文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fungus gnats (families Mycetophilidae and Sciaridae) are a common pest of plants grown indoors, especially where humidity and moisture are high. They’re usually first noticed when the harmless adults are seen flying around house plants or gathered at a nearby window. These non-biting adult gnats can become a flying nuisance. But it’s the larval stage, feeding in the soil, that can damage tender plant roots.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Pathogen-caused leaf spot diseases, particularly those of stone fruit trees and such vegetables as tomatoes, peppers and lettuce are of two types, those caused by bacteria and those caused by fungus. Leaf spotting of either kind is generally similar in appearance and effect. Prevention and treatment of both kinds often involve the same practices.
Symptoms
Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (stone fruits, including cherry, plum, almond, apricot and peach) are particularly susceptible to bacterial leaf spot. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomato and pepper crops in vegetable gardens.
Fungal leaf spot attacks lettuce and can also occur on brassicas and other vegetables including such as cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, turnip and rutabaga. For more on vegetables susceptible to bacterial and fungal leaf spot, go here.
Bacterial leaf spot will also infect some annual and perennial flowering plants including geraniums, zinnias, purple cone flowers and black-eyed Susan. Fungal leaf spot will infect aspen and poplar trees. Leaf spot will also cause problems for strawberry plants.
Both types of leaf spot are most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.
This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. It will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.
Control
When selecting fruit trees, choose resistant varieties if possible.
Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit.
Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will reduce weeds and prevent the disease pathogen from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Leaf spot among vegetables is most often introduced through infected seed or transplants. Make sure your seeds and transplants are from leaf spot-free stock.
There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Preventive, organic measures include:
Spraying with a baking soda solution (a tablespoon of baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of liquid soap, not detergent, to one gallon of water), or neem oil (do not use when pollinating insects including bees or other beneficial insects are present). Baking soda may burn some plant leaves. Spray only a few and then check for a reaction before applying applications every two weeks.
Apply sulfur sprays or copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. These organic fungicides will not kill leaf spot, but prevent the spores from germinating.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
Symptoms
Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (stone fruits, including cherry, plum, almond, apricot and peach) are particularly susceptible to bacterial leaf spot. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomato and pepper crops in vegetable gardens.
Fungal leaf spot attacks lettuce and can also occur on brassicas and other vegetables including such as cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, turnip and rutabaga. For more on vegetables susceptible to bacterial and fungal leaf spot, go here.
Bacterial leaf spot will also infect some annual and perennial flowering plants including geraniums, zinnias, purple cone flowers and black-eyed Susan. Fungal leaf spot will infect aspen and poplar trees. Leaf spot will also cause problems for strawberry plants.
Both types of leaf spot are most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.
This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. It will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.
Control
When selecting fruit trees, choose resistant varieties if possible.
Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit.
Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will reduce weeds and prevent the disease pathogen from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Leaf spot among vegetables is most often introduced through infected seed or transplants. Make sure your seeds and transplants are from leaf spot-free stock.
There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Preventive, organic measures include:
Spraying with a baking soda solution (a tablespoon of baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of liquid soap, not detergent, to one gallon of water), or neem oil (do not use when pollinating insects including bees or other beneficial insects are present). Baking soda may burn some plant leaves. Spray only a few and then check for a reaction before applying applications every two weeks.
Apply sulfur sprays or copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. These organic fungicides will not kill leaf spot, but prevent the spores from germinating.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on tomato and potato plants, late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and is common throughout the United States. True to its name, the disease occurs later in the growing season with symptoms often not appearing until after blossom.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on tomato and potato plants, early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani and occurs throughout the United States. Symptoms first appear on the lower, older leaves as small brown spots with concentric rings that form a “bull’s eye” pattern. As the disease matures, it spreads outward on the leaf surface causing it to turn yellow, wither and die. Eventually the stem, fruit and upper portion of the plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Frequently found in backyard gardens and small farms, corn smut is caused by the fungus Ustilago zeae and can appear in the stalks, leaves, tassels or ears. Symptoms are most commonly noticed when the ears produce mushroom-like tumors or galls. These “swellings” begin as small, whitish-gray irregularities which expand and turn black as they fill with spores. Ear galls can grow to 4- to 5-inches in diameter and release thousands of spores as they rupture. These fungal spores are blown by the wind for considerable distances to infect new plants. Galls on leaves remain small and eventually become hard and dry.
Corn smut overwinters on garden debris and in the soil. It is carried by wind, rain and irrigation and does best in hot, dry weather. Spores may remain viable for 5- to 7-years. Wounds from various injuries, including cultivation and abrasion from blowing soil, provide points for the fungus to enter the plant.
Treatment
Choose the best resistant varieties, such as silver king, fantasia, brilliant and seneca sensation, when available.
In backyard gardens, collecting and destroying galls before the dark fungal spores are released is suggested. This will limit the number of available fungal spores and help break the disease-cycle.
Reduce infection points by avoiding injury of roots, stalks and leaves during cultivation.
