文章
莹723
2021年01月03日
Spring blossom is a celebration of winter’s end, and a reminder that summer is just around the corner. Pretty pink and white flowers burst into bloom, providing an early source of pollen and nectar for bees and other pollinators, before falling from their boughs like confetti.
While there are many other spring-flowering shrubs and trees, it’s generally the flowers of fruiting trees belonging to the Rosaceae family including apples, cherries, peaches and pears, which are referred to as blossoms – the flowers which precede their fruit.
Browse our gallery of 10 gorgeous blossoming fruit trees, below.
1.Malus ‘Royalty’
A striking upright ornamental crab apple with magenta flowers. Glossy foliage that turns deep red in autumn. The small red fruits make a fine crab apple jelly, or left alone provide a good food source for birds in winter.
2.Malus domestica ‘Arthur Turner’
One of the best flowering apples, Malus ‘Arthur Turner’ has outstanding pink flowers followed by golden apples that are excellent for cooking and baking. A large, upright tree that is suitable for training as a cordon or espalier.
Three ways to train a fruit tree
3.Prunus ‘Pink Shell’
Prunus ‘Pink Shell’ is a small, spreading ornamental cherry with delicate, cup-shaped pink flowers and pale green leaves that turn orange in autumn. Excellent for early pollinators.
4.Prunus ‘Spire’
Prunus ‘Spire’ is a compact and upright ornamental cherry that produces an impressive show of pink flowers from late March. Its colourful foliage begins bronze, turning yellow and green in summer, followed by red in autumn.
5.Prunus ‘Tai-Haku’
An ancient cultivar, this great white cherry bears white blossoms much larger than most ornamental cherries, up to 6cm wide. Gorgeous bronze foliage turns green in summer. A large, wide tree that’ll need plenty of room.
6.Prunus avium ‘Regina’
An excellent variety of cherry, ‘Regina’ produces clouds of pure-white blossom in spring, followed by large, crimson cherries with superb flavour in summer. Great for a small garden.
7.Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’
Reaching up to 2m, this compact ornamental cherry is ideal for a small garden. Showy white flowers blushed pink burst from attractive twisted branches. Excellent red and orange autumn colour.
8.Prunus persica ‘Avalon Pride’
The beautiful peach tree Prunus persica ‘Avalon Pride’ has showy pink flowers early in the spring season, followed by large, juicy peaches in summer. Resistant to peach leaf curl. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot for planting in autumn.
While there are many other spring-flowering shrubs and trees, it’s generally the flowers of fruiting trees belonging to the Rosaceae family including apples, cherries, peaches and pears, which are referred to as blossoms – the flowers which precede their fruit.
Browse our gallery of 10 gorgeous blossoming fruit trees, below.
1.Malus ‘Royalty’
A striking upright ornamental crab apple with magenta flowers. Glossy foliage that turns deep red in autumn. The small red fruits make a fine crab apple jelly, or left alone provide a good food source for birds in winter.
2.Malus domestica ‘Arthur Turner’
One of the best flowering apples, Malus ‘Arthur Turner’ has outstanding pink flowers followed by golden apples that are excellent for cooking and baking. A large, upright tree that is suitable for training as a cordon or espalier.
Three ways to train a fruit tree
3.Prunus ‘Pink Shell’
Prunus ‘Pink Shell’ is a small, spreading ornamental cherry with delicate, cup-shaped pink flowers and pale green leaves that turn orange in autumn. Excellent for early pollinators.
4.Prunus ‘Spire’
Prunus ‘Spire’ is a compact and upright ornamental cherry that produces an impressive show of pink flowers from late March. Its colourful foliage begins bronze, turning yellow and green in summer, followed by red in autumn.
5.Prunus ‘Tai-Haku’
An ancient cultivar, this great white cherry bears white blossoms much larger than most ornamental cherries, up to 6cm wide. Gorgeous bronze foliage turns green in summer. A large, wide tree that’ll need plenty of room.
6.Prunus avium ‘Regina’
An excellent variety of cherry, ‘Regina’ produces clouds of pure-white blossom in spring, followed by large, crimson cherries with superb flavour in summer. Great for a small garden.
