文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Weeds are really just plants that have evolved to self-propagate rapidly. To most people they are a nuisance but to some, who recognize they are just plants, a boon. Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is one such weed with a variety of beneficial uses from a food source to a medicinal treatment to nettle garden fertilizer. The nutrients in stinging nettle fertilizer are those same nutrients the plant contains which are beneficial to the human body such as many minerals, flavinoids, essential amino acids, proteins and vitamins. A nettle leaf plant food will have:
Chlorophyll
Nitrogen
Iron
Potassium
Copper
Zinc
Magnesium
Calcium
These nutrients, along with Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combine together to create a tonic and immune builder for both the garden and the body.
How to Make Stinging Nettle Manure (Fertilizer)
Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method. Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals. Quick method: For the quick method, steep 1 ounce of nettles in 1 cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method. Long range method: You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill three-quarters of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process. Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Using Nettles as Fertilizer
Finally, strain out the nettles and dilute the concoction at one part fertilizer to 10 parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. Undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition. When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer.
This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders. Start with low concentrations and move on from there. Use some caution when using nettles as fertilizer since the mixture will undoubtedly still contain prickles, which can be quite painful. This free, albeit somewhat stinky food is easy to make and can continue to be topped off through the year by adding more leaves and water. At the end of the growing season, simply add the nettle dregs to the compost bin and put the whole process to bed until spring nettle picking time.
Chlorophyll
Nitrogen
Iron
Potassium
Copper
Zinc
Magnesium
Calcium
These nutrients, along with Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combine together to create a tonic and immune builder for both the garden and the body.
How to Make Stinging Nettle Manure (Fertilizer)
Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method. Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals. Quick method: For the quick method, steep 1 ounce of nettles in 1 cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method. Long range method: You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill three-quarters of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process. Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Using Nettles as Fertilizer
Finally, strain out the nettles and dilute the concoction at one part fertilizer to 10 parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. Undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition. When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer.
This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders. Start with low concentrations and move on from there. Use some caution when using nettles as fertilizer since the mixture will undoubtedly still contain prickles, which can be quite painful. This free, albeit somewhat stinky food is easy to make and can continue to be topped off through the year by adding more leaves and water. At the end of the growing season, simply add the nettle dregs to the compost bin and put the whole process to bed until spring nettle picking time.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Getting rid of horsetail weed can be a nightmare once it’s become established in the landscape. So what are horsetail weeds? Keep reading to learn more about how to get rid of horsetail weed in gardens.
What are Horsetail Weeds?
The horsetail weed family (Equisetum spp.), closely related to the fern family, contains over 30 ancient species of plants. At one time, horsetail was the dominant plant on the earth and was said to have grown to a very large size. Today, there are two forms of this perennial plant.
One is known as “scouring rush,” and has no leaves but instead has hollow and jointed stems. At one point in time, this plant was not considered obnoxious and was actually used extensively. Early settlers used the stems of this horsetail plant to clean pots and pans. English cabinetmakers used the stems to polish wood. The second type of horsetail plant has many slender, green, jointed branches around jointed and hollow stems. Its appearance resembles a horse’s tail and is sometimes called a “mare’s tail.” This horsetail was also used by ancient civilizations to stop bleeding and heal wounds. Horsetail is a perennial, flowerless weed that can be very toxic to animals, especially horses, if eaten in large amounts. Horsetail spreads by spores that are carried by the wind. Horsetail can be found in ditches, around ponds, along roadsides, in fields and even sometimes in the garden.
How to Get Rid of Horsetail
Although horsetail is commonly found in ditches, along roads, by ponds or even in fields, it can also find its way to your garden area. Getting rid of horsetail weed in gardens and other areas of the landscape is no easy task. Horsetail weed in gardens can be a major problem because this plant has a tremendous root system with rhizomes. There is no specific horsetail weed killer and many chemical options are just not very effective. In small areas, it may be possible to dig the plant up by the roots. It is imperative that all roots are removed, or the weed will reappear. Another option for control involves smothering the plant with a large sheet of plastic. Leave the plastic on for at least one garden season. The weeds under the plastic should die.
