文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Cumin is native to the eastern Mediterranean through to East India. Cumin (Cuminum cyminum) is an annual flowering plant from the family Apiaceae, or parsley family, whose seeds are used in the cuisines of Mexico, Asia, the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Beyond its culinary uses, what else is cumin used for and how do you grow cumin?
Cumin Herb Information
Cumin seeds are usually yellowish-brown in color, oblong in shape, resembling a caraway seed. They have been used since ancient Egyptian times. Cumin is referred to in the Bible and the ancient Greeks used the spice as a table-side condiment just as we use a salt shaker. Spanish and Portuguese colonists brought it to the New World. During medieval times, cumin purportedly kept chickens and lovers from wandering off. Brides of that time also carried cumin seeds during their wedding ceremonies as a symbol of their faithfulness. Several different varieties of cumin exist with the most common being black and green cumin used in Persian cuisine. Cumin growing occurs not only for culinary purposes, but it is also cultivated for use in bird seed. As a result, cumin plants pop up in areas of the world not known for the plant.
What is Cumin Used For?
Ground cumin is an essential spice in curry powder and is found in Indian, Vietnamese and Thai foods. Many Latino recipes call for the use of cumin; and in the United States, many a chili recipe includes cumin. In India, cumin is a traditional ingredient in not only curry, but kormas, masalas, soups and other recipes. Cumin can even be found in some cheeses, like Leyden cheese, as well as some French breads. Curry powder isn’t the only blend in which cumin is found: achiote, chili powder, adobos, sofrito, garam masala and bahaarat all owe their distinct ethnic flavors partially to cumin. Cumin seed can be used whole or ground and even lends itself to some pastries and pickles. A mix of cumin, garlic, salt, and chili powder on grilled corn on the cob is delicious. In some regions of the world, cumin is thought to aid in digestion. Ayuryedic medicinal practices incorporate the use of dried cumin seeds. Often processed with ghee (clarified butter), cumin may be applied externally or ingested to aid in appetite, digestion, vision, strength , fever, diarrhea, vomiting, edema and even for breast feeding mothers to facilitate lactation.
How Do You Grow Cumin?
So how does one go about cumin growing, and what about cumin plant care? Cumin plant care requires a long, hot summer of about three to four months with a temp of around 85 degrees F. (29 C.) during the day. Cumin is sown in the spring from seed in rows 2 feet apart in fertile, well draining soil or, in cooler climates, start seed indoors four weeks prior to the last spring frost. Sow shallowly, about ¼-inch below the soil surface. Keep the seeds moist during germination. Transplant outdoors when temperatures routinely exceed 60 degrees F. (16 C.) or higher. Cumin seed is harvested by hand after the bloom of the small white or pink flowers. Seeds are harvested when they brown — about 120 days – and are then dried and ground. The strong aroma and distinct flavor of cumin is due to its essential oils. Like all herbs, it is at its height in the morning and should be harvested at that time.
Cumin Herb Information
Cumin seeds are usually yellowish-brown in color, oblong in shape, resembling a caraway seed. They have been used since ancient Egyptian times. Cumin is referred to in the Bible and the ancient Greeks used the spice as a table-side condiment just as we use a salt shaker. Spanish and Portuguese colonists brought it to the New World. During medieval times, cumin purportedly kept chickens and lovers from wandering off. Brides of that time also carried cumin seeds during their wedding ceremonies as a symbol of their faithfulness. Several different varieties of cumin exist with the most common being black and green cumin used in Persian cuisine. Cumin growing occurs not only for culinary purposes, but it is also cultivated for use in bird seed. As a result, cumin plants pop up in areas of the world not known for the plant.
What is Cumin Used For?
Ground cumin is an essential spice in curry powder and is found in Indian, Vietnamese and Thai foods. Many Latino recipes call for the use of cumin; and in the United States, many a chili recipe includes cumin. In India, cumin is a traditional ingredient in not only curry, but kormas, masalas, soups and other recipes. Cumin can even be found in some cheeses, like Leyden cheese, as well as some French breads. Curry powder isn’t the only blend in which cumin is found: achiote, chili powder, adobos, sofrito, garam masala and bahaarat all owe their distinct ethnic flavors partially to cumin. Cumin seed can be used whole or ground and even lends itself to some pastries and pickles. A mix of cumin, garlic, salt, and chili powder on grilled corn on the cob is delicious. In some regions of the world, cumin is thought to aid in digestion. Ayuryedic medicinal practices incorporate the use of dried cumin seeds. Often processed with ghee (clarified butter), cumin may be applied externally or ingested to aid in appetite, digestion, vision, strength , fever, diarrhea, vomiting, edema and even for breast feeding mothers to facilitate lactation.
How Do You Grow Cumin?
So how does one go about cumin growing, and what about cumin plant care? Cumin plant care requires a long, hot summer of about three to four months with a temp of around 85 degrees F. (29 C.) during the day. Cumin is sown in the spring from seed in rows 2 feet apart in fertile, well draining soil or, in cooler climates, start seed indoors four weeks prior to the last spring frost. Sow shallowly, about ¼-inch below the soil surface. Keep the seeds moist during germination. Transplant outdoors when temperatures routinely exceed 60 degrees F. (16 C.) or higher. Cumin seed is harvested by hand after the bloom of the small white or pink flowers. Seeds are harvested when they brown — about 120 days – and are then dried and ground. The strong aroma and distinct flavor of cumin is due to its essential oils. Like all herbs, it is at its height in the morning and should be harvested at that time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Arguably one of the most popular herbs, basil is a tender annual herb native to the southern regions of Europe and Asia. Just as with most herbs, basil thrives in sunny locations that receive at least six to eight hours of light per day. Since this is critical when growing basil, you may wonder, “Does basil like cold weather?” Read on to learn more.
Does Basil Like Cold Weather?
Basil is an easy and popular herb to grow, especially common or sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). This member of the mint family is grown for its sweetly scented leaves used either fresh or dried that compliment a variety of foods. A member of the mint or Lamiaceae family, basil is usually grown as a tender annual. Generally, its growth cycle doesn’t include overwintering; rather it dies down and the hard seeds wait in the ground over winter and then germinate during the spring thaw. When temperatures dip, basil suffers cold damage almost immediately in the form of blackened leaves. Therefore, basil and cold weather do not gibe. If, however, you are the lucky owner of a greenhouse or live in a region where temps may dip but long hours of sun prevail, it is possible to try and over winter your basil baby indoors.
