文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Hoya plant is known for its thick leaves and a characteristic shape. They are climbing and clambering so they make a very interesting sight in any home. Hoyas are also known as The Hindu Rope or Wax Plant. They are wax-stemmed and produce beautiful flowers. Many people like to grow them in their home, balcony or garden.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses (Rosa spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Varieties include climbing or rambling, bush, hybrid and miniature. Some roses bloom on canes produced the previous year and others on the current year's growth. Pruning at the wrong time can lead to poor blossom production or make the plants susceptible to pests diseases and weather damage. Hard-prune hybrid, bush and miniature roses in spring just before they produce leaves, and hard-prune climbing roses right after their blooms fade in summer. About one-third of a rose bush remains after a hard prune. Trimming instead of hard-pruning, however, removes only enough growth to shape the bushes and to encourage new blooms. Trim all kinds of roses throughout the growing season for size control, additional flowering or to remove faded blooms and damaged branches.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
Step 1
Remove rose bushes' dead canes any time you notice them. Cut back each dead portion of a cane to the green part of the cane, using pruning shears. Check whether or not the pith -- the center of the cane -- is white. If the pith is brown, prune back the cane to its part that has a white pith.
Step 2
Cut away branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil throughout the growing season. Make each cut at a 45-degree angle away from an outward-facing stem bud.
Step 3
Trim back stems that cross each other or may grow into each other when you notice the problem. Cut such a stem back to the main cane, leaving about 1/4 inch of the stem remaining. Use loppers or pruning shears.
Step 4
Cut the stem of each spent flower just below the first set of a five-leaf leaflet. Cut just below a seven-leaf leaflet if you want to reduce a rose bush's height. Removing spent flowers is called deadheading.
Step 5
Remove two or three center, old canes at the base of a crowded or overgrown rose bush by using loppers. This technique opens the bush's center, providing it better air circulation during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The classic beauty of the rose makes it a garden favorite. Its trademark blossom comes in an array of hues and subtle distinctions. There are many varieties of rose bushes, some are climbers and others are shrubs. A climbing rose bush can weave itself over a trellis, or a row of shrubs can form a colorful hedge. Dedicated rose gardeners know that the fragrant flower requires periodic nurturing.
Step 1
Stop cutting roses off your bush by late fall. This allows the seeds to develop which signals the bush to move into dormancy. As the weather gets colder, this dormancy with help protect the plant.
Step 2
Stop dead heading by late fall. This means to stop removing the dead flowers.
Step 3
Don't prune for winter. You will need to prune after the frost.
Step 4
Prune tall rose bushes only if necessary for winter covering. Put on protective gloves.
Step 5
Clean your pruning shears, to avoid spreading disease.
Step 6
Cut at a 45 degree angle to the stem axis. Keep pruning to a minimum, removing only what is necessary for covering the plant.
Step 1
Stop cutting roses off your bush by late fall. This allows the seeds to develop which signals the bush to move into dormancy. As the weather gets colder, this dormancy with help protect the plant.
Step 2
Stop dead heading by late fall. This means to stop removing the dead flowers.
Step 3
Don't prune for winter. You will need to prune after the frost.
Step 4
Prune tall rose bushes only if necessary for winter covering. Put on protective gloves.
Step 5
Clean your pruning shears, to avoid spreading disease.
Step 6
Cut at a 45 degree angle to the stem axis. Keep pruning to a minimum, removing only what is necessary for covering the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Iceberg roses are one of the oldest and most beautiful of the climbing roses. The blooms are so white, they are almost blinding. However, they do not make good cut flowers for two reasons. Their stems are very thin, and they do not stand up well in a vase, and the blooms grow in clusters, so it is hard to cut without cutting off the new buds as well. But they make a spectacular display along a fence, on a trellis or over an arbor. These steps will help you with the pruning process.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Climbing roses are a great way to add new dimension--and height--to your yard or garden. They are typically easier to care for and more vigorous than other roses. If you have grown roses before, understand that caring for climbing roses is not exactly the same as caring for other types of roses. Although some of their requirements are similar, many things are different.
Step 1
Plant climbers in an area that receives plenty of sun. While some climbers will do well in partial shade--even up to half a day of shade--most need plenty of light. In general, lighter colored climbing roses will be more tolerant to shade the darker-colored roses.
Step 2
Amend clay and sandy soils with compost, manure, mulch or peat moss. Or plant the roses in an area that has rich, loamy soil with good drainage.