7.Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’
Reaching up to 2m, this compact ornamental cherry is ideal for a small garden. Showy white flowers blushed pink burst from attractive twisted branches. Excellent red and orange autumn colour.
8.Prunus persica ‘Avalon Pride’
The beautiful peach tree Prunus persica ‘Avalon Pride’ has showy pink flowers early in the spring season, followed by large, juicy peaches in summer. Resistant to peach leaf curl. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot for planting in autumn.
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文章
ritau
2020年02月13日
A cherry blossom is a flower of many trees of genus Prunus. The most well-known species is the Japanese cherry, Prunus serrulata, which is commonly called sakura (桜 or 櫻; さくら).
They are widely distributed, especially in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere including Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Mainland China, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Myanmar, Thailand and West Siberia.Along with the chrysanthemum, the cherry blossom is considered the national flower of Japan.
All varieties of cherry blossom trees produce small, unpalatable fruit or edible cherries. Edible cherries generally come from cultivars of the related species Prunus avium and Prunus cerasus.
In Japan, cherry blossoms symbolize clouds due to their nature of blooming en masse, besides being an enduring metaphor for the ephemeral nature of life, an aspect of Japanese cultural tradition that is often associated with Buddhist influence, and which is embodied in the concept of mono no aware.The association of the cherry blossom with mono no aware dates back to 18th-century scholar Motoori Norinaga. The transience of the blossoms, the exquisite beauty and volatility, has often been associated with mortality and graceful and readily acceptance of destiny and karma; for this reason, cherry blossoms are richly symbolic, and have been utilized often in Japanese art, manga, anime, and film, as well as at musical performances for ambient effect. There is at least one popular folk song, originally meant for the shakuhachi (bamboo flute), titled "Sakura", and several pop songs. The flower is also represented on all manner of consumer goods in Japan, including kimono, stationery, and dishware.
The most popular variety of cherry blossom in Japan is the Somei Yoshino. Its flowers are nearly pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem. They bloom and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. Therefore, the trees look nearly white from top to bottom. The variety takes its name from the village of Somei (now part of Toshima in Tokyo). It was developed in the mid- to late-19th century at the end of the Edo period and the beginning of the Meiji period. The Somei Yoshino is so widely associated with cherry blossoms that jidaigeki and other works of fiction often depict the variety in the Edo period or earlier; such depictions are anachronisms.
Winter sakura or fuyuzakura (Prunus subhirtella autumnalis) begins to bloom in the fall and continues blooming sporadically throughout the winter. It is said to be a cross between edohiganzakura, the Tokyo Higan cherry (P. incisa) and mamezakura (P. pendula).
Other categories include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals. The shidarezakura, or weeping cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
They are widely distributed, especially in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere including Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Mainland China, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Myanmar, Thailand and West Siberia.Along with the chrysanthemum, the cherry blossom is considered the national flower of Japan.
All varieties of cherry blossom trees produce small, unpalatable fruit or edible cherries. Edible cherries generally come from cultivars of the related species Prunus avium and Prunus cerasus.
In Japan, cherry blossoms symbolize clouds due to their nature of blooming en masse, besides being an enduring metaphor for the ephemeral nature of life, an aspect of Japanese cultural tradition that is often associated with Buddhist influence, and which is embodied in the concept of mono no aware.The association of the cherry blossom with mono no aware dates back to 18th-century scholar Motoori Norinaga. The transience of the blossoms, the exquisite beauty and volatility, has often been associated with mortality and graceful and readily acceptance of destiny and karma; for this reason, cherry blossoms are richly symbolic, and have been utilized often in Japanese art, manga, anime, and film, as well as at musical performances for ambient effect. There is at least one popular folk song, originally meant for the shakuhachi (bamboo flute), titled "Sakura", and several pop songs. The flower is also represented on all manner of consumer goods in Japan, including kimono, stationery, and dishware.
The most popular variety of cherry blossom in Japan is the Somei Yoshino. Its flowers are nearly pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem. They bloom and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. Therefore, the trees look nearly white from top to bottom. The variety takes its name from the village of Somei (now part of Toshima in Tokyo). It was developed in the mid- to late-19th century at the end of the Edo period and the beginning of the Meiji period. The Somei Yoshino is so widely associated with cherry blossoms that jidaigeki and other works of fiction often depict the variety in the Edo period or earlier; such depictions are anachronisms.
