文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Bamboo plants are woody members of the grass family and consist of vertical, above-ground culms, and underground roots and rhizomes. A successful propagation must recreate all these parts. While reproduction from seed is the easiest way for the species to reproduce, bamboo plants do not produce many viable seeds. Consequently, bamboo is more commonly propagated by vegetative means. There are several types of vegetative propagation, and each have various advantages and drawbacks. Culm cutting, branch cutting, trench layering and marcotting propagation techniques essentially involve cutting a part off a bamboo in order to reroot it.
Culm Cutting
The culm cutting technique is used to successfully propagate most of the economically significant species of bamboo at a much faster rate than seed plantings. Begin by selecting only healthy culms 2 to 3 years in age. Cut the culm at ground level or slightly above the first node. Remove all leaves and small side branches. Use this culm to prepare several cuttings 2 to 3 nodes in length, leaving about 4 inches on each side. Place cuttings in a sandy, starting medium. Bury about 5 inches deep in dirt, totally covering up at least one node. New growth should appear in about 6 weeks.
Branch Cutting
Branch cutting propagation is a process that is very similar to culm cutting, but with branches. It works best with thick-walled bamboo cultivars. Select branches from 1- to 3-year-old culms. With both culm cutting and branch cuttings, rooting hormone applications will help produce better and faster results. Place branches in a growing medium upright or at a 20-degree angle. Special equipment like sand beds and mist chambers are often used to improve sprouting.
Trench Layering
Dig a long trench about 6 inches deep, long enough to accommodate a culm, lying horizontal, approximately 20 nodes long. Select a 2-year-old culm, stripping it of small branches and leaves. Cut through the culm, leaving about two thirds of its diameter. Place it in well-prepared soil, so that buds on the culm are in a lateral position. Shoots should start to appear at each node after about 3 months.
Marcotting
Marcotting is a bamboo propagation technique that is similar to trench layering. However, culms are not cut, but bent to a degree that will allow growers to physically reach plant nodes. In addition, propagation does not take place in the soil; instead it takes place in the air. A mixture of soil and rooting hormones are placed at each node. These materials are wrapped and physically bound to bamboo nodes using coconut fiber. Rooted nodes are later separated from the stem to become independent plants.
Culm Cutting
The culm cutting technique is used to successfully propagate most of the economically significant species of bamboo at a much faster rate than seed plantings. Begin by selecting only healthy culms 2 to 3 years in age. Cut the culm at ground level or slightly above the first node. Remove all leaves and small side branches. Use this culm to prepare several cuttings 2 to 3 nodes in length, leaving about 4 inches on each side. Place cuttings in a sandy, starting medium. Bury about 5 inches deep in dirt, totally covering up at least one node. New growth should appear in about 6 weeks.
Branch Cutting
Branch cutting propagation is a process that is very similar to culm cutting, but with branches. It works best with thick-walled bamboo cultivars. Select branches from 1- to 3-year-old culms. With both culm cutting and branch cuttings, rooting hormone applications will help produce better and faster results. Place branches in a growing medium upright or at a 20-degree angle. Special equipment like sand beds and mist chambers are often used to improve sprouting.
Trench Layering
Dig a long trench about 6 inches deep, long enough to accommodate a culm, lying horizontal, approximately 20 nodes long. Select a 2-year-old culm, stripping it of small branches and leaves. Cut through the culm, leaving about two thirds of its diameter. Place it in well-prepared soil, so that buds on the culm are in a lateral position. Shoots should start to appear at each node after about 3 months.
Marcotting
Marcotting is a bamboo propagation technique that is similar to trench layering. However, culms are not cut, but bent to a degree that will allow growers to physically reach plant nodes. In addition, propagation does not take place in the soil; instead it takes place in the air. A mixture of soil and rooting hormones are placed at each node. These materials are wrapped and physically bound to bamboo nodes using coconut fiber. Rooted nodes are later separated from the stem to become independent plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月31日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 1-4' tall and usually unbranched, except sometimes at the base. The central stem is light green, short-pubescent, and 4-angled with shallow vertical grooves. At intervals, there occurs pairs of opposite leaves that become slightly shorter and more narrow as they ascend the stem. Each pair of leaves rotates about 90° from the pair of leaves either immediately above or below. The leaf blades are 1-3" long, 1/3-1¼" (8-31 mm.) across, and flat; they are ovate to oblong-lanceolate in shape and their margins are dentate to sparsely crenate. The upper surface of each leaf blade is medium green and sparsely short-pubescent, while the lower surface is slightly more pale and pubescent (at least along the central veins). On each leaf blade, there are usually 2 lateral veins that run parallel to the central central and a few secondary veins that branch from the central vein along its length. The petioles of the leaves are ¼-¾" long. The lowest leaves, which are wider, are often withered by the time that flowering occurs.
The flowers occur in dense axillary clusters along the upper half of each stem; these floral clusters are whorled and sessile. Individual flowers are about ¼" (6 mm.) long and 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of a 2-lipped tubular corolla with 4 lobes, a calyx with 5 teeth that have spine-like tips, 4 stamens, and a pistil with an ovary that is divided into 4 parts. The corolla is white to pink and softly short-hairy along the exterior of the upper lobe, which functions as a protective hood. There is also a rounded lower lobe and two smaller lateral lobes. A patch of red occurs within the throat of the corolla. The calyx is light green, sparsely canescent along its exterior, and 5-veined. The corolla of the flower is about the same length as the calyx (including the tips of its teeth) or a little longer. The blooming period occurs fromDistribution Map early summer to early fall for about 2-3 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time across several floral clusters. Each flower is replaced by a cluster of 4 small nutlets during the fall. Individual nutlets are oblongoid and 3-sided. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Clonal colonies of plants are often formed from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and loamy, rocky, or sandy soil that is calcareous. Depending on fertility of the soil, moisture levels, and time of year, individual plants can vary considerably in their height.
Range & Habitat: False Motherwort is uncommon to occasional in both central and NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent. This plant is not native to Illinois; it was accidentally introduced into North America from Eurasia. Habitats include dolomite prairies, sandy savannas near Lake Michigan, riverbanks, roadsides, and pastures. This plant is usually found in disturbed areas, although it sometimes occurs in higher quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relationships for this plant in North America, although they are probably similar to those for Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), which is closely related to False Motherwort and more common. The flowers are likely pollinated by various bees, including bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), which seek nectar or collect pollen from the flowers. Syrphid flies may also visit the flowers to feed on pollen, but they are less effective at cross-pollination. The Currant Aphid (Cryptomyzus ribis) uses Leonurus spp. (Motherworts) as summer hosts. Because of the bitter foliage, it is unlikely that mammalian herbivores browse on False Motherwort to any significant extent.
Photographic Location: A sandy oak savanna near Lake Michigan at the Indiana Dunes State Park in NW Indiana.
Comments: Across different populations, the leaf blades of False Motherwort can vary significantly in their width and in the abundance or size of the teeth along their margins. This plant is sometimes referred to as Leonurus marrubiastrum, but it differs from Leonurus spp. (Motherworts) by the lack of cleft lobes on its leaves. Like Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), False Motherwort can be distinguished from many other members of the Mint family by the spiny teeth of its calyces, the shape of its leaves, and other characteristics. Other common names of this plant are Lion's Tail and Horehound Motherwort.
The flowers occur in dense axillary clusters along the upper half of each stem; these floral clusters are whorled and sessile. Individual flowers are about ¼" (6 mm.) long and 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of a 2-lipped tubular corolla with 4 lobes, a calyx with 5 teeth that have spine-like tips, 4 stamens, and a pistil with an ovary that is divided into 4 parts. The corolla is white to pink and softly short-hairy along the exterior of the upper lobe, which functions as a protective hood. There is also a rounded lower lobe and two smaller lateral lobes. A patch of red occurs within the throat of the corolla. The calyx is light green, sparsely canescent along its exterior, and 5-veined. The corolla of the flower is about the same length as the calyx (including the tips of its teeth) or a little longer. The blooming period occurs fromDistribution Map early summer to early fall for about 2-3 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time across several floral clusters. Each flower is replaced by a cluster of 4 small nutlets during the fall. Individual nutlets are oblongoid and 3-sided. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Clonal colonies of plants are often formed from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and loamy, rocky, or sandy soil that is calcareous. Depending on fertility of the soil, moisture levels, and time of year, individual plants can vary considerably in their height.
