文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Cichorium intybus L.
Common Names
Chicory, Common Chicory, Blue Daisy, Blue Dandelion, Blue Sailors, Blue Weed, Bunk, Coffeeweed, Cornflower, Hendibeh, Horseweed, Ragged Sailors, Succory, Wild Bachelor’s Buttons, Wild Endive, Belgium Endive, Witloof
Synonyms
Cichorium balearicum, Cichorium byzantinum, Cichorium byzantinum, Cichorium caeruleum, Cichorium cicorea, Cichorium commune, Cichorium cicorea, Cichorium commune, Cichorium divaricatum, Cichorium glabratum, Cichorium glaucum, Cichorium hirsutum, Cichorium illyricum, Cichorium officinale
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Cichorioideae
Tribe: Cichorieae
Subtribe: Cichoriinae
Genus: Cichorium
Flower
Color: Blue
Bloom Time: July to October
Description
Cichorium intybus is a bushy, perennial plant. The stem is a groved, tough and more or less hairy, up to 40 inches (1 m) tall. Leaves are lanceolate, stalked, and unlobed. The flowers are usually bright blue, rarely white or pink, toothed at the ends, and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) wide. It flowers from July until October.
How to Grow and Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Origin
Native to Europe, and in North America and Australia.
Cichorium intybus L.
Common Names
Chicory, Common Chicory, Blue Daisy, Blue Dandelion, Blue Sailors, Blue Weed, Bunk, Coffeeweed, Cornflower, Hendibeh, Horseweed, Ragged Sailors, Succory, Wild Bachelor’s Buttons, Wild Endive, Belgium Endive, Witloof
Synonyms
Cichorium balearicum, Cichorium byzantinum, Cichorium byzantinum, Cichorium caeruleum, Cichorium cicorea, Cichorium commune, Cichorium cicorea, Cichorium commune, Cichorium divaricatum, Cichorium glabratum, Cichorium glaucum, Cichorium hirsutum, Cichorium illyricum, Cichorium officinale
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Cichorioideae
Tribe: Cichorieae
Subtribe: Cichoriinae
Genus: Cichorium
Flower
Color: Blue
Bloom Time: July to October
Description
Cichorium intybus is a bushy, perennial plant. The stem is a groved, tough and more or less hairy, up to 40 inches (1 m) tall. Leaves are lanceolate, stalked, and unlobed. The flowers are usually bright blue, rarely white or pink, toothed at the ends, and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) wide. It flowers from July until October.
How to Grow and Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Origin
Native to Europe, and in North America and Australia.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Crabgrass is an annual grassy lawn weed that spreads along the ground creating a dense mat that smothers desirable grasses. It was introduced from Eurasia and is widespread throughout the United States.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
There are three crabgrass species commonly found as weeds in lawns - hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis), southern crabgrass (Digitaria ciliaris) and smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). All three species are pale green, have a prostrate or ascending growth habit, and have flat 5-10 mm wide blades. The seed heads have 2-6 branches with 2 rows of seeds along each branch. Crabgrass may be found in a wide variety of landscape settings but grows best in full sun.
Life Cycle
Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass that overwinters as seeds and germinates when soil temperatures in mid spring consistently remain at 50 to 55 degrees for a number of days in a row. Seeds can continue to germinate throughout the summer if soil temperatures and moisture conditions are adequate. It grows during the heat of summer, sets seeds and is killed by the first frost.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques to keep lawns healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Cool season grasses fertilized in the fall and mid to late spring will go into mid-summer dormancy later and will compete better with the crabgrass.
2. Set the lawnmower at 3 inches high. Taller grass will shade the soil and decrease the germination rate of crabgrass seeds.
3. Pull crabgrass plants before they set seed. One plant can produce 150,000 seeds.
4. Overseed existing cool season lawns in the fall. A thick turf in the spring will shade the lawn, retard seed germination and better compete with any germinating weed plants.
5. Apply corn gluten meal herbicide about two to three weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Corn gluten will inhibit the germination of turf grass seeds and should not be used within six weeks of reseeding a lawn. Corn gluten is only about 65% effective compared to synthetic products but is an organic control.
6. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide about two weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In mid-Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide after the crabgrass has begun to germinate will not provide good control but may inhibit seedlings at the 2-leaf stage or seeds that are slower to germinate. Products that combine pre-emergent herbicides and fertilizer are not recommended. Read and follow label directions carefully.
7. Apply a post-emergent crabgrass herbicide if a pre-emergent herbicide was not used or if it was ineffective and control is warranted in early summer. Read and follow label directions carefully.
8. Do nothing in late summer. Crabgrass is an annual grass that will be killed by frost. Applying a post-emergent herbicide in late summer may not be warranted as the first frost will kill it. Next year apply a pre-emergent in early spring to prevent new seedlings.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 - 5 are strictly organic approaches.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
There are three crabgrass species commonly found as weeds in lawns - hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis), southern crabgrass (Digitaria ciliaris) and smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). All three species are pale green, have a prostrate or ascending growth habit, and have flat 5-10 mm wide blades. The seed heads have 2-6 branches with 2 rows of seeds along each branch. Crabgrass may be found in a wide variety of landscape settings but grows best in full sun.
Life Cycle
Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass that overwinters as seeds and germinates when soil temperatures in mid spring consistently remain at 50 to 55 degrees for a number of days in a row. Seeds can continue to germinate throughout the summer if soil temperatures and moisture conditions are adequate. It grows during the heat of summer, sets seeds and is killed by the first frost.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques to keep lawns healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Cool season grasses fertilized in the fall and mid to late spring will go into mid-summer dormancy later and will compete better with the crabgrass.
2. Set the lawnmower at 3 inches high. Taller grass will shade the soil and decrease the germination rate of crabgrass seeds.
3. Pull crabgrass plants before they set seed. One plant can produce 150,000 seeds.
4. Overseed existing cool season lawns in the fall. A thick turf in the spring will shade the lawn, retard seed germination and better compete with any germinating weed plants.
5. Apply corn gluten meal herbicide about two to three weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Corn gluten will inhibit the germination of turf grass seeds and should not be used within six weeks of reseeding a lawn. Corn gluten is only about 65% effective compared to synthetic products but is an organic control.
6. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide about two weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In mid-Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide after the crabgrass has begun to germinate will not provide good control but may inhibit seedlings at the 2-leaf stage or seeds that are slower to germinate. Products that combine pre-emergent herbicides and fertilizer are not recommended. Read and follow label directions carefully.
7. Apply a post-emergent crabgrass herbicide if a pre-emergent herbicide was not used or if it was ineffective and control is warranted in early summer. Read and follow label directions carefully.
8. Do nothing in late summer. Crabgrass is an annual grass that will be killed by frost. Applying a post-emergent herbicide in late summer may not be warranted as the first frost will kill it. Next year apply a pre-emergent in early spring to prevent new seedlings.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 - 5 are strictly organic approaches.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
A weed is a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth, especially one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. Summer annual weeds emerge in the spring or early summer, grow during the summer, produce seed in mid to late summer, and are killed by frost in the fall. Following are some of the more common summer annual weeds for the St. Louis area. General control measures are listed at the end of this article.
GRASSES
Barnyardgrass
Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) is a summer annual grass that germinates from seeds from late winter or early spring throughout the summer. The stems are usually erect, thick, without hairs, often branched at the lower nodes, and may be tinted red to maroon at the base. The stems may reach 5 feet in height. The smooth, hairless leaves are rolled in the bud and contain neither ligules nor auricles. The dark green leaves, which range from 4 to 20 inches in length, have a distinct white midvein range. The seed head is green to reddish purple, with conspicuous, short stiff bristles or barbed spikelets. The roots are fibrous. Under close mowing, the broad, compressed purple sheaths of barnyardgrass lie flat on the ground and spread in a semicircular pattern. Barnyardgrass is found in moist soils, especially soils high in nutrients.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass, large and smooth (Digitaria sanguinalis, Digitaria ischaemum) are pale green summer annuals that has a prostrate or ascending growth habit. The two main species of crabgrass that occur in Missouri are smooth and large. Smooth crabgrass may be distinguished from large crabgrass by the absence of hairs on the leaves and sheath. Also smooth crabgrass does not root at the nodes like large crabgrass. Both species have a long, jagged membranous ligule and have no auricles. Crabgrass forms dense, unsightly patches that smother desirable turf grasses. Germination occurs when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees F and is generally killed at the first frost. A crabgrass plant which needs warm soils and sunlight can produce 150,000 seeds. The seed head is composed of 2-6 branches (spikes) at the top of the stems forming 2 rows along the spike.
