文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
The bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia reginae) is a tropical favorite known for its flamboyant birdlike blooms. A South African native, the plant is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. Throughout the rest of the United States, it enjoys widespread popularity as a dependable houseplant. Bird of paradise grows 3 to 5 feet in height and blooms intermittently through the year, creating a colorful focal point in warm-climate gardens.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Petunias (Petunia spp.) grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and are broken into four categories of grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and spreading types, but they are often treated as annuals. Though a prolonged frost can kill petunias, including new transplants, established and older transplants usually can survive a light frost, according to Colorado State University Extension. Cells within plant stems and roots freeze and burst when the temperature cools quickly during a frost, which can kill tender perennials. Prompt plant protection can help petunias survive a frost, as long as the temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit aren't prolonged. You also can protect newly planted petunias in spring or early summer when a late frost occurs. If frost damage does occur, wait until all danger of frost has left your area before pruning affected foliage.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
A miniature daylily with enormous ornamental punch, "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro") packs an abundance of riches onto its 1-foot high frame. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, its buttery-gold, ruffled trumpet flowers open from late spring to late summer. In mild-winter areas, its gracefully arching foliage remains green all year. Plant it properly, and one "Stella de Oro" may eventually produce 400 blooms in a single growing season.
When to Plant
Climate dictates the best time of year to plant bare-root "Stella de Oro." In hot-summer, mild-winter climates where the soil doesn't freeze, fall planting lets them establish and leaf out before extremely hot temperatures arrive.
In cold-winter climates, plant bare-root "Stella de Oro" in spring at least 60 days before summer temperatures are likely to peak. Planting in fall increases the chances of the roots' not establishing before the ground freezes.
As long as their root balls aren't disturbed, nursery container plants can go in the ground whenever the soil is workable.
Where to Plant
For maximum flowering, "Stella de Oro" needs at least six hours of daily sun. In most cases, plants in direct afternoon sun produce more flowers than those getting mostly morning sun. The exceptions are plants in very hot summer climates, and -- in some instances -- those planted in the shade of light-colored buildings.
Give hot-climate plants full morning sun, with shade between noon and late afternoon. Indirect, reflected light may be enough for the building-shaded plants to bloom their best; if it's not, they're easily transplanted. "Stella d'Oro" rarely flowers in deep shade.
Never plant "Stella de Oro" where its toxic leaves might tempt the family cat.
Site Preparation
Prepare a site large enough to space the "Stella de Oro" daylilies 1 to 1 1/2 feet apart.
Loosen the top 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the planting bed with a spade or tiller and work in a 3- to 4-inch layer of an organic soil amendment, such as well-aged compost or manure.
Also work in a granulated fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash, as indicated by the N-P-K numbers on the label. One manufacturer, for example, recommends lightly scratching 1 1/4 cups of its 6-2-4 fertilizer granules into each 10 square feet of soil and watering well.
Follow your fertilizer label's application instructions, because brands vary according to formula.
Planting Methods
If the bare-root plants' roots are dry, submerge them in water for one or two hours before planting. Water a dry potted "Stella de Oro" until liquid runs from its drainage holes.
Cut bare-root plants' leaf fans back to 6 to 8 inches above the roots, trimming the tops into inverted "Vs." Use clean, sharp scissors disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol.
Dig holes wide enough for the roots. In a cold-winter climate, dig deeply enough for roots' tops to sit 1 inch below the soil line; elsewhere 1/2 inch is acceptable.
Hold a bare-root plant upright, center it in a hole and backfill with loose soil. Hold a container plant by its base, invert the container and slowly slide it free. Shake the rootball gently and trim damaged or encircling rots with sharp, disinfected stem cutters. Spread the roots, center it in a hole and backfill.
Tamp the soil lightly to eliminate air pockets. Water the transplants deeply enough to soak the roots, and cover the planting bed with a 2- to 3-inch layer of moisture-retaining organic mulch.
Watering After Planting
To establish quickly and perform well, "Stella de Oro" needs 1 inch of weekly rain or supplemental water, or about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil.
When the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feel dry or are too compacted to dig easily, water slowly so that the moisture sinks to the roots. For plants in loamy or clay soil, one weekly watering is generally enough. In sandy soil, water twice weekly with one-half the required amount.
When to Plant
Climate dictates the best time of year to plant bare-root "Stella de Oro." In hot-summer, mild-winter climates where the soil doesn't freeze, fall planting lets them establish and leaf out before extremely hot temperatures arrive.