Range & Habitat: False Motherwort is uncommon to occasional in both central and NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent. This plant is not native to Illinois; it was accidentally introduced into North America from Eurasia. Habitats include dolomite prairies, sandy savannas near Lake Michigan, riverbanks, roadsides, and pastures. This plant is usually found in disturbed areas, although it sometimes occurs in higher quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relationships for this plant in North America, although they are probably similar to those for Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), which is closely related to False Motherwort and more common. The flowers are likely pollinated by various bees, including bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), which seek nectar or collect pollen from the flowers. Syrphid flies may also visit the flowers to feed on pollen, but they are less effective at cross-pollination. The Currant Aphid (Cryptomyzus ribis) uses Leonurus spp. (Motherworts) as summer hosts. Because of the bitter foliage, it is unlikely that mammalian herbivores browse on False Motherwort to any significant extent.
Photographic Location: A sandy oak savanna near Lake Michigan at the Indiana Dunes State Park in NW Indiana.
Comments: Across different populations, the leaf blades of False Motherwort can vary significantly in their width and in the abundance or size of the teeth along their margins. This plant is sometimes referred to as Leonurus marrubiastrum, but it differs from Leonurus spp. (Motherworts) by the lack of cleft lobes on its leaves. Like Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), False Motherwort can be distinguished from many other members of the Mint family by the spiny teeth of its calyces, the shape of its leaves, and other characteristics. Other common names of this plant are Lion's Tail and Horehound Motherwort.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Vine-variety cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, require a lot of space to produce a healthy, continuous crop throughout the season. Using tomato cages to train cucumbers for vertical growth gives the plants lots of breathing room, aids in the formation of perfectly straight fruits and helps keep pests and soil-borne diseases at bay. When garden space is at a premium, training cucumbers vertically can also free up a great deal of garden real estate.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
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成长记
lgorley
2018年05月20日
I now added "Vertical Leaf Senecio- Senecio crassissimus" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年02月23日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant is 1–3½' tall, branching occasionally. The central stem and lateral stems are light green to dull red, terete, and sometimes shallowly grooved; they usually have vertical lines of white hairs. Older lower stems sometimes become brownish, woody-looking, and glabrous. Alternate leaves occur along the entire length of the stems, becoming gradually smaller in size as they ascend. These leaves are up to 5" long and ¾" across; they are narrowly lanceolate, elliptic, or elliptic-rhombic in shape, while their margins are entire (toothless) or sparingly serrated. Usually the lower to middle leaves have a few teeth along their middle to outer margins, while the upper leaves are entire. The leaves taper to acute tips, while their bases are wedge-shaped (cuneate); they are either sessile or taper gradually into short winged petioles. The upper leaf surface is medium to medium-dark green and glabrous, while the lower leaf surface is slightly more pale and usually glabrous (very young leaves may be sparsely short-pubescent below). A reticulated network of secondary veins is clearly visible on the lower side of each leaf, and sometimes it is also visible on the upper side. During cold autumn weather, sometimes the foliage becomes purple. The central stem terminates in a panicle of flowerheads up to 8" long and 4" across; smaller panicles of flowerheads are often produced from upper lateral stems and the axils of upper leaves.
Flowerheads, Leaves, & Leafy Bracts
The branches of these panicles are similar to the stems, except they tend to be more hairy and more grooved. Solitary leafy bracts up to 1½" long and 8 mm. across occur where these branches diverge, and they also occur at the bases of peduncles (basal stalks of the flowerheads). These peduncles are up to 1½" long. Each daisy-like flowerhead spans ½–¾" across, consisting of 20-40 ray florets that surround a dense head of numerous disk florets. The petaloid rays of a flowerhead are white and linear-oblong; when a flowerhead is fully open, they are widely spreading to somewhat declined. The corollas of disk florets 3-5 mm. long, tubular in shape, and 5-lobed along their rims; they are initially yellow, but later become orange-red. The lobes of the corollas are triangular in shape and ascending to widely spreading. The ray florets are fertile and pistillate, while the disk florets are fertile and perfect. Surrounding the base of each flowerhead, there are numerous phyllaries (scale-like floral bracts) in several series that are erect to ascending. The phyllaries are 2-4 mm. long, light to medium green, linear-oblong in shape, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from late summer into autumn for 1-2 months. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes with small tufts of white hair; they are dispersed by the wind. The achenes are about 1.5–2 mm. long, gray to dark gray, narrowly oblanceoloid in shape, slightly flattened, and finely pubescent. The root system is fibrous and long-rhizomatous. Clonal colonies of plants are often produced from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun and moist conditions. Favored locations are poorly drained areas that form pools of water temporarily, but later dry out. This plant can tolerate average levels of moisture and some drought, but it won't grow as large and its lower leaves may shrivel away. The soil can contain loam, clay, gravel, or even large rocks – this plant doesn't seem to care. Some foliar disease may occur, such as patches of rust or powdery mildew, but the foliage is usually in good shape during the blooming period of autumn. In damp open areas, this plant may spread aggressively by means of its rhizomes.
Range & Habitat: The native Panicled Aster occurs in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is common. Habitats include disturbed areas of moist prairies, prairie swales, openings and edges of floodplain woodlands, moist meadows along rivers, thickets, gravelly seeps, low areas along ponds and small lakes, edges of marshes, seasonal wetlands, roadside ditches, poorly drained gravelly areas of junkyards, fence rows, pastures, and abandoned fields. This plant often thrives in moist disturbed areas that are subjected to little or no mowing.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract many kinds of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (including green metallic bees), Halictid cuckoo bees (Sphecodes spp.), oligolectic Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), Crabonid wasps (Ectemnius spp. & others), bee wolves (Philanthus spp.), thread-waisted wasps (Ammophila spp.), paper wasps (Polistes spp.), Eumenine wasps, Ichneumonid wasps, Syrphid flies, bee flies (Bombyliidae), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Helicobia spp. & others), bottle flies (Lucilia spp.), Muscid flies, butterflies (Vanessa spp. & others), skippers, and beetles. Other insects feed destructively on the leaves and other parts of the Panicled Aster (Aster lanceolatus). These species include the leaf beetles Microrhopala xerene, Ophraella pilosa, Paria thoracia, and Sumitrosis inaequalis; larvae of the leaf-mining flies Nemorimyza posticata, Ophiomyia texana, and Phytomyza albiceps; larvae of Asteromyia laeviana (Papery Blister-Gall Midge) and the gall fly Rhopalomyia asteriflorae; the aphid Uroleucon olivei; and caterpillars of a butterfly, Phyciodes tharos (Pearl Crescent); see Clark et al. (2004), Needham et al. (1928), Felt (1917), Blackman & Eastop (2013), and Opler & Krizek (1984). Other insects that feed on this aster and other asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) include the larvae of fruit flies, plant bugs, several aphids, grasshoppers, and the larvae of many moths. Vertebrate animals also use asters as a source of food. The Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey feed on the seeds and foliage of these plants, while the Tree Sparrow and White-footed Mouse feed on the seeds only. Mammalian herbivores also browse on the foliage of asters, including deer, rabbits, groundhogs, horses, cattle, and sheep. In particular, White-Tailed Deer are very fond of the foliage of Panicled Aster, browsing its leafy stems to within inches of the ground (Martin et al., 1951/1961; personal observations).
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a rock-filled ditch near Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Panicled Aster (Symphyotrichum lanceolatum) is rather showy when it is in bloom, even though it is often treated as an undesirable weed. This aster can be difficult to distinguish from other asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) that have small flowerheads with white petaloid rays. It has several characteristics that, when they are taken together, are useful in making a correct identification: 1) its flowerheads are usually ½" across or slightly more, 2) its flowerheads have at least 20 ray florets, 3) its leaves have wedged-shaped bases, rather than rounded or cordate (heart-shaped), 4) its mature leaves are hairless on both their upper and lower sides, 5) its stems usually have lines of fine white hairs, and 6) its panicles of flowerheads have conspicuous leafy bracts. Regarding nomenclature, alternative common names for this plant are 'Tall White Aster' and 'White Field Aster,' while older scientific names include Aster lanceolatus, Aster paniculatus and Aster simplex.
