文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月31日
Description: This plant is a winter or spring annual that becomes 4-10" tall. It has a small tuft of erect to ascending leafy stems; these stems are light green to dark purple, terete, and hairy. Along each stem, there are pairs of sessile opposite leaves at intervals. Individual leaves are up to ¾" long and about half as much across; they are medium green, bluntly ovate, broadly oblong, or obovate with smooth margins. Both the lower and upper surfaces of each leaf are covered with hairs. The hairs on the stems and leaves may have a sticky texture from minute glandular secretions.
Each stem terminates in a dense cluster of flowers; in addition, individual or small clusters of flowers may develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Each small flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 white petals, 5 green sepals, 10 stamens, and a pistil with 5 styles. The tips of the petals are notched. The lanceolate sepals have long forward-pointing hairs and membranous margins. The hairy pedicel of each flower is no longer than 5 mm. (1/5") in length, even when it has transformed into a seed capsule. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer and lasts about 3-4 weeks. Each flower transforms into a cylindrical seed capsule that is up to twice the length of the persistent sepals. This seed capsule is membranous along the sides and open at the apex, where there are 10 tiny teeth. At the bottom of this capsule, there are several tiny seeds. Each seed is obovoid or heart-shaped, somewhat flattened, and minutely pebbly on the outer surface. The root system is shallow and fibrous. This plant spreads by reseeding itself; it often forms colonies in favorable habitats.
Cultivation: This little weed prefers partial to full sun and moist to slightly dry conditions. It is often found in soil containing loam, clay-loam, or other material. This species can invade lawns to some extent.
Range & Habitat: Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is not native. Habitats include openings in rocky woodlands, grassy meadows, lawns, pastures, fallow fields, roadsides, and waste ground. Areas with a history of disturbance are preferred. This species is native to Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract small bees (Halictid & others) and flies (Syrphid & others). The caterpillars of the moths Agrostis venerabilis (Venerable Dart), Haematopis grataria (Chickweed Geometer), and Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave) feed on chickweeds. Among vertebrate animals, the Mourning Dove and various sparrows occasionally eat the seeds, while the foliage is eaten by the Cottontail Rabbit and Woodchuck.
Photographic Location: A lawn at a state park in west-central Indiana.
Comments: The distinctive characteristic of this chickweed is its dense cluster(s) of flowers. In particular, the pedicels of the flowers are the same length or shorter than the sepals (5 mm. or less). Several other species of chickweeds are similar in appearance, but at least some of their pedicels exceed 5 mm. in length (particularly when their flowers have transformed into seed capsules). The sepals of Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed are somewhat unusual because they are covered with long forward-pointing hairs that may extend beyond their margins; other species of chickweed have sepals with shorter hairs. In general, the various species in the Cerastium genus are called "Mouse-Eared Chickweeds" because of the shape and hairiness of their leaves; these species usually have 10 stamens and 5 styles per flower. A scientific synonym of Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed is Cerastium viscosum. Because of this defunct scientific name, this species is sometimes called "Clammy Mouse-Eared Chickweed."
Each stem terminates in a dense cluster of flowers; in addition, individual or small clusters of flowers may develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Each small flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 white petals, 5 green sepals, 10 stamens, and a pistil with 5 styles. The tips of the petals are notched. The lanceolate sepals have long forward-pointing hairs and membranous margins. The hairy pedicel of each flower is no longer than 5 mm. (1/5") in length, even when it has transformed into a seed capsule. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer and lasts about 3-4 weeks. Each flower transforms into a cylindrical seed capsule that is up to twice the length of the persistent sepals. This seed capsule is membranous along the sides and open at the apex, where there are 10 tiny teeth. At the bottom of this capsule, there are several tiny seeds. Each seed is obovoid or heart-shaped, somewhat flattened, and minutely pebbly on the outer surface. The root system is shallow and fibrous. This plant spreads by reseeding itself; it often forms colonies in favorable habitats.
Cultivation: This little weed prefers partial to full sun and moist to slightly dry conditions. It is often found in soil containing loam, clay-loam, or other material. This species can invade lawns to some extent.
Range & Habitat: Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is not native. Habitats include openings in rocky woodlands, grassy meadows, lawns, pastures, fallow fields, roadsides, and waste ground. Areas with a history of disturbance are preferred. This species is native to Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract small bees (Halictid & others) and flies (Syrphid & others). The caterpillars of the moths Agrostis venerabilis (Venerable Dart), Haematopis grataria (Chickweed Geometer), and Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave) feed on chickweeds. Among vertebrate animals, the Mourning Dove and various sparrows occasionally eat the seeds, while the foliage is eaten by the Cottontail Rabbit and Woodchuck.
Photographic Location: A lawn at a state park in west-central Indiana.
Comments: The distinctive characteristic of this chickweed is its dense cluster(s) of flowers. In particular, the pedicels of the flowers are the same length or shorter than the sepals (5 mm. or less). Several other species of chickweeds are similar in appearance, but at least some of their pedicels exceed 5 mm. in length (particularly when their flowers have transformed into seed capsules). The sepals of Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed are somewhat unusual because they are covered with long forward-pointing hairs that may extend beyond their margins; other species of chickweed have sepals with shorter hairs. In general, the various species in the Cerastium genus are called "Mouse-Eared Chickweeds" because of the shape and hairiness of their leaves; these species usually have 10 stamens and 5 styles per flower. A scientific synonym of Glomerate Mouse-Eared Chickweed is Cerastium viscosum. Because of this defunct scientific name, this species is sometimes called "Clammy Mouse-Eared Chickweed."