Prevent damage from insects, such as corn borers, with Monterey® Garden Insect Spray or other organic insecticide.
Fungicides are NOT an effective control option since the disease is so widespread and can persist in the soil for years.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase the severity of the disease — use a balanced organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Bag or burn infected plant parts — do NOT compost.
Corn smut overwinters on garden debris and in the soil. It is carried by wind, rain and irrigation and does best in hot, dry weather. Spores may remain viable for 5- to 7-years. Wounds from various injuries, including cultivation and abrasion from blowing soil, provide points for the fungus to enter the plant.
Treatment
Choose the best resistant varieties, such as silver king, fantasia, brilliant and seneca sensation, when available.
In backyard gardens, collecting and destroying galls before the dark fungal spores are released is suggested. This will limit the number of available fungal spores and help break the disease-cycle.
Reduce infection points by avoiding injury of roots, stalks and leaves during cultivation.
Prevent damage from insects, such as corn borers, with Monterey® Garden Insect Spray or other organic insecticide.
Fungicides are NOT an effective control option since the disease is so widespread and can persist in the soil for years.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase the severity of the disease — use a balanced organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Bag or burn infected plant parts — do NOT compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Affecting most brassica crops (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), club root is a serious plant disease in North American home gardens. It is caused by the soil-borne fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae which infects susceptible plants through root hairs. Diseased roots become swollen, misshapen and deformed (clubbed) often cracking and rotting. As a result, plants have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients properly.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Infection by dollar spot (Sclerotinia homeocarp) appears as tan or straw-colored spots ranging in size from a quarter to that of a silver dollar sunken in the turf. Occasionally, small cottony strings of the fungus can be seen growing from the diseased leaf blades.
Dollar spot occurs throughout the growing period, and is most active during moist, warm days and cool nights. As the disease progresses, individual spots may join to destroy large patches of lawn. It occurs widely on golf greens, but may also be a severe problem on lawns growing under dry soil conditions.
Turf damage is usually more severe if there is a deficiency of nitrogen. Disease fungi are spread from one area to another by water, wind, mowers, other equipment or shoes.
Treatment
The following organic fungicides are recommended:
Bonide® Liquid Copper is a natural formulation used to protect everything from turf to vegetables, to flowers and fruits. Mix 1.5 to 6 oz with 2.5 gallons of water and apply to 1,000 sq. ft. For best results, start 2 weeks before problems normally occur. Repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed.
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Add 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and spray over problem areas, repeat as needed. One pint treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this fungal disease. For example:
Cut grass at the recommended maximum height.
Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface in any one mowing, and if possible, wash the mower between cuttings with a 10% bleach solution.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Improve drainage by top-dressing with organic matter such as organic compost or well-aged animal manure.
Keep lawns well watered, but avoid irrigating in the late afternoon or evening — do NOT over water.
Apply a slow-release organic fertilizer high in nitrogen; applying liquid seaweed and chelated iron is also helpful.
Do NOT over fertilize, since this can result in an increase of other turf grass diseases such as brown patch.
Over seed in the fall with resistant turf cultivars.
Dollar spot occurs throughout the growing period, and is most active during moist, warm days and cool nights. As the disease progresses, individual spots may join to destroy large patches of lawn. It occurs widely on golf greens, but may also be a severe problem on lawns growing under dry soil conditions.
Turf damage is usually more severe if there is a deficiency of nitrogen. Disease fungi are spread from one area to another by water, wind, mowers, other equipment or shoes.
Treatment
The following organic fungicides are recommended:
Bonide® Liquid Copper is a natural formulation used to protect everything from turf to vegetables, to flowers and fruits. Mix 1.5 to 6 oz with 2.5 gallons of water and apply to 1,000 sq. ft. For best results, start 2 weeks before problems normally occur. Repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed.
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Add 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and spray over problem areas, repeat as needed. One pint treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this fungal disease. For example:
Cut grass at the recommended maximum height.
Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface in any one mowing, and if possible, wash the mower between cuttings with a 10% bleach solution.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Improve drainage by top-dressing with organic matter such as organic compost or well-aged animal manure.
Keep lawns well watered, but avoid irrigating in the late afternoon or evening — do NOT over water.
Apply a slow-release organic fertilizer high in nitrogen; applying liquid seaweed and chelated iron is also helpful.
Do NOT over fertilize, since this can result in an increase of other turf grass diseases such as brown patch.
Over seed in the fall with resistant turf cultivars.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Fusarium wilt (foo-zair-ee-um) is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. lycopersici. Fusarium wilt is found worldwide and even resistant tomato varieties may be affected. The fungus is soil borne and makes its way into the plant through the roots. Once inside, it clogs and blocks the xylem, the tissue that moves water and some nutrients through the plant, preventing water from traveling up the stem and out into the branches and leaves.
It may not kill your tomato plants, but they won't be very productive.
Species of Fusarium can infect many plants including: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, legumes and bananas.
