文章
笼岛 みどり
2017年05月23日
暑い夏に比べ、綺麗なお花が長持ちするこの季節、ついついお花を連れて帰ってしまいます。11月に、町のお花屋さんで実際に購入した旬のお花をいくつか紹介したいと思います。
１．秋色紫陽花とグリーンのブーケ
グリーンを基調に、濃紫がアクセントになっています。
お花屋さんから、ドライもおススメとの助言を受け、2週間ほど活けた後、ドライにしました。何気に初ドライフラワーです。
２．ちびダリア
芸術的な花弁と濃淡の色の重なりに惚れました。大振りのダリアも華やかですが、小ぶりのものも可憐ですね。
３．リューカデンドロ ジェイドパール
実ものリューカ。クリスマスのリース装飾などにもよく使われるそうです。多肉っぽい白い葉が特徴のマイアレナと合わせました。こちらも、しばらく活けた後、ドライにしました。
４．スプレーバラ
なんといってもお手頃！これで750円でした。通常のバラより小さめのお花ですが、一つの茎に複数お花がついているので、かなりボリュームが出ます。来客がある際に購入しました。葉っぱもたくさんついてきて、捨てるのが勿体なかったので、ベースの下に敷いてみました。
５．ダイヤモンドリリー
実は、初めて購入したのですが、花びらの表面がキラキラしていて、この輝きにびっくり！！
しばらく飾っていると、花が重いせいか茎が折れてきたので、花だけ切って、浅いガラスベースに活け替えました。より長く楽しめましたよ。
６．シレネ サクラコマチ
本来は夏が旬のナデシコのお花なのですが、今の時期には珍しかったので思わず購入してしまいました。小さく白い花びらがとても可愛らしいですよね。
私は、特に行きつけの花屋があるわけではなく、通りすがりのお店で、店員さんからおススメを聞いてみたり、気になった花を買うことが多いです。
その時々で目にとまった花が、自分に不足している養分だと思っています。
0
0
文章
笼岛 みどり
2017年05月23日
１０月１０日の誕生花
１０月１０日の誕生花は、「センニチコウ（千日紅）」です。
センニチコウは、ヒユ科ゴンフレナ属の一年草で、原産は北アメリカです。開花期は7～11月で、茎先に赤や白、ピンク、オレンジなどの丸い花を咲かせます。暑さと乾燥に強く、長期間咲き続けます。
センニチコウ（千日紅）について科・属 ヒユ科ゴンフレナ属和名 千日紅（センニチコウ）英名 Globe amaranth学名 Gomphrena globosa原産地 北アメリカ開花時期 7月～11月花名の由来
花名の千日紅（センニチコウ）は、百日咲き続けるといわれる百日紅（サルスベリ）よりも花期が長く、鮮やかな花色が褪せることなく咲き続けることからつけられました。
センニチコウ（千日紅）の花言葉と由来
センニチコウ（千日紅）の花言葉は、「変わらない愛情」「変わらぬ愛」「不朽」。
センニチコウの花言葉を風通しの良い日陰に逆さにつるしておくと、美しい色をほとんど損なわずに簡単にドライフラワーにできることから「変わらない愛情」や「変わらぬ愛」という花言葉がつけられました。
センニチコウのドライフラワー
もともと乾燥にも強いセンニチコウはドライフラワーにも最適です。茎を長めにして切り取り、まとめて逆さにつるしておくとドライフラワーにできます。鮮やかな色がほとんど損なわれずに簡単にドライになり、日数がたっても色は変わりません。
0
0
文章
Juze
2017年05月23日
Learn how to grow papaya tree. Growing papaya is perfect for gardeners who like to grow easy to grow fruit trees. Papaya tree care is simple, it is low maintenance and productive.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Banane de Prairie, Caricae Papayae Folium, Carica papaya, Carica peltata, Carica posoposa, Chirbhita, Erandachirbhita, Erand Karkati, Green Papaya, Mamaerie, Melonenbaumblaetter, Melon Tree, Papaw, Pawpaw, Papaya Fruit, Papayas, Papaye, Papaye Verte, Papayer, Papita.
Papaya (Carica papaya L.) is native to the tropics of Mexico and Central America. This fruit for high nutritional value, great taste and medicinal properties.
Papaya is mainly consumed as a fruit, but it is also used for making soft drinks, juices, pickles, jams, and curries. It produces latex that is extracted from the green fruit and stem, which contains an enzyme called papain that helps in digestion of proteins.
Plant Characteristics
Papaya is a herbaceous plant of relatively rapid growth and short life (not profitable to cultivate mature plants for longer than 3 years because the fruit yield gets low). It has a hollow, segmented and erect single stem and no branches. It presents a many large, lobed leaves. The plant height can reach up to several meters.
The fruit has a wide variety of forms, its shape and size vary depending on the variety and type of flower.
Pollination
If you’re growing papaya you must know that papayas come in three sexes: Male, female and hermaphrodite (bisexual). Male papaya trees must be eliminated as they don’t produce fruits. Female papaya trees require male tree for pollination. In orchards and papaya plantations, generally, 1 male tree per 10 female trees is grown. Bisexual papaya trees are self-pollinating and don’t require male trees for pollination. Commercial growers plant them. You will need to plant either female or bisexual papaya tree.
To learn how to identify male or female papaya, tree read this informative discussion on helpful gardener
Our recommendation for you is to buy seeds from quality source so that you know what you’re buying and to get a self-fertile bisexual tree. Most of the hybrid varieties that are coming are either bisexual or female, it is better to buy them. If you’re sowing seeds obtained from the fruits, choose seeds from elongated fruits instead of rounded fruits. Elongated fruits have 66% probability of hermaphrodite (bisexual) seeds and 33% female seeds.
Cross pollination from hand is required for pollination of female papaya trees.
How to Grow Papaya in Pots
Growing papaya in pots is not difficult, considering it is short living small tree. You can grow any papaya variety in pots but it is better to choose a dwarf variety.
Choosing a container
Choose a large 15-20 gallon size container for growing papaya in pots, also, ensure there are enough drainage holes in the bottom before planting. A pot that is around 18-22 inches in diameter and 12-15 inches deep would be sufficient.
Sow the seeds directly in the pot you wish to use for growing papaya tree as papayas don’t transplant well. All the other growing requirements are given below in the article.
Growing Papaya from Seeds
Seeds must be given treatment before sowing for germination. The first method is to simply wash the seeds to remove gelatinous coating before sowing. Another method is to immerse them in a container full of neutral water for the period of 4 days. Change the water twice in a day. After 2 days of soaking, separate the seeds that are floating on the surface from those that have settled down.
Leave the seeds that are settled down for another day. After this time, the seeds that float up again must be removed. This way only the viable papaya seeds are left. On the last day when changing the water, add fungicides in it.
After this process, keep the seeds on cotton cloth for 2 to 3 days, keeping up the seeds wet. Once the white dot in them can be observed they are ready for sowing.
Proceed to sow the seeds directly on the ground or in the pot or seed tray but remember that papaya trees don’t transplant well and you’ll have a low success rate. Seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks. Optimum germination temperature is around 70 F (20 C).
Planting Papaya Tree
Once the seedlings germinate sow them directly in a spot as papayas have less success rate when transplanted.
Prepare the ground well before planting. Make a hole in soil that is of the same depth as of rootball of the plant but twice wide. Apply slow release 16-48-0, 18-46-0 or balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer according to the product instruction at the base of the hole, fill it with a thin layer of soil to prevent the plant roots from coming in direct contact with the fertilizer.
The base of each plant should be 1 cm above ground level, to prevent rot at the stem base. After transplanting, a fungicide can be applied to ensure greater protection especially if planting during the rainy season.
How to Grow Papaya Tree in Cold Climate
Papaya is a tropical fruit tree but if you are thinking to plant it in a temperate climate plant it in a large pot and try to overwinter it in a well-protected area, like a greenhouse. Another way is to start the seeds in fall, or in early spring indoors. Once the temperature soars up to plant the seedlings outside. The tree will grow until the frost comes and get killed but there is a possibility that you’ll get some juicy papayas.
Requirements for Growing Papaya TreeTemperature
It is also an important factor that determines if the plant will grow or not. Papaya is one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow the optimum temperature for growing papaya ranges between 68 – 86 F (20 to 30 C).
Low temperatures lead to a slow growth of the plant and higher temperatures cause low production. However, papaya tree can bear cold temperature down to 32 F (0 C) for a short period of time. In extremely high tropical temperatures and in heat waves and droughts, flower buds fall and the plant suspends its growth.
Location
The papaya needs plenty of sun due to its high photosynthetic activity. It is impossible to grow it in the lack of sunlight. One more thing you need to keep in mind when choosing a location for growing papaya trees that they are not strongest and must not be planted in a too windy spot.
Spacing
Papaya trees must be spaced 8-10 feet apart from each other.
Soil
The main characteristics of soil for growing a papaya tree are following:
Loose and moist.With good drainage.High organic matter content.A pH level around 5.5 to 7 (Neutral).Fertile and deep.
The ideal growing medium must be loamy and have adequate content of organic matter with good moisture retention and efficient drainage. Soil depth is also an important factor for root development. The soil that is more than a meter deep is suitable. Compact soil must be avoided, also, clean the rocks or other debris that is limiting the development of roots till the following depth.
Drainage is crucial in papaya cultivation. The proportion of sand, silt and clay determines the texture and soil structure.
Sandy soils have better drainage than clay. But too sandy soils that are low in organic matter have reduced water retention capacity, which must be avoided.
In clay-rich soils, water movement is slow and this can lead to root rot, slow development of plant and inhibit nutrition uptake. In very alkaline soils (above pH level 8.0) Zinc, iron, and other micro-element deficiency can occur.
Excess water causes yellowing of young leaves, premature fall of flowers and contribute to root rot. Low moisture in the soil can lead to slow growth, accelerated aging and premature leaf and fruit drop.
Good soil preparation practices are key to growing papaya, such as deep plowing and mixing organic matter.
Watering
Water is the main contributor of the plant (the plant is composed about 85% of water). In the process of germination, and first few months after planting, papaya needs a lot of water, so at this stage water regularly.
In the dry season, to get the good results in production, watering must be increased again. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. As a rule of thumb, water papaya plant deeply when top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Papaya Tree Care
Papaya tree care is easy if you grow it in the warm conditions in full sun.