To control early in the season, use a pre-emergent herbicide as soon as soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F for a period of four days about the time forsythia blooms. A pre-emergent herbicide is recommended even if some crabgrass plants have germinated. There will still be crabgrass seed in the soil and the herbicide can prevent further infestation. Do not aerate after a pre-emergent herbicide application. For crabgrass control after germination, use a post-emergent selective grass herbicide.
Fall Panicum
Fall panicum (Panicum dichotomiflorum) is known as smooth witchgrass. It has a zigzag appearance as the buds turn out at the nodes. It has a very rounded stem, grows to 7’ and there is a purple tinge to its inflorescence. Sometimes it is confused with Johnson grass or barnyard grass, but fall panicum has a hairy ligule. Also its first true leaf has hairs on the underside of the blade, Johnson grass and barnyard grass do not.
Witchgrass
Panicum capillare is known as witchgrass or tickle grass. Culms are erect or spreading at the base. They are hollow, and pubescent at the nodes. They grow from 8 to 28” inches tall. The inflorescence is often ½ the length of the entire plant. It is purplish at maturity. It is softly hairy and the seeds are 1/16 of an inch. The head breaks off easily and rolls away in the wind, like a tumbleweed.
Goosegrass
Goosegrass (Elusine indica) is a prostrate-growing summer annual weed that grows in a clump. The leaves are distinctly folded in the bud and may be smooth or have a few sparse hairs at the base of the leaf. Goosegrass can be identified by the whitish stems at the base that are extremely compressed and flattened. The ligule is toothed and membranous with a cut in the center. There are no auricles. Goosegrass seed heads contain 3-7 spikes that form at the tip of the stalk. The seeds are attached in a zipper appearance on the spike. Goosegrass germinates about two weeks later than smooth crabgrass. Goosegrass can tolerate heavy traffic, dry compacted soils and low mowing heights.
Sandbur
Sandbur (Cenchrus longispinus) is a low-growing summer annual weed which is found in dense spreading patches most commonly in sandy soils. It roots at the nodes on the stems if they touch the ground. The leaves are folded in the bud, ¼ inch wide, and tapering to a point. The ligule is a short fringe of hairs and the auricles are absent. The seed head is a single spike with 6 to 20 rounded burs which contain 2 seeds in each bur. Sandbur seeds catch on clothing and animal fur and the barbed burs can easily pierce the skin and cause injury to livestock and people. Plants growing low to the ground can still produce burs. After a frost, entire plants become straw-colored, but stems with burs can persist through the winter. Seed dispersal occurs by animals, farm equipment, tires and in contaminated hay. Water is also important for seed dispersal, as burs float and may be carried for miles in irrigations ditches and other waterways.
Yellow Foxtail
Yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca) is a summer annual found especially in the Midwest and Eastern parts of the United States. It germinates when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees. Leaves are rolled in the bud. The ligule is a fringe of hairs. Auricles are absent. The collar is narrow and continuous. The blade contains hairs near the ligule. It has an upright growth pattern. The seed head is a bushy spike which resembles the tail of a fox.
BROADLEAFS
Black Medic
Black medic (Medicago lupulina) is a summer annual that can act as a perennial. The leaf is similar to other legumes, but the center leaflet is on a separate petiole. The flower is a compressed cluster of bright yellow flowers in the shape of a globular spike on short branches. The seed pod turns black at maturity. It will produce seeds at normal mowing heights. It can be confused with lespedeza (Kummerowia striata) unless it is blooming. Lespedeza has a bright blue flower.
Carpetweed
Carpetweed (Mollugo verticillata) is a summer annual with smooth prostrate branching stems forming circular mats. It is light green in color, the leaves are lanceolate in shape, widest in the middle and narrow at tip and base. Leaves form whorls containing 3-8 leaves. The flowers are white, have 5 petals, and form clusters of 2-5 flowers. Flowers are formed in the leaf axils. It spreads by seed, and is found throughout North America. Carpetweed germinates much later than other summer weeds. It grows quickly, especially in thin turf. Mowing misses it. It prefers rich moist soils, but it can establish itself in dry, sandy soil.
Lambsquarter
Lambsquarter (Chenopodium album) is an erect growing summer annual that may appear highly branched in a mowed setting. The immature leaves appear to be covered with a white mealy substance, especially on the underside of the leaf. The first pair of leaves are opposite, and subsequent leaves are alternate along the stems. Leaf margins vary, but usually are irregularly lobed. The root of lambsquarter is a short, branched taproot. The flowers are found in small green clusters and lack petals. The clusters of flowers form in terminal spikes. Lambsquarter spreads by black seeds that germinate in the late spring to early summer. Each plant produces thousands of tiny seeds that may remain viable for years. When lambsquarter is abundant, it is reported to cause hay fever symptoms.
Mallow
Mallow (Hibiscus trionum) is a summer annual-- it is also called “flower of an hour”. There is a winter annual mallow, it is usually called the common mallow. H. trionum is grown in Europe as an ornamental. It is upright 10-18”. It is covered with hairs. The leaves are deeply cleft with 3-5 coarsely toothed lobes on long petioles. The lower stems and petioles are red to purple in color. It has a fibrous root system with a weak taproot. It has a showy flower. It is light sulfur-yellow in color with a deep red to purple center. It does last 2-3 hours then the petals drop. It spreads by seed. The seed can be dormant for 50 years. It is found throughout the U.S. Mallow can infest nurseries, orchards, roadsides, cultivated fields and open areas. It tolerates drought, alkaline soil, and gravelly soils.
Pigweed
Pigweed is actually toxic to pigs and cows. This summer annual has alternate leaves. There are 10 pigweeds (Amaranthus) identified through the corn belt area: redroot, smooth, rough pigweed, Powell, tumble, prostrate, spiny, tall, sandhill and another one. The difference is in the flower. The leaves are alternate, the seeds (1/25”) are shiny, round and flat. The plant can reach 2-4’ for the smaller ones and up to 61/2’ for the larger ones.
Prostrate knotweed
Prostrate knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) is a summer annual which resembles a grass with long, dark leaves as the seedling emerges. Later, it forms a flat mat up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter on slender wiry stems that emerge from a tap root. There are papery sheath or ocrea at each node that give the stems a knotted or swollen appearance. The alternate leaves are small and narrowly oval, dull and bluish green, and 1 ¼ inches long by 1/3 inch wide. The flowers are small pink to white and form in clusters in the leaf axis. Knotweed is found in compacted, infertile soil or thin turf in the sun. Smartweed is a close relative of knotweed, but it has a purple ocrea encircling the stem. Spotted spurge may be confused with knotweed, but the spurges do not have an ocrea and emit a milky sap when cut, unlike prostrate knotweed.
Puncturevine
Puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris) is a summer annual weed with multiple stems prostrate along the ground. Stems may be up to five feet long originating from a taproot. Leaves are compound pinnate with four to eight pairs of hairy leaflets. Each leaflet is less than ½ inch long. The small yellow flowers have five petals and are about 1/3 inch wide. The flowers, which consist of 5 petals, produce hard, spiny, five-lobed fruit. Bloom is in late spring and early summer. At maturity the fruit breaks into tack-like structures each containing 2 to 4 seeds. Seed nutlets disperse by adhering to tires, shoes and clothing of people, fur, feathers, and feet of animals. These burs can injure people and animals and can damage bike and car tires. Foliage is toxic to livestock, especially sheep, when consumed in quantity. The fruit is used medicinally in India.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a prostrate mat-forming summer annual that can reach up to 24 inches long. It has multi-branched red stems that root at the nodes wherever they contact the soil surface. The smooth, thick, fleshy leaves are usually alternate and are often clustered near the ends of the branches. The entire plant is very succulent and resembles a jade plant. Purslane is common to disturbed soil, new seedlings, sidewalk crevices and mulched planting beds. It prefers high light and warm conditions. This plant reproduces by seeds that are formed in a capsule with a lid that flips open in the spring. Solitary yellow flowers with 5 petals will only open with sunny conditions from May to September. Purslane’s use as a medicinal herb to treat dysentery, headache, and stomach ache dates back 2000 years. It was also used as a salad green by the Australian aborigines, by the Chinese, French, Italians, and the English.
Ragweed
Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisifolia) is a summer annual that produces pollen. One weed equals 1 billion grains of pollen, 100 million tons of pollen are produced per year. It grows up to 5’ tall. Opposite leaves are egg-shaped in outline and once or twice compound (pinnatified), they are hairy on their upper surface and margin. Leaves can be up to 6” long, The erect stems have long rough hairs. The fruit is an achene, which resembles a queen’s crown. It has a shallow taproot. There is a giant ragweed (Ambrosia tridida) which grows up to 14’ high. No animal eats ragweed.
