文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are a popular gardening trend that won’t be dying anytime soon. Enthusiasts love their geometric forms and exquisite, often intricate patterns and details. No longer viewed as just a desert or house plant, succulents can grow and actually thrive in various climates, depending on the type of succulent. In regions affected by drought, they are a smart, drought-tolerant alternative to thirsty lawns and other water-guzzling plants.
With very little effort, succulents can look so good. But they still require attention. Discover how to not only keep them alive, but get them to thrive.
1. Don’t Overwater Them
You love your succulents so much, you want to water them every other day to make them grow plump and lush. But what you’ll get is a soft, shriveled, squishy mess. Overwatering is a bigger problem for succulents than underwatering. Roots can rot. If it’s too late, look for healthy tissue, take some cuttings, and allow the cut end to callus (seal itself) and then replant it. Get rid of the soil in which the oversaturated succulent was in.
2. Don’t Neglect Them
Succulents and cacti: those are the desert-like plants that don’t need to be watered, like, ever—right? Wrong. Their watering needs are minimal, but they still need it to survive. If you live in a region that doesn’t get much rain, water succulents regularly during their periods of active growth. This would be spring through fall.
Container plants can be watered about once a week. Occasionally, let the hose drench the pot until water flows out, to remove built-up salts from the soil.
3. Group Plants with Similar Water Needs
In other words, don’t plant succulents next to super-fussy perennials that require rich soil and frequent watering. Ideally, you want to have a drought-tolerant, low-water area in your garden, a moderate water area, and so on. It just makes things easier for you and your plants will be happier.
4. The Right Soil
Cactus and succulent-mix soil is available by the bag at nurseries and home centers. While it’s useful for container plants, especially those that will be used as houseplants, it’s not always practical or necessary for succulents planted in the garden. Learn more about the type of soil that’s in your yard, and add amendments to make it fast-draining and on the dryer side.
While some succulents are so forgiving and will grow almost anywhere, even in clay, it’s best to give them optimal growing conditions for healthy roots and beautiful plants.
5. Shed Some Light
Most succulents need a mix of sunlight and shade to grow healthy. One extreme or the other is not going to result in a beautiful, happy plant. Learn about your particular succulent’s light requirements, and find the best place in your yard or space in which it plant it.
A hint: the color of the plant is a tip-off to its light needs. For example, shade-loving succulents are usually in hues of yellow and green. Sun lovers are more reddish and orange.
6. Protect from Frost
Succulents go dormant during the winter months, when they don’t need to be watered. In fact, watering them during dormant season can make their roots more susceptible to rot, and kill them. What they really like is a cool and dry climate.
If your area is experiencing lots of rain, and your succulents are in pots, move them under eaves to avoid over-saturation, or bring them inside.
Frost is another matter. Pay attention to freeze warnings. Cover with a cloth or plant under a tree, which protects succulents during the winter and summer.
7. Put Them in the Ground
Some people think that succulents are houseplants, and when they are grown outdoors, must be relegated to containers and pots. While they look great in a well-designed container arrangement, succulents, just like any other plant, love to be planted in garden beds where they can be fruitful and multiply. In warmer regions that don’t experience freezing temperatures during the winter, succulents will do just fine growing in the ground or raised beds.
Some are so forgiving of soil conditions that they can grow almost anywhere that has at least some soil to which they can attach their roots.
8. Allow to Callus Before Transplanting
Succulents are one of the easiest plants to propagate: just take a snippet, some leaves, a stem, offset, or “baby” and plop into the soil or another pot. But before you do, allow the stem to callus-over for a few days to prevent rot. This can be done by either placing cuttings or a paper towel and leaving them for up to five days, or putting them in a container or other place where you will remember to replant them.
9. Get Rid of Harmful Insects
One thing is certain: your succulent or cacti is not looking good. Symptoms include: buds that won’t open, distorted growth, cotton-like attachments to roots, tiny insects on new growth, paprika-like dots on leaves, brown bumps on stems, collapsed outer leaves, holes in leaves.
The culprit? Insects. Some gardeners believe that hardy succulents and cacti are resistant to insects–not so. Consult a master gardener site online or get one of the books about succulents and cacti to help you identify the symptom, insect, and solution.
