文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月11日
Climbing hydrangea (hydrangea anomala petiolaris) provides all of the beauty of a traditional hydrangea bush, but in a trailing variety used to add visual interest to walls or fences. Native to Asia, this hydrangea species yields flowering deciduous vines and is best planted or transplanted in the late spring. A true climber, hydrangea anomala petiolaris contains holdfasts (suckers) on its branches, allowing it to scale structures without the use of a trellis.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月18日
Bougainvillea is not your typical houseplant—in its natural state, it's a sprawling climber and shrub with formidable thorns, often found on the exterior of buildings (like climbing up a trellis or over a fence) or in gardens in subtropical-to-tropical climates. Native to South America, bougainvillea was named in honor of Louis Antoine de Bougainville, a sailor and explorer during the late 1700s. Best planted in the spring, bougainvillea is a quick grower, often adding more than 36 inches in length per year. It's known for its green foliage and vibrant pink, purple, and orange hues that most people assume are the plant's flowers—however, they're actually petal-like bracts that hide bougainvillea's true blooms, which are typically small white or yellow buds.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea
Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower
Plant type Perennial shrub
Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun exposure Full sun
Soil type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom time Spring, summer, fall
Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow
Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native area South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets
Bougainvillea Care
Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors.
Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth.
Light
Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues.
Soil
When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot.
Water
Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer
Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too.
Potting & Repotting
When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years.
Common Pests & Diseases
Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月24日
Named for its resemblance to the popular hardy garden flower black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.), the black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata) is instead a tender perennial climbing yet bushy vine that is normally grown as an annual. It is a great plant for containers and hanging baskets and is particularly beloved for its distinctive flowers in vivid orange, yellow, and other colors. The flowers have dark centers, like the other black-eyed Susans, and the vine blooms for many weeks in the summer and into fall.
Black-eyed Susan vine is a diminutive vine that grows to a maximum of about 8 feet in temperate zones or when grown in containers, although it can grow to 20 feet in frost-free zones, where the plant is evergreen. The leaves are arrow- or heart-shaped and up to 3 inches long. This vine climbs by winding its way up support structures rather than clinging with tendrils.
Also called clockvine, the black-eyed Susan vine is grown as an annual in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 but can be grown as a perennial in zones 10 and 11.
Botanical Name Thunbergia alata
Common Name Black-Eyed Susan vine
Plant Type Flowering vine, annual or perennial
Mature Size 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Summer (as an annual)
Flower Color Orange, white, yellow, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA)
Native Area East Africa
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Care
Black-eyed Susan vines are usually planted as annuals in containers or hanging baskets with mixed plantings, but they can also be planted in the ground to cover trellises, arbors, fences, and other structures. The plant works well to cascade down over retaining walls, and it can also serve as a ground cover. Aesthetically, it presents very well when combined with plants that have purple leaves or flowers.
If propagating or growing from seed, it's best to provide vertical structure in the ground or pots, for the vines before they need them, preferably before planting, so you don't have to disrupt the young plants later. You can simply plant them near a fence (with a post or planks they can climb), stand up a cage structure, or erect a tripod, or a tall pole.
Light
Grow these plants in full sun to part shade. Some afternoon shade is beneficial, especially in warmer climates, as the hottest sun's rays may be damaging.
Soil
Plant a black-eyed Susan vine in soil that is rich, fertile, and well-drained with medium moisture-retention properties. It prefers a soil pH that is close to neutral.
Water
Water regularly and deeply to keep the soil moist but not wet. If the leaves begin to wilt, the soil is probably too dry and needs a bit more water. In containers, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
The black-eyed Susan vine thrives in warm, humid climates, which explains why it is invasive in tropical areas. However, it will grow anywhere in its zone range, provided it gets enough water. It tends to flower best after the hottest days of the summer are over.
Fertilizer
Feed the plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during their bloom season. Follow the package directions, but in many cases, it's best to use a half-strength solution of fertilizer designed to boost blooming.
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Varieties
Cultivars of Thunbergia alata have very similar foliage and overall habits and are mostly distinguished by flower color.
'Angel Wings': White flowers
'African Sunset': Dark red-purple flowers
'Arizona Dark Red': Deep orange-red flowers
'Blushing Susie': Apricot and rose flowers
'Canary Eyes': Yellow flowers
'Lemon A-Peel': Bright yellow flowers with a very dark center
'Orange Wonder': Bright orange flowers with no dark center
'Raspberry Smoothie': Pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green foliage
'Superstar Orange': Extra-large orange flowers
'Susie' mix: Orange, yellow, and white flowers with or without contrasting centers
Propagating Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Propagating this vine from stem cuttings is easy and it's usually best done over the winter.
Take a cutting several inches from a terminal end of a healthy plant.
Remove the bottom leaves of the cutting.
Place the cutting in a glass of water to root.
Change the water in the glass every two or so days.
When the roots thicken, plant it in a well-draining pot in potting soil.
Grow the plant until spring and then transplant outdoors after the threat of frost has passed.
How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vines From Seed
This vine is easily started from seeds sown directly in the garden after the last expected frost date (when the soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit). In colder climates, nursery transplants are normally used; or, you can start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination occurs about 10 to 14 days after sowing in warmer temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and up to 20 days in cooler temperatures.
Potting and Repotting Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Black-eyed Susan vines grown in large pots with vertical structures can make beautiful decorations outdoors as well as inside your home. You can set a pair flanking a front door or define the edges of a patio or outdoor sitting area. Indoors, a pot of climbing vine can brighten the corner of a sunroom or even a large, bright bathroom.
Indoor vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed container plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during the blooming period.
Overwintering
Move potted vines indoors so the vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed indoor wintering container plants every two to three weeks during the cold season's blooming period.
Common Pests & Diseases
This showy vine is free of most serious insect or disease problems when grown outdoors, but indoors the plants can have problems with scale, spider mites, and whiteflies. Typically, these can be managed with neem oil or horticultural soap.
Black-eyed Susan vine is a diminutive vine that grows to a maximum of about 8 feet in temperate zones or when grown in containers, although it can grow to 20 feet in frost-free zones, where the plant is evergreen. The leaves are arrow- or heart-shaped and up to 3 inches long. This vine climbs by winding its way up support structures rather than clinging with tendrils.
Also called clockvine, the black-eyed Susan vine is grown as an annual in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 but can be grown as a perennial in zones 10 and 11.
Botanical Name Thunbergia alata
Common Name Black-Eyed Susan vine
Plant Type Flowering vine, annual or perennial
Mature Size 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Summer (as an annual)
Flower Color Orange, white, yellow, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA)
Native Area East Africa
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Care
Black-eyed Susan vines are usually planted as annuals in containers or hanging baskets with mixed plantings, but they can also be planted in the ground to cover trellises, arbors, fences, and other structures. The plant works well to cascade down over retaining walls, and it can also serve as a ground cover. Aesthetically, it presents very well when combined with plants that have purple leaves or flowers.
If propagating or growing from seed, it's best to provide vertical structure in the ground or pots, for the vines before they need them, preferably before planting, so you don't have to disrupt the young plants later. You can simply plant them near a fence (with a post or planks they can climb), stand up a cage structure, or erect a tripod, or a tall pole.
Light
Grow these plants in full sun to part shade. Some afternoon shade is beneficial, especially in warmer climates, as the hottest sun's rays may be damaging.
Soil
Plant a black-eyed Susan vine in soil that is rich, fertile, and well-drained with medium moisture-retention properties. It prefers a soil pH that is close to neutral.
Water
Water regularly and deeply to keep the soil moist but not wet. If the leaves begin to wilt, the soil is probably too dry and needs a bit more water. In containers, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
The black-eyed Susan vine thrives in warm, humid climates, which explains why it is invasive in tropical areas. However, it will grow anywhere in its zone range, provided it gets enough water. It tends to flower best after the hottest days of the summer are over.
