文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月16日
Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a weed-like perennial flower that grows from rhizomatous roots and is also known as bitter buttons, cow bitter, and golden buttons. While now considered invasive in North America, at one time the plant was an important culinary herb in Europe. Given its pedigree in the European tradition, it is not surprising that tansy flowers were soon brought to the New World by American colonists and granted a position of garden prominence. From there, however, it soon naturalized into surrounding areas and is now viewed as a noxious weed over large areas of the United States.1
The name is derived from the Greek athanatos, meaning immortality, either because it is long-lived or because tansy was used for embalming in ancient times. In Greek mythology, Zeus was said to have made Ganymede immortal by giving the him tansy on Mount Olympus. Now, however, tansy has been listed by watchdog groups as one of the worst invasive plants in North America.2
Tansy can be identified by its aromatic, fern-like foliage, and bright yellow button-like flowers that appear in flat-topped clusters in summer. The leaves bear a similarity to yarrow, which is also a member of the Asteraceae family of plants.
Botanical Name Tanacetum vulgare
Common Names Common tansy, bitter buttons, cow bitter, golden buttons
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flowering plant
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall, 12- to 18-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained, fertile soil
Soil pH 4.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time July and August
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Temperate regions of Europe and Asia, naturalized over much of North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and livestock.
How to Care for Common Tansy
Common tansy is a low-maintenance plant that requires very little care on the part of the gardener. Although it is considered an invasive plant, it does have its uses. When properly harvested and dried, the bright yellow button flowers produce a soft yellow dye. The plant's history as a strewing herb still bears out today as Common Tansy will repel flies and other pesky insects. Additionally, tansy flowers add potassium to soil and attract an important beneficial insect, the ladybug.2
If you're considering growing tansy flowers, make sure to clip off the spent flowers to prevent this troublesome plant from self-seeding. Keep in mind that the sale of these "noxious-weed seeds" are prohibited in Montana and Wyoming.3 The plant itself is prohibited to be sold or grown in Colorado, Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, parts of Washington state, and the Alberta and British Columbia provinces in Canada.
Light
Tansy flowers grow best in full sun, though they can tolerate part shade.
Soil
This perennial plant prefers well-drained, fertile garden soil but tolerate almost any soil conditions.
Water
Tansy can tolerate drought and does not need regular watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Tansy flowers are winter hardy to minus-40 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves will turn brown, curl, and dry up in extreme prolonged heat.4
Pruning Common Tansy
One of the best methods for keeping tansy under control is deadheading the flowers. Cut the foliage and flower stems to the ground every year to keep growth in check. Tansy roots go deep so be prepared to do some heavy shovel lifting if you want to remove the plant completely. You can also try spot spraying with a broad spectrum weed killer. Always use caution, and wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles, when using chemical herbicides.
Common Tansy vs. Tansy Ragwort
Do not confuse this plant with "tansy ragwort" (Senecio jacobea), which is a different plant altogether. Tansy ragwort is a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial that is also considered a noxious weed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Since the heavily scented leaves of common tansy act as insect repellent, the plant is not vulnerable to pests or disease. Unfortunately, unless measures are undertaken to control its spread, the plant itself could turn out to be the biggest problem.
The name is derived from the Greek athanatos, meaning immortality, either because it is long-lived or because tansy was used for embalming in ancient times. In Greek mythology, Zeus was said to have made Ganymede immortal by giving the him tansy on Mount Olympus. Now, however, tansy has been listed by watchdog groups as one of the worst invasive plants in North America.2
Tansy can be identified by its aromatic, fern-like foliage, and bright yellow button-like flowers that appear in flat-topped clusters in summer. The leaves bear a similarity to yarrow, which is also a member of the Asteraceae family of plants.
Botanical Name Tanacetum vulgare
Common Names Common tansy, bitter buttons, cow bitter, golden buttons
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flowering plant
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall, 12- to 18-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained, fertile soil
Soil pH 4.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time July and August
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Temperate regions of Europe and Asia, naturalized over much of North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and livestock.
How to Care for Common Tansy
Common tansy is a low-maintenance plant that requires very little care on the part of the gardener. Although it is considered an invasive plant, it does have its uses. When properly harvested and dried, the bright yellow button flowers produce a soft yellow dye. The plant's history as a strewing herb still bears out today as Common Tansy will repel flies and other pesky insects. Additionally, tansy flowers add potassium to soil and attract an important beneficial insect, the ladybug.2
If you're considering growing tansy flowers, make sure to clip off the spent flowers to prevent this troublesome plant from self-seeding. Keep in mind that the sale of these "noxious-weed seeds" are prohibited in Montana and Wyoming.3 The plant itself is prohibited to be sold or grown in Colorado, Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, parts of Washington state, and the Alberta and British Columbia provinces in Canada.
