文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Ganodera palm disease, also called ganoderma butt rot, is a white rot fungus that causes palm tree trunk diseases. It can kill palm trees. Ganoderma is caused by the pathogen Ganoderma zonatum, and any palm tree can come down with it. However, little is known about the environmental conditions that encourage the condition. Read on for information about ganoderma in palms and good ways of dealing with ganoderma butt rot.
Ganoderma in Palms
Fungi, like plants, are divided into genera. The fungal genus Ganoderma contains different wood-decaying fungi found around the world on almost any type of wood, including hard wood, soft wood and palms. These fungi can result in ganoderma palm disease or other palm tree trunk diseases.
The first sign you are likely to have when ganoderma palm disease has infected your palm is the conk or basidiocarp that forms on the side of a palm trunk or stump. It appears as a soft, but solid, white mass in a circular shape lying flat against the tree.
As the conk matures, it grows into a shape that resembles a little, half-moon-shaped shelf and it turns partially gold. As it gets old, it darkens even more into brown shades, and even the base of the shelf is no longer white. The conks produce spores that experts believe are the primary means of spreading this ganoderma in palms. It is also possible, however, that pathogens found in the soil are capable of spreading this and other palm tree trunk diseases.
Ganoderma Palm Disease
Ganoderma zonatum produces enzymes that cause the ganoderma palm disease. They rot or degrade woody tissue in the lower five feet of the palm trunk. In addition to the conks, you may see a general wilting of all of the leaves in the palm other than the spear leaf. The tree growth slows and the palm fronds turn off color. Scientists cannot say, as yet, how long it takes before a tree infected with Ganoderma zanatum produces a conk. However, until a conk appears, it is not possible to diagnose a palm as having ganoderma palm disease. That means that when you plant a palm in your yard, there is no way for you to be sure that it is not already infected by the fungus.
No pattern of cultural practices has been associated with the development of this disease. Since the fungi only appears on the lower segment of the trunk, it is not related to improper pruning of the fronds. At this time, the best recommendation is to watch for signs of ganoderma in palms and remove a palm if conks appear on it.
Ganoderma in Palms
Fungi, like plants, are divided into genera. The fungal genus Ganoderma contains different wood-decaying fungi found around the world on almost any type of wood, including hard wood, soft wood and palms. These fungi can result in ganoderma palm disease or other palm tree trunk diseases.
The first sign you are likely to have when ganoderma palm disease has infected your palm is the conk or basidiocarp that forms on the side of a palm trunk or stump. It appears as a soft, but solid, white mass in a circular shape lying flat against the tree.
As the conk matures, it grows into a shape that resembles a little, half-moon-shaped shelf and it turns partially gold. As it gets old, it darkens even more into brown shades, and even the base of the shelf is no longer white. The conks produce spores that experts believe are the primary means of spreading this ganoderma in palms. It is also possible, however, that pathogens found in the soil are capable of spreading this and other palm tree trunk diseases.
Ganoderma Palm Disease
Ganoderma zonatum produces enzymes that cause the ganoderma palm disease. They rot or degrade woody tissue in the lower five feet of the palm trunk. In addition to the conks, you may see a general wilting of all of the leaves in the palm other than the spear leaf. The tree growth slows and the palm fronds turn off color. Scientists cannot say, as yet, how long it takes before a tree infected with Ganoderma zanatum produces a conk. However, until a conk appears, it is not possible to diagnose a palm as having ganoderma palm disease. That means that when you plant a palm in your yard, there is no way for you to be sure that it is not already infected by the fungus.
No pattern of cultural practices has been associated with the development of this disease. Since the fungi only appears on the lower segment of the trunk, it is not related to improper pruning of the fronds. At this time, the best recommendation is to watch for signs of ganoderma in palms and remove a palm if conks appear on it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Pink rot fungus, also known as Gliocladium blight, is a palm tree disease that infects damaged or weakened palms. Like many fungi, it is easier to prevent than it is to treat. Here are some tips on dealing with pink rot on palms.