The best method to keep this weed from taking over your garden is to practice prevention. Improve areas in your landscape that don’t drain well and keep tilling around horsetail to a minimal, as this will only spread the spores.
What are Horsetail Weeds?
The horsetail weed family (Equisetum spp.), closely related to the fern family, contains over 30 ancient species of plants. At one time, horsetail was the dominant plant on the earth and was said to have grown to a very large size. Today, there are two forms of this perennial plant.
One is known as “scouring rush,” and has no leaves but instead has hollow and jointed stems. At one point in time, this plant was not considered obnoxious and was actually used extensively. Early settlers used the stems of this horsetail plant to clean pots and pans. English cabinetmakers used the stems to polish wood. The second type of horsetail plant has many slender, green, jointed branches around jointed and hollow stems. Its appearance resembles a horse’s tail and is sometimes called a “mare’s tail.” This horsetail was also used by ancient civilizations to stop bleeding and heal wounds. Horsetail is a perennial, flowerless weed that can be very toxic to animals, especially horses, if eaten in large amounts. Horsetail spreads by spores that are carried by the wind. Horsetail can be found in ditches, around ponds, along roadsides, in fields and even sometimes in the garden.
How to Get Rid of Horsetail
Although horsetail is commonly found in ditches, along roads, by ponds or even in fields, it can also find its way to your garden area. Getting rid of horsetail weed in gardens and other areas of the landscape is no easy task. Horsetail weed in gardens can be a major problem because this plant has a tremendous root system with rhizomes. There is no specific horsetail weed killer and many chemical options are just not very effective. In small areas, it may be possible to dig the plant up by the roots. It is imperative that all roots are removed, or the weed will reappear. Another option for control involves smothering the plant with a large sheet of plastic. Leave the plastic on for at least one garden season. The weeds under the plastic should die.
The best method to keep this weed from taking over your garden is to practice prevention. Improve areas in your landscape that don’t drain well and keep tilling around horsetail to a minimal, as this will only spread the spores.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill weed is an essential flavoring for pickling. The feathery, fresh young leaves add a delicate flavor to fish, potatoes and sauces and yield thick stems at maturity. The plant bolts in high heat and produces umbrella-shaped flower appendages topped with hard little seeds. The herb literally grows “like a weed,” which is the genesis of the name dill weed. Learn how to harvest dill and how to store dill weed to keep the delicate flavor around all year.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
How to Harvest Dill
Dill weed is preserved by drying the leaves, seeds or entire stem of the herb. Use pruners or sharp scissors when harvesting dill weed for drying. Cut just the leafy foliage or remove entire stems to dry for canning and seeds. Remove the stems when the seeds are brown and ripe. Dill flavor is best when it just begins to flower. Wash the herbs after harvesting dill weed to remove dirt and insects.
How to Dry Dill
Dill weed refers to the greenish blue leaves of the herb, while dill seeds are just the seeds of the dill plant. The overall name of dill is used to describe the entire plant. Dill weed is delicate even when fresh and should be added to dishes at the end of the cooking process to preserve the light, grassy flavor. Dry dill weed leaves lose some of their pungency and require more of the seasoning to produce the same flavor profile as fresh. Dill seeds are more flavorful and are often used where a stronger dill flavor is desired, such as in pickling.
Drying Dill Seeds
Drying dill seeds actually accentuates their flavor and ensures a supply of seasoning for the next pickle-canning. You can bunch dry dill seeds by tying the stems together and hanging the herbs upside down. Keep the bunches lightly bundled so air can circulate. Cover the bunches with paper bags that have been liberally punched with holes on the side. The bags will catch the seeds as they dry, along with any pieces of leaf.