Flowerheads, Leaves, & Leafy Bracts
The branches of these panicles are similar to the stems, except they tend to be more hairy and more grooved. Solitary leafy bracts up to 1½" long and 8 mm. across occur where these branches diverge, and they also occur at the bases of peduncles (basal stalks of the flowerheads). These peduncles are up to 1½" long. Each daisy-like flowerhead spans ½–¾" across, consisting of 20-40 ray florets that surround a dense head of numerous disk florets. The petaloid rays of a flowerhead are white and linear-oblong; when a flowerhead is fully open, they are widely spreading to somewhat declined. The corollas of disk florets 3-5 mm. long, tubular in shape, and 5-lobed along their rims; they are initially yellow, but later become orange-red. The lobes of the corollas are triangular in shape and ascending to widely spreading. The ray florets are fertile and pistillate, while the disk florets are fertile and perfect. Surrounding the base of each flowerhead, there are numerous phyllaries (scale-like floral bracts) in several series that are erect to ascending. The phyllaries are 2-4 mm. long, light to medium green, linear-oblong in shape, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from late summer into autumn for 1-2 months. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes with small tufts of white hair; they are dispersed by the wind. The achenes are about 1.5–2 mm. long, gray to dark gray, narrowly oblanceoloid in shape, slightly flattened, and finely pubescent. The root system is fibrous and long-rhizomatous. Clonal colonies of plants are often produced from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun and moist conditions. Favored locations are poorly drained areas that form pools of water temporarily, but later dry out. This plant can tolerate average levels of moisture and some drought, but it won't grow as large and its lower leaves may shrivel away. The soil can contain loam, clay, gravel, or even large rocks – this plant doesn't seem to care. Some foliar disease may occur, such as patches of rust or powdery mildew, but the foliage is usually in good shape during the blooming period of autumn. In damp open areas, this plant may spread aggressively by means of its rhizomes.
Range & Habitat: The native Panicled Aster occurs in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is common. Habitats include disturbed areas of moist prairies, prairie swales, openings and edges of floodplain woodlands, moist meadows along rivers, thickets, gravelly seeps, low areas along ponds and small lakes, edges of marshes, seasonal wetlands, roadside ditches, poorly drained gravelly areas of junkyards, fence rows, pastures, and abandoned fields. This plant often thrives in moist disturbed areas that are subjected to little or no mowing.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract many kinds of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (including green metallic bees), Halictid cuckoo bees (Sphecodes spp.), oligolectic Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), Crabonid wasps (Ectemnius spp. & others), bee wolves (Philanthus spp.), thread-waisted wasps (Ammophila spp.), paper wasps (Polistes spp.), Eumenine wasps, Ichneumonid wasps, Syrphid flies, bee flies (Bombyliidae), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Helicobia spp. & others), bottle flies (Lucilia spp.), Muscid flies, butterflies (Vanessa spp. & others), skippers, and beetles. Other insects feed destructively on the leaves and other parts of the Panicled Aster (Aster lanceolatus). These species include the leaf beetles Microrhopala xerene, Ophraella pilosa, Paria thoracia, and Sumitrosis inaequalis; larvae of the leaf-mining flies Nemorimyza posticata, Ophiomyia texana, and Phytomyza albiceps; larvae of Asteromyia laeviana (Papery Blister-Gall Midge) and the gall fly Rhopalomyia asteriflorae; the aphid Uroleucon olivei; and caterpillars of a butterfly, Phyciodes tharos (Pearl Crescent); see Clark et al. (2004), Needham et al. (1928), Felt (1917), Blackman & Eastop (2013), and Opler & Krizek (1984). Other insects that feed on this aster and other asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) include the larvae of fruit flies, plant bugs, several aphids, grasshoppers, and the larvae of many moths. Vertebrate animals also use asters as a source of food. The Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey feed on the seeds and foliage of these plants, while the Tree Sparrow and White-footed Mouse feed on the seeds only. Mammalian herbivores also browse on the foliage of asters, including deer, rabbits, groundhogs, horses, cattle, and sheep. In particular, White-Tailed Deer are very fond of the foliage of Panicled Aster, browsing its leafy stems to within inches of the ground (Martin et al., 1951/1961; personal observations).
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a rock-filled ditch near Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Panicled Aster (Symphyotrichum lanceolatum) is rather showy when it is in bloom, even though it is often treated as an undesirable weed. This aster can be difficult to distinguish from other asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) that have small flowerheads with white petaloid rays. It has several characteristics that, when they are taken together, are useful in making a correct identification: 1) its flowerheads are usually ½" across or slightly more, 2) its flowerheads have at least 20 ray florets, 3) its leaves have wedged-shaped bases, rather than rounded or cordate (heart-shaped), 4) its mature leaves are hairless on both their upper and lower sides, 5) its stems usually have lines of fine white hairs, and 6) its panicles of flowerheads have conspicuous leafy bracts. Regarding nomenclature, alternative common names for this plant are 'Tall White Aster' and 'White Field Aster,' while older scientific names include Aster lanceolatus, Aster paniculatus and Aster simplex.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月14日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant is ½–2' tall and more or less erect; it is either unbranched or sparingly branched along the upper half of its central stem. The central stem is yellowish green or medium green and terete; it has vertical lines of short pubescence. Whorls of 4-6 leaves occur along the nodes of the central stem; because the internodes of this stem are fairly short, these leaves are produced in abundance. Relative to the orientation of the central stem, the leaves are usually ascending, although sometimes they are widely spreading or drooping. The leaves are 2-3" long, 2-3 mm. across, and linear in shape; their margins are entire (toothless) and strongly revolute (rolled downward). Sometimes whorls of smaller secondary leaves are produced from short lateral stems that develop from the axils of leaves along the central stem. The upper leaf surfaces are yellowish green or medium green and glabrous to sparsely short-pubescent; they are narrowly grooved along the middle where the midribs occur. The lower leaf surfaces are whitish green and short-pubescent; they are partially obscured by the rolled leaf margins. The leaves are sessile or they have very short petioles (less than 2 mm. long). From the axils of middle to upper leaves, umbels of flowers are produced on short peduncles (flowering stalks); there can be 1-4 umbels of flowers at each node. Individual umbels span ¾–1½" across, consisting of 7-20 pedicellate flowers.
Each flower is about 5-6 mm. across and 8-10 mm. long, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 petals, 5 hoods with horns, and a central reproductive column. The sepals are light green, short-pubescent, and lanceolate in shape; sometimes they are tinted purple toward their tips. These sepals are visible at the bases of flower buds, but they are hidden by the petals when the flowers bloom. The petals are white or greenish white, sometimes with pale purplish tints toward their tips; they are oblong-elliptic in shape and strongly declined (bent downward), curving slightly upward toward their tips. The erect white hoods are open-tubular in shape and somewhat oblique, their lower sides facing the center of the flower. The slender white horns are sickle-shaped and inwardly curved; there is one exserted horn per hood. The short reproductive column is white at its apex and light green below. The slender pedicels of the flowers are light green to nearly white, sometimes becoming purplish at their bases; they are 8-12 mm. long, terete, and short-pubescent. The peduncles are ½–1½" long, light to medium green, glabrous to short-pubescent, terete, and ascending. The blooming period occurs from early to late summer, lasting about 1-2 months. There is little or no floral scent. Afterwards, successfully cross-pollinated flowers are replaced by ascending to erect follicles (seedpods that open along one side). These follicles are 3-4" long and about ½" across; they are narrowly lanceoloid in shape and fairly smooth (lacking warts or soft prickles). At maturity during autumn or winter, these follicles split open to release their seeds to the wind. Mature seeds are about 4-5 mm. long, ovate-flattened in shape, brown, and narrowly winged along their margins; their apices have large tufts of white hair. The root system is fleshy-fibrous and long-rhizomatous. Colonies of clonal plants are often produced from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, sand, or gravel. Infertile soil is actually preferred because it reduces competition from taller plants. During hot dry weather, the lower leaves may turn yellow and fall off, or the foliage of the entire plant may become yellowish green. In open sunny areas with exposed soil, this plant can spread aggressively.