Mulching
Mulching papaya tree with organic matter helps in retaining moisture, which is essential.
Fertilizer
Papayas are heavy feeders. Apply plenty of manure or compost regularly near the base of your plant.
You can also apply complete fertilizer 15-15-15, 0.1 kg or a similar mixture at intervals of two weeks during the first six months and 0.2 kg thereafter.
Pruning
No pruning is required.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that can attack it are fruit flies, mites, black vine weevil, aphids, leafhoppers, and whitefly. In diseases, it suffers from soil fungi, powdery mildew, fruit rot, papaya ringspot virus, and nematodes.
Harvesting Papayas
Papaya fruit set occurs 10-12 months after planting. The fruit is sensitive to sunburn and it must be separated from the tree carefully using plastic gloves or something similar, pick it lightly with a twist or use a short knife, leaving 0.5 cm stalk.
Harvesting should be done according to the following maturity indices:
1. 0% Ripe: Completely green, but well developed.
2. 10-15% Ripe: Color change, one or two yellow stripes with 10-15% yellow surface shell surrounded by a bright green color.
3. 25% Ripe: 25% of the surface of the shell is yellow surrounded by the clear green color.
4. 75% Ripe: 75% of the surface is yellow.
5. 76-100% Ripe: The surface of the shell have yellow to orange color.
Papaya is a fruit that after being cut continues its maturation without stopping. Papayas that are harvested for selling in the market are harvested green with two or three yellow stripes as fruits that reach 75 to 100% maturity are difficult to transport. Fruits must be harvested in the early hours of the day and must not be exposed to the sun.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Banane de Prairie, Caricae Papayae Folium, Carica papaya, Carica peltata, Carica posoposa, Chirbhita, Erandachirbhita, Erand Karkati, Green Papaya, Mamaerie, Melonenbaumblaetter, Melon Tree, Papaw, Pawpaw, Papaya Fruit, Papayas, Papaye, Papaye Verte, Papayer, Papita.
Papaya (Carica papaya L.) is native to the tropics of Mexico and Central America. This fruit for high nutritional value, great taste and medicinal properties.
Papaya is mainly consumed as a fruit, but it is also used for making soft drinks, juices, pickles, jams, and curries. It produces latex that is extracted from the green fruit and stem, which contains an enzyme called papain that helps in digestion of proteins.
Plant Characteristics
Papaya is a herbaceous plant of relatively rapid growth and short life (not profitable to cultivate mature plants for longer than 3 years because the fruit yield gets low). It has a hollow, segmented and erect single stem and no branches. It presents a many large, lobed leaves. The plant height can reach up to several meters.
The fruit has a wide variety of forms, its shape and size vary depending on the variety and type of flower.
Pollination
If you’re growing papaya you must know that papayas come in three sexes: Male, female and hermaphrodite (bisexual). Male papaya trees must be eliminated as they don’t produce fruits. Female papaya trees require male tree for pollination. In orchards and papaya plantations, generally, 1 male tree per 10 female trees is grown. Bisexual papaya trees are self-pollinating and don’t require male trees for pollination. Commercial growers plant them. You will need to plant either female or bisexual papaya tree.
To learn how to identify male or female papaya, tree read this informative discussion on helpful gardener
Our recommendation for you is to buy seeds from quality source so that you know what you’re buying and to get a self-fertile bisexual tree. Most of the hybrid varieties that are coming are either bisexual or female, it is better to buy them. If you’re sowing seeds obtained from the fruits, choose seeds from elongated fruits instead of rounded fruits. Elongated fruits have 66% probability of hermaphrodite (bisexual) seeds and 33% female seeds.
Cross pollination from hand is required for pollination of female papaya trees.
How to Grow Papaya in Pots
Growing papaya in pots is not difficult, considering it is short living small tree. You can grow any papaya variety in pots but it is better to choose a dwarf variety.
Choosing a container
Choose a large 15-20 gallon size container for growing papaya in pots, also, ensure there are enough drainage holes in the bottom before planting. A pot that is around 18-22 inches in diameter and 12-15 inches deep would be sufficient.
Sow the seeds directly in the pot you wish to use for growing papaya tree as papayas don’t transplant well. All the other growing requirements are given below in the article.
Growing Papaya from Seeds
Seeds must be given treatment before sowing for germination. The first method is to simply wash the seeds to remove gelatinous coating before sowing. Another method is to immerse them in a container full of neutral water for the period of 4 days. Change the water twice in a day. After 2 days of soaking, separate the seeds that are floating on the surface from those that have settled down.
Leave the seeds that are settled down for another day. After this time, the seeds that float up again must be removed. This way only the viable papaya seeds are left. On the last day when changing the water, add fungicides in it.
After this process, keep the seeds on cotton cloth for 2 to 3 days, keeping up the seeds wet. Once the white dot in them can be observed they are ready for sowing.
Proceed to sow the seeds directly on the ground or in the pot or seed tray but remember that papaya trees don’t transplant well and you’ll have a low success rate. Seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks. Optimum germination temperature is around 70 F (20 C).
Planting Papaya Tree
Once the seedlings germinate sow them directly in a spot as papayas have less success rate when transplanted.
Prepare the ground well before planting. Make a hole in soil that is of the same depth as of rootball of the plant but twice wide. Apply slow release 16-48-0, 18-46-0 or balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer according to the product instruction at the base of the hole, fill it with a thin layer of soil to prevent the plant roots from coming in direct contact with the fertilizer.
The base of each plant should be 1 cm above ground level, to prevent rot at the stem base. After transplanting, a fungicide can be applied to ensure greater protection especially if planting during the rainy season.
How to Grow Papaya Tree in Cold Climate
Papaya is a tropical fruit tree but if you are thinking to plant it in a temperate climate plant it in a large pot and try to overwinter it in a well-protected area, like a greenhouse. Another way is to start the seeds in fall, or in early spring indoors. Once the temperature soars up to plant the seedlings outside. The tree will grow until the frost comes and get killed but there is a possibility that you’ll get some juicy papayas.
Requirements for Growing Papaya TreeTemperature
It is also an important factor that determines if the plant will grow or not. Papaya is one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow the optimum temperature for growing papaya ranges between 68 – 86 F (20 to 30 C).
Low temperatures lead to a slow growth of the plant and higher temperatures cause low production. However, papaya tree can bear cold temperature down to 32 F (0 C) for a short period of time. In extremely high tropical temperatures and in heat waves and droughts, flower buds fall and the plant suspends its growth.
Location
The papaya needs plenty of sun due to its high photosynthetic activity. It is impossible to grow it in the lack of sunlight. One more thing you need to keep in mind when choosing a location for growing papaya trees that they are not strongest and must not be planted in a too windy spot.
Spacing
Papaya trees must be spaced 8-10 feet apart from each other.
Soil
The main characteristics of soil for growing a papaya tree are following:
Loose and moist.With good drainage.High organic matter content.A pH level around 5.5 to 7 (Neutral).Fertile and deep.
The ideal growing medium must be loamy and have adequate content of organic matter with good moisture retention and efficient drainage. Soil depth is also an important factor for root development. The soil that is more than a meter deep is suitable. Compact soil must be avoided, also, clean the rocks or other debris that is limiting the development of roots till the following depth.
Drainage is crucial in papaya cultivation. The proportion of sand, silt and clay determines the texture and soil structure.
Sandy soils have better drainage than clay. But too sandy soils that are low in organic matter have reduced water retention capacity, which must be avoided.
In clay-rich soils, water movement is slow and this can lead to root rot, slow development of plant and inhibit nutrition uptake. In very alkaline soils (above pH level 8.0) Zinc, iron, and other micro-element deficiency can occur.
Excess water causes yellowing of young leaves, premature fall of flowers and contribute to root rot. Low moisture in the soil can lead to slow growth, accelerated aging and premature leaf and fruit drop.
Good soil preparation practices are key to growing papaya, such as deep plowing and mixing organic matter.
Watering
Water is the main contributor of the plant (the plant is composed about 85% of water). In the process of germination, and first few months after planting, papaya needs a lot of water, so at this stage water regularly.
In the dry season, to get the good results in production, watering must be increased again. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. As a rule of thumb, water papaya plant deeply when top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Papaya Tree Care
Papaya tree care is easy if you grow it in the warm conditions in full sun.
Mulching
Mulching papaya tree with organic matter helps in retaining moisture, which is essential.
Fertilizer
Papayas are heavy feeders. Apply plenty of manure or compost regularly near the base of your plant.
You can also apply complete fertilizer 15-15-15, 0.1 kg or a similar mixture at intervals of two weeks during the first six months and 0.2 kg thereafter.
Pruning
No pruning is required.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that can attack it are fruit flies, mites, black vine weevil, aphids, leafhoppers, and whitefly. In diseases, it suffers from soil fungi, powdery mildew, fruit rot, papaya ringspot virus, and nematodes.
Harvesting Papayas
Papaya fruit set occurs 10-12 months after planting. The fruit is sensitive to sunburn and it must be separated from the tree carefully using plastic gloves or something similar, pick it lightly with a twist or use a short knife, leaving 0.5 cm stalk.
Harvesting should be done according to the following maturity indices:
1. 0% Ripe: Completely green, but well developed.
2. 10-15% Ripe: Color change, one or two yellow stripes with 10-15% yellow surface shell surrounded by a bright green color.
3. 25% Ripe: 25% of the surface of the shell is yellow surrounded by the clear green color.
4. 75% Ripe: 75% of the surface is yellow.
5. 76-100% Ripe: The surface of the shell have yellow to orange color.
Papaya is a fruit that after being cut continues its maturation without stopping. Papayas that are harvested for selling in the market are harvested green with two or three yellow stripes as fruits that reach 75 to 100% maturity are difficult to transport. Fruits must be harvested in the early hours of the day and must not be exposed to the sun.
3
0
文章
小马奥
2017年05月23日
Want to grow FRESH & ORGANIC vegetables but short of space? No problem, you can even do this near your kitchen window. Just learn about the Windowsill Vegetable Gardening and 11 best vegetables you can grow there!
So what if you don’t have a big outdoor space to grow your own food, you can also grow your own fresh and organic vegetables in a small space– on your windowsill. Improvise and act, get some window boxes, hanging baskets or make some cool DIY containers.
Also Read: Windowsill Herb Garden
It’s fun and exciting and you’ll be successful if you care about a few things: Your window must receive minimum 4-5 hours of sunlight, you should fertilize your plants correctly and the balance in watering must be maintained (avoiding both overwatering and underwatering).
