文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Vine plants add depth to any garden, climbing over fences, trellises and walls. Like many vining plants, ornamental grape vines will not necessarily assume an attractive shape and climb exactly where you want them to -- even when you've got all the necessary supports in place. If you want your garden to look neat and well-tended, properly prune all ornamental grape vines to keep them under control.
Step 1
Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning.
Step 2
Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base.
Step 3
Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure.
Step 4
Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine.
Step 5
Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart.
Step 6
Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies.
Step 7
Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each.
Step 8
Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.
Step 1
Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning.
Step 2
Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base.
Step 3
Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure.
Step 4
Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine.
Step 5
Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart.
Step 6
Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies.
Step 7
Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each.
Step 8
Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Climbing strawberry varieties are very similar to traditional strawberry plants, but the runners, or vines, can reach up to 40 inches in length. These strawberries grow well in the ground as well as in hanging baskets and containers. However, because of the longer vines, ground-planted climbing strawberries require a trellis to keep the fruit and foliage off of the ground.
Step 1
Wait until the early spring when freezing temperatures cease and the ground is no longer frozen. Look for a planting site that is well drained, receives six hours of sunlight per day, and has a dark soil composition. Areas that are slightly elevated are good sites for strawberries, because they aid in water drainage.
Step 2
Spread a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, over the planting side using 1 lb. for every 100 square feet of soil. Till the soil with a garden tiller to work the fertilizer six to eight inches into the soil
Step 3
Dig a hole in the soil that is the same depth as the roots of one for the climbing strawberry plants. Insert the roots into the hole, making sure that the area where the green stems emerge, called the crown, is above the soil. Fill in the hole but do not cover crown with soil.
Step 4
Plant additional climbing strawberry varieties in the same methods, spacing them 18 to 30 inches apart.
Step 5
Dig a 12-inch deep trench six inches behind the plants with a shovel. Insert a 4- to 5-foot tall trellis into the bottom of the trench and pack soil around the base to fill in the hole and to hold it upright. You can install a single long trellis or smaller ones for each plant.
Step 6
Water the soil to the same depth as the roots of the strawberry plants.
Step 7
Wait four to five weeks until the plant runners begin to grow. Lift the runners up to a vertical position and secure them gently to the trellis using gardener's tape. Loop the tape around the vine stems and tie in a knot behind the trellis.
Step 1
Wait until the early spring when freezing temperatures cease and the ground is no longer frozen. Look for a planting site that is well drained, receives six hours of sunlight per day, and has a dark soil composition. Areas that are slightly elevated are good sites for strawberries, because they aid in water drainage.
Step 2
Spread a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, over the planting side using 1 lb. for every 100 square feet of soil. Till the soil with a garden tiller to work the fertilizer six to eight inches into the soil
Step 3
Dig a hole in the soil that is the same depth as the roots of one for the climbing strawberry plants. Insert the roots into the hole, making sure that the area where the green stems emerge, called the crown, is above the soil. Fill in the hole but do not cover crown with soil.
Step 4
Plant additional climbing strawberry varieties in the same methods, spacing them 18 to 30 inches apart.
Step 5
Dig a 12-inch deep trench six inches behind the plants with a shovel. Insert a 4- to 5-foot tall trellis into the bottom of the trench and pack soil around the base to fill in the hole and to hold it upright. You can install a single long trellis or smaller ones for each plant.
Step 6
Water the soil to the same depth as the roots of the strawberry plants.
Step 7
Wait four to five weeks until the plant runners begin to grow. Lift the runners up to a vertical position and secure them gently to the trellis using gardener's tape. Loop the tape around the vine stems and tie in a knot behind the trellis.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Scientific Name
Senecio angulatus L. f.
Common Names
Climbing Groundsel, Creeping Groundsel, Cape Ivy, Garden Senecio, Mile-a-Minute, Scrambling Groundsel, Vining Senecio, Canary Creeper
Synonyms
Senecio macropodus, Cineraria laevis
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Senecioneae
Subtribe: Senecioninae
Genus: Senecio
Description
Senecio angulatus is a scrambling or twining herb whose form is a dense tangled shrub, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall or a climber to 20 feet (6 m) high. Succulent, pale green stems with glossy, thick and fleshy, coarsely toothed leaves with one to three teeth each side, up to 8 inches (20 cm) long and up to 5.5 inches (14 cm) wide. Flowers are daisy-like with yellow petals produced in open clusters at the end of its branches or stems.