Range & Habitat: The native Whorled Milkweed occurs occasionally throughout most of Illinois, except for a few southern counties (see Distribution Map), where it is rare or absent. Habitats include upland prairies, sand prairies, gravel prairies, hill prairies, openings in rocky upland forests, sandy savannas, limestone glades, rocky bluffs along major rivers, bluegrass meadows, pastures and abandoned fields, grassy slopes along highways, and waste areas. Whorled Milkweed is a pioneer species that prefers open disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts many kinds of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), Halictid cuckoo bees (Sphecodes spp.), sand-loving wasps (Tachytes spp.), weevil wasps (Cerceris spp.), Sphecid wasps (Sphex spp., Prionyx spp.), Five-banded Tiphiid Wasp (Myzinum quinquecinctum), Northern Paper Wasp (Polites fuscatus), spider wasps (Anoplius spp.), Eumenine wasps (Euodynerus spp., etc.), Syrphid flies, thick-headed flies (Physocephala spp., etc.), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophagidae), Muscid flies, Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui) and other butterflies, Peck's Skipper (Polites peckius) and other skippers, Squash Vine Borer Moth (Melittia cucurbitae) and other moths, and Pennsylvania Soldier Beetle (Chauliognathus pennsylvanicus); sources of information include Robertson (1929) and personal observations. Among these floral visitors, bees and wasps are usually more effective at cross-pollination. Some insects feed destructively on the foliage, flowers, seedpods, and other parts of Whorled Milkweed. These species include the Small Milkweed Bug (Lygaeus kalmii), Milkweed Leaf Beetle (Labidomera clivicollis), Yellow Milkweed Aphid (Aphis nerii), and a moth, the Delicate Cycnia (Cycnia tenera). Although this insect does not occur in Illinois, in the southwestern United States, the Horsetail Milkweed Longhorn (Tetraopes discoideus) feeds on Whorled Milkweed and closely related milkweed species (Asclepias spp.); sources of information include Betz et al. (1997), Yanega (1996), and personal observations. Mammalian herbivores usually avoid the foliage of Whorled Milkweed as a food source because it is one of the more toxic milkweed species.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois, and a bluegrass meadow near Parkland College in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This small milkweed blooms later in the year than most milkweed species (Asclepias spp.), and its small umbels of flowers attract many kinds of insects, including butterflies. Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) superficially resembles the common Field Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) because of its whorled linear leaves. It can be distinguished from this latter species by the milky latex of its foliage and the later development of its flowers and seedpods. Field Horsetail is a spore-bearing plant that lacks true flowers. Whorled Milkweed is readily distinguished from other milkweed species in Illinois by its more narrow leaves (only 2-3 mm. across). Narrow-leaved Milkweed (Asclepias stenophylla) is an exception, because its linear leaves are almost as narrow. However, this latter species has leaves that are alternate to nearly opposite along its stems, rather than whorled. So far, it has been found in only a few counties of western Illinois.
Each flower is about 5-6 mm. across and 8-10 mm. long, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 petals, 5 hoods with horns, and a central reproductive column. The sepals are light green, short-pubescent, and lanceolate in shape; sometimes they are tinted purple toward their tips. These sepals are visible at the bases of flower buds, but they are hidden by the petals when the flowers bloom. The petals are white or greenish white, sometimes with pale purplish tints toward their tips; they are oblong-elliptic in shape and strongly declined (bent downward), curving slightly upward toward their tips. The erect white hoods are open-tubular in shape and somewhat oblique, their lower sides facing the center of the flower. The slender white horns are sickle-shaped and inwardly curved; there is one exserted horn per hood. The short reproductive column is white at its apex and light green below. The slender pedicels of the flowers are light green to nearly white, sometimes becoming purplish at their bases; they are 8-12 mm. long, terete, and short-pubescent. The peduncles are ½–1½" long, light to medium green, glabrous to short-pubescent, terete, and ascending. The blooming period occurs from early to late summer, lasting about 1-2 months. There is little or no floral scent. Afterwards, successfully cross-pollinated flowers are replaced by ascending to erect follicles (seedpods that open along one side). These follicles are 3-4" long and about ½" across; they are narrowly lanceoloid in shape and fairly smooth (lacking warts or soft prickles). At maturity during autumn or winter, these follicles split open to release their seeds to the wind. Mature seeds are about 4-5 mm. long, ovate-flattened in shape, brown, and narrowly winged along their margins; their apices have large tufts of white hair. The root system is fleshy-fibrous and long-rhizomatous. Colonies of clonal plants are often produced from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, sand, or gravel. Infertile soil is actually preferred because it reduces competition from taller plants. During hot dry weather, the lower leaves may turn yellow and fall off, or the foliage of the entire plant may become yellowish green. In open sunny areas with exposed soil, this plant can spread aggressively.
Range & Habitat: The native Whorled Milkweed occurs occasionally throughout most of Illinois, except for a few southern counties (see Distribution Map), where it is rare or absent. Habitats include upland prairies, sand prairies, gravel prairies, hill prairies, openings in rocky upland forests, sandy savannas, limestone glades, rocky bluffs along major rivers, bluegrass meadows, pastures and abandoned fields, grassy slopes along highways, and waste areas. Whorled Milkweed is a pioneer species that prefers open disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts many kinds of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), Halictid cuckoo bees (Sphecodes spp.), sand-loving wasps (Tachytes spp.), weevil wasps (Cerceris spp.), Sphecid wasps (Sphex spp., Prionyx spp.), Five-banded Tiphiid Wasp (Myzinum quinquecinctum), Northern Paper Wasp (Polites fuscatus), spider wasps (Anoplius spp.), Eumenine wasps (Euodynerus spp., etc.), Syrphid flies, thick-headed flies (Physocephala spp., etc.), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophagidae), Muscid flies, Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui) and other butterflies, Peck's Skipper (Polites peckius) and other skippers, Squash Vine Borer Moth (Melittia cucurbitae) and other moths, and Pennsylvania Soldier Beetle (Chauliognathus pennsylvanicus); sources of information include Robertson (1929) and personal observations. Among these floral visitors, bees and wasps are usually more effective at cross-pollination. Some insects feed destructively on the foliage, flowers, seedpods, and other parts of Whorled Milkweed. These species include the Small Milkweed Bug (Lygaeus kalmii), Milkweed Leaf Beetle (Labidomera clivicollis), Yellow Milkweed Aphid (Aphis nerii), and a moth, the Delicate Cycnia (Cycnia tenera). Although this insect does not occur in Illinois, in the southwestern United States, the Horsetail Milkweed Longhorn (Tetraopes discoideus) feeds on Whorled Milkweed and closely related milkweed species (Asclepias spp.); sources of information include Betz et al. (1997), Yanega (1996), and personal observations. Mammalian herbivores usually avoid the foliage of Whorled Milkweed as a food source because it is one of the more toxic milkweed species.
Photographic Location: Photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois, and a bluegrass meadow near Parkland College in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This small milkweed blooms later in the year than most milkweed species (Asclepias spp.), and its small umbels of flowers attract many kinds of insects, including butterflies. Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias verticillata) superficially resembles the common Field Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) because of its whorled linear leaves. It can be distinguished from this latter species by the milky latex of its foliage and the later development of its flowers and seedpods. Field Horsetail is a spore-bearing plant that lacks true flowers. Whorled Milkweed is readily distinguished from other milkweed species in Illinois by its more narrow leaves (only 2-3 mm. across). Narrow-leaved Milkweed (Asclepias stenophylla) is an exception, because its linear leaves are almost as narrow. However, this latter species has leaves that are alternate to nearly opposite along its stems, rather than whorled. So far, it has been found in only a few counties of western Illinois.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
A hanging basket offers an alternative that takes advantage of vertical space when you lack yard space for a strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) patch. Compact day-neutral and alpine strawberry varieties work best for the smaller space in hanging baskets because they don't spread with runners like June-bearing strawberries. Try strawberry cultivars such as "Albion" or "Seascape," which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 and 4 through 9, respectively.
Hanging baskets made from peat moss, coir or other natural materials work best for strawberry hanging baskets because they drain well and mimic the straw commonly used around strawberry plants. A 12-inch diameter basket can typically hold three to five strawberry plants, so you can increase or decrease the number of plants and holes according to the basket size and personal preference. You can place all three to five plants in the top of the basket, or you can plant two in the top and add the remaining ones around the outside of the basket to create a dramatic, cascading look that also gives each plant more room to grow. After deciding how many plants you want, cut evenly spaced, 2-inch diameter holes into the bottom half of the basket liner. Remove the basket liner from the basket frame and cut the holes with a simple kitchen knife.