Symptoms of Verticillium wilt can be very similar to Fusarium wilt.
What Causes Fusarium Wilt?
The Fusarium wilt pathogen is soil borne and can remain in infected soil for years. It can also be carried and transmitted in multiple ways, like:
infected seed
seedlings from infected soil
the bottom of shoes
shovels and equipment used in infected soil
infected soil blown into the garden
Ideal conditions for Fusarium wilt include warm, dry weather and acidic soil pH (5.0 - 5.6)
There are tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, but if they are weakened by root-knot nematode, they become more susceptible to it.
Plants infected with Fusarium wilt will be stunted and the earlier they are infected, them more severe the stunting.
Keep reading for more photos and descriptions of Fusarium Wilt symptoms and how to control it.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Fusarium wilt can sometimes be confused with other wilts, but here are some symptoms to help you identify it in tomatoes:
Wilting The plants will literally wilt. Often it starts with a single leaf or shoot, near the top of the plant. It will recover at night, when temperatures are cooler, but as it progresses, the entire plant will wilt and not recover. Watering does not make a difference.
Yellowing Lower leaves will turn yellow, often starting on only one side. As with the wilting, the yellowing will gradually move up the plant.
Dry Leaves The wilted leaves will dry out and fall off.
Discolored Stem If you cut open the stem length-wise you will see dark brown streaks.
Management and Control of Fusarium Wilt of Tomatoes
There is no cure for Fusarium and since it persists in the soil for years, it can be very hard to eradicate. Here are some measures to help you control it.
Resistant Varieties - If you've had problems with Fusarium wilt, you would be wise to stick with resistant varieties. Seed packets and many seedlings will be labeled with their resistance to various diseases. You could also consult a seed catalog for choices.
Sterile Potting Soil - If you are starting your own seedlings, begin with a sterile soilless potting mix.
Raise the Soil pH - Apply lime to the soil in your garden, to bring the pH up into the neutral range of about 6.5 - 7.0.
Control Nematodes - Since root-knot nematodes can lessen resistance to Fusarium wilt, don't let nematode populations build up in your soil.
Don't Cultivate - Avoid injuring plants' roots by not using a hoe or cultivator around your tomato plants. Damaged roots are entry points for the pathogen.
Disinfect Tools - Clean all tools that may have come in contact with infected soil and make it a habit to regularly clean and disinfect your garden tools.
Rotate Your Crops - Since the pathogen can persist in the soil for years, you will have to find another area to plant your tomatoes. A 5 to 7 year rotation is recommended, but that does not guarantee the pathogen will be entirely gone.
It may not kill your tomato plants, but they won't be very productive.
Species of Fusarium can infect many plants including: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, legumes and bananas.
Symptoms of Verticillium wilt can be very similar to Fusarium wilt.
What Causes Fusarium Wilt?
The Fusarium wilt pathogen is soil borne and can remain in infected soil for years. It can also be carried and transmitted in multiple ways, like:
infected seed
seedlings from infected soil
the bottom of shoes
shovels and equipment used in infected soil
infected soil blown into the garden
Ideal conditions for Fusarium wilt include warm, dry weather and acidic soil pH (5.0 - 5.6)
There are tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, but if they are weakened by root-knot nematode, they become more susceptible to it.
Plants infected with Fusarium wilt will be stunted and the earlier they are infected, them more severe the stunting.
Keep reading for more photos and descriptions of Fusarium Wilt symptoms and how to control it.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Fusarium wilt can sometimes be confused with other wilts, but here are some symptoms to help you identify it in tomatoes:
Wilting The plants will literally wilt. Often it starts with a single leaf or shoot, near the top of the plant. It will recover at night, when temperatures are cooler, but as it progresses, the entire plant will wilt and not recover. Watering does not make a difference.
Yellowing Lower leaves will turn yellow, often starting on only one side. As with the wilting, the yellowing will gradually move up the plant.
Dry Leaves The wilted leaves will dry out and fall off.
Discolored Stem If you cut open the stem length-wise you will see dark brown streaks.
Management and Control of Fusarium Wilt of Tomatoes
There is no cure for Fusarium and since it persists in the soil for years, it can be very hard to eradicate. Here are some measures to help you control it.
Resistant Varieties - If you've had problems with Fusarium wilt, you would be wise to stick with resistant varieties. Seed packets and many seedlings will be labeled with their resistance to various diseases. You could also consult a seed catalog for choices.
Sterile Potting Soil - If you are starting your own seedlings, begin with a sterile soilless potting mix.
Raise the Soil pH - Apply lime to the soil in your garden, to bring the pH up into the neutral range of about 6.5 - 7.0.
Control Nematodes - Since root-knot nematodes can lessen resistance to Fusarium wilt, don't let nematode populations build up in your soil.
Don't Cultivate - Avoid injuring plants' roots by not using a hoe or cultivator around your tomato plants. Damaged roots are entry points for the pathogen.