Basil Cold Hardiness
The cold tolerance of basil begins to suffer when the mercury drops into the 40’s but really affects the plant at 32 degrees F. (0 C.). The herb may not die, but basil cold damage will be in evidence. Keep in mind the cold tolerance of basil and wait until overnight lows are above 50 degrees F. (10 C.) before setting out transplants. If you set them out prior to temps in the 50’s, you’ll either have to dig them back up or cover them to protect this tender herb from cold snaps. It is also advisable to mulch 2-3 inches of grass clippings, straw, compost or ground up leaves around the basil plants. This will aid in retaining moisture and retarding weeds, but also protect the plant a bit in the event of a sudden, short cold snap. You can also cover the tops of the plants, down to the soil to help trap heat. If the cold snap really drops the mercury, a string of Christmas lights beneath the covered basil plants will help retain some heat under their covering. There may be some minor basil cold damage, but the plants will likely survive.
Basil and Cold Weather
Once the mercury falls into the 50’s and it seems that it is likely to continue to dip, make a plan for the basil plants. You may just choose to harvest as many leaves as possible and dry or freeze them. Or, if there is plenty of sunshine during daylight hours and temps are over 50 degrees F. (10 C.) but dip down at night, leave the basil outside during the day and then move it indoors at night. This is a temporary situation and will prolong the life of the plant, but it will eventually expire as temperatures continue to drop. Lastly, you may want to try to get the basil to survive the winter so you will have fresh leaves year round. In this case, you will need to pot the basil and bring it inside. Remember, basil requires lots of light — six to eight hours of direct sun or ten to 12 hours under artificial light. Also, basil is still an annual and as such, it will eventually flower and die, even when brought indoors. That is its life cycle. Additionally, if you do not have the light or space to try and over winter the herb, you can take tip cuttings from the basil and root them in small containers kept on the windowsill. You’ll have to keep an eye on the cuttings, as they tend to grow towards the light and may come in contact with a frosty window, which will result in blackened leaves.
Does Basil Like Cold Weather?
Basil is an easy and popular herb to grow, especially common or sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). This member of the mint family is grown for its sweetly scented leaves used either fresh or dried that compliment a variety of foods. A member of the mint or Lamiaceae family, basil is usually grown as a tender annual. Generally, its growth cycle doesn’t include overwintering; rather it dies down and the hard seeds wait in the ground over winter and then germinate during the spring thaw. When temperatures dip, basil suffers cold damage almost immediately in the form of blackened leaves. Therefore, basil and cold weather do not gibe. If, however, you are the lucky owner of a greenhouse or live in a region where temps may dip but long hours of sun prevail, it is possible to try and over winter your basil baby indoors.
Basil Cold Hardiness
The cold tolerance of basil begins to suffer when the mercury drops into the 40’s but really affects the plant at 32 degrees F. (0 C.). The herb may not die, but basil cold damage will be in evidence. Keep in mind the cold tolerance of basil and wait until overnight lows are above 50 degrees F. (10 C.) before setting out transplants. If you set them out prior to temps in the 50’s, you’ll either have to dig them back up or cover them to protect this tender herb from cold snaps. It is also advisable to mulch 2-3 inches of grass clippings, straw, compost or ground up leaves around the basil plants. This will aid in retaining moisture and retarding weeds, but also protect the plant a bit in the event of a sudden, short cold snap. You can also cover the tops of the plants, down to the soil to help trap heat. If the cold snap really drops the mercury, a string of Christmas lights beneath the covered basil plants will help retain some heat under their covering. There may be some minor basil cold damage, but the plants will likely survive.
Basil and Cold Weather
Once the mercury falls into the 50’s and it seems that it is likely to continue to dip, make a plan for the basil plants. You may just choose to harvest as many leaves as possible and dry or freeze them. Or, if there is plenty of sunshine during daylight hours and temps are over 50 degrees F. (10 C.) but dip down at night, leave the basil outside during the day and then move it indoors at night. This is a temporary situation and will prolong the life of the plant, but it will eventually expire as temperatures continue to drop. Lastly, you may want to try to get the basil to survive the winter so you will have fresh leaves year round. In this case, you will need to pot the basil and bring it inside. Remember, basil requires lots of light — six to eight hours of direct sun or ten to 12 hours under artificial light. Also, basil is still an annual and as such, it will eventually flower and die, even when brought indoors. That is its life cycle. Additionally, if you do not have the light or space to try and over winter the herb, you can take tip cuttings from the basil and root them in small containers kept on the windowsill. You’ll have to keep an eye on the cuttings, as they tend to grow towards the light and may come in contact with a frosty window, which will result in blackened leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a wonderfully versatile annual herb that is native to southern Asia and the islands of the South Pacific. As with other herbs, basil is easy to grow and with ideal conditions quite prolific. Even so, basil plants can have a number of issues; among these are basil plants with woody stems. If you have basil stems turning into wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Nepenthes, often called pitcher plants, are native to tropical regions in South East Asia, India, Madagascar and Australia. They get their common name from the swellings in the mid-veins of the leaves that look like small pitchers. Nepenthes pitcher plants are often grown as houseplants in cooler climates. If you own one, you may see your pitcher plant leaves turning red. There are various possible reasons for a pitcher plant with red leaves; some require fixing, some do not.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
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Misspgy：Such an AMAZING plant plus all your pictures are so Q
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This member of the Rose family (Rosaceae) has been cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region, but it is actually a native of North Africa and western Asia. The pretty bright pink buds of the flowers, which fade to white after they open, appear before the leaves and can often be seen from January onwards in the southern Iberian Peninsula.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Ground orchids flower year round and with the right conditions, they grow for years. They are native to south eastern Asia and the Philippines and they do well in pots as well as flower beds. They are plants that communicate their needs with several visual indicators, so as long as you know what the signs are, taking care of your ground orchid is simple.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Native to tropical Asia, the bamboo orchid (Arundina graminifolia or Arundina barbusifolia) grows to 8 feet with reedy stems and evergreen, grass-like leaves up to 1-foot long. Its 2- to 3-inch-wide flowers appear in clusters at the stems' tips in summer and autumn, each lasting for about three days. Those fragrant blooms vary in color from white to pinkish mauve with a darker purple lip. The Missouri Botanical Garden lists the bamboo orchid as perennial only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12, but other sources consider it hardy as far north as USDA zone 9.