Planting the Strawberries
Strawberries are typically sold as bare root plants that should go into the ground (or container) as soon as possible. If you chose to plant strawberries in holes along the outside of the basket, insert the root end of the plants through the holes and into the empty basket. The root crown should be even with the basket. Stuff straw, coir, or peat moss around the holes to hold the plants and soil in place. Fill the basket with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Instead of purchasing bagged potting mix, try your own blend, such as two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part finished compost and one part perlite. Leave about 2 inches of space to the basket edge so you can plant the remaining strawberry plants in the top. Mulch applied up to the top edge helps retain some moisture in the soil.
Care Requirements
Strawberries need full sunlight -- a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil in hanging baskets dries out much faster than ground soil. Daily watering might be required during the hottest, driest parts of the growing season to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Regular all-purpose fertilizer application every two weeks gives plants a boost during the flowering and fruiting stages, but is only necessary once monthly before flowering begins. Mix the fertilizer to approximately half strength for container strawberries. Mix a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer until the soil is evenly moist, using the fertilizer in place of the regular watering routine. Pinch off all flowers from day-neutral and alpine strawberries until July to delay the fruiting period.
Overwintering Strawberry Baskets
With proper care, strawberries grown in hanging baskets can be overwintered and produce more fruit the following year. Bring the entire basket indoors before the first frost, placing it in a protected location such as a garage or basement for the the winter. A garden shed or other unheated space works for overwintering, but spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of straw over the soil and around the crown of each plant to provide insulation. Burlap or old blankets wrapped around the container provide extra insulation to keep the soil warm. Water the plants when the soil feels dry, which is typically only necessary a few times each month. Strawberries can return outdoors in spring after all frost danger has passed. Replace the soil in the hanging baskets with fresh soil before rehanging them.
Hanging baskets made from peat moss, coir or other natural materials work best for strawberry hanging baskets because they drain well and mimic the straw commonly used around strawberry plants. A 12-inch diameter basket can typically hold three to five strawberry plants, so you can increase or decrease the number of plants and holes according to the basket size and personal preference. You can place all three to five plants in the top of the basket, or you can plant two in the top and add the remaining ones around the outside of the basket to create a dramatic, cascading look that also gives each plant more room to grow. After deciding how many plants you want, cut evenly spaced, 2-inch diameter holes into the bottom half of the basket liner. Remove the basket liner from the basket frame and cut the holes with a simple kitchen knife.
Planting the Strawberries
Strawberries are typically sold as bare root plants that should go into the ground (or container) as soon as possible. If you chose to plant strawberries in holes along the outside of the basket, insert the root end of the plants through the holes and into the empty basket. The root crown should be even with the basket. Stuff straw, coir, or peat moss around the holes to hold the plants and soil in place. Fill the basket with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Instead of purchasing bagged potting mix, try your own blend, such as two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part finished compost and one part perlite. Leave about 2 inches of space to the basket edge so you can plant the remaining strawberry plants in the top. Mulch applied up to the top edge helps retain some moisture in the soil.
Care Requirements
Strawberries need full sunlight -- a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil in hanging baskets dries out much faster than ground soil. Daily watering might be required during the hottest, driest parts of the growing season to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Regular all-purpose fertilizer application every two weeks gives plants a boost during the flowering and fruiting stages, but is only necessary once monthly before flowering begins. Mix the fertilizer to approximately half strength for container strawberries. Mix a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer until the soil is evenly moist, using the fertilizer in place of the regular watering routine. Pinch off all flowers from day-neutral and alpine strawberries until July to delay the fruiting period.
Overwintering Strawberry Baskets
With proper care, strawberries grown in hanging baskets can be overwintered and produce more fruit the following year. Bring the entire basket indoors before the first frost, placing it in a protected location such as a garage or basement for the the winter. A garden shed or other unheated space works for overwintering, but spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of straw over the soil and around the crown of each plant to provide insulation. Burlap or old blankets wrapped around the container provide extra insulation to keep the soil warm. Water the plants when the soil feels dry, which is typically only necessary a few times each month. Strawberries can return outdoors in spring after all frost danger has passed. Replace the soil in the hanging baskets with fresh soil before rehanging them.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月28日
Las trepadoras o enredaderas son de las plantas más versátiles. Éstas pueden ser cultivadas contra una pared, sobre pilares, alrededor de pérgolas, y aportan un elemento vertical clave en el diseño de nuestro jardín. Es vital saber cómo crece o trepa, y que órgano de sostén poseen. Para esto, hablaremos de los diferentes tipos de enredaderas:
Adherentes: Se pegan con las raíces adventicias (hiedra) o mediante zarcillos (parra virgen) a las paredes. Las enredaderas de este tipo necesitan de una guía para trepar (arvejillas, pasionaria).
De tallos volubles: Son las que se enroscan y rotan alrededor de un eje. El soporte debe de ser permanente, como espalderas o alambres (jazmín Azórico, jazmín de leche).
Apoyantes: Producen tallos largos que deben guiarse (santa Rita, bignonia rosada). Con las rosas trepadoras, van hacia arriba ayudadas por sus espinas. Por este motivo, es necesario brindarle un soporte donde realizaremos ataduras para sostenerlas. Algunos ejemplos de este tipo son jazmín del cielo y farolito.
Una vez que ya hemos elegido la enredadera para nuestro jardín, debemos proceder a plantarla. Para ello hay un procedimiento básico que es similar al de un arbusto. Es importante brindarle a la planta suelo y ubicación adecuados.
Los pasos básicos son:
Realizar un buen hoyo.
Realizar recambio total o parcial de la tierra.
Colocar desde un primer momento un tutor.
Tras la plantación, riegue asiduamente.
Adherentes: Se pegan con las raíces adventicias (hiedra) o mediante zarcillos (parra virgen) a las paredes. Las enredaderas de este tipo necesitan de una guía para trepar (arvejillas, pasionaria).
De tallos volubles: Son las que se enroscan y rotan alrededor de un eje. El soporte debe de ser permanente, como espalderas o alambres (jazmín Azórico, jazmín de leche).
Apoyantes: Producen tallos largos que deben guiarse (santa Rita, bignonia rosada). Con las rosas trepadoras, van hacia arriba ayudadas por sus espinas. Por este motivo, es necesario brindarle un soporte donde realizaremos ataduras para sostenerlas. Algunos ejemplos de este tipo son jazmín del cielo y farolito.
Una vez que ya hemos elegido la enredadera para nuestro jardín, debemos proceder a plantarla. Para ello hay un procedimiento básico que es similar al de un arbusto. Es importante brindarle a la planta suelo y ubicación adecuados.
Los pasos básicos son:
Realizar un buen hoyo.
Realizar recambio total o parcial de la tierra.
Colocar desde un primer momento un tutor.
Tras la plantación, riegue asiduamente.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月22日
Las palmeras son unas excelentes plantas de interior sobre todo cuando buscamos que tengan un tamaño importante. Son un elemento decorativo de primera magnitud con su estructura vertical, volúmen y la suave caída de sus hojas. Puede parecer difícil su cultivo en interior pero en absoluto, simplemente hay que tener en cuenta sus necesidades y aplicarles los cuidados pertinentes, que tampoco son tantos.
Las mejores palmeras para cultivar en casa, tanto en interior como en el balcón o la terraza son:
La kentia o Howea Forsteriana
La palmera de coco o Cocos nucifera
La kentia necesita mucha luz por lo que si la vamos a tener dentro de casa debe ser en la pieza más luminosa de la misma.
Del coco germinado brotan las hojas que después, cuando la planta llegue a la madurez, podrán alcanzar los tres metros de longitud. Los riegos de ambas especies deben ser frecuentes en verano. En invierno la temperatura en el interior de casa debe mantenerse entre 7 y 21ºC para que las palmeras no sufran. También es muy importante que no hayan de soportar cambios bruscos de temperatura. Las palmeras necesitan mucha luz pero no así exposición directa al sol en los ejemplares cultivados en interior.
Durante la primavera y el verano es conveniente añadir un poco de fertilizante al agua de riego una vez cada dos meses aproximadamente. Cada dos o tres años hay que cambiarles el sustrato, aprovecharemos si es necesario para cambiarlas a una maceta mayor. Otro de los mantenimientos que precisan es la limpieza del polvo que se deposita sobre las hojas y aprovecharemos para inspeccionar el envés de las mismas en busca de posibles plagas, de cochinilla sobre todo.
Las mejores palmeras para cultivar en casa, tanto en interior como en el balcón o la terraza son:
La kentia o Howea Forsteriana
La palmera de coco o Cocos nucifera
La kentia necesita mucha luz por lo que si la vamos a tener dentro de casa debe ser en la pieza más luminosa de la misma.