Drying Dill Weed
Dill leaves or dill weed are used dried as a crushed aromatic. The flavor is very light but the aroma is strong and adds complexity to foods. Dry dill by clipping off the individual leaflets and laying them in one layer on a dehydrator sheet or bakers rack. The leaves will dry in less than a day in a food dehydrator but will take several days on a baker’s rack in a warm, dry location. Turn the leaves every day so they are evenly exposed to the warm air.
How to Store Dill Weed
Crumble or crush the leaflets after they are completely dry. Herbs must be stored in a cool, dark area to avoid diminishing the color and flavor. Dry dill weed will keep for four to six months and can be used just like fresh dill leaves.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Yarrow, a perennial plant with feathery leaves that may be both a blessing and a curse in the home landscape, is often called yarrow weed. Ornamental or common yarrow is not native, but Western yarrow is indigenous to North America. Both have a spreading habit and extremely tolerant, hardy natures. It’s the spreading habit that is of most concern to homeowners. Once the plant is in your yard, it’s there to stay and it can be very difficult to remove yarrow.
What is Yarrow?
Yarrow is a low-growing plant that produces flower stalks four times its foliage height. The plant is recognized by the feathery almost fern-like green foliage. Each leaf is between 1 and 6 inches long. Each plant can produce several flower stalks covered by fine hairs. Flower heads are borne in corymbs or umbrella shaped clusters. Each flower has five colored flowers surrounding 10 to 20 pale yellow florets. The flowers are commonly white or soft pink but now come in yellows, coral and red.
Is Yarrow an Invasive Weed?
The answer to that question is complex but really boils down to opinion. Many people appreciate the easy care nature of yarrow and there are several new cultivars that are introducing new colors and sizes to the home landscape. Yarrow produces season-long umbrella shaped flower clusters that enliven the garden. There are also those who find the plant colonizing entire beds and even the grass. That would classify it as an invasive weed. In these gardener’s minds, yarrow control is paramount. Yarrow is an extremely adaptable plant. It can grow on any soil and in many conditions. It spreads from its rhizomes. When the plant is disturbed and small piece of rhizome can become a whole new plant. The clustered flowers on their 3-foot tall stocks produce thousands of seeds. The tiny seeds spread by wind and can remain viable in soil for up to nine years. The longevity of the seeds makes complete yarrow control impossible.
How to Remove Yarrow
Killing Yarrow without Chemicals
It’s much nicer to use the term yarrow control but the goal is the same — to eliminate yarrow plants. Digging and hoeing areas where yarrow has spread can remove some of the rhizomes but mechanical control is only effective if it goes down 12 inches and removes every speck of yarrow weed. Providing superior care to the lawn will make it thick and prevent some of the spread of the pest.
Chemical Yarrow Control
There are several chemicals available for killing yarrow. They must be used during the period of growth from spring to autumn. Dicamba, chlorsulfuron, clopyralid, MCPA, triclopyr and 2,4D are all listed as useful for yarrow control by the University of Illinois. Yarrow will require several treatments over the growing season, so it’s best to define the problem early and apply controls as soon as possible. Remember to follow all precautions listed by the chemical manufacturer.
What is Yarrow?
Yarrow is a low-growing plant that produces flower stalks four times its foliage height. The plant is recognized by the feathery almost fern-like green foliage. Each leaf is between 1 and 6 inches long. Each plant can produce several flower stalks covered by fine hairs. Flower heads are borne in corymbs or umbrella shaped clusters. Each flower has five colored flowers surrounding 10 to 20 pale yellow florets. The flowers are commonly white or soft pink but now come in yellows, coral and red.
Is Yarrow an Invasive Weed?
The answer to that question is complex but really boils down to opinion. Many people appreciate the easy care nature of yarrow and there are several new cultivars that are introducing new colors and sizes to the home landscape. Yarrow produces season-long umbrella shaped flower clusters that enliven the garden. There are also those who find the plant colonizing entire beds and even the grass. That would classify it as an invasive weed. In these gardener’s minds, yarrow control is paramount. Yarrow is an extremely adaptable plant. It can grow on any soil and in many conditions. It spreads from its rhizomes. When the plant is disturbed and small piece of rhizome can become a whole new plant. The clustered flowers on their 3-foot tall stocks produce thousands of seeds. The tiny seeds spread by wind and can remain viable in soil for up to nine years. The longevity of the seeds makes complete yarrow control impossible.