Also Read: How to Water Container Plants
1. Green Onions
Fresh green onions can be a wonderful and delicious addition to your salad bowls and sandwiches. In a small space like a windowsill, you can get enough harvest. You can even grow green onions in water. See the tutorial! If you want, you can try to grow onions, too. Also, vertically in plastic bottles. Check out this post.
A Tip: If you’re growing green onions in water, replace the water every day.
2. Loose Leaf Lettuce
After green onions growing lettuce is one of the easiest things in the windowsill gardening! It doesn’t require a sunny window, a few hours of sunlight is enough, if not, you can also use artificial light. And the best part is you can make decorative arrangements, combining red or green leaf lettuces in the same pot or choosing variegated ones.
A Tip: Wide-shallow containers are sufficient and provide you small crop. Learn how to grow lettuce in a pot here.
3. Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes on a windowsill is easy if it is sunny. A great way to grow and enjoy fresh, organic, juicy tomatoes indoors. For best results, choose dwarf varieties (cherry tomatoes, are perfect). Also, some varieties that grow well on windowsill includes Early Salad, Red Cushion, Pretty Patio and Tiny Tim.
Also Read: How to Grow So Many Tomatoes in So Little Space
A Tip: Cherry tomatoes don’t require a big deep pot, you can use a small to medium sized container. If you like to grow them in hanging baskets near your windows, it is possible too. Learn how to do this here.
4. Spinach
You can have your own spinach and you don’t need a big yard for this. You can grow it on a windowsill if it receives only a few hours of sun. Here’s the helpful guide on growing spinach in containers.
A Tip: Keep the soil slightly moist and provide shallow but wide planter, a 6 inches deep pot would be sufficient.
5. Chillies
Exotic, hot, spicy, and colorful– You can grow chilies on your kitchen windowsill. But only if it is sunny and warm. Also, the pot you use should be at least 8-10 inches deep. It’s fun and you’ll love your plants once they’ll start to flower and fruit. You can make your curry recipes spicier this way.
Also Read: How to Grow Banana Peppers
A Tip: Provide as much sun as possible and keep your eyes on pests.
6. Carrots
Growing carrot on a windowsill is possible and you can expect a decent homegrown harvest in small pots or window boxes. Carrot plants need regular watering, otherwise, the roots (carrots) will dry out and crack. Growing this root vegetable in containers is easy and it doesn’t take much space too. Read this to learn how to grow carrots in containers.
A Tip: Choose smaller varieties.
7. Sprouts
The healthiest stuff you can grow– Almost anywhere in your home, also on the windowsill. It is such a rewarding experience as they grow easily and quickly. All you need is a quart jar, a few tablespoons of sprouting seeds and water. In a week, you’ll have a jar full of healthy delicate sprouts that you can sprinkle on salads, add to sandwiches or toss into soups for a delicious and healthful twist on your favorite recipes.
A Tip: Just read these two articles– here and here.
8. Garlic
No need to teach you about the GARLIC glories! Let’s come to the point– Garlic will grow happily on your windowsill. To grow it, buy some fresh garlic from a grocery store. Plant a large, unpeeled clove with the pointed side up, in well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and in a few days, you should see a green shoot. You can use its leaves in many recipes in place of garlic, will taste delicious. To harvest the leaves, cut them off with a sharp scissor, only a few inches at a time. When the leaves dry, dig up the soil to harvest the garlic bulbs.
A Tip: Choose at least 6 inches deep pot.
9. Microgreens
A big bowl of green leaves can be a prime source of vitamins A, C, K and folic acid. And microgreens (aka seedlings of herbs and vegetables) maybe even more nutrient-rich and tasty than the mature ones. Here is everything about growing microgreens.
A Tip: To grow microgreens you will need seeds of various greens and a wide but shallow tray.
10. Radishes
Radishes grow so fast and require little care and don’t mind the small pots. Plus, there leaves are also edible and you can prepare delicious exotic recipes from them. They need sunny windowsill and a moist soil.
A Tip: Ensure the pots you use have sufficient drainage holes and the potting soil must be well-drained and rich in organic matter.
11. Beans and Peas
Both the beans and peas can be grown on windowsills if there is space. Pole beans if planted in window boxes can be trained and supported by tying a string or wire from the planter to the window frame.
A Tip: Dwarf and bushier bean varieties and peas don’t require any special support, thus more suitable for windowsill gardening.
So what if you don’t have a big outdoor space to grow your own food, you can also grow your own fresh and organic vegetables in a small space– on your windowsill. Improvise and act, get some window boxes, hanging baskets or make some cool DIY containers.
Also Read: Windowsill Herb Garden
It’s fun and exciting and you’ll be successful if you care about a few things: Your window must receive minimum 4-5 hours of sunlight, you should fertilize your plants correctly and the balance in watering must be maintained (avoiding both overwatering and underwatering).
Also Read: How to Water Container Plants
1. Green Onions
Fresh green onions can be a wonderful and delicious addition to your salad bowls and sandwiches. In a small space like a windowsill, you can get enough harvest. You can even grow green onions in water. See the tutorial! If you want, you can try to grow onions, too. Also, vertically in plastic bottles. Check out this post.
A Tip: If you’re growing green onions in water, replace the water every day.
2. Loose Leaf Lettuce
After green onions growing lettuce is one of the easiest things in the windowsill gardening! It doesn’t require a sunny window, a few hours of sunlight is enough, if not, you can also use artificial light. And the best part is you can make decorative arrangements, combining red or green leaf lettuces in the same pot or choosing variegated ones.
A Tip: Wide-shallow containers are sufficient and provide you small crop. Learn how to grow lettuce in a pot here.
3. Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes on a windowsill is easy if it is sunny. A great way to grow and enjoy fresh, organic, juicy tomatoes indoors. For best results, choose dwarf varieties (cherry tomatoes, are perfect). Also, some varieties that grow well on windowsill includes Early Salad, Red Cushion, Pretty Patio and Tiny Tim.
Also Read: How to Grow So Many Tomatoes in So Little Space
A Tip: Cherry tomatoes don’t require a big deep pot, you can use a small to medium sized container. If you like to grow them in hanging baskets near your windows, it is possible too. Learn how to do this here.
4. Spinach
You can have your own spinach and you don’t need a big yard for this. You can grow it on a windowsill if it receives only a few hours of sun. Here’s the helpful guide on growing spinach in containers.
A Tip: Keep the soil slightly moist and provide shallow but wide planter, a 6 inches deep pot would be sufficient.
5. Chillies
Exotic, hot, spicy, and colorful– You can grow chilies on your kitchen windowsill. But only if it is sunny and warm. Also, the pot you use should be at least 8-10 inches deep. It’s fun and you’ll love your plants once they’ll start to flower and fruit. You can make your curry recipes spicier this way.
Also Read: How to Grow Banana Peppers
A Tip: Provide as much sun as possible and keep your eyes on pests.
6. Carrots
Growing carrot on a windowsill is possible and you can expect a decent homegrown harvest in small pots or window boxes. Carrot plants need regular watering, otherwise, the roots (carrots) will dry out and crack. Growing this root vegetable in containers is easy and it doesn’t take much space too. Read this to learn how to grow carrots in containers.
A Tip: Choose smaller varieties.
7. Sprouts
The healthiest stuff you can grow– Almost anywhere in your home, also on the windowsill. It is such a rewarding experience as they grow easily and quickly. All you need is a quart jar, a few tablespoons of sprouting seeds and water. In a week, you’ll have a jar full of healthy delicate sprouts that you can sprinkle on salads, add to sandwiches or toss into soups for a delicious and healthful twist on your favorite recipes.
A Tip: Just read these two articles– here and here.
8. Garlic
No need to teach you about the GARLIC glories! Let’s come to the point– Garlic will grow happily on your windowsill. To grow it, buy some fresh garlic from a grocery store. Plant a large, unpeeled clove with the pointed side up, in well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and in a few days, you should see a green shoot. You can use its leaves in many recipes in place of garlic, will taste delicious. To harvest the leaves, cut them off with a sharp scissor, only a few inches at a time. When the leaves dry, dig up the soil to harvest the garlic bulbs.
A Tip: Choose at least 6 inches deep pot.
9. Microgreens
A big bowl of green leaves can be a prime source of vitamins A, C, K and folic acid. And microgreens (aka seedlings of herbs and vegetables) maybe even more nutrient-rich and tasty than the mature ones. Here is everything about growing microgreens.
A Tip: To grow microgreens you will need seeds of various greens and a wide but shallow tray.
10. Radishes
Radishes grow so fast and require little care and don’t mind the small pots. Plus, there leaves are also edible and you can prepare delicious exotic recipes from them. They need sunny windowsill and a moist soil.
A Tip: Ensure the pots you use have sufficient drainage holes and the potting soil must be well-drained and rich in organic matter.
11. Beans and Peas
Both the beans and peas can be grown on windowsills if there is space. Pole beans if planted in window boxes can be trained and supported by tying a string or wire from the planter to the window frame.
A Tip: Dwarf and bushier bean varieties and peas don’t require any special support, thus more suitable for windowsill gardening.
3
1
文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow bitter melon. Growing bitter gourd is easy. This healthy vegetable grows up quickly and fruits productively. You can also grow it in pots.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
0
0
文章
Martha
2017年05月22日
In this article, learn how to grow pinto beans. The easy growing pinto beans are nutrient rich and eating them can reduce the cholesterol level and risk of heart disease.
USDA Zones— 5 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other names — Phaseolus vulgaris var. pinto (Scientific Name)Frijol pinto, Speckled bean, Poroto frutilla, Strawberry bean, Carioca bean, Mottled bean, Phaseolus vulgaris and Common beans.
Pinto beans are annual plants that grow best in areas with long hot summers as they take three to five months to mature for harvest.
How to Grow Pinto BeansVarieties
Pinto beans grow on both vine (pole) and bush. Pole bean varieties produce more yield than bush beans. But bushier varieties are relatively easy to grow.
Propagation
Sow seeds 1 inches deep in the soil when all the dangers of frost are passed. *Pinto beans require direct seed sowing as they are not easy to transplant. Also, remember that it is a subtropical plant and needs a temperature around 60 – 70 F (16 – 21 C) for germination. Space pinto bean seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. *Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting to accelerate germination.