10. Protect from Disease
One sign of disease in succulents is an orangeish, cancerous-like growth near or on the stem. It has probably become infected by a microscopic mite. To treat: remove the infected tissue and put the succulent in a separate container until new, healthy growth appears. To prevent spreading to other plants, remember to clean your tools after using them on infected succulents.
With very little effort, succulents can look so good. But they still require attention. Discover how to not only keep them alive, but get them to thrive.
1. Don’t Overwater Them
You love your succulents so much, you want to water them every other day to make them grow plump and lush. But what you’ll get is a soft, shriveled, squishy mess. Overwatering is a bigger problem for succulents than underwatering. Roots can rot. If it’s too late, look for healthy tissue, take some cuttings, and allow the cut end to callus (seal itself) and then replant it. Get rid of the soil in which the oversaturated succulent was in.
2. Don’t Neglect Them
Succulents and cacti: those are the desert-like plants that don’t need to be watered, like, ever—right? Wrong. Their watering needs are minimal, but they still need it to survive. If you live in a region that doesn’t get much rain, water succulents regularly during their periods of active growth. This would be spring through fall.
Container plants can be watered about once a week. Occasionally, let the hose drench the pot until water flows out, to remove built-up salts from the soil.
3. Group Plants with Similar Water Needs
In other words, don’t plant succulents next to super-fussy perennials that require rich soil and frequent watering. Ideally, you want to have a drought-tolerant, low-water area in your garden, a moderate water area, and so on. It just makes things easier for you and your plants will be happier.
4. The Right Soil
Cactus and succulent-mix soil is available by the bag at nurseries and home centers. While it’s useful for container plants, especially those that will be used as houseplants, it’s not always practical or necessary for succulents planted in the garden. Learn more about the type of soil that’s in your yard, and add amendments to make it fast-draining and on the dryer side.
While some succulents are so forgiving and will grow almost anywhere, even in clay, it’s best to give them optimal growing conditions for healthy roots and beautiful plants.
5. Shed Some Light
Most succulents need a mix of sunlight and shade to grow healthy. One extreme or the other is not going to result in a beautiful, happy plant. Learn about your particular succulent’s light requirements, and find the best place in your yard or space in which it plant it.
A hint: the color of the plant is a tip-off to its light needs. For example, shade-loving succulents are usually in hues of yellow and green. Sun lovers are more reddish and orange.
6. Protect from Frost
Succulents go dormant during the winter months, when they don’t need to be watered. In fact, watering them during dormant season can make their roots more susceptible to rot, and kill them. What they really like is a cool and dry climate.
If your area is experiencing lots of rain, and your succulents are in pots, move them under eaves to avoid over-saturation, or bring them inside.
Frost is another matter. Pay attention to freeze warnings. Cover with a cloth or plant under a tree, which protects succulents during the winter and summer.
7. Put Them in the Ground
Some people think that succulents are houseplants, and when they are grown outdoors, must be relegated to containers and pots. While they look great in a well-designed container arrangement, succulents, just like any other plant, love to be planted in garden beds where they can be fruitful and multiply. In warmer regions that don’t experience freezing temperatures during the winter, succulents will do just fine growing in the ground or raised beds.
Some are so forgiving of soil conditions that they can grow almost anywhere that has at least some soil to which they can attach their roots.
8. Allow to Callus Before Transplanting
Succulents are one of the easiest plants to propagate: just take a snippet, some leaves, a stem, offset, or “baby” and plop into the soil or another pot. But before you do, allow the stem to callus-over for a few days to prevent rot. This can be done by either placing cuttings or a paper towel and leaving them for up to five days, or putting them in a container or other place where you will remember to replant them.
9. Get Rid of Harmful Insects
One thing is certain: your succulent or cacti is not looking good. Symptoms include: buds that won’t open, distorted growth, cotton-like attachments to roots, tiny insects on new growth, paprika-like dots on leaves, brown bumps on stems, collapsed outer leaves, holes in leaves.
The culprit? Insects. Some gardeners believe that hardy succulents and cacti are resistant to insects–not so. Consult a master gardener site online or get one of the books about succulents and cacti to help you identify the symptom, insect, and solution.