Spurge
Prostrate spurge (Euphorbia supine) and spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculate) are summer annual weeds. Spotted spurge has a more erect growth habit than prostrate spurge. Prostrate spurge forms dense mats with its stems radiating out from a shallow taproot. Both species have similar leaves, which are small and oblong with an irregular maroon to purple spot in their center. However, the leaves of spotted spurge are slightly larger than those of prostrate spurge. Both spurges have leaves that grow opposite on the stem, but spotted spurge has fewer leaves per stem. When the leaves of both spurges are broken or injured they emit a milky white sap (similar to dandelion). Prostrate spurge roots at the nodes, but spotted spurge does not. Both spurges reproduce from seed. The flower of spotted spurge is small and green in color. Prostrate spurge has inconspicuous small, pinkish white flowers in the leaf axils.
Vervain
Vervain (Verbena officinalis) is known as the herb of enchantment. It is used medically in 30 complaints. Supposedly vervain staunched the wounds of Christ on the Mount of Calvary. It has a slightly bitter taste and it has no scent. Vervain is rarely perennial, the leaves are numerous, opposite, lanceolate to ovate ½ to 3” long. It is pinnately toothed, it can have 3 lobes, with the center lobe larger than the others. The leaves are hairy on both surfaces. The flower is a dense terminal spike 1-8” long, usually ascending. The flower is blue or purple with 5 lobes, the tiny flowers are almost hidden by conspicuous hairy bracts.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies for Summer Annual Weeds
1. Use good cultural practices to prevent the spread of summer annual weeds. Maintain a dense actively growing turf through proper mowing, fertilizing and watering practices. Most lawns should be cut at least 2 inches or higher. Watering deeply (4-6 inches) just before the turf begins to wilt is a sound approach. Frequent light watering promotes weak turf with shallow roots which are more susceptible to insect and disease attacks as well as weed invasion. Complete soil testing is the key to proper liming and fertilization. Cultural practices for the control of summer annual weeds are aimed at shading and crowding the young weed seedlings by producing a dense sod.
2. Dig up the weeds.
3. Coring and traffic control reduce compaction and encourage desirable turfgrass growth. Mulch flower beds to control weeds.
4. Use chemical herbicides. Use a post-emergent herbicide when the weed is young, usually three to four leaf stage. It is best to control summer annual weeds in late spring or early summer when they are young. They are easier to control at that time and both warm season and cool season turfgrasses have a greater chance to recover the areas previously occupied by weeds. There are also some pre-emergent herbicides available which form a chemical barrier in the soil and prevent the weeds from emerging. Check herbicide labels to verify that the herbicide you have chosen is effective in controlling your problem weed and when and how to apply.
GRASSES
Barnyardgrass
Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) is a summer annual grass that germinates from seeds from late winter or early spring throughout the summer. The stems are usually erect, thick, without hairs, often branched at the lower nodes, and may be tinted red to maroon at the base. The stems may reach 5 feet in height. The smooth, hairless leaves are rolled in the bud and contain neither ligules nor auricles. The dark green leaves, which range from 4 to 20 inches in length, have a distinct white midvein range. The seed head is green to reddish purple, with conspicuous, short stiff bristles or barbed spikelets. The roots are fibrous. Under close mowing, the broad, compressed purple sheaths of barnyardgrass lie flat on the ground and spread in a semicircular pattern. Barnyardgrass is found in moist soils, especially soils high in nutrients.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass, large and smooth (Digitaria sanguinalis, Digitaria ischaemum) are pale green summer annuals that has a prostrate or ascending growth habit. The two main species of crabgrass that occur in Missouri are smooth and large. Smooth crabgrass may be distinguished from large crabgrass by the absence of hairs on the leaves and sheath. Also smooth crabgrass does not root at the nodes like large crabgrass. Both species have a long, jagged membranous ligule and have no auricles. Crabgrass forms dense, unsightly patches that smother desirable turf grasses. Germination occurs when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees F and is generally killed at the first frost. A crabgrass plant which needs warm soils and sunlight can produce 150,000 seeds. The seed head is composed of 2-6 branches (spikes) at the top of the stems forming 2 rows along the spike.
To control early in the season, use a pre-emergent herbicide as soon as soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F for a period of four days about the time forsythia blooms. A pre-emergent herbicide is recommended even if some crabgrass plants have germinated. There will still be crabgrass seed in the soil and the herbicide can prevent further infestation. Do not aerate after a pre-emergent herbicide application. For crabgrass control after germination, use a post-emergent selective grass herbicide.
Fall Panicum
Fall panicum (Panicum dichotomiflorum) is known as smooth witchgrass. It has a zigzag appearance as the buds turn out at the nodes. It has a very rounded stem, grows to 7’ and there is a purple tinge to its inflorescence. Sometimes it is confused with Johnson grass or barnyard grass, but fall panicum has a hairy ligule. Also its first true leaf has hairs on the underside of the blade, Johnson grass and barnyard grass do not.
Witchgrass
Panicum capillare is known as witchgrass or tickle grass. Culms are erect or spreading at the base. They are hollow, and pubescent at the nodes. They grow from 8 to 28” inches tall. The inflorescence is often ½ the length of the entire plant. It is purplish at maturity. It is softly hairy and the seeds are 1/16 of an inch. The head breaks off easily and rolls away in the wind, like a tumbleweed.
Goosegrass
Goosegrass (Elusine indica) is a prostrate-growing summer annual weed that grows in a clump. The leaves are distinctly folded in the bud and may be smooth or have a few sparse hairs at the base of the leaf. Goosegrass can be identified by the whitish stems at the base that are extremely compressed and flattened. The ligule is toothed and membranous with a cut in the center. There are no auricles. Goosegrass seed heads contain 3-7 spikes that form at the tip of the stalk. The seeds are attached in a zipper appearance on the spike. Goosegrass germinates about two weeks later than smooth crabgrass. Goosegrass can tolerate heavy traffic, dry compacted soils and low mowing heights.
Sandbur
Sandbur (Cenchrus longispinus) is a low-growing summer annual weed which is found in dense spreading patches most commonly in sandy soils. It roots at the nodes on the stems if they touch the ground. The leaves are folded in the bud, ¼ inch wide, and tapering to a point. The ligule is a short fringe of hairs and the auricles are absent. The seed head is a single spike with 6 to 20 rounded burs which contain 2 seeds in each bur. Sandbur seeds catch on clothing and animal fur and the barbed burs can easily pierce the skin and cause injury to livestock and people. Plants growing low to the ground can still produce burs. After a frost, entire plants become straw-colored, but stems with burs can persist through the winter. Seed dispersal occurs by animals, farm equipment, tires and in contaminated hay. Water is also important for seed dispersal, as burs float and may be carried for miles in irrigations ditches and other waterways.
Yellow Foxtail
Yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca) is a summer annual found especially in the Midwest and Eastern parts of the United States. It germinates when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees. Leaves are rolled in the bud. The ligule is a fringe of hairs. Auricles are absent. The collar is narrow and continuous. The blade contains hairs near the ligule. It has an upright growth pattern. The seed head is a bushy spike which resembles the tail of a fox.
BROADLEAFS
Black Medic
Black medic (Medicago lupulina) is a summer annual that can act as a perennial. The leaf is similar to other legumes, but the center leaflet is on a separate petiole. The flower is a compressed cluster of bright yellow flowers in the shape of a globular spike on short branches. The seed pod turns black at maturity. It will produce seeds at normal mowing heights. It can be confused with lespedeza (Kummerowia striata) unless it is blooming. Lespedeza has a bright blue flower.
Carpetweed
Carpetweed (Mollugo verticillata) is a summer annual with smooth prostrate branching stems forming circular mats. It is light green in color, the leaves are lanceolate in shape, widest in the middle and narrow at tip and base. Leaves form whorls containing 3-8 leaves. The flowers are white, have 5 petals, and form clusters of 2-5 flowers. Flowers are formed in the leaf axils. It spreads by seed, and is found throughout North America. Carpetweed germinates much later than other summer weeds. It grows quickly, especially in thin turf. Mowing misses it. It prefers rich moist soils, but it can establish itself in dry, sandy soil.