Light
Tansy flowers grow best in full sun, though they can tolerate part shade.
Soil
This perennial plant prefers well-drained, fertile garden soil but tolerate almost any soil conditions.
Water
Tansy can tolerate drought and does not need regular watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Tansy flowers are winter hardy to minus-40 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves will turn brown, curl, and dry up in extreme prolonged heat.4
Pruning Common Tansy
One of the best methods for keeping tansy under control is deadheading the flowers. Cut the foliage and flower stems to the ground every year to keep growth in check. Tansy roots go deep so be prepared to do some heavy shovel lifting if you want to remove the plant completely. You can also try spot spraying with a broad spectrum weed killer. Always use caution, and wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles, when using chemical herbicides.
Common Tansy vs. Tansy Ragwort
Do not confuse this plant with "tansy ragwort" (Senecio jacobea), which is a different plant altogether. Tansy ragwort is a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial that is also considered a noxious weed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Since the heavily scented leaves of common tansy act as insect repellent, the plant is not vulnerable to pests or disease. Unfortunately, unless measures are undertaken to control its spread, the plant itself could turn out to be the biggest problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月09日
Red Campion (Silene dioica) is an easy-to-grow herbaceous perennial. A native to Europe, and viewed as a weed in many native areas, this plant's commonly known cultivar in the United States is Clifford Moor1, although other varieties of Silene, such as Silene acaulis, Silene stellata, Silene caroliniana, and Silene coronaria, thrive throughout the U.S.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月23日
Butterfly weed is a must-have plant for gardeners looking to coax the namesake winged insects into the garden. This clump-forming perennial grows from tuberous roots to a height of 1 to 2 feet and is characterized by glossy-green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms that are rich with nectar and pollen. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is generally planted in late spring after the soil is workable. It is fairly slow to become established and may take as much as three years before it flowers. When it finally does flower, its clusters of bright orange-yellow flowers will display from late spring until late summer. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it does produce the characteristic seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
When shopping for new plants, many gardeners keep an eye out for something pretty to grow in that shady area of the garden. Found in nature growing on the forest floor, horny goat weed (Epimedium spp) is worth considering, for its bronze and red-tipped foliage as well as its winter hardiness. Also known as bishop's hat and barrenwort, horny goat weed is a perennial flowering plant, hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月03日
If you come across a patch of wild garlic (Allium vineale), harvesting the perennial typically only requires a digging tool and a healthy sense of smell. The wild version -- which some people treat as a weed -- grows in many temperate parts of the United States and tends to be a bit tougher in texture than the garlic you might grow in your garden, writes Daniel McGrath of the Oregon State University Extension Service. It's edible, but you'll need to use caution to ensure you're harvesting the right plant.
How to Spot It
Identify wild garlic, hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9, by its thin, wax-like green leaves. It looks a lot like wild onion (Allium canadense) -- another edible perennial that's hardy from USDA zones 4 to 8 -- but when you break off a stalk of wild garlic, you should detect a strong odor of garlic, much like the standard garden variety. Both plants are winter perennials that will send up green shoots in the fall, after warm weather has passed. With wild garlic, the stalks sticking up from the ground are hollow, whereas wild onion produces flat stalks.
Watch out for false garlic (Nothoscordum bivalve), hardy from USDA zones 6 to 11 and also called Crow poison, which looks very similar to wild garlic but doesn't give off the garlicky smell when the stalk is broken or crushed. False garlic may be poisonous, so if you're not absolutely sure you are working with wild garlic, don't harvest it. Although extension experts tend to agree wild garlic is edible, large doses could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. Ingest wild garlic only in small quantities.
Large doses of wild garlic could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service.
Harvest Techniques
Harvest wild garlic in the late spring before the weather gets hot and the leaves and stalks of the wild garlic begin to die back. Harvesting during that time will allow you to get the largest bulbs because they thrive in cold weather and use that time to grow. Ideally, harvest soon after a rain because that will ensure the ground is as soft as possible for digging.
Dig a few inches around the plant and several inches down with a trowel or shovel until you reach the bulbs. Gently pull the bulbs from the ground and wash the entire plant with clean water before eating the bulbs and stalks. Remove any brown hulls around the bulbs. As you'll discover, the green stalks also have a garlicky flavor.
How to Spot It
Identify wild garlic, hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9, by its thin, wax-like green leaves. It looks a lot like wild onion (Allium canadense) -- another edible perennial that's hardy from USDA zones 4 to 8 -- but when you break off a stalk of wild garlic, you should detect a strong odor of garlic, much like the standard garden variety. Both plants are winter perennials that will send up green shoots in the fall, after warm weather has passed. With wild garlic, the stalks sticking up from the ground are hollow, whereas wild onion produces flat stalks.
