文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Sweetheart hoya plant, also known as Valentine plant or sweetheart wax plant, is a type of Hoya appropriately named for its thick, succulent, heart-shaped leaves. Like other Hoya varieties, sweetheart hoya plant is a stunning, low-maintenance indoor plant. Read on for additional wax plant info.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Indoor palm trees add an elegant and exotic feel to the home interior. Growing spindle palm indoors is a treat for northern gardeners who usually can’t grow tropical foliage in the garden. Palm tree houseplants are a great way to grow these warm weather beauties in a more diminutive form than the classic boulevard palms, which can exceed 25 feet in height. The more manageable potted palm still has all the class and glamour of its in-ground siblings with space saving sensibility.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Most people are familiar with spider plants as houseplants because they are so tolerant and easy to grow. They tolerate low light, infrequent watering and help clean indoor air, making them very popular. They also propagate easily from the little plantlets (spiders) that grow from their flower stalks. One small spider plant can very quickly lead to many more. You may have wondered at one time or another, “can spider plants be outdoors?” Well, in the right conditions, growing spider plants outdoors is possible. Read more to learn how to grow a spider plant outside.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Fungus gnats on spider plants are definitely an annoyance, but the pests, also known as soil gnats or dark-winged fungus gnats, typically cause little damage to indoor plants. However, if you’re tired of spider plant fungus gnats terrorizing your prized plant, help is on the way.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are common indoor plants and can last generations. Their unfussy nature and lively “spiderettes” make an appealing and easy to grow houseplant. Spider plant problems are rare but are usually attributed to too much or too little moisture, excess fertilizer and occasionally insect pests can interfere with plant health. Treating plants with dark leaf tips starts with identifying the cause and then correcting any bad cultivation practices.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re decorating for a St. Patrick’s Day party, you’ll want to include a potted shamrock plant or several shamrock houseplants. But party or not, the potted shamrock plant is an attractive indoor plant. So what is a shamrock plant? Keep reading to find out more about growing and caring for shamrock plants.
What is a Shamrock Plant?
The potted shamrock plant (Oxalis regnellii) is a small specimen, often reaching no more than 6 inches. Leaves are in a range of shades and delicate flowers bloom off and on during fall, winter and spring. Leaves are clover shaped and some think the plant brings good luck. These leaves fold up at night and open when light returns. Also known as the lucky shamrock plant, growing Oxalis houseplant is simple and adds a touch of spring to the indoors during winter months.
Shamrock houseplants are members of the wood sorrel family of the genus Oxalis. Caring for shamrock plants is simple when you understand their periods of dormancy. Unlike most houseplants, the potted shamrock plant goes dormant in summer.
When leaves die back, the potted shamrock plant needs a time of darkness to rest. Caring for shamrock plants during the period of dormancy includes limited watering and withholding of fertilizer. The dormant period when growing oxalis houseplant lasts anywhere from a few weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar and the conditions. New shoots appear when dormancy is broken. At this time, move shamrock houseplants to a sunny window or other area of bright light. Resume caring for shamrock plants to be rewarded with an abundance of the attractive foliage and blooms.
Growing Oxalis Houseplant
When shoots appear in autumn, begin watering the newly growing Oxalis houseplant. Soil should remain lightly moist during times of growth. Water two to three times a month, allowing soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize after watering with a balanced houseplant food. Shamrock plants grow from tiny bulbs that may be planted in fall or early spring. Most often, shamrock plants are purchased when foliage is growing and sometimes when in flower. Many cultivars of oxalis exist, but exotic varieties provide the best indoor performance. However, don’t dig a wild wood sorrel from outdoors and expect it to grow as a houseplant. Now that you’ve learned what is a shamrock plant and how to care for a growing Oxalis houseplant, include one in your indoor collection for winter blooms and maybe good luck.
What is a Shamrock Plant?
The potted shamrock plant (Oxalis regnellii) is a small specimen, often reaching no more than 6 inches. Leaves are in a range of shades and delicate flowers bloom off and on during fall, winter and spring. Leaves are clover shaped and some think the plant brings good luck. These leaves fold up at night and open when light returns. Also known as the lucky shamrock plant, growing Oxalis houseplant is simple and adds a touch of spring to the indoors during winter months.
Shamrock houseplants are members of the wood sorrel family of the genus Oxalis. Caring for shamrock plants is simple when you understand their periods of dormancy. Unlike most houseplants, the potted shamrock plant goes dormant in summer.
When leaves die back, the potted shamrock plant needs a time of darkness to rest. Caring for shamrock plants during the period of dormancy includes limited watering and withholding of fertilizer. The dormant period when growing oxalis houseplant lasts anywhere from a few weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar and the conditions. New shoots appear when dormancy is broken. At this time, move shamrock houseplants to a sunny window or other area of bright light. Resume caring for shamrock plants to be rewarded with an abundance of the attractive foliage and blooms.