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月25日
Description: This plant is a summer annual that becomes 2-8' tall, branching occasionally. The stems are usually glabrous and glaucous; sometimes they have scattered stiff hairs toward the base. The alternate leaves are up to 10" long and 3" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. The lower leaves are pinnately lobed and obovate in outline, tapering to a long and rather stout petiole. The terminal lobe is much larger than the lateral lobes. The upper surface of a lower leaf is often bristly with scattered hairs that are stiff, short, and white. The lower surface is usually glabrous, except for a few hairs along the central vein. The upper leaves are often lanceolate, broadly elliptic, or some other odd shape; they have 1-2 lobes or none.
The upper stems terminate in narrow racemes of yellow flowers; these racemes are ½–2' long when fully mature. Each flower is up to 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 sepals, several stamens, and a pistil. The sepals are initially green, but become yellow while the flower blooms. The petals are well-rounded toward their tips. The blooming period occurs primarily during the summer and lasts about 1-2 months. A few plants may bloom during the fall. Each flower is replaced by a slender silique that becomes appressed against the stalk of the raceme as it matures. This silique is about 2/3" (17 mm.) long, tapering to a conical beak. The petiole of the silique (or flower) is about 1/3" (8 mm.) long. The seeds within this silique are dark brown or black. Both the seeds and the foliage have a pungent taste. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This plant often occurs in full or partial sun, fertile soil, and mesic conditions. On less fertile ground, it is smaller in size. During hot sunny weather the leaves have a tendency to wilt, but they quickly recover by nightfall. Sometimes this plant becomes lanky and flops sideways.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Black Mustard is a common plant in central and northern Illinois, but it is less common or absent in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include weedy meadows, thickets, areas along railroads and roadsides, fallow fields, vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste places. Disturbed areas are preferred; Black Mustard doesn't invade high quality natural areas to any significant degree. It is native to Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily small bees and flower flies; less common visitors include White butterflies and wasps. The foliage is occasionally eaten by the caterpillars of various White butterflies, including Pieris rapae (Cabbage White) and Pontia protodice (Checkered White). The pungent foliage is usually avoided by mammalian herbivores; it is somewhat toxic to them.
Photographic Location: Along a railroad in a partially shaded area in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: If you see a lanky mustard plant with narrow stalks of yellow flowers that is over your head, there's a good chance that it's Black Mustard. The seeds of Black Mustard are often used in the table condiment, hot mustard. Among the many Brassica spp. and Synapis spp. (Mustards), Black Mustard can be identified by considering the following characteristics: 1) It is often quite tall, 2) the slender siliques are appressed together near the stalk of each raceme, 3) the siliques are less than ¾" long and they have distinct beaks, 4) the leaves narrowly clasp the stems, 5) the terminal lobes of the lower leaves are much larger than the lateral lobes, and 6) the lower leaves often have short stiff hairs and feel bristly to the touch. Other mustards are often lacking one or more of these features.
The upper stems terminate in narrow racemes of yellow flowers; these racemes are ½–2' long when fully mature. Each flower is up to 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 sepals, several stamens, and a pistil. The sepals are initially green, but become yellow while the flower blooms. The petals are well-rounded toward their tips. The blooming period occurs primarily during the summer and lasts about 1-2 months. A few plants may bloom during the fall. Each flower is replaced by a slender silique that becomes appressed against the stalk of the raceme as it matures. This silique is about 2/3" (17 mm.) long, tapering to a conical beak. The petiole of the silique (or flower) is about 1/3" (8 mm.) long. The seeds within this silique are dark brown or black. Both the seeds and the foliage have a pungent taste. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This plant often occurs in full or partial sun, fertile soil, and mesic conditions. On less fertile ground, it is smaller in size. During hot sunny weather the leaves have a tendency to wilt, but they quickly recover by nightfall. Sometimes this plant becomes lanky and flops sideways.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Black Mustard is a common plant in central and northern Illinois, but it is less common or absent in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include weedy meadows, thickets, areas along railroads and roadsides, fallow fields, vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste places. Disturbed areas are preferred; Black Mustard doesn't invade high quality natural areas to any significant degree. It is native to Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily small bees and flower flies; less common visitors include White butterflies and wasps. The foliage is occasionally eaten by the caterpillars of various White butterflies, including Pieris rapae (Cabbage White) and Pontia protodice (Checkered White). The pungent foliage is usually avoided by mammalian herbivores; it is somewhat toxic to them.