Del coco germinado brotan las hojas que después, cuando la planta llegue a la madurez, podrán alcanzar los tres metros de longitud. Los riegos de ambas especies deben ser frecuentes en verano. En invierno la temperatura en el interior de casa debe mantenerse entre 7 y 21ºC para que las palmeras no sufran. También es muy importante que no hayan de soportar cambios bruscos de temperatura. Las palmeras necesitan mucha luz pero no así exposición directa al sol en los ejemplares cultivados en interior.
Durante la primavera y el verano es conveniente añadir un poco de fertilizante al agua de riego una vez cada dos meses aproximadamente. Cada dos o tres años hay que cambiarles el sustrato, aprovecharemos si es necesario para cambiarlas a una maceta mayor. Otro de los mantenimientos que precisan es la limpieza del polvo que se deposita sobre las hojas y aprovecharemos para inspeccionar el envés de las mismas en busca de posibles plagas, de cochinilla sobre todo.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月21日
Las orquídeas dendrobium son originarias de Asia (China, India y Malasia) y forman parte de la familia Orquidaceae. Es una orquídea que puede alcanzar hasta 1,50 m de altura, los pseudobulbos están en posición vertical cuando son nuevos e inclinados con la edad. Las flores son de 5 a 8 cm de diámetro y tienen una particular coloración amarillo-dorado. Los sépalos son suaves y los dos pétalos presentan bordes ligeramente ondulados.
Las flores del dendrobium se agrupan en pobladas inflorescencias situadas al extremo de las ramas y duran alrededor de una semana desde su aparición. Este dendrobium es una planta perenne que florece en primavera. Crece bien en climas templados o cálidos.
El dendrobium fimbriatum necesita riego constante, ni siquiera en invierno dejaremos de regarlo, aunque lógicamente espaciaremos más los riegos. En invierno lo dejaremos en lugar fresco, 13-12ºC durante la noche. Al llegar la primavera iremos aumentando la frecuencia de riego y moveremos la planta a un lugar más cálido y luminoso. El dendrodium se puede reproducir por semillas o por división, en este último caso procuraremos que quede una buena mata en la planta principal.
El dendrobium se abona en otoño para que tenga reservas y nutrientes para comenzar la floración en primavera. Podemos usar abono granulado NPK 10-10-10, 1 cucharada disuelta en 1 litro de agua. También podemos usar estiércol que también diluiremos en el agua que después usaremos para regar la planta. Tras la floración también se puede abonar el dendrobium para que se reponga, usaremos el mismo método descrito anteriormente.
Las flores del dendrobium se agrupan en pobladas inflorescencias situadas al extremo de las ramas y duran alrededor de una semana desde su aparición. Este dendrobium es una planta perenne que florece en primavera. Crece bien en climas templados o cálidos.
El dendrobium fimbriatum necesita riego constante, ni siquiera en invierno dejaremos de regarlo, aunque lógicamente espaciaremos más los riegos. En invierno lo dejaremos en lugar fresco, 13-12ºC durante la noche. Al llegar la primavera iremos aumentando la frecuencia de riego y moveremos la planta a un lugar más cálido y luminoso. El dendrodium se puede reproducir por semillas o por división, en este último caso procuraremos que quede una buena mata en la planta principal.
El dendrobium se abona en otoño para que tenga reservas y nutrientes para comenzar la floración en primavera. Podemos usar abono granulado NPK 10-10-10, 1 cucharada disuelta en 1 litro de agua. También podemos usar estiércol que también diluiremos en el agua que después usaremos para regar la planta. Tras la floración también se puede abonar el dendrobium para que se reponga, usaremos el mismo método descrito anteriormente.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月19日
Las coles en general tienen gente a favor y en contra pero no dejan de ser una hortaliza saludable, de cultivo fácil, que no puede faltar en nuestra dieta. Las coles de Bruselas, por su crecimiento vertical, son ideales para su cultivo en maceta. Es muy sencillo y nos dará grandes satisfacciones.
Comenzaremos eligiendo la maceta perfecta para cultivar nuestros ejemplares. Una maceta de 30-35 cm de diámetro y otros tantos de profundidad será ideal para cada planta. Si queremos plantar dos ejemplares juntos la maceta deberá medir al menos unos 45-50 cm de diámetro. Es preferible usar macetas de barro ya que drenan bien y permiten el paso del aire. Las coles necesitan temperaturas frescas para crecer correctamente.
En zonas de clima fresco se pueden plantar en primavera, en cambio en zonas de clima templado es mejor plantarlas a finales de verano o principios de otoño. La siembra a partir de semillas se hace a 1,5 cm de profundidad y la temperatura del suelo debe estar entre 7 y 30ºC. Entre 5 y 20 días tardan las semillas en germinar. Cuando las plántulas tengan unos 10-15 cm de altura será el momento de trasplantarlas a su maceta definitiva.
Las coles de Bruselas podemos incluso cultivarlas en interior si les podemos asegurar al menos 6 horas de luz solar directa. Además de sol necesitan estar a resguardo de las corrientes de aire. En lugares muy cálidos no les irá mal que tengan un poco de sombra. Las coles de Bruselas necesitan suelos neutros y arcillosos para que sujeten bien la planta.
En el momento del cultivo añadiremos una buena cantidad de compost o estiércol bien curado. Las coles en general son sensibles a la falta de boro que produce tallos huecos, brotes pequeños y baja productividad. Se puede corregir con bórax o borato de sodio que se suele usar en la limpieza del hogar.
El suelo debe mantenerse siempre con un ligero grado de humedad. Sobre todo hay que evitar que se seque el suelo en el periodo de maduración de la planta cuando se están formando las coles. Igualmente hay que evitar también el exceso de agua y el encharcamiento. En el cultivo en maceta será necesario colocar tutores para guiar la planta y evitar que se incline demasiado.
A las 3-4 semanas del transplante añadiremos algo de fertilizante al agua de riego. Cuando esté a mitad de su crecimiento aproximadamente usaremos un fertilizante tipo 10-10-10 o similar. Acolchar el suelo de la maceta nos ayudará a retener la humedad. Conforme vaya creciendo la planta eliminaremos las hojas más bajas e igualmente la cosecha la iniciaremos de abajo hacia arriba.
Vigilaremos la aparición de pulgones, gusanos de la col y escarabajos. La cosecha se suele realizar a partir de los 3 meses del transplante. Dependerá de la variedad cultivada. Y comenzaremos como hemos dicho por los copos más bajos cuando midan entre 3-5 cm de diámetro e iremos progresivamente recogiendo los superiores conforme alcancen ese tamaño. Los cogeremos retorciéndolos cuidadosamente con la mano para no dañar el tallo.
Comenzaremos eligiendo la maceta perfecta para cultivar nuestros ejemplares. Una maceta de 30-35 cm de diámetro y otros tantos de profundidad será ideal para cada planta. Si queremos plantar dos ejemplares juntos la maceta deberá medir al menos unos 45-50 cm de diámetro. Es preferible usar macetas de barro ya que drenan bien y permiten el paso del aire. Las coles necesitan temperaturas frescas para crecer correctamente.
En zonas de clima fresco se pueden plantar en primavera, en cambio en zonas de clima templado es mejor plantarlas a finales de verano o principios de otoño. La siembra a partir de semillas se hace a 1,5 cm de profundidad y la temperatura del suelo debe estar entre 7 y 30ºC. Entre 5 y 20 días tardan las semillas en germinar. Cuando las plántulas tengan unos 10-15 cm de altura será el momento de trasplantarlas a su maceta definitiva.
Las coles de Bruselas podemos incluso cultivarlas en interior si les podemos asegurar al menos 6 horas de luz solar directa. Además de sol necesitan estar a resguardo de las corrientes de aire. En lugares muy cálidos no les irá mal que tengan un poco de sombra. Las coles de Bruselas necesitan suelos neutros y arcillosos para que sujeten bien la planta.
En el momento del cultivo añadiremos una buena cantidad de compost o estiércol bien curado. Las coles en general son sensibles a la falta de boro que produce tallos huecos, brotes pequeños y baja productividad. Se puede corregir con bórax o borato de sodio que se suele usar en la limpieza del hogar.