Indoor Position
Due to its large size and preference for high humidity, this orchid generally performs better outdoors than indoors. If you wish to try it as a houseplant, a clump – which usually contains three to five canes – needs a pot at least 12 inches in diameter. The bamboo orchid isn't picky about its medium and can be grown in regular potting soil, sphagnum moss or a more typical orchid mix of 1 part organic potting soil, 1 part coarse orchid bark and 1 part sand.
The bamboo orchid prefers full sun or at least partial sun, so position it on or near a south-facing windowsill where it receives temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep the air moist around it by placing it in a humid room, such as a bathroom, or setting it atop a humidity tray.
The plant is seldom bothered by pests or diseases.
Indoor Provisions
Water the orchid frequently enough that its medium or mix never dries out completely.
Fertilize it once a week from spring to fall with a 20-20-20 plant food, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the crystals into 1 gallon of water. Always follow label instructions.
If possible, move the plant outdoors during the summer, setting it in shade at first, and gradually accustoming it to full sun.
Outdoor Position
If you wish to grow the bamboo orchid outdoors, place it in a protected, raised bed in full or partial sun. That bed should be filled with a humus-rich soil, which is about 2 parts compost, 1 part topsoil and 1 part coarse sand. Space the plants 1 foot apart in that bed and mulch it with 3 inches of shredded bark -- to keep the soil moist -- but don't allow the mulch to touch the plant's stems.
Outdoor Provisions
Water the bed about once every three days when there is no rain, or however often is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out.
Feed the orchids once every two months during spring and summer by pulling back the mulch and sprinkling the pellets of an organic fertilizer, such as 5-5-5 around the bases of the plants, using 1 cup for each 20 square feet of bed.
When all the buds on a cane have bloomed, snip that cane off near soil level with sterilized pruning tools.
Indoor Position
Due to its large size and preference for high humidity, this orchid generally performs better outdoors than indoors. If you wish to try it as a houseplant, a clump – which usually contains three to five canes – needs a pot at least 12 inches in diameter. The bamboo orchid isn't picky about its medium and can be grown in regular potting soil, sphagnum moss or a more typical orchid mix of 1 part organic potting soil, 1 part coarse orchid bark and 1 part sand.
The bamboo orchid prefers full sun or at least partial sun, so position it on or near a south-facing windowsill where it receives temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep the air moist around it by placing it in a humid room, such as a bathroom, or setting it atop a humidity tray.
The plant is seldom bothered by pests or diseases.
Indoor Provisions
Water the orchid frequently enough that its medium or mix never dries out completely.
Fertilize it once a week from spring to fall with a 20-20-20 plant food, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the crystals into 1 gallon of water. Always follow label instructions.
If possible, move the plant outdoors during the summer, setting it in shade at first, and gradually accustoming it to full sun.
Outdoor Position
If you wish to grow the bamboo orchid outdoors, place it in a protected, raised bed in full or partial sun. That bed should be filled with a humus-rich soil, which is about 2 parts compost, 1 part topsoil and 1 part coarse sand. Space the plants 1 foot apart in that bed and mulch it with 3 inches of shredded bark -- to keep the soil moist -- but don't allow the mulch to touch the plant's stems.
Outdoor Provisions
Water the bed about once every three days when there is no rain, or however often is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out.
Feed the orchids once every two months during spring and summer by pulling back the mulch and sprinkling the pellets of an organic fertilizer, such as 5-5-5 around the bases of the plants, using 1 cup for each 20 square feet of bed.
When all the buds on a cane have bloomed, snip that cane off near soil level with sterilized pruning tools.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Alocasias are fantastic plants for the garden or home. Native to Southeast Asia and Australia, they are used to warm temperatures year round and must be overwintered in pots or dug up and stored as bulbs in a cool, dry place in all but the warmest climates. Regardless of how you grow them, though, fertilizing alocasia plants is essential to their healthy growth. Keep reading to learn about alocasia plant feeding and when to fertilize alocasia.
Feeding Alocasias
Alocasia plants have the potential to become enormous. If overwintered successfully for multiple years, they can reach 10 feet (3 m.) in height and produce leaves that are 3 feet (0.9 m) long. The key to growing such stunning plants is fertilizer.
Alocasias are very heavy feeders, and fertilizing alocasia plants frequently is the only way to keep up with their appetite. Before planting your alocasias, mix 2 pounds of slow release fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of soil. Keep up regular fertilization every two to four weeks.
Fertilizer for Alocasia in Pots Is feeding alocasias really necessary if you’re growing them indoors? Chances are you want your houseplant somewhere under ten feet tall. The thing about fertilizer, however, is that it isn’t just for rapid growth. Kept in a pot, your alocasia almost certainly won’t reach its full potential size, but it still needs regular fertilization, perhaps even more so.
Because of the small amount of soil in a container, nutrients can be washed away more easily. With every watering, add a little water soluble fertilizer to keep your alocasia plants growing healthy and strong. If your alocasia’s leaves start to appear burnt, however, it probably means you’re applying too much fertilizer. Flush the container with plenty of clean water until it runs out of the drainage holes and cut back on your fertilizing regimen.
Feeding Alocasias
Alocasia plants have the potential to become enormous. If overwintered successfully for multiple years, they can reach 10 feet (3 m.) in height and produce leaves that are 3 feet (0.9 m) long. The key to growing such stunning plants is fertilizer.
Alocasias are very heavy feeders, and fertilizing alocasia plants frequently is the only way to keep up with their appetite. Before planting your alocasias, mix 2 pounds of slow release fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of soil. Keep up regular fertilization every two to four weeks.