Fertilizer
Feed the plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during their bloom season. Follow the package directions, but in many cases, it's best to use a half-strength solution of fertilizer designed to boost blooming.
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Varieties
Cultivars of Thunbergia alata have very similar foliage and overall habits and are mostly distinguished by flower color.
'Angel Wings': White flowers
'African Sunset': Dark red-purple flowers
'Arizona Dark Red': Deep orange-red flowers
'Blushing Susie': Apricot and rose flowers
'Canary Eyes': Yellow flowers
'Lemon A-Peel': Bright yellow flowers with a very dark center
'Orange Wonder': Bright orange flowers with no dark center
'Raspberry Smoothie': Pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green foliage
'Superstar Orange': Extra-large orange flowers
'Susie' mix: Orange, yellow, and white flowers with or without contrasting centers
Propagating Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Propagating this vine from stem cuttings is easy and it's usually best done over the winter.
Take a cutting several inches from a terminal end of a healthy plant.
Remove the bottom leaves of the cutting.
Place the cutting in a glass of water to root.
Change the water in the glass every two or so days.
When the roots thicken, plant it in a well-draining pot in potting soil.
Grow the plant until spring and then transplant outdoors after the threat of frost has passed.
How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vines From Seed
This vine is easily started from seeds sown directly in the garden after the last expected frost date (when the soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit). In colder climates, nursery transplants are normally used; or, you can start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination occurs about 10 to 14 days after sowing in warmer temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and up to 20 days in cooler temperatures.
Potting and Repotting Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Black-eyed Susan vines grown in large pots with vertical structures can make beautiful decorations outdoors as well as inside your home. You can set a pair flanking a front door or define the edges of a patio or outdoor sitting area. Indoors, a pot of climbing vine can brighten the corner of a sunroom or even a large, bright bathroom.
Indoor vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed container plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during the blooming period.
Overwintering
Move potted vines indoors so the vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed indoor wintering container plants every two to three weeks during the cold season's blooming period.
Common Pests & Diseases
This showy vine is free of most serious insect or disease problems when grown outdoors, but indoors the plants can have problems with scale, spider mites, and whiteflies. Typically, these can be managed with neem oil or horticultural soap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月15日
The arrowhead vine is a pretty trailing or climbing vine that tends to grow quickly under the right conditions. Native to a wide region of South America, it has become a popular houseplant, thanks to its easy-going nature and appealing hanging shape.
The arrowhead vine's leaf structure changes as it matures, going from a simple arrow shape to a deeply lobed or divided mature leaf. Its leaves can vary in hue depending on their age, ranging from dark green and white to lime green and bright pink. Arrowhead vine is only viable outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 10 through 12, so in most locations in the United States, it is grown year-round as a houseplant. The vine does best if left relatively alone, making it a great pick for novice gardeners or those who just forget to tend to their in-home garden frequently.
Botanical Name Syngonium podophyllum
Common Name Arrowhead vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely flowers)
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Arrowhead Vine Care
Arrowhead vine is a relatively easy houseplant to care for—it will thrive under the same conditions as its very popular relative, the philodendron. Arrowhead vines are climbers in the wild and will eventually grow from shade into full sun in the canopy of trees, with leaves maturing and gaining size as the plants gain altitude. As a houseplant, they're often used as trailing plants once mature and can be trained up a pole or moss stick for added visual interest. Alternately, you can pinch new growth to maintain the young plant's upright stems.
Tropical in nature, arrowhead vines are perfect for a sunroom or greenhouse conservatory where ample heat, light, and humidity will encourage their growth. Provide your arrowhead vine with the right growing conditions, and you will have a lush and healthy plant.
Light
Arrowhead vine likes bright light but no direct sun. Diffused light is best, as harsh rays can burn or bleach the delicate leaves and vines. Variegated colorways can handle a bit more direct sun, while deeper green varieties are better adapted to partial shade.
Soil
Plant your arrowhead vine in a traditional soil-based potting mix. Arrowhead vines are prone to root rot, so you'll want to make sure whichever potting soil you choose is well-draining. Additionally, consider planting your vine in a terracotta or clay vessel to wick away extra moisture from the soil.
Water
Water your arrowhead vine regularly during the spring and summer months, and reduce your watering cadence come winter. During the spring and summer, you want to allow your vine to dry out partially between waterings but never completely. Likewise, the plant should not be kept too wet, either.
Temperature and Humidity
True to its tropical nature, arrowhead vine prefers warm and humid conditions. If possible, maintain temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While the plant can tolerate average humidity, it will thrive best with added moisture in the air. Consider keeping your plant somewhere in your home with naturally higher humidity (like a kitchen or bathroom), or utilize a method of increasing humidity, like a portable machine or placing a bed of wet river rocks beneath the pot.
Fertilizer
Feed your arrowhead vine once a month with liquid fertilizer throughout the spring, summer, and fall months. You can halt feeding throughout winter when the plant will naturally slow its growth.
Propagating Arrowhead Vine
Arrowhead vine plants root readily from stem cuttings and can easily be propagated in the spring or summer months. If your plant has aerial roots along the stem, take a section of the stem with attached roots to increase your odds of success.
To propagate arrowhead vine, place your cutting into a glass of water—within a few weeks, you'll notice new roots have begun to form. Wait at least a month until the roots have strengthened, topping off the water periodically. At that point, you can plant the cutting into the soil as you normally would.
Repotting Arrowhead Vine
These plants are aggressive, rapid-growing vines, so the frequency of repotting depends somewhat on how big you want the vine to get. Repot yearly for a larger vine. Otherwise, refresh potting media every spring and repot every other year to ensure the plant does not become root-bound.
Common Pests and Diseases
Arrowhead vine is relatively resistant to pests on its own. However, dwelling in the home amongst other plants can expose it to pests like spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and scale. If you notice any of these afflictions, treat your plant immediately with neem oil or another natural solution.
The arrowhead vine's leaf structure changes as it matures, going from a simple arrow shape to a deeply lobed or divided mature leaf. Its leaves can vary in hue depending on their age, ranging from dark green and white to lime green and bright pink. Arrowhead vine is only viable outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 10 through 12, so in most locations in the United States, it is grown year-round as a houseplant. The vine does best if left relatively alone, making it a great pick for novice gardeners or those who just forget to tend to their in-home garden frequently.
Botanical Name Syngonium podophyllum
Common Name Arrowhead vine
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely flowers)
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Arrowhead Vine Care
Arrowhead vine is a relatively easy houseplant to care for—it will thrive under the same conditions as its very popular relative, the philodendron. Arrowhead vines are climbers in the wild and will eventually grow from shade into full sun in the canopy of trees, with leaves maturing and gaining size as the plants gain altitude. As a houseplant, they're often used as trailing plants once mature and can be trained up a pole or moss stick for added visual interest. Alternately, you can pinch new growth to maintain the young plant's upright stems.
Tropical in nature, arrowhead vines are perfect for a sunroom or greenhouse conservatory where ample heat, light, and humidity will encourage their growth. Provide your arrowhead vine with the right growing conditions, and you will have a lush and healthy plant.
Light
Arrowhead vine likes bright light but no direct sun. Diffused light is best, as harsh rays can burn or bleach the delicate leaves and vines. Variegated colorways can handle a bit more direct sun, while deeper green varieties are better adapted to partial shade.
Soil
Plant your arrowhead vine in a traditional soil-based potting mix. Arrowhead vines are prone to root rot, so you'll want to make sure whichever potting soil you choose is well-draining. Additionally, consider planting your vine in a terracotta or clay vessel to wick away extra moisture from the soil.
Water
Water your arrowhead vine regularly during the spring and summer months, and reduce your watering cadence come winter. During the spring and summer, you want to allow your vine to dry out partially between waterings but never completely. Likewise, the plant should not be kept too wet, either.