El suelo debe mantenerse siempre con un ligero grado de humedad. Sobre todo hay que evitar que se seque el suelo en el periodo de maduración de la planta cuando se están formando las coles. Igualmente hay que evitar también el exceso de agua y el encharcamiento. En el cultivo en maceta será necesario colocar tutores para guiar la planta y evitar que se incline demasiado.
A las 3-4 semanas del transplante añadiremos algo de fertilizante al agua de riego. Cuando esté a mitad de su crecimiento aproximadamente usaremos un fertilizante tipo 10-10-10 o similar. Acolchar el suelo de la maceta nos ayudará a retener la humedad. Conforme vaya creciendo la planta eliminaremos las hojas más bajas e igualmente la cosecha la iniciaremos de abajo hacia arriba.
Vigilaremos la aparición de pulgones, gusanos de la col y escarabajos. La cosecha se suele realizar a partir de los 3 meses del transplante. Dependerá de la variedad cultivada. Y comenzaremos como hemos dicho por los copos más bajos cuando midan entre 3-5 cm de diámetro e iremos progresivamente recogiendo los superiores conforme alcancen ese tamaño. Los cogeremos retorciéndolos cuidadosamente con la mano para no dañar el tallo.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Ornamental grasses provide amazing texture, motion and architecture to the landscape. Feather reed ornamental grasses are excellent vertical interest plants. What is feather reed grass? These elegant additions to the garden provide year around interest and are easy to care for. Most ornamental reed grass just needs maintenance a couple times per year. Try this perennial for maximum impact in the garden but minimum impact on your yard work chores.
What is Feather Reed Grass?
Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a clumping ornamental grass with numerous cultivars. It is a deciduous plant but is one of the first of the family to show foliage in early spring. Feather red plant may grow 3 to 5 feet tall and produces an inflorescence in June that starts green and slowly blushes to purple or pink. The flower head becomes grain-like seeds within a few days. These grain heads can persist well into the winter, but gradually they scatter off the stalk.
Growing Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed ornamental grasses are suited for USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. They are very adaptable to wet or dry areas with full to partial sun. This marvelous plant needs little special care and its site requirements are very versatile. Choose a location with rich moist soil for the best performance, but the plant can also take dry poor soils. Additionally, feather reed ornamental grasses can tolerate heavy clay soils. Divide the crowns in late winter to early spring. Growing feather reed grass from seed is not recommended. The seeds are generally sterile and will not germinate.
Feather Reed Grass Care
This plant has almost no pest or disease problems and feather reed grass care is easy and minimal. These grasses are so flexible about site and soil condition, with a resistance to pests and disease, that their requirements are limited and make them perfect for urban or container gardeners. Young plants will need to be watered until they are established but the mature grass can withstand long periods of drought. If soil is poor, fertilize in early spring with a balanced plant food. Feather reed ornamental grasses should be pruned back to allow new foliage to soar above the crown in spring. Divide mature plants after three years for better growth and to produce new plants.
When to Prune Feather Reed Grass
There is some discussion on the appropriate time to trim deciduous grasses. Some gardeners like to trim them in fall when the flower heads are failing and the general appearance is untidy. Others feel you should allow the old foliage and inflorescences to protect the crown from cold weather and trim away the debris in spring. Take the old foliage off in February to March if you decide to wait. There really is no correct way as long as you take the old foliage off before the new growth begins to sprout. Use a hedge trimmer or grass shears to cut the old spent blades and stems back to 3 to 5 inches from the ground. This practice will keep your ornamental grass looking its best and producing new flower stalks and foliage for the most attractive appearance.
What is Feather Reed Grass?
Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a clumping ornamental grass with numerous cultivars. It is a deciduous plant but is one of the first of the family to show foliage in early spring. Feather red plant may grow 3 to 5 feet tall and produces an inflorescence in June that starts green and slowly blushes to purple or pink. The flower head becomes grain-like seeds within a few days. These grain heads can persist well into the winter, but gradually they scatter off the stalk.
Growing Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed ornamental grasses are suited for USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. They are very adaptable to wet or dry areas with full to partial sun. This marvelous plant needs little special care and its site requirements are very versatile. Choose a location with rich moist soil for the best performance, but the plant can also take dry poor soils. Additionally, feather reed ornamental grasses can tolerate heavy clay soils. Divide the crowns in late winter to early spring. Growing feather reed grass from seed is not recommended. The seeds are generally sterile and will not germinate.
Feather Reed Grass Care
This plant has almost no pest or disease problems and feather reed grass care is easy and minimal. These grasses are so flexible about site and soil condition, with a resistance to pests and disease, that their requirements are limited and make them perfect for urban or container gardeners. Young plants will need to be watered until they are established but the mature grass can withstand long periods of drought. If soil is poor, fertilize in early spring with a balanced plant food. Feather reed ornamental grasses should be pruned back to allow new foliage to soar above the crown in spring. Divide mature plants after three years for better growth and to produce new plants.
When to Prune Feather Reed Grass
There is some discussion on the appropriate time to trim deciduous grasses. Some gardeners like to trim them in fall when the flower heads are failing and the general appearance is untidy. Others feel you should allow the old foliage and inflorescences to protect the crown from cold weather and trim away the debris in spring. Take the old foliage off in February to March if you decide to wait. There really is no correct way as long as you take the old foliage off before the new growth begins to sprout. Use a hedge trimmer or grass shears to cut the old spent blades and stems back to 3 to 5 inches from the ground. This practice will keep your ornamental grass looking its best and producing new flower stalks and foliage for the most attractive appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Las cestas o macetas colgantes constituyen un elemento decorativo de gran impacto.
Permiten tener plantas en sitios reducidos, ya que se aprovechan las paredes y el espacio vertical.
1. Ubicación
Se pueden ubicar tanto en el exterior como en el interior de la casa.
Fuera, dan una bienvenida colorida a los lados de la puerta principal. Son típicas colgadas en porches, pérgolas, arcos del jardín...
En una terraza o balcón sirven para recubrir paredes y barandillas.
Dentro de la casa pueden flanquear un ventanal, donde disfrutarán de abundante luz.
2. Tipos de cesta colgante
Compra cestas grandes para que las plantas tengan más espacio y florezcan con profusión.
• Cesta de alambre
• Cesta de mimbre
• Cesta de madera
• Cesta de terracota
• Cesta de plástico
Se revisten con esfagno o con un papel especial duro (ver foto dcha inf).
3. Especies aptas para cestas colgantes
Para interior
- Amor de hombre
- Begonias
- Ceropegia
- Cintas
- Columnea
- Cuerno de alce
- Culantrillo
- Ficus repens
- Helecho canario
- Hiedra
- Impatiens
- Lobelia
- Mimulus
- Petunia surfinia
- Planta del dinero
- Poto
- Saxifraga
- Singonio
- Tillandsia
- Tradescantia
Para exterior
- Amor de hombre (sombra)
- Begonias (sombra)
- Boca de dragón, Antirrino
- Cintas (sombra)
- Escaveola (Scaveola)
- Evónimo rastrero
- Ficus repens (sombra)
- Fucsia
- Geranio
- Gitanilla
- Helichrysum
- Hiedra (sombra)
- Impatiens (sombra)
- Lampranthus spp.
- Lobelia
- Loto
- Menta (sombra)
- Mimulus (sombra)
- Petunias surfinias
- Planta del dinero (sombra)
- Rocío (Aptenia)
- Romero rastrero
- Saxifraga (sombra)
- Singonio (sombra)
- Tomillo
- Tradescantia (sombra)
- Verbena
- Vinca
4. Plantación
• Recubre la cesta con una capa gruesa de esfagno (un musgo fibroso también llamado peat moss), si no, una lámina de coco, una lámina de papel especial para cestas o, en el caso de cestas de madera y mimbres, con un plástico agujereado.
• A continuación se echa substrato para macetas mezclado con un poco de abono granulado.
• Se pueden plantar sólo colgantes o bien, mezcladas con una especie más erguida colocada en el centro.
• Después termina de rellenar con substrato la cesta y riega.
5. Riego y abonado
• Una cesta colgante necesita ser regada con bastante frecuencia, especialmente en verano. Esto es debido a que el espacio para las raíces suele ser escaso. Si la cesta fuera más grande, mucho mejor, porque tardará más tiempo en secarte.
• Se suele utilizar una regadera de caño largo.
• También se puede emplear una manguera, a cuyo extremo se ata un trozo de caña de bambú para que quede más rígida o insertándole un trozo de tubo rígido para que no se doble.