Fertilizer for Alocasia in Pots Is feeding alocasias really necessary if you’re growing them indoors? Chances are you want your houseplant somewhere under ten feet tall. The thing about fertilizer, however, is that it isn’t just for rapid growth. Kept in a pot, your alocasia almost certainly won’t reach its full potential size, but it still needs regular fertilization, perhaps even more so.
Because of the small amount of soil in a container, nutrients can be washed away more easily. With every watering, add a little water soluble fertilizer to keep your alocasia plants growing healthy and strong. If your alocasia’s leaves start to appear burnt, however, it probably means you’re applying too much fertilizer. Flush the container with plenty of clean water until it runs out of the drainage holes and cut back on your fertilizing regimen.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gerbera is a genus of the family of sunflowers, Daisies and Asters - Asteraceae, with a wide distribution from Africa to Madagascar, tropical Asia and South America. Through hybridization, Gerberas are available in a massive array of colors.
Some Interesting Facts About Gerberas
Having a long vase life, Gerbera flowers are widely used in the Cut Flower Industry. Gerberas are great flowers for adding color to any room or garden.
Gerberas are also referred to as Gerbera Daisies, daisy being a general name for all species in the family Asteraceae, to which Gerberas belong.
Gerbera flowers often measure 7 inches (17.8 cm) across.
Gerberas come in a wide range of colors - from light to dark yellow, orange, pink, brilliant scarlet, deep red, and many more.
Gerberas can be used in landscapes as bedding plants for borders and flower beds or as Cut Flowers for table arrangements.
Gerberas are native to Transvaal, South Africa.
Hybrid Gerbera varieties cloned through tissue culture are uniform, and have long-lasting flowers with thick peduncles that are not light sensitive; hence, flowers remain open in the dark, lending themselves to indoor use in flower arrangements.
About Gerbera Flower
Gerberas are perennial flowering plants featuring a large capitulum with striking, 2-lipped ray florets. The capitulum on the Gerberas has the appearance of a single flower, but is actually a cluster of hundreds of individual flowers. The morphology of the flowers varies depending on their position in the capitulum of the Gerberas.
Various Forms of Gerbera Flowers
Gerberas come in various forms. Broadly, they can be put into four groups-
Single Flowers - These Gerberas have a row of non-overlapping petals (ray florets) with a green center (disc florets). These are the most common gerberas available in the market.
Double or duplex - These Gerberas have a double row of overlapping petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Crested doubles - These doubles contain two rows of overlapping petals with one or more inner rows of shorter petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Full crested doubles - These have solid overlapping rows of petals with an inner row diminishing in size, covering the eye entirely.
Growing Gerberas
The most inexpensive way to produce gerberas is from seed obtained from reputable seed suppliers.
Seeds should be germinated in an artificial growing medium. Germinating seeds in field sand or field sand mixed with materials such as perlite and/or peat moss is not recommended because field sand is usually not sterile. Artificial growing media that are sterile, lightweight, and have good water retention capacity and drainage can be purchased in garden supply stores. These materials often have fertilizers incorporated.
The medium can be placed in flats or pots that have drainage holes. Make shallow rows in the medium approximately twice the depth of the diameter of the seed, sow seeds in the rows, cover lightly with extra medium and water carefully.
After seeds are planted and watered, cover the container with a sheet of glass or clear plastic and place the germination container approximately 18 inches (45.7 cm) below a fluorescent light. Check the medium daily for moisture and for signs of seed germination.
The medium should never be allowed to dry, especially when gerbera seeds are starting to germinate. When watering is necessary, apply a sufficient amount to allow excess water to drain out of the container. Any water that collects in the saucer beneath the germination container should be discarded.
Tall and spindly seedlings can be avoided by transplanting seedlings to small pots as soon as the first true leaves appear. Seedlings can be grown in small pots until they are large enough to transplant into flower beds.
Some Interesting Facts About Gerberas
Having a long vase life, Gerbera flowers are widely used in the Cut Flower Industry. Gerberas are great flowers for adding color to any room or garden.
Gerberas are also referred to as Gerbera Daisies, daisy being a general name for all species in the family Asteraceae, to which Gerberas belong.
Gerbera flowers often measure 7 inches (17.8 cm) across.
Gerberas come in a wide range of colors - from light to dark yellow, orange, pink, brilliant scarlet, deep red, and many more.
Gerberas can be used in landscapes as bedding plants for borders and flower beds or as Cut Flowers for table arrangements.
Gerberas are native to Transvaal, South Africa.
Hybrid Gerbera varieties cloned through tissue culture are uniform, and have long-lasting flowers with thick peduncles that are not light sensitive; hence, flowers remain open in the dark, lending themselves to indoor use in flower arrangements.
About Gerbera Flower
Gerberas are perennial flowering plants featuring a large capitulum with striking, 2-lipped ray florets. The capitulum on the Gerberas has the appearance of a single flower, but is actually a cluster of hundreds of individual flowers. The morphology of the flowers varies depending on their position in the capitulum of the Gerberas.
Various Forms of Gerbera Flowers
Gerberas come in various forms. Broadly, they can be put into four groups-
Single Flowers - These Gerberas have a row of non-overlapping petals (ray florets) with a green center (disc florets). These are the most common gerberas available in the market.
Double or duplex - These Gerberas have a double row of overlapping petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Crested doubles - These doubles contain two rows of overlapping petals with one or more inner rows of shorter petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Full crested doubles - These have solid overlapping rows of petals with an inner row diminishing in size, covering the eye entirely.
Growing Gerberas
The most inexpensive way to produce gerberas is from seed obtained from reputable seed suppliers.
Seeds should be germinated in an artificial growing medium. Germinating seeds in field sand or field sand mixed with materials such as perlite and/or peat moss is not recommended because field sand is usually not sterile. Artificial growing media that are sterile, lightweight, and have good water retention capacity and drainage can be purchased in garden supply stores. These materials often have fertilizers incorporated.
The medium can be placed in flats or pots that have drainage holes. Make shallow rows in the medium approximately twice the depth of the diameter of the seed, sow seeds in the rows, cover lightly with extra medium and water carefully.