How to Grow and Care
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Senecio angulatus L. f.
Common Names
Climbing Groundsel, Creeping Groundsel, Cape Ivy, Garden Senecio, Mile-a-Minute, Scrambling Groundsel, Vining Senecio, Canary Creeper
Synonyms
Senecio macropodus, Cineraria laevis
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Senecioneae
Subtribe: Senecioninae
Genus: Senecio
Description
Senecio angulatus is a scrambling or twining herb whose form is a dense tangled shrub, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall or a climber to 20 feet (6 m) high. Succulent, pale green stems with glossy, thick and fleshy, coarsely toothed leaves with one to three teeth each side, up to 8 inches (20 cm) long and up to 5.5 inches (14 cm) wide. Flowers are daisy-like with yellow petals produced in open clusters at the end of its branches or stems.
How to Grow and Care
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’
Common Names
Gloriosa Lily, Climbing Lily
Synonyms
Gloriosa greenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow-green
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’ is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are exotic yellow-green and are borne in summer. They are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Garden origin.
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’
Common Names
Gloriosa Lily, Climbing Lily
Synonyms
Gloriosa greenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow-green
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’ is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are exotic yellow-green and are borne in summer. They are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Garden origin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Gloriosa superba L.
Common Names
Flame Lily, Climbing Lily, Creeping Lily, Glory Lily, Gloriosa Lily, Tiger Claw, Fire Lily
Synonyms
Eugone superba, Methonica superba, Gloriosa angulata, Gloriosa cirrhifolia, Gloriosa doniana, Gloriosa nepalensis, Gloriosa rockefelleriana, Gloriosa rothschildiana, Gloriosa verschuurii, Gloriosa virescens var. petersiana, Methonica doniana, Methonica gloriosa, Methonica petersiana, Methonica plantii, Methonica senegalensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow and orange-scarlet, ageing a deeper shade of orange-red to purple
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are borne in summer and are usually bi-colored yellow and orange-scarlet, ageing a deeper shade of orange-red to purple. There is also a pure yellow form. The flowers are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Native to much of Africa and Asia, but it is known worldwide as an ornamental plant, a medicine, a poison, and a noxious weed.
Gloriosa superba L.
Common Names
Flame Lily, Climbing Lily, Creeping Lily, Glory Lily, Gloriosa Lily, Tiger Claw, Fire Lily
Synonyms
Eugone superba, Methonica superba, Gloriosa angulata, Gloriosa cirrhifolia, Gloriosa doniana, Gloriosa nepalensis, Gloriosa rockefelleriana, Gloriosa rothschildiana, Gloriosa verschuurii, Gloriosa virescens var. petersiana, Methonica doniana, Methonica gloriosa, Methonica petersiana, Methonica plantii, Methonica senegalensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow and orange-scarlet, ageing a deeper shade of orange-red to purple
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are borne in summer and are usually bi-colored yellow and orange-scarlet, ageing a deeper shade of orange-red to purple. There is also a pure yellow form. The flowers are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Native to much of Africa and Asia, but it is known worldwide as an ornamental plant, a medicine, a poison, and a noxious weed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Bomarea is a tuberous member of the family Alstroemeriaceae. There are about 100 species, some of which are non-climbing, growing more like a ground cover, although the majority are climbers. They are found from Mexico on South, through the tropics and into the Andes, down to Southern Chile, and are mostly plants of the forest understory, where they grow through adjacent vegetation in lightly shaded conditions. Some species are coastal, growing in the fog belt of Chile, so, not surprisingly they do very well in Coastal California. Other species can only be found in the high altitude Páramo of South America.
Bomarea is related to Alstroemeria where both flowers and leaves demonstrate this close relationship. The beautiful flowers of this genus are produced in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30 to 45 flowers if well grown, with flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colors.
Seed Germination
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods.
To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Planted this way the seeds can germinate in as little as 2 weeks but they can be a little erratic so don’t be despondent if they don’t all sprout at the same time as some can take longer.
If you are planting stored seeds then stratify for around 3 weeks at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) then 3 weeks at 41 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) as this will trick the seed into thinking that winter has passed and it is time to start growing. Seeds that go through stratification may take up to 2 months to germinate.
Keep growing medium moist but not wet or soggy and do not let the growing medium dry out.