Pink Rot Fungus in Palms
You won’t see a healthy, robust palm tree planted in just the right place with pink rot fungus. Called an opportunistic fungus, pink rot likes to invade a plant that is already weakened by poor conditions or injuries. Here are a few situations that can lead to pink rot on palms:
Palms that don’t get the right amount of sunlight
Palms planted to deeply or not deeply enough
Soil that is wet, poorly drained or compacted
Too much, too little or the wrong type of fertilizer
Cold weather damage
Palms poorly suited to the area
In addition to these environmental conditions, wounds can leave a palm susceptible to pink rot. Pruning away old leaves too soon creates a wound that serves as an entry point for disease. Remove leaf bases during warm, dry weather and only if they come away easily. Wounds caused by freeze damage and landscape maintenance injuries can also lead to pink rot.
Preventing Pink Rot Disease in Palm Trees
Make sure the soil drains freely before planting palms. To test the soil drainage, dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water. Let the water drain completely and then immediately fill it again. The water level should drop between one and six inches per hour. Will the palm get the right amount of sunlight in the proposed site? The amount of sunlight or shade the tree needs depends on the species, so check the growing information on the plant tag. If the tree isn’t just right for the location you have in mind, consider another type of palm or a different site.
Fertilize palm trees with a special fertilizer designed for palms. Palm fertilizers contain the high concentrations of trace elements that palms need. Follow the package instructions regarding the amount of fertilizer to use and the frequency. Make sure your climate is right for the palm you choose. If temperatures drop too low for the species, the resulting injury can encourage pink rot. A local nursery can help you find the right palm for your area.
Treating Palms with Pink Rot
The first step in treating the disease is to correct the stress condition that brought it on. If you can’t change the condition in the tree’s current location, you’ll have to decide whether you are willing to continue battling pink rot. If not, you may have no choice but to remove the tree and replace it with one better suited to the location. There are a couple of fungicides that can help treat pink rot disease in palm trees. You should consider fungicides a temporary measure to help restore the tree while you correct the cultural conditions. Look for fungicide treatments containing thiophanate methyl and mancozeb.
Follow the label instructions and use these pink rot palm treatments on the area of infection. You can also use them as a preventative measure to treat wounds and after pruning.
Pink Rot Fungus in Palms
You won’t see a healthy, robust palm tree planted in just the right place with pink rot fungus. Called an opportunistic fungus, pink rot likes to invade a plant that is already weakened by poor conditions or injuries. Here are a few situations that can lead to pink rot on palms:
Palms that don’t get the right amount of sunlight
Palms planted to deeply or not deeply enough
Soil that is wet, poorly drained or compacted
Too much, too little or the wrong type of fertilizer
Cold weather damage
Palms poorly suited to the area
In addition to these environmental conditions, wounds can leave a palm susceptible to pink rot. Pruning away old leaves too soon creates a wound that serves as an entry point for disease. Remove leaf bases during warm, dry weather and only if they come away easily. Wounds caused by freeze damage and landscape maintenance injuries can also lead to pink rot.
Preventing Pink Rot Disease in Palm Trees
Make sure the soil drains freely before planting palms. To test the soil drainage, dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water. Let the water drain completely and then immediately fill it again. The water level should drop between one and six inches per hour. Will the palm get the right amount of sunlight in the proposed site? The amount of sunlight or shade the tree needs depends on the species, so check the growing information on the plant tag. If the tree isn’t just right for the location you have in mind, consider another type of palm or a different site.
Fertilize palm trees with a special fertilizer designed for palms. Palm fertilizers contain the high concentrations of trace elements that palms need. Follow the package instructions regarding the amount of fertilizer to use and the frequency. Make sure your climate is right for the palm you choose. If temperatures drop too low for the species, the resulting injury can encourage pink rot. A local nursery can help you find the right palm for your area.
Treating Palms with Pink Rot
The first step in treating the disease is to correct the stress condition that brought it on. If you can’t change the condition in the tree’s current location, you’ll have to decide whether you are willing to continue battling pink rot. If not, you may have no choice but to remove the tree and replace it with one better suited to the location. There are a couple of fungicides that can help treat pink rot disease in palm trees. You should consider fungicides a temporary measure to help restore the tree while you correct the cultural conditions. Look for fungicide treatments containing thiophanate methyl and mancozeb.