After seeds are planted and watered, cover the container with a sheet of glass or clear plastic and place the germination container approximately 18 inches (45.7 cm) below a fluorescent light. Check the medium daily for moisture and for signs of seed germination.
The medium should never be allowed to dry, especially when gerbera seeds are starting to germinate. When watering is necessary, apply a sufficient amount to allow excess water to drain out of the container. Any water that collects in the saucer beneath the germination container should be discarded.
Tall and spindly seedlings can be avoided by transplanting seedlings to small pots as soon as the first true leaves appear. Seedlings can be grown in small pots until they are large enough to transplant into flower beds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cymbidiums are among the most popular winter and spring blooming orchids. The word Cymbidium Comes from Greek kymbe meaning a boat, referring to hollowness in the lip of the flower. Cymbidium is native of tropical and subtropical Asia covering North-India, China, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Borneo islands and North-Australia, usually growing in cooler climates at high elevation.
Cymbidium orchids are thick, waxy flowers with five pointed petals on each bloom. At present the genus Cymbidium consists of 44 species originating from the Asian continent. Cymbidium is one of the most popular and desirable orchids in the world because of the beauty of flowers. Cymbidiums are very popular in floral arrangements floral corsages. Cymbidiums are available in a rainbow of colours. The breath taking sprays of cymbidium flowers make ideal home or patio decorations. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 - 3 months.
Facts About Cymbidium
Cymbidiums have been cultivated for thousands of years, especially in ancient China.
Cymbidiums became popular in Europe during the Victorian era. One feature that makes the cymbidium so popular is the fact that the plant can survive cold temperatures as low as 7 degree Centigrade.
In his writings, Confucius referred to the Asian Cymbidium as the King of Fragrance
Cymbidiums usually bloom once a year during winter and spring seasons and the flowers last for more than four weeks.
Cymbidiums may be divided into two main groups- Standard Cymbidiums (large-flowered type) and Miniature Cymbidiums (small-flowered type).
A cymbidium plant has three types of bulbs-
1. Old back bulbs without leaves, which reserve food supply for emergencies.
2.Old bulbs with leaves, Supporting the new growth and may produce flowers.
3.New leads or bulbs, from where flowers grow.
Growing Cymbidiums
Repotting is done every 2 to 4 years and is best indicated by the plant bulbs filling the pot or the plant not growing well over the past year.
A healthy plant should grow 1 to 2 new bulbs each year from each bulb that grew the previous year.
When repotting, the roots should be teased apart to remove old potting mix and then dead roots are to be removed.
If required a plant may then be divided into two or more plants by twisting and tearing the bulbs apart.
For best results, each Cymbidium pot should be as large as possible otherwise the flowering will be retarded for 1 to 2 years.
Cymbidium Plant Care
Don't take your plant inside where the atmosphere is hot and dry due to artificial heating.
Cymbidium will drop its flower buds and ultimately drop its leaves in this warm dry atmosphere.
Don't leave flower spikes on the plant until the flowers die. This can result in non flowering the following season.
Approximately four weeks after the last flower is fully open, the spike should be removed so that the plant has a full growing cycle for next year's flowering.
If your plant fails to flower give it the recommended attention plus exposure to a sunnier situation to help force flower spikes.
Water very regularly in growing season.
Pour off any unabsorbed water.
Feed with orchid fertilizer once a month in summer.
Cymbidium orchids are thick, waxy flowers with five pointed petals on each bloom. At present the genus Cymbidium consists of 44 species originating from the Asian continent. Cymbidium is one of the most popular and desirable orchids in the world because of the beauty of flowers. Cymbidiums are very popular in floral arrangements floral corsages. Cymbidiums are available in a rainbow of colours. The breath taking sprays of cymbidium flowers make ideal home or patio decorations. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 - 3 months.
Facts About Cymbidium
Cymbidiums have been cultivated for thousands of years, especially in ancient China.
Cymbidiums became popular in Europe during the Victorian era. One feature that makes the cymbidium so popular is the fact that the plant can survive cold temperatures as low as 7 degree Centigrade.
In his writings, Confucius referred to the Asian Cymbidium as the King of Fragrance
Cymbidiums usually bloom once a year during winter and spring seasons and the flowers last for more than four weeks.
Cymbidiums may be divided into two main groups- Standard Cymbidiums (large-flowered type) and Miniature Cymbidiums (small-flowered type).
A cymbidium plant has three types of bulbs-
1. Old back bulbs without leaves, which reserve food supply for emergencies.
2.Old bulbs with leaves, Supporting the new growth and may produce flowers.
3.New leads or bulbs, from where flowers grow.
Growing Cymbidiums
Repotting is done every 2 to 4 years and is best indicated by the plant bulbs filling the pot or the plant not growing well over the past year.
A healthy plant should grow 1 to 2 new bulbs each year from each bulb that grew the previous year.
When repotting, the roots should be teased apart to remove old potting mix and then dead roots are to be removed.
If required a plant may then be divided into two or more plants by twisting and tearing the bulbs apart.
For best results, each Cymbidium pot should be as large as possible otherwise the flowering will be retarded for 1 to 2 years.
Cymbidium Plant Care
Don't take your plant inside where the atmosphere is hot and dry due to artificial heating.
Cymbidium will drop its flower buds and ultimately drop its leaves in this warm dry atmosphere.
Don't leave flower spikes on the plant until the flowers die. This can result in non flowering the following season.
Approximately four weeks after the last flower is fully open, the spike should be removed so that the plant has a full growing cycle for next year's flowering.
If your plant fails to flower give it the recommended attention plus exposure to a sunnier situation to help force flower spikes.
Water very regularly in growing season.
Pour off any unabsorbed water.
Feed with orchid fertilizer once a month in summer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
- Nombre científico o latino: Rosa canina
- Nombre común o vulgar: Rosal silvestre, Escaramujo, Rosal perruno, Zarzarrosa, Agavanzo
- Familia: Rosaceae (Rosáceas).
- Origen: Rosa canina presenta su distribuci6n general en Europa, Asia accidental y noroeste de África.
- Etimología: su nombre significa "rosa de perro", posiblemente aludiendo al parecido de sus aguijones con los colmillos de un perro. Según otros, porque esta planta se utilizaba anteriormente para curar la rabia.