How to Remove Yarrow
Killing Yarrow without Chemicals
It’s much nicer to use the term yarrow control but the goal is the same — to eliminate yarrow plants. Digging and hoeing areas where yarrow has spread can remove some of the rhizomes but mechanical control is only effective if it goes down 12 inches and removes every speck of yarrow weed. Providing superior care to the lawn will make it thick and prevent some of the spread of the pest.
Chemical Yarrow Control
There are several chemicals available for killing yarrow. They must be used during the period of growth from spring to autumn. Dicamba, chlorsulfuron, clopyralid, MCPA, triclopyr and 2,4D are all listed as useful for yarrow control by the University of Illinois. Yarrow will require several treatments over the growing season, so it’s best to define the problem early and apply controls as soon as possible. Remember to follow all precautions listed by the chemical manufacturer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Plantains are unsightly lawn weeds that thrive in compacted soil and neglected lawns. Plantain weed treatment consists of diligently digging out the plants as they appear and treating the plants with herbicides. Since weed plantain thrives in poorly established lawns, the best prevention is a healthy lawn. Keep reading to learn more about plantain control.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Originating from Eurasia, motherwort herb (Leonurus cardiaca) is now naturalized throughout southern Canada and east of the Rocky Mountains and more commonly deemed a weed with a rapid spreading habitat. Motherwort herb growing commonly occurs in neglected gardens, open woods, floodplains, riverbanks, meadows, fields, riverbanks, and along roadsides; really just about anywhere. But what is motherwort besides a rather invasive plant? Keep reading to find out.
Motherwort Plant Info
Motherwort plant info lists its other common names of cowthwort, lion’s ear, and lion’s tail. Motherwort herb growing in the wild appears as a sturdy stemmed perennial of up to 5 feet tall with pink to pale purple clustered flowers of six to 15 axils, or spaces between the leaf and stem, and prickly sepals. Like other members of the mint family, the foliage, when crushed, has a distinct odor. Flowers appear from July through September.
Motherwort prefers moist, rich soils and hails from the mint family, Labiatae, with the same growing propensity of most mints too. Motherwort herb growing occurs via seed reproduction and spreads through rhizomes to form large colonies. Although shallow, the root system is very extensive. Motherwort herbs may occur in either sun or dense shade, and as mentioned in a plethora of areas. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate. Attempts to control rampant motherwort plants may include improving soil drainage and mowing close to the ground each time the shoots erupt from the soil.
Motherwort Uses
The genus of motherwort’s botanical name of Leonurus cardiaca, is descriptive of its ragged edged leaves, which resemble the tip of a lion’s tail. The species name of ‘cardiaca’ (meaning “for the heart”) is in reference to its early medicinal use for heart ailments – stimulating the heart muscle, promoting blood circulation, treating arteriosclerosis, dissolving blood clots and treating rapid heartbeat. Other motherwort uses are purported to be remedial for nerves, dizziness and “disorders of women” such as menopause and following childbirth. Motherwort herb growing is said to bring on scanty or absent menstruation and to relieve water retention, PMS, and stress or tension resulting from painful menstruation. Motherwort is prepared as either a tincture or tea for relief from any of these ailments. A caution regarding motherwort is that it contains lemon scented oil, which can cause photosensitivity if eaten and also contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
How to Care for Motherwort Plants
Provided that after reading my repeated commentary regarding how invasive motherwort is, you still wish to grow your own, the “how to” care for motherwort is very simple. Motherwort is an extremely hardy weed or herb, depending upon who you ask and only requires sun to light shade, most any soil type and enough water to keep moist. Motherwort herb growing will occur and steadily increase with seed broadcasting. Once the herb has laid roots, continued growth of the motherwort colony is guaranteed, and then some! Last warning, motherwort herb is a prolific and unbridled easy-to-grow plant with a propensity to take over the garden – so gardener beware. (That said, you may be able to control its rampant growth by growing the herb in containers much like its cousin the mint plant.)
