文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are typically well-suited to indoor living. They can even adapt to less-than-ideal conditions and tolerate a little bit of neglect. Still, no succulent can survive in subpar conditions forever. Eventually inadequate lighting, incorrect watering, disease or pests will take their toll. Once your plants start to look sickly, you need to act quickly to right the problem. Most sickly succulents come back to life with a few simple changes to their environment or care routine.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Some succulents are better suited for the indoors. Some people prefer those with soft leaves for houseplants. Plants with spiny thorns can hurt if you brush against them. You may also want mini succulents for your indoor houseplants. Below are some of the most popular types of indoor succulents.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Scale insects are small, piercing-sucking insects that often go unnoticed on indoor plants. The adult forms can be attached to leaves, petioles, and stems. They suck plant juices and can cause plants to lose vigor.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Since the insects are often overlooked, the first signs may be yellowing or wilting leaves that may eventually drop. Leaves may also be covered with a clear sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is the insects’ excrement consisting of partially digested sap and may coat the floor and other objects beneath the plant as it spatters down from above. A sticky floor beneath a susceptible plant is a telltale sign that infestation is underway. Under humid conditions, a black mold, called sooty mold, may grow on the honeydew making the leaves look dirty. Closer inspection will reveal small cottony or dome-shaped shells attached to stems and leaves. When pried off with a knifepoint, they may be hollow underneath or house adults and/or eggs. Scale can be differentiated from parts of the plant by scraping. If the structure is green when scraped or cannot be pried off, it is more than likely part of the plant.
Life Cycle
Scale insects have a simple life cycle of egg, nymph (crawler), and adult. Indoors, eggs can be laid any time under the protective shell. The eggs hatch and the crawlers seek out new feeding sites. This crawler stage is when scale is easiest to control. When the crawlers settle, they insert their mouth parts into the plant and begin feeding on the plant's sap. The protective shell develops soon after feeding begins and the insect loses use of its legs. Indoor scales can go through many generations a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects by hand. If caught early, scale insects can be rubbed off by hand, with a discarded toothbrush, or with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Prune out heavily infested portions of the plant.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Monitor plants frequently. When crawlers are noticed, use insecticidal soaps that are formulated to kill insects and not damage plants. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or ultra-refined horticultural oils are effective in controlling both adults and scale crawlers. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to certain plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors. Infested houseplants summered outdoors frequently benefit from the many natural enemies of scale. Be sure to check plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors in fall to be sure they are pest-free.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Since the insects are often overlooked, the first signs may be yellowing or wilting leaves that may eventually drop. Leaves may also be covered with a clear sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is the insects’ excrement consisting of partially digested sap and may coat the floor and other objects beneath the plant as it spatters down from above. A sticky floor beneath a susceptible plant is a telltale sign that infestation is underway. Under humid conditions, a black mold, called sooty mold, may grow on the honeydew making the leaves look dirty. Closer inspection will reveal small cottony or dome-shaped shells attached to stems and leaves. When pried off with a knifepoint, they may be hollow underneath or house adults and/or eggs. Scale can be differentiated from parts of the plant by scraping. If the structure is green when scraped or cannot be pried off, it is more than likely part of the plant.
Life Cycle
Scale insects have a simple life cycle of egg, nymph (crawler), and adult. Indoors, eggs can be laid any time under the protective shell. The eggs hatch and the crawlers seek out new feeding sites. This crawler stage is when scale is easiest to control. When the crawlers settle, they insert their mouth parts into the plant and begin feeding on the plant's sap. The protective shell develops soon after feeding begins and the insect loses use of its legs. Indoor scales can go through many generations a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects by hand. If caught early, scale insects can be rubbed off by hand, with a discarded toothbrush, or with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Prune out heavily infested portions of the plant.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Monitor plants frequently. When crawlers are noticed, use insecticidal soaps that are formulated to kill insects and not damage plants. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or ultra-refined horticultural oils are effective in controlling both adults and scale crawlers. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to certain plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors. Infested houseplants summered outdoors frequently benefit from the many natural enemies of scale. Be sure to check plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors in fall to be sure they are pest-free.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mealybugs are common pests of indoor plants. They can also be serious pests of outdoor plants in warmer climates, such as Florida and California.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult females are oval, 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. They are piercing-sucking insects, which feed on plant sap. The insects exude a honeydew, which can cause leaves to become sticky. Ants may be attracted to the sweet liquid. In time, a black mold, called sooty mold, can grow on the honeydew giving the leaves a dirty, sooty appearance. Plants infested with mealybugs become weak, may wilt and turn yellow, and eventually die.