Watch out for false garlic (Nothoscordum bivalve), hardy from USDA zones 6 to 11 and also called Crow poison, which looks very similar to wild garlic but doesn't give off the garlicky smell when the stalk is broken or crushed. False garlic may be poisonous, so if you're not absolutely sure you are working with wild garlic, don't harvest it. Although extension experts tend to agree wild garlic is edible, large doses could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. Ingest wild garlic only in small quantities.
Large doses of wild garlic could cause problems on account of the sulfoxides in the plant, according to the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service.
Harvest Techniques
Harvest wild garlic in the late spring before the weather gets hot and the leaves and stalks of the wild garlic begin to die back. Harvesting during that time will allow you to get the largest bulbs because they thrive in cold weather and use that time to grow. Ideally, harvest soon after a rain because that will ensure the ground is as soft as possible for digging.
Dig a few inches around the plant and several inches down with a trowel or shovel until you reach the bulbs. Gently pull the bulbs from the ground and wash the entire plant with clean water before eating the bulbs and stalks. Remove any brown hulls around the bulbs. As you'll discover, the green stalks also have a garlicky flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Scientific Name
Hypericum perforatum L.
Common Names
Common St. John’s Wort, St. John’s Wort, Goatweed, Klamath Weed, Klamathweed, Perforate St. John’s Wort, Racecourseweed, Tipton’s Weed, Tiptonweed, Rosin Rose, Chase-Devil
Synonyms
Hypericum assurgens, Hypericum deidesheimense, Hypericum lineolatum, Hypericum marylandicum
Scientific Classification
Family: Hypericaceae
Genus: Hypericum
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Between late spring and early to mid summer
Description
Hypericum perforatum has erect stems which can grow up to 100 inches (2.5 m) of height. Leaves are small, the size of up to 1.6 inches (4 cm), egg-shaped, opposite and stemless, full of small and translucent dots or glands filled with essential oils. The flowers appear in broad cymes at the ends of the upper branches, between late spring and early to mid summer.
How to Grow and Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
Origin
Native to temperate and subtropical regions of Europe, Turkey, Ukraine, Russia, Middle East, India, and China.
Hypericum perforatum L.
Common Names
Common St. John’s Wort, St. John’s Wort, Goatweed, Klamath Weed, Klamathweed, Perforate St. John’s Wort, Racecourseweed, Tipton’s Weed, Tiptonweed, Rosin Rose, Chase-Devil
Synonyms
Hypericum assurgens, Hypericum deidesheimense, Hypericum lineolatum, Hypericum marylandicum
Scientific Classification
Family: Hypericaceae
Genus: Hypericum
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Between late spring and early to mid summer
Description
Hypericum perforatum has erect stems which can grow up to 100 inches (2.5 m) of height. Leaves are small, the size of up to 1.6 inches (4 cm), egg-shaped, opposite and stemless, full of small and translucent dots or glands filled with essential oils. The flowers appear in broad cymes at the ends of the upper branches, between late spring and early to mid summer.
How to Grow and Care
If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations.
Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
Origin
Native to temperate and subtropical regions of Europe, Turkey, Ukraine, Russia, Middle East, India, and China.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Scientific Name
Cheiridopsis denticulata (Haw.) N.E.Br.
Common Names
Carpet Weed, Lobster Claws
Synonyms
Mesembryanthemum denticulatum (basionym), Cheiridopsis candidissima, Cheiridopsis denticulata var. denticulata, Cheiridopsis inconspicua, Cheiridopsis littlewoodii, Cheiridopsis macrophylla, Cheiridopsis vanheerdei, Mesembryanthemum candidissimum, Mesembryanthemum denticulatum var. candidissimum
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Genus: Cheiridopsis
Description
Cheiridopsis denticulata is a perennial, compact, cushion-forming succulent plant, up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and up to 12 inches (30 cm) across. Leaves are grey-white, up to 2.6 inches (6,5 cm) long, up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide, simple or somewhat toothed on the keel from which its name derives. Flowers are cream to pale yellow, often violet to red at tips and outside and up to 3.2 inches (8 cm) in diameter.
How to Grow and Care
The basics of Mesemb care are very simple, with free-draining soil, plenty of sun and ventilation, and regular light watering in the right season. Yet the difficulties are endless, trying to adapt to the Mesembs’ own adaptability and to follow their growth habits in your particular conditions.
Mesembs require a loam-based compost with the addition of extra drainage material such as horticultural grit or perlite. They all like good light conditions and plenty of ventilation.