Step 3
Cover soil with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, pine needles, buckwheat hulIs, ground corn cobs, peat moss, wood chips, shredded bark, cottonseed/cocoa bean hulls, chopped leaves, peat nuggets or grass clippings. This will keep the soil moist and the roots cool. Mulch in the spring while the rose bush is still dormant.
Step 4
Water climbing roses, if necessary, so that they get at least 1 inch of water per week and 2 inches of water if planted in sandy soil. Water in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent fungus problems.
Step 5
Fertilize in the spring after pruning. Use a dry, commercial rose fertilizer that has a slow release form of nitrogen. Apply about 1/2-cup to the soil. During the summer, apply a foliar spray of diluted liquid fertilizer (50 percent strength) every 3 to 4 weeks up until 6 weeks before the first frost is expected.
Step 6
Support climbing roses by tying the canes to a trellis, frame or similar structure. Tie them loosely with string, soft cloth or plastic. Climbing roses do not have tendrils or suckers like vines, so they require external supports to grow vigorous. If possible, allow your roses to grow horizontally, than vertically, as they will produce more flowers.
Step 7
Prune roses once they are at least 3 to 4 years old. In the spring, remove any dead wood, weak canes and any canes to avoid overcrowding or crossing. You will only need to prune every other year, although hardy climbers can be pruned every year. Your goal in pruning is to keep the roses in the area you want and ensure that only strong canes remain, not to limit its growth. Use only sharp, clean pruning shears and make slanting cuts about 1/4 inch above a growth bud.
Step 8
Deadhead roses by removing any spent flowers. Cut back the stem to a leaflet or a bud with 5 leaves.
Step 9
Protect climbing roses in the winter if you live in an area where temperatures frequently get and stay below freezing. For the best results, remove the canes from their support and cover them with soil. If you can't remove them from their supports, make sure they are securely tied and cover them with a burlap screen or similar material. Also, cover the base of the plant with soil or mulch.
Step 1
Plant climbers in an area that receives plenty of sun. While some climbers will do well in partial shade--even up to half a day of shade--most need plenty of light. In general, lighter colored climbing roses will be more tolerant to shade the darker-colored roses.
Step 2
Amend clay and sandy soils with compost, manure, mulch or peat moss. Or plant the roses in an area that has rich, loamy soil with good drainage.
Step 3
Cover soil with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, pine needles, buckwheat hulIs, ground corn cobs, peat moss, wood chips, shredded bark, cottonseed/cocoa bean hulls, chopped leaves, peat nuggets or grass clippings. This will keep the soil moist and the roots cool. Mulch in the spring while the rose bush is still dormant.
Step 4
Water climbing roses, if necessary, so that they get at least 1 inch of water per week and 2 inches of water if planted in sandy soil. Water in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent fungus problems.
Step 5
Fertilize in the spring after pruning. Use a dry, commercial rose fertilizer that has a slow release form of nitrogen. Apply about 1/2-cup to the soil. During the summer, apply a foliar spray of diluted liquid fertilizer (50 percent strength) every 3 to 4 weeks up until 6 weeks before the first frost is expected.
Step 6
Support climbing roses by tying the canes to a trellis, frame or similar structure. Tie them loosely with string, soft cloth or plastic. Climbing roses do not have tendrils or suckers like vines, so they require external supports to grow vigorous. If possible, allow your roses to grow horizontally, than vertically, as they will produce more flowers.
Step 7
Prune roses once they are at least 3 to 4 years old. In the spring, remove any dead wood, weak canes and any canes to avoid overcrowding or crossing. You will only need to prune every other year, although hardy climbers can be pruned every year. Your goal in pruning is to keep the roses in the area you want and ensure that only strong canes remain, not to limit its growth. Use only sharp, clean pruning shears and make slanting cuts about 1/4 inch above a growth bud.
Step 8
Deadhead roses by removing any spent flowers. Cut back the stem to a leaflet or a bud with 5 leaves.
Step 9
Protect climbing roses in the winter if you live in an area where temperatures frequently get and stay below freezing. For the best results, remove the canes from their support and cover them with soil. If you can't remove them from their supports, make sure they are securely tied and cover them with a burlap screen or similar material. Also, cover the base of the plant with soil or mulch.
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求助
Ueca
2017年08月22日
What is the species of this climbing plant?
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Cristel：Euonymus, possibly “Winter Creeper”
Ueca：Found it. It is the merit-winning Euonymus fortunei.