Location
Choose the sunniest spot in the garden that is less windy. For optimum growth, growing pinto beans in full sun is important. It needs at least six hours of direct sun a day but grows better if receive more sun.
Also Read: How to Grow Cluster Beans
Requirements for Growing Pinto BeansSoil
Pinto Beans do best in well-drained soil that is loamy, avoid clay-rich, heavy or soggy soil. Soil that is waterlogging causes root rot.
Watering
Water the plant only when top one inch of surface seems dry. Avoid overwatering because it does not tolerate excessive moisture but handle a bit of drought. Also, try not to wet the foliage while watering as it may promote fungal diseases.
Weeding
Keep the location weed free by gently pulling out the weeds around the plants by hand. Better not to use a tool as pinto beans have shallow roots that can be damaged by weeding with the help of tools.
Mulching
Since pinto beans have shallow feeder roots, it is best to do mulching to stop weeds from growing. Mulching also protects the plants from the cold.
Fertilizer
For growing pinto beans you’ll require low nitrogen fertilizer, legumes produce their own nitrogen and applying too much nitrogen can also result in comparatively more vegetative growth than fruits.
It needs fertilizer application twice for better yield. Admix 5-10-10 slow release fertilizer in the first 6 inches of the planting bed after the germination. Make sure not to apply fertilizer in 2 inches radius around the seedlings as it may damage them. Make a second application of 10-20-20 fertilizer when the plant begins to flowers.
Pests and Diseases
Its main problem is root rot, which you can easily prevent by moderate watering.
Pinto beans are sometimes attacked by aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and beetles. Use organic sprays to get rid of them or handpick if the infection is small. You can also invite beneficial insects into your garden to get rid of them.
Also Read: Plants that Attract Ladybugs
Harvesting
Pinto beans are ready for harvest within 90 to 120 days after planting. Harvest pinto beans by cutting the pods using clean scissors or pruning shear when they turn brown and become brittle and dry. You can also harvest the beans early if you want to use them green.
USDA Zones— 5 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other names — Phaseolus vulgaris var. pinto (Scientific Name)Frijol pinto, Speckled bean, Poroto frutilla, Strawberry bean, Carioca bean, Mottled bean, Phaseolus vulgaris and Common beans.
Pinto beans are annual plants that grow best in areas with long hot summers as they take three to five months to mature for harvest.
How to Grow Pinto BeansVarieties
Pinto beans grow on both vine (pole) and bush. Pole bean varieties produce more yield than bush beans. But bushier varieties are relatively easy to grow.
Propagation
Sow seeds 1 inches deep in the soil when all the dangers of frost are passed. *Pinto beans require direct seed sowing as they are not easy to transplant. Also, remember that it is a subtropical plant and needs a temperature around 60 – 70 F (16 – 21 C) for germination. Space pinto bean seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. *Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting to accelerate germination.
Location
Choose the sunniest spot in the garden that is less windy. For optimum growth, growing pinto beans in full sun is important. It needs at least six hours of direct sun a day but grows better if receive more sun.
Also Read: How to Grow Cluster Beans
Requirements for Growing Pinto BeansSoil
Pinto Beans do best in well-drained soil that is loamy, avoid clay-rich, heavy or soggy soil. Soil that is waterlogging causes root rot.
Watering
Water the plant only when top one inch of surface seems dry. Avoid overwatering because it does not tolerate excessive moisture but handle a bit of drought. Also, try not to wet the foliage while watering as it may promote fungal diseases.
Weeding
Keep the location weed free by gently pulling out the weeds around the plants by hand. Better not to use a tool as pinto beans have shallow roots that can be damaged by weeding with the help of tools.
Mulching
Since pinto beans have shallow feeder roots, it is best to do mulching to stop weeds from growing. Mulching also protects the plants from the cold.
Fertilizer
For growing pinto beans you’ll require low nitrogen fertilizer, legumes produce their own nitrogen and applying too much nitrogen can also result in comparatively more vegetative growth than fruits.
It needs fertilizer application twice for better yield. Admix 5-10-10 slow release fertilizer in the first 6 inches of the planting bed after the germination. Make sure not to apply fertilizer in 2 inches radius around the seedlings as it may damage them. Make a second application of 10-20-20 fertilizer when the plant begins to flowers.
Pests and Diseases
Its main problem is root rot, which you can easily prevent by moderate watering.
Pinto beans are sometimes attacked by aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and beetles. Use organic sprays to get rid of them or handpick if the infection is small. You can also invite beneficial insects into your garden to get rid of them.
Also Read: Plants that Attract Ladybugs
Harvesting
Pinto beans are ready for harvest within 90 to 120 days after planting. Harvest pinto beans by cutting the pods using clean scissors or pruning shear when they turn brown and become brittle and dry. You can also harvest the beans early if you want to use them green.
0
0
文章
Martha
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow romanesco, growing romanesco broccoli is rewarding. It is a very decorative and ornamental cauliflower with exotic taste.
USDA Zones — 3 – 11
Propagation Method — Seeds
Difficulty — Moderate
Other Names — Brassica oleracea botrytis (latin name), Romanesco broccoli Romanesco Cauliflower, Romanesque cauliflower, Buzzy Broc
Romanesco broccoli is also called “Broccoli Apple” and “Cauliflower with Turrets”. It is a Mediterranean plant, native to Italy, especially of Rome and is an Italian cousin of broccoli and cauliflower.
It is a very decorative and ornamental cauliflower with exotic taste. You can even grow it in the flower garden and admire it.
Romanesco is rich in vitamin C and minerals. It has a mild taste than other cauliflowers and slightly sweet flavor.
Planting
Seed sowing is done in spring and summer. If growing romanesco in cooler zones, sow the seeds 4 – 6 weeks prior to planting outside. Sow the seeds 2 cm deep. While planting the seedlings outside leave 50 cm (2 feet) of space in all directions.
If growing in subtropical and tropical zones you can plant it in fall or in winter.
Companion Plants
Dill, artichokes, chard, beet, borage, chamomile, nasturtium, carrot, celery, cucumber, spinach, beans, hyssop, lettuce, mint, marigold, oregano, peas, potatoes, rosemary, sage, thyme.
Incompatible Plants
Garlic, chives, shallots, strawberries, turnip, onion, parsnip, leek, radish, rutabaga, tomatoes.
Requirements for Growing RomanescoSoil
Humus and compost rich soil that is well drained is recommended.
Sun
Growing romanesco in sunny spot for more yield.
Watering
Like most of the brassicas it enjoys frequent and regular watering.
Romanesco Care
Romanesco broccoli care is similar to other cauliflowers and cabbages.
Fertilizer
Mix compost and 10 – 10 – 10 slow release fertilizer at the time of planting. Fertilize it with high in nitrogen fertilizer one month after planting.
Mulching
Do mulching to keep the soil weed free and conserve moisture.
Pests and Diseases
Flea beetles, gall weevil, whiteflie, aphids and moths. Snails and slugs are fond of seedlings. Besides this it is infected by blight, clubroot and mildew.
Harvesting
Generally, romanesco is ready to harvest in 75 – 100 days after planting. Pick the head when they are tight and dense and use fresh as soon as possible.
Crop rotation
USDA Zones — 3 – 11
Propagation Method — Seeds
Difficulty — Moderate
Other Names — Brassica oleracea botrytis (latin name), Romanesco broccoli Romanesco Cauliflower, Romanesque cauliflower, Buzzy Broc
Romanesco broccoli is also called “Broccoli Apple” and “Cauliflower with Turrets”. It is a Mediterranean plant, native to Italy, especially of Rome and is an Italian cousin of broccoli and cauliflower.
It is a very decorative and ornamental cauliflower with exotic taste. You can even grow it in the flower garden and admire it.
Romanesco is rich in vitamin C and minerals. It has a mild taste than other cauliflowers and slightly sweet flavor.
Planting
Seed sowing is done in spring and summer. If growing romanesco in cooler zones, sow the seeds 4 – 6 weeks prior to planting outside. Sow the seeds 2 cm deep. While planting the seedlings outside leave 50 cm (2 feet) of space in all directions.
If growing in subtropical and tropical zones you can plant it in fall or in winter.
Companion Plants
Dill, artichokes, chard, beet, borage, chamomile, nasturtium, carrot, celery, cucumber, spinach, beans, hyssop, lettuce, mint, marigold, oregano, peas, potatoes, rosemary, sage, thyme.
Incompatible Plants
Garlic, chives, shallots, strawberries, turnip, onion, parsnip, leek, radish, rutabaga, tomatoes.
Requirements for Growing RomanescoSoil
Humus and compost rich soil that is well drained is recommended.
Sun
Growing romanesco in sunny spot for more yield.
Watering
Like most of the brassicas it enjoys frequent and regular watering.
Romanesco Care
Romanesco broccoli care is similar to other cauliflowers and cabbages.
Fertilizer
Mix compost and 10 – 10 – 10 slow release fertilizer at the time of planting. Fertilize it with high in nitrogen fertilizer one month after planting.
Mulching
Do mulching to keep the soil weed free and conserve moisture.
Pests and Diseases
Flea beetles, gall weevil, whiteflie, aphids and moths. Snails and slugs are fond of seedlings. Besides this it is infected by blight, clubroot and mildew.
Harvesting
Generally, romanesco is ready to harvest in 75 – 100 days after planting. Pick the head when they are tight and dense and use fresh as soon as possible.
Crop rotation
0
0
文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to spinach in pots, it is one of the vegetables that you can grow in some shade and in any kind of space. Growing spinach in containers is easy too you can even grow it indoors on a windowsill.
USDA Zones— 3 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Spinacia oleracea (Scientific Name), Persian vegetable, palak, bōsī cài, 波斯菜, leafy greens
How to Grow Spinach in Pots
Growing Spinach in Pots from Seeds
Sow seeds 1/2 inches deep directly in containers or in a seed tray. Seedlings will germinate in 5-14 days depending on the variety and growing conditions. If you have sown seeds in a seed tray wait until 2-3 true leaves appear in each plant and then transplant them into the original pots carefully.
Choosing a pot
For growing spinach in pots, choose a pot that is least 6-8 inches deep. You don’t need a very deep pot rather use a wide pot. You can either use so many small pots and grow one plant in each or select large window boxes, wooden boxes or crates.