In cold-winter climates, plant bare-root "Stella de Oro" in spring at least 60 days before summer temperatures are likely to peak. Planting in fall increases the chances of the roots' not establishing before the ground freezes.
As long as their root balls aren't disturbed, nursery container plants can go in the ground whenever the soil is workable.
Where to Plant
For maximum flowering, "Stella de Oro" needs at least six hours of daily sun. In most cases, plants in direct afternoon sun produce more flowers than those getting mostly morning sun. The exceptions are plants in very hot summer climates, and -- in some instances -- those planted in the shade of light-colored buildings.
Give hot-climate plants full morning sun, with shade between noon and late afternoon. Indirect, reflected light may be enough for the building-shaded plants to bloom their best; if it's not, they're easily transplanted. "Stella d'Oro" rarely flowers in deep shade.
Never plant "Stella de Oro" where its toxic leaves might tempt the family cat.
Site Preparation
Prepare a site large enough to space the "Stella de Oro" daylilies 1 to 1 1/2 feet apart.
Loosen the top 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the planting bed with a spade or tiller and work in a 3- to 4-inch layer of an organic soil amendment, such as well-aged compost or manure.
Also work in a granulated fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash, as indicated by the N-P-K numbers on the label. One manufacturer, for example, recommends lightly scratching 1 1/4 cups of its 6-2-4 fertilizer granules into each 10 square feet of soil and watering well.
Follow your fertilizer label's application instructions, because brands vary according to formula.
Planting Methods
If the bare-root plants' roots are dry, submerge them in water for one or two hours before planting. Water a dry potted "Stella de Oro" until liquid runs from its drainage holes.
Cut bare-root plants' leaf fans back to 6 to 8 inches above the roots, trimming the tops into inverted "Vs." Use clean, sharp scissors disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol.
Dig holes wide enough for the roots. In a cold-winter climate, dig deeply enough for roots' tops to sit 1 inch below the soil line; elsewhere 1/2 inch is acceptable.
Hold a bare-root plant upright, center it in a hole and backfill with loose soil. Hold a container plant by its base, invert the container and slowly slide it free. Shake the rootball gently and trim damaged or encircling rots with sharp, disinfected stem cutters. Spread the roots, center it in a hole and backfill.
Tamp the soil lightly to eliminate air pockets. Water the transplants deeply enough to soak the roots, and cover the planting bed with a 2- to 3-inch layer of moisture-retaining organic mulch.
Watering After Planting
To establish quickly and perform well, "Stella de Oro" needs 1 inch of weekly rain or supplemental water, or about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil.
When the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feel dry or are too compacted to dig easily, water slowly so that the moisture sinks to the roots. For plants in loamy or clay soil, one weekly watering is generally enough. In sandy soil, water twice weekly with one-half the required amount.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
The giant white bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia nicolai) is a cousin to the more commonly seen orange and blue bird of paradise. The 10- to 12-inch white flower has a blue "tongue" and sits inside a purple bract.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
One of the first, and best known, re-blooming daylilies is the cultivar "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro"), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. It first appeared in 1975, and 10 years later won the Stout Silver Medal. This is the highest award a daylily cultivar can receive from the American Hemerocallis Society. Like most daylilies, "Stella de Oro" benefits from division every few years.
How Often Should I Divide?
"Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms.
What Time of Year Is Best?
Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided.
If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall.
How Do I Divide Daylilies?
If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry.
Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies.
What Comes After Division?
Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots.
Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.
How Often Should I Divide?
"Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms.
What Time of Year Is Best?
Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided.
If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall.
How Do I Divide Daylilies?
If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry.
Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies.
What Comes After Division?
Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots.
Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
When to prune sedum (Sedum spp.) is a question that is not answered with just a simple date. Pruning the flowering perennial, which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depends on the size of the plant, the variety and how you want it to look. A compact, low-growing sedum requires different maintenance pruning than a tall, late-blooming variety.
Before You Prune
Before you prune your sedum, disinfect your pruning tools. Pruning shears are best for cutting back tall plants, while snips work well for pinching or clipping leaves. After brushing any dirt from the tool blades, disinfect the blades by soaking them for at least five minutes in a household disinfectant. After removing the tool from the disinfectant, rinse the blades with clean water and let them dry before using them on your plants. Repeat the disinfecting process before pruning another plant to avoid spreading disease.
