.
Whether grown in containers or outdoors in the ground in frost-free locations, root rot is a problem for "Orange Star" plants grown in conditions that are too wet. Use a well draining mix, when growing the plants inside containers. Outdoors, the plant does not perform well in clay soils, which retains too much water leading to root rot. To keep rot from developing, grow "Orange Star" in soils that drain well. If needed, amend the planting site with 2 to 3 inches of compost to increase drainage and do not keep the site overly saturated with water.
Winter Care Tips
Winter is a difficult time for an "Orange Star" plant. Dry air and low temperatures make striking the correct indoor moisture balance around the plant difficult, and it may develop serious root issues or damaged foliage. To ensure its health during the winter, water sparingly and maintain humidity above 50 percent by placing the plant on a shallow, pebble-lined tray filled with water. The water shouldn't touch the bottom of the pot, it should only cover the pebbles halfway. As it evaporates, it will help increase the humidity around the "Orange Star" plant without making the soil wet. Also, move an indoor "Orange Star" plant away from heat vents to keep it from drying out.
To prevent winter damage, move outdoor containers to an indoor location before temperatures drop to freezing. If temperatures are expected to drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, remove any standing water in the cups of "Orange Star" plants grown outdoors to prevent winter damage. Protect outdoor plants by covering them with blankets, if an unexpected freeze occurs.
Moisture Needs
"Orange Star" plant requires consistent soil moisture year-round, but the amount and frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer, water whenever the container's medium feels dry to the touch or the outdoor soil is dry. Watering once per week is usually sufficient. In winter, let the medium dry out completely to prevent root problems. Watering an "Orange Star" plant is simple: fill the empty space at the center of its foliage whorl with water until it trickles down the sides of the plant onto the medium. During hot or dry weather, it is best to keep a small amount of water in the center of the plant to maintain adequate humidity around the leaves. In winter or during cooler weather, let the water evaporate completely before adding more.
Fertilizer Advice
As with most bromeliads, an "Orange Star" plant needs little supplemental fertilizer to perform well. Light feeding during the summer will help encourage the production of pups, or offshoots, which means you'll have new plants to replace the original one. Feed the plant with half strength fertilizer from spring until late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 20-20-20 or 7-7-7. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Replace one watering every six to eight weeks with the fertilizer solution, filling the foliage cup at the center of the plant. If the "Orange Star" plant produces lanky, discolored leaves or other signs of overfeeding, stop feeding for the remainder of the growing season.
Pest and Disease Problems
Even under the best growing conditions, an "Orange Star" plant sometimes suffers from infestations of scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. If you only see a few, wipe the bugs off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the plant has a lot of pests, you'll need to use a chemical. One safe and relatively nontoxic means of killing pests is a 2 percent insecticidal soap solution. Mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Saturate the foliage and flower bract with the solution, paying special attention to areas where the leaves overlap. Repeat the application every five days until the pests are gone. Although insecticidal soap is not harmful to people, it is best to wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your nose, mouth and eyes when you use it.
Whether grown in containers or outdoors in the ground in frost-free locations, root rot is a problem for "Orange Star" plants grown in conditions that are too wet. Use a well draining mix, when growing the plants inside containers. Outdoors, the plant does not perform well in clay soils, which retains too much water leading to root rot. To keep rot from developing, grow "Orange Star" in soils that drain well. If needed, amend the planting site with 2 to 3 inches of compost to increase drainage and do not keep the site overly saturated with water.
Winter Care Tips
Winter is a difficult time for an "Orange Star" plant. Dry air and low temperatures make striking the correct indoor moisture balance around the plant difficult, and it may develop serious root issues or damaged foliage. To ensure its health during the winter, water sparingly and maintain humidity above 50 percent by placing the plant on a shallow, pebble-lined tray filled with water. The water shouldn't touch the bottom of the pot, it should only cover the pebbles halfway. As it evaporates, it will help increase the humidity around the "Orange Star" plant without making the soil wet. Also, move an indoor "Orange Star" plant away from heat vents to keep it from drying out.