Life Cycle
Indoors, eggs can be laid any time of year. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks. The young mature in 6–8 weeks. Several generations can occur in the same year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects. Dislodge as many insects as possible using a strong stream of water. A cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol will also effectively remove a few insects.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps specially formulated to kill insects and not damage plants are effective if used frequently until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils are also very effective in controlling mealybugs. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Follow directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult females are oval, 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. They are piercing-sucking insects, which feed on plant sap. The insects exude a honeydew, which can cause leaves to become sticky. Ants may be attracted to the sweet liquid. In time, a black mold, called sooty mold, can grow on the honeydew giving the leaves a dirty, sooty appearance. Plants infested with mealybugs become weak, may wilt and turn yellow, and eventually die.
Life Cycle
Indoors, eggs can be laid any time of year. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks. The young mature in 6–8 weeks. Several generations can occur in the same year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects. Dislodge as many insects as possible using a strong stream of water. A cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol will also effectively remove a few insects.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps specially formulated to kill insects and not damage plants are effective if used frequently until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils are also very effective in controlling mealybugs. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Follow directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease of indoor plants. African violets, begonias, ivy, jade, kalanchoe, poinsettia and rosemary are susceptible to powdery mildew. It thrives best in cool, damp conditions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Whiteflies are harmful to both outdoor and indoor plants by sucking plant sap. Under certain conditions, they can also transmit disease. The whitefly parasite (Encarsia formosa) lays its eggs — as many as 50 to 100 — in both pupae and later larval stages of the white fly, destroying them before they can become adults. The host larva turns black as the parasite develops. It emerges, depending on conditions, in about two weeks. The adults will also feed on the larval juices released when they puncture the larvae.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including whitefly parasites, at Planet Natural. One strip of cards — 500 parasitic wasps — treats up to 250 square feet and costs $29.50 with USPS Priority Mail shipping included!
Attracted to the flies by the smell of the honeydew they produce, E. formosa is an efficient biological control of whitefly and one of the most cost effective ways to control greenhouse and indoor infestations of the pest.
Humidity and strong light encourage the parasite’s activity. Temperature is also key as the parasite will not fly and seek out new prey at temperatures under 62 degrees. Its preference for warm, humid, well-lit conditions make the whitefly parasite the perfect solution for indoor and greenhouse whitefly problems.
Depending on pest levels, the following release rates have been established:
2-4 per square foot of infested area
1-2 per plant when pests are first noticed
Whitefly parasites are shipped as mature pupae in host eggs, glued to a paper card and almost ready to hatch as adult parasitic wasps. If pest levels are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide (insecticidal soap, botanical insecticide) to establish control, then release beneficials 2-3 weeks later to maintain control.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including whitefly parasites, at Planet Natural. One strip of cards — 500 parasitic wasps — treats up to 250 square feet and costs $29.50 with USPS Priority Mail shipping included!
Attracted to the flies by the smell of the honeydew they produce, E. formosa is an efficient biological control of whitefly and one of the most cost effective ways to control greenhouse and indoor infestations of the pest.
Humidity and strong light encourage the parasite’s activity. Temperature is also key as the parasite will not fly and seek out new prey at temperatures under 62 degrees. Its preference for warm, humid, well-lit conditions make the whitefly parasite the perfect solution for indoor and greenhouse whitefly problems.