Winter sakura or fuyuzakura (Prunus subhirtella autumnalis) begins to bloom in the fall and continues blooming sporadically throughout the winter. It is said to be a cross between edohiganzakura, the Tokyo Higan cherry (P. incisa) and mamezakura (P. pendula).
Other categories include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals. The shidarezakura, or weeping cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Himalayan blue poppies are one of the few flowers that produce an intense sky-blue blossom. In their native location in China, they can grow to more than 6 feet tall; in other locations, they average 20 to 28 inches tall. These poppies look best planted in mass displays or threaded throughout a border. These flowers are not a good choice for the impatient gardener; in some locations they may not bloom the first season. The foliage will die down for the winter and you should expect to see blooms the second year. If it is prevented from blooming the first time the bud sets, the poppy is more likely to become a perennial. These flowers are suitable for USDA zones 3 to 8.
Step 1
Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil.
Step 2
Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew.
Step 4
Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5
Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
Step 1
Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil.
Step 2
Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew.
Step 4
Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5
Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Most garden plants are either annuals that bloom for one season only, or perennials that blossom once a year for multiple years. It is possible, though, to find flowers that bloom more than once a year. The specific plants that will blossom twice in your garden depend on your climate and growing conditions, but there are a few varieties that can generally be counted upon for biannual blooms.
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Watermelons are the dessert crop of the vegetable garden, and the sweet, refreshing fruit matures in the heat of summer, just when we need it most. A few conditions and diseases cause black spots and blotches that make the fruit inedible. Blossom end rot, which is caused by soil conditions, is easily corrected so that the gardener only loses the first ripening fruit, while bacterial and fungal diseases can destroy the entire crop.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
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成长记
Avacha
2018年02月21日
The plant is feeling the spring coming! It grows in all directions. Maybe next winter we can even see its blossom? 😊🌺 #schlumbergera #growth #Gamora
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成长记
Avacha
2018年01月15日
Start of 2016 was like that (just received the plant as a gift then) #schlumbergera #blossom
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Known for their signature three falling petals, irises (Iris spp.) grow between 4 and 36 inches tall, depending on the variety. These perennials commonly blossom in the spring and summer with colors ranging from orange to purple. Once the flowers fade, you may be tempted to remove the foliage, but it is critical to leave the greenery intact for several weeks. Irises thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.
Average Time Span
In general, cut the greenery back six to eight weeks after your blossoms die back. Although the foliage appears unsightly, it is slowly gathering energy to be stored for next season's flowering. Rhizomes, or underground stems, store photosynthesized energy from the dying foliage. If the rhizomes do not store enough energy, your irises bloom with less vigor or fail to flower altogether next season. The only foliage alteration you can make is simply folding the leaves downward if they are waving wildly in all directions; do not tie them into a bundle, because this process hinders photosynthesis.
Visual Signal
Your greenery is ready to be cut back when it appears yellow and has a papery texture. However, each leaf does not yellow at the same rate as others -- only cut portions that are obviously depleted of green pigment, called chlorophyll. Your irises can be slowly pruned of their yellowed foliage to create a neater garden appearance. In the meantime, plant distracting ground cover or other blossoming flowers around your irises to disguise the location. Creeping foliage and spectacular flowers make it easier to ignore the dying iris leaves until you can completely trim the greenery back.
Dormancy Period
Most iris varieties enter dormancy in July through the warm, early fall. Autumn is a practical time to cut your greenery back, especially if you want to dig your rhizomes. After two to three years, iris rhizomes clump into a mass that impedes vigorous flowering. Dig your rhizomes in the fall, and divide them. Each rhizome piece needs to have some roots and a bud-growing point. Plant these pieces in your garden for widespread blossoming come spring and summer.
Considering Flower Removal
Unlike the foliage, flower stalks need immediate removal after they start fading. Because you need the leaves to remain healthy until they yellow, your decaying flowers become a liability: They hold molds that easily infiltrate the leaves if left to rot in place. You also want to direct energy into foliage energy production, not seed production. Fading flowers are usually creating seed pods; removing the flowers directs energy into the leaves and rhizomes for storage and vigorous blossoming potential next season.