10. Protect from Disease
One sign of disease in succulents is an orangeish, cancerous-like growth near or on the stem. It has probably become infected by a microscopic mite. To treat: remove the infected tissue and put the succulent in a separate container until new, healthy growth appears. To prevent spreading to other plants, remember to clean your tools after using them on infected succulents.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Look for
Small piles of earth around holes in soil, lawns, paths, and at the base of exterior walls. Adults may be in the house around fresh and stored food, and on sap-sucking pest-infested plants. Large swarms of flying ants appear in late summer.
Plants affected
Garden ants rarely cause damage to plants. However, they feed on sugary foods, oily seeds, honeydew from aphid-infected plants, and other small insects. Heaps of earth around the nest entrance can be a nuisance in the lawn where they interfere with mowing, and they can also partly bury low-growing plants.
About Garden ants
There are two main species of garden ants, the red ant Myrmica rubra and the black ant, Lasius niger.
Queen ants fly in from neighbouring gardens all the time but are killed by ants from existing nests. Killing a queen and her nest simply makes space for another. For this reason it is best to focus on controlling only those nests that are causing real problems.
Adult worker ants are all female, wingless, and around 5mm in length.
Queens are significantly longer and fatter.
Larvae are white legless grubs roughly 5mm long.
Each colony can vary in size from as small as 500 individuals to many thousands.
After over-wintering, females emerge in spring and lay eggs.
The first brood will be fed by the queen for three to four weeks before pupating in the soil.
Adult workers emerge after two weeks to maintain the nest and feed the queen and subsequent larvae.
When adults find a food source they leave a trail of chemicals known as pheromones back to the nest for others to follow.
Towards the end of summer winged males and females are produced.
Between August and September mating takes place during flight.
After mating, male adults die and females shed their wings and return to the soil to overwinter.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Garden ants
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
There are a large number of pesticides available for ant control although these are mainly for indoor use.
Organic
Observe foraging ants and follow them back to the nest.
Dig up nests where possible making sure to remove the queen.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Place tin cans over the ant hill in the morning. As it heats up, the ants take their eggs up into the can. In the afternoon slide a piece of cardboard under each can, and remove and dispose of the eggs. They make a tasty treat for birds, especially chickens.
Prevention
Clean previously infested surfaces to remove pheromone trails.
Use natural predators and parasites to control aphid populations.
Dig up soil in the winter months to disturb overwintering females.
Maintain pest-free plants.
Clean honeydew from any infested plants with water.
Small piles of earth around holes in soil, lawns, paths, and at the base of exterior walls. Adults may be in the house around fresh and stored food, and on sap-sucking pest-infested plants. Large swarms of flying ants appear in late summer.
Plants affected
Garden ants rarely cause damage to plants. However, they feed on sugary foods, oily seeds, honeydew from aphid-infected plants, and other small insects. Heaps of earth around the nest entrance can be a nuisance in the lawn where they interfere with mowing, and they can also partly bury low-growing plants.
About Garden ants
There are two main species of garden ants, the red ant Myrmica rubra and the black ant, Lasius niger.
Queen ants fly in from neighbouring gardens all the time but are killed by ants from existing nests. Killing a queen and her nest simply makes space for another. For this reason it is best to focus on controlling only those nests that are causing real problems.
Adult worker ants are all female, wingless, and around 5mm in length.
Queens are significantly longer and fatter.
Larvae are white legless grubs roughly 5mm long.
Each colony can vary in size from as small as 500 individuals to many thousands.
After over-wintering, females emerge in spring and lay eggs.
The first brood will be fed by the queen for three to four weeks before pupating in the soil.
Adult workers emerge after two weeks to maintain the nest and feed the queen and subsequent larvae.
When adults find a food source they leave a trail of chemicals known as pheromones back to the nest for others to follow.
Towards the end of summer winged males and females are produced.
Between August and September mating takes place during flight.
After mating, male adults die and females shed their wings and return to the soil to overwinter.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Garden ants
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
There are a large number of pesticides available for ant control although these are mainly for indoor use.