Ueca：Currently it is about 60cm tall, but it was up to 3m up the wall in the past.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are the type of carnivorous plant that sits and waits for bugs to fall into their pitcher traps. The tendril-shaped “pitchers” have a rim on the top that stops insects from climbing out once they get in. Generally, pitcher plants do not require much maintenance, but pruning a pitcher plant occasionally produces a more vigorous plant. Read on to learn how to prune a pitcher plant.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Climbing roses provide a colorful accent that can be trained onto trellises, around windows and doors or along eaves. The old-fashioned blooms have new life with today's modern hardscapes and landscape structures. Roses need at least six hours of sunlight a day, and the Texas climate provides that in spades. Climbers can flower just in spring, or flower repeatedly, giving a color show well into fall.
Old Garden Roses
Roses in older gardens are often cultivars that don't exist anymore. They can be found creeping over walls and fences or even in cemeteries with no one to care for them. These climbers are being preserved through cuttings and reintroduced into cultivation. Schulenburg Apricot, Katy Road Pink and Highway 290 Pink Buttons are examples of some of the old garden roses. Old roses, which are any variety produced before 1867, are resistant to many common rose problems and can be trained as an espalier or trellis form. Lady Banks grows 20-foot-tall canes, and Cecile Brunner is not far behind with 15- to 20-foot canes. Either would be excellent choices for their old-fashioned pastel blooms and hardy climbing nature.
1950s Cultivars
A lot of new cultivars were introduced in the 1950s. One of these, Climbing Pinkie, is an 8-foot-tall bush with semi-double pink flowers. The canes are thornless and the blooms carry a light fragrance. Don Juan Is a citrus-scented red rose that blooms fully even in the worst Texas heat. For vigor you can't beat Dortmund, a 1955 introduction. It can grow up to 30 feet tall and bears deep red flowers with a white center and bright yellow stamen. The roses have overlapping petals that give the blooms a frilled appearance. The thorns on this bush deserve respect as they are large and sharp.
Earth Kind
Earth Kind is a designation from Texas A&M University that rates roses for their health, environmental friendliness and tolerance to Texas' extreme climate. Sea Foam is a moderate climber that only gets 3 feet tall and then cascades downward. None of the roses in the Earth Kind program have been treated with any chemicals or even fertilized. New Dawn was the first rose to be patented in the U.S. it is a fast climber that can grow to 20 feet tall, sporting white flowers with pink centers. Reve 'd Or is another vigorous species climber. The Earth Kind rose designation is now being used in other states to categorize rose bushes for responsible growers.
Old Garden Roses
Roses in older gardens are often cultivars that don't exist anymore. They can be found creeping over walls and fences or even in cemeteries with no one to care for them. These climbers are being preserved through cuttings and reintroduced into cultivation. Schulenburg Apricot, Katy Road Pink and Highway 290 Pink Buttons are examples of some of the old garden roses. Old roses, which are any variety produced before 1867, are resistant to many common rose problems and can be trained as an espalier or trellis form. Lady Banks grows 20-foot-tall canes, and Cecile Brunner is not far behind with 15- to 20-foot canes. Either would be excellent choices for their old-fashioned pastel blooms and hardy climbing nature.
1950s Cultivars
A lot of new cultivars were introduced in the 1950s. One of these, Climbing Pinkie, is an 8-foot-tall bush with semi-double pink flowers. The canes are thornless and the blooms carry a light fragrance. Don Juan Is a citrus-scented red rose that blooms fully even in the worst Texas heat. For vigor you can't beat Dortmund, a 1955 introduction. It can grow up to 30 feet tall and bears deep red flowers with a white center and bright yellow stamen. The roses have overlapping petals that give the blooms a frilled appearance. The thorns on this bush deserve respect as they are large and sharp.
Earth Kind
Earth Kind is a designation from Texas A&M University that rates roses for their health, environmental friendliness and tolerance to Texas' extreme climate. Sea Foam is a moderate climber that only gets 3 feet tall and then cascades downward. None of the roses in the Earth Kind program have been treated with any chemicals or even fertilized. New Dawn was the first rose to be patented in the U.S. it is a fast climber that can grow to 20 feet tall, sporting white flowers with pink centers. Reve 'd Or is another vigorous species climber. The Earth Kind rose designation is now being used in other states to categorize rose bushes for responsible growers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: BluePurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Spring
A high-climbing vine, wisteria blooms vigorously in spring with large, drooping clusters of lilac or bluish purple.
Note: Two species of wisteria that are typically grown in home gardens are invasive species: Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The native wisteria is Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria. If you’re planting a new wisteria, we strongly suggest you avoid the Asian invasive wisteria species.
How to tell the difference? The Asian species are aggressive growers with fuzzy seed pods while the American wisteria is not an aggressive grower and has smooth seed pods, glabrous fruits and more or less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds. The native wisteria’s flowers appear after the plant has leafed out, a difference from the Asian species. The blooms only appear on new wood.