Depending on pest levels, the following release rates have been established:
2-4 per square foot of infested area
1-2 per plant when pests are first noticed
Whitefly parasites are shipped as mature pupae in host eggs, glued to a paper card and almost ready to hatch as adult parasitic wasps. If pest levels are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide (insecticidal soap, botanical insecticide) to establish control, then release beneficials 2-3 weeks later to maintain control.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Root aphids — aphids that stay at or above the soil line — are from the family Phylloxera, a near-cousin of aphids. They are an escalating problem, especially among indoor growers, and spreading through parts of the country where they haven’t been seen before. They’re hard to spot and unlike small colonies of green and other aphids found on stems and leaves, root aphids are more likely to get out of control. They can multiply quickly, unseen, and sap enough vigor from your plants to kill them.
Because they’re small — about the size of a mite — and often colored to blend with roots and soil, Phylloxera is hard to spot. Often, growers will see the white, waxy material that the aphids secrete, a chalkier type of the honeydew secreted by other aphids. Their bodies are more pear-shaped than oval as are mealybugs. They’re about the same size or slightly smaller than stem-and-leaf aphids with shorter legs and antennae. They come in a variety of colors, including pink, but are mostly white and brown. They’re commonly confused with the larger mealy bugs, because of the white substance they spread. In their winged stage, they can be confused with fungus gnats. Like other aphids, they have small cornicals or “tail pipes” at the end of their abdomen which also distinguishes them from mealybugs.
Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.
In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.
Lifecycle
Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.
Damage
Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.
Attacks from root aphids can leave plants vulnerable to root rot, mildew, and disease.
Visible symptoms, like yellowing leaves, often lead growers to consider adding certain minerals, usually magnesium, to their nutrient mixture, often with no result.
In addition to greenhouse and garden perennials, various types of root aphids attack rice crops, the roots of a variety of trees including fir, walnut, and hickory. Root aphids can also cause problems for perennial herbs, including those grown in pots.
Root Aphid Control
Detecting the first signs of root aphids, especially when growing indoors, is crucial to saving your plants vegetating and fruiting abilities. At a certain point, usually sooner rather than later, affected plants and containers should be removed from the grow space completely and destroyed.
Waiting for fruits or flowers to mature in an attempt to save something of a crop is not advised. This only gives root aphids a chance to inoculate themselves into your entire grow area. It’s best to start over, sanitizing all containers and growing equipment that’s been used. Indoor growers should clean their entire grow space.
Outdoor plants:
Avoid introducing commercial grade soils, including bagged composts, that may contain aphids and their eggs. This is probably the most usual way that aphids have been spread to gardens throughout the country. Buy soil and compost from a reliable, local source, make your own.
Attract birds who will pick aphid eggs from trees and the ground.
Several types of parasitic wasps attack aphid eggs. Ladybugs will also predate aphids they find on the surface but not those burrowed in the soil.
Introduce beneficial nematodes (link below) into soil at the first sign of root aphid infestation or, better, in anticipation of them. Nematodes will attack a number of soil-borne pests yet are harmless to earthworms, pets, and humans. Make sure the soil is moist when applying nematodes.
Use Azatrol as a preventive treatment to prevent aphids from feeding on roots. Because it’s slow acting, Azatrol is not a good choice for treating infestations, but can be effective, over time, for minor infestations.
Neem oil can help stop aphid infestations from growing, especially as crawlers move up stems.
Do not use insecticidal soaps to control soil-borne aphids. While they will kill crawlers moving up plant stems, they will do little to stop aphids in the soil and may harm your plants’ roots.
Pyrethrum-based sprays can be effective if used early enough in the infestation. Water lightly after applying to disperse this chrysanthemum-based botanical into the soil. Reapply every two weeks (eggs in soil may continue hatching) until plants regain vigor and all aphid sign disappears.