Some are relatively cold-hardy and can even survive mild winters outside. Most will survive temperatures down to freezing point. There are some Mesembs which begin to grow in the autumn as the temperature drops and the days get shorter.
Because different genera within the Mesemb family have different growing conditions, care mast be taken with watering. Some genera will benefit from a light spray water to prevent shrivelling during their dormant period.
Cheiridopsis denticulata (Haw.) N.E.Br.
Common Names
Carpet Weed, Lobster Claws
Synonyms
Mesembryanthemum denticulatum (basionym), Cheiridopsis candidissima, Cheiridopsis denticulata var. denticulata, Cheiridopsis inconspicua, Cheiridopsis littlewoodii, Cheiridopsis macrophylla, Cheiridopsis vanheerdei, Mesembryanthemum candidissimum, Mesembryanthemum denticulatum var. candidissimum
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Genus: Cheiridopsis
Description
Cheiridopsis denticulata is a perennial, compact, cushion-forming succulent plant, up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and up to 12 inches (30 cm) across. Leaves are grey-white, up to 2.6 inches (6,5 cm) long, up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide, simple or somewhat toothed on the keel from which its name derives. Flowers are cream to pale yellow, often violet to red at tips and outside and up to 3.2 inches (8 cm) in diameter.
How to Grow and Care
The basics of Mesemb care are very simple, with free-draining soil, plenty of sun and ventilation, and regular light watering in the right season. Yet the difficulties are endless, trying to adapt to the Mesembs’ own adaptability and to follow their growth habits in your particular conditions.
Mesembs require a loam-based compost with the addition of extra drainage material such as horticultural grit or perlite. They all like good light conditions and plenty of ventilation.
Some are relatively cold-hardy and can even survive mild winters outside. Most will survive temperatures down to freezing point. There are some Mesembs which begin to grow in the autumn as the temperature drops and the days get shorter.
Because different genera within the Mesemb family have different growing conditions, care mast be taken with watering. Some genera will benefit from a light spray water to prevent shrivelling during their dormant period.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Scientific Name
Titanopsis calcarea (Marloth) Schwantes
Common Names
Concrete Leaf, Jewel Weed, Carpet Leaf, Sheep’s Tongue, Living Stone
Synonyms
Titanopsis calcareum
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Subfamily: Ruschioideae
Genus: Titanopsis
Description
Titanopsis calcarea (Concrete Leaf) is a mat forming succulent with basal rosettes up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Fleshy leaves, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long with truncate tip, usually grey or blue-green, densely covered at the apex with whitish, creamy grey, ochre, red or bluish rough tubercles. Yellow to orange flowers, 0.8 inch (2 cm) in diameter.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9a to 11b: from 20 °F (−6.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
Titanopsis calcarea (Marloth) Schwantes
Common Names
Concrete Leaf, Jewel Weed, Carpet Leaf, Sheep’s Tongue, Living Stone
Synonyms
Titanopsis calcareum
Scientific Classification
Family: Aizoaceae
Subfamily: Ruschioideae
Genus: Titanopsis
Description
Titanopsis calcarea (Concrete Leaf) is a mat forming succulent with basal rosettes up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Fleshy leaves, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long with truncate tip, usually grey or blue-green, densely covered at the apex with whitish, creamy grey, ochre, red or bluish rough tubercles. Yellow to orange flowers, 0.8 inch (2 cm) in diameter.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9a to 11b: from 20 °F (−6.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Papaver rhoeas L.
Common Names
Common Poppy, Corn Poppy, Corn Rose, Field Poppy, Flanders Poppy, Red Poppy, Red Weed, Shirley’s Poppy, Yu Mei Ren (Transcribed Chinese), Coquelicot (French), Klatsch-Mohn (German), Hina-Geshi (Japanese Rōmaji), Gaeyanggwibi (Transcribed Korean), Amapola (Spanish), Kornvallmo (Swedish), Klatschmohn (German); Közönséges Pipacs (Hungarian); Mak Vlčí (Slovakian)
Synonyms
Papaver commutatum, Papaver insignitum, Papaver intermedium, Papaver rhoeas var. strigosum, Papaver rhoeas subsp. strigosum, Papaver roubiaei, Papaver strigosum, Papaver tenuissimum, Papaver trilobum, Papaver tumidulum
Scientific Classification
Family: Papaveraceae
Subfamily: Papaveroideae
Tribe: Papavereae
Genus: Papaver
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Spring to beginning of autumn
Description
Papaver rhoeas is a variable, erect annual, up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) tall, forming a long-lived soil seed bank that can germinate when the soil is disturbed. In the northern hemisphere it generally flowers in late spring, but if the weather is warm enough other flowers frequently appear at the beginning of autumn. The flowers are large and showy, up to 4 inches (10 cm) across, with four petals that are vivid red, most commonly with a black spot at their base. The flower stem is usually covered with coarse hairs that are held at right angles to the surface. The capsules are hairless, obovoid in shape, less than twice as tall as they are wide, with a stigma at least as wide as the capsule.