Average Time Span
In general, cut the greenery back six to eight weeks after your blossoms die back. Although the foliage appears unsightly, it is slowly gathering energy to be stored for next season's flowering. Rhizomes, or underground stems, store photosynthesized energy from the dying foliage. If the rhizomes do not store enough energy, your irises bloom with less vigor or fail to flower altogether next season. The only foliage alteration you can make is simply folding the leaves downward if they are waving wildly in all directions; do not tie them into a bundle, because this process hinders photosynthesis.
Visual Signal
Your greenery is ready to be cut back when it appears yellow and has a papery texture. However, each leaf does not yellow at the same rate as others -- only cut portions that are obviously depleted of green pigment, called chlorophyll. Your irises can be slowly pruned of their yellowed foliage to create a neater garden appearance. In the meantime, plant distracting ground cover or other blossoming flowers around your irises to disguise the location. Creeping foliage and spectacular flowers make it easier to ignore the dying iris leaves until you can completely trim the greenery back.
Dormancy Period
Most iris varieties enter dormancy in July through the warm, early fall. Autumn is a practical time to cut your greenery back, especially if you want to dig your rhizomes. After two to three years, iris rhizomes clump into a mass that impedes vigorous flowering. Dig your rhizomes in the fall, and divide them. Each rhizome piece needs to have some roots and a bud-growing point. Plant these pieces in your garden for widespread blossoming come spring and summer.
Considering Flower Removal
Unlike the foliage, flower stalks need immediate removal after they start fading. Because you need the leaves to remain healthy until they yellow, your decaying flowers become a liability: They hold molds that easily infiltrate the leaves if left to rot in place. You also want to direct energy into foliage energy production, not seed production. Fading flowers are usually creating seed pods; removing the flowers directs energy into the leaves and rhizomes for storage and vigorous blossoming potential next season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
In Europe during the late 1800s, the idea that flowers represented feelings grew into a system of communicating through flower arrangements. Code books guided those who wanted to compose or read floral messages. According to one book, the apple blossom meant “Will the glow of love finally redden your delicate cheeks?” Field clover signified “Let me know when I can see you again.” A red rose petal meant “Yes!”, a white one “No!” Spurge, a green flower, carried the message: “Your nature is so cold that one might think your heart made of stone.” Users of this elaborate language needed not only a code book but also the ability to recognize blooms.
When Christians adopted the rose as a symbol, it still carried connections with ancient mother goddesses. The flower became associated with Mary, the mother of Christ, who was sometimes addressed as the Mystic or Holy Rose. In time, the rose took on additional meanings in Christian symbolism. Red roses came to represent the blood shed by the martyrs who died for their faith; white ones stood for innocence and purity. One Christian legend says that roses originally had no thorns. But after the sin of Adam and Eve—for which they were driven out of the Garden of Eden—the rose grew thorns to remind people that they no longer lived ill a state of perfection.
Sunflower
Some flowers turn their heads during the day, revolving slowly on their stalks to face the sun as it travels across the sky. The Greek myth of Clytie and Apollo, which exists in several versions, explains this movement as the legacy of a lovesick girl.
Clytie, who was either a water nymph or a princess of the ancient city of Babylon, fell in love with Apollo, god of the sun. For a time the god returned her love, but then he tired of her. The forlorn Clytie sat, day after day, slowly turning her head to watch Apollo move across the sky in his sun chariot. Eventually, the gods took pity on her and turned her into a flower. In some versions of the myth, she became a heliotrope or a marigold, but most accounts say that Clytie became a sunflower.
Violet
The violet, which grows low to the ground and has small purple or white flowers, appeared in an ancient Near Eastern myth that probably inspired the Greek and Roman myth of Venus and Adonis. According to this story, the great mother goddess Cybele loved Attis, who was killed while hunting a wild boar. Where his blood fell on the ground, violets grew.
The Greeks believed that violets were sacred to the god Ares and to Io, one of the many human loves of Zeus. Later, in Christian symbolism, the violet stood for the virtue of humility, or hum ble modesty, and several legends tell of violets springing up on the graves of virgins and saints. European folktales associate violets with death and mourning.