Follow the label instructions and use these pink rot palm treatments on the area of infection. You can also use them as a preventative measure to treat wounds and after pruning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Sudden oak death is a deadly disease of oak trees in coastal areas of California and Oregon. Once infected, trees can’t be saved. Find out how to protect oak trees in this article.
What is Sudden Oak Death?
The fungus that causes sudden oak death (Phytophthora ramorum) results in a quick death for tanoaks, California black oaks, and live oaks along the coast of California and Oregon. The fungus also infects the following landscape plants:
Bay laurel
Huckleberry
California buckeye
Rhododendron
Here are the symptoms of sudden oak death:
Cankers on the stems and branches. Leaves in the crown that turn pale green, then yellow, then brown. Cankers that bleed and ooze. In the alternative species, it causes non-fatal leaf spot or twig dieback instead of the bleeding cankers it causes in oaks. Sudden oak death can infect other species of oak, but those species don’t grow in habitats where the fungus is found, so for now, it isn’t a problem. Since P. ramorum has been identified in nursery stock in California, Oregon and Washington, there is a possibility of the disease spreading to other parts of the country.
Sudden Oak Death Information
This disease is always fatal in susceptible oak species and there is no cure. Sudden oak death treatment focuses on prevention and protection. Here are a few things you can do to protect your susceptible oaks:
Allow 15 feet between the trunk of an oak tree and other susceptible species, such as bay laurel and rhododendron. Spray the fungicide Agri-fos to protect oak trees. This is a preventative spray, not a cure. Don’t plant new oak trees in areas with known infection.
What is Sudden Oak Death?
The fungus that causes sudden oak death (Phytophthora ramorum) results in a quick death for tanoaks, California black oaks, and live oaks along the coast of California and Oregon. The fungus also infects the following landscape plants:
Bay laurel
Huckleberry
California buckeye
Rhododendron
Here are the symptoms of sudden oak death:
Cankers on the stems and branches. Leaves in the crown that turn pale green, then yellow, then brown. Cankers that bleed and ooze. In the alternative species, it causes non-fatal leaf spot or twig dieback instead of the bleeding cankers it causes in oaks. Sudden oak death can infect other species of oak, but those species don’t grow in habitats where the fungus is found, so for now, it isn’t a problem. Since P. ramorum has been identified in nursery stock in California, Oregon and Washington, there is a possibility of the disease spreading to other parts of the country.
Sudden Oak Death Information
This disease is always fatal in susceptible oak species and there is no cure. Sudden oak death treatment focuses on prevention and protection. Here are a few things you can do to protect your susceptible oaks:
Allow 15 feet between the trunk of an oak tree and other susceptible species, such as bay laurel and rhododendron. Spray the fungicide Agri-fos to protect oak trees. This is a preventative spray, not a cure. Don’t plant new oak trees in areas with known infection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A kitchen garden feels empty without a decent collection of herbs, including many varieties of mint. These hardy plants are capable of producing a wide range of flavors for drinks and bakery goods and require little care . For keepers of mint, rust fungus is one of a just a few serious diseases to bear in mind. Keep reading for information on mint rust symptoms and how to treat this disease.
What is Mint Rust Fungus?
Mint rust is caused by a fungus, Puccinia menthae, which only infects plants in the mint family, especially spearmint and peppermint. It is encouraged by overhead irrigation, which frequently allows water to stand on plant leaves long enough for the fungal spores to germinate. Closely planted mints, or those that need to be thinned, are at a heightened risk due to increased humidity around the plants.
What Does Mint Rust Look Like?
Rust on mint plants looks similar to other rusts in later stages, with orange to rust-colored spots covering the undersides of lower leaves in early spring. Mint rust symptoms may progress, manifesting as leaves that turn completely brown and drop from affected plants. In late summer and early fall, when these dropped leaves regrow, darker spots often appear instead. The very early stages of mint rust may appear as white bumps on mint leaves.