Lambsquarter
Lambsquarter (Chenopodium album) is an erect growing summer annual that may appear highly branched in a mowed setting. The immature leaves appear to be covered with a white mealy substance, especially on the underside of the leaf. The first pair of leaves are opposite, and subsequent leaves are alternate along the stems. Leaf margins vary, but usually are irregularly lobed. The root of lambsquarter is a short, branched taproot. The flowers are found in small green clusters and lack petals. The clusters of flowers form in terminal spikes. Lambsquarter spreads by black seeds that germinate in the late spring to early summer. Each plant produces thousands of tiny seeds that may remain viable for years. When lambsquarter is abundant, it is reported to cause hay fever symptoms.
Mallow
Mallow (Hibiscus trionum) is a summer annual-- it is also called “flower of an hour”. There is a winter annual mallow, it is usually called the common mallow. H. trionum is grown in Europe as an ornamental. It is upright 10-18”. It is covered with hairs. The leaves are deeply cleft with 3-5 coarsely toothed lobes on long petioles. The lower stems and petioles are red to purple in color. It has a fibrous root system with a weak taproot. It has a showy flower. It is light sulfur-yellow in color with a deep red to purple center. It does last 2-3 hours then the petals drop. It spreads by seed. The seed can be dormant for 50 years. It is found throughout the U.S. Mallow can infest nurseries, orchards, roadsides, cultivated fields and open areas. It tolerates drought, alkaline soil, and gravelly soils.
Pigweed
Pigweed is actually toxic to pigs and cows. This summer annual has alternate leaves. There are 10 pigweeds (Amaranthus) identified through the corn belt area: redroot, smooth, rough pigweed, Powell, tumble, prostrate, spiny, tall, sandhill and another one. The difference is in the flower. The leaves are alternate, the seeds (1/25”) are shiny, round and flat. The plant can reach 2-4’ for the smaller ones and up to 61/2’ for the larger ones.
Prostrate knotweed
Prostrate knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) is a summer annual which resembles a grass with long, dark leaves as the seedling emerges. Later, it forms a flat mat up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter on slender wiry stems that emerge from a tap root. There are papery sheath or ocrea at each node that give the stems a knotted or swollen appearance. The alternate leaves are small and narrowly oval, dull and bluish green, and 1 ¼ inches long by 1/3 inch wide. The flowers are small pink to white and form in clusters in the leaf axis. Knotweed is found in compacted, infertile soil or thin turf in the sun. Smartweed is a close relative of knotweed, but it has a purple ocrea encircling the stem. Spotted spurge may be confused with knotweed, but the spurges do not have an ocrea and emit a milky sap when cut, unlike prostrate knotweed.
Puncturevine
Puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris) is a summer annual weed with multiple stems prostrate along the ground. Stems may be up to five feet long originating from a taproot. Leaves are compound pinnate with four to eight pairs of hairy leaflets. Each leaflet is less than ½ inch long. The small yellow flowers have five petals and are about 1/3 inch wide. The flowers, which consist of 5 petals, produce hard, spiny, five-lobed fruit. Bloom is in late spring and early summer. At maturity the fruit breaks into tack-like structures each containing 2 to 4 seeds. Seed nutlets disperse by adhering to tires, shoes and clothing of people, fur, feathers, and feet of animals. These burs can injure people and animals and can damage bike and car tires. Foliage is toxic to livestock, especially sheep, when consumed in quantity. The fruit is used medicinally in India.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a prostrate mat-forming summer annual that can reach up to 24 inches long. It has multi-branched red stems that root at the nodes wherever they contact the soil surface. The smooth, thick, fleshy leaves are usually alternate and are often clustered near the ends of the branches. The entire plant is very succulent and resembles a jade plant. Purslane is common to disturbed soil, new seedlings, sidewalk crevices and mulched planting beds. It prefers high light and warm conditions. This plant reproduces by seeds that are formed in a capsule with a lid that flips open in the spring. Solitary yellow flowers with 5 petals will only open with sunny conditions from May to September. Purslane’s use as a medicinal herb to treat dysentery, headache, and stomach ache dates back 2000 years. It was also used as a salad green by the Australian aborigines, by the Chinese, French, Italians, and the English.
Ragweed
Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisifolia) is a summer annual that produces pollen. One weed equals 1 billion grains of pollen, 100 million tons of pollen are produced per year. It grows up to 5’ tall. Opposite leaves are egg-shaped in outline and once or twice compound (pinnatified), they are hairy on their upper surface and margin. Leaves can be up to 6” long, The erect stems have long rough hairs. The fruit is an achene, which resembles a queen’s crown. It has a shallow taproot. There is a giant ragweed (Ambrosia tridida) which grows up to 14’ high. No animal eats ragweed.
Spurge
Prostrate spurge (Euphorbia supine) and spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculate) are summer annual weeds. Spotted spurge has a more erect growth habit than prostrate spurge. Prostrate spurge forms dense mats with its stems radiating out from a shallow taproot. Both species have similar leaves, which are small and oblong with an irregular maroon to purple spot in their center. However, the leaves of spotted spurge are slightly larger than those of prostrate spurge. Both spurges have leaves that grow opposite on the stem, but spotted spurge has fewer leaves per stem. When the leaves of both spurges are broken or injured they emit a milky white sap (similar to dandelion). Prostrate spurge roots at the nodes, but spotted spurge does not. Both spurges reproduce from seed. The flower of spotted spurge is small and green in color. Prostrate spurge has inconspicuous small, pinkish white flowers in the leaf axils.
Vervain
Vervain (Verbena officinalis) is known as the herb of enchantment. It is used medically in 30 complaints. Supposedly vervain staunched the wounds of Christ on the Mount of Calvary. It has a slightly bitter taste and it has no scent. Vervain is rarely perennial, the leaves are numerous, opposite, lanceolate to ovate ½ to 3” long. It is pinnately toothed, it can have 3 lobes, with the center lobe larger than the others. The leaves are hairy on both surfaces. The flower is a dense terminal spike 1-8” long, usually ascending. The flower is blue or purple with 5 lobes, the tiny flowers are almost hidden by conspicuous hairy bracts.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies for Summer Annual Weeds
1. Use good cultural practices to prevent the spread of summer annual weeds. Maintain a dense actively growing turf through proper mowing, fertilizing and watering practices. Most lawns should be cut at least 2 inches or higher. Watering deeply (4-6 inches) just before the turf begins to wilt is a sound approach. Frequent light watering promotes weak turf with shallow roots which are more susceptible to insect and disease attacks as well as weed invasion. Complete soil testing is the key to proper liming and fertilization. Cultural practices for the control of summer annual weeds are aimed at shading and crowding the young weed seedlings by producing a dense sod.
2. Dig up the weeds.
3. Coring and traffic control reduce compaction and encourage desirable turfgrass growth. Mulch flower beds to control weeds.
4. Use chemical herbicides. Use a post-emergent herbicide when the weed is young, usually three to four leaf stage. It is best to control summer annual weeds in late spring or early summer when they are young. They are easier to control at that time and both warm season and cool season turfgrasses have a greater chance to recover the areas previously occupied by weeds. There are also some pre-emergent herbicides available which form a chemical barrier in the soil and prevent the weeds from emerging. Check herbicide labels to verify that the herbicide you have chosen is effective in controlling your problem weed and when and how to apply.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for a ground cover that thrives in deep shade where grass and other plants refuse to grow, look no further than snow on the mountain plant (Ageopodium podograria). Also called bishop’s weed or goutweed, the shallow roots of this quick-growing, deciduous ground cover sit above those of most companion plants so that they don’t interfere with their growth. Solid green varieties provide a lush, uniform appearance, and variegated forms have white highlights that glisten in deep shade.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as goutweed and snow on the mountain, bishop’s weed is a rambunctious plant native to western Asia and Europe. It has naturalized across most of the United States, where it isn’t always welcome due to its extreme invasive tendencies. However, bishop’s weed plant may be just the thing for tough areas with poor soil or excessive shade; it will grow where most plants are doomed to fail. A variegated form of bishop’s weed plant is popular in home gardens. This form, (Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’) displays small, bluish-green leaves with white edges. The creamy white color provides a luminous effect in shady areas, which probably explains why bishop’s weed plant is also known as “snow on the mountain.” Eventually, you may notice variegation loss in bishop’s weed plants. If your bishop’s weed is losing its variegation, read on for information.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
Variegation Loss in Bishop’s Weed
Why is my snow on the mountain losing color? Well, for starters, it’s normal for the variegated form of bishop’s weed to revert back to solid green. You may even notice areas of solid green leaves and variegated leaves mixed together in a single patch. Unfortunately, you may not have much control over this phenomenon.
Variegation loss in bishop’s weed may be more prevalent in shady areas, where the plant has the misfortune of both low light and low chlorophyll, which are required for photosynthesis. Going green may be a survival tactic; as the plant goes green, it produces more chlorophyll and is able to absorb more energy from sunlight.