The vine may grow 25 to 30 feet long! Wisteria is also beautifully fragrant, providing a feast for the senses. A brown, bean-like pod exists until winter.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, moist, but well-drained soil.
Plant in full sun. Though wisteria will grow in partial shade, it probably won’t flower. Sun is essential.
If your soil is in poor condition, add compost; otherwise, wisteria will grow in most soils. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Plant in the spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. Space plants 10 to 15 feet apart.
Choose a site that will not overwhelm nearby plants, as wisteria grows quickly and can overtake its neighbors.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant and a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Some gardeners swear by phosphorus to aid flowering. Scratch a couple of cups of bone meal into the soil in the spring and then add some rock phosphate in the fall.
Water your plants if you receive less than one inch of rain each week. (To know how much rain you are getting, you can place an empty tuna can outside and measure the depth of water with a measuring stick.)
PRUNING WISTERIA
Pruning is the secret to good flowering.
Prune wisteria in late winter. Remove at least half of the prior year’s growth, leaving just a few buds per stem.
If you want a more formal appearance, prune again during summer, after traditional flowering.
For more blooms, try cutting back the rampant shoots every two weeks during the summer.
Do you have a new wisteria? Cut the vine back severely right after planting. Then, the next year, cut the main stem or stems back to 3 feet of the previous season’s growth. Once the framework is full size, shorten further extension growth in midsummer to where growth began for that season.
Informally grown, mature plants need little or no subsequent pruning.
For a formally trained plant, cut side shoots back to 6 inches in summer, then shorten them again in winter to 3 buds.
Wisteria will resprout with vigor if cut back severely, but this pruning should be avoided, if possible, because new shoots may take some years before they flower.
PESTS/DISEASES
Dieback, crown gall, leaf spots, virus diseases, Japanese beetle, aphids, leaf miners, scale insects, and mealybugs can be problems.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: BluePurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Spring
A high-climbing vine, wisteria blooms vigorously in spring with large, drooping clusters of lilac or bluish purple.
Note: Two species of wisteria that are typically grown in home gardens are invasive species: Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The native wisteria is Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria. If you’re planting a new wisteria, we strongly suggest you avoid the Asian invasive wisteria species.
How to tell the difference? The Asian species are aggressive growers with fuzzy seed pods while the American wisteria is not an aggressive grower and has smooth seed pods, glabrous fruits and more or less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds. The native wisteria’s flowers appear after the plant has leafed out, a difference from the Asian species. The blooms only appear on new wood.
The vine may grow 25 to 30 feet long! Wisteria is also beautifully fragrant, providing a feast for the senses. A brown, bean-like pod exists until winter.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, moist, but well-drained soil.
Plant in full sun. Though wisteria will grow in partial shade, it probably won’t flower. Sun is essential.
If your soil is in poor condition, add compost; otherwise, wisteria will grow in most soils. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Plant in the spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. Space plants 10 to 15 feet apart.
Choose a site that will not overwhelm nearby plants, as wisteria grows quickly and can overtake its neighbors.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant and a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Some gardeners swear by phosphorus to aid flowering. Scratch a couple of cups of bone meal into the soil in the spring and then add some rock phosphate in the fall.
Water your plants if you receive less than one inch of rain each week. (To know how much rain you are getting, you can place an empty tuna can outside and measure the depth of water with a measuring stick.)
PRUNING WISTERIA
Pruning is the secret to good flowering.
Prune wisteria in late winter. Remove at least half of the prior year’s growth, leaving just a few buds per stem.
If you want a more formal appearance, prune again during summer, after traditional flowering.
For more blooms, try cutting back the rampant shoots every two weeks during the summer.
Do you have a new wisteria? Cut the vine back severely right after planting. Then, the next year, cut the main stem or stems back to 3 feet of the previous season’s growth. Once the framework is full size, shorten further extension growth in midsummer to where growth began for that season.
Informally grown, mature plants need little or no subsequent pruning.
For a formally trained plant, cut side shoots back to 6 inches in summer, then shorten them again in winter to 3 buds.
Wisteria will resprout with vigor if cut back severely, but this pruning should be avoided, if possible, because new shoots may take some years before they flower.