Pinching for Shape
To encourage branching and low growth on young plants, pinching is recommended. To pinch the plant, use your fingers or pruning snips to remove the center growth from the top of a stem. Take care not to damage the buds or small leaf sets on either side of the center growth; these buds are where the branching will occur. Pinch back new plants when they are about 8 inches tall. You can still pinch off up to 2 inches after blooms start to appear, but it will delay flowering. The result is sedum with more horizontal growth, less vertical growth and added fullness.
Late Spring Pruning
A more severe pruning is required to encourage bushiness on an older plant that has gotten top heavy or leggy. To encourage new plant growth and get a fuller plant, cut the sedum back by one-half in May or June. New flower buds will form on the cut stalks, so you won't be sacrificing any of the showy display for the sake of a neater looking plant. Choose a point about halfway down a stalk and just above a set of leaves to make your cut. Cut cleanly through the stalk with sharp pruning shears, taking care not to damage the leaf set. Repeat with each stalk until the sedum is a uniform height.
Early Spring Pruning
Some varieties of tall sedum, such as "Autumn Joy" (Sedum x "Autumn Joy"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 9, flower through the winter and need cut back in late winter or early spring. You can cut the sedum back in winter as soon as the flowers fade or any time after that until you see green peeping from the ground in spring. Cut the entire plant back to ground level using pruning shears or break the stalks at ground level by hand. In the spring, the sedum will re-emerge from the roots.
Year-Round Pruning
Some types of pruning are necessary year-round. This includes pruning out dead plant growth and cutting out diseased plant material. Removing these from your sedum as you see them will help keep the plant looking its best, keep it healthy and less prone to fungal or insect infestations. Cut dead stalks back to the base of the stalk. Pull any dead leaves when you spot them. Remove diseased portions of the plant to keep disease from spreading. Make sure you cut back far enough that you are leaving only healthy plant material. Make the cut just above a leaf set for new growth. Do not compost diseased sedum material.
Before You Prune
Before you prune your sedum, disinfect your pruning tools. Pruning shears are best for cutting back tall plants, while snips work well for pinching or clipping leaves. After brushing any dirt from the tool blades, disinfect the blades by soaking them for at least five minutes in a household disinfectant. After removing the tool from the disinfectant, rinse the blades with clean water and let them dry before using them on your plants. Repeat the disinfecting process before pruning another plant to avoid spreading disease.
Pinching for Shape
To encourage branching and low growth on young plants, pinching is recommended. To pinch the plant, use your fingers or pruning snips to remove the center growth from the top of a stem. Take care not to damage the buds or small leaf sets on either side of the center growth; these buds are where the branching will occur. Pinch back new plants when they are about 8 inches tall. You can still pinch off up to 2 inches after blooms start to appear, but it will delay flowering. The result is sedum with more horizontal growth, less vertical growth and added fullness.
Late Spring Pruning
A more severe pruning is required to encourage bushiness on an older plant that has gotten top heavy or leggy. To encourage new plant growth and get a fuller plant, cut the sedum back by one-half in May or June. New flower buds will form on the cut stalks, so you won't be sacrificing any of the showy display for the sake of a neater looking plant. Choose a point about halfway down a stalk and just above a set of leaves to make your cut. Cut cleanly through the stalk with sharp pruning shears, taking care not to damage the leaf set. Repeat with each stalk until the sedum is a uniform height.
Early Spring Pruning
Some varieties of tall sedum, such as "Autumn Joy" (Sedum x "Autumn Joy"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 9, flower through the winter and need cut back in late winter or early spring. You can cut the sedum back in winter as soon as the flowers fade or any time after that until you see green peeping from the ground in spring. Cut the entire plant back to ground level using pruning shears or break the stalks at ground level by hand. In the spring, the sedum will re-emerge from the roots.
Year-Round Pruning
Some types of pruning are necessary year-round. This includes pruning out dead plant growth and cutting out diseased plant material. Removing these from your sedum as you see them will help keep the plant looking its best, keep it healthy and less prone to fungal or insect infestations. Cut dead stalks back to the base of the stalk. Pull any dead leaves when you spot them. Remove diseased portions of the plant to keep disease from spreading. Make sure you cut back far enough that you are leaving only healthy plant material. Make the cut just above a leaf set for new growth. Do not compost diseased sedum material.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
Pampas Grass (Cortaderia selloana) creates a tall, flowing feature in your garden when in full bloom. Planting at the appropriate time for your geographical area is important if you want the plants to have tall 10-foot plumes by late summer. The grass thrives in warm temperatures and is a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Cooler growing zones can also plant pampas grass, but is will only grow as an annual. Pampas grass is considered invasive in some areas of the U.S.
