成长记
Rosalinda Sardo Infirri
2018年10月04日
I now added "10" in my "garden"
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Francesco Cellarosi：Looks like dragonfruit
成长记
kensong
2018年10月02日
I have 5 branches of Ficus Lyrata and 4 of them have been sprouting new leaves regularly except for one. The four have grown about 10-12 inches taller than the one that never sprouted. So I decided to cut it above a node and guess what!??? I see a new shoot from the side. This one has lots of catching up to do.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Named for their large, broad leaves, elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) are moisture loving plants that can grow in up to 6 inches of standing water. Colocasia esculenta, which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, is a commonly grown variety of elephant ears. Also called taro, this elephant ears variety usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall and wide, and features boldly veined leaves up to 2 feet long. Uncooked elephant ears are poisonous, and the plants are invasive in some areas of the United States.
Transplanting Time
The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest.
In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight.
Growing Spot
A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day.
Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork.
Planting Hole
Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds.
Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears
Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again.
Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
Transplanting Time
The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest.
In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight.
Growing Spot
A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day.
Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork.
Planting Hole
Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds.
Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears
Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again.
Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
The plant commonly called vinca (Catharanthus roseus) grows as a short, upright bush, covered in small pink or magenta flowers. It grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 but can be treated as a summer annual elsewhere. Vinca's close cousins, greater periwinkle (Vinca major), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9, and common periwinkle (Vinca minor), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, can become invasive, but vinca doesn't usually spread beyond its garden bed.
Care Basics
Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them.
Watering Needs
Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants.
Regular Maintenance
Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants.
Common Problems
Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.
Care Basics
Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them.
Watering Needs
Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants.
Regular Maintenance
Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants.
Common Problems
Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.
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