Once your seedling has several true leaves and are big enough to handle you should carefully prick out your new plants and place them into individual pots. Once they mature over the next few months you can then pot them on again into a large planter or container or even into your garden soil in warmer and milder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Bomarea is related to Alstroemeria where both flowers and leaves demonstrate this close relationship. The beautiful flowers of this genus are produced in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30 to 45 flowers if well grown, with flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colors.
Seed Germination
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods.
To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Planted this way the seeds can germinate in as little as 2 weeks but they can be a little erratic so don’t be despondent if they don’t all sprout at the same time as some can take longer.
If you are planting stored seeds then stratify for around 3 weeks at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) then 3 weeks at 41 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) as this will trick the seed into thinking that winter has passed and it is time to start growing. Seeds that go through stratification may take up to 2 months to germinate.
Keep growing medium moist but not wet or soggy and do not let the growing medium dry out.
Once your seedling has several true leaves and are big enough to handle you should carefully prick out your new plants and place them into individual pots. Once they mature over the next few months you can then pot them on again into a large planter or container or even into your garden soil in warmer and milder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
There’s nothing more enchanting than the iconic “rose-covered cottage”. The imagery of quaint, thatched-roof homes covered with long, sweet-smelling trails of colorful roses. Climbing roses can form a vibrant landscape backdrop for border perennials and annuals. They are also a lovely choice for arbors, trellises, fences, and pergolas. Most varieties will grow from 6 to 12 feet (1.8 to 3.2 m) long and will spread about 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) wide. They are available in a range of pastels, brights, and multi-colors.
Climbers are considerably less fussy than their bush-form rose cousins; you simply need to have a handle on the basics and a little help from Mother Nature.
Choosing a Variety
Above all, determine whether the variety you want is suited for your growing zone – if you’re not already familiar with the importance of growing things suited to your hardiness zone. Next, choose the color you like and see if the mature size is suited for the space you’ve chosen. Then, look for a climber that is disease-resistant, repeat-blooming, or whichever other “bonus” features are most important to you.
Growing Conditions
Most all rose types need full sun; they thrive in loamy, well-drained soil and prefer a consistent drink of water: about an inch (2.5 cm) a week. Eastern exposure is ideal to protect the leaves from hot afternoon sun.
Note: Roses with wet feet are susceptible to all kinds of fungus. Black spot and other diseases can spread to your other rose plantings, so keep a clean planting site and take care not to overwater. Good soil drainage will help mitigate heavy soaking rains.
Training
Gardeners usually want a climbing rose to serve a functional purpose (act as a screen, frame a doorway, etc.) as well as provide visual beauty to the space. To that end, the stems need to be trained to grow the way you want them to. Air circulation is important to prevent disease, so if you want the climber to cover a wall, use a free-standing vertical support that gives your rose at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of breathing room between the plant and the wall. With a stretchable fastener, hand-tie your climber to the crosspiece of the structure and try to arrange the branches in a fan shape as it grows. This will help to make pruning easier. It’s recommended that you train — do not try to heavily prune — for the first couple of years. This will encourage growth on the bottom of the plant, not just the tops, for a fuller appearance.
Pruning
Aside from sun, food, and water essentials, one thing you can do to turn your climbing roses into prolific bloomers is proper pruning. Pruning is only necessary once a year after the plants have been established. Many gardeners prune their climbing roses, for maintenance and shape, in the spring after the first blooms pass. As a result of proper pruning, your climbers will be significantly stronger and will produce many more blooms!
Note: Most climbing roses (hybrid teas) bloom two or more times every season: first on old canes, and then on the current season’s growth. If you prune in late winter (about the time forsythia blooms), you’ll get boatloads of blooms later in the season. For old-fashioned climbers that only bloom once in the summer, prune just after blooming has stopped.
When it’s time to prune, remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing canes, and canes that are narrower than a pencil. When all you’ve got is main canes left, cut back the side shoots from these main canes to about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to keep them in line.
Tip: Wipe your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between each cut. This helps prevent the spread of disease when pruning, while also caring for your tools. After use, wash pruning tools with a mild soap, rinse, and towel-dry.
As always, deadhead your climbers to keep them blooming, but just until fall — allowing hips to develop helps the plant enter dormancy, which will help it overwinter properly.
Feeding
Fertilizer requirements differ, depending upon where you live and your individual soil composition. In the South or West, where roses tend to grow for 9 or 10 months of the year, more fertilizer may be needed. In contrast: in the North, where roses may have 3 or 4 months of growth, less fertilizer will be used.
Time-release rose food is the easiest form to use; all you have to remember is to apply it once or twice per season, and water before and after use to avoid burning.