Controlling Mint Rust
There are many ways to control mint rust, depending on your preferred method of management. Organic gardeners and those looking to preserve beneficial insects may want to destroy infected mint plants or remove infected leaves if the disease is mild. Any rust-infected tissues should be immediately burned or double bagged, and all plant debris kept away from your mint to discourage re-infestation. Thinning your mint stand will allow better air circulation that can dry out rust fungus without the use of fungicide. Changing the way you water will slow or even stop rust fungus; always water mint at the base, never on the leaves, and do it early in the day so water will evaporate quickly. Potted mints shoved into corners should be brought away from walls and fences.
Fungicidal Treatments for Rust on Mint Plants
When cultural modifications fail, you may want to consider chemical control. You’ll have to wait a number of days, anywhere from a week to about three months to harvest leaves after the final treatment, so only apply fungicide when absolutely necessary. Give cultural controls a week or more to work before moving to stronger control methods. Azoxystrobin can be applied to infested leaves and only requires a week between treatment and harvest, though it may work more effectively when rotated with myclobutanil or propiconazole (both require a month before safe harvest). Ornamental mints can be treated with chlorothalonil; the 80-day wait to harvest won’t render the plants useless.
What is Mint Rust Fungus?
Mint rust is caused by a fungus, Puccinia menthae, which only infects plants in the mint family, especially spearmint and peppermint. It is encouraged by overhead irrigation, which frequently allows water to stand on plant leaves long enough for the fungal spores to germinate. Closely planted mints, or those that need to be thinned, are at a heightened risk due to increased humidity around the plants.
What Does Mint Rust Look Like?
Rust on mint plants looks similar to other rusts in later stages, with orange to rust-colored spots covering the undersides of lower leaves in early spring. Mint rust symptoms may progress, manifesting as leaves that turn completely brown and drop from affected plants. In late summer and early fall, when these dropped leaves regrow, darker spots often appear instead. The very early stages of mint rust may appear as white bumps on mint leaves.
Controlling Mint Rust
There are many ways to control mint rust, depending on your preferred method of management. Organic gardeners and those looking to preserve beneficial insects may want to destroy infected mint plants or remove infected leaves if the disease is mild. Any rust-infected tissues should be immediately burned or double bagged, and all plant debris kept away from your mint to discourage re-infestation. Thinning your mint stand will allow better air circulation that can dry out rust fungus without the use of fungicide. Changing the way you water will slow or even stop rust fungus; always water mint at the base, never on the leaves, and do it early in the day so water will evaporate quickly. Potted mints shoved into corners should be brought away from walls and fences.
Fungicidal Treatments for Rust on Mint Plants
When cultural modifications fail, you may want to consider chemical control. You’ll have to wait a number of days, anywhere from a week to about three months to harvest leaves after the final treatment, so only apply fungicide when absolutely necessary. Give cultural controls a week or more to work before moving to stronger control methods. Azoxystrobin can be applied to infested leaves and only requires a week between treatment and harvest, though it may work more effectively when rotated with myclobutanil or propiconazole (both require a month before safe harvest). Ornamental mints can be treated with chlorothalonil; the 80-day wait to harvest won’t render the plants useless.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is one of the best companion crops out there. A natural pest and fungus deterrent with few incompatible neighbors, garlic is a good crop to plant scattered throughout your garden. Keep reading for information about the benefits of garlic and the key to successful garlic companion planting.
Garlic Companion Planting
Companion planting is a great low maintenance, low impact way to improve the health and flavor of your garden. Mainly because of the tendency of some plants to repel certain pests, there are pairings you can make when you plan your garden that just work. Garlic, in particular, is something of a wonder plant that improves the quality and health of almost anything it’s planted next to.
Garlic takes up very little space and can grow in most conditions, as long as it has full sun. As a result, it will thrive near plenty of other plants that may have more specific growing needs and can benefit from its proximity. Garlic is definitely one of the more pungent plants you can grow. Maybe it’s because of this that makes it’s so good at driving away pests. It’s a great deterrent to all kinds of pests including:
Fungus gnats
Codling moths
Spider mites
Cabbage loopers
Japanese beetles
Aphids
Ants
Snails
Onion flies
Garlic can even drive away rabbits and deer. If your garden suffers from any of these, try planting garlic next season. It grows best if planted late in the fall, however, so be careful not to miss its planting season. Garlic also naturally builds up sulfur, which is an effective fungicide for neighboring plants.