Disinfect Tools - Clean all tools that may have come in contact with infected soil and make it a habit to regularly clean and disinfect your garden tools.
Rotate Your Crops - Since the pathogen can persist in the soil for years, you will have to find another area to plant your tomatoes. A 5 to 7 year rotation is recommended, but that does not guarantee the pathogen will be entirely gone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
One day your clematis vine is thriving and ready to flower. The next day it’s withering before your eyes. What happened? Chances are it’s a fairly common fungus that affects clematis plants, called clematis wilt. Clematis wilt can kill the entire top of your clematis vine, but the roots should still survive. Here's how to identify this quick spreading disease and what you can do about it.
What Does Clematis Wilt Look Like?
Clematis wilt is a fungus disease (Ascochyta clematidina) that is also sometimes referred to as clematis leaf and stem spot.
Clematis wilt causes the foliage and stems of your clematis vine to dry and whither, possibly even turning black. You may start to see reddish lesions along the stems, but the onset and spread of clematis wilt can be quick. That means you may not have any warning before an entire clematis vine turns brown. However it’s not unheard of for only a few stems to be affected, so if you see sudden discoloring, take heed.
What Causes Clematis Wilt?
Clematis wilt is spread by spores that probably remained in the area on the debris of last year's vines, or possibly were blown in on the wind, from another nearby clematis plant. Like most fugal diseases, it is more prevalent in damp or humid weather. If your clematis vine is thick and tangled and remains wet well into the day, it will be even more prone to attack.
On older clematis plants, the woody portion near the ground is often the first area affected.
It may also be the area where the spores over-wintered.
Once affected, the plant begins to die back because the fungus cuts off its vascular, or circulatory, system and no water can be carried through the plant. Left untreated, clematis wilt will spread throughout the plant and can kill a heavily infested plant.
What to Do for Affected Plants
The good news is that clematis plants can recover from wilt, because it does not attack their root system. However, the bad news is that you can lose the entire top growth of your vine, during flowering time.
To give your clematis the best chance of surviving clematis wilt, at the first sign of withering or drying, cut the affected stems back to ground level. It sounds severe, but it can save your plant. Dispose of the cuttings somewhere other than the compost.
Since the roots were not affected, new shoots should emerge from the base shortly after cutting. If your plant does not re-sprout within a few weeks, don't give up. Washington State University Extension’s fact sheet said “One resource on this subject states that renewed shoots can appear up to three years after the problem, so do not lose heart if this happens.”
After pruning back the diseased vine, keep the clematis roots watered, even if there is no top growth.
How to Help Prevent Clematis Wilt from Coming Back
To lessen the chance of clematis wilt re-infesting next year, remove all remaining vine and leaf growth in the fall and dispose of it outside of the garden and somewhere other than your compost bin.
The fungus can easily over-winter in the dead foliage.
If you wish to use a preventative fungicide, sulfur is recommended. Spray in the spring, when new growth first appears.
Are All Clematis Susceptible to Clematis Wilt?
To some degree, yes, clematis wilt can attack any type of clematis. The larger flowered varieties are most prone, while some of the smaller flowering varieties, like Clematis alpina and Clematis viticella, show better resistance.
There is also some evidence that the older and better established a plant is, the less likely it is to become infected, but it's no guarantee. The best you can do is keep your plant in good health, prune your type of clematis when you should, and be on the alert.
What Does Clematis Wilt Look Like?
Clematis wilt is a fungus disease (Ascochyta clematidina) that is also sometimes referred to as clematis leaf and stem spot.
Clematis wilt causes the foliage and stems of your clematis vine to dry and whither, possibly even turning black. You may start to see reddish lesions along the stems, but the onset and spread of clematis wilt can be quick. That means you may not have any warning before an entire clematis vine turns brown. However it’s not unheard of for only a few stems to be affected, so if you see sudden discoloring, take heed.
What Causes Clematis Wilt?
Clematis wilt is spread by spores that probably remained in the area on the debris of last year's vines, or possibly were blown in on the wind, from another nearby clematis plant. Like most fugal diseases, it is more prevalent in damp or humid weather. If your clematis vine is thick and tangled and remains wet well into the day, it will be even more prone to attack.
On older clematis plants, the woody portion near the ground is often the first area affected.
It may also be the area where the spores over-wintered.
Once affected, the plant begins to die back because the fungus cuts off its vascular, or circulatory, system and no water can be carried through the plant. Left untreated, clematis wilt will spread throughout the plant and can kill a heavily infested plant.
What to Do for Affected Plants
The good news is that clematis plants can recover from wilt, because it does not attack their root system. However, the bad news is that you can lose the entire top growth of your vine, during flowering time.
To give your clematis the best chance of surviving clematis wilt, at the first sign of withering or drying, cut the affected stems back to ground level. It sounds severe, but it can save your plant. Dispose of the cuttings somewhere other than the compost.
Since the roots were not affected, new shoots should emerge from the base shortly after cutting. If your plant does not re-sprout within a few weeks, don't give up. Washington State University Extension’s fact sheet said “One resource on this subject states that renewed shoots can appear up to three years after the problem, so do not lose heart if this happens.”