Temperature and Humidity
True to its tropical nature, arrowhead vine prefers warm and humid conditions. If possible, maintain temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While the plant can tolerate average humidity, it will thrive best with added moisture in the air. Consider keeping your plant somewhere in your home with naturally higher humidity (like a kitchen or bathroom), or utilize a method of increasing humidity, like a portable machine or placing a bed of wet river rocks beneath the pot.
Fertilizer
Feed your arrowhead vine once a month with liquid fertilizer throughout the spring, summer, and fall months. You can halt feeding throughout winter when the plant will naturally slow its growth.
Propagating Arrowhead Vine
Arrowhead vine plants root readily from stem cuttings and can easily be propagated in the spring or summer months. If your plant has aerial roots along the stem, take a section of the stem with attached roots to increase your odds of success.
To propagate arrowhead vine, place your cutting into a glass of water—within a few weeks, you'll notice new roots have begun to form. Wait at least a month until the roots have strengthened, topping off the water periodically. At that point, you can plant the cutting into the soil as you normally would.
Repotting Arrowhead Vine
These plants are aggressive, rapid-growing vines, so the frequency of repotting depends somewhat on how big you want the vine to get. Repot yearly for a larger vine. Otherwise, refresh potting media every spring and repot every other year to ensure the plant does not become root-bound.
Common Pests and Diseases
Arrowhead vine is relatively resistant to pests on its own. However, dwelling in the home amongst other plants can expose it to pests like spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and scale. If you notice any of these afflictions, treat your plant immediately with neem oil or another natural solution.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white.
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
莹723
2021年01月13日
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is one of the easiest hardy annual flowers to grow, producing masses of vividly coloured blooms through summer and autumn. They’re perfect for growing with children. Nasturtiums come in both bushy and climbing varieties, which makes them splendidly versatile.
Some varieties have attractively marbled or mottled leaves. Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible too. Bees love the colourful nasturtium blooms, and caterpillars of the large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves.
Being annuals, nasturtiums complete their lifecycle in one growing season.
——How to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are ideal for lots of different sunny spots around the garden, including pots. Climbing varieties of nasturtium can be trained up vertical supports and are great to twine through other plants too.
Nasturtiums that are climbers can also be used as trailers – to spread across gravel or cascade down a slope or bank. Free-draining soil is essential for nasturtiums and, unlike many other flowers, they thrive on poor soils.
——Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums must have sun for at least half the day in order to grow well and do best in sites sheltered from winds. A free-draining soil is essential, and nasturtiums flower best in poor soils (that are low in fertility) as a fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Hence there’s no need to add fertilizer before sowing.
Nasturtiums do well in gravelly or stony ground or growing on banks. In containers, mix two-thirds peat-free multi-purpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage.
——How to plant nasturtiums
For best results, sow nasturtium directly where they are to flower, as they’re fast-growing and there’s no need to bother about transplanting. Sow the seed 1.5 cm deep into moist soil to speed germination, so water before planting if conditions are dry.
The first seeds can be sown in mid-spring and you can carry on sowing until mid-summer to ensure flowers right up to the first frosts. Thin the seedlings to 30 cm apart.
However, sowing in pot also works – simply sow one seed per pot and transplant outside when all risk of frost has passed.
——How to care for nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are easy-care and need little maintenance. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but not fed. Removing the dead flower heads of nasturtiums will encourage more blooms to be produced for a longer period.
——How to propagate nasturtiums
Nasturtium seeds can be collected when ripe and saved to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
——How to harvest and use nasturtiums
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers make a brightly coloured garnish to salads and other uncooked dishes. Nasturtium leaves have a peppery taste and should be picked when young to incorporate in salads. Nasturtium seeds can be used as a substitute for capers and should be picked when mature but still green, for pickling in vinegar.
——Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don’t mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. By planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you’re growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
——Nasturtium varieties to grow
Choose from mixed flower colours or opt for individually coloured varieties to create coordinated planted schemes.
• Nasturtium ‘Alaska’ – flowers in yellow, orange and red are shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy, 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Empress of India’ – crimson-red flowers and dark reddish leaves. 25 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Milkmaid’ – Creamy-white flowers on climbing/trailing stems. 180 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Paintbox Mixed’ – a mix of brightly coloured flowers that are more upward facing and hence visible than most. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Salmon Baby’. Bright salmon pink flowers. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Tip Top Velvet’. Dark red blooms that show off well against fresh green foliage. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Trailing Mixed’, ‘Tall Mixed’. Masses of orange, yellow and red blooms on long stems that can climb or trail. 180 cm high.
Some varieties have attractively marbled or mottled leaves. Nasturtiums not only look spectacular but the flowers, leaves and seeds are edible too. Bees love the colourful nasturtium blooms, and caterpillars of the large and small white butterflies feed on the leaves.
Being annuals, nasturtiums complete their lifecycle in one growing season.
——How to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are ideal for lots of different sunny spots around the garden, including pots. Climbing varieties of nasturtium can be trained up vertical supports and are great to twine through other plants too.
Nasturtiums that are climbers can also be used as trailers – to spread across gravel or cascade down a slope or bank. Free-draining soil is essential for nasturtiums and, unlike many other flowers, they thrive on poor soils.
——Where to grow nasturtiums
Nasturtiums must have sun for at least half the day in order to grow well and do best in sites sheltered from winds. A free-draining soil is essential, and nasturtiums flower best in poor soils (that are low in fertility) as a fertile soil results in lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Hence there’s no need to add fertilizer before sowing.
Nasturtiums do well in gravelly or stony ground or growing on banks. In containers, mix two-thirds peat-free multi-purpose compost with one third fine gravel or grit, to reduce fertility and ensure good drainage.
——How to plant nasturtiums
For best results, sow nasturtium directly where they are to flower, as they’re fast-growing and there’s no need to bother about transplanting. Sow the seed 1.5 cm deep into moist soil to speed germination, so water before planting if conditions are dry.
The first seeds can be sown in mid-spring and you can carry on sowing until mid-summer to ensure flowers right up to the first frosts. Thin the seedlings to 30 cm apart.
However, sowing in pot also works – simply sow one seed per pot and transplant outside when all risk of frost has passed.
——How to care for nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are easy-care and need little maintenance. Plants growing in containers should be watered to keep the compost evenly moist, but not fed. Removing the dead flower heads of nasturtiums will encourage more blooms to be produced for a longer period.
——How to propagate nasturtiums
Nasturtium seeds can be collected when ripe and saved to sow next year. In mild areas, nasturtiums are also likely to self-sow, so you may get seedlings springing up in future years. These can be easily pulled up if not wanted.
——How to harvest and use nasturtiums
Nasturtium leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible. The flowers make a brightly coloured garnish to salads and other uncooked dishes. Nasturtium leaves have a peppery taste and should be picked when young to incorporate in salads. Nasturtium seeds can be used as a substitute for capers and should be picked when mature but still green, for pickling in vinegar.
——Growing nasturtiums: problem solving
Nasturtiums are likely to attract large and small white butterflies (known as cabbage white butterflies) which lay their large greenish eggs on the leaf undersides, which hatch into caterpillars that eat the leaves. This can be useful to deter caterpillars from eating brassica crops but not desirable if you’re growing nasturtiums for flowers. The best method of control is to inspect plants regularly and squash the eggs or young caterpillars, or move them on to plants you don’t mind being eaten.
Nasturtiums are also attractive to aphids, particularly blackfly. By planting nasturtiums alongside bean crops you can lure aphids away from your crop, but you may not appreciate aphids on nasturtiums you’re growing for leaves and flowers. Spray them off with a jet of water or let ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings remove them for you – all three lay their eggs on aphid colonies and their young quickly eat them up.
——Nasturtium varieties to grow
Choose from mixed flower colours or opt for individually coloured varieties to create coordinated planted schemes.