When removing infected plants, be careful not to drop soil or spread aphids into other parts of your garden. Put plants, roots and all, in a bucket, and take away with minimum disturbance. Removal, in conjunction with preventive spraying, may be your most effective form of control.
Indoor plants:
Avoid importing soil or other growing medium of unknown origin into your growing space. Many nursery plants, especially those from large, commercial growers, have been found to carry root aphids and their eggs into green houses.
Use yellow sticky traps across indoor grow spaces to discover signs of root aphids on the move.
Pay careful attention to your plants. Roots that are visible in grow cups and other hydroponic methods should be periodically inspected. The small, usually white mite stage may be noticeable attached to the sides of grow cups, tanks and trays.
Beneficial nematodes introduced to hydroponic solutions at the first sign of infestation may slow the spread of root aphids.
With lights off, saturate the growing medium with a solution of Nuke Em (1 oz/ 31 oz water). Slowly pour near the plant stem into the soil and let stand for at least 1 hour — longer contact times are best. Rinse the media before turning lights back on.
When treating aphids in various indoor growing mediums, complete and thorough coverage of infected areas is critical to control. Submerge infested grow cups and root balls completely in a pyrethrum concentrate for a half-minute or more, gently swirling roots and medium to insure complete saturation.
Remove badly infested plants. No orchid, no herb or flowering perennial is worth risking your other plants and the health of your entire grow space in an attempt to wait out harvest on an affected plant.
Dealing with root aphids, indoors or out, is an evolving and ever-changing set of practices. Don’t be tempted to use harsh, chemical treatments if you already have an infestation. A University of Maryland Cooperative Extension study conducted inside two greenhouses with root aphids on gallardia, aster and boltonia perennials found applications of Talstar (bifenthrin) and Marathon (imidacloprid) applied as a soil drench gave poor results. Keeping aphids out of your garden or grow space in the first place is the most effective practice. And with this problem spreading, it is becoming harder and harder to do.
Because they’re small — about the size of a mite — and often colored to blend with roots and soil, Phylloxera is hard to spot. Often, growers will see the white, waxy material that the aphids secrete, a chalkier type of the honeydew secreted by other aphids. Their bodies are more pear-shaped than oval as are mealybugs. They’re about the same size or slightly smaller than stem-and-leaf aphids with shorter legs and antennae. They come in a variety of colors, including pink, but are mostly white and brown. They’re commonly confused with the larger mealy bugs, because of the white substance they spread. In their winged stage, they can be confused with fungus gnats. Like other aphids, they have small cornicals or “tail pipes” at the end of their abdomen which also distinguishes them from mealybugs.
Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.
In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.
Lifecycle
Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.
Damage
Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.
Attacks from root aphids can leave plants vulnerable to root rot, mildew, and disease.
Visible symptoms, like yellowing leaves, often lead growers to consider adding certain minerals, usually magnesium, to their nutrient mixture, often with no result.
In addition to greenhouse and garden perennials, various types of root aphids attack rice crops, the roots of a variety of trees including fir, walnut, and hickory. Root aphids can also cause problems for perennial herbs, including those grown in pots.
Root Aphid Control
Detecting the first signs of root aphids, especially when growing indoors, is crucial to saving your plants vegetating and fruiting abilities. At a certain point, usually sooner rather than later, affected plants and containers should be removed from the grow space completely and destroyed.
Waiting for fruits or flowers to mature in an attempt to save something of a crop is not advised. This only gives root aphids a chance to inoculate themselves into your entire grow area. It’s best to start over, sanitizing all containers and growing equipment that’s been used. Indoor growers should clean their entire grow space.
Outdoor plants:
Avoid introducing commercial grade soils, including bagged composts, that may contain aphids and their eggs. This is probably the most usual way that aphids have been spread to gardens throughout the country. Buy soil and compost from a reliable, local source, make your own.
Attract birds who will pick aphid eggs from trees and the ground.
Several types of parasitic wasps attack aphid eggs. Ladybugs will also predate aphids they find on the surface but not those burrowed in the soil.