PESTS/DISEASES
Dieback, crown gall, leaf spots, virus diseases, Japanese beetle, aphids, leaf miners, scale insects, and mealybugs can be problems.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over a hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
How to Choose Hydrangeas
There are several types of hydrangea plants. Most grow as shrubs, although there is one vine, called climbing hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap types, perhaps the most common hydrangeas in zones 6 through 9, can fill many roles in the landscape. To grow hydrangeas as a hedge, choose panicle, smooth, or oakleaf hydrangea, which also offers good fall leaf color. If you are planning to grow hydrangeas in full shade, choose oakleaf hydrangea or the climbing type. If you’re planting hydrangeas in colder regions, panicle hydrangea (the type that can be grown as a tree) is the one you want, as it is the most winter-hardy.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
The most important factors when choosing where to plant hydrangeas are light and moisture. In the South, plant them where they will receive morning sunlight and afternoon shade. With these conditions, you can grow the extremely popular French (also called bigleaf) hydrangea or panicle hydrangea. In northern regions, these same types of hydrangeas will grow in all-day sun.
The name hydrangea contains the root word “hydra” (like in hydration), which gives a clue about how much water these plants need. Make sure the spot you select is close to a water source. Know, too, that French hydrangeas tend to need the most water to thrive.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Hydrangeas
To grow hydrangeas in planting beds, focus on improving the native soil. One simple way to do that is to combine equal parts existing soil and Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs. In warmer regions (zones 7 and warmer), where winter tends to be mild, you can also grow hydrangeas in containers. Create just the right environment for them by filling pots with Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix.
It is worth noting that mophead and lacecap hydrangeas both change flower color based on soil pH, which is a measure of how alkaline or acidic the soil is. Flowers turn pink to red in alkaline soil, and lavender to blue in acidic soil.
When to Plant Hydrangeas
When you see hydrangea plants for sale at local garden centers, that’s usually the right time for planting. This timing will vary by region. For instance, in areas with winter freezing and snow, hydrangeas should be planted in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks). In warmer regions with mild winters, the window for planting hydrangeas is longer, from fall all the way through to early spring.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
How far apart to space plants depends on what type of hydrangea you’re growing. It’s best to check the plant tag. Note that hydrangeas planted in the shade tend to grow a little larger and spread a little more. When planting hydrangeas, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the width of the container the hydrangea came in. Place the plant in the hole so that the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the original pot, then fill in the hole with the 50-50 soil mixture described above. Water well after planting.
How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers
To plant hydrangeas in containers, again check that plants are at the same depth as they were growing previously. How large a container to use depends on how large your hydrangea will grow. Typically, it’s safe to start with a pot 2 inches larger than the container the plant is currently in.How to Water Hydrangeas
Water deeply after planting, making sure to soak the root ball and surrounding soil. If the hydrangeas are dormant (without leaves), you may not need to water again until growth resumes.
Hydrangeas thrive in consistently moist soil. Check the soil at least once a week. When the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Once hydrangeas are established, they typically survive on rainfall, except during times of drought.How to Mulch Hydrangeas
After planting hydrangeas, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick mulch layer around (but not on) the plants. Mulch helps keep soil moist and weeds at bay by blocking the weeds’ growth and access to sunlight. Choose whichever mulch looks best in your landscape: Scotts® bagged mulch, shredded leaves, pine straw, or some other locally available material.
How to Feed Hydrangeas
Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring as new growth appears and again just before summer. Avoid feeding hydrangeas after August, especially in regions with cold winters. A slow-release plant food works well. For best results, try Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Flowering Trees & Shrubs Plant Food, which feeds for up to 3 months.
How to Prune Hydrangeas
When to prune hydrangeas hinges on the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Both French and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood (last year’s stems), so you should prune plants right after flowering is finished. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new growth, which means you can prune stems in late winter to early spring. In general, as long as you give hydrangeas enough elbow room to spread and reach their mature size, you shouldn’t have to do too much pruning beyond cutting out dead or damaged wood.
How to Protect Hydrangeas in Winter
In colder areas, many gardeners erect a burlap screen around oakleaf and French hydrangeas in an effort to help protect flower buds that have already formed for the next year. The most important aspect of winter protection, however, is making sure the hydrangea you’re growing is hardy in your gardening zone.
How to Use Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas can fill multiple roles in the garden. Plant a hydrangea privacy hedge, or use them as a foundation planting around a home. A single hydrangea can be the focal point of a garden, and potted hydrangeas can bring beauty to a deck or entry garden. Hydrangeas also integrate well into mixed borders of shrubs and perennials, and make a natural-looking addition to a woodland setting.
Fresh hydrangea flowers are a favorite for filling vases and adorning wedding bouquets. If you want to dry hydrangea blooms, most experts suggest waiting to let flowers age and dry naturally on the plant. Harvest at the color stage you prefer.