How to Grow and Care
Plant Corn Poppy seeds directly on top of cultivated soil. In mild climates, plant the seeds in late fall or early spring when soil temperatures are between 60 and 70 ºF (15 and 21 ºC). Corn Poppies thrive in full sunlight and rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is poor, incorporate 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost or manure prior to planting.
Water Corn Poppies when the top of the soil feels dry. Saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow waterings promote a shallow root system. For best results, water by hand with a hose or use a drip system to keep the foliage as dry as possible. If you use a sprinkler, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry before evening. Soggy soil and damp foliage place the plant at risk of rot and fungal diseases.
Spread 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of mulch around the plants in the spring. An organic mulch such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings keeps the roots cool, conserves moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
Apply a balanced liquid or granular fertilizer if newly emerging foliage has a yellowish appearance. Use the fertilizer in accordance with label recommendations. As a general rule, Poppies require no supplemental fertilization if granular fertilizer or compost are incorporated into the soil at planting time.
Origin
Native to Europe.
Papaver rhoeas L.
Common Names
Common Poppy, Corn Poppy, Corn Rose, Field Poppy, Flanders Poppy, Red Poppy, Red Weed, Shirley’s Poppy, Yu Mei Ren (Transcribed Chinese), Coquelicot (French), Klatsch-Mohn (German), Hina-Geshi (Japanese Rōmaji), Gaeyanggwibi (Transcribed Korean), Amapola (Spanish), Kornvallmo (Swedish), Klatschmohn (German); Közönséges Pipacs (Hungarian); Mak Vlčí (Slovakian)
Synonyms
Papaver commutatum, Papaver insignitum, Papaver intermedium, Papaver rhoeas var. strigosum, Papaver rhoeas subsp. strigosum, Papaver roubiaei, Papaver strigosum, Papaver tenuissimum, Papaver trilobum, Papaver tumidulum
Scientific Classification
Family: Papaveraceae
Subfamily: Papaveroideae
Tribe: Papavereae
Genus: Papaver
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Spring to beginning of autumn
Description
Papaver rhoeas is a variable, erect annual, up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) tall, forming a long-lived soil seed bank that can germinate when the soil is disturbed. In the northern hemisphere it generally flowers in late spring, but if the weather is warm enough other flowers frequently appear at the beginning of autumn. The flowers are large and showy, up to 4 inches (10 cm) across, with four petals that are vivid red, most commonly with a black spot at their base. The flower stem is usually covered with coarse hairs that are held at right angles to the surface. The capsules are hairless, obovoid in shape, less than twice as tall as they are wide, with a stigma at least as wide as the capsule.
How to Grow and Care
Plant Corn Poppy seeds directly on top of cultivated soil. In mild climates, plant the seeds in late fall or early spring when soil temperatures are between 60 and 70 ºF (15 and 21 ºC). Corn Poppies thrive in full sunlight and rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is poor, incorporate 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost or manure prior to planting.
Water Corn Poppies when the top of the soil feels dry. Saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow waterings promote a shallow root system. For best results, water by hand with a hose or use a drip system to keep the foliage as dry as possible. If you use a sprinkler, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry before evening. Soggy soil and damp foliage place the plant at risk of rot and fungal diseases.
Spread 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of mulch around the plants in the spring. An organic mulch such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings keeps the roots cool, conserves moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.
Apply a balanced liquid or granular fertilizer if newly emerging foliage has a yellowish appearance. Use the fertilizer in accordance with label recommendations. As a general rule, Poppies require no supplemental fertilization if granular fertilizer or compost are incorporated into the soil at planting time.
Origin
Native to Europe.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum), also known as Gravel Root, is a large clumping perennial that injects architectural interest into the late summer landscape. This robust wildflower has multiples of sturdy stems with whorls of attractive foliage. In mid-summer, plants are topped with a frothy crown of rounded rosy pink flower clusters. The vanilla scented blooms are frequented by butterflies.
It is native to northwest, eastern and central North America. Many people think of Sweet Joe Pye Weed as a weed found in the ditches along the side of the road. But is a stunning perennial in the back of a border or cottage garden, and particularly in meadows or native plant gardens. It just needs space to grow as the stand can reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m) and widths of up to 5 feet (1.5 m). It also works great in rain gardens, or even at the edge of ponds or streams.