Spacing
Provide each spinach plant a space of 3 inches, if you want to pick large leaves give more space to each plant, 5 inches. If you want to harvest leaves at very young age, then this area can be reduced to 2 inches only. Divide the planter box into squares, and see how many plants will feel comfortable in it.
Requirements for Growing Spinach in ContainersPosition
If you are growing spinach in fall (autumn), keep the plant in a sunny spot (in mild climates) due to shorter days and less intensity of the sun. For spring and summer planting keep your potted plants in a location where it receives some shade, especially in the afternoon. In subtropical or tropical climate, place the containers in a spot that receives plenty of shade.
Soil
For growing spinach in containers, use quality potting mix rich in organic matter. The texture of soil must be crumbly and loamy. Avoid soil that clogs the drainage and remains waterlogged. Well-draining soil is most important factor for the optimum growth of spinach in containers. Soil pH must be neutral.
Watering
When growing spinach in containers avoid water stagnation because it will lead to the development of rot and various fungal diseases. Also, avoid wetting the foliage. Keep the soil moist but not soggy or wet. It is necessary to take care of good drainage in the pot.
Temperature
Spinach seeds germinate in temperatures as low as 40 F (4 C) and in high temperatures too. The best soil temperature for growing spinach falls in the range of 50-80 F (10-27 C). Many spinach cultivars can tolerate temperature down to 20 F (-6) and up to 90 F (32 C) easily. Once the temperature starts to soar high you may need to provide shade to your plants.
Growing Spinach Indoors
Growing spinach indoors on a windowsill is a great idea (as it doesn’t require a lot of sunlight) if you’re short of outdoor space. For this, buy a few 6 inches deep small pots and grow spinach in them. You can also grow herbs and annual flowers there.
Also Read: How to Make a Windowsill Herb Garden
Spinach Care
Growing spinach in pots doesn’t need special care. Regular watering, fertilizing and the right soil is the key to the great harvest.
Fertilizing
For growing healthy green spinach, you have to provide nitrogen. At the time of planting, you can mix time-based fertilizer or you can add a lot of compost or well-rotted manure, this will provide nutrients slowly. Feeding the plant with fish emulsion, compost or manure tea in the middle of the growth and so on is a nice organic way to promote the plants. If you have not done added time-based fertilizer, you can also feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer at regular intervals.
Mulching
Do mulching, even if you’re growing spinach in pots. Mulching plants with organic matter will help in retaining moisture.
Pests and Diseases
You don’t need to worry much about pests as you’re growing spinach in containers, in a small space and you can easily control them. However, keeping an eye on leaf-eating insects like slugs and caterpillars and other common garden pests like aphids will help you in eliminating them in time.
A Few Tips for Growing Spinach in Tropics
It is a cool season crop but growing spinach in tropics and subtropics is extremely easy, moreover, you can grow it successively as a bi-annual crop, except in hot summer months. You’ll need to provide it shade and enough water to keep the soil temperature cool and moist.
In warm weather, vegetables like lettuce and spinach begin to bolt early and start to set seeds. One of the most important thing you need to consider when growing spinach in tropics is to grow heat tolerant varieties (there are a lot of Asian varieties that are suitable for tropical climate) that grow slowly and do not bolt quickly. These varieties easily tolerate the heat and humidity.
Harvesting
The spinach plant will be ready for harvest 37-50 days after germination depending on the growing conditions and cultivar.
Harvesting can be done when the plant has formed at least 5-6 healthy leaves and they are at least 3-4 inches long. Pick outer leaves first and leave the new inner leaves so that they continue to grow or cut the whole plant off at the base with a knife or scissor, the plant will resprout again.
When the weather becomes humid and hot (in warm climates) the plant tends to form an erect stem, on which you can see some small yellow or green flowers developing. To coincide with the flowering and the subsequent production of flowers, the foliage of the plant thickens and changes in flavor (more bitter), which is called bolting so it is convenient to harvest the plant before it starts flowering for better taste.
USDA Zones— 3 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Spinacia oleracea (Scientific Name), Persian vegetable, palak, bōsī cài, 波斯菜, leafy greens
How to Grow Spinach in Pots
Growing Spinach in Pots from Seeds
Sow seeds 1/2 inches deep directly in containers or in a seed tray. Seedlings will germinate in 5-14 days depending on the variety and growing conditions. If you have sown seeds in a seed tray wait until 2-3 true leaves appear in each plant and then transplant them into the original pots carefully.
Choosing a pot
For growing spinach in pots, choose a pot that is least 6-8 inches deep. You don’t need a very deep pot rather use a wide pot. You can either use so many small pots and grow one plant in each or select large window boxes, wooden boxes or crates.
Spacing
Provide each spinach plant a space of 3 inches, if you want to pick large leaves give more space to each plant, 5 inches. If you want to harvest leaves at very young age, then this area can be reduced to 2 inches only. Divide the planter box into squares, and see how many plants will feel comfortable in it.
Requirements for Growing Spinach in ContainersPosition
If you are growing spinach in fall (autumn), keep the plant in a sunny spot (in mild climates) due to shorter days and less intensity of the sun. For spring and summer planting keep your potted plants in a location where it receives some shade, especially in the afternoon. In subtropical or tropical climate, place the containers in a spot that receives plenty of shade.
Soil
For growing spinach in containers, use quality potting mix rich in organic matter. The texture of soil must be crumbly and loamy. Avoid soil that clogs the drainage and remains waterlogged. Well-draining soil is most important factor for the optimum growth of spinach in containers. Soil pH must be neutral.
Watering
When growing spinach in containers avoid water stagnation because it will lead to the development of rot and various fungal diseases. Also, avoid wetting the foliage. Keep the soil moist but not soggy or wet. It is necessary to take care of good drainage in the pot.
Temperature
Spinach seeds germinate in temperatures as low as 40 F (4 C) and in high temperatures too. The best soil temperature for growing spinach falls in the range of 50-80 F (10-27 C). Many spinach cultivars can tolerate temperature down to 20 F (-6) and up to 90 F (32 C) easily. Once the temperature starts to soar high you may need to provide shade to your plants.
Growing Spinach Indoors
Growing spinach indoors on a windowsill is a great idea (as it doesn’t require a lot of sunlight) if you’re short of outdoor space. For this, buy a few 6 inches deep small pots and grow spinach in them. You can also grow herbs and annual flowers there.
Also Read: How to Make a Windowsill Herb Garden
Spinach Care
Growing spinach in pots doesn’t need special care. Regular watering, fertilizing and the right soil is the key to the great harvest.
Fertilizing
For growing healthy green spinach, you have to provide nitrogen. At the time of planting, you can mix time-based fertilizer or you can add a lot of compost or well-rotted manure, this will provide nutrients slowly. Feeding the plant with fish emulsion, compost or manure tea in the middle of the growth and so on is a nice organic way to promote the plants. If you have not done added time-based fertilizer, you can also feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer at regular intervals.
Mulching
Do mulching, even if you’re growing spinach in pots. Mulching plants with organic matter will help in retaining moisture.
Pests and Diseases
You don’t need to worry much about pests as you’re growing spinach in containers, in a small space and you can easily control them. However, keeping an eye on leaf-eating insects like slugs and caterpillars and other common garden pests like aphids will help you in eliminating them in time.
A Few Tips for Growing Spinach in Tropics
It is a cool season crop but growing spinach in tropics and subtropics is extremely easy, moreover, you can grow it successively as a bi-annual crop, except in hot summer months. You’ll need to provide it shade and enough water to keep the soil temperature cool and moist.
In warm weather, vegetables like lettuce and spinach begin to bolt early and start to set seeds. One of the most important thing you need to consider when growing spinach in tropics is to grow heat tolerant varieties (there are a lot of Asian varieties that are suitable for tropical climate) that grow slowly and do not bolt quickly. These varieties easily tolerate the heat and humidity.
Harvesting
The spinach plant will be ready for harvest 37-50 days after germination depending on the growing conditions and cultivar.
Harvesting can be done when the plant has formed at least 5-6 healthy leaves and they are at least 3-4 inches long. Pick outer leaves first and leave the new inner leaves so that they continue to grow or cut the whole plant off at the base with a knife or scissor, the plant will resprout again.
When the weather becomes humid and hot (in warm climates) the plant tends to form an erect stem, on which you can see some small yellow or green flowers developing. To coincide with the flowering and the subsequent production of flowers, the foliage of the plant thickens and changes in flavor (more bitter), which is called bolting so it is convenient to harvest the plant before it starts flowering for better taste.
0
0
文章
Hande Salcan
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow prickly pear cactus in this article. Growing prickly pear cactus and its care is not difficult, if you grow it in right growing conditions.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Barbary-fig Cactus, Cactus Pear Fruit, Gracemere-Pear, Indian-fig, Indian fig, Nopal Cactus, Oponce, Opuntia, Opuntia cardona, Opuntia ficus, Opuntia ficus-indica, Opuntia fuliginosa, Opuntia hyptiacantha, Opuntia lasciacantha, Opuntia macrocentra, Opuntia megacantha, Opuntia puberula, Opuntia streptacantha, Opuntia velutina, Opuntia violacea, Tuna Cardona, Westwood-Pear.
Also known as Indian fig, prickly pear is a common succulent plant in Mediterranean and subtropical regions. It is grown as an ornamental plant and for its juicy fruits. Prickly pear cactus is undemanding and easy to grow. It grows about 1 – 2.5 m high. The flowers are very showy, colors ranging from white, yellow, to orange, depending more on the variety.How to Grow Prickly Pear CactusPropagation
Prickly pear cactus can be propagated from seeds or pads. Growing prickly pear from the pad is comparatively easy than seeds. To facilitate the rooting, it is preferable to wait until the cuts are perfectly healed (about 1 – 2 week) before planting. Tuck them an inch deep on the ground or in containers. The rooting takes place in a short time, usually in a month. Save the rooting pad from afternoon sun and water it when top one inch of soil seems dry.
Location
Growing prickly pear cactus in a sunny location allows the plant to thrive and fruit. Prickly pear cactus is a tropical or subtropical plant, so it loves the warm exposure. However, it can withstand temperatures down to 14 F (-10 C), but in areas, with harsh winters it is best to plant it in a sheltered spot, near a wall or tall tree to protect it from cold drafts and fluctuation in temperature. If you’re living in a cooler climate, growing prickly pear cactus in a container is the better option for you as it can only be grown on the ground where winter temperature remains above 14 F (- 10 C).