When Christians adopted the rose as a symbol, it still carried connections with ancient mother goddesses. The flower became associated with Mary, the mother of Christ, who was sometimes addressed as the Mystic or Holy Rose. In time, the rose took on additional meanings in Christian symbolism. Red roses came to represent the blood shed by the martyrs who died for their faith; white ones stood for innocence and purity. One Christian legend says that roses originally had no thorns. But after the sin of Adam and Eve—for which they were driven out of the Garden of Eden—the rose grew thorns to remind people that they no longer lived ill a state of perfection.
Sunflower
Some flowers turn their heads during the day, revolving slowly on their stalks to face the sun as it travels across the sky. The Greek myth of Clytie and Apollo, which exists in several versions, explains this movement as the legacy of a lovesick girl.
Clytie, who was either a water nymph or a princess of the ancient city of Babylon, fell in love with Apollo, god of the sun. For a time the god returned her love, but then he tired of her. The forlorn Clytie sat, day after day, slowly turning her head to watch Apollo move across the sky in his sun chariot. Eventually, the gods took pity on her and turned her into a flower. In some versions of the myth, she became a heliotrope or a marigold, but most accounts say that Clytie became a sunflower.
Violet
The violet, which grows low to the ground and has small purple or white flowers, appeared in an ancient Near Eastern myth that probably inspired the Greek and Roman myth of Venus and Adonis. According to this story, the great mother goddess Cybele loved Attis, who was killed while hunting a wild boar. Where his blood fell on the ground, violets grew.
The Greeks believed that violets were sacred to the god Ares and to Io, one of the many human loves of Zeus. Later, in Christian symbolism, the violet stood for the virtue of humility, or hum ble modesty, and several legends tell of violets springing up on the graves of virgins and saints. European folktales associate violets with death and mourning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever experienced the disappointment of having healthy buds and flowers drop off of your plants, this article is for you. Read on to find out what causes blossom drop in plants, and what you can do about it.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Blossom-end rot is a physiological disorder of tomatoes and peppers. It is a disturbance in the normal physiology of the plant. Because it is not caused by an insect or disease organism, fungicidal and insecticidal sprays are not effective in controlling the problem.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
An early symptom of blossom-end rot is a light tan patch on the blossom end of the green fruit. Over time the area turns dark brown or black and may become sunken or leathery. Fruit which is one-third to one-half developed is most commonly affected. Sometimes an internal black rot will develop in the center of the fruit with little or no external symptoms. Parts of the fruit not affected by blossom-end rot may be eaten.
Causes of Blossom-End Rot
The most common cause of blossom-end rot is fluctuating soil moisture. Moisture plays an important role in calcium uptake in the plant. When a dry period follows adequate moisture, calcium uptake can be reduced. Root damage due to deep cultivation or burning from improper fertilization can also restrict calcium uptake. Excessive applications of fertilizer containing ammonia can also result in symptoms. Less frequently, an actual deficiency of calcium in the soil may cause this rot. This is rarely the case in St. Louis.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain even soil moisture. Water regularly during dry periods and mulch plants with a 3–4 inch layer of organic material to help hold in soil moisture.
2. Avoid deep cultivation too near plants.
3. Modify your fertilizing practices. Use a fertilizer high in superphosphate and low in nitrogen. When adding nitrogen, use calcium nitrate rather than ammonia or urea forms.
4. Get a soil test. If the above methods do not correct the problem, get a soil test and maintain soil pH at 6.5 to 7.
5. As a last resort, use a foliar spray of calcium chloride. Do not spray too often or in excessive amounts.
6. Tomatoes in container. For tomatoes grown in containers, apply a fertilizer specifically formulated for tomatoes. The fertilizer must contain micronutrients including calcium.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
An early symptom of blossom-end rot is a light tan patch on the blossom end of the green fruit. Over time the area turns dark brown or black and may become sunken or leathery. Fruit which is one-third to one-half developed is most commonly affected. Sometimes an internal black rot will develop in the center of the fruit with little or no external symptoms. Parts of the fruit not affected by blossom-end rot may be eaten.