Plants That Grow Well With Garlic
Because of its many benefits, the list of plants that grow well with garlic is long. Companion plants for garlic include:
Fruit trees
Dill
Beets
Kale
Spinach
Potatoes
Carrots
Eggplants
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Flower plant companions for garlic include:
Roses
Geraniums
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Companion plants for garlic that improve garlic’s overall growth include:
Rue, which will drive away maggots
Chamomile, which will improve its flavor
Yarrow
Summer savory
Though few, there are some plants that actually suffer when planted near garlic. Be sure to keep asparagus, peas, beans, sage, and parsley far away from it, as their growth can be stunted.
Companion planting is a great way to effectively grow plants without the use of any harsh chemicals. Plant companions for garlic and the like will help ensure a bountiful season. Simply intersperse your garlic throughout the garden to maximize its many benefits.
Garlic Companion Planting
Companion planting is a great low maintenance, low impact way to improve the health and flavor of your garden. Mainly because of the tendency of some plants to repel certain pests, there are pairings you can make when you plan your garden that just work. Garlic, in particular, is something of a wonder plant that improves the quality and health of almost anything it’s planted next to.
Garlic takes up very little space and can grow in most conditions, as long as it has full sun. As a result, it will thrive near plenty of other plants that may have more specific growing needs and can benefit from its proximity. Garlic is definitely one of the more pungent plants you can grow. Maybe it’s because of this that makes it’s so good at driving away pests. It’s a great deterrent to all kinds of pests including:
Fungus gnats
Codling moths
Spider mites
Cabbage loopers
Japanese beetles
Aphids
Ants
Snails
Onion flies
Garlic can even drive away rabbits and deer. If your garden suffers from any of these, try planting garlic next season. It grows best if planted late in the fall, however, so be careful not to miss its planting season. Garlic also naturally builds up sulfur, which is an effective fungicide for neighboring plants.
Plants That Grow Well With Garlic
Because of its many benefits, the list of plants that grow well with garlic is long. Companion plants for garlic include:
Fruit trees
Dill
Beets
Kale
Spinach
Potatoes
Carrots
Eggplants
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Kohlrabi
Flower plant companions for garlic include:
Roses
Geraniums
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Companion plants for garlic that improve garlic’s overall growth include:
Rue, which will drive away maggots
Chamomile, which will improve its flavor
Yarrow
Summer savory
Though few, there are some plants that actually suffer when planted near garlic. Be sure to keep asparagus, peas, beans, sage, and parsley far away from it, as their growth can be stunted.
Companion planting is a great way to effectively grow plants without the use of any harsh chemicals. Plant companions for garlic and the like will help ensure a bountiful season. Simply intersperse your garlic throughout the garden to maximize its many benefits.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Fungus gnats on spider plants are definitely an annoyance, but the pests, also known as soil gnats or dark-winged fungus gnats, typically cause little damage to indoor plants. However, if you’re tired of spider plant fungus gnats terrorizing your prized plant, help is on the way.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti seem to be hardy and fairly resistant to problems, but fungal diseases in cactus can be a major issue. An example of this is anthracnose fungus in cactus. Anthracnose on cactus can decimate an entire plant. Is there any effective cactus anthracnose control? Read on to find out about treating anthracnose in cactus.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fusarium oxyporum is the name of a fungus that can affect a wide range of plants. It’s common in vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes, but it’s also a real problem with cacti. Keep reading to learn more about signs of fusarium wilt in cactus plants and methods for treating fusarium on cactus.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Anthracnose of agaves is bad news to be sure. The good news, however, is that although the fungus is unsightly, anthracnose on agave plants isn’t an automatic death sentence. The key is to improve growing conditions, and to treat the plant as soon as possible. Read on to learn how to prevent and control anthracnose of agaves.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Just like any other plant, your cactus can develop a fungal infection. It is usually a fairly simple issue to get rid of cactus fungus, but if the fungus has grown as a result of a wound to the plant, you might have a tougher time eradicating the problem. Fortunately, cactus fungus is susceptible to natural methods and commercial fungicides, so it can usually be treated before it kills the plant.