You may be able to do some trimming and pruning of trees or shrubs that keep your bishop’s weed plant in shade. Otherwise, variegation loss in bishop’s weed is probably irreversible. The only answer is to learn to enjoy the non-variegated, bluish-green leaves. After all, it’s just as attractive.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you are looking for something to naturalize a sloping home landscape, consider planting crown vetch for a natural backyard. While some may think of it as merely a weed, others have long since taken advantage of this plant’s unique beauty and use in the landscape. Best of all, the care of crown vetch ‘weed’ is extremely easy. So how do you grow crown vetch? Keep reading to learn more about this interesting plant.
What is Crown Vetch Weed?
Crown vetch (Coronilla varia L.) is a trailing herbaceous member of the pea family. This cool season perennial plant is also known as ax seed, ax wort, hive-vine, and trailing crown vetch. Introduced in North America from Europe in the 1950’s as a ground cover for soil erosion on banks and highways, this ground cover spread rapidly and naturalized throughout the United States. Although commonly planted as an ornamental, it is important that homeowners be aware this plant can become invasive in many areas, lending to its reference as crown vetch weed. That said, crown vetch fixes nitrogen in the soil and is commonly used to restore strip-mined soil. Use crown vetch for a natural backyard or to cover slopes or rocky areas in your landscape. Attractive pinkish-rose flowers appear in May through August sitting atop short fern-like leaflets. Flowers produce long and slender pods with seeds that are reported to be toxic.
How Do You Grow Crown Vetch?
Planting crown vetch can be done by seed or potted plants. If you have a large area to cover, it is best to use seed. Crown vetch is not particular about soil type and will tolerate low pH and low fertility. However, you can prepare the soil by adding lime and organic compost. Leave rocks and hunks of dirt for a somewhat uneven planting bed. While it prefers full sun, it will tolerate some spotty shade. Young plants also do best when covered with a shallow layer of mulch.
Care of Crown Vetch
Once planted, the care of crown vetch requires very little maintenance, if any. Water new plants regularly and mow established plants to the ground in early fall. Cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection. Note: Crown vetch plants are commonly found in mail-order catalogs and nurseries with alternate spellings of one or two words. Either one is correct.
What is Crown Vetch Weed?
Crown vetch (Coronilla varia L.) is a trailing herbaceous member of the pea family. This cool season perennial plant is also known as ax seed, ax wort, hive-vine, and trailing crown vetch. Introduced in North America from Europe in the 1950’s as a ground cover for soil erosion on banks and highways, this ground cover spread rapidly and naturalized throughout the United States. Although commonly planted as an ornamental, it is important that homeowners be aware this plant can become invasive in many areas, lending to its reference as crown vetch weed. That said, crown vetch fixes nitrogen in the soil and is commonly used to restore strip-mined soil. Use crown vetch for a natural backyard or to cover slopes or rocky areas in your landscape. Attractive pinkish-rose flowers appear in May through August sitting atop short fern-like leaflets. Flowers produce long and slender pods with seeds that are reported to be toxic.
How Do You Grow Crown Vetch?
Planting crown vetch can be done by seed or potted plants. If you have a large area to cover, it is best to use seed. Crown vetch is not particular about soil type and will tolerate low pH and low fertility. However, you can prepare the soil by adding lime and organic compost. Leave rocks and hunks of dirt for a somewhat uneven planting bed. While it prefers full sun, it will tolerate some spotty shade. Young plants also do best when covered with a shallow layer of mulch.
Care of Crown Vetch
Once planted, the care of crown vetch requires very little maintenance, if any. Water new plants regularly and mow established plants to the ground in early fall. Cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection. Note: Crown vetch plants are commonly found in mail-order catalogs and nurseries with alternate spellings of one or two words. Either one is correct.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
In some places dichondra, a low growing plant and member of the morning glory family, is seen as a weed. In other places, however, it is valued as an attractive ground cover or even a substitute for a small lawn area. Let’s find out more about how to grow dichondra ground cover.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
0
0
求助
Sean Mack
2017年08月26日
What is this plant? Its growing like a weed. the small berry/seedpods are turning red as they mature. im in yhe north east of the US if that helps identify
1
0
Sean Mack：@meriunkat thank you!! And great tip on the staining. It seems to have some nice year on it tho. Been making a bread starter next to it and it looks so happy!
meriunkat：I found it on Whiteflowerfarm.com it's called common pokeweed (Phytolacca Americana L.)
meriunkat：It also blooms little white flowers
meriunkat：oh I had this plant growing in my backyard once, it's annoying because those seed pods fall a lot when they are red and make a mess, they also stain so be careful 😁
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Super plant or invasive weed? The mosquito fern plant has been called both. So what is a mosquito fern? The following will uncover some fascinating mosquito fern facts and leave you to be the judge.
What is a Mosquito Fern?
Native to California, the mosquito fern plant, Azolla filculoides or just Azolla, is named thus due to its habitat. While the plant starts off as small as ¼ inch, mosquito fern habitat is that of a matting, aquatic plant that can double its size in a couple of days! This thick-living carpet is named mosquito fern plant because it repels mosquito attempts to lay eggs in the water. The mosquitoes may not like mosquito ferns, but the waterfowl certainly do and, in fact, this plant is an important food source for them. This floating aquatic fern, like all ferns, propagates through spores. However, Azolla also multiplies by stem fragments, making it a prolific grower.
Mosquito Fern Facts
The plant is sometimes mistaken for duckweed, and like duckweed, mosquito fern plant is initially green. It soon turns to a reddish-brown hue as a result of excess nutrients or bright sunlight. A red or green carpet of mosquito fern is most often found in ponds or muddy banks, or in areas of standing water in streams. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with another organism called Anabeana azollae; this organism is a nitrogen-fixing cyanobactrium. The bacterium resides safely in the fern and supplies it with the excess nitrogen it produces. This relationship has long been utilized in China and other Asian countries as a “green manure” to fertilize rice paddies. This centuries old method has been known to increase production by as much as 158%! So far, I think you will agree that this is a “super plant.” However, for some people, there is a down side. Because mosquito plant breaks apart so easily and, thereby, reproduces rapidly, it may become a problem. When there is an excess of nutrients introduced into the pond or irrigation water, either due to runoff or erosion, mosquito plant will seemingly explode in size overnight, clogging screens and pumps. Additionally, it is said that cattle will not drink from ponds that are clogged with mosquito fern. Now this “super plant” is more an “invasive weed.”
If the mosquito fern plant is more of a thorn in your side than a boon, you can try dragging or raking the pond to rid it of the plant. Keep in mind that any broken stems will likely multiply into new plants and the problem will likely repeat itself. If you can figure out a way to mitigate the amount of runoff to lessen the nutrients entering the pond, you can slow down mosquito fern’s growth somewhat. Of last resort is spraying Azolla with an herbicide. This isn’t highly recommended, as it only affects a small portion of the mat of fern and the resulting rotting plant can affect water quality.
What is a Mosquito Fern?
Native to California, the mosquito fern plant, Azolla filculoides or just Azolla, is named thus due to its habitat. While the plant starts off as small as ¼ inch, mosquito fern habitat is that of a matting, aquatic plant that can double its size in a couple of days! This thick-living carpet is named mosquito fern plant because it repels mosquito attempts to lay eggs in the water. The mosquitoes may not like mosquito ferns, but the waterfowl certainly do and, in fact, this plant is an important food source for them. This floating aquatic fern, like all ferns, propagates through spores. However, Azolla also multiplies by stem fragments, making it a prolific grower.
Mosquito Fern Facts
The plant is sometimes mistaken for duckweed, and like duckweed, mosquito fern plant is initially green. It soon turns to a reddish-brown hue as a result of excess nutrients or bright sunlight. A red or green carpet of mosquito fern is most often found in ponds or muddy banks, or in areas of standing water in streams. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with another organism called Anabeana azollae; this organism is a nitrogen-fixing cyanobactrium. The bacterium resides safely in the fern and supplies it with the excess nitrogen it produces. This relationship has long been utilized in China and other Asian countries as a “green manure” to fertilize rice paddies. This centuries old method has been known to increase production by as much as 158%! So far, I think you will agree that this is a “super plant.” However, for some people, there is a down side. Because mosquito plant breaks apart so easily and, thereby, reproduces rapidly, it may become a problem. When there is an excess of nutrients introduced into the pond or irrigation water, either due to runoff or erosion, mosquito plant will seemingly explode in size overnight, clogging screens and pumps. Additionally, it is said that cattle will not drink from ponds that are clogged with mosquito fern. Now this “super plant” is more an “invasive weed.”