Introduce beneficial nematodes (link below) into soil at the first sign of root aphid infestation or, better, in anticipation of them. Nematodes will attack a number of soil-borne pests yet are harmless to earthworms, pets, and humans. Make sure the soil is moist when applying nematodes.
Use Azatrol as a preventive treatment to prevent aphids from feeding on roots. Because it’s slow acting, Azatrol is not a good choice for treating infestations, but can be effective, over time, for minor infestations.
Neem oil can help stop aphid infestations from growing, especially as crawlers move up stems.
Do not use insecticidal soaps to control soil-borne aphids. While they will kill crawlers moving up plant stems, they will do little to stop aphids in the soil and may harm your plants’ roots.
Pyrethrum-based sprays can be effective if used early enough in the infestation. Water lightly after applying to disperse this chrysanthemum-based botanical into the soil. Reapply every two weeks (eggs in soil may continue hatching) until plants regain vigor and all aphid sign disappears.
When removing infected plants, be careful not to drop soil or spread aphids into other parts of your garden. Put plants, roots and all, in a bucket, and take away with minimum disturbance. Removal, in conjunction with preventive spraying, may be your most effective form of control.
Indoor plants:
Avoid importing soil or other growing medium of unknown origin into your growing space. Many nursery plants, especially those from large, commercial growers, have been found to carry root aphids and their eggs into green houses.
Use yellow sticky traps across indoor grow spaces to discover signs of root aphids on the move.
Pay careful attention to your plants. Roots that are visible in grow cups and other hydroponic methods should be periodically inspected. The small, usually white mite stage may be noticeable attached to the sides of grow cups, tanks and trays.
Beneficial nematodes introduced to hydroponic solutions at the first sign of infestation may slow the spread of root aphids.
With lights off, saturate the growing medium with a solution of Nuke Em (1 oz/ 31 oz water). Slowly pour near the plant stem into the soil and let stand for at least 1 hour — longer contact times are best. Rinse the media before turning lights back on.
When treating aphids in various indoor growing mediums, complete and thorough coverage of infected areas is critical to control. Submerge infested grow cups and root balls completely in a pyrethrum concentrate for a half-minute or more, gently swirling roots and medium to insure complete saturation.
Remove badly infested plants. No orchid, no herb or flowering perennial is worth risking your other plants and the health of your entire grow space in an attempt to wait out harvest on an affected plant.
Dealing with root aphids, indoors or out, is an evolving and ever-changing set of practices. Don’t be tempted to use harsh, chemical treatments if you already have an infestation. A University of Maryland Cooperative Extension study conducted inside two greenhouses with root aphids on gallardia, aster and boltonia perennials found applications of Talstar (bifenthrin) and Marathon (imidacloprid) applied as a soil drench gave poor results. Keeping aphids out of your garden or grow space in the first place is the most effective practice. And with this problem spreading, it is becoming harder and harder to do.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A common pest found in greenhouses and indoor/ outdoor gardens, thrips damage plants by sucking their juices and scraping at fruits, flowers and leaves. Plant leaves may turn pale, splotchy, and silvery, then die. Injured plants are twisted, discolored and scarred.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.
Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.
Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.
Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.
Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.
After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.
Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.
Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.
The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:
On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.
Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
Insecticidal soap, neem oil or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.
Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.
Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.
Life Cycle
Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.
After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.
Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.
Damage
Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.
The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:
On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
Control
Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.
Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
Insecticidal soap, neem oil or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A pest throughout most of the United States, black vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) attack over 100 different kinds of ornamental plants including rhododendrons, azaleas, yews and hemlocks. When weevils enter greenhouses or indoor gardens they are damaging to begonias, ferns and other common container plants. They are particularly damaging to cyclamens and are often called the “cyclamen grub.”
Adult black vine weevils (3/4 inch long) are large slate-gray to black insects that cannot fly. They have short, broad snouts, bent or “elbowed” antennae and patches of short hairs on their wings. Adults feed at night, damaging plants as they chew small notches in the edges of leaves. During the day, they hide in soil cracks, garden debris and mulch.