Step 1
Remove exposed and infected plant material. If the cactus fungus is growing where a leaf has broken off, then you will need to cut off the infected area. Cut behind the infection so that you can throw the fungus away entirely.
Step 2
Swab the fungus with rubbing alcohol. In many cases, fungus on cacti is accompanied by secondary infections of mealy bugs or gnats. The rubbing alcohol will kill these invaders as well as weakening or killing the fungus. Make sure that you actually rub the fungus off the cactus when you are applying the rubbing alcohol.
Step 3
Treat isolated infections with cooking vinegar. If a single leaf has been infected, then cover the surface of the leaf with vinegar. This will kill the fungus and cause the leaf to drop off naturally so that you do not expose the interior of the cactus to additional infection.
Step 4
Dust the plant with Bordeaux mixture. This is a fungicide that is safe to put on the surface of the cactus as well as on exposed interior areas where you have been forced to cut. It will kill the fungus without hurting the plant。
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a fungus that plagues almost all gardeners. No matter what conditions you live in or how well you tend your garden, chances are you will come across powdery mildew at some point in time. Finding a cure for powdery mildew is something that all gardeners look for eventually. How to Treat Powdery Mildew The first step in how to treat powdery mildew is to remove the conditions in which powdery mildew flourishes. Try to buy resistant plants – Some plants and varieties are more susceptible to powdery mildew than others. Look for varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew fungus. Plant susceptible plants in full sun – Full sun will help keep powdery mildew fungus off plants that are prone to the mildew. Water from below – Use drip lines or hoses to water your plants. Watering from above with sprinklers makes can encourage powdery mildew to grow. Increase air circulation – Try removing some of the vegetation on the plant to increase air flow around the plant. This will help keep powdery mildew at bay. Buy only high quality plants – Unhealthy plants are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Buy only healthy plants.
Powdery Mildew Remedies
Because powder mildew is so widespread, powdery mildew remedies are common garden remedies sold in the garden centers. The following is a list of fungicides that can treat powdery mildew: Triadimefon Triforine Thiophanate-methyl Propiconazole Sulfur Potassium bicarbonate The above list will treat powdery mildew but not all are acceptable for plants you plant to eat. For example, Triforine should only be used on ornamental plants as it is not healthy for consumption. Check to make sure your treatment is a powdery mildew non toxic fungicide if you plan to use it on an edible plant.
Combine Both Environment and Chemicals for a Powdery Mildew Cure
For a complete powdery mildew cure, combine addressing the conditions that cause powdery mildew and use the chemicals that are a cure for powdery mildew. This will take the powdery mildew out of your garden and keep it out for good.
Powdery Mildew Remedies
Because powder mildew is so widespread, powdery mildew remedies are common garden remedies sold in the garden centers. The following is a list of fungicides that can treat powdery mildew: Triadimefon Triforine Thiophanate-methyl Propiconazole Sulfur Potassium bicarbonate The above list will treat powdery mildew but not all are acceptable for plants you plant to eat. For example, Triforine should only be used on ornamental plants as it is not healthy for consumption. Check to make sure your treatment is a powdery mildew non toxic fungicide if you plan to use it on an edible plant.
Combine Both Environment and Chemicals for a Powdery Mildew Cure
For a complete powdery mildew cure, combine addressing the conditions that cause powdery mildew and use the chemicals that are a cure for powdery mildew. This will take the powdery mildew out of your garden and keep it out for good.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Gummy stem blight is a fungal disease of melons, cucumbers and other cucurbits. It is a contagious disease which can spread across a field of fruits. The fungus damages the tissues of the stem at all stages of development. Stem blight treatment must start before you even plant the seeds to be entirely effective. Find out what is gummy stem blight so you can prevent this problem in your vegetable garden. What is Gummy Stem Blight Disease? Gummy stem blight fungus is most active during periods of warm, wet weather. The spores of the fungus can spread in soil or by air. The fungus will overwinter in milder climates in soil and plant debris. The leaves will get necrotic areas of dead tissue that turn brown and have a darker halo. The stems and fruit will show black, soft spots or large brown lesions that are bordered by black. The dark coloring of these lesions also lends the disease the name of black rot fungus.