In the Language of Flowers, Sweet Joe Pye Weed is said to mean Delay. It is sometimes cultivated and has escaped from cultivation in parts of New Zealand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Medicinal Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks.
The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention. The common name Gravel Root comes from the plant being used as a diuretic used to treat urinary infections and stones. The tops of the plant were steeped and then inhaled to treat colds. Fresh leaves were made into a poultice to treat burns.
The flower tops were even used as a good luck charm. Some Native American tribes still consider Joe Pye Weed to be an aphrodisiac.
It is native to northwest, eastern and central North America. Many people think of Sweet Joe Pye Weed as a weed found in the ditches along the side of the road. But is a stunning perennial in the back of a border or cottage garden, and particularly in meadows or native plant gardens. It just needs space to grow as the stand can reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m) and widths of up to 5 feet (1.5 m). It also works great in rain gardens, or even at the edge of ponds or streams.
In the Language of Flowers, Sweet Joe Pye Weed is said to mean Delay. It is sometimes cultivated and has escaped from cultivation in parts of New Zealand.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Medicinal Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks.
The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention. The common name Gravel Root comes from the plant being used as a diuretic used to treat urinary infections and stones. The tops of the plant were steeped and then inhaled to treat colds. Fresh leaves were made into a poultice to treat burns.
The flower tops were even used as a good luck charm. Some Native American tribes still consider Joe Pye Weed to be an aphrodisiac.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Most gardeners consider Dandelions a weed and are looking for information on how to remove it from their garden. But, once you get to know a little more about this nutritious plant, you may find yourself also wondering how to grow and harvest Dandelion plants for yourself.
While Dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamine, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store.
It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy.
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard.
Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest.
The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest Dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves.
You can keep your Dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.
Harvesting
Much like other greens, Dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference.
Another benefit of growing Dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year.
Never harvest Dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
While Dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamine, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store.
It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy.
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard.
Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest.
The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest Dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves.
You can keep your Dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.
Harvesting
Much like other greens, Dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference.
Another benefit of growing Dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year.
Never harvest Dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Eutrochium purpureum (L.) E. E. Lamont
Common Names
Kidney Root, Sweetscented Joe Pie Weed, Sweet Joe Pye Weed, Gravel Root, Trumpet Weed, Green Stem Joe Pye Weed, Joe Pye, Joe Pyeweed, Marsh Milkweed, Queen of the Meadow, Sweet Joe Pyeweed, Sweet Scent Joe Pyeweed
Synonyms
Cunigunda purpurea, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus var. purpureus, Eupatorium falcatum, Eupatorium fuscorubrum, Eupatorium harnedii, Eupatorium holzingeri, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. purpureum, Eupatorium purpureum f. purpureum, Eupatorium trifoliatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. trifoliatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Purplish-pink
Bloom Time: Mid to late summer
Description
Eutrochium purpureum is a clump forming perennial, up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. The stems are upright, thick, round, and purple, with whorls of leaves at each node. Leaves are lance-shaped, sometimes purple-tinged, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a somewhat wrinkled texture. The flowers are tiny, vanilla-scented, dull pinkish-purple in color, in large, terminal, domed, compound inflorescences, Plants bloom in mid to late summer.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems. Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off. If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks. The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention.
Origin
Native to northwest, eastern and central North America.
Eutrochium purpureum (L.) E. E. Lamont
Common Names
Kidney Root, Sweetscented Joe Pie Weed, Sweet Joe Pye Weed, Gravel Root, Trumpet Weed, Green Stem Joe Pye Weed, Joe Pye, Joe Pyeweed, Marsh Milkweed, Queen of the Meadow, Sweet Joe Pyeweed, Sweet Scent Joe Pyeweed
Synonyms
Cunigunda purpurea, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus var. purpureus, Eupatorium falcatum, Eupatorium fuscorubrum, Eupatorium harnedii, Eupatorium holzingeri, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. purpureum, Eupatorium purpureum f. purpureum, Eupatorium trifoliatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. trifoliatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Purplish-pink
Bloom Time: Mid to late summer
Description
Eutrochium purpureum is a clump forming perennial, up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. The stems are upright, thick, round, and purple, with whorls of leaves at each node. Leaves are lance-shaped, sometimes purple-tinged, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a somewhat wrinkled texture. The flowers are tiny, vanilla-scented, dull pinkish-purple in color, in large, terminal, domed, compound inflorescences, Plants bloom in mid to late summer.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems. Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off. If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks. The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention.