After pruning back the diseased vine, keep the clematis roots watered, even if there is no top growth.
How to Help Prevent Clematis Wilt from Coming Back
To lessen the chance of clematis wilt re-infesting next year, remove all remaining vine and leaf growth in the fall and dispose of it outside of the garden and somewhere other than your compost bin.
The fungus can easily over-winter in the dead foliage.
If you wish to use a preventative fungicide, sulfur is recommended. Spray in the spring, when new growth first appears.
Are All Clematis Susceptible to Clematis Wilt?
To some degree, yes, clematis wilt can attack any type of clematis. The larger flowered varieties are most prone, while some of the smaller flowering varieties, like Clematis alpina and Clematis viticella, show better resistance.
There is also some evidence that the older and better established a plant is, the less likely it is to become infected, but it's no guarantee. The best you can do is keep your plant in good health, prune your type of clematis when you should, and be on the alert.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Orchids have a love/hate relationship with fungi.
Many people know that orchids developed their amazing flowers to attract very specific pollinators in the wild, but fewer people are aware of the plant's relationship to various fungus. After pollination, an orchid plant produces a large seed pod. This seed pod is filled with thousands or even tens of thousands of tiny seeds. In general, plants have two strategies with seeds: they either produce very few large seeds that are loaded with food and nutrients to help the seed germinate, or they produce many smaller seeds but invest less in each seed.
Orchids are definitely among the latter group: their seeds tend to be tiny, vulnerable little packets of cells that can't even properly germinate on their own. After an orchid seed is released from its seed pod, it floats on the wind until it lands in a suitable location. Once there, the seed must be colonized by a specific kind of fungus. The colonized orchid seed destroys and digests the fungal, drawing enough energy from it to begin germination. So it's fair to say that orchids would not exist without fungus.
Common Fungi
In cultivation, however, various fungi extract a terrifying revenge: they are among the most common killers of orchids. Orchids are susceptible to some fungi, including Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Anthracnose, Botrytis, and Cercospora, among others. These fungal agents attack various parts of the plant, including roots, stems, leaves, and flowers. Destructive by themselves, fungal attacks also leave the plant vulnerable to opportunistic infection by bacteria.
Why Is Fungi an Issue?
Part of the reason fungi is such a problem in orchids is because they naturally thrive under the same conditions that many people assume orchids like wet, humid, and still. This, however, is something of a misconception. Most orchids we grow are canopy plants, not swamp plants.
They rely on good air circulation and drying periods to stay healthy. So the first and best defense against fungal attacks is cultural: don't let your plants stay wet, never head into a night with wet plants, and provide plenty of strong airflows to keep your plants healthy.
That said, however, most orchid growers will deal with some fungal infection at some point, especially the annoying black leaf spots that disfigure our perfect plants. In most cases, these infections can be successfully treated by spraying early with an effective anti-fungal agent.
Many people know that orchids developed their amazing flowers to attract very specific pollinators in the wild, but fewer people are aware of the plant's relationship to various fungus. After pollination, an orchid plant produces a large seed pod. This seed pod is filled with thousands or even tens of thousands of tiny seeds. In general, plants have two strategies with seeds: they either produce very few large seeds that are loaded with food and nutrients to help the seed germinate, or they produce many smaller seeds but invest less in each seed.
Orchids are definitely among the latter group: their seeds tend to be tiny, vulnerable little packets of cells that can't even properly germinate on their own. After an orchid seed is released from its seed pod, it floats on the wind until it lands in a suitable location. Once there, the seed must be colonized by a specific kind of fungus. The colonized orchid seed destroys and digests the fungal, drawing enough energy from it to begin germination. So it's fair to say that orchids would not exist without fungus.
Common Fungi
In cultivation, however, various fungi extract a terrifying revenge: they are among the most common killers of orchids. Orchids are susceptible to some fungi, including Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Anthracnose, Botrytis, and Cercospora, among others. These fungal agents attack various parts of the plant, including roots, stems, leaves, and flowers. Destructive by themselves, fungal attacks also leave the plant vulnerable to opportunistic infection by bacteria.
Why Is Fungi an Issue?
Part of the reason fungi is such a problem in orchids is because they naturally thrive under the same conditions that many people assume orchids like wet, humid, and still. This, however, is something of a misconception. Most orchids we grow are canopy plants, not swamp plants.
They rely on good air circulation and drying periods to stay healthy. So the first and best defense against fungal attacks is cultural: don't let your plants stay wet, never head into a night with wet plants, and provide plenty of strong airflows to keep your plants healthy.
That said, however, most orchid growers will deal with some fungal infection at some point, especially the annoying black leaf spots that disfigure our perfect plants. In most cases, these infections can be successfully treated by spraying early with an effective anti-fungal agent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
"Dog vomit fungus" is one of those oddities of nature that just makes you say "eww eww." Even if you've never had it in your garden before, it's pretty safe to say that you'll know it when you have it; its nickname couldn't be more precise.