There are several types of hydrangea plants. Most grow as shrubs, although there is one vine, called climbing hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap types, perhaps the most common hydrangeas in zones 6 through 9, can fill many roles in the landscape. To grow hydrangeas as a hedge, choose panicle, smooth, or oakleaf hydrangea, which also offers good fall leaf color. If you are planning to grow hydrangeas in full shade, choose oakleaf hydrangea or the climbing type. If you’re planting hydrangeas in colder regions, panicle hydrangea (the type that can be grown as a tree) is the one you want, as it is the most winter-hardy.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
The most important factors when choosing where to plant hydrangeas are light and moisture. In the South, plant them where they will receive morning sunlight and afternoon shade. With these conditions, you can grow the extremely popular French (also called bigleaf) hydrangea or panicle hydrangea. In northern regions, these same types of hydrangeas will grow in all-day sun.
The name hydrangea contains the root word “hydra” (like in hydration), which gives a clue about how much water these plants need. Make sure the spot you select is close to a water source. Know, too, that French hydrangeas tend to need the most water to thrive.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Hydrangeas
To grow hydrangeas in planting beds, focus on improving the native soil. One simple way to do that is to combine equal parts existing soil and Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs. In warmer regions (zones 7 and warmer), where winter tends to be mild, you can also grow hydrangeas in containers. Create just the right environment for them by filling pots with Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix.
It is worth noting that mophead and lacecap hydrangeas both change flower color based on soil pH, which is a measure of how alkaline or acidic the soil is. Flowers turn pink to red in alkaline soil, and lavender to blue in acidic soil.
When to Plant Hydrangeas
When you see hydrangea plants for sale at local garden centers, that’s usually the right time for planting. This timing will vary by region. For instance, in areas with winter freezing and snow, hydrangeas should be planted in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks). In warmer regions with mild winters, the window for planting hydrangeas is longer, from fall all the way through to early spring.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
How far apart to space plants depends on what type of hydrangea you’re growing. It’s best to check the plant tag. Note that hydrangeas planted in the shade tend to grow a little larger and spread a little more. When planting hydrangeas, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the width of the container the hydrangea came in. Place the plant in the hole so that the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the original pot, then fill in the hole with the 50-50 soil mixture described above. Water well after planting.
How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers
To plant hydrangeas in containers, again check that plants are at the same depth as they were growing previously. How large a container to use depends on how large your hydrangea will grow. Typically, it’s safe to start with a pot 2 inches larger than the container the plant is currently in.How to Water Hydrangeas
Water deeply after planting, making sure to soak the root ball and surrounding soil. If the hydrangeas are dormant (without leaves), you may not need to water again until growth resumes.
Hydrangeas thrive in consistently moist soil. Check the soil at least once a week. When the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Once hydrangeas are established, they typically survive on rainfall, except during times of drought.How to Mulch Hydrangeas
After planting hydrangeas, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick mulch layer around (but not on) the plants. Mulch helps keep soil moist and weeds at bay by blocking the weeds’ growth and access to sunlight. Choose whichever mulch looks best in your landscape: Scotts® bagged mulch, shredded leaves, pine straw, or some other locally available material.
How to Feed Hydrangeas
Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring as new growth appears and again just before summer. Avoid feeding hydrangeas after August, especially in regions with cold winters. A slow-release plant food works well. For best results, try Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Flowering Trees & Shrubs Plant Food, which feeds for up to 3 months.
How to Prune Hydrangeas
When to prune hydrangeas hinges on the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Both French and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood (last year’s stems), so you should prune plants right after flowering is finished. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new growth, which means you can prune stems in late winter to early spring. In general, as long as you give hydrangeas enough elbow room to spread and reach their mature size, you shouldn’t have to do too much pruning beyond cutting out dead or damaged wood.
How to Protect Hydrangeas in Winter
In colder areas, many gardeners erect a burlap screen around oakleaf and French hydrangeas in an effort to help protect flower buds that have already formed for the next year. The most important aspect of winter protection, however, is making sure the hydrangea you’re growing is hardy in your gardening zone.
How to Use Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas can fill multiple roles in the garden. Plant a hydrangea privacy hedge, or use them as a foundation planting around a home. A single hydrangea can be the focal point of a garden, and potted hydrangeas can bring beauty to a deck or entry garden. Hydrangeas also integrate well into mixed borders of shrubs and perennials, and make a natural-looking addition to a woodland setting.