To prevent winter damage, move outdoor containers to an indoor location before temperatures drop to freezing. If temperatures are expected to drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, remove any standing water in the cups of "Orange Star" plants grown outdoors to prevent winter damage. Protect outdoor plants by covering them with blankets, if an unexpected freeze occurs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
In temperate areas of the U.S., Spanish moss, also known as Tillandsia usneoide, can be grown outdoor on oak and cypress trees without fear of losing it to killing freezes. Northerners can enjoy it, too, since this tough and determined plant will resurrect when sustained temperatures rise above about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Whether you're pulling Spanish moss from your own tree to propagate it elsewhere or receiving it as an ordered product, Tillandsia usneoides transplants readily and easily. This unusual, decorative epiphyte is adaptable, durable, undemanding and care- and maintenance-free once established. You'll soon have wispy festoons of Spanish moss waving gently in soft summer breezes.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
No matter where you live, you can quickly bring a taste of the tropics to your indoor or outdoor garden by growing bird of paradise. Known botanically as Strelitzia reginae, this colorful, eye-catching plant lights up any garden.
Bird of Paradise Features
Showy bird of paradise flowers consist of orange, blue and white, which form to resemble an exotic bird's beak. There's also a variety that has all white flowers. Each bird of paradise flower can last up to two weeks on or off the plant. The plant's foliage is also dramatic. The large, green, textural leaves make a statement even when the plant isn't blooming.
Bird of Paradise History
Native to South Africa, bird of paradise is widely cultivated throughout South America today. The plant got its botanical name when it was introduced to England in 1773 by Sir Joseph Banks, who ran Kew Gardens at the time. He named the plant Strelitzia after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. She lived at Kew Gardens for several years.
Where to Grow Bird of Paradise
Bird of paradise makes an excellent accent in the landscape. Use the plant around pools and spas to add a tropical feel or put bird of paradise in a pot and display it as a focal point. When grown in containers, bird of paradise can be displayed on patios, balconies and decks.
Bird of paradise requires full sun outdoors to thrive. The plant is frost sensitive, so it can only be grown outdoors year-round in frost-free climates, such as zones 9 through 12. If you wish to grow bird of paradise outdoors in other zones, do so in the spring and summer when night temperatures are 60 degrees and above. Grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors when nighttime temperatures drop in fall.
Bird of Paradise Grown as a Houseplant
Bird of paradise does well when grown indoors as a houseplant, as such a warm environment is ideal. The plant requires a bright, sunny location, such as in front of an eastern or southern window. Bird of paradise also does well when grown under full-spectrum lighting.
Bird of Paradise Care and Maintenance
With consistent care, bird of paradise can thrive. Though the plant is drought tolerant once established, it grows best when you keep the soil moist but not soggy. This will generally require that you water the plant once a week when grown in the ground. Container-grown plants will require more frequent watering, especially when temperatures are high.
Fertilize bird of paradise once in spring and again in summer with an all-purpose fertilizer designed for flowering plants. Always follow the package directions on the fertilizer, as too much can burn plant roots and damage the plant.
Bird of paradise is a self-cleaning plant that tends to shed its own leaves when necessary. That means it rarely needs pruning. When you do prune, remove dead foliage and spent flower stalks.
Bird of Paradise Features
Showy bird of paradise flowers consist of orange, blue and white, which form to resemble an exotic bird's beak. There's also a variety that has all white flowers. Each bird of paradise flower can last up to two weeks on or off the plant. The plant's foliage is also dramatic. The large, green, textural leaves make a statement even when the plant isn't blooming.
Bird of Paradise History
Native to South Africa, bird of paradise is widely cultivated throughout South America today. The plant got its botanical name when it was introduced to England in 1773 by Sir Joseph Banks, who ran Kew Gardens at the time. He named the plant Strelitzia after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. She lived at Kew Gardens for several years.
Where to Grow Bird of Paradise
Bird of paradise makes an excellent accent in the landscape. Use the plant around pools and spas to add a tropical feel or put bird of paradise in a pot and display it as a focal point. When grown in containers, bird of paradise can be displayed on patios, balconies and decks.