• Otro método es la inmersión. Consiste en descolgar la cesta y meterla en un cubo con agua unos 10 minutos.
• En el mercado hay algunas cestas de autoriego, que poseen una reserva de agua en la base.
• Al igual que ocurre con el agua, los nutrientes minerales se agotan con rapidez. Fertiliza cada semana en el período de crecimiento activo con un fertilizante líquido.
Permiten tener plantas en sitios reducidos, ya que se aprovechan las paredes y el espacio vertical.
1. Ubicación
Se pueden ubicar tanto en el exterior como en el interior de la casa.
Fuera, dan una bienvenida colorida a los lados de la puerta principal. Son típicas colgadas en porches, pérgolas, arcos del jardín...
En una terraza o balcón sirven para recubrir paredes y barandillas.
Dentro de la casa pueden flanquear un ventanal, donde disfrutarán de abundante luz.
2. Tipos de cesta colgante
Compra cestas grandes para que las plantas tengan más espacio y florezcan con profusión.
• Cesta de alambre
• Cesta de mimbre
• Cesta de madera
• Cesta de terracota
• Cesta de plástico
Se revisten con esfagno o con un papel especial duro (ver foto dcha inf).
3. Especies aptas para cestas colgantes
Para interior
- Amor de hombre
- Begonias
- Ceropegia
- Cintas
- Columnea
- Cuerno de alce
- Culantrillo
- Ficus repens
- Helecho canario
- Hiedra
- Impatiens
- Lobelia
- Mimulus
- Petunia surfinia
- Planta del dinero
- Poto
- Saxifraga
- Singonio
- Tillandsia
- Tradescantia
Para exterior
- Amor de hombre (sombra)
- Begonias (sombra)
- Boca de dragón, Antirrino
- Cintas (sombra)
- Escaveola (Scaveola)
- Evónimo rastrero
- Ficus repens (sombra)
- Fucsia
- Geranio
- Gitanilla
- Helichrysum
- Hiedra (sombra)
- Impatiens (sombra)
- Lampranthus spp.
- Lobelia
- Loto
- Menta (sombra)
- Mimulus (sombra)
- Petunias surfinias
- Planta del dinero (sombra)
- Rocío (Aptenia)
- Romero rastrero
- Saxifraga (sombra)
- Singonio (sombra)
- Tomillo
- Tradescantia (sombra)
- Verbena
- Vinca
4. Plantación
• Recubre la cesta con una capa gruesa de esfagno (un musgo fibroso también llamado peat moss), si no, una lámina de coco, una lámina de papel especial para cestas o, en el caso de cestas de madera y mimbres, con un plástico agujereado.
• A continuación se echa substrato para macetas mezclado con un poco de abono granulado.
• Se pueden plantar sólo colgantes o bien, mezcladas con una especie más erguida colocada en el centro.
• Después termina de rellenar con substrato la cesta y riega.
5. Riego y abonado
• Una cesta colgante necesita ser regada con bastante frecuencia, especialmente en verano. Esto es debido a que el espacio para las raíces suele ser escaso. Si la cesta fuera más grande, mucho mejor, porque tardará más tiempo en secarte.
• Se suele utilizar una regadera de caño largo.
• También se puede emplear una manguera, a cuyo extremo se ata un trozo de caña de bambú para que quede más rígida o insertándole un trozo de tubo rígido para que no se doble.
• Otro método es la inmersión. Consiste en descolgar la cesta y meterla en un cubo con agua unos 10 minutos.
• En el mercado hay algunas cestas de autoriego, que poseen una reserva de agua en la base.
• Al igual que ocurre con el agua, los nutrientes minerales se agotan con rapidez. Fertiliza cada semana en el período de crecimiento activo con un fertilizante líquido.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Gardeners who have an ugly wall or underused vertical space may want to try growing Arizona grape ivy. What is Arizona grape ivy? This attractive, ornamental vine can get between 15 and 30 feet in height and self-attaches with small tendrils that bear suction cups on the ends. These “feet” cement themselves to structures and can be damaging if removal is necessary. In some zones, this plant is considered invasive so check with your local extension office before purchase. Otherwise, throw caution to the wind and check out Arizona grape ivy plants (Cissus trifoliata).
What is Arizona Grape Ivy?
Vertical spaces with green vines spilling over them accent the garden and lend lushness that bare wall or trellis simply can’t fake. Arizona grape ivy plants are fast growing, easy care vines with tiny flowers and pretty lobed leaves. They are mostly herbaceous but develop a woody base and numerous stems. Another name for the plant is possum grape vine.
Those of us not from Mexico or the American South may wonder, what are Arizona grape ivy plants? This North American native is a fast-growing vine that climbs into trees in its wild range. The plant is remarkably adaptable to almost any lighting because of its nature as an understory tree. In the wild, the tree starts life either in a sunny clearing or in a crowded forest with no light. As the plant grows upward, it reaches brighter and brighter conditions. In cultivation, the vine thrives in partial to full sun or even shade. In its habitat, the plant grows in stream banks, rocky ravines, and roadsides.
Possum Grape Vine Info
Possum or grape ivy is a hardy, herbaceous vine. It has three-lobed rubbery leaves nearly 4 inches long with grayish green color. The plant produces 2-inch wide small greenish flat clusters of blooms which become tiny, grape-like fruits. These are green but mature to a rich bluish black. The stems have tendrils which coil around any object to help pull the plant up as it grows. Reportedly, the leaves produce a rather nasty odor when crushed. The plant is attractive to bees and butterflies. Birds eat the fruits. Basic possum grape vine info must include the fact that the plant is semi-evergreen. In warmer climates, the plant tends to keep its leaves, but in temperate zones it will drop leaves in fall.
Growing Arizona Grape Ivy
This is one of the easiest plants to grow and is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 6 to 11. Once established, care of Arizona grape ivy is negligible. Choose a well-drained site where soil has been loosened and amended with compost or other organic material. The plant can tolerate either acidic to mildly alkaline soil. Provide a vertical structure for support as the plant grows and help it along at the beginning with plant ties. Possum vine is drought tolerant and resistant to deer, but it will need water during establishment. It also self-sows, so you may wish to remove the seed heads before they ripen. Care of Arizona grape ivy may require occasional pruning to keep the plant in habit.
What is Arizona Grape Ivy?
Vertical spaces with green vines spilling over them accent the garden and lend lushness that bare wall or trellis simply can’t fake. Arizona grape ivy plants are fast growing, easy care vines with tiny flowers and pretty lobed leaves. They are mostly herbaceous but develop a woody base and numerous stems. Another name for the plant is possum grape vine.
Those of us not from Mexico or the American South may wonder, what are Arizona grape ivy plants? This North American native is a fast-growing vine that climbs into trees in its wild range. The plant is remarkably adaptable to almost any lighting because of its nature as an understory tree. In the wild, the tree starts life either in a sunny clearing or in a crowded forest with no light. As the plant grows upward, it reaches brighter and brighter conditions. In cultivation, the vine thrives in partial to full sun or even shade. In its habitat, the plant grows in stream banks, rocky ravines, and roadsides.
Possum Grape Vine Info
Possum or grape ivy is a hardy, herbaceous vine. It has three-lobed rubbery leaves nearly 4 inches long with grayish green color. The plant produces 2-inch wide small greenish flat clusters of blooms which become tiny, grape-like fruits. These are green but mature to a rich bluish black. The stems have tendrils which coil around any object to help pull the plant up as it grows. Reportedly, the leaves produce a rather nasty odor when crushed. The plant is attractive to bees and butterflies. Birds eat the fruits. Basic possum grape vine info must include the fact that the plant is semi-evergreen. In warmer climates, the plant tends to keep its leaves, but in temperate zones it will drop leaves in fall.
Growing Arizona Grape Ivy
This is one of the easiest plants to grow and is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 6 to 11. Once established, care of Arizona grape ivy is negligible. Choose a well-drained site where soil has been loosened and amended with compost or other organic material. The plant can tolerate either acidic to mildly alkaline soil. Provide a vertical structure for support as the plant grows and help it along at the beginning with plant ties. Possum vine is drought tolerant and resistant to deer, but it will need water during establishment. It also self-sows, so you may wish to remove the seed heads before they ripen. Care of Arizona grape ivy may require occasional pruning to keep the plant in habit.
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