Organic gardeners like a 50/50 mix of cottonseed and alfalfa meals. Use 10 cups of this mixture at the base of each rose every 10 weeks, and cover with mulch.
Start fertilizing in early spring after pruning, about four weeks before spring growth begins. In cold-winter regions, stop fertilizing six weeks before the first predicted frost to allow the plant to go dormant before a hard freeze.
Mulching and Winterizing
Mulch is critical to keep rose roots evenly moist in the summer, and to protect them against hard freezing over the winter. Apply a layer of mulch, only a few inches thick, around roses in the spring – this may happen at planting time if you plant roses in the spring. Later in the fall, after the first frost, pile up more mulch around the plants to provide extra insulation. As the ground warms and thaws in the spring, gradually remove the excess mulch and leave a layer of mulch that is just a few inches thick again.
Pest Control
Roses seem to attract more insects than any other flower – beneficials and pests alike! Pests may chew and pit the leaves, wilt the petals, and burrow into the stems. You can nip pest problems in the bud with organic Insecticidal Soap — it acts quickly and on contact (not systemically) to get rid of common rose pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies, with an all-natural solution.
Note: Pesticides don’t know the difference between beneficials and pests, so never use pesticides when bees or other beneficials are present.
Disease Control
Roses are subject to black spot, anthracnose, and other fungal problems caused by a recipe of too much water, humidity, and heat. Some varieties are more disease-resistant. If your climbing roses do develop a fungal disease, a disease control spray like Bonide, Fung-onil, Multi-Purpose Fungicide should be used. For a natural alternative in organic gardens, copper-based Bordeaux spray/dust is effective against mildews and other diseases.
Climbing roses are a unique twist to the traditional landscape – and since they take up very little ground space, you can enjoy growing your own climbers even if your space is limited. Now that you have the basics down, you’re ready to get started growing your own climbing roses!
Climbers are considerably less fussy than their bush-form rose cousins; you simply need to have a handle on the basics and a little help from Mother Nature.
Choosing a Variety
Above all, determine whether the variety you want is suited for your growing zone – if you’re not already familiar with the importance of growing things suited to your hardiness zone. Next, choose the color you like and see if the mature size is suited for the space you’ve chosen. Then, look for a climber that is disease-resistant, repeat-blooming, or whichever other “bonus” features are most important to you.
Growing Conditions
Most all rose types need full sun; they thrive in loamy, well-drained soil and prefer a consistent drink of water: about an inch (2.5 cm) a week. Eastern exposure is ideal to protect the leaves from hot afternoon sun.
Note: Roses with wet feet are susceptible to all kinds of fungus. Black spot and other diseases can spread to your other rose plantings, so keep a clean planting site and take care not to overwater. Good soil drainage will help mitigate heavy soaking rains.
Training
Gardeners usually want a climbing rose to serve a functional purpose (act as a screen, frame a doorway, etc.) as well as provide visual beauty to the space. To that end, the stems need to be trained to grow the way you want them to. Air circulation is important to prevent disease, so if you want the climber to cover a wall, use a free-standing vertical support that gives your rose at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of breathing room between the plant and the wall. With a stretchable fastener, hand-tie your climber to the crosspiece of the structure and try to arrange the branches in a fan shape as it grows. This will help to make pruning easier. It’s recommended that you train — do not try to heavily prune — for the first couple of years. This will encourage growth on the bottom of the plant, not just the tops, for a fuller appearance.
Pruning
Aside from sun, food, and water essentials, one thing you can do to turn your climbing roses into prolific bloomers is proper pruning. Pruning is only necessary once a year after the plants have been established. Many gardeners prune their climbing roses, for maintenance and shape, in the spring after the first blooms pass. As a result of proper pruning, your climbers will be significantly stronger and will produce many more blooms!
Note: Most climbing roses (hybrid teas) bloom two or more times every season: first on old canes, and then on the current season’s growth. If you prune in late winter (about the time forsythia blooms), you’ll get boatloads of blooms later in the season. For old-fashioned climbers that only bloom once in the summer, prune just after blooming has stopped.
When it’s time to prune, remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing canes, and canes that are narrower than a pencil. When all you’ve got is main canes left, cut back the side shoots from these main canes to about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to keep them in line.
Tip: Wipe your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between each cut. This helps prevent the spread of disease when pruning, while also caring for your tools. After use, wash pruning tools with a mild soap, rinse, and towel-dry.