The fungus, which has the scientific name Fuligo septicai, is also sometimes called "scrambled egg fungus." It is most likely to show up during warm, wet periods, sometimes seeming to pop up out of nowhere overnight.
It often grows in wood mulches or along the sides of untreated wood, and sometimes in lawn grass.
Their less-than-attractive appearance may cause concern that they're harming garden plants, but they are actually really interesting (if you have kids, they'll get a kick out of learning more about this disgusting fungus.) Slime molds, such as Fuligo septicai, are saprophytic, which means that they feed on decaying organic materials. They are not diseases, and won't really harm your plants. Occasionally, they'll grow on plants that are growing in mulch, and if a large enough colony forms, they may smother the plant. This is uncommon, however, and you'll usually just find the mold in the mulch itself.
Dog vomit fungus, like other slime molds, are most often found in moist, shady areas, where they thrive. Crevices, mulch, rotting logs, leaf litter and along untreated lumber are all very common places to find it.
Description of Dog Vomit Fungus
Its name is fairly accurate. If you've had a dog, you'll know it when you see it. It is also known as "scrambled egg fungus," because the fruiting bodies (the part you see) is light yellowish in color and looks a bit like scrambled egg curds. It usually appears in small clumps, clinging to mulch, the bases of rotting tree trunks, or other wooden objects.
Life Cycle of Dog Mold Fungus
Slime molds like the dog mold fungus produce spores that are wind-borne. They are very resistant and can survive even during hot, dry weather. The spores can remain viable for several years, waiting for conditions to be right. When warm, moist conditions are present, those dormant spores absorb moisture and crack open to release a swarm sphere, and shortly after, gardeners will see that tell-tale, disgusting looking fungus appear.
Controlling Dog Vomit Fungus
As mentioned above, generally dog vomit fungus poses no threat to plants. It's really just an unattractive nuisance. The best way to control it is to break it up and dry it out. Dog vomit fungus growing in mulch or leaf litter can simply be raked out and disposed of (probably not in your compost, unless you either practice hot composting or want more of it to show up in your garden later.) Dog vomit fungus growing along lumber or tree stumps can be scraped away with a trowel or small shovel and disposed of. If you have it growing in your lawn or in plants, gently rake it out as best you can and get rid of it. A strong jet of water will also dislodge any of the remaining fungi still clinging to the plants (though it may pop up again later.)
If dog vomit fungus continues to be a problem, you may want to consider switching from wood-based mulches to something else, such as gravel. In general, it doesn't pop up often enough to be a real issue.
So, if you see this unattractive fungus in your garden, don't panic. Its primary crime is being unpleasant to look at. Leave it (if it doesn't bother you too much), or scrape it up and get rid of it, and hope for drier conditions in the future so you won't have to see it again anytime soon.
The fungus, which has the scientific name Fuligo septicai, is also sometimes called "scrambled egg fungus." It is most likely to show up during warm, wet periods, sometimes seeming to pop up out of nowhere overnight.
It often grows in wood mulches or along the sides of untreated wood, and sometimes in lawn grass.
Their less-than-attractive appearance may cause concern that they're harming garden plants, but they are actually really interesting (if you have kids, they'll get a kick out of learning more about this disgusting fungus.) Slime molds, such as Fuligo septicai, are saprophytic, which means that they feed on decaying organic materials. They are not diseases, and won't really harm your plants. Occasionally, they'll grow on plants that are growing in mulch, and if a large enough colony forms, they may smother the plant. This is uncommon, however, and you'll usually just find the mold in the mulch itself.
Dog vomit fungus, like other slime molds, are most often found in moist, shady areas, where they thrive. Crevices, mulch, rotting logs, leaf litter and along untreated lumber are all very common places to find it.
Description of Dog Vomit Fungus
Its name is fairly accurate. If you've had a dog, you'll know it when you see it. It is also known as "scrambled egg fungus," because the fruiting bodies (the part you see) is light yellowish in color and looks a bit like scrambled egg curds. It usually appears in small clumps, clinging to mulch, the bases of rotting tree trunks, or other wooden objects.
Life Cycle of Dog Mold Fungus
Slime molds like the dog mold fungus produce spores that are wind-borne. They are very resistant and can survive even during hot, dry weather. The spores can remain viable for several years, waiting for conditions to be right. When warm, moist conditions are present, those dormant spores absorb moisture and crack open to release a swarm sphere, and shortly after, gardeners will see that tell-tale, disgusting looking fungus appear.
Controlling Dog Vomit Fungus
As mentioned above, generally dog vomit fungus poses no threat to plants. It's really just an unattractive nuisance. The best way to control it is to break it up and dry it out. Dog vomit fungus growing in mulch or leaf litter can simply be raked out and disposed of (probably not in your compost, unless you either practice hot composting or want more of it to show up in your garden later.) Dog vomit fungus growing along lumber or tree stumps can be scraped away with a trowel or small shovel and disposed of. If you have it growing in your lawn or in plants, gently rake it out as best you can and get rid of it. A strong jet of water will also dislodge any of the remaining fungi still clinging to the plants (though it may pop up again later.)