Photographic Location: Along a railroad in a partially shaded area in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: If you see a lanky mustard plant with narrow stalks of yellow flowers that is over your head, there's a good chance that it's Black Mustard. The seeds of Black Mustard are often used in the table condiment, hot mustard. Among the many Brassica spp. and Synapis spp. (Mustards), Black Mustard can be identified by considering the following characteristics: 1) It is often quite tall, 2) the slender siliques are appressed together near the stalk of each raceme, 3) the siliques are less than ¾" long and they have distinct beaks, 4) the leaves narrowly clasp the stems, 5) the terminal lobes of the lower leaves are much larger than the lateral lobes, and 6) the lower leaves often have short stiff hairs and feel bristly to the touch. Other mustards are often lacking one or more of these features.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea variation gemmifera) are hardy biennial plants that typically are grown as annuals and do well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. Usually reaching 2 to 3 feet tall, the cool-weather plants thrive in air temperatures ranging from 45 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand frost, which reportedly makes the flavor of their vegetable portions -- sprouts -- even sweeter. The sprouts, which resemble tiny cabbages, usually take 80 to 100 days to mature. Harvest them when they are about 1 inch in diameter.
Growing the Plants from Seeds
Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks.
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area
Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area.
Planting Procedure
Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool.
Caring for the Plants
Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil.
Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests
Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.
Growing the Plants from Seeds
Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks.
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area
Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area.
Planting Procedure
Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool.
Caring for the Plants
Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil.
Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests
Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Radishes are one of the first vegetables ready for harvest in the spring. Most varieties have a maturity date of approximately 25 days from planting, and you can sow the seeds every 10 to 14 days until the weather turns hot. Radishes are also planted in mid-summer for a fall crop. Winter storage radishes grow larger and do not mature until 50 to 70 days after planting. Edible pod radishes are grown for their seedpods, which mature in 50 days. Growing conditions affect the final maturity date, so consider the harvest dates printed on seed packets to be estimates.
Small Radishes
When you plant the seeds, record the expected maturity date.
Record the expected maturity date for each radish variety the day you plant the seeds. Use a waterproof marker to write the date on a plastic row label or jot it in a notebook.
picking vegetables
Check the radishes five to seven days before the maturity date by pulling one from the ground. Harvest the sample radish by grasping the bottom of the foliage near the soil and firmly pulling upward. If the radish is 1/2 to 1 inch across, the crop is ready to harvest.
Fresh radish from ground
Remove the leaves with garden snips, wash the radishes and place them in plastic bags. They will keep for two to four weeks in the refrigerator.
Winter Radishes
Harvest winter radishes any time after the expected harvest date. You may leave them in the ground until two weeks before the first frost date in the fall.
picking vegetables
Pick winter radishes by grasping the foliage near the soil and pulling upward.
food refrigerator
Store the radishes where they will remain cool and moist, for up to two months.
Edible Pod Radishes
Check the plants every two to three days after the blossoms appear. The pods resemble green beans, with the lower pods ripening first.
Fresh Salad
Harvest the pods when they are the thickness of a pencil for peak flavor. Pick a rat-tail radish by grasping the small stem at one end of the pod and bending it to the side until it snaps it off where the stem attaches to the branch.
"Russian traditional Okroshka, summer soup"
Use edible pod radishes soon after picking them or store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Small Radishes
When you plant the seeds, record the expected maturity date.
Record the expected maturity date for each radish variety the day you plant the seeds. Use a waterproof marker to write the date on a plastic row label or jot it in a notebook.
picking vegetables
Check the radishes five to seven days before the maturity date by pulling one from the ground. Harvest the sample radish by grasping the bottom of the foliage near the soil and firmly pulling upward. If the radish is 1/2 to 1 inch across, the crop is ready to harvest.
Fresh radish from ground
Remove the leaves with garden snips, wash the radishes and place them in plastic bags. They will keep for two to four weeks in the refrigerator.
Winter Radishes
Harvest winter radishes any time after the expected harvest date. You may leave them in the ground until two weeks before the first frost date in the fall.
picking vegetables
Pick winter radishes by grasping the foliage near the soil and pulling upward.
food refrigerator
Store the radishes where they will remain cool and moist, for up to two months.
Edible Pod Radishes
Check the plants every two to three days after the blossoms appear. The pods resemble green beans, with the lower pods ripening first.
Fresh Salad
Harvest the pods when they are the thickness of a pencil for peak flavor. Pick a rat-tail radish by grasping the small stem at one end of the pod and bending it to the side until it snaps it off where the stem attaches to the branch.
"Russian traditional Okroshka, summer soup"
Use edible pod radishes soon after picking them or store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to one week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月10日
Description: This herbaceous plant is a winter or spring annual, producing leafy and flowering stems about 4-18" (10-45 cm.) long. These stems branch primarily near the base of the plant and they are ascending to widely sprawling. Individual stems are whitish green to light reddish green, terete, and woolly-pubescent. Alternate leaves occur along these stems that are ¾-2" (2-5 cm.) long and about one-half as much across; they are broadly oblong in outline, while their structure is deeply bipinnatifid. The ultimate leaf segments are 1.5-5.0 mm. long and about one-third as much across; these segments are oblong-acute in shape. The leaves are pale green and they are covered with short woolly pubescence that becomes more sparse with age. The short petioles are relatively broad, flattened, and whitish green to nearly white; they usually have simple or pinnate lobes along their margins that resemble the leaf segments.