Bird of paradise requires full sun outdoors to thrive. The plant is frost sensitive, so it can only be grown outdoors year-round in frost-free climates, such as zones 9 through 12. If you wish to grow bird of paradise outdoors in other zones, do so in the spring and summer when night temperatures are 60 degrees and above. Grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors when nighttime temperatures drop in fall.
Bird of Paradise Grown as a Houseplant
Bird of paradise does well when grown indoors as a houseplant, as such a warm environment is ideal. The plant requires a bright, sunny location, such as in front of an eastern or southern window. Bird of paradise also does well when grown under full-spectrum lighting.
Bird of Paradise Care and Maintenance
With consistent care, bird of paradise can thrive. Though the plant is drought tolerant once established, it grows best when you keep the soil moist but not soggy. This will generally require that you water the plant once a week when grown in the ground. Container-grown plants will require more frequent watering, especially when temperatures are high.
Fertilize bird of paradise once in spring and again in summer with an all-purpose fertilizer designed for flowering plants. Always follow the package directions on the fertilizer, as too much can burn plant roots and damage the plant.
Bird of paradise is a self-cleaning plant that tends to shed its own leaves when necessary. That means it rarely needs pruning. When you do prune, remove dead foliage and spent flower stalks.
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求助
Adrianne Jorgensen
2017年11月06日
indoor or outdoor?
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meriunkat：it could survive indoors but to avoid etiolation it must be exposed to the sunlight
meriunkat：yes I agree, definitely an outdoor plant
Ueca：Wherever there is sun. Never below 5°C, to be safe.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Fuchsia are immensely popular outdoor plants throughout the English-speaking world. They were first imported from subtropical regions in South American and New Zealand into the United Kingdom in the late 18th century, and have subsequently been the focus of extensive hybridizing.
Today, there are Fuchsia available in a wide range of colors, with the bell-like flowers blooming in white, pink, red, purple or various combinations. They’ve also been bred as single, double, or semi-double flowers. And finally, they can be used in any number of situations, as trained standards, trailing baskets, or pots of colorful blooms. Long thought of as outdoor plants, indoor Fuchsia are often thrown away after their bloom is finished. In reality, they can be overwintered, and a new set of leaves and blooms will emerge next spring for another display.
Growing Conditions
Light: Fuchsia appreciate bright light, but should not be subjected to full sun unless you can keep the roots adequately moist and cool. Many people use Fuchsia as shade plants, which is fine, but as long as they get enough water, they can handle more light than many people assume.
Water: During the growing season, keep the soil continuously moist. Plants dislike hot, dry roots—this will kill them. So make sure the roots are cool and moist at all times. After the bloom is done, cut watering back in preparation for over-wintering the plant.
Temperature: Fuchsia thrive at around 70˚F (21˚C) and dislike being hot for too long. During the overwintering period, reduce temperature to 50˚F (10˚C) or 60˚F (15˚C).
Soil: A rich, fast-draining mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Fertilize abundantly during the growing season. They are heavy feeders, and many container growers feed their plants with a weak liquid fertilizer at every watering (weekly) during the growing season. Controlled-release pellets are also an excellent option.
Repotting
Repot your Fuchsia in the spring annually. These plants require a rich supply of organic material to flower and perform their best, so even if you’re not stepping the plant up to a larger pot, you should repot it into a fresh pot with new soil. Add some controlled-release fertilizer pellets at repotting time to increase vigor.
Propagation
Fuchsia will propagate readily from leaf-tip cuttings. For best results, use a rooting hormone. After taking cuttings, leave the plants in a bright place with high humidity and keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaked. New growth should emerge within a few weeks. Do not repot cuttings until they are established.
Grower’s Tips
Fuchsia make excellent houseplants, in part because they are well adapted to growing in shadier conditions. In general, the more heat and light a Fuchsia is subjected to, the more careful you’ll have to be about watering. In some cases, you might be watering every day. To prevent fungal problems and pests, be careful not to let your Fuchsia leaves touch the dirt. Even then, whiteflies can be a problem for Fuchsia and should be treated at the first sign of an infestation (look for white webs on the undersides of leaves). When treating for whitefly, make sure to spray the undersides of leaves thoroughly to disrupt their life cycle. To overwinter your Fuchsia, let the leaves drop off in spring, reduce watering, and move it to a cool and dark room. New growth should appear in the spring.