Motherwort Plant Info
Motherwort plant info lists its other common names of cowthwort, lion’s ear, and lion’s tail. Motherwort herb growing in the wild appears as a sturdy stemmed perennial of up to 5 feet tall with pink to pale purple clustered flowers of six to 15 axils, or spaces between the leaf and stem, and prickly sepals. Like other members of the mint family, the foliage, when crushed, has a distinct odor. Flowers appear from July through September.
Motherwort prefers moist, rich soils and hails from the mint family, Labiatae, with the same growing propensity of most mints too. Motherwort herb growing occurs via seed reproduction and spreads through rhizomes to form large colonies. Although shallow, the root system is very extensive. Motherwort herbs may occur in either sun or dense shade, and as mentioned in a plethora of areas. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate. Attempts to control rampant motherwort plants may include improving soil drainage and mowing close to the ground each time the shoots erupt from the soil.
Motherwort Uses
The genus of motherwort’s botanical name of Leonurus cardiaca, is descriptive of its ragged edged leaves, which resemble the tip of a lion’s tail. The species name of ‘cardiaca’ (meaning “for the heart”) is in reference to its early medicinal use for heart ailments – stimulating the heart muscle, promoting blood circulation, treating arteriosclerosis, dissolving blood clots and treating rapid heartbeat. Other motherwort uses are purported to be remedial for nerves, dizziness and “disorders of women” such as menopause and following childbirth. Motherwort herb growing is said to bring on scanty or absent menstruation and to relieve water retention, PMS, and stress or tension resulting from painful menstruation. Motherwort is prepared as either a tincture or tea for relief from any of these ailments. A caution regarding motherwort is that it contains lemon scented oil, which can cause photosensitivity if eaten and also contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
How to Care for Motherwort Plants
Provided that after reading my repeated commentary regarding how invasive motherwort is, you still wish to grow your own, the “how to” care for motherwort is very simple. Motherwort is an extremely hardy weed or herb, depending upon who you ask and only requires sun to light shade, most any soil type and enough water to keep moist. Motherwort herb growing will occur and steadily increase with seed broadcasting. Once the herb has laid roots, continued growth of the motherwort colony is guaranteed, and then some! Last warning, motherwort herb is a prolific and unbridled easy-to-grow plant with a propensity to take over the garden – so gardener beware. (That said, you may be able to control its rampant growth by growing the herb in containers much like its cousin the mint plant.)
0
0
求助
Ueca
2017年08月22日
So it turns out that it is not pineapple weed, but rather, it is common yarrow.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Goosegrass (Galium aparine) is an annual weed found in warm season turf grasses. The grass seeds readily and spreads on the wind from lawn to lawn. Find answers to what is goosegrass and learn how to control it in order to grow a healthier lawn. The methods on how to kill goosegrass range from cultural to herbicidal. Goosegrass weed control is essential because the rapidly spreading plant can take over entire areas of the lawn.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
We freely admit that it may be a little odd to have an article about how to grow dandelions. After all, most gardeners consider dandelions a weed and are looking for information on how to remove it from their garden. But, once you get to know a little more about this nutritious plant, you may find yourself also wondering how to grow and harvest dandelion plants for yourself.
Why You Should Be Growing Dandelion Greens
While dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamin, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
How to Grow Dandelions
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of dandelion you can buy.
Some “gourmet” varieties of dandelion include:
Amélioré à Coeur Plein Dandelion
Pissenlit Coeur Plein Ameliore Dandelion
Improved Broad Leaved Dandelion
Arlington Dandelion
Improved Thick-Leaved Dandelion a.k.a Dandelion Ameliore
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety such as the ones listed above. The right variety can make dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard. Second, try growing dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves. You can keep your dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.Harvesting Dandelions
Much like other greens, dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference. Another benefit of growing dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year. Never harvest dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Why You Should Be Growing Dandelion Greens
While dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamin, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
How to Grow Dandelions
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of dandelion you can buy.