Organic
Observe foraging ants and follow them back to the nest.
Dig up nests where possible making sure to remove the queen.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Place tin cans over the ant hill in the morning. As it heats up, the ants take their eggs up into the can. In the afternoon slide a piece of cardboard under each can, and remove and dispose of the eggs. They make a tasty treat for birds, especially chickens.
Prevention
Clean previously infested surfaces to remove pheromone trails.
Use natural predators and parasites to control aphid populations.
Dig up soil in the winter months to disturb overwintering females.
Maintain pest-free plants.
Clean honeydew from any infested plants with water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fungus gnats (families Mycetophilidae and Sciaridae) are a common pest of plants grown indoors, especially where humidity and moisture are high. They’re usually first noticed when the harmless adults are seen flying around house plants or gathered at a nearby window. These non-biting adult gnats can become a flying nuisance. But it’s the larval stage, feeding in the soil, that can damage tender plant roots.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Coleus is a fantastic plant for adding color to your garden or house. A member of the mint family, it’s not known for its flowers, but for its beautiful and vibrantly colored leaves. On top of that, it’s extremely well suited to growing in containers. But how do you grow coleus in pots? Keep reading to learn about potted coleus care and how to grow coleus in containers.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Elephants eat it, but you need not fear for your Portulacaria unless you have a pet pachyderm. The plant is a succulent with fleshy, glossy leaves that grows as a small bush. They are only hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Elephant bush houseplants (Portulacaria afra) thrive in bright light in a warm, draft free room. A few rules on how to care for elephant bush will help you grow a specimen of interest that may be a stand-alone plant or part of an intricate succulent garden.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
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5
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Chlorophytum comosum may be lurking in your house. What is Chlorophytum comosum? Only one of the most popular houseplants. You may recognize its common name of spider plant, AKA airplane plant, St. Bernard’s lily, spider ivy or ribbon plant. Spider plants are one of the most popular houseplants because they are so resilient and easy to grow but do spider plants need fertilizer? If so, what type of fertilizer is best for spider plants and how do you fertilize spider plants?
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Schefflera is a common house and office plant. This tropical plant is native to Australia, New Guinea and Java, where it is an understory plant. The exotic foliage and epiphytic nature of the plant make it an interesting specimen to grow in warm season gardens. Can Schefflera plants grow outside? Sadly, the plant is not reliably hardy below United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11, but it will make an interesting container specimen that can be moved indoors.
Growing Schefflera Plants Outdoors
When the sun is shining, it is tempting to mimic some of our favorite tropical vacation spots in our landscapes. Adding tropical flair to the garden evokes the sights and sounds of a sultry, humid rainforest in an exotic locale. If you live in an appropriate zone, you can grow Shefflera outdoors year round.
Outdoor Schefflera care differs somewhat from indoor plant maintenance. Plants can get bigger in ground and may need supplemental support and nutrition as well as a regular watering schedule, but Schefflera plant care outside is low maintenance compared to many landscape plants. Choose a location with partial to full shade or even full sun when growing Schefflera plants outdoors. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost, leaf litter or other organic amendments. Remember, in its native range the plant would be growing in the humus rich soil that is nurtured by a constant supply of over story leaves, animal droppings and constant moisture. It is necessary to duplicate that rich soil as much as you can for best Schefflera growth.
Apparently, some Schefflera plants can tolerate zone 9b but will require a sheltered location, and in ground plants may die back. In other zones, you can use Schefflera as an annual foliage plant or keep it in a container and move indoors if cold temperatures arrive. Schefflera plants are common in southern California, Florida, and in places like Phoenix. The plants need a high humidity environment to produce the bright red flowers, so most regions cannot expect blooms, but the attractive foliage will provide a tropical foil for other plants.