- Es un arbusto enmarañado de 1 a 3 metros de altura. Los tallos se retuercen y trepan entre la maleza.
- Tallos y ramas de color verde provistos de aguijones fuertes, curvados.
- Las hojas son caducas, compuestas imparipinnadas con 5 a 7 hojuelas aovadas.
- Hojas compuestas con 2 o 3 pares de foliolos dentados ovales.
- Las flores son de color blanco o rosa. Dispuestas en racimos de una a cuatro flores, provistas de pedúnculos sin pelos. La corola está integrada por cinco pétalos anchos con una escotadura en el extremo, de color que puede variar desde el rosa intenso al blanco.
- Flores solitarias o agrupadas en corimbos, de color rosado o blanco, de 4 a 5 cm de diámetro, con numerosos estambres y sépalos que caen antes que el fruto.
- Florece en primavera-verano y los frutos maduran al final del verano o principios de otoño.
- La base del cáliz se agranda y se vuelve carnosa, cambiando progresivamente de color hasta volverse totalmente roja. Durante este proceso maduran las semilla en su interior, que se vuelven duras como huesecillos.
- El fruto, llamado "escaramujo" o "tapaculo", es carnoso y de color rojo.
- El principal aprovechamiento es el fruto, especialmente por su riqueza en vitaminas: carotenoides, vitamina P y sobre todo C, y además son astringentes. Se puede consumir directamente o en mermeladas y se puede hacer con ellos preparados farmacéuticos.
- A veces en sus ramos aparecen unas protuberancias que la misma planta origina para alojar las larvas de los insectos Rhodite Rosae. Estas formaciones se llaman bedegares y tienen aplicaciones medicinales.
- Esta rosa silvestre tiene una gran amplitud ecológica, encontrándose sobre todo tipo de suelos, preferentemente en las montañas.
- Junto a otras rosáceas espinosas, se encuentra formando parte del sotobosque arbustivo de bosques caducifolios, como son los quejigares. Se encuentra en bosques, setos, al lado de los caminos.
- La Rosa canina tiene varias propiedades medicinales: digestivas, antiinflamatorias, laxantes, vinamínicas, problemas de los nervios, astringente, tónico y estimulante sexual. El uso de aceite esencial para realizar masajes relajantes antes del acto sexual ayuda a eliminar la tensión, reduce el estrés, permite una mayor comunicación entre la pareja e incrementa el deseo sexual, por lo que puede considerarse una planta con propiedades afrodisiacas.
- En la cocina, a parte de la mermelada realizada con la pasta de escaramujo, puede utilizarse los pétalos de la rosa silvestre para decorar tartas, una vez los hemos confitado. Mezclados con miel o azúcar, también se pueden realizar estupendas gelatinas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
What we think of as the quintessential southern plant, the azalea, is actually mostly native to Asia. There are a few native to the United States, but the plants with huge flowers in pink, white, red, burgundy, and coral are imports. No matter! They’re a must-have in zones 6 to 9 for their amazing spring show. As shrubs go, azaleas are of the “little work, big reward” variety, so they’re definitely worth considering for your own garden and landscape.
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月02日
Flowering - April - June.
Habitat - North and East-facing slopes of ravines, mesic, upland woods.
Origin - Native to U.S., Europe, and Asia.
Other info. - This showy and striking species can be found throughout Missouri. The plant is just one of a larger complex of plants which occur in Europe, Asia, and North America. At present, two varieties are recognized in Missouri. Variety parviflorum (Salisb.) Fernald has a corolla lip 2-3cm long, and 4-6 leaves per flowering stem. Variety pubescens (Willd.) Correll has a corolla lip 3-6cm long and 3-4 leaves per flowering stem. Both varieties are commonly scattered throughout the state. A rare white form of var. parviflorum has been collected in Missouri in a couple of southern counties.
Due to its beauty, the plant has been dug for gardening use and the species has declined in the wild. The roots are also collected for medicinal use. The plant was used traditionally to remedy headaches, hysteria, insomnia, depression, and menstrual irregularities.
It would be a shame to see this species decline more in the wild because of harvesting. Plants will grow from seed and pods can be easily collected in the late summer.
Habitat - North and East-facing slopes of ravines, mesic, upland woods.
Origin - Native to U.S., Europe, and Asia.
Other info. - This showy and striking species can be found throughout Missouri. The plant is just one of a larger complex of plants which occur in Europe, Asia, and North America. At present, two varieties are recognized in Missouri. Variety parviflorum (Salisb.) Fernald has a corolla lip 2-3cm long, and 4-6 leaves per flowering stem. Variety pubescens (Willd.) Correll has a corolla lip 3-6cm long and 3-4 leaves per flowering stem. Both varieties are commonly scattered throughout the state. A rare white form of var. parviflorum has been collected in Missouri in a couple of southern counties.
Due to its beauty, the plant has been dug for gardening use and the species has declined in the wild. The roots are also collected for medicinal use. The plant was used traditionally to remedy headaches, hysteria, insomnia, depression, and menstrual irregularities.
It would be a shame to see this species decline more in the wild because of harvesting. Plants will grow from seed and pods can be easily collected in the late summer.
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Miss Chen
2017年07月19日
Nombre científico o latino: Camellia japonica
Nombre común o vulgar: Camelia, Camelio común
Familia: Teaceae.
Origen: Asia oriental, China, Japón, Indochina y varias islas de esa zona.
Esta planta llegó a Europa desde Oriente (Japón y Corea, fundamentalmente) de la mano de los jesuitas.
En la Península Ibérica no se conocen hasta el siglo XVIII y, no es hasta la segunda mitad del siglo XIX cuando comienza a mencionarse en escritos y a divulgarse a través de las diferentes Exposiciones que se organizan.
Etimología: el nombre del género proviene de un padre jesuita, que vivió en el siglo XVII, Camellus.
Arbusto o árbol perennifolio.
Crecimiento lento.
Arbusto excepcional por su floración otoñal, invernal o primaveral.