Some “gourmet” varieties of dandelion include:
Amélioré à Coeur Plein Dandelion
Pissenlit Coeur Plein Ameliore Dandelion
Improved Broad Leaved Dandelion
Arlington Dandelion
Improved Thick-Leaved Dandelion a.k.a Dandelion Ameliore
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety such as the ones listed above. The right variety can make dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard. Second, try growing dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves. You can keep your dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.Harvesting Dandelions
Much like other greens, dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference. Another benefit of growing dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year. Never harvest dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Considered by some to be just an invasive weed and by others as a culinary delight, cardoon plants are a member of the thistle family, and in appearance, are very similar to the globe artichoke; indeed it is also referred to as the artichoke thistle. So what is cardoon — weed or useful medicinal or edible plant? Growing cardoon attains a height of up to 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide at maturity, depending upon the cultivar. Large spiny perennials, cardoon plants flower from August to September and its flower buds may be eaten just as the artichoke’s are. 
Artichoke Thistle Info
Native to the Mediterranean, cardoon plants (Cynara cardunculus) are now found in dry grassy areas of California and Australia, where it is considered a weed. Originally cultivated in Southern Europe as a vegetable, growing cardoon was brought to the American kitchen garden by the Quakers in the early 1790’s. Today, cardoon plants are grown for their ornamental properties, such as the silvery grey, serrated foliage and bright purple flowers. The architectural drama of the foliage provides year round interest in herb garden and along borders. The vibrant blooms are also great attractors of bees and butterflies, which pollinate the hermaphroditic flowers.
The “How Tos” of Cardoon Planting
Cardoon planting should occur via seed indoors in late winter or early spring, and seedlings may be transplanted outside after the danger of frost has passed. Mature cardoon plants should be divided and cardoon planting of the offsets accomplished in early spring, leaving plenty of space between for growth. Although cardoons can grow in nutritionally poor soil (highly acidic or alkaline), they prefer full sun and deep, rich soil. As mentioned, they can be divided or planted by seed propagation. Cardoon seeds are viable for around seven years or so once they ripen from September to October and are collected.
Harvesting Cardoon
Other artichoke thistle info reinforces the cardoon size; it is much larger and hardier than globe artichokes. While some people eat the tender flower buds, most folks eat the fleshy, thick leaf stalks, which require plentiful irrigation for healthy growth. When harvesting cardoon leaf stalks, they need to be blanched first. Strangely, this is done by tying the plant into a bundle, wrapping with straw and then mounded with soil and left for one month. Cardoon plants being harvested for culinary purposes are treated as annuals and are harvested during the winter months – in areas of mild winters, from November to February and then re-sowed in early spring. The tender leaves and stalks can be cooked or eaten fresh in salads while the blanched portions are used like celery in stews and soups. The wild cardoon’s stem is covered with small, almost invisible spines that can be quite painful, so gloves are useful when attempting to harvest. However, a mostly spineless cultivated variety has been bred for the home gardener.
Other Uses for Cardoon Plants
Beyond its edibility, growing cardoon may also be used as a medicinal plant. Some people say it has mild laxative qualities. It also contains cynarin, which has cholesterol-lowering effects, although most cynarin is garnered from the globe artichoke due to its comparative ease of cultivation. Bio-diesel fuel research is now focusing on cardoon plants as a source of alternate oil processed from its seeds.
Artichoke Thistle Info
Native to the Mediterranean, cardoon plants (Cynara cardunculus) are now found in dry grassy areas of California and Australia, where it is considered a weed. Originally cultivated in Southern Europe as a vegetable, growing cardoon was brought to the American kitchen garden by the Quakers in the early 1790’s. Today, cardoon plants are grown for their ornamental properties, such as the silvery grey, serrated foliage and bright purple flowers. The architectural drama of the foliage provides year round interest in herb garden and along borders. The vibrant blooms are also great attractors of bees and butterflies, which pollinate the hermaphroditic flowers.