Today, there are Fuchsia available in a wide range of colors, with the bell-like flowers blooming in white, pink, red, purple or various combinations. They’ve also been bred as single, double, or semi-double flowers. And finally, they can be used in any number of situations, as trained standards, trailing baskets, or pots of colorful blooms. Long thought of as outdoor plants, indoor Fuchsia are often thrown away after their bloom is finished. In reality, they can be overwintered, and a new set of leaves and blooms will emerge next spring for another display.
Growing Conditions
Light: Fuchsia appreciate bright light, but should not be subjected to full sun unless you can keep the roots adequately moist and cool. Many people use Fuchsia as shade plants, which is fine, but as long as they get enough water, they can handle more light than many people assume.
Water: During the growing season, keep the soil continuously moist. Plants dislike hot, dry roots—this will kill them. So make sure the roots are cool and moist at all times. After the bloom is done, cut watering back in preparation for over-wintering the plant.
Temperature: Fuchsia thrive at around 70˚F (21˚C) and dislike being hot for too long. During the overwintering period, reduce temperature to 50˚F (10˚C) or 60˚F (15˚C).
Soil: A rich, fast-draining mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Fertilize abundantly during the growing season. They are heavy feeders, and many container growers feed their plants with a weak liquid fertilizer at every watering (weekly) during the growing season. Controlled-release pellets are also an excellent option.
Repotting
Repot your Fuchsia in the spring annually. These plants require a rich supply of organic material to flower and perform their best, so even if you’re not stepping the plant up to a larger pot, you should repot it into a fresh pot with new soil. Add some controlled-release fertilizer pellets at repotting time to increase vigor.
Propagation
Fuchsia will propagate readily from leaf-tip cuttings. For best results, use a rooting hormone. After taking cuttings, leave the plants in a bright place with high humidity and keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaked. New growth should emerge within a few weeks. Do not repot cuttings until they are established.
Grower’s Tips
Fuchsia make excellent houseplants, in part because they are well adapted to growing in shadier conditions. In general, the more heat and light a Fuchsia is subjected to, the more careful you’ll have to be about watering. In some cases, you might be watering every day. To prevent fungal problems and pests, be careful not to let your Fuchsia leaves touch the dirt. Even then, whiteflies can be a problem for Fuchsia and should be treated at the first sign of an infestation (look for white webs on the undersides of leaves). When treating for whitefly, make sure to spray the undersides of leaves thoroughly to disrupt their life cycle. To overwinter your Fuchsia, let the leaves drop off in spring, reduce watering, and move it to a cool and dark room. New growth should appear in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Normally thought of as outdoor plants, Primula are actually excellent indoor potted plants for winter or spring blooms. Although the Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris) can be grown as a potted plant inside, the favorite potted Primula tend to be the more delicate species, with clusters of small blooms that rise above the crinkled and attractive leaves.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When the weather suddenly skyrockets with temperatures above 85 F. (29 C.), many plants will inevitably suffer from ill effects. However, with adequate care of outdoor plants in extreme heat, the effects of heat stress on plants, including vegetables, can be minimized.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Fenestraria, also know as Baby Toes is a small genus of miniature succulent plants that can be grown indoor or outdoor as small ornamental plants. These tiny plants are characterized by clumps of small, soft and succulent leaves.
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Many people prefer succulent plants for outdoor garden and indoor decoration. For those places which experiences dry and hot weather, these plants can be excellent for growing in those areas. Many people have started growing succulents indoors because they don’t require much sunlight and can grow well indoors.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It is possible to include garden-quality outdoor succulent plants in any landscape, anywhere in the country. The unique but commonly-grown plants, which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons, come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often unique frills and bristles. And many can tolerate hard freezes.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents may be most commonly grown in containers. However, they’re ideal for outdoor rock gardens and sculptural gardens. They can even serve as ground cover in rocky or sandy soils. If you don’t have garden space, grow succulents vertically outdoors. Living wall planters can be made from old pallets, picture frames, fence slats or shutters. Below are some of the most popular succulents for growing outdoors.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
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