Preparing Planting Area
Pampas grass produces long, feathery plumes and can have an aggressive growth pattern. Begin planting preparation by choosing a planting area that will not hinder the growth or block other plants. Clear the area and work the soil to a minimum depth of 12 inches about one month before the desired planting date to give the soil time to settle.
Dividing Existing Plants
Pampas grass is a clump-growing plant that is easily divided to obtain new plants. Dividing plants in early spring offers the best results with transplanting and root establishment before the height of the summer growing season. Remove the entire plant from the soil by digging around the root mass and gently pulling out the plant. Carefully break the root mass into smaller clumps that contain both root and grass stems. Plant the pampas grass transplants in a new location immediately and at the same depth they were previously growing. Wear gloves when handling pampas grass, as the blades are sharp and can cut your hands.
Starting From Seed
Planting pampas grass from seeds can begin during the late winter months. This gives the seeds enough time to germinate and grow into strong seedlings before planting them in an outdoor garden in spring. Most plants do not produce viable seeds because both male and female plants are required for pollination.
Planting Seedlings Depends on Climate
The date pampas grass seedlings are planted outdoors is dependent on the geographical area. USDA zones warmer than zone 7 rarely get freezing temperatures in the spring that will damage the plants. Gardeners in these warmer USDA zones can successfully plant pampas grass year-round. Those in cooler USDA zones should wait until after the last hard frost of the spring season.
Benefits Of Containers
Use large pots with good drainage holes to grow pampas grass if you are concerned about the plant spreading or becoming too aggressive in your garden. Growing in pots allows you to plant the grass earlier in spring, since you can easily move the pot indoors or into a protected area if there is a risk of damaging temperatures.
Preparing Planting Area
Pampas grass produces long, feathery plumes and can have an aggressive growth pattern. Begin planting preparation by choosing a planting area that will not hinder the growth or block other plants. Clear the area and work the soil to a minimum depth of 12 inches about one month before the desired planting date to give the soil time to settle.
Dividing Existing Plants
Pampas grass is a clump-growing plant that is easily divided to obtain new plants. Dividing plants in early spring offers the best results with transplanting and root establishment before the height of the summer growing season. Remove the entire plant from the soil by digging around the root mass and gently pulling out the plant. Carefully break the root mass into smaller clumps that contain both root and grass stems. Plant the pampas grass transplants in a new location immediately and at the same depth they were previously growing. Wear gloves when handling pampas grass, as the blades are sharp and can cut your hands.
Starting From Seed
Planting pampas grass from seeds can begin during the late winter months. This gives the seeds enough time to germinate and grow into strong seedlings before planting them in an outdoor garden in spring. Most plants do not produce viable seeds because both male and female plants are required for pollination.
Planting Seedlings Depends on Climate
The date pampas grass seedlings are planted outdoors is dependent on the geographical area. USDA zones warmer than zone 7 rarely get freezing temperatures in the spring that will damage the plants. Gardeners in these warmer USDA zones can successfully plant pampas grass year-round. Those in cooler USDA zones should wait until after the last hard frost of the spring season.
Benefits Of Containers
Use large pots with good drainage holes to grow pampas grass if you are concerned about the plant spreading or becoming too aggressive in your garden. Growing in pots allows you to plant the grass earlier in spring, since you can easily move the pot indoors or into a protected area if there is a risk of damaging temperatures.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Cordyline fruticosa, also called Hawaiian ti, is an evergreen shrub that performs well grown outside in warm and humid, frost-free climates. It is hardy and requires little care growing throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. It works well planted in containers and grown indoors or outside on patios. The plant is palmlike, growing up to 10 feet in height. Depending on the cultivar, the glossy foliage is purplish-red, green or streaked with combinations of purples, reds, white or yellow. In springtime, mature plants produce small yellow or reddish blooms.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant consists of a pair of leaves that are nearly basal and a single raceme of flowers. The leaf blades are 5-10" long, 3-5" across, and more or less erect; they are oval-ovate in shape and smooth (entire) along their margins. Both the lower and upper leaf surfaces are medium to dark green, glabrous, and sometimes slightly glaucous. Leaf venation is parallel. The leaves taper into petioles about 1½–3" long that wrap around a short basal stalk that is partially underground. Between the leaves, there develops a raceme of flowers about 4-9" long. This raceme is shorter than the leaves and it tends to nod toward its apex; there are 6-16 flowers per raceme. The central stalk of the raceme is medium green, terete, somewhat slender, and glabrous. The nodding flowers usually occur along one side of the raceme from pedicels that are up to ½" long; these pedicels are light green, terete, and glabrous. At the bases of these pedicels, there are solitary floral bracts. These floral bracts are up to 8 mm. (1/3") long, light green to nearly white, and narrowly lanceolate to ovate in shape; they are shorter than the corresponding pedicels.