The “How Tos” of Cardoon Planting
Cardoon planting should occur via seed indoors in late winter or early spring, and seedlings may be transplanted outside after the danger of frost has passed. Mature cardoon plants should be divided and cardoon planting of the offsets accomplished in early spring, leaving plenty of space between for growth. Although cardoons can grow in nutritionally poor soil (highly acidic or alkaline), they prefer full sun and deep, rich soil. As mentioned, they can be divided or planted by seed propagation. Cardoon seeds are viable for around seven years or so once they ripen from September to October and are collected.
Harvesting Cardoon
Other artichoke thistle info reinforces the cardoon size; it is much larger and hardier than globe artichokes. While some people eat the tender flower buds, most folks eat the fleshy, thick leaf stalks, which require plentiful irrigation for healthy growth. When harvesting cardoon leaf stalks, they need to be blanched first. Strangely, this is done by tying the plant into a bundle, wrapping with straw and then mounded with soil and left for one month. Cardoon plants being harvested for culinary purposes are treated as annuals and are harvested during the winter months – in areas of mild winters, from November to February and then re-sowed in early spring. The tender leaves and stalks can be cooked or eaten fresh in salads while the blanched portions are used like celery in stews and soups. The wild cardoon’s stem is covered with small, almost invisible spines that can be quite painful, so gloves are useful when attempting to harvest. However, a mostly spineless cultivated variety has been bred for the home gardener.
Other Uses for Cardoon Plants
Beyond its edibility, growing cardoon may also be used as a medicinal plant. Some people say it has mild laxative qualities. It also contains cynarin, which has cholesterol-lowering effects, although most cynarin is garnered from the globe artichoke due to its comparative ease of cultivation. Bio-diesel fuel research is now focusing on cardoon plants as a source of alternate oil processed from its seeds.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock weeds are troublesome plants that grow in pastures, along ditches and roadsides and in many other disturbed areas across the United States. The weed is recognized by its large, oval or triangular “elephant-ear” leaves. The upper surface of the dark green leaves may be smooth or hairy and the lower leaf surface is typically wooly and pale green. The plant bolts in the second year and can reach heights of 3 to 10 feet. The small flowers, which are numerous, may be lavender, white, purple or pink. Why are burdock weeds so troublesome, and why is burdock management so critical? Read on to find out how to get rid of this weed.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
0
0
sarajordan2993
2017年07月22日
just took this picture of my #purslane (12:35am) - shes all closed up & sleeping . #succulent #weed
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月16日
Family - Fabaceae
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Fields, pastures, waste ground, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Asia.
Other info. - This aggressive weed can be found throughout Missouri growing in the habitats mentioned above. Any traveler driving along a major highway or roadway can see large stands of this plant along the roadside. It was first collected wild in the state in 1938 by Steyermark. The plant was introduced as erosion control, food for cattle and wildlife, and shelter for small animals. This species is very drought resistant and thrives on neglect. Unfortunately, there is no effective control for the plant at this time.
L. cuneata is easy to ID in the field because of its sericeous stems and small white flowers, which have two purple splotches at the base of the standard.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Fields, pastures, waste ground, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Asia.
Other info. - This aggressive weed can be found throughout Missouri growing in the habitats mentioned above. Any traveler driving along a major highway or roadway can see large stands of this plant along the roadside. It was first collected wild in the state in 1938 by Steyermark. The plant was introduced as erosion control, food for cattle and wildlife, and shelter for small animals. This species is very drought resistant and thrives on neglect. Unfortunately, there is no effective control for the plant at this time.
L. cuneata is easy to ID in the field because of its sericeous stems and small white flowers, which have two purple splotches at the base of the standard.
0
0