• Nasturtium ‘Alaska’ – flowers in yellow, orange and red are shown off against cream and green marbled leaves. Bushy, 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Empress of India’ – crimson-red flowers and dark reddish leaves. 25 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Milkmaid’ – Creamy-white flowers on climbing/trailing stems. 180 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Paintbox Mixed’ – a mix of brightly coloured flowers that are more upward facing and hence visible than most. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Salmon Baby’. Bright salmon pink flowers. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Tip Top Velvet’. Dark red blooms that show off well against fresh green foliage. 30 cm high.
• Nasturtium ‘Trailing Mixed’, ‘Tall Mixed’. Masses of orange, yellow and red blooms on long stems that can climb or trail. 180 cm high.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月21日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over three hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing, or trailing, with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
The long cultural history of the rose has led to it being used often as a symbol. In ancient Greece, the rose was closely associated with the goddess Aphrodite. In the Iliad, Aphrodite protects the body of Hector using the "immortal oil of the rose" and the archaic Greek lyric poet Ibycus praises a beautiful youth saying that Aphrodite nursed him "among rose blossoms". The second-century AD Greek travel writer Pausanias associates the rose with the story of Adonis and states that the rose is red because Aphrodite wounded herself on one of its thorns and stained the flower red with her blood. Book Eleven of the ancient Roman novel The Golden Ass by Apuleius contains a scene in which the goddess Isis, who is identified with Venus, instructs the main character, Lucius, who has been transformed into a donkey, to eat rose petals from a crown of roses worn by a priest as part of a religious procession in order to regain his humanity.
Following the Christianization of the Roman Empire, the rose became identified with the Virgin Mary. The color of the rose and the number of roses received has symbolic representation. The rose symbol eventually led to the creation of the rosary and other devotional prayers in Christianity.
Ever since the 1400s, the Franciscans have had a Crown Rosary of the Seven Joys of the Blessed Virgin Mary. In the 1400s and 1500s, the Carthusians promoted the idea of sacred mysteries associated with the rose symbol and rose gardens. Albrecht Dürer's painting The Feast of the Rosary (1506) depicts the Virgin Mary distributing garlands of roses to her worshippers.
Roses symbolised the Houses of York and Lancaster in a conflict known as the Wars of the Roses.
Roses are a favored subject in art and appear in portraits, illustrations, on stamps, as ornaments or as architectural elements. The Luxembourg-born Belgian artist and botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté is known for his detailed watercolours of flowers, particularly roses.
Henri Fantin-Latour was also a prolific painter of still life, particularly flowers including roses. The rose 'Fantin-Latour' was named after the artist.
Other impressionists including Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir have paintings of roses among their works.
In 1986 President Ronald Reagan signed legislation to make the rose the floral emblem of the United States.
The long cultural history of the rose has led to it being used often as a symbol. In ancient Greece, the rose was closely associated with the goddess Aphrodite. In the Iliad, Aphrodite protects the body of Hector using the "immortal oil of the rose" and the archaic Greek lyric poet Ibycus praises a beautiful youth saying that Aphrodite nursed him "among rose blossoms". The second-century AD Greek travel writer Pausanias associates the rose with the story of Adonis and states that the rose is red because Aphrodite wounded herself on one of its thorns and stained the flower red with her blood. Book Eleven of the ancient Roman novel The Golden Ass by Apuleius contains a scene in which the goddess Isis, who is identified with Venus, instructs the main character, Lucius, who has been transformed into a donkey, to eat rose petals from a crown of roses worn by a priest as part of a religious procession in order to regain his humanity.
Following the Christianization of the Roman Empire, the rose became identified with the Virgin Mary. The color of the rose and the number of roses received has symbolic representation. The rose symbol eventually led to the creation of the rosary and other devotional prayers in Christianity.
Ever since the 1400s, the Franciscans have had a Crown Rosary of the Seven Joys of the Blessed Virgin Mary. In the 1400s and 1500s, the Carthusians promoted the idea of sacred mysteries associated with the rose symbol and rose gardens. Albrecht Dürer's painting The Feast of the Rosary (1506) depicts the Virgin Mary distributing garlands of roses to her worshippers.
Roses symbolised the Houses of York and Lancaster in a conflict known as the Wars of the Roses.
Roses are a favored subject in art and appear in portraits, illustrations, on stamps, as ornaments or as architectural elements. The Luxembourg-born Belgian artist and botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté is known for his detailed watercolours of flowers, particularly roses.
Henri Fantin-Latour was also a prolific painter of still life, particularly flowers including roses. The rose 'Fantin-Latour' was named after the artist.
Other impressionists including Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir have paintings of roses among their works.
In 1986 President Ronald Reagan signed legislation to make the rose the floral emblem of the United States.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Description: This plant is a trailing or climbing annual vine about 3-9' long that branches occasionally. The slender stems are light green, gray-green, or dull red, terete, and hairy; they can climb by twining around the stems or branches of neighboring plants. Alternate trifoliate leaves occur at intervals along the stems. The leaflets are 1-2" long and ½–1¼" across; the terminal leaflet is usually a little larger than the lateral leaflets. The leaflets are broadly lanceolate to ovate with well-rounded bases and smooth margins; the terminal leaflet has a short stalk at its base (petiolule), while the lateral leaflets are nearly sessile. For this variety of Strophostyles helvula, the leaflets lack obtuse basal lobes, unlike the typical variety. The upper leaflet surfaces are medium green and hairless (or nearly so), while their lowers surfaces are pale green and hairless (or nearly so). The slender petioles of the trifoliate leaves are about 1-2" long; they are usually slightly pubescent. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of tiny linear-lanceolate stipules.
At the axils of some leaves, there develops individual stalks (peduncles) of flowers; these stalks are 3-6" long. At the apex of each stalk, there is a dense cluster of 3-10 nearly sessile flowers; usually only 1-2 flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is about 1/3" long or a little more, its petals consisting of a large rounded banner, a pair of slender lateral petals, and a narrow keel that is curled upward. These petals are light pink to pink, fading to white or pale green; at the bottom of the banner, there is a small patch of yellow. At the base of each flower, there is a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth; this calyx is sparsely hairy. At the base of each calyx, there are lanceolate tiny bracts with pointed tips that are about the same length as the calyx. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. Each fertile flower is replaced by a cylindrical seedpod that is 2–3½" long at maturity. The seedpod is initially green, but later becomes dark brown; it is nearly glabrous to sparsely hairy. Individual seeds are about ¼" long, oblongoid in shape, and pubescent. Each seedpod eventually divides into two parts to disperse the seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing sand, loam, silt, or gravelly soil. The root system can fix nitrogen in the soil.
Range & Habitat: This native wildflower is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map); the map does not differentiate between var. missouriensis and the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean). Missouri Fuzzy Bean is less common than the typical variety and it is found primarily in counties along the Mississippi River. Habitats of both varieties include open woodlands (including sandy and rocky woodlands), thickets and sandy thickets, riverbanks, sand bars and gravel bars along rivers, abandoned fields, and areas along railroads. Habitats with some history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by bees, especially Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) and bumblebees. One bee species, Megachile integra, is a specialist pollinator (oligolege) of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Missouri Fuzzy Bean also has extra-floral nectaries, which attract primarily wasps, flies, ants, and small Halictid bees. The extra-floral nectaries may prevent nectar thieves (e.g., ants) from stealing nectar from the flowers, or they may attract insects (e.g., ants & wasps) that help to protect the plant from insects that feed on the foliage. Insect feeders of the foliage include the caterpillars of Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), and Urbanus proteus (Long-Tailed Skipper). The leaf beetles Cerotoma trifurcata and Sumitrosis ancoroides also feed on the foliage. The seeds are eaten by such birds as the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Mourning Dove, while the foliage is readily consumed by cattle, deer, and probably other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Missouri Fuzzy Bean is one of several species in the Fabaceae (Bean family) that are vines. It has fairly typical pea-like flowers for species in this family, except that the keels of the flowers curl upward in an odd manner. Another distinctive characteristic of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans) is the production of dense clusters of flowers on long stalks (although only a few flowers bloom at the same time per cluster). The common name 'Fuzzy Bean' refers to the hairiness of the seedpods and/or the pubescent seeds of many species in this genus. As already mentioned, Missouri Fuzzy Bean differs from the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean), by the lack of obtuse basal lobes on its leaflets. Because of this characteristic, Missouri Fuzzy Bean can be difficult to distinguish from Strophostyles umbellata (Perennial Fuzzy Bean), which has similar leaflets. For Missouri Fuzzy Bean, the tiny bracts at the base of each flower are about as long as the calyx and they have pointed tips. In contrast, the tiny bracts of Perennial Fuzzy Bean are only one-half as long as the calyx and they have blunt tips. Another species, Strophostyles leiosperma (Small Fuzzy Bean), has smaller leaves and flowers, while the calyx of each flower is densely hairy. Sometimes the scientific name Strophostyles helvula is spelled 'Strophostyles helvola,' which is apparently incorrect.