Requirements for Growing Prickly Pear CactusSoil
Grow it in well-drained, sandy and loamy soil, avoid clay-rich soil that is not well draining and remains moist. For growing prickly pear cactus in a container use potting mix or 1/3 part each of compost, soil, and coarse sand or perlite.
Watering
Watering should be done only when the surface looks dry. On average, during the spring and summer, water it once or twice a week and during the fall and winter once or twice a month. If you’re living in tropics more frequent watering will be required.
Repotting
If growing in a pot, the plant must be repotted once it is root bound. Whenever you identify that the plant is growing slowly, repot it. The best repotting time is spring.
Prickly Pear Cactus Care
Prickly pear cactus care involves several steps that are given below.
Fertilizer
From spring to fall, fertilize every month with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer to promote flowering and fruiting. For the young plant, fertilize with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Do not feed in winter in cooler zones when plant stops to grow.
Pruning
Pruning is done in spring or late summer by removing the pads that come into contact with each other or those that are damaged or poorly formed.
Overwintering
Prickly pear cactus care in winter is essential. If you’re growing prickly pear cactus in a pot, protect it in winter by keeping it indoors. If growing outside, do mulching to insulate the plant from temperature drop.
Fruit thinning
Fruit thinning is done to get a better harvest. It is necessary to remove extra fruits and flowers to get lower production but of improved quality. It is recommended that thinning must be done two weeks before the formation of the fruits, leaving approximately up to 10 fruits per stalk.
Pests and Diseases
Mealybugs, spider mites, and cochineal might attack it. It is also attacked by fruit flies and moths.
Too much water or cold causes rotting. As soon as you detect the softening of tissues, remove the rotten part and treat the infected part with fungicide.
Harvesting
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Barbary-fig Cactus, Cactus Pear Fruit, Gracemere-Pear, Indian-fig, Indian fig, Nopal Cactus, Oponce, Opuntia, Opuntia cardona, Opuntia ficus, Opuntia ficus-indica, Opuntia fuliginosa, Opuntia hyptiacantha, Opuntia lasciacantha, Opuntia macrocentra, Opuntia megacantha, Opuntia puberula, Opuntia streptacantha, Opuntia velutina, Opuntia violacea, Tuna Cardona, Westwood-Pear.
Also known as Indian fig, prickly pear is a common succulent plant in Mediterranean and subtropical regions. It is grown as an ornamental plant and for its juicy fruits. Prickly pear cactus is undemanding and easy to grow. It grows about 1 – 2.5 m high. The flowers are very showy, colors ranging from white, yellow, to orange, depending more on the variety.How to Grow Prickly Pear CactusPropagation
Prickly pear cactus can be propagated from seeds or pads. Growing prickly pear from the pad is comparatively easy than seeds. To facilitate the rooting, it is preferable to wait until the cuts are perfectly healed (about 1 – 2 week) before planting. Tuck them an inch deep on the ground or in containers. The rooting takes place in a short time, usually in a month. Save the rooting pad from afternoon sun and water it when top one inch of soil seems dry.
Location
Growing prickly pear cactus in a sunny location allows the plant to thrive and fruit. Prickly pear cactus is a tropical or subtropical plant, so it loves the warm exposure. However, it can withstand temperatures down to 14 F (-10 C), but in areas, with harsh winters it is best to plant it in a sheltered spot, near a wall or tall tree to protect it from cold drafts and fluctuation in temperature. If you’re living in a cooler climate, growing prickly pear cactus in a container is the better option for you as it can only be grown on the ground where winter temperature remains above 14 F (- 10 C).
Requirements for Growing Prickly Pear CactusSoil
Grow it in well-drained, sandy and loamy soil, avoid clay-rich soil that is not well draining and remains moist. For growing prickly pear cactus in a container use potting mix or 1/3 part each of compost, soil, and coarse sand or perlite.
Watering
Watering should be done only when the surface looks dry. On average, during the spring and summer, water it once or twice a week and during the fall and winter once or twice a month. If you’re living in tropics more frequent watering will be required.
Repotting
If growing in a pot, the plant must be repotted once it is root bound. Whenever you identify that the plant is growing slowly, repot it. The best repotting time is spring.
Prickly Pear Cactus Care
Prickly pear cactus care involves several steps that are given below.
Fertilizer
From spring to fall, fertilize every month with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer to promote flowering and fruiting. For the young plant, fertilize with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Do not feed in winter in cooler zones when plant stops to grow.
Pruning
Pruning is done in spring or late summer by removing the pads that come into contact with each other or those that are damaged or poorly formed.
Overwintering
Prickly pear cactus care in winter is essential. If you’re growing prickly pear cactus in a pot, protect it in winter by keeping it indoors. If growing outside, do mulching to insulate the plant from temperature drop.
Fruit thinning
Fruit thinning is done to get a better harvest. It is necessary to remove extra fruits and flowers to get lower production but of improved quality. It is recommended that thinning must be done two weeks before the formation of the fruits, leaving approximately up to 10 fruits per stalk.
Pests and Diseases
Mealybugs, spider mites, and cochineal might attack it. It is also attacked by fruit flies and moths.
Too much water or cold causes rotting. As soon as you detect the softening of tissues, remove the rotten part and treat the infected part with fungicide.
Harvesting
0
0
文章
Hande Salcan
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow calamansi in this guide. Growing calamansi is rewarding. Its exotic citrus like fragrance and mix of tangy, sweet flavor of lime and tangerine of its fruit makes it a worth fruit tree.
USDA Hardiness Zones — 9 – 11, *can be grown in containers in cooler zones
Difficulty — Moderate
Other Names — calamonding, calamondin orange, calamansi, calamandarin, golden lime, kalamunding, kalamansi, Philippine lime, Panama orange, Chinese orange, musk orange and acid orange.
Family — Rutaceae
Genus — Citrofortunella
Temperature— 60 – 90 F is optimum growing temperature
Propagation Method — Seeds, cuttings
About Calamansi
Calamansi is a tropical fruit of citrus variety, sized between orange and lime. This small fruit tree grows mostly in South East Asia. It is mostly grown for ornamental purposes in other parts of the world. Calamansi bears smaller fruits than orange which are sour, a little bit sweeter and juicy in taste.
Growing Condition
Calamansi tree grows in warm tropical and subtropical climate. The growing conditions are similar to that of other citrus trees.
Requirements for Growing CalamansiSun
Growing calamansi in full sun is required for healthy growth. Proper exposure to sun and temperature improves productivity.
Soil
Calamansi grows well in dry soil that doesn’t retain moisture and remains waterlogged.
Watering
Water deeply but only when the top layer of soil dries out, calamansi plant doesn’t like wet feet.
How to Plant Calamansi
If your climate is frost free and remains warm throughout the year, plant it outside. If you live below USDA Zone 9b, it is better to plant it in a container.
Calamnsi CareFertilizer
Fertilize your calamansi plant every other month during the growing period with liquid fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen and potassium.
Harvest
It starts to bear fruits after two-three years of growing calamansi plant and produce them throughout the year intermittently (*in tropics). You can either harvest them young when the color of peel looks variegated pale green or wait until they fully ripen and resemble orange like color.
Pests and Diseases
USDA Hardiness Zones — 9 – 11, *can be grown in containers in cooler zones
Difficulty — Moderate
Other Names — calamonding, calamondin orange, calamansi, calamandarin, golden lime, kalamunding, kalamansi, Philippine lime, Panama orange, Chinese orange, musk orange and acid orange.
Family — Rutaceae
Genus — Citrofortunella
Temperature— 60 – 90 F is optimum growing temperature
Propagation Method — Seeds, cuttings
About Calamansi
Calamansi is a tropical fruit of citrus variety, sized between orange and lime. This small fruit tree grows mostly in South East Asia. It is mostly grown for ornamental purposes in other parts of the world. Calamansi bears smaller fruits than orange which are sour, a little bit sweeter and juicy in taste.
Growing Condition
Calamansi tree grows in warm tropical and subtropical climate. The growing conditions are similar to that of other citrus trees.
Requirements for Growing CalamansiSun
Growing calamansi in full sun is required for healthy growth. Proper exposure to sun and temperature improves productivity.
Soil
Calamansi grows well in dry soil that doesn’t retain moisture and remains waterlogged.
Watering
Water deeply but only when the top layer of soil dries out, calamansi plant doesn’t like wet feet.
How to Plant Calamansi
If your climate is frost free and remains warm throughout the year, plant it outside. If you live below USDA Zone 9b, it is better to plant it in a container.
Calamnsi CareFertilizer
Fertilize your calamansi plant every other month during the growing period with liquid fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen and potassium.
Harvest
It starts to bear fruits after two-three years of growing calamansi plant and produce them throughout the year intermittently (*in tropics). You can either harvest them young when the color of peel looks variegated pale green or wait until they fully ripen and resemble orange like color.