If dog vomit fungus continues to be a problem, you may want to consider switching from wood-based mulches to something else, such as gravel. In general, it doesn't pop up often enough to be a real issue.
So, if you see this unattractive fungus in your garden, don't panic. Its primary crime is being unpleasant to look at. Leave it (if it doesn't bother you too much), or scrape it up and get rid of it, and hope for drier conditions in the future so you won't have to see it again anytime soon.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
On cars and other metal objects, a little rust can turn into a lot quickly when affected spots combine into a bigger problem. Gardeners face a similar issue when rust fungus affects plants, and a few speckles run together to form large masses that distort and deform our flower's foliage. Learn how to identify rust, and beat it with treatments and rust-resistant plants.
Rust Fungus Identification
There are many species of the rust fungus disease, affecting host-specific plants and flowers, but gardeners can recognize this problem by observing the speckled masses that form on the surfaces of leaves.
Like the namesake, many of these pustules are rust-colored, but gardeners should also suspect rust if they see dry spots that are brown, orange, purple, red, or yellow.
Rust spots are usually tiny, scattered across plant leaves like so many freckles. Affected plants can have dozens of rust spots on each leaf, and it’s possible for a single leaf to have more than a hundred rust spots.
Flowers Affected by Rust Fungus
Rust disease is legendary in hollyhock flowers, but they aren’t the only potential victims of this fungus. Pay close attention to signs of rust fungus in these flowers during the summer months:
Aster
Carnation
Geranium
Iris
Lily
Pansy
Primrose
Snapdragon
Sunflower
Sweet pea
Damage Caused by Plant Rust Fungus
Flowers with a heavy rust infestation may experience curling or withering of leaves, and the plant can lose its leaves entirely. With this much damage to leaves, gardeners can expect to see stunted growth in their garden plants.
Organic Sprays for Rust Control
A weekly dusting of sulfur can prevent and treat garden rust disease. Neem oil, a botanical fungicide and pesticide, also controls rust. Some organic gardeners swear by baking soda for garden fungus control. The efficacy of baking soda spray may be enhanced by mixing it with light horticultural oil.
Cultural Control of Rust Fungus
Rust fungi, like many plant fungal diseases, flourish in wet conditions. The most important step you can take to reduce rust in your flower garden is to stop overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system to deliver water at ground level. If this isn’t possible, water your flower garden early in the morning, so the sun’s rays will quickly dry your flowers’ foliage.
Practicing good garden hygiene can decrease rust attacks. If you see signs of rust, remove and destroy the affected foliage to prevent the spores from spreading. Do not compost diseased foliage.
Conventional Control of Rust Fungus
You can choose from several commercial fungicides to control rust fungus. Apply the sprays when you see the first signs of disease, and continue applications according to package directions through July. Look for these fungicides and brand names:
Chlorothalonil- Daconil 2787
Mancozeb- Fore, Dithane, or Penncozeb
Myclobutanil- Systhane
Trifloxystrobin- Compass
Rust-Resistant Flowers to Grow
Hybridizers are continuously developing new flower varieties resistant to rust fungus. If you’ve experienced rust for multiple growing seasons, it might be time to remove susceptible plants and replace them with these proven varieties:
Aster- ‘Crimson Beauty,’ ‘Honeysong Pink,’ or ‘Purple Dome’
Hollyhock- ‘Happy Lights’
Rugosa rose
Snapdragon- ‘White Monarch,’ ‘Orange Glow,’ the Rocket series
Even when choosing rust resistant varieties, you’ll get best results by not overcrowding your plants. Proper spacing promotes air circulation, carrying disease spores away from the garden.
Rust Fungus Identification
There are many species of the rust fungus disease, affecting host-specific plants and flowers, but gardeners can recognize this problem by observing the speckled masses that form on the surfaces of leaves.
Like the namesake, many of these pustules are rust-colored, but gardeners should also suspect rust if they see dry spots that are brown, orange, purple, red, or yellow.
Rust spots are usually tiny, scattered across plant leaves like so many freckles. Affected plants can have dozens of rust spots on each leaf, and it’s possible for a single leaf to have more than a hundred rust spots.
Flowers Affected by Rust Fungus
Rust disease is legendary in hollyhock flowers, but they aren’t the only potential victims of this fungus. Pay close attention to signs of rust fungus in these flowers during the summer months:
Aster
Carnation
Geranium
Iris
Lily
Pansy
Primrose
Snapdragon
Sunflower
Sweet pea
Damage Caused by Plant Rust Fungus
Flowers with a heavy rust infestation may experience curling or withering of leaves, and the plant can lose its leaves entirely. With this much damage to leaves, gardeners can expect to see stunted growth in their garden plants.