Growing Oxalis Houseplant
When shoots appear in autumn, begin watering the newly growing Oxalis houseplant. Soil should remain lightly moist during times of growth. Water two to three times a month, allowing soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize after watering with a balanced houseplant food. Shamrock plants grow from tiny bulbs that may be planted in fall or early spring. Most often, shamrock plants are purchased when foliage is growing and sometimes when in flower. Many cultivars of oxalis exist, but exotic varieties provide the best indoor performance. However, don’t dig a wild wood sorrel from outdoors and expect it to grow as a houseplant. Now that you’ve learned what is a shamrock plant and how to care for a growing Oxalis houseplant, include one in your indoor collection for winter blooms and maybe good luck.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Oxalis, also known as shamrock or sorrel, is a popular indoor plant around the St. Patrick’s Day holiday. This diminutive little plant is also suitable for growing outdoors with minimal attention, although it may need a little help getting through chilly winters. Read on to learn about growing oxalis outdoors.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are many “footed” ferns which produce fuzzy rhizomes that grow outside the pot. These are generally grown as indoor plants. Rabbit’s foot fern doesn’t mind being pot bound but you should give it fresh soil every couple years. Repotting can be a challenge with all the little feet hanging around the original pot so read here for a step-by-step tutorial on how to repot a rabbit’s foot fern. Davallia fejeensis is the botanical name of the rabbit’s foot fern (Humata tyermanii or white paw fern, is a similar plant). These charming plants produce soft silvery growth off the base of the plant that stream down the outside of the pot. The growths are actually above ground rhizomes and can be used to start entirely new ferns. In mature plants, these rhizomes will literally coat the outside of a container and cascade down over a hanging pot. Don’t worry if you break one off during rabbit’s foot fern repotting, as you can simply root it for another of these wonderful plants.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The oval-shaped, beautifully patterned foliage of the prayer plant has earned it a favored spot among houseplants. Indoor gardeners love these plants, sometimes too much. When prayer plants turn yellow, it’s often because of environmental problems, but a few diseases and pests could also be responsible. If your prayer plant is turning yellow, read on to find out the possible causes and their treatments.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that harvest insects and feed on their juices. They do this because traditionally, these bog plants live in low nitrogen areas and must get nutrients in other ways. Pitcher plants make interesting indoor plants, especially the tender, tropical Nepenthes varieties. Sarracenia varieties are native to North America and can survive outside in many zones. As with any plant, diseases of pitcher plant may occur and should be dealt with immediately. There are also some common pests of pitcher plants that can chew away the modified pitcher shaped leaf, preventing the plant from harvesting its food.
Pitcher Plant Problems
The most common pitcher plant problems lie in cultivation and environmental issues. That said, there are a few pitcher plant diseases and pests that may affect them as well. Environmental Issues Outdoor plants can survive some freezing temperatures with a thick blanket of mulch around the rhizome area. However, the freezing temperatures before the plant is fully dormant may kill the rhizomes. Dig up the plant and check for any firm, white rhizomes and replant these, discarding the mushy discolored sections. Pitcher plants are bog plants but they can also drown in solid clay soils, so be careful to ensure proper drainage. Chemical drift from sprayed pesticides or herbicides is also a danger to the plant.
Diseases of Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized. As a bog plant engineered to harvesting its own nutrients, it is adaptable to low nutrient soils. Indoor plants may look yellow or unhealthy due to too few insects for harvest. In this case, fertilize with a half dilution of liquid plant food directly into a pitcher that has water in it. Direct fertilization of the soil can encourage natural soil borne spores from Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which are very common fungal diseases of pitcher plants. Fertilizing promotes the formation of these spores to multiply rapidly and they can wreak havoc on your pitcher plant. Pitcher plant diseases such as these can enter through the roots, destroying the vascular system of the plant or just affect the foliage. Either way, the damage seriously affects the health of the plant. Pests of Pitcher Plants One might think that any insects that get near the plant will become food and good riddance. This is true for many flying and creeping species, but some smaller foes exist that are too numerous and persistent for the plant to handle.
Spider mites attach when a plant is dry and the weather is hot. Keep the plant moist to avoid injury to the plant from their sucking habits. More obvious in their damage are thrips. You cannot see these teeny little insects well but deformed leaves will signal their presence. To verify that they are in residence, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and shake the foliage gently. If you see tiny black spots that move, you have thrips. Aphids, leafhoppers and mealybugs will also make a meal of your pitcher plant. Control them using water rinses and an application of a product called Orthene applied as a spray. Neem oil is also effective. Follow the directions carefully when using any pesticide and spray outdoors.
Pitcher Plant Problems
The most common pitcher plant problems lie in cultivation and environmental issues. That said, there are a few pitcher plant diseases and pests that may affect them as well. Environmental Issues Outdoor plants can survive some freezing temperatures with a thick blanket of mulch around the rhizome area. However, the freezing temperatures before the plant is fully dormant may kill the rhizomes. Dig up the plant and check for any firm, white rhizomes and replant these, discarding the mushy discolored sections. Pitcher plants are bog plants but they can also drown in solid clay soils, so be careful to ensure proper drainage. Chemical drift from sprayed pesticides or herbicides is also a danger to the plant.