Fresh hydrangea flowers are a favorite for filling vases and adorning wedding bouquets. If you want to dry hydrangea blooms, most experts suggest waiting to let flowers age and dry naturally on the plant. Harvest at the color stage you prefer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月29日
Family - Fabaceae
Stems - Sprawling to clambering or climbing (by means of tendrils on leaves), herbaceous, from taproot, villous, carinate to angled.
Leaves - Alternate, even-pinnate, stipulate, to +13cm long, with +/-10 pairs of leaflets, terminating with a branched tendril. Stipules foliaceous, lance-ovate, to +/-1cm long, villous. Leaflets alternate to subopposite, on short petiolules, linear-oblong to linear-lanceolate, mucronate, entire, to +2cm long, +/-6mm broad, dense pubescent.
Inflorescence - Pedunculate spikiform axillary raceme to +/-7cm long. Peduncle to +/-6cm long, carinate, villous. Pedicels to 2mm long, connected to lower portion of calyx tube. Flowers nodding and secund.
Flowers - Corolla blue-purple, papilionaceous, glabrous. Standard to 1.3cm long, 7mm broad at apex, notched. Wing petals adhering to keel petals. Stamens 10, diadelphous, to 1cm long, glabrous. Style upcurved, pubescent at apex. Ovary compressed, green, glabrous, 6-7mm long, on short gynophore. Calyx tube to 3mm long, villous below(sparse above), bilabiate. Upper lip reduced, with two shallow lobes. Lobes to 1mm long, acuminate. Lower lip 3-lobed. Lateral two lobes to 4mm long, -1mm broad. Central lobe to 6mm long, -1mm broad, villous. Fruit compressed, to 3cm long, 1cm broad, pubescent, few seeded.
Flowering - April - October.
Habitat - Waste ground, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is an aggressive weed in Missouri. Although the flowers are striking, it should not be willingly spread. Plants with the typical blue-purple flowers are V. villosa f. villosa. Another form of the plant, V. villosa f. albiflora (Schur) Gams. was recently found in the state. This form has pure white flowers and can be found in the "White Flowers Alternate" section of this website.
Stems - Sprawling to clambering or climbing (by means of tendrils on leaves), herbaceous, from taproot, villous, carinate to angled.
Leaves - Alternate, even-pinnate, stipulate, to +13cm long, with +/-10 pairs of leaflets, terminating with a branched tendril. Stipules foliaceous, lance-ovate, to +/-1cm long, villous. Leaflets alternate to subopposite, on short petiolules, linear-oblong to linear-lanceolate, mucronate, entire, to +2cm long, +/-6mm broad, dense pubescent.
Inflorescence - Pedunculate spikiform axillary raceme to +/-7cm long. Peduncle to +/-6cm long, carinate, villous. Pedicels to 2mm long, connected to lower portion of calyx tube. Flowers nodding and secund.
Flowers - Corolla blue-purple, papilionaceous, glabrous. Standard to 1.3cm long, 7mm broad at apex, notched. Wing petals adhering to keel petals. Stamens 10, diadelphous, to 1cm long, glabrous. Style upcurved, pubescent at apex. Ovary compressed, green, glabrous, 6-7mm long, on short gynophore. Calyx tube to 3mm long, villous below(sparse above), bilabiate. Upper lip reduced, with two shallow lobes. Lobes to 1mm long, acuminate. Lower lip 3-lobed. Lateral two lobes to 4mm long, -1mm broad. Central lobe to 6mm long, -1mm broad, villous. Fruit compressed, to 3cm long, 1cm broad, pubescent, few seeded.
Flowering - April - October.
Habitat - Waste ground, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is an aggressive weed in Missouri. Although the flowers are striking, it should not be willingly spread. Plants with the typical blue-purple flowers are V. villosa f. villosa. Another form of the plant, V. villosa f. albiflora (Schur) Gams. was recently found in the state. This form has pure white flowers and can be found in the "White Flowers Alternate" section of this website.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月29日
Family - Fabaceae
Stems - Sprawling to clambering or climbing(by means of tendrils on leaves), glabrous to sparse pubescent, carinate to angled, herbaceous, from taproot.
Leaves - Alternate, stipulate, even-pinnate, terminating with branched tendrils. Stipules 1cm long, 2mm broad, often with a small lateral lobe, ciliate margined, appressed pubescent. Leaflets in +/-8 pairs, subopposite, oblong to elliptic-oblong, entire, mucronate, to 2.5cm long, 6mm broad, with sparse antrorse appressed pubescence. Petiolules to 1mm long, sparse pilose.
Inflorescence - Axillary pedunculate racemes to +/-10cm long. Peduncle glabrous to sparse pubescent. Pedicels 1mm long, attached to lower portion of calyx tube. Flowers nodding and secund.