Origin
Native to northwest, eastern and central North America.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Eutrochium maculatum (L.) E.E.Lamont
Common Names
Spotted Joe-Pye Weed
Synonyms
Eupatoriadelphus maculatus var. maculatus, Eupatorium maculatum var. maculatum, Eupatorium purpureum var. maculatum, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. maculatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. maculatum, Eutrochium maculatum var. maculatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Rose-purple
Bloom Time: Late summer
Description
Eutrochium maculatum is an herbaceous perennial, growing up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall. Stems are sometimes completely purple, sometimes green with purple spots. One plant can produce numerous rose-purple flower heads in late summer, each head with 8-22 disc flowers but no ray flowers. The binomial name “maculatum”, meaning spotted, refers to the purple spots on the stem.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Origin
Native to North America.
Eutrochium maculatum (L.) E.E.Lamont
Common Names
Spotted Joe-Pye Weed
Synonyms
Eupatoriadelphus maculatus var. maculatus, Eupatorium maculatum var. maculatum, Eupatorium purpureum var. maculatum, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. maculatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. maculatum, Eutrochium maculatum var. maculatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Rose-purple
Bloom Time: Late summer
Description
Eutrochium maculatum is an herbaceous perennial, growing up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall. Stems are sometimes completely purple, sometimes green with purple spots. One plant can produce numerous rose-purple flower heads in late summer, each head with 8-22 disc flowers but no ray flowers. The binomial name “maculatum”, meaning spotted, refers to the purple spots on the stem.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems.
Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Origin
Native to North America.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Mimosa pudica L.
Common Names
Sensitive Plant, Common Sensitive Plant, Sleepy Plant, Dormilones, Touch-me-not, Shy Plant, Shame Bush, Shame Face, Shame Lady, Shame Plant, Shame Weed, Sensitive Grass
Synonyms
Mimosa pudica var. pudica, Mimosa hispidula, Eburnax pudica
Scientific Classification
Family: Fabaceae
Subfamily: Mimosoideae
Tribe: Mimoseae
Genus: Mimosa
Flower
Color: Pale pink or purple
Bloom Time: Mid summer
Description
Mimosa pudica is a creeping annual or perennial herb. The stem is erect in young plants, but becomes creeping or trailing with age. It can hang very low and become floppy. The stem is slender, branching, and sparsely to densely prickly, growing up to 5 feet (1.5 m) long. The leaves are bipinnately compound, with one or two pinnae pairs, and 10–26 leaflets per pinna. The petioles are also prickly. Pedunculate (stalked) pale pink or purple flower heads arise from the leaf axils in mid summer with more and more flowers as the plant gets older. The globose to ovoid heads are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter (excluding the stamens). On close examination, it is seen that the floret petals are red in their upper part and the filaments are pink to lavender.
How to Grow and Care
Mimosa is capable of growing in some really hardy zones and can survive in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Celsius). Although it grows exceptionally well in bright and full sunlight, it can grow in partially shaded areas as well. The plant can grow on a large variety of soil types like clay, loam, and sandy soil. The soil should ideally be acidic but a mild alkaline soil would suffice too. The plant is known to survive in droughts and hence requires little watering.
The ideal time for planting a Mimosa is during the spring on a well drained soil. As these flowering plants prefer soil which is acidic in nature, it is advised that you add peat moss and composted leaves at regular intervals to maintain its acidic properties. Water the plant and soil enough, but not so much as to saturate it. Keep the area under the tree clean, by sweeping away the fallen flowers and seed pods. Pruning of the branches should ideally be done during fall. This tree often tends to get infested by pests like webworm caterpillars. If affected, the branches should be removed as soon as possible to prevent any collateral damage to the plant. If not taken care of, the need to spray insecticides might arise.
Origin
Native to South America and Central America, but is now a pantropical weed. It can also be found in Asia in countries such as Bangladesh, Thailand, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Japan and Sri Lanka.
Mimosa pudica L.
Common Names
Sensitive Plant, Common Sensitive Plant, Sleepy Plant, Dormilones, Touch-me-not, Shy Plant, Shame Bush, Shame Face, Shame Lady, Shame Plant, Shame Weed, Sensitive Grass
Synonyms
Mimosa pudica var. pudica, Mimosa hispidula, Eburnax pudica
Scientific Classification
Family: Fabaceae
Subfamily: Mimosoideae
Tribe: Mimoseae
Genus: Mimosa
Flower
Color: Pale pink or purple
Bloom Time: Mid summer
Description
Mimosa pudica is a creeping annual or perennial herb. The stem is erect in young plants, but becomes creeping or trailing with age. It can hang very low and become floppy. The stem is slender, branching, and sparsely to densely prickly, growing up to 5 feet (1.5 m) long. The leaves are bipinnately compound, with one or two pinnae pairs, and 10–26 leaflets per pinna. The petioles are also prickly. Pedunculate (stalked) pale pink or purple flower heads arise from the leaf axils in mid summer with more and more flowers as the plant gets older. The globose to ovoid heads are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter (excluding the stamens). On close examination, it is seen that the floret petals are red in their upper part and the filaments are pink to lavender.