Care for Outdoor Schefflera Plants
Schefflera plant care outside is not a lot different from indoor houseplant care. Over time, the tree will drop its leaves as it produces new ones. These take quite a while to break down and should be moved away from the root zone so insects and pests don’t have a convenient hiding place. Plants tend to dry out more quickly and they are more exposed to pests and diseases. Keep your Schefflera moderately moist and watch for mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Keep the leaves rinsed free of dust and debris. Staking or support may be required for good care for outdoor Schefflera plants. Be careful where you install Shefflera, as the roots are dense and strong and can damage driveways and foundations over time. For good outdoor Schefflera care, some gardeners recommend topping the plant when it grows tall. This forces it to produce a denser form and branching. If your plant gets flowers, you may want to remove them in areas such as Florida, where the plant easily naturalizes itself. Simply remove the flowers before seed is mature. With a little protection and forethought, Schefflera can make an excellent addition to the landscape for years.
Growing Schefflera Plants Outdoors
When the sun is shining, it is tempting to mimic some of our favorite tropical vacation spots in our landscapes. Adding tropical flair to the garden evokes the sights and sounds of a sultry, humid rainforest in an exotic locale. If you live in an appropriate zone, you can grow Shefflera outdoors year round.
Outdoor Schefflera care differs somewhat from indoor plant maintenance. Plants can get bigger in ground and may need supplemental support and nutrition as well as a regular watering schedule, but Schefflera plant care outside is low maintenance compared to many landscape plants. Choose a location with partial to full shade or even full sun when growing Schefflera plants outdoors. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost, leaf litter or other organic amendments. Remember, in its native range the plant would be growing in the humus rich soil that is nurtured by a constant supply of over story leaves, animal droppings and constant moisture. It is necessary to duplicate that rich soil as much as you can for best Schefflera growth.
Apparently, some Schefflera plants can tolerate zone 9b but will require a sheltered location, and in ground plants may die back. In other zones, you can use Schefflera as an annual foliage plant or keep it in a container and move indoors if cold temperatures arrive. Schefflera plants are common in southern California, Florida, and in places like Phoenix. The plants need a high humidity environment to produce the bright red flowers, so most regions cannot expect blooms, but the attractive foliage will provide a tropical foil for other plants.
Care for Outdoor Schefflera Plants
Schefflera plant care outside is not a lot different from indoor houseplant care. Over time, the tree will drop its leaves as it produces new ones. These take quite a while to break down and should be moved away from the root zone so insects and pests don’t have a convenient hiding place. Plants tend to dry out more quickly and they are more exposed to pests and diseases. Keep your Schefflera moderately moist and watch for mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Keep the leaves rinsed free of dust and debris. Staking or support may be required for good care for outdoor Schefflera plants. Be careful where you install Shefflera, as the roots are dense and strong and can damage driveways and foundations over time. For good outdoor Schefflera care, some gardeners recommend topping the plant when it grows tall. This forces it to produce a denser form and branching. If your plant gets flowers, you may want to remove them in areas such as Florida, where the plant easily naturalizes itself. Simply remove the flowers before seed is mature. With a little protection and forethought, Schefflera can make an excellent addition to the landscape for years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
I received a Kalanchoe as a gift plant this summer and I am now struggling to get it to bloom anew. Kalanchoe is an African native that has become a common house guest in North American homes. These plants require low light conditions to force budding. Ideally, the plant should experience 14 hours of lightless conditions to promote budding and bloom. Getting Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a bit of a rest period for the plant, correct lighting and some good fertilizer to fuel the process. A few tips on how to make a Kalanchoe rebloom will ensure success and a beautiful flowering houseplant in winter. 
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Pet dogs and cats tend to get into things they shouldn't, whether indoors or out. Among the most unnerving concerns is knowing which plants in the yard or house are toxic to your furry companions. In the United States, native orchids grow outdoors in sunny fields and woodlands and in shade gardens. A wide array of tropical orchids are also grown as houseplants, and also used as cut flowers in bouquets. Generally speaking, orchids are not poisonous to cats or dogs.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月09日
Despite recent happenings, my house plants are virtually unaffected and growing well, aside from my cats getting to their leaves 😲
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas Cacti are notoriously difficult to root. This article might help you in rooting pieces for new plants or just rooting another in the same pot with the parent plant.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
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求助
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月01日
My house plant put off this tight spiral, any ideas on what the plant is or why it's doing this?
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Abby Gill：I'm not entirely sure, but it may be a new stem and leaf. I'd watch it and see if it starts unfolding.