Organic Sprays for Rust Control
A weekly dusting of sulfur can prevent and treat garden rust disease. Neem oil, a botanical fungicide and pesticide, also controls rust. Some organic gardeners swear by baking soda for garden fungus control. The efficacy of baking soda spray may be enhanced by mixing it with light horticultural oil.
Cultural Control of Rust Fungus
Rust fungi, like many plant fungal diseases, flourish in wet conditions. The most important step you can take to reduce rust in your flower garden is to stop overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system to deliver water at ground level. If this isn’t possible, water your flower garden early in the morning, so the sun’s rays will quickly dry your flowers’ foliage.
Practicing good garden hygiene can decrease rust attacks. If you see signs of rust, remove and destroy the affected foliage to prevent the spores from spreading. Do not compost diseased foliage.
Conventional Control of Rust Fungus
You can choose from several commercial fungicides to control rust fungus. Apply the sprays when you see the first signs of disease, and continue applications according to package directions through July. Look for these fungicides and brand names:
Chlorothalonil- Daconil 2787
Mancozeb- Fore, Dithane, or Penncozeb
Myclobutanil- Systhane
Trifloxystrobin- Compass
Rust-Resistant Flowers to Grow
Hybridizers are continuously developing new flower varieties resistant to rust fungus. If you’ve experienced rust for multiple growing seasons, it might be time to remove susceptible plants and replace them with these proven varieties:
Aster- ‘Crimson Beauty,’ ‘Honeysong Pink,’ or ‘Purple Dome’
Hollyhock- ‘Happy Lights’
Rugosa rose
Snapdragon- ‘White Monarch,’ ‘Orange Glow,’ the Rocket series
Even when choosing rust resistant varieties, you’ll get best results by not overcrowding your plants. Proper spacing promotes air circulation, carrying disease spores away from the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Symptoms of this fungal disease vary with the crop. Beans develop round, black, sunken spots on the pods and stems; on leaf undersides, veins turn black. When the fungus infects cucumbers and melons, the leaves develop yellow spots that dry up and flake away; spots on watermelon leaves are black. Infected fruits develop sunken areas with dark borders. On tomato plants, ripe fruit develops sunken spots with dark centers.
Anthracnose can also develop in other vegetable crops and in strawberries. Wind and wet weather fosters the spread of infection. Anthracnose overwinters in plant residues in the soil. It is an especially troublesome disease in hot, humid regions.
Prevention and Control
Plant resistant varieties such as Calypso cucumber and Charleston Gray watermelon.
Different species of fungi cause anthracnose in different crops. Thus, if you had anthracnose on your tomatoes last year, there’s no harm in planting beans in that bed this year. It can be helpful to wait two years before replanting tomatoes in that bed, though.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Avoid disturbing plant foliage when it’s wet.
Harvest tomato and pepper fruits promptly and wash and dry them immediately to remove any fungal spores on the fruit surface.
Clean up crop debris in fall.
Anthracnose can also develop in other vegetable crops and in strawberries. Wind and wet weather fosters the spread of infection. Anthracnose overwinters in plant residues in the soil. It is an especially troublesome disease in hot, humid regions.
Prevention and Control
Plant resistant varieties such as Calypso cucumber and Charleston Gray watermelon.
Different species of fungi cause anthracnose in different crops. Thus, if you had anthracnose on your tomatoes last year, there’s no harm in planting beans in that bed this year. It can be helpful to wait two years before replanting tomatoes in that bed, though.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Avoid disturbing plant foliage when it’s wet.
Harvest tomato and pepper fruits promptly and wash and dry them immediately to remove any fungal spores on the fruit surface.
Clean up crop debris in fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
A powdery white growth on leaves is the first evidence of this fungal disease, which affects beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, lettuce, peas and many other kinds of plants. The fungus can spread to flowers and fruit. New growth and succulent plant tissues are particularly vulnerable to infection. Infected areas eventually turn yellow and dry up; severe infection can weaken or even kill entire plants.
Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew does not require wet foliage for infection to occur, although it does require high humidity. It can spread quickly in warm, dry climates. The fungus overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention and Control
Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties, such as Super Sugar Snap pea.
Water plants as needed to prevent moisture stress.
Keep plants well spaced and weeded to optimize air flow around the leaves.
Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially late in the growing season.
Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew does not require wet foliage for infection to occur, although it does require high humidity. It can spread quickly in warm, dry climates. The fungus overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention and Control
Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties, such as Super Sugar Snap pea.
Water plants as needed to prevent moisture stress.
Keep plants well spaced and weeded to optimize air flow around the leaves.
Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially late in the growing season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow scab disease attacks different types of willow species in Europe and the United States. It can attack weeping willows but is not one of the more common weeping willow diseases. Willow scab is caused by the fungus Venturia salciperda. Scab on willow trees usually doesn’t cause serious harm unless the black canker fungus (Glomerella miyabeanais) is also present. Read on to learn about how to recognize and how to treat willow scab.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
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