Causes of Blossom-End Rot
The most common cause of blossom-end rot is fluctuating soil moisture. Moisture plays an important role in calcium uptake in the plant. When a dry period follows adequate moisture, calcium uptake can be reduced. Root damage due to deep cultivation or burning from improper fertilization can also restrict calcium uptake. Excessive applications of fertilizer containing ammonia can also result in symptoms. Less frequently, an actual deficiency of calcium in the soil may cause this rot. This is rarely the case in St. Louis.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain even soil moisture. Water regularly during dry periods and mulch plants with a 3–4 inch layer of organic material to help hold in soil moisture.
2. Avoid deep cultivation too near plants.
3. Modify your fertilizing practices. Use a fertilizer high in superphosphate and low in nitrogen. When adding nitrogen, use calcium nitrate rather than ammonia or urea forms.
4. Get a soil test. If the above methods do not correct the problem, get a soil test and maintain soil pH at 6.5 to 7.
5. As a last resort, use a foliar spray of calcium chloride. Do not spray too often or in excessive amounts.
6. Tomatoes in container. For tomatoes grown in containers, apply a fertilizer specifically formulated for tomatoes. The fertilizer must contain micronutrients including calcium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Blossom-end rot, which begins with a small watery bruise on the blossom end of the fruit, is the result of a lack of calcium in developing fruits. This calcium deficiency can be a result of slow growth, damaged roots induced by extreme fluctuations in the surrounding soil moisture content, an excess of salts, or other fluctuating conditions during plant growth. Calcium deficiencies cause actively growing cells to die because they cannot retain water and nutrients.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Cane blight of raspberries is a late season disease caused by the fungus, Leptosphaeria conithyrium. Infected canes may blossom normally, but they usually wilt and die before they can set fruit or while they are heavy with fruit. Black raspberries are more susceptible than red or purple raspberries. Cankers on apples and roses are also caused by this fungus.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Brown-purple areas develop around cuts or wounds in infected canes. The discoloration will slowly spread down the cane, encircling the stem. Small, smutty patches of olive-green fungal conidia (spores or conidiospores) develop on the bark. The spread of the disease through the canes blocks water movement through the plant, causing wilting and, eventually, death. Cane blight reduces yields because symptoms appear later in the growing season, when branches may be laden with fruit.
Life Cycle
Spores of the fungus overwinter on dead infected canes. In the late spring, fungal spores are spread from plant to plant by the wind and splashing water. Infection takes place when there is sufficient moisture allowing the spores to enter the plant through wounds. Spores may continue to live on dead, infected canes for 2 or more years.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prune and destroy all infected stalks. Blighted canes cannot be cured.
2. Do any pruning work during dry weather to allow wounds to dry out and prevent infection by the fungal spores.
3. Prevent damage and wounds to canes by controlling cane borers. Vigorous, adequately fertilized and watered plants are more resistant to injury and less likely to attract harmful insects. If borers have infected canes, the tips will begin to wilt; prune these tips well below any insect punctures.
4. Plant resistant varieties. Red-fruited or purple varieties of raspberry are less susceptible to cane blight.
5. Use fungicides. Pesticides registered for use include copper and mancozeb.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Brown-purple areas develop around cuts or wounds in infected canes. The discoloration will slowly spread down the cane, encircling the stem. Small, smutty patches of olive-green fungal conidia (spores or conidiospores) develop on the bark. The spread of the disease through the canes blocks water movement through the plant, causing wilting and, eventually, death. Cane blight reduces yields because symptoms appear later in the growing season, when branches may be laden with fruit.
Life Cycle
Spores of the fungus overwinter on dead infected canes. In the late spring, fungal spores are spread from plant to plant by the wind and splashing water. Infection takes place when there is sufficient moisture allowing the spores to enter the plant through wounds. Spores may continue to live on dead, infected canes for 2 or more years.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prune and destroy all infected stalks. Blighted canes cannot be cured.
2. Do any pruning work during dry weather to allow wounds to dry out and prevent infection by the fungal spores.
3. Prevent damage and wounds to canes by controlling cane borers. Vigorous, adequately fertilized and watered plants are more resistant to injury and less likely to attract harmful insects. If borers have infected canes, the tips will begin to wilt; prune these tips well below any insect punctures.
4. Plant resistant varieties. Red-fruited or purple varieties of raspberry are less susceptible to cane blight.
5. Use fungicides. Pesticides registered for use include copper and mancozeb.
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