Flowers - Corolla glabrous, 1.5-2cm long, papilionaceous, typically purplish or rarely white. Keel and wing petals often lighter than standard. Stamens 10. diadelphous, glabrous. Ovary glabrous, compressed, 5mm long, green. Style pubescent, 1.5-2mm long. Calyx weakly bilabiate, purplish. Tube 3mm long, glabrous to sparse appressed pubescent. Upper lip 2-lobed. Lobes acute, 1.1mm long. Lower lip 3-lobed. Lobes linear. Central lobe to 3mm long. Fruit compressed, glabrous, +/-3.5cm long, 1cm broad.
Flowering - May - October.
Habitat - Open ground, prairies, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is very weedy in Missouri. It strongly resembles another weed, V. villosa Roth, but the latter has very villous stems and leaves, and flowers which are more of a bluish color. Some authors don't distinguish between these two species, lumping them both under V. villosa.
Stems - Sprawling to clambering or climbing(by means of tendrils on leaves), glabrous to sparse pubescent, carinate to angled, herbaceous, from taproot.
Leaves - Alternate, stipulate, even-pinnate, terminating with branched tendrils. Stipules 1cm long, 2mm broad, often with a small lateral lobe, ciliate margined, appressed pubescent. Leaflets in +/-8 pairs, subopposite, oblong to elliptic-oblong, entire, mucronate, to 2.5cm long, 6mm broad, with sparse antrorse appressed pubescence. Petiolules to 1mm long, sparse pilose.
Inflorescence - Axillary pedunculate racemes to +/-10cm long. Peduncle glabrous to sparse pubescent. Pedicels 1mm long, attached to lower portion of calyx tube. Flowers nodding and secund.
Flowers - Corolla glabrous, 1.5-2cm long, papilionaceous, typically purplish or rarely white. Keel and wing petals often lighter than standard. Stamens 10. diadelphous, glabrous. Ovary glabrous, compressed, 5mm long, green. Style pubescent, 1.5-2mm long. Calyx weakly bilabiate, purplish. Tube 3mm long, glabrous to sparse appressed pubescent. Upper lip 2-lobed. Lobes acute, 1.1mm long. Lower lip 3-lobed. Lobes linear. Central lobe to 3mm long. Fruit compressed, glabrous, +/-3.5cm long, 1cm broad.
Flowering - May - October.
Habitat - Open ground, prairies, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This species is very weedy in Missouri. It strongly resembles another weed, V. villosa Roth, but the latter has very villous stems and leaves, and flowers which are more of a bluish color. Some authors don't distinguish between these two species, lumping them both under V. villosa.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月29日
Family - Fabaceae
Stems - Vining, trailing or climbing, somewhat woody, villous to hirsute.
Leaves - Alternate, trifoliolate, long-petiolate. Leaflets ovate, orbicular, or rhombic, entire or lobed, pubescent below, glabrous above, to 15cm long. Petiolule of middle leaflet much longer than those of lateral leaflets, all are pubescent (villous).
Inflorescence - Indeterminate, axillary raceme to +20cm long.
Flowers - Papilionaceous. Corolla blue-purple on outer surface, reddish-purple on interior. Standard with yellow splotch at base. Fruits compressed, oblong to linear-oblong, to +7cm long, +1cm broad, villous, the hairs reddish.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Borders of wooded areas.
Origin - Native to Asia.
Other info. - Kudzu is one of the most famous weed pests in the south. The vines can cover entire wooded areas killing or stunting all the vegetation below with shade.
The species was originally brought to the U.S. as ground cover and fodder and now much research time is being devoted to its eradication.
Stems - Vining, trailing or climbing, somewhat woody, villous to hirsute.
Leaves - Alternate, trifoliolate, long-petiolate. Leaflets ovate, orbicular, or rhombic, entire or lobed, pubescent below, glabrous above, to 15cm long. Petiolule of middle leaflet much longer than those of lateral leaflets, all are pubescent (villous).
Inflorescence - Indeterminate, axillary raceme to +20cm long.
Flowers - Papilionaceous. Corolla blue-purple on outer surface, reddish-purple on interior. Standard with yellow splotch at base. Fruits compressed, oblong to linear-oblong, to +7cm long, +1cm broad, villous, the hairs reddish.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Borders of wooded areas.
Origin - Native to Asia.
Other info. - Kudzu is one of the most famous weed pests in the south. The vines can cover entire wooded areas killing or stunting all the vegetation below with shade.
The species was originally brought to the U.S. as ground cover and fodder and now much research time is being devoted to its eradication.
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