At the axils of some leaves, there develops individual stalks (peduncles) of flowers; these stalks are 3-6" long. At the apex of each stalk, there is a dense cluster of 3-10 nearly sessile flowers; usually only 1-2 flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is about 1/3" long or a little more, its petals consisting of a large rounded banner, a pair of slender lateral petals, and a narrow keel that is curled upward. These petals are light pink to pink, fading to white or pale green; at the bottom of the banner, there is a small patch of yellow. At the base of each flower, there is a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth; this calyx is sparsely hairy. At the base of each calyx, there are lanceolate tiny bracts with pointed tips that are about the same length as the calyx. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. Each fertile flower is replaced by a cylindrical seedpod that is 2–3½" long at maturity. The seedpod is initially green, but later becomes dark brown; it is nearly glabrous to sparsely hairy. Individual seeds are about ¼" long, oblongoid in shape, and pubescent. Each seedpod eventually divides into two parts to disperse the seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing sand, loam, silt, or gravelly soil. The root system can fix nitrogen in the soil.
Range & Habitat: This native wildflower is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map); the map does not differentiate between var. missouriensis and the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean). Missouri Fuzzy Bean is less common than the typical variety and it is found primarily in counties along the Mississippi River. Habitats of both varieties include open woodlands (including sandy and rocky woodlands), thickets and sandy thickets, riverbanks, sand bars and gravel bars along rivers, abandoned fields, and areas along railroads. Habitats with some history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by bees, especially Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) and bumblebees. One bee species, Megachile integra, is a specialist pollinator (oligolege) of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Missouri Fuzzy Bean also has extra-floral nectaries, which attract primarily wasps, flies, ants, and small Halictid bees. The extra-floral nectaries may prevent nectar thieves (e.g., ants) from stealing nectar from the flowers, or they may attract insects (e.g., ants & wasps) that help to protect the plant from insects that feed on the foliage. Insect feeders of the foliage include the caterpillars of Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), and Urbanus proteus (Long-Tailed Skipper). The leaf beetles Cerotoma trifurcata and Sumitrosis ancoroides also feed on the foliage. The seeds are eaten by such birds as the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Mourning Dove, while the foliage is readily consumed by cattle, deer, and probably other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Missouri Fuzzy Bean is one of several species in the Fabaceae (Bean family) that are vines. It has fairly typical pea-like flowers for species in this family, except that the keels of the flowers curl upward in an odd manner. Another distinctive characteristic of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans) is the production of dense clusters of flowers on long stalks (although only a few flowers bloom at the same time per cluster). The common name 'Fuzzy Bean' refers to the hairiness of the seedpods and/or the pubescent seeds of many species in this genus. As already mentioned, Missouri Fuzzy Bean differs from the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean), by the lack of obtuse basal lobes on its leaflets. Because of this characteristic, Missouri Fuzzy Bean can be difficult to distinguish from Strophostyles umbellata (Perennial Fuzzy Bean), which has similar leaflets. For Missouri Fuzzy Bean, the tiny bracts at the base of each flower are about as long as the calyx and they have pointed tips. In contrast, the tiny bracts of Perennial Fuzzy Bean are only one-half as long as the calyx and they have blunt tips. Another species, Strophostyles leiosperma (Small Fuzzy Bean), has smaller leaves and flowers, while the calyx of each flower is densely hairy. Sometimes the scientific name Strophostyles helvula is spelled 'Strophostyles helvola,' which is apparently incorrect.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月05日
Description: This climbing non-woody vine is a herbaceous perennial up to 8' long that branches occasionally. The light green to purple stems are terete, slightly speckled, glabrous, and often glaucous. Alternate leaves up to 3½" long and 2½" across occur at intervals along each stem; they are ovate-oval to broadly ovate-lanceolate in shape, smooth along their margins, and parallel-veined. The upper surfaces of the leaves are medium green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are pale green and hairless. There are no hairs along the raised veins on the leaf undersides. The petioles of the leaves are up to 1¾" long, light green, and hairless. At the base of most petioles, there is a pair of tendrils that can cling to adjacent vegetation or objects for support. At the base of each stem on the vine, there is an appressed to slightly spreading sheath that is usually bladeless.
Individual umbels of flowers are produced from the axils of the middle to upper leaves of each mature vine. Each umbel is connected to the stem by a long stout peduncle about 4-10" long. The peduncles are 4-8 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves; they are similar in appearance to the stems. Individual umbels are about 1½–3" across, consisting of 20-120 flowers on slender pedicels; when fully developed, they are globoid in shape. Like other species in this genus, Smooth Carrion Flower is dioecious; some vines produce only staminate (male) flowers, while other vines produce only pistillate (female) flowers. The green to yellowish green staminate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and 6 stamens with white anthers. The green to yellowish green pistillate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and a pistil with 3 flattened stigmata. The tepals of both kinds of flowers are often recurved. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer and lasts about 3 weeks. The flowers often have a carrion-like scent, but itsDistribution Map presence and strength varies with the local ecotype. Staminate flowers wither away after blooming, while pistillate flowers are replaced by globoid fleshy berries. Individual berries are about ¼" across and contain about 3-5 seeds; they are dark blue and glaucous at maturity. At the end of the growing season, the entire vine dies down to the ground.
Cultivation: Smooth Carrion Flower prefers full or partial sun and more or less mesic conditions. It flourishes in different kinds of soil, including those that are rocky or loamy. In a shady situation, this vine may fail to produce flowers.
Range & Habitat: According to official records, Smooth Carrion Flower is rare in Illinois. However, in neighboring states this vine has been found in many counties and it is regarded as more common. It is possible that some records of Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) in Illinois are based on misidentifications and it was Smooth Carrion Flower that was observed. These two species are very similar in appearance and easily confused. Habitats of the native Smooth Carrion Flower include savannas, thickets, prairies, rocky upland woodlands, woodland openings, woodland borders, and fence rows. Occasional wildfires appear to be beneficial in managing populations of this species.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, miscellaneous flies, and beetles. Fly visitors include Flesh flies, Blow flies, Muscid flies, Syrphid flies, mosquitoes, and other species. The bees suck nectar or collect pollen, while the flies and beetles suck nectar or feed on pollen. The butterfly Megisto cymela (Little Wood Satyr) has been observed sucking nectar from Carrion Flower as well. Insects that feed on the foliage of Smilax spp. (whether Greenbriers or Carrion Flowers) include the flea beetle Pachyonychus paradoxus, the thrips Ctenothrips bridwelli, and the caterpillars of several moths, including Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth), Phosphila miselioides (Spotted Phosphila), Phosphila turbulenta (Turbulent Phosphila), and Phyprosopus callitrichoides (Curve-Lined Owlet). In addition to these species, the caterpillars of Papaipema unimoda (Meadow Rue Borer Moth) sometimes bore into the stems of Carrion Flowers. The berries of Smilax spp. are eaten by some upland gamebirds and songbirds (see the Bird Table); the Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey also eat the young leaves and buds of these vines. The berries are a minor source of food to some mammals: this includes the Black Bear, Opossum, Raccoon, Fox Squirrel, and Gray Squirrel. The leaves and stems are browsed by the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit.