If the mosquito fern plant is more of a thorn in your side than a boon, you can try dragging or raking the pond to rid it of the plant. Keep in mind that any broken stems will likely multiply into new plants and the problem will likely repeat itself. If you can figure out a way to mitigate the amount of runoff to lessen the nutrients entering the pond, you can slow down mosquito fern’s growth somewhat. Of last resort is spraying Azolla with an herbicide. This isn’t highly recommended, as it only affects a small portion of the mat of fern and the resulting rotting plant can affect water quality.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Hydrilla is an invasive aquatic weed. It was introduced to the United States as an aquarium plant but escaped cultivation and is now a serious weed. Controlling hydrilla weeds is necessary to prevent diminishment of native flora. In most states, it is illegal to possess or transport the species. The plant grows rapidly, spreads easily and out competes native vegetation. It also fouls waterways with its thick tangled mats of stems. The plant is a federally listed noxious weed. Read on to learn more.
What is Hydrilla?
Hydrilla management is the responsibility of pond and lake denizens. What is hydrilla? The plant is often confused with our native Elodea, but it has one or more teeth on the underside of the midrib. This gives the plant a rough feel when you drag your hand down the length of the stem.
The plant is native to Africa, Australia and parts of Asia but has managed to take over many areas of our native flora here in the U.S. The plant is of greatest concern in the southern states but has managed to migrate in small populations to the western regions. It has also been discovered in some northern and Midwest regions. Identification is the first step to eradication. Hydrilla is a perennial plant with dense mats of stems that grow in water over 20 feet in depth. Stems are snaky and numerous, floating in a tangle on the surface of the water. Leaves are narrow with some serration, 1/8 to 3/8 inch long and have spines on the underside of the midrib.
This plant reproduces by seed which is carried on the water but also by fragmentation. Any tiny bit of the plant that is broken off has the capacity to become another plant. In areas with aquatic recreation, plants are consistently torn up to perpetuate the problem. One positive note of hydrilla plant information is its contribution as habitat for fish and animals. Initially, the plant has beneficial effects on fishing areas but, over time, the low oxygen levels in the mats do not support the growth of local animals.
How to Kill Hydrilla
Aquatic and wildlife managers have discovered how difficult hydrilla management can be. This is because of its ease of spread and reproduction. Controlling hydrilla weeds is an issue of concern in most of the United States and has become an economic problem in some regions. As early as the 1980s, $49 million was spent on hydrilla management. The numbers have since increased until infestations have become a budgetary burden in those localities with the highest populations of the plant. It is now known that cold tolerance is another aspect of hydrilla plant information, a detail that makes management even more challenging.
Methods of Controlling Hydrilla Weeds
Dredging and hand pulling or trawling are not effective strategies. This is because of the ease with which the plant establishes itself from small fragments. Stem fragments with only one node can form roots and shoots in just a couple of days. Physical control such as lowering water levels, adding aquatic dye or covering the surface of the water to reduce light have minimal effect. Drained ponds may respond to granular herbicides applied to the mud to eliminate tubers. Grass carp have been introduced in some areas and are efficient at eating and removing some of the plants.
Chemical control is the most effective but cannot be used where there is drinking water. Copper, when mixed with other herbicides, is a useful tool but care must be used around fish. Other chemicals include diquat, endothall, fluridone and dichlobenil. Each of these has extensive hazards and should be applied by a professional or by use of approved formulas recommended for aquatic management. Apply all cautions and respect the instructions regarding application methods and rates completely.
What is Hydrilla?
Hydrilla management is the responsibility of pond and lake denizens. What is hydrilla? The plant is often confused with our native Elodea, but it has one or more teeth on the underside of the midrib. This gives the plant a rough feel when you drag your hand down the length of the stem.
The plant is native to Africa, Australia and parts of Asia but has managed to take over many areas of our native flora here in the U.S. The plant is of greatest concern in the southern states but has managed to migrate in small populations to the western regions. It has also been discovered in some northern and Midwest regions. Identification is the first step to eradication. Hydrilla is a perennial plant with dense mats of stems that grow in water over 20 feet in depth. Stems are snaky and numerous, floating in a tangle on the surface of the water. Leaves are narrow with some serration, 1/8 to 3/8 inch long and have spines on the underside of the midrib.
This plant reproduces by seed which is carried on the water but also by fragmentation. Any tiny bit of the plant that is broken off has the capacity to become another plant. In areas with aquatic recreation, plants are consistently torn up to perpetuate the problem. One positive note of hydrilla plant information is its contribution as habitat for fish and animals. Initially, the plant has beneficial effects on fishing areas but, over time, the low oxygen levels in the mats do not support the growth of local animals.
How to Kill Hydrilla
Aquatic and wildlife managers have discovered how difficult hydrilla management can be. This is because of its ease of spread and reproduction. Controlling hydrilla weeds is an issue of concern in most of the United States and has become an economic problem in some regions. As early as the 1980s, $49 million was spent on hydrilla management. The numbers have since increased until infestations have become a budgetary burden in those localities with the highest populations of the plant. It is now known that cold tolerance is another aspect of hydrilla plant information, a detail that makes management even more challenging.
Methods of Controlling Hydrilla Weeds
Dredging and hand pulling or trawling are not effective strategies. This is because of the ease with which the plant establishes itself from small fragments. Stem fragments with only one node can form roots and shoots in just a couple of days. Physical control such as lowering water levels, adding aquatic dye or covering the surface of the water to reduce light have minimal effect. Drained ponds may respond to granular herbicides applied to the mud to eliminate tubers. Grass carp have been introduced in some areas and are efficient at eating and removing some of the plants.
Chemical control is the most effective but cannot be used where there is drinking water. Copper, when mixed with other herbicides, is a useful tool but care must be used around fish. Other chemicals include diquat, endothall, fluridone and dichlobenil. Each of these has extensive hazards and should be applied by a professional or by use of approved formulas recommended for aquatic management. Apply all cautions and respect the instructions regarding application methods and rates completely.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What is yellow dock? Also known as curly dock, yellow dock (Rumex crispus) is a member of the buckwheat family. This perennial herb, which is often considered to be a weed, grows wild in many areas of North America. Yellow dock herbs have been used for centuries, valued for their medicinal and nutritional qualities. Read on to learn about yellow dock herbal uses, and get a few tips on growing yellow dock plants in your own garden.
Yellow Dock Herbal Uses
There are said to be many benefits of yellow dock herbs, and yellow dock herbs have been used since ancient times, and their use is still implemented by herbal medicine practitioners today. Yellow dock leaves and roots are used to improve digestion, remove toxins from the body, and are often taken as a gentle laxative. It is also used to treat various skin conditions (including burning from stinging nettle), and may be useful as a mild sedative.
Native Americans used yellow dock herbs to treat wounds and swellings, sore muscles, kidney trouble, and jaundice.
In the kitchen, tender yellow dock leaves are steamed much like spinach, then served with olive oil and garlic. Leaves and stems can also be eaten raw or added to salads. The seeds are frequently used as a healthy coffee substitute. Herbalists warn that the plant can be powerful and shouldn’t be used as a home remedy without expert advice. To that end, it’s recommended that you seek professional advice beforehand if you’re interested in using yellow dock herbs medicinally.
How to Grow Yellow Dock Plants
Yellow dock is commonly found in fields and other disturbed areas, such as along roadsides and in pastures in USDA zones 4 through 7. If you want to try growing your own yellow dock, consider that the plant is invasive and can become a pesky weed. If you still want to give it a try, scatter the seeds on the soil in fall, or in spring or summer. Yellow dock prefers moist soil and either full sunlight or partial shade.
Look for some of the seeds to germinate in a few weeks, with more seedlings showing up for the next few years. Don’t attempt to transplant wild plants, as the long taproots make transplantation nearly impossible. To help keep the plant under control, you may want to try growing it in a container. Just ensure it is deep enough for the taproot.
Yellow Dock Herbal Uses
There are said to be many benefits of yellow dock herbs, and yellow dock herbs have been used since ancient times, and their use is still implemented by herbal medicine practitioners today. Yellow dock leaves and roots are used to improve digestion, remove toxins from the body, and are often taken as a gentle laxative. It is also used to treat various skin conditions (including burning from stinging nettle), and may be useful as a mild sedative.
Native Americans used yellow dock herbs to treat wounds and swellings, sore muscles, kidney trouble, and jaundice.