Black Rot Fungus Characteristics
Stem blight forms when seeds or sites are previously infected with the fungal spores. When conditions are 85 percent humid or wet and warm, with temperatures averaging in the 60’s, (16-21 C.), the fungal spores bloom. You should start treating black rot fungus at the first signs of the disease. Unfortunately, the first signs vary dependent upon plant species. Many get water spotting on the foliage or stems may ooze black or brown gummy beads of fluid. It is difficult to identify these early signs of gummy stem blight, which is why preparation of the seedbed, purchasing resistant seeds and rotating crops are important prequels to stem blight treatment. Ultimately, plants affected by this disease will bear rotten fruits, which are unmistakable and inedible.
Prevention of Gummy Stem Blight
The first stages of a disease free cucurbit crop are preparation and rotation. Never plant cucumbers, melons or other susceptible plants in the same area as the previous season’s crop. The plant debris, and even seeds, left over in the soil will harbor the spores of black rot fungus. Careful preparation of soil prior to planting removes all old organic matter. Use seeds from a reputable seed company that has a history of fungus-free seeds. Since the disease can manifest even on seedlings, inspect any that you have purchased from a nursery prior to purchase and planting. Gummy stem blight signs on seedlings are brown lesions and dry leaf edges. Do not plant suspect specimens.
Treating Black Rot Fungus
In most cases, removal of old plant debris, rotation and resistant species will prevent the appearance of gummy stem blight. In climates with warm, moist bloom conditions, the fungal spores are carried on the wind and you may have to combat the disease even if you took preventative steps. The most common method is the use of fungicides as a stem blight treatment. Dusts or sprays of fungicides useful for preventing and combating powdery or downy mildew have been shown to be effective against gummy stem blight disease.
Black Rot Fungus Characteristics
Stem blight forms when seeds or sites are previously infected with the fungal spores. When conditions are 85 percent humid or wet and warm, with temperatures averaging in the 60’s, (16-21 C.), the fungal spores bloom. You should start treating black rot fungus at the first signs of the disease. Unfortunately, the first signs vary dependent upon plant species. Many get water spotting on the foliage or stems may ooze black or brown gummy beads of fluid. It is difficult to identify these early signs of gummy stem blight, which is why preparation of the seedbed, purchasing resistant seeds and rotating crops are important prequels to stem blight treatment. Ultimately, plants affected by this disease will bear rotten fruits, which are unmistakable and inedible.
Prevention of Gummy Stem Blight
The first stages of a disease free cucurbit crop are preparation and rotation. Never plant cucumbers, melons or other susceptible plants in the same area as the previous season’s crop. The plant debris, and even seeds, left over in the soil will harbor the spores of black rot fungus. Careful preparation of soil prior to planting removes all old organic matter. Use seeds from a reputable seed company that has a history of fungus-free seeds. Since the disease can manifest even on seedlings, inspect any that you have purchased from a nursery prior to purchase and planting. Gummy stem blight signs on seedlings are brown lesions and dry leaf edges. Do not plant suspect specimens.
Treating Black Rot Fungus
In most cases, removal of old plant debris, rotation and resistant species will prevent the appearance of gummy stem blight. In climates with warm, moist bloom conditions, the fungal spores are carried on the wind and you may have to combat the disease even if you took preventative steps. The most common method is the use of fungicides as a stem blight treatment. Dusts or sprays of fungicides useful for preventing and combating powdery or downy mildew have been shown to be effective against gummy stem blight disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees. 