Photographic Location: The Loda Cemetery Prairie in the southwest corner of Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Species in the Smilax genus fall into two large groups: woody vines with prickles or bristles (Green Briers, Catbriers) and non-woody vines that are devoid of prickles or bristles (Carrion Flowers). In Illinois, there are 5 species of Carrion Flower that are currently recognized; some of these species were regarded as mere varieties of Smilax herbacea in the past. Smooth Carrion Flower can be distinguished from similar species using one or more of the following criteria: 1) the undersides of its leaves are pale green and totally hairless, 2) its umbel-bearing peduncles are at least 4 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves, and 3) it is a climbing or sprawling vine with numerous tendrils. The very similar Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) has fine hairs along the veins of its leaf undersides (and sometimes between the veins as well) while its peduncles are less than 4 times the length of the petioles of the adjacent leaves. Another similar species, Smilax pulverulenta (Powdery Carrion Flower), has leaf undersides that are medium green and it also has fine hairs along its veins. The remaining Carrion Flowers in Illinois are shorter vines with an upright habit of growth and they have much fewer, if any, tendrils.
Individual umbels of flowers are produced from the axils of the middle to upper leaves of each mature vine. Each umbel is connected to the stem by a long stout peduncle about 4-10" long. The peduncles are 4-8 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves; they are similar in appearance to the stems. Individual umbels are about 1½–3" across, consisting of 20-120 flowers on slender pedicels; when fully developed, they are globoid in shape. Like other species in this genus, Smooth Carrion Flower is dioecious; some vines produce only staminate (male) flowers, while other vines produce only pistillate (female) flowers. The green to yellowish green staminate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and 6 stamens with white anthers. The green to yellowish green pistillate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and a pistil with 3 flattened stigmata. The tepals of both kinds of flowers are often recurved. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer and lasts about 3 weeks. The flowers often have a carrion-like scent, but itsDistribution Map presence and strength varies with the local ecotype. Staminate flowers wither away after blooming, while pistillate flowers are replaced by globoid fleshy berries. Individual berries are about ¼" across and contain about 3-5 seeds; they are dark blue and glaucous at maturity. At the end of the growing season, the entire vine dies down to the ground.
Cultivation: Smooth Carrion Flower prefers full or partial sun and more or less mesic conditions. It flourishes in different kinds of soil, including those that are rocky or loamy. In a shady situation, this vine may fail to produce flowers.
Range & Habitat: According to official records, Smooth Carrion Flower is rare in Illinois. However, in neighboring states this vine has been found in many counties and it is regarded as more common. It is possible that some records of Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) in Illinois are based on misidentifications and it was Smooth Carrion Flower that was observed. These two species are very similar in appearance and easily confused. Habitats of the native Smooth Carrion Flower include savannas, thickets, prairies, rocky upland woodlands, woodland openings, woodland borders, and fence rows. Occasional wildfires appear to be beneficial in managing populations of this species.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, miscellaneous flies, and beetles. Fly visitors include Flesh flies, Blow flies, Muscid flies, Syrphid flies, mosquitoes, and other species. The bees suck nectar or collect pollen, while the flies and beetles suck nectar or feed on pollen. The butterfly Megisto cymela (Little Wood Satyr) has been observed sucking nectar from Carrion Flower as well. Insects that feed on the foliage of Smilax spp. (whether Greenbriers or Carrion Flowers) include the flea beetle Pachyonychus paradoxus, the thrips Ctenothrips bridwelli, and the caterpillars of several moths, including Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth), Phosphila miselioides (Spotted Phosphila), Phosphila turbulenta (Turbulent Phosphila), and Phyprosopus callitrichoides (Curve-Lined Owlet). In addition to these species, the caterpillars of Papaipema unimoda (Meadow Rue Borer Moth) sometimes bore into the stems of Carrion Flowers. The berries of Smilax spp. are eaten by some upland gamebirds and songbirds (see the Bird Table); the Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey also eat the young leaves and buds of these vines. The berries are a minor source of food to some mammals: this includes the Black Bear, Opossum, Raccoon, Fox Squirrel, and Gray Squirrel. The leaves and stems are browsed by the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit.
Photographic Location: The Loda Cemetery Prairie in the southwest corner of Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Species in the Smilax genus fall into two large groups: woody vines with prickles or bristles (Green Briers, Catbriers) and non-woody vines that are devoid of prickles or bristles (Carrion Flowers). In Illinois, there are 5 species of Carrion Flower that are currently recognized; some of these species were regarded as mere varieties of Smilax herbacea in the past. Smooth Carrion Flower can be distinguished from similar species using one or more of the following criteria: 1) the undersides of its leaves are pale green and totally hairless, 2) its umbel-bearing peduncles are at least 4 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves, and 3) it is a climbing or sprawling vine with numerous tendrils. The very similar Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) has fine hairs along the veins of its leaf undersides (and sometimes between the veins as well) while its peduncles are less than 4 times the length of the petioles of the adjacent leaves. Another similar species, Smilax pulverulenta (Powdery Carrion Flower), has leaf undersides that are medium green and it also has fine hairs along its veins. The remaining Carrion Flowers in Illinois are shorter vines with an upright habit of growth and they have much fewer, if any, tendrils.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月02日
Description: This is a woody vine that is 4-12' long. In open areas, the Climbing Wild Rose ascends about 3' and arches downward to reroot in the ground, while in more wooded areas it tends to climb over neighboring vegetation. The prickles along the woody stems are short, stout, and slightly curved. They are not particularly numerous. The alternate compound leaves usually consist of 3 leaflets, or less often 5 leaflets. Each leaflet is about 2-3" long and 1-1½" across, with a rather long and pointed tip. The shape is ovate to slightly lanceolate, with deep conspicuous veins, and finely serrate margins. At the base of each compound leaf are two winged stipules without comb-like hairs.
The flowers appear in small clusters from early to mid-summer and bloom for about a month. Each flower is about 2½-3" across, and consists of 5 light pink to rosy pink petals, numerous golden stamens, and pistils that form a small column in the center. The flowers have a typical rose fragrance. Later in the summer, bright red rose hips appear. The root system consists of a taproot that branches occasionally, and is usually quite deep. This vine reproduces by seed or suckering of the stems.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and loamy, fertile soil. This plant prefers soil that is evenly moist or mesic – it dislikes wet conditions with standing water or droughty conditions. During dry, hot weather there is a tendency for the leaves to become yellowish green and growth may be stunted.
Range & Habitat: The native Climbing Wild Rose occurs throughout most of Illinois, except in the NW, where it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to mesic prairies, savannas, thickets, woodland borders and clearings, acid gravel seeps, fence rows, abandoned pastures, and waste areas. Sometimes this plant is called the 'Prairie Rose,' although it is more common near woodland areas. It has a moderate capacity to recover from occasional fire and other disturbances.
Faunal Associations: The most common visitors to the flowers are various bees and Syrphid flies. Bees collect pollen, and typical visitors include honeybees, bumblebees, Anthophorine bees, Miner bees, large Leaf-Cutting bees, and Halictine bees. Syrphid flies feed on pollen, and are not effective pollinators. Various beetles and moth caterpillars feed on the foliage and flowers (see Moth Table for the latter). In some areas, Japanese Beetles can be troublesome. The rose hips are eaten by various small mammals and birds, including the Greater Prairie Chicken, while the stems and foliage are browsed by the Cottontail Rabbit and White-Tailed Deer (particularly the latter), notwithstanding the occasional prickles.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a powerline clearance of Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This native rose can be distinguished from the exotic Rosa multiflora (Multiflora Rose) by the lack of comb-like hairs on the stipules at the base of its compound leaves. It also differs from Multiflora Rose by having larger flowers that are more pink and by having fewer leaflets per compound leaf. Other native roses in Illinois are small shrubs that don't have the climbing habit of Rosa setigera (Wild Climbing Rose). They also have more leaflets per compound leaf than the latter species, and they have a flat button of pistils at the center of each flower, instead of a narrow column of pistils.