As always, deadhead your climbers to keep them blooming, but just until fall — allowing hips to develop helps the plant enter dormancy, which will help it overwinter properly.
Feeding
Fertilizer requirements differ, depending upon where you live and your individual soil composition. In the South or West, where roses tend to grow for 9 or 10 months of the year, more fertilizer may be needed. In contrast: in the North, where roses may have 3 or 4 months of growth, less fertilizer will be used.
Time-release rose food is the easiest form to use; all you have to remember is to apply it once or twice per season, and water before and after use to avoid burning.
Organic gardeners like a 50/50 mix of cottonseed and alfalfa meals. Use 10 cups of this mixture at the base of each rose every 10 weeks, and cover with mulch.
Start fertilizing in early spring after pruning, about four weeks before spring growth begins. In cold-winter regions, stop fertilizing six weeks before the first predicted frost to allow the plant to go dormant before a hard freeze.
Mulching and Winterizing
Mulch is critical to keep rose roots evenly moist in the summer, and to protect them against hard freezing over the winter. Apply a layer of mulch, only a few inches thick, around roses in the spring – this may happen at planting time if you plant roses in the spring. Later in the fall, after the first frost, pile up more mulch around the plants to provide extra insulation. As the ground warms and thaws in the spring, gradually remove the excess mulch and leave a layer of mulch that is just a few inches thick again.
Pest Control
Roses seem to attract more insects than any other flower – beneficials and pests alike! Pests may chew and pit the leaves, wilt the petals, and burrow into the stems. You can nip pest problems in the bud with organic Insecticidal Soap — it acts quickly and on contact (not systemically) to get rid of common rose pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies, with an all-natural solution.
Note: Pesticides don’t know the difference between beneficials and pests, so never use pesticides when bees or other beneficials are present.
Disease Control
Roses are subject to black spot, anthracnose, and other fungal problems caused by a recipe of too much water, humidity, and heat. Some varieties are more disease-resistant. If your climbing roses do develop a fungal disease, a disease control spray like Bonide, Fung-onil, Multi-Purpose Fungicide should be used. For a natural alternative in organic gardens, copper-based Bordeaux spray/dust is effective against mildews and other diseases.
Climbing roses are a unique twist to the traditional landscape – and since they take up very little ground space, you can enjoy growing your own climbers even if your space is limited. Now that you have the basics down, you’re ready to get started growing your own climbing roses!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
All species of Honeysuckle plant (Lonicera) fall into two categories: 1) arching shrubs and 2) twinning bines, with the large majority being climbing plants that make for attractive Honeysuckle vines. These Honeysuckle vines produce trumpet shaped flowers, honey-like scents, and sweet nectar that attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and even humans who enjoy sampling the nectar.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Bomarea multiflora (L. f.) Mirb.
Common Names
Vine Alstroemeria, Trailing Lily, Climbing Alstroemeria
Synonyms
Alstroemeria caldasii, Alstroemeria multiflora, Bomarea caldasii, Bomarea oligantha
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Bright red to orange
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Bomarea multiflora is a multi-stemmed climber up to 6.6 feet (2 m), with narrow, oblong, mid- to light green leaves. The narrowly funnel-shaped flowers appear in rounded clusters from late spring to autumn, and are bright red to orange in color, orange or yellow inside, with red, brown, or grown spots, followed by lobed, bright red fruit.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Colombia and Ecuador.
Bomarea multiflora (L. f.) Mirb.
Common Names
Vine Alstroemeria, Trailing Lily, Climbing Alstroemeria
Synonyms
Alstroemeria caldasii, Alstroemeria multiflora, Bomarea caldasii, Bomarea oligantha
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Bright red to orange
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Bomarea multiflora is a multi-stemmed climber up to 6.6 feet (2 m), with narrow, oblong, mid- to light green leaves. The narrowly funnel-shaped flowers appear in rounded clusters from late spring to autumn, and are bright red to orange in color, orange or yellow inside, with red, brown, or grown spots, followed by lobed, bright red fruit.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Colombia and Ecuador.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Bowiea volubilis also known as Climbing Onion Plant, is not related to onions or other alliums but is more closely aligned with lilies. It is not an edible plant and can be described as an interesting, but not as pretty, specimen of flora. Bowiea Sea Onion is another name for the plant, which is a succulent plant without any leaves. The plant grows from a bulb which is often outside of the soil. Growing climbing onion as a houseplant will amaze visitors and give all who see it something to ponder.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
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