Larvae cause the greatest level of injury to plants. They are small (1/2 inch long), white, C-shaped grubs that tunnel through roots as they feed. Leaves will often wilt (even when properly watered) and plants may be stunted or die. Larvae may also girdle the main stem just below the soil line.
Life Cycle
Black vine weevils overwinter as nearly grown larvae in the soil around the roots of host plants. In spring they change to pupae and begin emerging as adults. In two or more weeks (depending on temperature) they begin depositing eggs near the crowns of the host plants. Hatching occurs in about 10 days, and the tiny larvae burrow into the soil and begin feeding. One generation per year.
Vine Weevil Control
Remove mulch and other hiding places from around plants and water only when necessary (larvae and adults prefer moist soil).
As non-flying insects, weevils travel from plant to plant by walking. It stands to reason then, that Tanglefoot Sticky Barrier should form the first line of defense.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting pest protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Immature stages of the black vine weevil are particularly vulnerable to attack by beneficial nematodes, especially in potted plants.
Fast-acting crack and crevice sprays, like Don’t Bug Me, can be used around windows, doors and vents to prevent adult weevils from entering structures.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Tip: Place burlap fabric at the bases of trees and shrubs to trap weevils that hide under it during the day.
Adult black vine weevils (3/4 inch long) are large slate-gray to black insects that cannot fly. They have short, broad snouts, bent or “elbowed” antennae and patches of short hairs on their wings. Adults feed at night, damaging plants as they chew small notches in the edges of leaves. During the day, they hide in soil cracks, garden debris and mulch.
Larvae cause the greatest level of injury to plants. They are small (1/2 inch long), white, C-shaped grubs that tunnel through roots as they feed. Leaves will often wilt (even when properly watered) and plants may be stunted or die. Larvae may also girdle the main stem just below the soil line.
Life Cycle
Black vine weevils overwinter as nearly grown larvae in the soil around the roots of host plants. In spring they change to pupae and begin emerging as adults. In two or more weeks (depending on temperature) they begin depositing eggs near the crowns of the host plants. Hatching occurs in about 10 days, and the tiny larvae burrow into the soil and begin feeding. One generation per year.
Vine Weevil Control
Remove mulch and other hiding places from around plants and water only when necessary (larvae and adults prefer moist soil).
As non-flying insects, weevils travel from plant to plant by walking. It stands to reason then, that Tanglefoot Sticky Barrier should form the first line of defense.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting pest protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Immature stages of the black vine weevil are particularly vulnerable to attack by beneficial nematodes, especially in potted plants.
Fast-acting crack and crevice sprays, like Don’t Bug Me, can be used around windows, doors and vents to prevent adult weevils from entering structures.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Tip: Place burlap fabric at the bases of trees and shrubs to trap weevils that hide under it during the day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Have you ever thought about growing hosta indoors? Typically, hostas are grown outdoors in shady or semi-shady areas, either in the ground or in containers. However, just because growing hosta as an indoor plant isn’t the norm, that doesn’t mean it can’t be done – beautifully! Read on to learn how to grow hosta indoors.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The asparagus fern plant (Asparagus aethiopicus syn. Asparagus densiflorus) is normally found in a hanging basket, decorating the deck or patio in summer and helping to clean indoor air in winter. The asparagus fern plant is not really a fern at all, but a member of the Liliaceae family. When growing asparagus ferns outside, place them in a part sun to shady location for best foliage growth. While the asparagus fern plant may sometimes flower, the tiny white flowers are small and not necessary for the beauty of growing asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Popular in Asian cuisine, lemongrass is a very low maintenance plant that can be grown outdoors in USDA zone 9 and above, and in an indoor/outdoor container in colder zones. It’s fast growing though, and can get a little unruly if not pruned back regularly. Keep reading to learn more about how to cut back lemongrass.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary’s fragrance floats on the breeze, making homes near plantings smell clean and fresh; in the herb garden, rosemary can double as a hedge when the right varieties are selected. Some rosemary varieties are even suitable as indoor potted plants, provided they get to spend the summer sunbathing on the patio. These tough, flexible plants seem almost bulletproof, but when brown rosemary plants appear in the garden, you may wonder, “Is my rosemary dying?” Although brown rosemary needles aren’t a particularly good sign, they are often the only early sign of root rot in this plant. If you heed their warning, you may be able to save your plant.