In the kitchen, tender yellow dock leaves are steamed much like spinach, then served with olive oil and garlic. Leaves and stems can also be eaten raw or added to salads. The seeds are frequently used as a healthy coffee substitute. Herbalists warn that the plant can be powerful and shouldn’t be used as a home remedy without expert advice. To that end, it’s recommended that you seek professional advice beforehand if you’re interested in using yellow dock herbs medicinally.
How to Grow Yellow Dock Plants
Yellow dock is commonly found in fields and other disturbed areas, such as along roadsides and in pastures in USDA zones 4 through 7. If you want to try growing your own yellow dock, consider that the plant is invasive and can become a pesky weed. If you still want to give it a try, scatter the seeds on the soil in fall, or in spring or summer. Yellow dock prefers moist soil and either full sunlight or partial shade.
Look for some of the seeds to germinate in a few weeks, with more seedlings showing up for the next few years. Don’t attempt to transplant wild plants, as the long taproots make transplantation nearly impossible. To help keep the plant under control, you may want to try growing it in a container. Just ensure it is deep enough for the taproot.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Tansy is an herbaceous perennial plant, often deemed as a weed. Tansy plants are common in the United States, particularly temperate regions. The scientific name for common tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, may be an assertion to its toxic properties and invasive nature. If you are wondering, “what is tansy,” you have probably seen it frequently. Tansy plants are found growing wild in meadows, roadsides, ditches and other natural areas. The weedy herb is also an attractive flowering addition to a cottage or wildflower garden, but watch out or the plant will spread to unwanted areas. Keep an eye on the plant and learn methods on how to keep tansy from taking over the garden.
Common Tansy (Tanacetum Vulgare)
What is tansy? The plant may get three to four feet tall and sports button-like yellow flowers on top of stiff stems. The leaves are ferny and alternate on reddish purple stems. The flowers grow in clusters and are from ¼ to ½ inch in diameter. Common tansy plants reproduce prolifically from seed or rhizomes. Using tansy in landscaping borders with other flowers combines its ease of care with the sunny blooms for an upbeat perennial plant. Tansy plants need little supplemental care, other than the occasional watering. Their hardiness means they thrive in most areas of the country but they can become a nuisance if not managed carefully. You should probably not plant tansy in most areas of the United States. It is a noxious weed in 45 of the States and can push out natural vegetation. If you already have the plant and like its appearance, allow it to reseed in a controlled area. Let’s learn more about the control of tansy plants.
How to Keep Tansy from Taking Over
Tansy is a Class C noxious weed in parts of the western states. The plants were originally introduced as decorative flowers and then became “naturalized” in the U.S. The plant was once an important part of herb gardens and used to treat colds and fevers. Crushed seeds emit a strong odor and the oil has powerful properties, which may become toxic if ingested in large quantities. Tansy will spread quickly from its seed and less invasively from rhizomes. The seed is viable in soil for quite some time, so it is best to cut off the flower heads before they turn into seeds.
Where you have tansy in landscaping, use cultivation practices to prevent spread. Dig out clumps of the plant where you do not wish to have it and keep old plant matter cleaned up to prevent self-seeding. Hand pulling the plants as you would pull weeds can prevent the plant from spreading. You should do this with gloves, as there have been some reports of contact toxicity. It is unlikely to be toxic to grazing animals, but minimize the spread by mowing areas with the plant when they are in bud stage.
Common Tansy (Tanacetum Vulgare)
What is tansy? The plant may get three to four feet tall and sports button-like yellow flowers on top of stiff stems. The leaves are ferny and alternate on reddish purple stems. The flowers grow in clusters and are from ¼ to ½ inch in diameter. Common tansy plants reproduce prolifically from seed or rhizomes. Using tansy in landscaping borders with other flowers combines its ease of care with the sunny blooms for an upbeat perennial plant. Tansy plants need little supplemental care, other than the occasional watering. Their hardiness means they thrive in most areas of the country but they can become a nuisance if not managed carefully. You should probably not plant tansy in most areas of the United States. It is a noxious weed in 45 of the States and can push out natural vegetation. If you already have the plant and like its appearance, allow it to reseed in a controlled area. Let’s learn more about the control of tansy plants.
How to Keep Tansy from Taking Over
Tansy is a Class C noxious weed in parts of the western states. The plants were originally introduced as decorative flowers and then became “naturalized” in the U.S. The plant was once an important part of herb gardens and used to treat colds and fevers. Crushed seeds emit a strong odor and the oil has powerful properties, which may become toxic if ingested in large quantities. Tansy will spread quickly from its seed and less invasively from rhizomes. The seed is viable in soil for quite some time, so it is best to cut off the flower heads before they turn into seeds.
Where you have tansy in landscaping, use cultivation practices to prevent spread. Dig out clumps of the plant where you do not wish to have it and keep old plant matter cleaned up to prevent self-seeding. Hand pulling the plants as you would pull weeds can prevent the plant from spreading. You should do this with gloves, as there have been some reports of contact toxicity. It is unlikely to be toxic to grazing animals, but minimize the spread by mowing areas with the plant when they are in bud stage.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a European perennial herb that was once used heavily in natural medicine. It has become naturalized in many parts of North America and is even considered a noxious weed in areas like Colorado, Montana, Wyoming, and Washington State. Despite this, tansy is a pretty little plant that adds potassium to soil while repelling several annoying insect species. Once you have tansy seeds, however, learning how to grow tansy will be the least of your problems. This plant is a prolific re-seeder and can become quite a nuisance in some gardens.
Tansy Plant Info
The herb garden was the center of the home in the Middle Ages and eras prior. Today’s tansy uses in the garden are much more limited due to modern pharmaceuticals and different tastes over the years. However, this forgotten herb provides ornamental appeal and still packs all the medicinal and culinary wallop of the past. It is up to us to rediscover the healthy, natural tricks of our ancestors and decide for ourselves if herbal lore is useful to us today or simply an attractive addition to the perennial garden.
Tansy herb plants are easy to grow and have lovely flowers and foliage. They are rhizomatous perennial members of the Daisy family and may achieve 3 to 4 feet in height. The foliage is attractive with delicate fern-like leaves; however, they smell rather strongly and are not an aromatic delight. Tiny yellow button-like blooms appear in late summer into fall. Unlike most daisy members, the flowers lack ray petals and are instead discs of less than 3/4 of an inch in width. These are the source of the seeds, which have become a nuisance in many northwest gardens. Numerous fine seeds are produced on the numerous flower heads and readily germinate and start new plants. If any tansy plant info is taken away from this reading, it should be the importance of deadheading to prevent a rampant takeover of the plant in your garden.
How to Grow Tansy Herbs
In areas where the plants are a nuisance, growing tansy herbs may not be the best idea unless you are up for constant deadheading or can contain the plant in another manner. That being said, tansy herb plants are unfussy, reliable perennials that thrive in any area with at least 6 hours of sunlight. This makes them perfect for either full or partial sun locations. Once established, tansy is drought tolerant and thrives in a variety of soils. In early spring, cut plants back to within a few inches of the ground to force compact growth and a clean appearance. If growing tansy herbs from seed, plant in fall in well worked soil to allow seed to experience cold stratification.
Tansy Uses in the Garden
Tansy makes an excellent companion plant for many types of vegetables, as it contains compounds which repel certain insect pests. It has a camphor-like scent that not only sends insects running, but also has uses in killing parasites internally in both humans and animals. Tansy adds potassium to the soil, one of the macro-nutrients all plants require for good health. Use it in kitchen herb containers to flavor stews, salads, omelets and more. It is also lovely when added amongst other herbs, both for the little flowers and the elegant feathery foliage. In years gone by, tansy was also used as a natural textile dye. Tansy herb plants also make fine additions to everlasting bouquets, as the flower heads dry easily and hold both shape and color.
Tansy Plant Info
The herb garden was the center of the home in the Middle Ages and eras prior. Today’s tansy uses in the garden are much more limited due to modern pharmaceuticals and different tastes over the years. However, this forgotten herb provides ornamental appeal and still packs all the medicinal and culinary wallop of the past. It is up to us to rediscover the healthy, natural tricks of our ancestors and decide for ourselves if herbal lore is useful to us today or simply an attractive addition to the perennial garden.
Tansy herb plants are easy to grow and have lovely flowers and foliage. They are rhizomatous perennial members of the Daisy family and may achieve 3 to 4 feet in height. The foliage is attractive with delicate fern-like leaves; however, they smell rather strongly and are not an aromatic delight. Tiny yellow button-like blooms appear in late summer into fall. Unlike most daisy members, the flowers lack ray petals and are instead discs of less than 3/4 of an inch in width. These are the source of the seeds, which have become a nuisance in many northwest gardens. Numerous fine seeds are produced on the numerous flower heads and readily germinate and start new plants. If any tansy plant info is taken away from this reading, it should be the importance of deadheading to prevent a rampant takeover of the plant in your garden.