Flores: Las flores son solitarias, aparecen en el ápice de cada rama, y son con una corola simple o doble, y comprendiendo varios colores. Suelen medir unos 7-12 cm de diàmetro y tienen 5 sépalos y 5 pétalos. Estambres numerosos unidos en la mitad o en 2/3 de su longitud.
El color de sus flores va del blanco al rojo, simples, dobles o bicolores.
Las camelias carecen de fragancia.
Hojas: hojas persistentes, coriáceas, brevemente pecioladas, con bordes dentados , terminando en punta, alternas y de color verde oscuro reluciente y vivo con el envés más pálido.
Existen más de 3.000 variedades diferentes de la Camellia japonica, número que cada año va en aumento con la aparición de otras nuevas.
Camellia sasanqua es una especie similar a la Camellia japonica, se diferencia de ella por su floración más temprana que se sitúa en torno al otoño y principios de invierno.
El aceite proveniente de sus semillas se deshidrata muy poco y retiene la humedad; por esta razón, se utilizó como acondicionador del cabello y en los tratamientos de la piel, para prevenir las asperezas.
Sus excelentes propiedades antioxidantes lo hacían ideal para cocinar.
De sus semillas se extrae un aceite que utilizan las japonesas para teñir sus cabellos.
Símbolo de longevidad, lazo de amor, feliz matrimonio, fortuna, victoria y felicidad.
Las camelias son plantas muy vistosas durante todo el año.
Se utilizan en jardines como elementos individuales o setos.
También se pueden cultivar en macetones y para flor cortada.
Luz: comúnmente a semisombra, pero a veces pueden exponerse a pleno sol a condición de rociar frecuentemente las hojas y de que no falte la humedad atmosférica.
Protegerla del sol directo con tela media sombra para que las hojas no se vuelvan pardas y pierdan su bonito color verde.
Hay que cuidarla del calor fuerte, a no ser que a las hojas no les falte humedad atmosférica.
Cuidado con los vientos frios y las heladas, pueden dañar los capullos, lo mejor es plantarlo al abrigo de un muro.
La perjudican las heladas tardías que pueden afectar a sus hojas.
En climas con temperaturas inferiores frecuentes a -5ºC no sobreviven.
Gusta de un ambiente húmedo.
Suelo ácido, poroso y con gran cantidad de materia orgánica como puede ser el mantillo de castaño, la turba o el compost de brezo.
Nunca las plante en suelo calcáreo.
No se adapta a suelos calcáreos.
Se recomienda un buen drenaje.
No tolera las sales.
Riego: necesita un riego constante durante el verano y en invierno el riego será moderado ya que bastará con rociar la planta de manera habitual.
Hay que evitar el riego con agua demasiado calcárea.
Abono: debemos abonar después de la floración y despunte, cuando ya se aprecia la yema floral en el ápice de cada rama.
También es muy recomendable que, cada cierto tiempo, le añadamos sulfato de hierro, o mejor, quelatos de hierro o algún abono "ácido" especial para camelias o plantas acidófilas como hortensia, gardenia, brezos, etc..
Fertilícelas sólo en primavera o verano, con pequeñas dosis de abono ácido, para no producir toxicidad por exceso de urea.
Es un error grave alimentarla en una época incorrecta.
Poda de Camelia.
Poda de Limpieza.
Elimina los siguientes elementos indeseables, preferiblemente en invierno:
Ramas muertas, secas o enfermas.
Tocones secos (trozos de ramas que no tiene brotes y están secos).
Rebrotes que hayan podido surgir desde la misma raíz (se les llaman sierpes).
Rebrotes del pie del arbusto que sean débiles o mal situados y no nos interese que se desarrollen como rama del arbusto.
Ramas cruzadas, mal orientadas o que enmarañan el arbusto.
Se aclara el arbusto.
Ramas que sobresalen mucho del arbusto por su exceso de vigor (se le llaman chupones).
No conviene dejar madurar sus flores a frutos porque que le quita fuerza.
Si es necesario, corrige la asimetría para mejorar la apariencia, por ejemplo, si está la copa descompensada.
Poda de Floración.
No podes a la Camelia cuando tenga capullos.
Despunta todos los ramos inmediatamente después de la floración, en primavera, a pulgares cortos de 2 ó 3 yemas laterales, es decir, cortando justo por encima de la segunda o tercera yema contada desde la inserción del brote. De estas yemas surgirán brotes que al año siguiente darán en la punta de los nuevos ramos una flor.
Si quieres flores más grandes aunque en menor cantidad, donde veas muchos capullos juntos por rama o brote, deja uno solo, retirándolos hacia el mes de noviembre (Hemisferio Norte).
Plagas y enfermedades de la Camelia:
ENFERMEDADES.
Moteado de las hojas.
Está producida por el hongo Phyllosticta camelliae. Aparte de la recogida y quema de las hojas enfermas, puede recurrirse a tratamientos fungicidas o a espolvoreo con azufre.
Manchas plateadas.
Son manchas que dan un aspecto plateado al haz. Se distinguen puntitos negros, correspondientes a los picniidos del hongo causante (Pestalozzia guepini). Además de recoger y quemar las hojas caídas, puede protegerse las demás con fungicida.
Agallas foliares.
Las hojas nuevas de los brotes quedan engrosadas y deformadas por el hongo Exobasidium camelliae.
Las hojas toman un color blanco-rosáceo y consistencia casi cérea. Arrancar y destruir las hojas enfermas. También se consideran eficaces pulverizaciones con Zineb cuando están próximas a brotar las hojas.
Negrilla.
Combatir Cochinillas y Pulgones para que no aparezca el hongo Negrilla.
Manchas en las flores.
Manchas en los pétalos por el hongo Ovulinia azaleae. Puede ser también debido a la infección por Sclerotinia sclerotiorum que llegan desde la tierra las esporas de este hongo hasta las flores.
Bacteriosis.
Manchas amarillas sobre las hojas. En las flores los pétalos amarillean y se secan. Los pedúnculos se ven ennegrecidos.
Virosis.
Hojas y flores variegadas. Probablemente sea la enfermedad que otros autores atribuyen a bacteriosis.
Chancros de la corteza.