Causes of Brown Rosemary Plants
There are two common causes of rosemary turning brown, both caused by environmental problems that you can easily correct. The most common is root rot, but a sudden shift from the very bright light on a patio to the comparatively darker interior of a home can also cause this symptom. Rosemary evolved on the rocky, steep hillsides of the Mediterranean, in an environment where water is available for only a short period before it rolls on down the hill. Under these conditions, rosemary never had to adapt to wet conditions, so it suffers terribly when planted in a poorly-draining or frequently over-watered garden. Constant moisture causes rosemary roots to rot, leading to brown rosemary needles as the root system shrinks. Increasing drainage or waiting to water until the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch is often all these plants need to thrive.
Potted Rosemary Turning Brown
The same watering policy for outdoor plants should hold for potted rosemary — it should never be left in a saucer of water or the soil allowed to remain wet. If your plant isn’t over-watered but you’re still wondering why rosemary has brown tips, look to recent changes in lighting conditions. Plants that move indoors before the last frost may need more time to adjust to the lower amounts of available light.
When moving rosemary from the patio, start earlier in the season when indoor temperatures and outdoor temperatures are similar. Bring the plant inside for a few hours at a time, gradually increasing the time it stays inside during the day over a few weeks. This gives your rosemary time to adjust to indoor lighting by producing leaves that are better at absorbing light. Providing supplemental light can help during the adjustment period.
Causes of Brown Rosemary Plants
There are two common causes of rosemary turning brown, both caused by environmental problems that you can easily correct. The most common is root rot, but a sudden shift from the very bright light on a patio to the comparatively darker interior of a home can also cause this symptom. Rosemary evolved on the rocky, steep hillsides of the Mediterranean, in an environment where water is available for only a short period before it rolls on down the hill. Under these conditions, rosemary never had to adapt to wet conditions, so it suffers terribly when planted in a poorly-draining or frequently over-watered garden. Constant moisture causes rosemary roots to rot, leading to brown rosemary needles as the root system shrinks. Increasing drainage or waiting to water until the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch is often all these plants need to thrive.
Potted Rosemary Turning Brown
The same watering policy for outdoor plants should hold for potted rosemary — it should never be left in a saucer of water or the soil allowed to remain wet. If your plant isn’t over-watered but you’re still wondering why rosemary has brown tips, look to recent changes in lighting conditions. Plants that move indoors before the last frost may need more time to adjust to the lower amounts of available light.
When moving rosemary from the patio, start earlier in the season when indoor temperatures and outdoor temperatures are similar. Bring the plant inside for a few hours at a time, gradually increasing the time it stays inside during the day over a few weeks. This gives your rosemary time to adjust to indoor lighting by producing leaves that are better at absorbing light. Providing supplemental light can help during the adjustment period.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
When you’re starting your indoor herb garden for convenient culinary use, be sure to include some indoor chervil plants. Growing chervil indoors provides you an abundance of the delicately scented, annual herb for cooking. Chervil is an integral part of the “fines herbes” blend (a combination of finely chopped herbs) used in French cooking. Growing the plant indoors is an optimum use of the herb, as it does not flourish outside in hot summer heat and sun. When growing chervil indoors or outside, plants prefer light shade and cool temperatures. Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) should not be confused with turnip rooted chervil. Rooted chervil is obscure in American and British food, but is still sometimes used in French cuisine. The chervil discussed here is similar in appearance to flat leaved parsley, with a more delicate flavor and demeanor. It is sometimes called gourmet’s parsley.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
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