The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads that span about ¾-1¼" (2-3 cm.) across; these flowerheads have peduncles that are 1½-6" (4-15 cm.) in length. These peduncles are pale green, terete, and woolly-pubescent. Usually, small alternate bracts occur along the peduncles that resemble the leaves. Each daisy-like flowerhead has 10-18 ray florets that surround numerous disk florets; the ray florets are fertile and pistillate, while the disk florets are fertile and perfect. The petaloid rays of the ray florets are white, oblong in shape, and notched at their tips. The tiny corollas of the disk florets are yellow, tubular in shape, and 5-lobed at their apices; these lobes are triangular in shape. Alongside the disk florets, there are chaffy scales about 4 mm. in length. These scales are oblanceolate in shape and their tips are acute; sometimes these tips are awn-like. At the base of each flowerhead, there are 1-2 series of phyllaries (floral bracts) that are broadly oblong in shape. Individual phyllaries have convex central ridges that are light green, wide membranous margins that are white to light brown, and woolly pubescence; the phyllaries become chaffy with age. The foliage of this plant lacks a significant fragrance, although the crushed flowerheads are mildly fragrant (resembling apple-pineapple). The flowerheads are solid, lacking hollow centers. The blooming period usually occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1-2 months, although some plants may bloom later in the year.
At maturity, the seedheads are ovoid in shape. The achenes are 1.5-2.5 mm. in length, oblanceoloid in shape, and slightly 4-angled; they are truncate at their apices, where they lack tufts of hair or significant scales. The sides of mature achenes have longitudinal ribs that are readily visible. The achenes are distributed to a limited extent by wind and probably by water at some locations. The root system consists of a shallow much-branched taproot or it is fibrous. Reproduction is by seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and a calcareous soil containing clay-loam, loam, silt, gravel, or sand. Drought tolerance is good. The seeds can remain viable in the ground for 10 years or more (Kay, 1971).
Range & Habitat: Field Chamomile has been found in scattered locations across Illinois (see Distribution Map), but this non-native plant is relatively uncommon within the state. It was introduced into North America from Eurasia, where it is native. In Illinois, habitats consist of fallow fields, roadsides, flood zones along drainage canals and retention ponds, vacant lots and abandoned homestead sites, and waste areas. Highly disturbed areas are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads probably attract small bees, various flies (including Syrphid flies), and other insects. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards to such visitors. Insects that feed destructively on Field Chamomile and other Anthemis spp. include Polymerus basalis (Red-Spotted Aster Mirid) and two aphids, Macrosiphoniella tanacetaria and Macrosiphoniella tapuskae. The former aphid is typically found on the flowerheads, peduncles, and upper stems, while the latter aphid is typically found on the lower leaves. The polyphagous caterpillars of a moth, Orthonama obstipata (The Gem), have been reported to feed on mayweeds by Covell (1984/2005). Field Chamomile belongs to the group of plants that are commonly referred to as mayweeds in Europe. The foliage of Field Chamomile is probably browsed sparingly by mammalian herbivores, while Canada Geese seem to avoid it. Because the seeds can pass through the gastrointestinal tracts of both cattle and pigeons and remain viable (Kay, 1971), these animals may spread them to new areas. It is also possible for the seeds to cling to the bottoms of the muddy shoes of people and the muddy hoofs of animals, by which means they can spread to new areas.
Photographic Location: Along a drainage canal and retention pond area in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Field Chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) is one of the plants that are commonly referred to as mayweeds. Examples of these species include Anthemis cotula (Dog Fennel), Chamaemelum nobile (Roman Chamomile), Matricaria recutita (German Chamomile), and Tripleurospermum perforatum (Scentless Chamomile). As a group, they are difficult to distinguish from each other. All of these species have daisy-like flowerheads that resemble those of Leucanthemum vulgare (Ox-Eye Daisy), but their foliage is deeply dissected (typically bipinnatifid). Field Chamomile can be distinguished from other mayweeds by its flat leaf-segments (rather than terete leaf-segments), by the presence and shape of the chaffy scales in its flowerheads, by the woolly pubescence of its foliage, and by the appearance of its achenes. The foliage of Field Chamomile lacks the pleasant fragrance of Roman Chamomile, nor does it possess the unpleasant odor of Dog Fennel. Similar to German Chamomile, the crushed flowerheads of Field Chamomile are mildly fragrant, but it has completely solid flowerheads, whereas the flowerheads of German Chamomile have interiors that are partly hollow.
The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads that span about ¾-1¼" (2-3 cm.) across; these flowerheads have peduncles that are 1½-6" (4-15 cm.) in length. These peduncles are pale green, terete, and woolly-pubescent. Usually, small alternate bracts occur along the peduncles that resemble the leaves. Each daisy-like flowerhead has 10-18 ray florets that surround numerous disk florets; the ray florets are fertile and pistillate, while the disk florets are fertile and perfect. The petaloid rays of the ray florets are white, oblong in shape, and notched at their tips. The tiny corollas of the disk florets are yellow, tubular in shape, and 5-lobed at their apices; these lobes are triangular in shape. Alongside the disk florets, there are chaffy scales about 4 mm. in length. These scales are oblanceolate in shape and their tips are acute; sometimes these tips are awn-like. At the base of each flowerhead, there are 1-2 series of phyllaries (floral bracts) that are broadly oblong in shape. Individual phyllaries have convex central ridges that are light green, wide membranous margins that are white to light brown, and woolly pubescence; the phyllaries become chaffy with age. The foliage of this plant lacks a significant fragrance, although the crushed flowerheads are mildly fragrant (resembling apple-pineapple). The flowerheads are solid, lacking hollow centers. The blooming period usually occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1-2 months, although some plants may bloom later in the year.