The white corollas of these flowers are about 8 mm. (1/3") long and similarly across; they are campanulate (bell-shaped) with 6 short lobes that curve outward. Within the corolla of each flower, there are 6 stamens with short filaments and a single style with a tripartite stigma. The ovary of each flower has 3 cells. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer, lasting about 3 weeks. The flowers are quite fragrant. When the flowers are successfully cross-pollinated from the pollen of genetically distinct plants, they develop red berries that are 6-8 mm. across and globoid in shape (one berry per fertile flower). The interior of each berry is juicy, containing 1-6 seeds. These seeds are 3-4 mm. long and light brown with darker scar tissue at their bases; they are more or less ovoid in shape, but also rather irregular and chunky. In North America, most flowering plants fail to produce berries. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Dense colonies of clonal plants are produced from the dense network of rhizomes; these colonies tend to exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Once it becomes established, this plant is long-lived, and it will spread slowly via its rhizomes. The leaves remain green throughout the summer until frost occurs during the autumn. Propagation of new plants is easiest by division of the rhizomes. If you want Lily-of-the-Valley to produce the attractive red berries, then you will need to plant genetically distinct plants in proximity to each other from two or more sources.
Range & Habitat: Lily-of-the-Valley has escaped from cultivation primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is uncommon in natural areas. This species was introduced into the United States from Europe as an ornamental plant; it is often grown in gardens because of the attractive foliage and flowers. In addition to the typical European variety that is described here (Convallaria majalis majalis), there is also a North American variety of Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis montana) that is native to the region of the Appalachian mountains. However, this North American variety is cultivated much less often than the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley, and it has not naturalized in Illinois to anyone's knowledge. In Illinois, the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley has naturalized in such habitats as tamarack bogs, rich deciduous woodlands, pioneer cemetery prairies, oak savannas near pioneer cemetery prairies, and abandoned homestead sites. At some of these habitats, Lily-of-the-Valley was deliberately introduced, where it has persisted for several decades, notwithstanding long neglect.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees and honeybees collect pollen from the flowers of Lily-of-the-Valley; nectar may not be produced (Vandepitte, 2010; Müller 1873/1883). Among bumblebee species, Bombus vagans and Bombus pensylvanicus have been observed to visit the flowers (Mathews, 1912). Insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of this plant are limited in number. An insect that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe, Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle), feeds on the leaves, while an aphid, Macrosiphum pechumani, sucks sap from this plant (Clark et al., 2004; Blackman & Eastop, 2013). The red berries probably attract birds and possibly some rodents, although because these berries are rarely produced in North America, it is unknown which species would consume them. According to Eriksson (1999), the seeds of these berries are eaten by voles and wood rats in Europe. Because all parts of Lily-of-the-Valley contain cardiac glycosides that are toxic, it is largely ignored by mammalian herbivores. Overall, the ecological value of this plant appears to be low.
Photographic Location: A wooded area at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden in the same city.
Comments: In addition to its cultivation in gardens, Lily-of-the-Valley has economic significance in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries. For the latter, it has been used as a source of heart medication. There are two varieties of Lily-of-the-Valley: the typical European variety (Convallaria majalis majalis) and the North American variety (Convallaria majalis montana). This latter variety can be distinguished by its larger floral bracts (at least 10 mm. in length) and the fine green lines along the midribs of its tepals (the tepals have been joined together to form a bell-shaped corolla for each flower). As compared to the European variety, the North American variety also appears to be less aggressive in forming large dense colonies of clonal plants.