The flowers appear in small clusters from early to mid-summer and bloom for about a month. Each flower is about 2½-3" across, and consists of 5 light pink to rosy pink petals, numerous golden stamens, and pistils that form a small column in the center. The flowers have a typical rose fragrance. Later in the summer, bright red rose hips appear. The root system consists of a taproot that branches occasionally, and is usually quite deep. This vine reproduces by seed or suckering of the stems.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and loamy, fertile soil. This plant prefers soil that is evenly moist or mesic – it dislikes wet conditions with standing water or droughty conditions. During dry, hot weather there is a tendency for the leaves to become yellowish green and growth may be stunted.
Range & Habitat: The native Climbing Wild Rose occurs throughout most of Illinois, except in the NW, where it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to mesic prairies, savannas, thickets, woodland borders and clearings, acid gravel seeps, fence rows, abandoned pastures, and waste areas. Sometimes this plant is called the 'Prairie Rose,' although it is more common near woodland areas. It has a moderate capacity to recover from occasional fire and other disturbances.
Faunal Associations: The most common visitors to the flowers are various bees and Syrphid flies. Bees collect pollen, and typical visitors include honeybees, bumblebees, Anthophorine bees, Miner bees, large Leaf-Cutting bees, and Halictine bees. Syrphid flies feed on pollen, and are not effective pollinators. Various beetles and moth caterpillars feed on the foliage and flowers (see Moth Table for the latter). In some areas, Japanese Beetles can be troublesome. The rose hips are eaten by various small mammals and birds, including the Greater Prairie Chicken, while the stems and foliage are browsed by the Cottontail Rabbit and White-Tailed Deer (particularly the latter), notwithstanding the occasional prickles.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a powerline clearance of Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This native rose can be distinguished from the exotic Rosa multiflora (Multiflora Rose) by the lack of comb-like hairs on the stipules at the base of its compound leaves. It also differs from Multiflora Rose by having larger flowers that are more pink and by having fewer leaflets per compound leaf. Other native roses in Illinois are small shrubs that don't have the climbing habit of Rosa setigera (Wild Climbing Rose). They also have more leaflets per compound leaf than the latter species, and they have a flat button of pistils at the center of each flower, instead of a narrow column of pistils.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Gardeners have long known that some plants seem to grow better when grouped together, while others seem to conflict. Companion planting is a gardening technique that emphasizes plant compatibility; for instance, climbing vines and tall plants, such as tomatoes and corn, work well when paired with low-growing crops, such as beets and cucumbers, since they do not compete with each other for space.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月18日
Description: This is a herbaceous vine about 5-30' long that branches occasionally. Its slender stems have the capacity to twine around adjacent vegetation and fences, climbing upward and outward. The glabrous stems are light green, pale yellow, reddish green, or dark red. The stems are usually terete; less often, they are bluntly angular or narrowly ridged. Whorled and/or opposite leaves sometimes occur near the base of the vine, otherwise the leaves are alternate. At maturity, individual leaf blades are 2-4" long and 1½-3" across; they are narrowly cordate to cordate, smooth along their margins, and palmately veined (7-11 veins per leaf). The upper blade surface is medium green and glabrous, while the lower surface is pale green and sparsely short-pubescent (less often, glabrous or densely short-pubescent). Very young leaf blades are golden green in appearance. The slender petioles are 1½-6" long, light green to dark red, and glabrous or nearly so; sometimes there are tufts of hair where the petioles join the leaf blades. The leaf blades tend to hang downward from their petioles.
Wild Yam is dioecious, producing vines with either all male flowers or all female flowers. On male vines, panicles of numerous male flowers about 4-12" long develop from the leaf axils. Male flowers are arranged in small clusters of 1-3 along the branches of each panicle. Individual male flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 6 whitish green or yellowish green tepals and 6 fertile stamens. On female vines, racemes of 5-15 female flowers about 3-9" long develop from the leaf axils. Individual female flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across and 1/3" (8 mm.) long, consisting of 6 whitish green or yellowish green tepals and a large inferior ovary with 6 infertile stamens. The blooming period occurs during early summer. The female flowers are replaced by 3-celled seed capsules that are ovoid in shape and about 1" long; these capsules are strongly 3-angled and become golden green as they mature. Each cell of the capsule usually contains 2 seeds (less often, only 1). The flattened seeds have broad membranous wings; they are distributed by the wind. The root system is rhizomatous.
Cultivation: The preference is partial to full sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil consisting of loam or sandy loam. This vine can survive in light shade, but it is less likely to produce flowers and seed capsules. There are very few problems with insects and disease organisms.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Yam is occasional to locally common in Illinois; it is found in every county (see Distribution Map). Habitats include thinly wooded bluffs, typical savannas and sandy savannas, woodland borders, typical thickets and sandy thickets, moist sand prairies, powerline and railroad clearances in wooded areas, and fence rows. Wild Yam is found in both high quality and degraded habitats; it benefits from occasional wildfires and other kinds of disturbance that reduce competition from overhead canopy trees.
Faunal Associations: There is very little information about floral-faunal relationships for this species. The foliage appears to be avoided as a food source by mammalian herbivores. Dense tangles of this vine can enhance nesting habitat for birds and provide cover for various animals.
Photographic Location: The photograph of leaf blades was taken along a fence row in Vermilion County, Illinois, while the photographs of the seed capsules and flowers were taken in moist sandy thickets of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: Like the somewhat similar Greenbriers and Carrion Flowers (Smilax spp.), Wild Yam is a monocot, rather than a dicot. This vine is related to the tropical Yam that is found in grocery stores, but it does not produce edible tubers. Wild Yam can be readily distinguished from similar vines by the palmate venation of its leaves, its racemes or panicles of tiny flowers, and its conspicuous 3-angled seed capsules. In southern Illinois, there is the very similar Dioscorea quaternata (Whorled Wild Yam), which tends to have more whorled leaves than the common Wild Yam that is described here. There is disagreement among authorities regarding the taxonomic status of Whorled Wild Yam: While some authorities regard it as a distinct species (e.g., Mohlenbrock, 2003), other authorities consider it to be merely a variety of Wild Yam, and still others think it is unworthy of any taxonomic recognition.
Wild Yam is dioecious, producing vines with either all male flowers or all female flowers. On male vines, panicles of numerous male flowers about 4-12" long develop from the leaf axils. Male flowers are arranged in small clusters of 1-3 along the branches of each panicle. Individual male flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 6 whitish green or yellowish green tepals and 6 fertile stamens. On female vines, racemes of 5-15 female flowers about 3-9" long develop from the leaf axils. Individual female flowers are about 1/8" (3 mm.) across and 1/3" (8 mm.) long, consisting of 6 whitish green or yellowish green tepals and a large inferior ovary with 6 infertile stamens. The blooming period occurs during early summer. The female flowers are replaced by 3-celled seed capsules that are ovoid in shape and about 1" long; these capsules are strongly 3-angled and become golden green as they mature. Each cell of the capsule usually contains 2 seeds (less often, only 1). The flattened seeds have broad membranous wings; they are distributed by the wind. The root system is rhizomatous.
Cultivation: The preference is partial to full sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil consisting of loam or sandy loam. This vine can survive in light shade, but it is less likely to produce flowers and seed capsules. There are very few problems with insects and disease organisms.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Yam is occasional to locally common in Illinois; it is found in every county (see Distribution Map). Habitats include thinly wooded bluffs, typical savannas and sandy savannas, woodland borders, typical thickets and sandy thickets, moist sand prairies, powerline and railroad clearances in wooded areas, and fence rows. Wild Yam is found in both high quality and degraded habitats; it benefits from occasional wildfires and other kinds of disturbance that reduce competition from overhead canopy trees.