At maturity, the seedheads are ovoid in shape. The achenes are 1.5-2.5 mm. in length, oblanceoloid in shape, and slightly 4-angled; they are truncate at their apices, where they lack tufts of hair or significant scales. The sides of mature achenes have longitudinal ribs that are readily visible. The achenes are distributed to a limited extent by wind and probably by water at some locations. The root system consists of a shallow much-branched taproot or it is fibrous. Reproduction is by seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and a calcareous soil containing clay-loam, loam, silt, gravel, or sand. Drought tolerance is good. The seeds can remain viable in the ground for 10 years or more (Kay, 1971).
Range & Habitat: Field Chamomile has been found in scattered locations across Illinois (see Distribution Map), but this non-native plant is relatively uncommon within the state. It was introduced into North America from Eurasia, where it is native. In Illinois, habitats consist of fallow fields, roadsides, flood zones along drainage canals and retention ponds, vacant lots and abandoned homestead sites, and waste areas. Highly disturbed areas are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads probably attract small bees, various flies (including Syrphid flies), and other insects. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards to such visitors. Insects that feed destructively on Field Chamomile and other Anthemis spp. include Polymerus basalis (Red-Spotted Aster Mirid) and two aphids, Macrosiphoniella tanacetaria and Macrosiphoniella tapuskae. The former aphid is typically found on the flowerheads, peduncles, and upper stems, while the latter aphid is typically found on the lower leaves. The polyphagous caterpillars of a moth, Orthonama obstipata (The Gem), have been reported to feed on mayweeds by Covell (1984/2005). Field Chamomile belongs to the group of plants that are commonly referred to as mayweeds in Europe. The foliage of Field Chamomile is probably browsed sparingly by mammalian herbivores, while Canada Geese seem to avoid it. Because the seeds can pass through the gastrointestinal tracts of both cattle and pigeons and remain viable (Kay, 1971), these animals may spread them to new areas. It is also possible for the seeds to cling to the bottoms of the muddy shoes of people and the muddy hoofs of animals, by which means they can spread to new areas.
Photographic Location: Along a drainage canal and retention pond area in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: Field Chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) is one of the plants that are commonly referred to as mayweeds. Examples of these species include Anthemis cotula (Dog Fennel), Chamaemelum nobile (Roman Chamomile), Matricaria recutita (German Chamomile), and Tripleurospermum perforatum (Scentless Chamomile). As a group, they are difficult to distinguish from each other. All of these species have daisy-like flowerheads that resemble those of Leucanthemum vulgare (Ox-Eye Daisy), but their foliage is deeply dissected (typically bipinnatifid). Field Chamomile can be distinguished from other mayweeds by its flat leaf-segments (rather than terete leaf-segments), by the presence and shape of the chaffy scales in its flowerheads, by the woolly pubescence of its foliage, and by the appearance of its achenes. The foliage of Field Chamomile lacks the pleasant fragrance of Roman Chamomile, nor does it possess the unpleasant odor of Dog Fennel. Similar to German Chamomile, the crushed flowerheads of Field Chamomile are mildly fragrant, but it has completely solid flowerheads, whereas the flowerheads of German Chamomile have interiors that are partly hollow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Onions are ideally suited for container gardening. Even a 6- to 10-inch container is large enough to get started, and can fit easily on a balcony or doorstep. Growing onions in containers is a perfect solution for space-challenged gardeners. As an added bonus, container gardening is easy on sore knees and backs as very little bending and stooping is required. Plant onions in spring and in a few weeks you'll have fresh, delicious onions.
Step 1
Purchase onion sets at a nursery or garden center. Sets, which are small onions that were started the previous year, are the easiest and most effective way of planting onions in containers. Small sets, which are smaller than a dime, are best for growing large onions for use in cooking or for slicing. Sets larger than a dime are best for growing small green onions often used in salads, and will be ready for harvest very quickly. Sets can be planted in March or April.
Step 2
Prepare a container at least 6 to 10 inches in diameter. Any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Fill the container with any good quality commercial potting soil.
Step 3
Plant large onion sets about 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Plant the sets close enough to touch, as the green onions will be harvested before crowding becomes problematic. Small sets, which will be used for large, dry onions, should be planted with 2 to 4 inches between each set.
Step 4
Water the onions immediately. Check the moisture daily by poking your finger into the top of the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, water the onions until water runs through the drainage hole. Don't water again until the top inch of the soil is dry. During hot, dry weather, onions may need water every day.
Step 5
Fertilize the onions two to four weeks after planting and repeat every two to three weeks. Use a regular water-soluble fertilizer applied according to the directions on the package. Alternatively, use a time-release granular fertilizer that can be mixed into the soil at planting time.
Step 6
Begin harvesting green onions when the tops are at least 6 inches tall. Green onions are best harvested when they are small, as the onions will develop a stronger flavor as they get larger.