The white corollas of these flowers are about 8 mm. (1/3") long and similarly across; they are campanulate (bell-shaped) with 6 short lobes that curve outward. Within the corolla of each flower, there are 6 stamens with short filaments and a single style with a tripartite stigma. The ovary of each flower has 3 cells. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer, lasting about 3 weeks. The flowers are quite fragrant. When the flowers are successfully cross-pollinated from the pollen of genetically distinct plants, they develop red berries that are 6-8 mm. across and globoid in shape (one berry per fertile flower). The interior of each berry is juicy, containing 1-6 seeds. These seeds are 3-4 mm. long and light brown with darker scar tissue at their bases; they are more or less ovoid in shape, but also rather irregular and chunky. In North America, most flowering plants fail to produce berries. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Dense colonies of clonal plants are produced from the dense network of rhizomes; these colonies tend to exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Once it becomes established, this plant is long-lived, and it will spread slowly via its rhizomes. The leaves remain green throughout the summer until frost occurs during the autumn. Propagation of new plants is easiest by division of the rhizomes. If you want Lily-of-the-Valley to produce the attractive red berries, then you will need to plant genetically distinct plants in proximity to each other from two or more sources.
Range & Habitat: Lily-of-the-Valley has escaped from cultivation primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is uncommon in natural areas. This species was introduced into the United States from Europe as an ornamental plant; it is often grown in gardens because of the attractive foliage and flowers. In addition to the typical European variety that is described here (Convallaria majalis majalis), there is also a North American variety of Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis montana) that is native to the region of the Appalachian mountains. However, this North American variety is cultivated much less often than the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley, and it has not naturalized in Illinois to anyone's knowledge. In Illinois, the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley has naturalized in such habitats as tamarack bogs, rich deciduous woodlands, pioneer cemetery prairies, oak savannas near pioneer cemetery prairies, and abandoned homestead sites. At some of these habitats, Lily-of-the-Valley was deliberately introduced, where it has persisted for several decades, notwithstanding long neglect.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees and honeybees collect pollen from the flowers of Lily-of-the-Valley; nectar may not be produced (Vandepitte, 2010; Müller 1873/1883). Among bumblebee species, Bombus vagans and Bombus pensylvanicus have been observed to visit the flowers (Mathews, 1912). Insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of this plant are limited in number. An insect that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe, Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle), feeds on the leaves, while an aphid, Macrosiphum pechumani, sucks sap from this plant (Clark et al., 2004; Blackman & Eastop, 2013). The red berries probably attract birds and possibly some rodents, although because these berries are rarely produced in North America, it is unknown which species would consume them. According to Eriksson (1999), the seeds of these berries are eaten by voles and wood rats in Europe. Because all parts of Lily-of-the-Valley contain cardiac glycosides that are toxic, it is largely ignored by mammalian herbivores. Overall, the ecological value of this plant appears to be low.
Photographic Location: A wooded area at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden in the same city.
Comments: In addition to its cultivation in gardens, Lily-of-the-Valley has economic significance in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries. For the latter, it has been used as a source of heart medication. There are two varieties of Lily-of-the-Valley: the typical European variety (Convallaria majalis majalis) and the North American variety (Convallaria majalis montana). This latter variety can be distinguished by its larger floral bracts (at least 10 mm. in length) and the fine green lines along the midribs of its tepals (the tepals have been joined together to form a bell-shaped corolla for each flower). As compared to the European variety, the North American variety also appears to be less aggressive in forming large dense colonies of clonal plants.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月31日
Description: This plant is a spring or summer annual that becomes 3-10" tall, branching occasionally. The narrow round stems are covered with white hairs. The lower leaves are opposite, while the middle to upper leaves are alternate. These leaves are up to 1" long and 1/6" (4 mm.) across. They are linear-oblong or linear-oblanceolate, with margins that are ciliate and smooth. From the axil of each middle or upper leaf, a single flower develops from a slender pedicel about 1" long. Sometimes a second flower develops from the leaf axil. Like the stems, these pedicels are covered with white hairs. The flowers are up to 1/4" in length. The corolla is tubular, with 5 spreading lobes in the front and a short spur in the back. The corolla has a small opening at the throat and is more or less two-lipped with 2 upper lobes and 3 lower lobes. It is variously colored, usually some shade of lavender, light purple, or white. Sometimes the corolla is bicolored, with the upper lobes lavender or light purple and the lower lobes white. There are usually a few hairs at the base of the lower lobes. The calyx is green or purplish green and quite hairy. It has 5 oblanceolate lobes that are almost as long as the corolla.