Diseases of Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized. As a bog plant engineered to harvesting its own nutrients, it is adaptable to low nutrient soils. Indoor plants may look yellow or unhealthy due to too few insects for harvest. In this case, fertilize with a half dilution of liquid plant food directly into a pitcher that has water in it. Direct fertilization of the soil can encourage natural soil borne spores from Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which are very common fungal diseases of pitcher plants. Fertilizing promotes the formation of these spores to multiply rapidly and they can wreak havoc on your pitcher plant. Pitcher plant diseases such as these can enter through the roots, destroying the vascular system of the plant or just affect the foliage. Either way, the damage seriously affects the health of the plant. Pests of Pitcher Plants One might think that any insects that get near the plant will become food and good riddance. This is true for many flying and creeping species, but some smaller foes exist that are too numerous and persistent for the plant to handle.
Spider mites attach when a plant is dry and the weather is hot. Keep the plant moist to avoid injury to the plant from their sucking habits. More obvious in their damage are thrips. You cannot see these teeny little insects well but deformed leaves will signal their presence. To verify that they are in residence, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and shake the foliage gently. If you see tiny black spots that move, you have thrips. Aphids, leafhoppers and mealybugs will also make a meal of your pitcher plant. Control them using water rinses and an application of a product called Orthene applied as a spray. Neem oil is also effective. Follow the directions carefully when using any pesticide and spray outdoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that are surprisingly adaptable to the indoor environment. However, it’s important to keep in mind that there are many types of pitcher plants with many different needs, and some varieties can be a little on the fussy side. Read on to learn the basics of growing pitcher plant as a houseplant and pitcher plant care indoors.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Some indoor plant enthusiasts think pitcher plants are easy to grow, while others believe the carnivorous plants are headaches waiting to happen. The truth is somewhere in the middle, and for the most part, pitcher plants are happy if you can meet their needs for water, light and humidity. If you’re having carnivorous plant problems, such as a pitcher plant not making pitchers, it may require some troubleshooting to determine the problem. Read on for helpful tips.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
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Misspgy：You Are brave
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) is an attractive indoor flower known for its ability to thrive in low light. It usually grows between 1-4 feet (.3-1.2 m.) in height and produces pale white flowers that give off a pleasant fragrance and last a long time. Sometimes, however, peace lilies suffer from browning or yellowing leaves. Keep reading to learn about what causes peace lily leaves to turn yellow and how to treat it.
Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
Normally, peace lily leaves are long and dark green, emerging directly from the soil and growing up and out. The leaves are strong and oval shaped, narrowing to a point at the tip. They are durable, and often the biggest problem they encounter is that they collect dust and need to be wiped off periodically.
Sometimes, however, the edges of peace lily leaves turn a sickly yellow or brown color. The root of the problem is almost definitely water related. This browning can be caused by too little or too much watering.
There is a good chance, however, that it is due to a buildup of minerals. Since peace lilies are primarily kept as houseplants, they are almost always watered with tap water. If you have hard water in your house, it may be accumulating too much calcium in your plant’s soil. Conversely, this mineral buildup is just as likely if you use a water softener. Some minerals are good, but too many can build up around your plant’s roots and slowly suffocate it.
Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
Spathiphyllum leaf problems like this can normally be cleared up fairly easy. If you have a peace lily with brown tips, try watering it with bottled drinking water. First, flush the plant with lots of bottled water until it runs out of the drainage holes. The minerals will bond with the water and wash away with it (if you can see white deposits around the drainage holes, mineral buildup is almost definitely your problem). After this, water your peace lily like normal, but with bottled water, and your plant ought to recover just fine. You can also snip out unsightly brown/yellow leaves.
Reasons for Peace Lilies with Brown and Yellow Leaves
Normally, peace lily leaves are long and dark green, emerging directly from the soil and growing up and out. The leaves are strong and oval shaped, narrowing to a point at the tip. They are durable, and often the biggest problem they encounter is that they collect dust and need to be wiped off periodically.
Sometimes, however, the edges of peace lily leaves turn a sickly yellow or brown color. The root of the problem is almost definitely water related. This browning can be caused by too little or too much watering.
There is a good chance, however, that it is due to a buildup of minerals. Since peace lilies are primarily kept as houseplants, they are almost always watered with tap water. If you have hard water in your house, it may be accumulating too much calcium in your plant’s soil. Conversely, this mineral buildup is just as likely if you use a water softener. Some minerals are good, but too many can build up around your plant’s roots and slowly suffocate it.
Treating a Peace Lily with Brown Tips
Spathiphyllum leaf problems like this can normally be cleared up fairly easy. If you have a peace lily with brown tips, try watering it with bottled drinking water. First, flush the plant with lots of bottled water until it runs out of the drainage holes. The minerals will bond with the water and wash away with it (if you can see white deposits around the drainage holes, mineral buildup is almost definitely your problem). After this, water your peace lily like normal, but with bottled water, and your plant ought to recover just fine. You can also snip out unsightly brown/yellow leaves.
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