Step 7
Harvest large onions in July or August when the tops of the plants begin to fall over. Harvest in the morning and lay the onions on top of the soil to dry until afternoon. Braid the tops of the onions in bunches of six to eight onions and hang the bunches in a warm, dry place to dry for two to three weeks
Step 1
Purchase onion sets at a nursery or garden center. Sets, which are small onions that were started the previous year, are the easiest and most effective way of planting onions in containers. Small sets, which are smaller than a dime, are best for growing large onions for use in cooking or for slicing. Sets larger than a dime are best for growing small green onions often used in salads, and will be ready for harvest very quickly. Sets can be planted in March or April.
Step 2
Prepare a container at least 6 to 10 inches in diameter. Any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Fill the container with any good quality commercial potting soil.
Step 3
Plant large onion sets about 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Plant the sets close enough to touch, as the green onions will be harvested before crowding becomes problematic. Small sets, which will be used for large, dry onions, should be planted with 2 to 4 inches between each set.
Step 4
Water the onions immediately. Check the moisture daily by poking your finger into the top of the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, water the onions until water runs through the drainage hole. Don't water again until the top inch of the soil is dry. During hot, dry weather, onions may need water every day.
Step 5
Fertilize the onions two to four weeks after planting and repeat every two to three weeks. Use a regular water-soluble fertilizer applied according to the directions on the package. Alternatively, use a time-release granular fertilizer that can be mixed into the soil at planting time.
Step 6
Begin harvesting green onions when the tops are at least 6 inches tall. Green onions are best harvested when they are small, as the onions will develop a stronger flavor as they get larger.
Step 7
Harvest large onions in July or August when the tops of the plants begin to fall over. Harvest in the morning and lay the onions on top of the soil to dry until afternoon. Braid the tops of the onions in bunches of six to eight onions and hang the bunches in a warm, dry place to dry for two to three weeks
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
A ripe rind is one sign a butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is ready to pick, and there are other signs. An annual winter squash vine, butternut squash grows 3/4 to 1 1/2 feet tall with a vine 10 to 15 feet long. Creamy-white to orange-yellow flowers appear in late spring and orange-fleshed fruits develop, which ripen in fall. Changes in the vine and changes in the color and texture of the fruit are some signs to look for that tell you butternut squash is ready for harvesting.
Days From Sowing
Providing severe weather conditions such as drought or prolonged cold temperatures don't occur, butternut squash fruits ripen a predictable number of days after sowing. In regular growing conditions, it takes 80 to 100 days after the seed was sown.
Drought stresses plants, and may speed up ripening. However, cold weather slows down butternut squash growth, and then fruit may ripen later than expected.
Vine Condition
When butternut squash fruits are ready for picking, the vine has done its job. It stops growing and begins to die back. If your butternut squash vine stops producing new shoots and leaves, and the existing leaves begin to yellow and wilt, the fruit is probably nearly ripe.
Skin Appearance
Butternut squash skin is light whitish-green, smooth and shiny while the fruit is growing. As they ripen, the fruits turn deep tan and become dull and dry.
Skin Texture
A change in skin texture is another sign of ripeness in butternut squash. Slightly soft when the fruit is growing, butternut squash skin becomes very tough when the fruit is ripe.
Harvest Time
When butternut squash fruit are ready to harvest, cut the stems with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
Cut the squash stems 1 inch from the fruit, and put them in a cool, dark, dry place. Don't allow the fruit to touch each other. Store the squash at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 to 75 percent humidity and it will keep for two to three months. Check the fruit every one or two weeks, and remove and discard any that look diseased or have begun to decay.
Days From Sowing
Providing severe weather conditions such as drought or prolonged cold temperatures don't occur, butternut squash fruits ripen a predictable number of days after sowing. In regular growing conditions, it takes 80 to 100 days after the seed was sown.
Drought stresses plants, and may speed up ripening. However, cold weather slows down butternut squash growth, and then fruit may ripen later than expected.
Vine Condition
When butternut squash fruits are ready for picking, the vine has done its job. It stops growing and begins to die back. If your butternut squash vine stops producing new shoots and leaves, and the existing leaves begin to yellow and wilt, the fruit is probably nearly ripe.
Skin Appearance
Butternut squash skin is light whitish-green, smooth and shiny while the fruit is growing. As they ripen, the fruits turn deep tan and become dull and dry.
Skin Texture
A change in skin texture is another sign of ripeness in butternut squash. Slightly soft when the fruit is growing, butternut squash skin becomes very tough when the fruit is ripe.