Faunal Associations: There is very little information about floral-faunal relationships for this species. The foliage appears to be avoided as a food source by mammalian herbivores. Dense tangles of this vine can enhance nesting habitat for birds and provide cover for various animals.
Photographic Location: The photograph of leaf blades was taken along a fence row in Vermilion County, Illinois, while the photographs of the seed capsules and flowers were taken in moist sandy thickets of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: Like the somewhat similar Greenbriers and Carrion Flowers (Smilax spp.), Wild Yam is a monocot, rather than a dicot. This vine is related to the tropical Yam that is found in grocery stores, but it does not produce edible tubers. Wild Yam can be readily distinguished from similar vines by the palmate venation of its leaves, its racemes or panicles of tiny flowers, and its conspicuous 3-angled seed capsules. In southern Illinois, there is the very similar Dioscorea quaternata (Whorled Wild Yam), which tends to have more whorled leaves than the common Wild Yam that is described here. There is disagreement among authorities regarding the taxonomic status of Whorled Wild Yam: While some authorities regard it as a distinct species (e.g., Mohlenbrock, 2003), other authorities consider it to be merely a variety of Wild Yam, and still others think it is unworthy of any taxonomic recognition.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月01日
Description: This perennial vine is up to 15' long and non-woody. The stems twine about adjacent vegetation and fences, climbing upward toward the light. These stems are light green or light reddish green, round in circumference (terete), and shiny; they often have lines of fine white hairs. Opposite leaves up to 6" long and 2½" across occur at intervals along the stems. They are triangular-cordate, glabrous, and dark green. Their margins are smooth, but sometimes undulate up and down. The sinus of the leaf blade is indented and somewhat flattened. The petioles are up to 3" long and often reddish green. A milky sap is absent from the foliage. From the axils of the middle to upper leaves, there are small clusters of flowers about ¾-1½" across on peduncles 1-3" long. Each flower is white or pinkish white and up to ¼" long.
The structure of each flower consists of a light green calyx with 5 lanceolate lobes, a white corolla with 5 linear lobes (sometimes with pink tips), and a white corona (or crown-like appendage) surrounding the reproductive organs in the center. The lobes of the corolla are semi-erect and rather twisted. The corona is divided into 5 segments; each segment has 2 linear extensions at its apex that are rather membranous and twisted. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers have a strong honey-like fragrance. If cross-pollination of a flower occurs, there develops a smooth follicle up to 4" long and 1" across; it is lanceoloid and tapers gradually to a point at one end. This follicle is initially green, although it laters becomes reddish green and finally brown. When the follicle splits open along one side, it releases numerous seeds. Each seed has a large tuft of white hairs, which enables distribution by the wind. The root system consists of a taproot and long rhizomes. This vine reproduces by clonal offsets or by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and mesic to dry conditions. Almost any kind of soil is tolerated, including those that contain loam, clay, gravel, or sand. Bluevine can be difficult to get rid off because new shoots can develop from the root system after the entire vine has been pulled. The seeds don't germinate until late spring or early summer.
Range & Habitat: The native Bluevine is occasional to locally common in southern and central Illinois, while in northern Illinois it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include thickets, banks of rivers and drainage ditches, gravelly areas along railroads and roadsides, cropland, overgrown vacant lots, shrubbery in yards, and fence rows. Bluevine adapts quite well to disturbed habitats and it is rather weedy.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts Halictid bees, masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), wasps, flies, and Monarch butterflies. Among the flies, are such visitors as bee flies (Bombyliidae), thick-headed flies (Conopidae), Tachinid flies, and bottle flies. Caterpillars of the butterfly Danaus plexippes (Monarch) feed on the foliage, while Aphis nerii (Milkweed Aphid) sucks juices from the foliage. Another insect, Labidomera clivicollis (Swamp Milkweed Beetle) also reportedly feeds on the foliage (Clark et al., 2004). Mammalian herbivores avoid consumption of the foliage because of its bitter taste and poisonous properties.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the flowers was taken near a railroad in Champaign, Illinois, while photographs of the foliage and seedpod were taken at a fence row near the webmaster's apartment complex in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Bluevine is often referred to as Cynanchum laeve; its scientific name has changed occasionally through the years. Other common names for this species are Honeyvine and Sandvine. A few members of the Milkweed family in Illinois are twining vines, rather than erect herbaceous plants. Most of these occur in southern Illinois in swampy habitats; they are currently classified as Matelea spp. (Climbing Milkweeds), although they were assigned to the Gonolobus genus in the past. Climbing Milkweeds have larger flowers with spreading corolla lobes; they are variously colored. The flowers of Bluevine are smaller with more erect corolla lobes. An introduced species, Vincetoxicum nigrum (Black Swallow-Wort), occurs occasionally in Illinois. It was formerly known as Cynanchum nigrum. Black Swallow-Wort has leaves that are rounded at the base and its flowers are brownish purple. All of these vines produce follicles (seedpods) that resemble those of other members in the Milkweed family.
The structure of each flower consists of a light green calyx with 5 lanceolate lobes, a white corolla with 5 linear lobes (sometimes with pink tips), and a white corona (or crown-like appendage) surrounding the reproductive organs in the center. The lobes of the corolla are semi-erect and rather twisted. The corona is divided into 5 segments; each segment has 2 linear extensions at its apex that are rather membranous and twisted. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers have a strong honey-like fragrance. If cross-pollination of a flower occurs, there develops a smooth follicle up to 4" long and 1" across; it is lanceoloid and tapers gradually to a point at one end. This follicle is initially green, although it laters becomes reddish green and finally brown. When the follicle splits open along one side, it releases numerous seeds. Each seed has a large tuft of white hairs, which enables distribution by the wind. The root system consists of a taproot and long rhizomes. This vine reproduces by clonal offsets or by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and mesic to dry conditions. Almost any kind of soil is tolerated, including those that contain loam, clay, gravel, or sand. Bluevine can be difficult to get rid off because new shoots can develop from the root system after the entire vine has been pulled. The seeds don't germinate until late spring or early summer.
Range & Habitat: The native Bluevine is occasional to locally common in southern and central Illinois, while in northern Illinois it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include thickets, banks of rivers and drainage ditches, gravelly areas along railroads and roadsides, cropland, overgrown vacant lots, shrubbery in yards, and fence rows. Bluevine adapts quite well to disturbed habitats and it is rather weedy.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts Halictid bees, masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), wasps, flies, and Monarch butterflies. Among the flies, are such visitors as bee flies (Bombyliidae), thick-headed flies (Conopidae), Tachinid flies, and bottle flies. Caterpillars of the butterfly Danaus plexippes (Monarch) feed on the foliage, while Aphis nerii (Milkweed Aphid) sucks juices from the foliage. Another insect, Labidomera clivicollis (Swamp Milkweed Beetle) also reportedly feeds on the foliage (Clark et al., 2004). Mammalian herbivores avoid consumption of the foliage because of its bitter taste and poisonous properties.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the flowers was taken near a railroad in Champaign, Illinois, while photographs of the foliage and seedpod were taken at a fence row near the webmaster's apartment complex in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Bluevine is often referred to as Cynanchum laeve; its scientific name has changed occasionally through the years. Other common names for this species are Honeyvine and Sandvine. A few members of the Milkweed family in Illinois are twining vines, rather than erect herbaceous plants. Most of these occur in southern Illinois in swampy habitats; they are currently classified as Matelea spp. (Climbing Milkweeds), although they were assigned to the Gonolobus genus in the past. Climbing Milkweeds have larger flowers with spreading corolla lobes; they are variously colored. The flowers of Bluevine are smaller with more erect corolla lobes. An introduced species, Vincetoxicum nigrum (Black Swallow-Wort), occurs occasionally in Illinois. It was formerly known as Cynanchum nigrum. Black Swallow-Wort has leaves that are rounded at the base and its flowers are brownish purple. All of these vines produce follicles (seedpods) that resemble those of other members in the Milkweed family.
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