Pests and Diseases
1
0
文章
Rainbow
2017年05月22日
#国庆菊 ，意指国庆节期间开放的菊花。按开花的季节分，它属于秋菊。(另一种菊花开在11月上旬，为冬菊)。菊花是中国传统名花。它隽美多姿，然不以娇艳姿色取媚，却以素雅坚贞取胜，盛开在百花凋零之后。人们爱它的清秀神韵，更爱它凌霜盛开，西风不落的一身傲骨。中国赋予它高尚坚强的情操，以民族精神的象征视为国萃受人爱重，菊作为傲霜之花，一直为诗人所偏爱，古人尤爱以菊名志，以此比拟自己的高洁情操，坚贞不屈。古神话传说中菊花又被赋予了吉祥、长寿的含义。国庆到来，国庆菊象征着国家祥和欢乐，繁荣昌盛。
载培要点：
一、上盆待扦插，苗有3至4条根时即可上盆。上盆时根要舒展，盆土要压实。浇透水，遮阴，以后早晚各喷一次水。成活后逐渐移到有阳光处，盆要放在平整且排水良好的地方，盆距保持在5厘米以上。生长过程中一般不要移动花盆，尽可能让根扎于土中.以吸收分。
二、苗木浇水，国庆菊喜凉爽，忌炎热，怕积水雨涝，要坚持不干不浇的原则。盛夏中午切忌浇水，宜在早晨9点以前或下午6点以后浇晾晒过的水。
三、施肥上盆后，掌握每打一次头施一次淡饼肥水。7至8月天气较热.国庆菊生长缓慢，可少施或不施肥，以免伤及根系而腐烂。立秋后半个月，国庆菊开始孕蕾，此时，要加大肥水管理，每周施一次，浓度逐渐增大。待花蕾透色后，每周喷一次0.2%至0.3%的磷酸二氢钾溶液；开花时，应停止施肥。
四，摘心上盆2周后，苗木进行第一次摘心，使苗高与盆沿相平或稍高。以后每出4至5片叶，保留2至3片，摘去顶芽。最后一次摘心要根据品种而定；一般黄色系列在8月上旬，红色系列在7月20日以前。
五、花木病虫害防治在国庆菊整个栽培过程中。须注意病虫害防治，如叶斑病，黑斑病，螟虫等，应结合病情进行药物防治。
载培要点：
一、上盆待扦插，苗有3至4条根时即可上盆。上盆时根要舒展，盆土要压实。浇透水，遮阴，以后早晚各喷一次水。成活后逐渐移到有阳光处，盆要放在平整且排水良好的地方，盆距保持在5厘米以上。生长过程中一般不要移动花盆，尽可能让根扎于土中.以吸收分。
二、苗木浇水，国庆菊喜凉爽，忌炎热，怕积水雨涝，要坚持不干不浇的原则。盛夏中午切忌浇水，宜在早晨9点以前或下午6点以后浇晾晒过的水。
三、施肥上盆后，掌握每打一次头施一次淡饼肥水。7至8月天气较热.国庆菊生长缓慢，可少施或不施肥，以免伤及根系而腐烂。立秋后半个月，国庆菊开始孕蕾，此时，要加大肥水管理，每周施一次，浓度逐渐增大。待花蕾透色后，每周喷一次0.2%至0.3%的磷酸二氢钾溶液；开花时，应停止施肥。
四，摘心上盆2周后，苗木进行第一次摘心，使苗高与盆沿相平或稍高。以后每出4至5片叶，保留2至3片，摘去顶芽。最后一次摘心要根据品种而定；一般黄色系列在8月上旬，红色系列在7月20日以前。
五、花木病虫害防治在国庆菊整个栽培过程中。须注意病虫害防治，如叶斑病，黑斑病，螟虫等，应结合病情进行药物防治。
0
0
文章
Juze
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow dragon fruit, it’s one of the most strange looking subtropical fruit you’d like to grow in your garden. Growing dragon fruit is fairly easy both outdoors or in the pot.
USDA Zones— 9 to 11
Propagation Method — Seeds, vegetative propagation
Difficulty — Moderate
Soil pH — 6 to 7
Other names — Indonesia buah naga, Khmer sror kaa neak, Thai kaeo mangkon, nanettika fruit, Kaktus madu, Long guo, Cereus triangularis, Thanh long, Strawberry Pear, Cactus fruit, Night blooming Cereus, Belle of the Night, Jesus in the Cradle.
Dragon fruit, also known as pitahaya or pitaya, belongs to the cactus family. Its flowers are unique and one among the largest in the world. It has a diameter of 25 cm and is about 30 cm long. One more feature of its bloom is: it only opens for one night and exudes inviting fruity fragrance.
Growing Regions
Dragon fruit is native to Central America and grown throughout the subtropical and tropical part of China, Israel, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand and
Nicaragua.
How to Plant and Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit plant is actually a climbing cactus and needs support to climb on, usually as the plant becomes mature it forms aerial roots from the branches and find something to climb. So, it’s best if you’re growing dragonfruit, find something to support your plant.
Dragon fruit is a sub tropical plant, it loves heat and sun but it’s better to plant it in a spot that remains dry and receives only partial sun.
If you’re living in more temperate climate or if you’re an urban gardener and don’t have much space, grow dragon fruit in pot, it’s fairly easy to grow and adapts itself well in containers. In pot you can move and overwinter it to save from frost as pitaya plant can survive only short period of freezing temperature (below 28 F is detrimental) and frost.
PropagationGrowing Dragon Fruit from Seed
With a knife, divide dragon fruit in half and scoop out the black seeds from the pulp. Wash the pulp off the seeds. Put these seeds on a moist paper towel and leave them overnight.
Fill the germinating tray or small pot with well draining but poor starting mix. You can make it yourself by mixing one part peat and one part perlite. Sprinkle the seed on soil surface and cover that with a thin layer of growing medium that barely covers the seeds.
Thoroughly moisten the soil using sprayer and cover the pot with plastic wrap. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate, which will take around 15 to 30 days.
After the seeds germinate, uncover the plastic and transplant them to bigger pots when necessary.
Growing Dragon Fruit from Cuttings
To learn how to propagate dragon fruit from cuttings, read this.
Soil
For growing dragonfruit, well draining soil that is sandy is better. A mixture of sand in garden soil would be appropriate. It is forgiving to poor soil.
Water
Since the dragon fruit is a cactus, water it moderately with care like you do with other succulents. Water only when soil dries out completely.
Fertilizer for Growing Dragonfruit
Fertilize dragon fruit with balanced fertilizer every month when the plant is active in its growing season. Stop fertilizing in winter if growing in colder climate. Application of aged manure or compost can also be done time to time.
Dragon Fruit Pollination
Many dragon fruit varieties are self pollinating but there are some that requires cross pollination. If your dragon fruit is unable to do self pollination, you’ll need to grow two or more dragon fruit plants closely for cross pollination. As dragon fruit flowers are nocturnal, its pollination depends on moths and bats. For assurance, you can also do self pollination at night.
Harvest
Harvest dragon fruit when its skin color changes from bright green to red or pink. Its fruit is oval to ovate in shape and 10 to 15 cm long and forms 30 to 50 days after flowering.
Pericarp of dragon fruit is rough and scaly and is usually pink in color. However, there are also red, or yellow dragon fruits depending on the variety. The flesh is located in the interior is white and contains black seeds.
Pests and Diseases
USDA Zones— 9 to 11
Propagation Method — Seeds, vegetative propagation
Difficulty — Moderate
Soil pH — 6 to 7
Other names — Indonesia buah naga, Khmer sror kaa neak, Thai kaeo mangkon, nanettika fruit, Kaktus madu, Long guo, Cereus triangularis, Thanh long, Strawberry Pear, Cactus fruit, Night blooming Cereus, Belle of the Night, Jesus in the Cradle.
Dragon fruit, also known as pitahaya or pitaya, belongs to the cactus family. Its flowers are unique and one among the largest in the world. It has a diameter of 25 cm and is about 30 cm long. One more feature of its bloom is: it only opens for one night and exudes inviting fruity fragrance.
Growing Regions
Dragon fruit is native to Central America and grown throughout the subtropical and tropical part of China, Israel, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand and
Nicaragua.
How to Plant and Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit plant is actually a climbing cactus and needs support to climb on, usually as the plant becomes mature it forms aerial roots from the branches and find something to climb. So, it’s best if you’re growing dragonfruit, find something to support your plant.
Dragon fruit is a sub tropical plant, it loves heat and sun but it’s better to plant it in a spot that remains dry and receives only partial sun.
If you’re living in more temperate climate or if you’re an urban gardener and don’t have much space, grow dragon fruit in pot, it’s fairly easy to grow and adapts itself well in containers. In pot you can move and overwinter it to save from frost as pitaya plant can survive only short period of freezing temperature (below 28 F is detrimental) and frost.
PropagationGrowing Dragon Fruit from Seed
With a knife, divide dragon fruit in half and scoop out the black seeds from the pulp. Wash the pulp off the seeds. Put these seeds on a moist paper towel and leave them overnight.
Fill the germinating tray or small pot with well draining but poor starting mix. You can make it yourself by mixing one part peat and one part perlite. Sprinkle the seed on soil surface and cover that with a thin layer of growing medium that barely covers the seeds.
Thoroughly moisten the soil using sprayer and cover the pot with plastic wrap. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate, which will take around 15 to 30 days.
After the seeds germinate, uncover the plastic and transplant them to bigger pots when necessary.
Growing Dragon Fruit from Cuttings
To learn how to propagate dragon fruit from cuttings, read this.
Soil
For growing dragonfruit, well draining soil that is sandy is better. A mixture of sand in garden soil would be appropriate. It is forgiving to poor soil.
Water
Since the dragon fruit is a cactus, water it moderately with care like you do with other succulents. Water only when soil dries out completely.
Fertilizer for Growing Dragonfruit
Fertilize dragon fruit with balanced fertilizer every month when the plant is active in its growing season. Stop fertilizing in winter if growing in colder climate. Application of aged manure or compost can also be done time to time.
Dragon Fruit Pollination
Many dragon fruit varieties are self pollinating but there are some that requires cross pollination. If your dragon fruit is unable to do self pollination, you’ll need to grow two or more dragon fruit plants closely for cross pollination. As dragon fruit flowers are nocturnal, its pollination depends on moths and bats. For assurance, you can also do self pollination at night.
Harvest
Harvest dragon fruit when its skin color changes from bright green to red or pink. Its fruit is oval to ovate in shape and 10 to 15 cm long and forms 30 to 50 days after flowering.
Pericarp of dragon fruit is rough and scaly and is usually pink in color. However, there are also red, or yellow dragon fruits depending on the variety. The flesh is located in the interior is white and contains black seeds.
Pests and Diseases
0
0
文章
Abigal
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow star anise in this article. Star anise is a spice widely used in South East Asian cuisines, growing star anise is easy in subtropical climates. It is adorned with beautiful flowers and fruits that are star shaped.
USDA Zones— 8 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— Anis de Chine, Anís Estrellado, Anis Étoilé, Anis Étoilé Chinois, Aniseed Stars, Anisi Stellati Fructus, Ba Jiao Hui, Badiana, Badiane, Badiane de Chine, Bajiao, Chinese Anise, Chinese Star Anise, Eight-Horned Anise, Eight Horns and Illicium verum.
It belongs to the family of Illiciaceae, dicotyledonous angiosperm species. It is a tropical evergreen tree, tall between 5-10 m. Star anise has large glossy green foliage, its white flowers are beautiful and of great decorative value. Star anise fruit has eight carpels that together form the star-shaped fruit (hence called “Star anise”).
Propagation
Star anise is propagated by seeds or cuttings. How to grow star anise from seed: Seeds are propagated best when temperature range around 65 – 70 F (18 – 20 C). You can sow seeds in pots and or directly outside.
Water the seeds frequently to keep the soil moist and make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to drain excess water.