How to Grow and Care
Mimosa is capable of growing in some really hardy zones and can survive in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Celsius). Although it grows exceptionally well in bright and full sunlight, it can grow in partially shaded areas as well. The plant can grow on a large variety of soil types like clay, loam, and sandy soil. The soil should ideally be acidic but a mild alkaline soil would suffice too. The plant is known to survive in droughts and hence requires little watering.
The ideal time for planting a Mimosa is during the spring on a well drained soil. As these flowering plants prefer soil which is acidic in nature, it is advised that you add peat moss and composted leaves at regular intervals to maintain its acidic properties. Water the plant and soil enough, but not so much as to saturate it. Keep the area under the tree clean, by sweeping away the fallen flowers and seed pods. Pruning of the branches should ideally be done during fall. This tree often tends to get infested by pests like webworm caterpillars. If affected, the branches should be removed as soon as possible to prevent any collateral damage to the plant. If not taken care of, the need to spray insecticides might arise.
Origin
Native to South America and Central America, but is now a pantropical weed. It can also be found in Asia in countries such as Bangladesh, Thailand, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Japan and Sri Lanka.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Matricaria discoidea DC.
Common Names
Pineapple Weed, Pineapple Chamomile, Wild Chamomile, Disc Mayweed, False Chamomile, Rayless Chamomile, Rounded Chamomile
Synonyms
Matricaria discoidea subsp. discoidea, Akylopsis suaveolens, Anthemis inconspicua, Cenocline pauciflora, Chamomilla discoidea, Chamomilla suaveolens, Chrysanthemum discodes, Matricaria graveolens
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Matricaria
Flower
Color: Yellowish-green
Bloom Time: March to September
Description
Matricaria discoidea is an annual plant with cone-shaped flower head, composed of dense-packed yellowish-green corollas, and lacking ray-florets. The leaves are pinnately dissected and sweet-scented when crushed. The plant grows up to 16 inches (40 cm) high. Flowerheads are produced from March to September.
How to Grow and Care
You can grow Chamomile herb in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. Chamomile grows best in cool conditions and should be planted in part shade, but will also grow full sun. The soil should be dry. Once your Chamomile is established, it needs very little care. Like most herbs, it grows best when it is not fussed over. Too much fertilizer will result in lots of weakly flavored foliage and few flowers. Chamomile is drought tolerant and only needs to be watered in times of prolonged drought.
Plant Chamomile in the spring from either seeds or plants. It’s easier to establish Chamomile herb in your garden from plants or divisions than from seeds, but growing Chamomile from seed is also relatively easy.
For the most part, Chamomile is not affected by many pests. It is often recommended as a companion plant to plant in the vegetable garden as its strong scent often keeps pests away.
Origin
Native to North America and Northeast Asia but which has become a cosmopolitan weed.
Matricaria discoidea DC.
Common Names
Pineapple Weed, Pineapple Chamomile, Wild Chamomile, Disc Mayweed, False Chamomile, Rayless Chamomile, Rounded Chamomile
Synonyms
Matricaria discoidea subsp. discoidea, Akylopsis suaveolens, Anthemis inconspicua, Cenocline pauciflora, Chamomilla discoidea, Chamomilla suaveolens, Chrysanthemum discodes, Matricaria graveolens
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Matricaria
Flower
Color: Yellowish-green
Bloom Time: March to September
Description
Matricaria discoidea is an annual plant with cone-shaped flower head, composed of dense-packed yellowish-green corollas, and lacking ray-florets. The leaves are pinnately dissected and sweet-scented when crushed. The plant grows up to 16 inches (40 cm) high. Flowerheads are produced from March to September.
How to Grow and Care
You can grow Chamomile herb in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. Chamomile grows best in cool conditions and should be planted in part shade, but will also grow full sun. The soil should be dry. Once your Chamomile is established, it needs very little care. Like most herbs, it grows best when it is not fussed over. Too much fertilizer will result in lots of weakly flavored foliage and few flowers. Chamomile is drought tolerant and only needs to be watered in times of prolonged drought.
Plant Chamomile in the spring from either seeds or plants. It’s easier to establish Chamomile herb in your garden from plants or divisions than from seeds, but growing Chamomile from seed is also relatively easy.
For the most part, Chamomile is not affected by many pests. It is often recommended as a companion plant to plant in the vegetable garden as its strong scent often keeps pests away.
Origin
Native to North America and Northeast Asia but which has become a cosmopolitan weed.
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