How to Grow Tansy Herbs
In areas where the plants are a nuisance, growing tansy herbs may not be the best idea unless you are up for constant deadheading or can contain the plant in another manner. That being said, tansy herb plants are unfussy, reliable perennials that thrive in any area with at least 6 hours of sunlight. This makes them perfect for either full or partial sun locations. Once established, tansy is drought tolerant and thrives in a variety of soils. In early spring, cut plants back to within a few inches of the ground to force compact growth and a clean appearance. If growing tansy herbs from seed, plant in fall in well worked soil to allow seed to experience cold stratification.
Tansy Uses in the Garden
Tansy makes an excellent companion plant for many types of vegetables, as it contains compounds which repel certain insect pests. It has a camphor-like scent that not only sends insects running, but also has uses in killing parasites internally in both humans and animals. Tansy adds potassium to the soil, one of the macro-nutrients all plants require for good health. Use it in kitchen herb containers to flavor stews, salads, omelets and more. It is also lovely when added amongst other herbs, both for the little flowers and the elegant feathery foliage. In years gone by, tansy was also used as a natural textile dye. Tansy herb plants also make fine additions to everlasting bouquets, as the flower heads dry easily and hold both shape and color.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
There’s a thorn in the side of anyone trying to attain the perfect lawn and its name is self heal weed. Self heal (Prunella vulgaris) is found throughout the United States and can be aggressive in turf grass. The question then is how to get rid of self heal weed and get back the lawn that all the neighbors envy.
Self Heal Weed Control
Self heal is also referred to as healall, carpenter’s weed, wild sage or just prunella weed. but whatever you call it, the fact remains that it thrives in grassy areas and is most certainly the bane of the obsessive lawn manicurist. Managing self heal plants, or rather eradicating them, is a difficult task. The weed is stoloniferous with a creeping habitat and shallow fibrous root system. Prior to managing self heal plants, you need to make a clear identification of the weed since all weeds are not created equal and control methods will vary. Prunella can be seen growing in dense patches most often in grassland, lawns and wood clearings. Stems of self heal weed are square and slightly hairy when immature, becoming smooth as the plant ages. Its leaves are opposite, smooth, oval and slightly pointed at the tip and may be minimally haired to smooth. Self heal’s creeping stems root easily at the nodes, resulting in an aggressive fibrous, matted root system. The blooms of this weed are dark violet to purple and about ½ inch in height.
How to Get Rid of Self Heal
Cultural methods for control alone will make it difficult to eradicate this weed. Hand removal can be attempted. It will be necessary to make repeated attempts at hand removal to keep this weed in check. Improving turf growing conditions to stimulate competitiveness can retard some self heal weeds as well. Self heal weed grows beneath mowing levels that are recommended and will, therefore, just pop back up. Additionally, areas of heavy foot traffic can actually encourage the growth of self heal because the stems will root at the nodes at ground level.
Otherwise, self heal weed control turns towards chemical control strategies. Products used for fighting self heal weed should contain 2,4-D, Cargentrazone, or Mesotrion for post emergence and MCPP, MCPA and dicamba for existing weed growth, for optimal results. A systemic weed control program that carries the herbicide throughout the turf and, hence, through the weed, killing the weed, root and all is recommended. Repeated applications will be necessary with the most favorable times for application in the fall and again in the spring during peak bloom.
Self Heal Weed Control
Self heal is also referred to as healall, carpenter’s weed, wild sage or just prunella weed. but whatever you call it, the fact remains that it thrives in grassy areas and is most certainly the bane of the obsessive lawn manicurist. Managing self heal plants, or rather eradicating them, is a difficult task. The weed is stoloniferous with a creeping habitat and shallow fibrous root system. Prior to managing self heal plants, you need to make a clear identification of the weed since all weeds are not created equal and control methods will vary. Prunella can be seen growing in dense patches most often in grassland, lawns and wood clearings. Stems of self heal weed are square and slightly hairy when immature, becoming smooth as the plant ages. Its leaves are opposite, smooth, oval and slightly pointed at the tip and may be minimally haired to smooth. Self heal’s creeping stems root easily at the nodes, resulting in an aggressive fibrous, matted root system. The blooms of this weed are dark violet to purple and about ½ inch in height.
How to Get Rid of Self Heal
Cultural methods for control alone will make it difficult to eradicate this weed. Hand removal can be attempted. It will be necessary to make repeated attempts at hand removal to keep this weed in check. Improving turf growing conditions to stimulate competitiveness can retard some self heal weeds as well. Self heal weed grows beneath mowing levels that are recommended and will, therefore, just pop back up. Additionally, areas of heavy foot traffic can actually encourage the growth of self heal because the stems will root at the nodes at ground level.
Otherwise, self heal weed control turns towards chemical control strategies. Products used for fighting self heal weed should contain 2,4-D, Cargentrazone, or Mesotrion for post emergence and MCPP, MCPA and dicamba for existing weed growth, for optimal results. A systemic weed control program that carries the herbicide throughout the turf and, hence, through the weed, killing the weed, root and all is recommended. Repeated applications will be necessary with the most favorable times for application in the fall and again in the spring during peak bloom.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Purslane herb is often considered to be a weed in many gardens, but if you get to know this fast-growing, succulent plant, you’ll discover that it is both edible and delicious. Growing purslane in the garden can be beneficial for your health and taste buds.
What is Purslane?
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an herb that is native to Asia, but has spread all across the world. It is commonly found in cleared areas. The purslane herb has red stems and fleshy, green leaves. The flowers are a bright yellow. Purslane is high in Omega-3 fatty acids and contains vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin B, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. All in all, edible purslane is a very healthy plant to add to your diet.
Growing Purslane
The hardest part about growing purslane is finding it. Once you have decided to grow purslane, you may find that although you have been pulling it out of your flower beds for years, it has suddenly disappeared. Once you do find a purslane plant, you can either harvest some seeds or trim off a few stems. All purslane needs to grow is part to full sun and clear ground. The plants aren’t picky about soil type or nutrition, but purslane does tend to grow better in drier soil. If you decide to plant purslane seeds, simply scatter the seeds over the area where you plan on growing the purslane. Don’t cover the seeds with soil. Purslane seeds need light to germinate so they must stay on the surface of the soil. If you are using purslane cuttings, lay them on the ground where you plan on growing purslane. Water the stems and they should take root in the soil in a few days.
Care of Purslane Plant
The care of purslane is very simple after it starts growing. You don’t need to do anything. The same traits that make it a weed also makes it an easy to care for herb. Make sure to harvest it regularly and be aware that it can become invasive. Harvesting before it develops flowers will help cut down on its spread. Also, keep in mind that purslane herb is an annual. While the chances are high that it will reseed itself, you may want to collect some seeds at the end of the season so that you have some on hand for next year, rather than hunting for a new purslane plant. If you decide to harvest wild purslane instead of growing purslane, make sure that you only harvest purslane that has not been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
What is Purslane?
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an herb that is native to Asia, but has spread all across the world. It is commonly found in cleared areas. The purslane herb has red stems and fleshy, green leaves. The flowers are a bright yellow. Purslane is high in Omega-3 fatty acids and contains vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin B, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. All in all, edible purslane is a very healthy plant to add to your diet.
Growing Purslane
The hardest part about growing purslane is finding it. Once you have decided to grow purslane, you may find that although you have been pulling it out of your flower beds for years, it has suddenly disappeared. Once you do find a purslane plant, you can either harvest some seeds or trim off a few stems. All purslane needs to grow is part to full sun and clear ground. The plants aren’t picky about soil type or nutrition, but purslane does tend to grow better in drier soil. If you decide to plant purslane seeds, simply scatter the seeds over the area where you plan on growing the purslane. Don’t cover the seeds with soil. Purslane seeds need light to germinate so they must stay on the surface of the soil. If you are using purslane cuttings, lay them on the ground where you plan on growing purslane. Water the stems and they should take root in the soil in a few days.
Care of Purslane Plant
The care of purslane is very simple after it starts growing. You don’t need to do anything. The same traits that make it a weed also makes it an easy to care for herb. Make sure to harvest it regularly and be aware that it can become invasive. Harvesting before it develops flowers will help cut down on its spread. Also, keep in mind that purslane herb is an annual. While the chances are high that it will reseed itself, you may want to collect some seeds at the end of the season so that you have some on hand for next year, rather than hunting for a new purslane plant. If you decide to harvest wild purslane instead of growing purslane, make sure that you only harvest purslane that has not been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
1
1