Growing Condition
Star anise is native to Vietnam and China and grows in warm subtropical climate. It is a frost tender perennial. Star anise only grows in areas where the temperature does not fall below 15 F (-10 C) . If you live in a cooler area below USDA Zone 9, plant star anise in a container so that you can keep it in a greenhouse or indoors in winter.
Requirements for Growing Star AnisePosition
Star anise requires dappled shade, partial sun but if you’re growing star anise in a much cooler climate, plant it in a warm and sunny location. Choose location in a way that it is not exposed to cold and dry winds.
Soil
Provide soil that is humus and compost rich. Soil texture should be loamy and well drained. Slightly acidic to neutral soil is optimal.
Watering
For growing star anise, do regular watering and keep the soil slightly moist but reduce the watering in winter.
Star Anise CareFertilizer
Spread a 3-inch layer of compost or aged manure on the ground surrounding the tree in the spring. This is the only fertilizer it requires.
If soil is poor, apply slow release fertilizer all purpose fertilizer in the spring.
Pruning
When the plant is young pinch and prune it if you want to make it bushier. There are no special pruning requirements, however, you can always prune off dead, diseased and weak branches.
Harvest
Star anise tree takes at least 6 years to fruit if grown from seeds. These fruits (wrongly called seeds) are picked unripe while they are still green, later on these fruits are sun dried until their color change to reddish-brown, seeds can be removed once the fruits are ready to be stored.
Pests and Diseases
There are not any specific pest or disease that bothers it. Star anise itself has anti bacterial and pest repellent properties.
Uses
Star Anise is widely used in Asian cuisines to flavor dishes especially meat and curries, it is also used in desserts and beverages. Together with fennel seeds, cloves, cinnamon and pepper it is considered as one of the “Five Chinese Spice”, used for its strong taste and spicy flavor. It is an essential part of Chinese cuisines and also used in variety of Indian recipes. It’s addition to other popular Indian spices makes a special spicy ingredient, which is called “Garam masala”.
Warnings
While growing star anise, don’t confuse it with Japanese star anise (Illicium anisatum) or “Shikimi“, which is a poisonous plant and native to Japan. Its seeds or fruits are somewhat similar to those of star anise and are only slightly smaller and looks like cardamom, having a more rounded shape and have a small hook.
USDA Zones— 8 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— Anis de Chine, Anís Estrellado, Anis Étoilé, Anis Étoilé Chinois, Aniseed Stars, Anisi Stellati Fructus, Ba Jiao Hui, Badiana, Badiane, Badiane de Chine, Bajiao, Chinese Anise, Chinese Star Anise, Eight-Horned Anise, Eight Horns and Illicium verum.
It belongs to the family of Illiciaceae, dicotyledonous angiosperm species. It is a tropical evergreen tree, tall between 5-10 m. Star anise has large glossy green foliage, its white flowers are beautiful and of great decorative value. Star anise fruit has eight carpels that together form the star-shaped fruit (hence called “Star anise”).
Propagation
Star anise is propagated by seeds or cuttings. How to grow star anise from seed: Seeds are propagated best when temperature range around 65 – 70 F (18 – 20 C). You can sow seeds in pots and or directly outside.
Water the seeds frequently to keep the soil moist and make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to drain excess water.
Growing Condition
Star anise is native to Vietnam and China and grows in warm subtropical climate. It is a frost tender perennial. Star anise only grows in areas where the temperature does not fall below 15 F (-10 C) . If you live in a cooler area below USDA Zone 9, plant star anise in a container so that you can keep it in a greenhouse or indoors in winter.
Requirements for Growing Star AnisePosition
Star anise requires dappled shade, partial sun but if you’re growing star anise in a much cooler climate, plant it in a warm and sunny location. Choose location in a way that it is not exposed to cold and dry winds.
Soil
Provide soil that is humus and compost rich. Soil texture should be loamy and well drained. Slightly acidic to neutral soil is optimal.
Watering
For growing star anise, do regular watering and keep the soil slightly moist but reduce the watering in winter.
Star Anise CareFertilizer
Spread a 3-inch layer of compost or aged manure on the ground surrounding the tree in the spring. This is the only fertilizer it requires.
If soil is poor, apply slow release fertilizer all purpose fertilizer in the spring.
Pruning
When the plant is young pinch and prune it if you want to make it bushier. There are no special pruning requirements, however, you can always prune off dead, diseased and weak branches.
Harvest
Star anise tree takes at least 6 years to fruit if grown from seeds. These fruits (wrongly called seeds) are picked unripe while they are still green, later on these fruits are sun dried until their color change to reddish-brown, seeds can be removed once the fruits are ready to be stored.
Pests and Diseases
There are not any specific pest or disease that bothers it. Star anise itself has anti bacterial and pest repellent properties.
Uses
Star Anise is widely used in Asian cuisines to flavor dishes especially meat and curries, it is also used in desserts and beverages. Together with fennel seeds, cloves, cinnamon and pepper it is considered as one of the “Five Chinese Spice”, used for its strong taste and spicy flavor. It is an essential part of Chinese cuisines and also used in variety of Indian recipes. It’s addition to other popular Indian spices makes a special spicy ingredient, which is called “Garam masala”.
Warnings
While growing star anise, don’t confuse it with Japanese star anise (Illicium anisatum) or “Shikimi“, which is a poisonous plant and native to Japan. Its seeds or fruits are somewhat similar to those of star anise and are only slightly smaller and looks like cardamom, having a more rounded shape and have a small hook.
2
0
文章
stone
2017年05月21日
“石蒜”是花的学名，民间最常用的名称是蟑螂花，别名老鸦蒜、蒜头草、蟑螂花。多年生草本。可以露地栽培、盆栽、框式栽培或水培。
#石蒜 栽培时间上海地区适宜的栽培时间是5～11月份，可以同花期控制相结合，切忌在长叶以后的冬季或早春移栽。寒冷地区应在春天栽种。多数品种喜温暖的气候，最高气温不超过30℃，旬平均气温24℃，适宜石蒜生长。冬季日平均气温8℃以上，最低气温1℃，不影响石蒜生长。
养殖环境种植深度不宜太深，以鳞茎顶刚埋入土面为好。要求排水良好的偏酸性沙质土或疏松的培养土，栽植时施适量的基肥，栽培后灌透水。营养生长期要经常灌水，保持土壤湿润，但不能积水，以防鳞茎腐烂。开花前20天至开花期必须要供给适量水分，以达到开花整齐一致，且延长花期。
盆栽石蒜一般选用田间生长3年、能开花的大球，直径在7cm以上，可一盆栽一球，也可一大盆栽3～4个球。要浅植，使球的1/3～1/2居于土面上。上盆后浇水1次，使土略微湿润即可，待发出新叶后再浇水。每半月施液肥1次。在秋季叶片增厚老熟时，可停止浇水。
待2～3月萌芽后，再翻盆或更换盆土。培养土可用泥炭2份、园土2份、珍珠岩1份混合配制而成，同时加入少量的基肥。夏季休眠期要少浇水，而春秋季需经常保持盆土湿润。生长季节每半月追施1次稀薄饼肥水。石蒜喜半阴，夏季避免阳光直射，春秋季置半阴处养护，越冬期间严格控制浇水，停止施肥。
#石蒜 栽培时间上海地区适宜的栽培时间是5～11月份，可以同花期控制相结合，切忌在长叶以后的冬季或早春移栽。寒冷地区应在春天栽种。多数品种喜温暖的气候，最高气温不超过30℃，旬平均气温24℃，适宜石蒜生长。冬季日平均气温8℃以上，最低气温1℃，不影响石蒜生长。
养殖环境种植深度不宜太深，以鳞茎顶刚埋入土面为好。要求排水良好的偏酸性沙质土或疏松的培养土，栽植时施适量的基肥，栽培后灌透水。营养生长期要经常灌水，保持土壤湿润，但不能积水，以防鳞茎腐烂。开花前20天至开花期必须要供给适量水分，以达到开花整齐一致，且延长花期。
盆栽石蒜一般选用田间生长3年、能开花的大球，直径在7cm以上，可一盆栽一球，也可一大盆栽3～4个球。要浅植，使球的1/3～1/2居于土面上。上盆后浇水1次，使土略微湿润即可，待发出新叶后再浇水。每半月施液肥1次。在秋季叶片增厚老熟时，可停止浇水。
待2～3月萌芽后，再翻盆或更换盆土。培养土可用泥炭2份、园土2份、珍珠岩1份混合配制而成，同时加入少量的基肥。夏季休眠期要少浇水，而春秋季需经常保持盆土湿润。生长季节每半月追施1次稀薄饼肥水。石蒜喜半阴，夏季避免阳光直射，春秋季置半阴处养护，越冬期间严格控制浇水，停止施肥。
0
4
文章
绮丽
2017年05月21日
#一串红 的花期
一串红开花红红火火，是比较常见的节日用花，观赏期很长，通常开花可以从夏季开到秋季。自然情况下，一串红的花期是在5月份——11月份，但是如果在养殖期间合理的控制，可以是一串红四季有花。
在控制一串红的花期的时候，最常采用的方式就是摘心和短日照处理，以及控制播种的时间。
摘心可以贯穿一串红的生长，一般在一串红株高20cm的时候就可以进行摘心，可以促发其分枝，在分枝生长一段时间在进行第二次摘心，可以促使植株矮壮，枝繁叶茂，如果在8月份的下旬摘心一次，可以在国庆的时候开花。
短日照控制可以促使一串红的花芽分化，在春季的时候早日进行播种，日照时间短，对生长比较有利，但是如果种植的时间比较晚，就需要进行短日照处理，具体就是在早晨傍晚进行遮光，每天日照8小时左右可以更快的开花。
而控制一串红的播种日期，可以控制开花的时间，如果在8月份的下旬进行播种，11月份的时候上盆，光照和温度合适的话可以在五一的时候开花。在春季进行播种，并进行多次的摘心，可以使其在国庆节的时候开花。
此外，还可以使一串红四季开放，一串红如果将花序全部摘掉，那么在25天以后续花就可以盛开。要注意加强水肥管理，并给与充足的光照和温度较好。
如果能叶面喷布0.2%的磷酸二氢钾，则花色更艳。
一串红的花语
一串红的花语是恋爱的心，此外还有一串白，它的花语是精力充沛，一串紫，它的花语是智慧。
0
1