Harvest Time
When butternut squash fruit are ready to harvest, cut the stems with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
Cut the squash stems 1 inch from the fruit, and put them in a cool, dark, dry place. Don't allow the fruit to touch each other. Store the squash at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 to 75 percent humidity and it will keep for two to three months. Check the fruit every one or two weeks, and remove and discard any that look diseased or have begun to decay.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Green beans are a popular vegetable for the home garden. They grow quickly and require only sun and water. Pole varieties grow between 5 and 10 feet high, according to Cornell University, and require staking. Bush beans are compact and need no support.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
Spike of FlowerheadsDescription: This perennial plant is 2-5' tall and unbranched. The central stem is light green to purplish green, terete or slightly ridged, and glabrous to sparsely pubescent. The alternate leaves are up to 10" long and about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stem. Because of their dense distribution, they appear almost whorled. The leaves are linear in shape and their margins are smooth (entire). Each leaf has a distinct central vein. Both the upper and lower leaf surfaces are light to medium green and glabrous to sparsely hairy. The central stem terminates in a wand-like spike of flowerheads about 4-18" in length. These flowerheads are densely crowded along the spike, facing in all directions; they bloom at the top of the spike first, opening later below. Each flowerhead is about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 4-10 disk florets and no ray florets. The corolla of each disk floret is pink to purplish pink (rarely white) and narrowly tubular. The upper corolla divides in 5 small lobes that are lanceolate in shape and somewhat recurved. A deeply divided style is strongly exerted from the corolla; it is white to light pink, filiform, and sometimes slightly twisted or curved. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are appressed floral bracts (phyllaries) that are overlapping. These floral bracts are green to purple, glabrous, and oval in shape. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer, lasting about 3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by small achenes with stiff bristles at their apices; these bristles are light brown. The root system consists of a corm with shallow fibrous roots. Colonies of plants are often formed by means of clonal offsets that involve the production of new corms.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and sandy loam. Other soil types, such as loam and gravelly loam, are readily tolerated in cultivation. The soil should possess sufficient organic material to retain moisture. The height of this plant can vary considerably, depending on its maturity, soil moisture, and soil fertility. During hot dry weather, the lower leaves may wither away, otherwise this plant presents few problems.
Range & Habitat: The native Marsh Blazingstar occurs in NE Illinois and a few scattered counties elsewhere (see Distribution Map). It is an uncommon plant in the wild. Habitats include moist black soil prairies, moist sand prairies, prairie swales, edges of marshes and bogs, grassy fens, calcareous seeps, moist alkaline sandflats, and areas along railroads. This blazingstar is found primarily in higher quality natural areas, especially where it is sandy.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are cross-pollinated by bumblebees, long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), butterflies, and skippers. These insects suck nectar, although some of the bees also collect pollen for their larvae. Two uncommon prairie insects feed on Liatris spp. (blazingstars): caterpillars of Schinia sanguinea (Liatris Flower Moth) feed on the florets and developing seeds, while caterpillars of Carmenta anthracipennis (Liatris Borer Moth) bore through the stems. Mammalian herbivores eat this and other blazingstars readily; groundhogs and rabbits favor younger plants, while deer and livestock are more likely to browse on mature plants. The corms are eaten by the Prairie Vole and Meadow Vole. An overpopulation of these animals can make the establishment of this plant difficult in some areas.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a moist prairie in Meadowbrook Park, Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Marsh Blazingstar is a very attractive plant while in bloom, resembling a magic wand. It is more common in flower gardens than in the wild, although some cultivated plants may be hybrids with similar species. Among the various Liatris spp. (blazingstars) that are native to Illinois, Prairie Blazingstar (Liatris pycnostachya) probably resembles Marsh Blazingstar the most. However, this latter plant has floral bracts (phyllaries) that are strongly recurved, while the floral bracts of Marsh Blazingstar are appressed together and relatively smooth. Other blazingstars within the state are either shorter in height or they have larger flowerheads with more disk florets per head. While other blazingstars are typically found in mesic prairies and various upland habitats, Marsh Blazingstar is unusual in its preference for wetter habitats.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, moist conditions, and sandy loam. Other soil types, such as loam and gravelly loam, are readily tolerated in cultivation. The soil should possess sufficient organic material to retain moisture. The height of this plant can vary considerably, depending on its maturity, soil moisture, and soil fertility. During hot dry weather, the lower leaves may wither away, otherwise this plant presents few problems.
Range & Habitat: The native Marsh Blazingstar occurs in NE Illinois and a few scattered counties elsewhere (see Distribution Map). It is an uncommon plant in the wild. Habitats include moist black soil prairies, moist sand prairies, prairie swales, edges of marshes and bogs, grassy fens, calcareous seeps, moist alkaline sandflats, and areas along railroads. This blazingstar is found primarily in higher quality natural areas, especially where it is sandy.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are cross-pollinated by bumblebees, long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), butterflies, and skippers. These insects suck nectar, although some of the bees also collect pollen for their larvae. Two uncommon prairie insects feed on Liatris spp. (blazingstars): caterpillars of Schinia sanguinea (Liatris Flower Moth) feed on the florets and developing seeds, while caterpillars of Carmenta anthracipennis (Liatris Borer Moth) bore through the stems. Mammalian herbivores eat this and other blazingstars readily; groundhogs and rabbits favor younger plants, while deer and livestock are more likely to browse on mature plants. The corms are eaten by the Prairie Vole and Meadow Vole. An overpopulation of these animals can make the establishment of this plant difficult in some areas.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a moist prairie in Meadowbrook Park, Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Marsh Blazingstar is a very attractive plant while in bloom, resembling a magic wand. It is more common in flower gardens than in the wild, although some cultivated plants may be hybrids with similar species. Among the various Liatris spp. (blazingstars) that are native to Illinois, Prairie Blazingstar (Liatris pycnostachya) probably resembles Marsh Blazingstar the most. However, this latter plant has floral bracts (phyllaries) that are strongly recurved, while the floral bracts of Marsh Blazingstar are appressed together and relatively smooth. Other blazingstars within the state are either shorter in height or they have larger flowerheads with more disk florets per head. While other blazingstars are typically found in mesic prairies and various upland habitats, Marsh Blazingstar is unusual in its preference for wetter habitats.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
Description: This annual plant is about 3-10" tall and more or less erect. It form short side branches along the upper half of the central stem, and sometimes branches along its lower half as well. The stems are light green and pubescent. The middle to upper opposite leaves are lanceolate, oblanceolate, or ovate; they are up to 1¾" long and ½" across. In contrast, the lowermost opposite leaves are linear-oblong; they are about the same length as the other leaves, but more narrow. Both kinds of leaves are light to medium green, hairless, sessile, and dentate or smooth along the margins.