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Growing grains and hay can be an interesting way to make a living or enhance your garden experience, but with great grains come great responsibilities. Ergot fungus is a serious pathogen that can infect your rye, wheat and other grasses and grains – learn how to identify this problem early in its lifecycle. What is Ergot Fungus? Ergot is a fungus that has lived side by side with mankind for hundreds of years. In fact, the first documented case of ergotism occurred in 857 AD in the Rhine Valley in Europe. Ergot fungus history is long and complicated. At one time, ergot fungus disease was a very serious problem among populations who lived off of grain products, especially rye. Today, we’ve tamed ergot commercially, but you may still encounter this fungal pathogen if you raise livestock or have decided to try your hand at a small stand of grain.
Although commonly known as ergot grain fungus, the disease is actually caused by the fungus in the genus Claviceps. It’s a very common problem for livestock owners and farmers alike, especially when springs are cool and wet. Early ergot fungus symptoms in grains and grasses are very hard to detect, but if you look at their flowering heads closely, you may notice an unusual shimmering or sheen caused by a sticky substance coming from infected flowers.
This honeydew contains a huge number of spores ready to spread. Often, insects inadvertently harvest and carry them from plant to plant as they travel through their day, but sometimes violent rain storms can splash the spores between closely spaced plants. Once the spores have taken hold, they replace viable grain kernels with elongated, purple to black sclerotia bodies that will protect new spores until the next season. Where is Ergot Fungus Found? Since ergot fungus has possibly been with us since the invention of agriculture, it’s hard to believe there’s any corner of the world untouched by this pathogen. That’s why it’s so important to know how to identify ergot when you’re growing any sort of grain or grass to maturity. The consumption of grasses or grains infected with ergot has serious consequences for man and beast alike.
In humans, ergot consumption can lead to a myriad of symptoms, from gangrene to hyperthermia, convulsions and mental illness. Because of the sensation of burning and the black gangrenous extremities in early victims, ergotism was once known as St. Anthony’s Fire or just Holy Fire. Historically, death was frequently the end game of this fungal pathogen, since the mycotoxins released by the fungus often destroyed human immunity against other diseases. Animals suffer many of the same symptoms as humans, including the gangrene, hyperthermia and convulsions; but when an animal has managed to partially adapt to ergot-infected feed, it can also interfere with normal reproduction. Grazing animals, particularly horses, may suffer from prolonged gestations, a lack of milk production and the early death of their offspring. The only treatment for ergotism in any population is to stop feeding it immediately and offer supportive therapy for symptoms.
Although commonly known as ergot grain fungus, the disease is actually caused by the fungus in the genus Claviceps. It’s a very common problem for livestock owners and farmers alike, especially when springs are cool and wet. Early ergot fungus symptoms in grains and grasses are very hard to detect, but if you look at their flowering heads closely, you may notice an unusual shimmering or sheen caused by a sticky substance coming from infected flowers.
This honeydew contains a huge number of spores ready to spread. Often, insects inadvertently harvest and carry them from plant to plant as they travel through their day, but sometimes violent rain storms can splash the spores between closely spaced plants. Once the spores have taken hold, they replace viable grain kernels with elongated, purple to black sclerotia bodies that will protect new spores until the next season. Where is Ergot Fungus Found? Since ergot fungus has possibly been with us since the invention of agriculture, it’s hard to believe there’s any corner of the world untouched by this pathogen. That’s why it’s so important to know how to identify ergot when you’re growing any sort of grain or grass to maturity. The consumption of grasses or grains infected with ergot has serious consequences for man and beast alike.
In humans, ergot consumption can lead to a myriad of symptoms, from gangrene to hyperthermia, convulsions and mental illness. Because of the sensation of burning and the black gangrenous extremities in early victims, ergotism was once known as St. Anthony’s Fire or just Holy Fire. Historically, death was frequently the end game of this fungal pathogen, since the mycotoxins released by the fungus often destroyed human immunity against other diseases. Animals suffer many of the same symptoms as humans, including the gangrene, hyperthermia and convulsions; but when an animal has managed to partially adapt to ergot-infected feed, it can also interfere with normal reproduction. Grazing animals, particularly horses, may suffer from prolonged gestations, a lack of milk production and the early death of their offspring. The only treatment for ergotism in any population is to stop feeding it immediately and offer supportive therapy for symptoms.
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