The blooming period occurs during the summer and it lasts about a month for a colony of plants. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by an ovoid capsule that contains numerous brown seeds. These seeds are tiny enough to be dispersed by gusts of wind. The root system consists of a slender taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This little plant prefers dry sunny conditions and a sterile soil that is sandy or gravelly. It also grows in partial sun and less dry conditions, in which case it will become somewhat taller and more leafy. In fertile soil, this plant is not competitive with taller vegetation. Alkaline soil is readily tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Dwarf Snapdragon has been reported from most counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is occasional to locally common. Habitats include gravelly areas along railroads (including the ballast), sandy or gravelly areas along roads, gravelly borders along buildings, and sterile waste areas. Disturbed areas are preferred. Dwarf Snapdragon is especially common along railroads in part because the wind gusts produced by passing trains help to disperse the tiny seeds. This plant is adventive from the Mediterranean area of Europe. It is less common along railroad tracks than formerly because of the application of herbicides.
Faunal Association: Little information is available about floral-faunal relationships. The flowers are pollinated by small bees, although they are also capable of self-pollination. The seeds are too small to be of any interest to birds, and the insubstantial foliage is unlikely to provide much nourishment to mammalian herbivores. Humans assist in the dispersal of the seeds of this plant because of their passing trains and motor vehicles, as noted above.
Photographic Location: A border along a building that was filled with pebbles. This building was located along a railroad in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Sometimes this plant is called "Small Snapdragon" and "Lesser Toadflax." It resembles the Linaria spp. (Toadflaxes) somewhat, except the throat of its corolla is less obstructed by fuzzy hairs and a palate covers the lower lip. Dwarf Snapdragon is one of the members of a group of plants that colonize disturbed sterile soil; these species are ecologically significant because they help to stabilize and restore the fertility of the soil. An alternative spelling of the scientific name for this plant is Chaenorrhinum minus.
The blooming period occurs during the summer and it lasts about a month for a colony of plants. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by an ovoid capsule that contains numerous brown seeds. These seeds are tiny enough to be dispersed by gusts of wind. The root system consists of a slender taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This little plant prefers dry sunny conditions and a sterile soil that is sandy or gravelly. It also grows in partial sun and less dry conditions, in which case it will become somewhat taller and more leafy. In fertile soil, this plant is not competitive with taller vegetation. Alkaline soil is readily tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Dwarf Snapdragon has been reported from most counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is occasional to locally common. Habitats include gravelly areas along railroads (including the ballast), sandy or gravelly areas along roads, gravelly borders along buildings, and sterile waste areas. Disturbed areas are preferred. Dwarf Snapdragon is especially common along railroads in part because the wind gusts produced by passing trains help to disperse the tiny seeds. This plant is adventive from the Mediterranean area of Europe. It is less common along railroad tracks than formerly because of the application of herbicides.
Faunal Association: Little information is available about floral-faunal relationships. The flowers are pollinated by small bees, although they are also capable of self-pollination. The seeds are too small to be of any interest to birds, and the insubstantial foliage is unlikely to provide much nourishment to mammalian herbivores. Humans assist in the dispersal of the seeds of this plant because of their passing trains and motor vehicles, as noted above.
Photographic Location: A border along a building that was filled with pebbles. This building was located along a railroad in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Sometimes this plant is called "Small Snapdragon" and "Lesser Toadflax." It resembles the Linaria spp. (Toadflaxes) somewhat, except the throat of its corolla is less obstructed by fuzzy hairs and a palate covers the lower lip. Dwarf Snapdragon is one of the members of a group of plants that colonize disturbed sterile soil; these species are ecologically significant because they help to stabilize and restore the fertility of the soil. An alternative spelling of the scientific name for this plant is Chaenorrhinum minus.
1
0
Pommy Mommy：My drawf SNAPDRAGONS planted from seed. I live in Ohio and I cannot believe how phenomenal they grew for me! I ended up getting four different varieties of colors each plant is two colors, pink and yellow, orange and yellow, red and orange, and red and yellow have all bloomed so far and I just found another flower pot with more growing as a border (a lot of times when I have sure seeds make a little border ring around the edge of the pot). I just planted my Hundred flower pot! YES, you read that correctly 100! and those are just what I have in pots, I don't count with planted in the ground.