Individual flowers develop from the axils of the upper leaves on pedicels up to 1" long. Each flower has a tubular corolla about 1/3" long and a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth. The front of the corolla is mostly white, while its lower exterior is pale yellow or green with fine veins. The outer rim of the corolla has several spreading lobes that are short and rounded. Inside the corolla, there are 2 fertile stamens, 2 abortive stamens, and a slender style. The exterior of the calyx is green and pubescent; its teeth are slender and often recurved. At the base of each flower, there are a pair of small leafy bracts that are lanceolate or lanceolate-linear in shape. The blooming period can occur from late spring into the fall. While this is a long time period, individual plants usually bloom for only 1-2 months before they die down. Each flower is replaced by a small seed capsule that is ovoid and pointed at its apex; it contains many small seeds. The root system consists of a slender branching taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself, and it readily forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, wet conditions, and exposed muddy soil. Shallow water is tolerated if it is temporary. This opportunistic plant develops very quickly from seed when the ground is wet. It also dies down quickly after its seeds become mature.
Range & Habitat: Clammy Hedge Hyssop is occasional to locally common throughout Illinois, where it is native. Habitats include floodplain forests, muddy depressions in upland woodlands, gravelly seeps, degraded soggy meadows, mud puddles along woodland paths, and poorly drained fields. This little plant likes to colonize disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract Halictid bees and other small bees. The tiny seeds probably cling to the feet of animals and the shoes of humans as they pass through the muddy areas where this plant grows. Later, these seeds are released into new areas where they may germinate.
Photographic Location: A muddy depression in Busey Woods, Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is another small annual in the Figwort family. Unless a large colony happens to be in bloom, it is easy to overlook. Clammy Hedge Hyssop can be distinguished from a similar species, Gratiola virginiana (Round-Fruited Hedge Hyssop), by its pubescent stems and ovoid seed capsules. In contrast, the latter species has succulent glabrous stems and globoid seed capsules. Another small annual in the Figwort family that likes wetland areas, Lindernia dubia (False Pimpernel), lacks pairs of leafy bracts underneath its flowers. Its leaves are usually wider in shape and more shiny than those of Clammy Hedge Hyssop. In spite of the common name, Clammy Hedge Hyssop is not normally found around hedges. This probably refers to the habitat preferences of a European species in this genus.
Individual flowers develop from the axils of the upper leaves on pedicels up to 1" long. Each flower has a tubular corolla about 1/3" long and a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth. The front of the corolla is mostly white, while its lower exterior is pale yellow or green with fine veins. The outer rim of the corolla has several spreading lobes that are short and rounded. Inside the corolla, there are 2 fertile stamens, 2 abortive stamens, and a slender style. The exterior of the calyx is green and pubescent; its teeth are slender and often recurved. At the base of each flower, there are a pair of small leafy bracts that are lanceolate or lanceolate-linear in shape. The blooming period can occur from late spring into the fall. While this is a long time period, individual plants usually bloom for only 1-2 months before they die down. Each flower is replaced by a small seed capsule that is ovoid and pointed at its apex; it contains many small seeds. The root system consists of a slender branching taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself, and it readily forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, wet conditions, and exposed muddy soil. Shallow water is tolerated if it is temporary. This opportunistic plant develops very quickly from seed when the ground is wet. It also dies down quickly after its seeds become mature.
Range & Habitat: Clammy Hedge Hyssop is occasional to locally common throughout Illinois, where it is native. Habitats include floodplain forests, muddy depressions in upland woodlands, gravelly seeps, degraded soggy meadows, mud puddles along woodland paths, and poorly drained fields. This little plant likes to colonize disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract Halictid bees and other small bees. The tiny seeds probably cling to the feet of animals and the shoes of humans as they pass through the muddy areas where this plant grows. Later, these seeds are released into new areas where they may germinate.
Photographic Location: A muddy depression in Busey Woods, Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is another small annual in the Figwort family. Unless a large colony happens to be in bloom, it is easy to overlook. Clammy Hedge Hyssop can be distinguished from a similar species, Gratiola virginiana (Round-Fruited Hedge Hyssop), by its pubescent stems and ovoid seed capsules. In contrast, the latter species has succulent glabrous stems and globoid seed capsules. Another small annual in the Figwort family that likes wetland areas, Lindernia dubia (False Pimpernel), lacks pairs of leafy bracts underneath its flowers. Its leaves are usually wider in shape and more shiny than those of Clammy Hedge Hyssop. In spite of the common name, Clammy Hedge Hyssop is not normally found around hedges. This probably refers to the habitat preferences of a European species in this genus.
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