Los producen distintos hongos como Glomerella, Phomopsis. Podar y quemarlas ramas que tengan chancros y si es en el tronco, sanearlo con una navaja bien afilada. Estos hongos entran por heridas.
Caída de capullos.
Antes de abrirse la flor, la caída de capullos puede ser por defectos en el abonado o por cambios bruscos de temperatura. Evita el exceso de riego, la luz escasa y las altas temperaturas.
Clorosis o amarilleo.
Puede ser por falta de algún elemento nutritivo del suelo o por asfixia o pudrición de las raíces.
Golpe de sol.
Demasiado sol puede producir en la Camelia (recuerda que es una planta de media sombra) quemaduras en las hojas o manchas marrones. Se presenta mucho cuando se lleva una Camelia que estaba en la sombra al sol.
PLAGAS.
Cochinillas.
Pulgones.
Gusanos de las raíces.
Las plantas pueden ser debilitadas a causa del ataque de sus raíces por larvas de diversos escarbajos (Anoxia, Phylloperta, etc.). Tratamiento al suelo en primavera y verano, porque en invierno se encuentra a mayor profundidad.
Arañuelas.
Diversos Ácaros atacan a las hojas.
No mojar las flores para evitar pudriciones (Botritis).
Las lluvias con temperatura suave pueden hacer que las camelias blancas y rosadas se infecten con botritis. Se previene con fungicida.
En primavera, cuando inician su descanso para formar nuevas hojas, aplique mensualmente hasta que entre el otoño, un fungicida como Captan o Thiram a modo de prevención.
Si aparecen manchas en las hojas, repita la operación en el verano.
Si las hojas se ponen amarillas y los botones no abren, es posible que el suelo no tenga la acidez necesaria.
Si los botones sanos de las flores se caen antes de tiempo, quizás le falte al suelo le falta Boro o Zinc.
Multiplicación de Camelia:
Las camelias se propagan por semilla, estacas, injerto y acodo.
Para conservar los cultivares selectos se deben usar estacas, injertos o acodos.
Las plantas obtenidas de semilla se usan en la obtención de nuevas variedades, como patrones para injertar o para setos, donde lo que interesa es el follaje, no las flores.
Semillas.
Las semillas se deben recoger en el otoño cuando las cápsulas se empiezan a poner café rojizas y abrirse, antes que tiren las semillas.
No se debe permitir que las semillas se sequen antes de la siembra ya que la mejor germinación se logra si se siembra antes que sus cubiertas se endurezcan.
Si las semillas se tienen que almacenar por un periodo largo, se conservarán satisfactoriamente si se les mezcla con carbón vegetal molido y se les guarda en un recipiente bien cerrado en un lugar fresco.
Después que se han formado las cubiertas duras de la semilla, la germinación se puede acelerar vertiendo sobre ellas agua hirviendo y dejándolas en remojo por 24 h en el agua que se va enfriando.
La germinación no presenta problemas en particular, pero se debe usar un suelo ácido bien drenado y rico en materia orgánica.
Generalmente, se necesitan de 4 a 7 años para que florezca una planta de camelia obtenida de semilla.
Estacas.
La mayoría Camelias se producen comercialmente por estacas.
Lo mejor es tomar las estacas a la mitad del verano, de los brotes del crecimiento en primavera, una vez que la madera ha madurado algo y ha cambiado su color de verde a café claro.
Se usan estacas de puntas, de 7 a 15 cm de largo en las que se retienen de dos a tres hojas terminales.
El enraice se mejora mucho si las estacas se tratan con ácido indolbutírico a 20 ppm durante 24 h.
Las estacas se enraizan mejor bajo humedad elevada, bien sea en una estructura cerrada o bajo niebla.
Las camelias también pueden iniciarse por estacas con yema y hoja.
Injerto.
Las camelias se injertan con frecuencia no sólo para producir plantas de vivero, sino para cambiar las variedades de plantas viejas ya establecidas.
Como patrones se pueden usar plantas obtenidas de semilla o estacas enraizadas de Camellia japonica o Camelia sasanqua, pero deben ser plantas fuertes y bien enraizadas antes que se intente injertarlas.
En la propagación en invernadero de esas plántulas, es apropiado alguno de los métodos de injerto de costado.
Para injertar plantas establecidas más grandes, se usa tanto el método de hendedura como el de corteza.
Es mejor si se practica en la primavera 2 o 3 semanas antes que se inicie el nuevo crecimiento.
Tanto el patrón como la púa deben estar en reposo en la época de hacer el injerto.
Se visan púas de varios centímetro; de largo tomadas de ramas terminales que tengan una o dos hojas.
Y varias yemas latentes insertándolas en la planta patrón, la que se corta 5 a 8 cm arriba del nivel del suelo.
En el injerto de hendedura, los patrones más delgados de 1,5 cm de diámetro se deben envolver firmemente con hilo de rafia para mantener la púa en su lugar.
Esto no es necesario en patrones más grandes.
Una vez que se ha completado el injerto, generalmente se encera la unión, pero algunas veces no se hace.
En cualquier caso, se debe cubrir con tierra húmeda bien pulverizada o con arena hasta la base de las hojas de la púa.
Se puede colocar invertido sobre la púa un tarro grande de vidrio, pero se debe sombrear para evitar las temperaturas excesivamente altas en su interior.
Una vez que las yemas de la púa empiezan a crecer, se levanta en forma gradual el tarro y finalmente se quita.
Acodado.
Para obtener una cuantas plantas adicionales de una sola planta madre, se puede recurrir al acodado simple en primavera.
Para hacer esto, debe haber ramas cercanas al suelo, las cuales de preferencia deben ser jóvenes y de no más de 1,5 cm de diámetro.
Se pueden necesitar de 1 a 2 años para que los acodos formen raíces suficientes para ser separados.
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Miss Chen
2017年07月19日
Nombre científico o latino: Callicarpa bodinieri
Nombre común o vulgar: Calicarpa, Bayas bonitas.
Familia: Verbenaceae.
Origen: Asia, China.
Hojas de color verde normalmente que se vuelve amarillo en otoño.
Ideal para sitios que requieran colorido en invierno.
Es mejor plantarlo en masa para que los frutos den un mayor impacto.
Necesita sol.
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